@@FlyinMiataVideo actually my wife is the one that likes them the most, she hates getting the tap on the shoulder to do the "pump it up and hold it thingy"....
Great informative video. I was trying to install some extended length stainless braided lines on my Jeep this weekend after installing a lift kit and I had the issue of the bleeder screw weeping past the threads. At first I thought it was the washers that were leaking at the banjo bolt but it was the bleeder screw allowing fluid to run down on them. I ordered some speed bleeders for the Jeep and will attempt the install again this weekend. I was only concerned because I have bled brakes before on a 90s GM truck and never had that issue. The difference on that truck was l installed new calipers, cylinders (for the rear drums) with stainless braided lines as well as speed bleeders from Napa when I did that brake job. Hope it goes well this weekend, I need those longer lines on there when I go off-road otherwise I am going to yank the factory lines apart when I articulate the axles lol. Not a good thing.
@@FlyinMiataVideo what pads would you guys recommend for enthusiastic mountain carving and maybe a track day or two. Seems like there are too many options.
@rapaent If you're asking if it is possible to use a vacuum bleeder to bleed the brake system - yes it is possible. In our opinion, that is the most effective way to ensure all the air is removed from your brake lines.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks.... I do use a pneumatic air bleeder t bleed my brakes through my OEM brake bleeders. I'm just windering if you have done so using Speed Bleeders? Thanks again, appreciate it. 👍
May I make a suggestion to the webpage for the speed bleeders? Please include the clutch slave cylinder option in the pull down menu. I spent over 20 minutes searching for the clutch SB before giving up. Now that I have found a way to purchase that part, it has been added to my cart.
If done properly, whichever you prefer. They're all good but we typically do one final foot pedal process just to make sure all those microbubbles are out.
I'm the odd man out since I have a Solstice but like Miatas and have driven a few, including one with your turbo kit...very nice! Question: The Solstice has no bleeder for the slave cylinder...not sure why ;-0. Do you think it's worth trying to mix some old with new by pushing the clutch a bunch of times, draining fluid, repeating? Or is that just a waste?
*My dimesworth is to get that old fluid outta there stat. Non-silicone-based BFs are hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the air, therefore eventual oxidation of Fe surfaces is assured. Silicone-based BFs are hydrophobic, allowing water to puddle in the slave cylinder. If your line enters the cyl from the top like NA/NB Miatas, cracking the line nut might permit the bleeding function.* th-cam.com/video/B_OhSvmsezE/w-d-xo.html *Kinda messy and you must use a pressure bleeder to maintain pressure in the clutch line at all times Check the aftermarket for a bleeder-equipped replacement, preferably from a First Tier OE supplier and not made of Chinese (s)crap-iron. Solstice is an Opel GT (GM Kappa platform), making it one more GM orphan like the Opel-based Catera so willing to bet you're already good at parts-chasing. Cheers!*
It actually depends on the generation of the car and if it has ABS or not. On non-ABS NA cars the driver's side rear is the farthest from the brake booster due to how the lines are routed, making the desired order LR, RR, RF, LF. As long as you are thorough, it's not super critical, but makes it easier to push all the air from the system. Feel free to give our support team a call or drop them an email if you need specific help for your car.
What is the diference between normal bleeder valves and speedbleeders ? Never heard abou them, and I'm in the process of taking care of the breaks of a Mazda 3. Thank you
"Speed bleeders" have a check valve in the bleeder stem to keep air from flowing back into the system, making it much easier and faster to do bleeding by yourself.
What about one -man bleeder kits? I've use them until now. Elsewhere some comm, but comments advice against adding tape for fear bits will tear off and bugger up the pipes, but here they come like this from the factory. Your comments, please! Also, what to do it your reservoir _is_ empty??? Thank you.
If the reservoir becomes empty air gets into the system and you need to start bleeding all over again. Not the end of the world but you'll go through a lot of brake fluid flushing air all the way from the reservoir to the calipers. Expensive if you're using good brake fluid and best avoided!
@@dielaughing73 Well thanks for replying, but my memory doesn't go back that far, can't remember what the problem was. I ended up getting a loooong tube and reverse bled from brake back up to the reservoir. Tester (here in France) said they were PERFECT, adding that that is astounding considering they're drum brakes. Thanks.
I know it’s a year later, but what about if I’m changing my brake lines? If I press the brakes, it will push air out. But will it let air back in? Will the check valve close if air tries to go back into the line?
The speed bleeders act as a check valve so, once you have your new brake lines attached, the bleeders will work for a proper bleed. If you use the bleeders a lot, you might have to apply some new thread paste so that air can't sneak past and mess things up. A lot to me would be if you bleed your brakes after each race, you might need to reapply every season. For a street car that you bleed every year, I'd say you'd be fine for 5 yrs or so.
From our experience, these are just as functional as regular bleeders. Depending on environment, use, age, etc you might need to clean or reapply thread-paste eventually, but we have these on most of our cars and love them.
The short answer is that there is no change in safety. Both are very safe. The method of sealing them is exactly the same as on any other bleed screw. There is a conical tip that is pressed by the threads into the conical seat, and this blocks the flow of fluid. Both speed and regular bleeders are identical in this regard. Both types also have a side port that allow the fluid flowing past a loosened seat to flow down the center bore of the screw. The difference between the two is in that center bore. The speed bleeder has a check valve. The standard bleeder screw does not. Speed bleeders cost little, and are very popular people who actually follow the manufacturers recommendations, and change their brake fluid every few years. With speed bleeders you can easily and rapidly get a very complete purge of the fluid.
Similarly to bleeding the brakes. It's easier with two people if you don't have a speed bleeder with the check valve. Open the valve on the slave cylinder. Keep pumping the clutch pedal and bleeding fluid out until there are no more bubbles or air in the lines. Sometimes this will take more than one session to clear out all the air depending on how much air is in the system. Make sure to close the bleed valve when finished to make sure you don't leak fluids and no air gets back into the lines. If you have any issues or need any tips, give our customer support team a call, they'll be more than happy to help.
@@FlyinMiataVideo thanks for the response but I have tried this in more than one car and the pedal does not return after being pressed with the bleed nipple open. I assume it's because there is no return spring. Am I supposed to lift the pedal manually?
The clutch slave cylinder speed bleeders are the same as the NA/NB rear. NA/NB/NC clutch slave cylinders use the M7x1.0 thread bleeders. We apologize if that wasn't clear. We will adjust the listing. Thanks
If you have multiple people, they might not necessarily be faster, but they prevent leaks while bleeding and keep air from going back into the lines. Feel free to give us a call or drop us an email if you have any other specific questions we can help with.
I’m pretty sure that when you click on the speed bleeders on their website, there is a drop down menu of what brakes you have (NA, NB, NC, ND, or Wilwood) and they come in pairs so if you have a wilwood front kit but nb rears for example, you buy a pair of wilwood front speed bleeders and nb rear speed bleeders.
@@xxxmaximizerxxx2292 Really you just need to know the thread size and length of your bleeders. Russell or speedbleeder.com makes a bunch of different generic workable sizes. I've used these things on my XJS for 30 years. They're nice kit.
Yes, we do offer these for the Wilwood calipers we sell. Feel free to give us a call or drop us an email if you need any help picking the correct ones.
@@georgeverai9170 We don't think they are available at this time, but please feel free to drop our support team an email at support@flyinmiata.com. They might be able to provide more information.
These are great. But a better design would have you keep the threads with the paste on them seated and never unscrewed. A second petcock at the end to open/close 1/4 turn to allow the fluid to pass through the hole. Duh! Make better products!
Interesting but that doesn't seem to be a design that would fit this area of the brake system. There are plenty of shutoff valves (petcock) that are rated for hydraulic pressure but I haven't found one scaled down enough to fit. Thanks for watching!
I will install my new speed bleeders and stainless steel brake lines this week. Thanks for the info FM!
B
U
I got them from you, and everyone should. They make the job way faster and easier, I can't imagine a reason why someone would not get these.
Thank you!
@@FlyinMiataVideo actually my wife is the one that likes them the most, she hates getting the tap on the shoulder to do the "pump it up and hold it thingy"....
Great informative video. I was trying to install some extended length stainless braided lines on my Jeep this weekend after installing a lift kit and I had the issue of the bleeder screw weeping past the threads. At first I thought it was the washers that were leaking at the banjo bolt but it was the bleeder screw allowing fluid to run down on them. I ordered some speed bleeders for the Jeep and will attempt the install again this weekend. I was only concerned because I have bled brakes before on a 90s GM truck and never had that issue. The difference on that truck was l installed new calipers, cylinders (for the rear drums) with stainless braided lines as well as speed bleeders from Napa when I did that brake job. Hope it goes well this weekend, I need those longer lines on there when I go off-road otherwise I am going to yank the factory lines apart when I articulate the axles lol. Not a good thing.
Love these! My kid is lazy, so yeah this would be awesome!
Side note....what is your brake setup?
Those were some prototype rotors we were testing. Unfortunately, they are not available for sale.
@@FlyinMiataVideo what pads would you guys recommend for enthusiastic mountain carving and maybe a track day or two. Seems like there are too many options.
Thank You for your sharing!! Question; Is it possible to air bleed the system with speed bleeders? Great job! Thanks again 👍
Yep, that's their main purpose.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks... to be clear, I'm talking about a pneumatic air bleeder.
@rapaent If you're asking if it is possible to use a vacuum bleeder to bleed the brake system - yes it is possible. In our opinion, that is the most effective way to ensure all the air is removed from your brake lines.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks.... I do use a pneumatic air bleeder t bleed my brakes through my OEM brake bleeders. I'm just windering if you have done so using Speed Bleeders? Thanks again, appreciate it. 👍
@@rapaent I don't know why you'd need them if you're running a pneumatic air bleeder. I doubt they'd be a good fit for this situation.
May I make a suggestion to the webpage for the speed bleeders? Please include the clutch slave cylinder option in the pull down menu. I spent over 20 minutes searching for the clutch SB before giving up. Now that I have found a way to purchase that part, it has been added to my cart.
That's an excellent suggestion, thank you.
Would you recommend manual(foot pedal), vacuum, or pressurized bleeding?
If done properly, whichever you prefer. They're all good but we typically do one final foot pedal process just to make sure all those microbubbles are out.
I'm the odd man out since I have a Solstice but like Miatas and have driven a few, including one with your turbo kit...very nice!
Question: The Solstice has no bleeder for the slave cylinder...not sure why ;-0. Do you think it's worth trying to mix some old with new by pushing the clutch a bunch of times, draining fluid, repeating? Or is that just a waste?
*My dimesworth is to get that old fluid outta there stat. Non-silicone-based BFs are hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the air, therefore eventual oxidation of Fe surfaces is assured. Silicone-based BFs are hydrophobic, allowing water to puddle in the slave cylinder. If your line enters the cyl from the top like NA/NB Miatas, cracking the line nut might permit the bleeding function.* th-cam.com/video/B_OhSvmsezE/w-d-xo.html *Kinda messy and you must use a pressure bleeder to maintain pressure in the clutch line at all times Check the aftermarket for a bleeder-equipped replacement, preferably from a First Tier OE supplier and not made of Chinese (s)crap-iron. Solstice is an Opel GT (GM Kappa platform), making it one more GM orphan like the Opel-based Catera so willing to bet you're already good at parts-chasing. Cheers!*
You said to start with the driver’s rear caliper? Isn’t the passenger rear actually furthest away?
It actually depends on the generation of the car and if it has ABS or not. On non-ABS NA cars the driver's side rear is the farthest from the brake booster due to how the lines are routed, making the desired order LR, RR, RF, LF. As long as you are thorough, it's not super critical, but makes it easier to push all the air from the system. Feel free to give our support team a call or drop them an email if you need specific help for your car.
Great Vid!
What is the diference between normal bleeder valves and speedbleeders ?
Never heard abou them, and I'm in the process of taking care of the breaks of a Mazda 3.
Thank you
"Speed bleeders" have a check valve in the bleeder stem to keep air from flowing back into the system, making it much easier and faster to do bleeding by yourself.
👍👍
Thanks for watching!
What about one -man bleeder kits? I've use them until now.
Elsewhere some comm, but comments advice against adding tape for fear bits will tear off and bugger up the pipes, but here they come like this from the factory. Your comments, please!
Also, what to do it your reservoir _is_ empty???
Thank you.
If the reservoir becomes empty air gets into the system and you need to start bleeding all over again. Not the end of the world but you'll go through a lot of brake fluid flushing air all the way from the reservoir to the calipers.
Expensive if you're using good brake fluid and best avoided!
@@dielaughing73 Well thanks for replying, but my memory doesn't go back that far, can't remember what the problem was. I ended up getting a loooong tube and reverse bled from brake back up to the reservoir. Tester (here in France) said they were PERFECT, adding that that is astounding considering they're drum brakes.
Thanks.
i have a tic performance bleeder that is leaking at the tip.... any thoughts on how to repair it?
I know it’s a year later, but what about if I’m changing my brake lines? If I press the brakes, it will push air out. But will it let air back in? Will the check valve close if air tries to go back into the line?
The speed bleeders act as a check valve so, once you have your new brake lines attached, the bleeders will work for a proper bleed. If you use the bleeders a lot, you might have to apply some new thread paste so that air can't sneak past and mess things up. A lot to me would be if you bleed your brakes after each race, you might need to reapply every season. For a street car that you bleed every year, I'd say you'd be fine for 5 yrs or so.
Could a mechanic who doesn't know it's a speed bleeder work on it like normal?
Yes!
If he is trying to do a 'gravity' bleed of the system that will not work. If he is using an extraction pump, he will never know they are there.
Are they less safe than regular bleeders?
From our experience, these are just as functional as regular bleeders. Depending on environment, use, age, etc you might need to clean or reapply thread-paste eventually, but we have these on most of our cars and love them.
The short answer is that there is no change in safety. Both are very safe. The method of sealing them is exactly the same as on any other bleed screw. There is a conical tip that is pressed by the threads into the conical seat, and this blocks the flow of fluid. Both speed and regular bleeders are identical in this regard. Both types also have a side port that allow the fluid flowing past a loosened seat to flow down the center bore of the screw. The difference between the two is in that center bore. The speed bleeder has a check valve. The standard bleeder screw does not. Speed bleeders cost little, and are very popular people who actually follow the manufacturers recommendations, and change their brake fluid every few years. With speed bleeders you can easily and rapidly get a very complete purge of the fluid.
How do you bleed the clutch though? My pedal just goes flat to the floor and stays there. The only thing that works for me is using my MityVac
Similarly to bleeding the brakes. It's easier with two people if you don't have a speed bleeder with the check valve. Open the valve on the slave cylinder. Keep pumping the clutch pedal and bleeding fluid out until there are no more bubbles or air in the lines. Sometimes this will take more than one session to clear out all the air depending on how much air is in the system. Make sure to close the bleed valve when finished to make sure you don't leak fluids and no air gets back into the lines. If you have any issues or need any tips, give our customer support team a call, they'll be more than happy to help.
@@FlyinMiataVideo thanks for the response but I have tried this in more than one car and the pedal does not return after being pressed with the bleed nipple open. I assume it's because there is no return spring.
Am I supposed to lift the pedal manually?
“Spleeder” hahaha
Wait are the clutch ones the wilwood ones? I can't find the clutch ones on the site.
The clutch slave cylinder speed bleeders are the same as the NA/NB rear. NA/NB/NC clutch slave cylinders use the M7x1.0 thread bleeders. We apologize if that wasn't clear. We will adjust the listing. Thanks
@@FlyinMiataVideo Ah I didn't see them on the type selection but I see it now all the way on the bottom of the product description. Thanks!
Can I use a Speed Bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder? If so, which one?
Yes. Mike covers this in the video. If aren't sure what you need, please call us at 970-464-5600 or drop us an email at support@flyinmiata.com.
How much faster is this than doing a gravity bleed with the stock bleeders (have an NC if there is a model specific answer)? Thanks!
If you have multiple people, they might not necessarily be faster, but they prevent leaks while bleeding and keep air from going back into the lines. Feel free to give us a call or drop us an email if you have any other specific questions we can help with.
Are these compatible with the Wilwood BBK?
I’m pretty sure that when you click on the speed bleeders on their website, there is a drop down menu of what brakes you have (NA, NB, NC, ND, or Wilwood) and they come in pairs so if you have a wilwood front kit but nb rears for example, you buy a pair of wilwood front speed bleeders and nb rear speed bleeders.
@@xxxmaximizerxxx2292 Really you just need to know the thread size and length of your bleeders. Russell or speedbleeder.com makes a bunch of different generic workable sizes. I've used these things on my XJS for 30 years. They're nice kit.
Yes, we do offer these for the Wilwood calipers we sell. Feel free to give us a call or drop us an email if you need any help picking the correct ones.
What brake discs/rotors are they
Those were some prototype rotors Mike was testing for us. Unfortunately they are not available for sale.
@@FlyinMiataVideo thank you very much for the response... Will they ever be up for sale?
@@georgeverai9170 We don't think they are available at this time, but please feel free to drop our support team an email at support@flyinmiata.com. They might be able to provide more information.
Into the kitchen 🤣 love it
I installed these today and they leaked fluid past the threads on all 4 of them, what a bloody mess it caused! 😂
So sorry you had some issues! Give our support team a call, they should be able to help you trouble shoot the issue!
other retailers sell singles...would be great for the slave 🤷
Thanks for the suggestion - our NA/NB rear stock caliper option will fit your NA/NB slave, but is sold as a pair like you mentioned.
These are great. But a better design would have you keep the threads with the paste on them seated and never unscrewed. A second petcock at the end to open/close 1/4 turn to allow the fluid to pass through the hole. Duh! Make better products!
Interesting but that doesn't seem to be a design that would fit this area of the brake system. There are plenty of shutoff valves (petcock) that are rated for hydraulic pressure but I haven't found one scaled down enough to fit. Thanks for watching!