How to: Set or adjust Arrma BLX 4x4 3s and 4s slipper clutch
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มิ.ย. 2020
- Quick video on how to set the slipper clutch on any of the Arrma 3S or 4S BLX cars: Kraton 4s/ Outcast 4s / Typhon 3s / Big Rock Crew Cab 3s / Granite 3s
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I'm blown away more that you've answered everyone's questions in detail. You sir are a quality TH-camr! Most of these rc channels never answer questions and comments. Kudos
I try to answer all comments, if someone has taken the time to watch and comment then only fair i respond, having said that the bigger channels get so many comments it would be almost impossible to answer then all. Thank you for the kind comments 👍👍
Thank you SO MUCH. I read forums, I scratched my head, I was too tight, then I was too loose... All I wanted to do was replace my plastic spur with a steel spur, I don't know a slipper clutch from a slip-and-slide.
Following your directions was easy. I'm a visual learner, and you made it simple.
This is my first hobby grade, and there is a learning curve when it comes to wrenching on my Granite.
Thanks to you and LocTite, I'll be back on the trail tomorrow.
PS: anyone looking for good 1/10 scale tires should check out Amain Hobbies Upgrade RC brand Dirt Claw 2.8 off-road tires.
I'm never buying crappy dboots tires again. Dirt Claw tires are supple, deep tread, glued perfectly, grip like hell, and they don't rip off the wheel catastrophically like the dboots Fortress MT tires.
Your welcome and glad it helped 👍
ive been messing about for 3 weeks trying to sort the slipper out on my granite ,this was very helpful ,thanks a million
Thanks - hope this helps sort your problems out
Thank you for this video. This helped me immensely. I couldn’t find the right way to set the slipper clutch was either to tight or to loose and now it’s perfect. Can’t thank you enough.
You're welcome!, glad it helped 👍👍
I've been out of the RC hobby for the better part of 10 years but got bit by the bug after watching you, kev, claire and the rest of the crew's videos. It's been well over a year since I've found all of your channels and in researching what rig to get I've been torn between a trx4 or one of the 3s/4s arrma rigs (Arrma wasn't even a company yet when I sold all of my old stuff years ago). Really impressed with the outcast 4s and the body on it is simply bad ass. Thanks for the videos and the how tos. Cheers from Michigan!
I was similar, was out the hobby for around 10 years and got back in 2 years ago, was still using my old radio with crystals 😂😂 doesnt take long to learn all the new bits though and what the cars can do these days is just truly amazing. Outcast 4s is a great car, but was discontinued 18 months ago, we are all still waiting for the new 4s cars from Arrma that we have now been told will be summer 2022, we will see as we were also told they would be out early 2021.
Thanks for watching and glad you enjoy our videos 👍👍
Wow thanks so much I’ve overheated my clutches cause they were too loose a burning smell now when I did your method the truck has a lot of power and no more overheating!! Thanks 😊 a bunch
That's ok - im please i was able to help 👍👍👍
Thanks for putting together this video. I have a Granite 3s and Typhon 3s and they are great cars. I'm just getting into the hobby really but I have learned so much from RC veterans like yourself. The first thing I do after a run is clean the car. I set it on my bench so I can inspect it and tighten stuff up before I go out for my next run. I sure wish I would have checked my slipper clutch before I went out today. Thanks again for the video. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Your welcome and very glad it was able to help. Very wise checking your car over after each run, that in its self can save you a load of issues.
Thank you! Arrma has out of date wrong videos, and nothing in the manual, about how to do this! Even though the tool you get matches the tool in the incorrect video. This helped a lot.
Your more than welcome, im glad it helped 👍👍
Arrma sucks with instructions but traxxas at least has “how to “ videos
Thanks for the video. Took my granite 3s blx with 3s battery out for the first time just sidewalk and street doing wheelies and drag, speed at 50% since i'm new. Popped the RR CVD after 20 mins maybe. Ordered some new stock cvd's and some gpm steel ones. Just did this slipper trick and letting thread lock dry. Set the punch setting to 1. Hoping these will help once new cvd's are installed.
Your welcome and glad it helped, really think the quality of the stock axels has taken a plunge since Arrma released the upgraded CVD''s the CVD's are good though
This will help me with my Vorteks.
Thank you very much
Glad I could help
I really needed that video, yesterday I tried to tighten it up as much as possible and I managed to snap the thing where the spring sits so I watched a couple of videos of other ytbers and no one said how much force I need to tighten it properly ("tighten it so it's snug"etc.) I'm going to buy a new part and try your technique it's really easy and I'm hoping for it to work
Yeah you dont need to tighten it right up, plus as you have found out the screw snaps quite easy
@@HardcoreRC that wasn't the screw it was the aluminium part
love your videos keep up the great content
Thanks, will do! 👍👍
Thanks! Much more enjoyable to run now.
You are more than welcome - im glad it has helped 👍
Nice video this will help us noobs with how to take off the clutch assembly many thanks.
Thanks and your welcome, if it helps 1 person then my job has been done 👍
As it happens I’ve got to do spur gear and motor mount upgrade so mite as well do this whilst I’m at it thanks for the vid helpful as always 🙏
Your welcome, good upgrades you are doing
Thank you so much! I had set my slipper too tight after a spur gear replacement on my Senton. That cock up cost me a new spur lol
Sorry to hear you lost a spur, hopefully this method with save you 👍👍
Thanks for the Video buddy , you have earned a sub been trying to find this answer for about 2 days but it was like dropping in a wormhole , hopefully this will work .
Your welcome and hopefully it will work for you. Thank you for the sub 👍
@@HardcoreRC definitely works buddy now the car can't keep it's nose down lol 🤣 in the words of Jeremy Clarkson more power !!!!
@@ChriswithaCrc Glad it worked for you 👍👍
Clearly explained...nice video...about to go set mine right now! Thanks and keep grinding!
Thanks, glad it helped - have fun and keep bashing 👍
Thank you. Excellent tip.
You're welcome!
Great video my friend.. I'm sure this will help many.. 👍
thanks - although my Outcast is now down, took it out for another run today and the loop connector when running 4s fell onto the drive shaft and wore it out so driveshaft snapped 😢 need to zip tie it to the centre brace to keep it out the way
@@HardcoreRC ugh.. unfortunate for sure..😔.. hopefully it will be back up and running soon...👍✌
Driveshaft should be here tomorrow 👍
Thank you this helped a lot I’ve been fighting that darn slipper since I bought the thing
if you still have issues then orange thread lock works a treat - its stronger than blue, but not as strong as red
HardcoreRC all I have is red so I just set it to what felt good by holding onto the gear and twisting the drive shaft if I do need to take it apart I’ll just use some heat
@@averykienbaum2904 Red will work, i like using Orange now as no heat required but pretty much as strong as red, i only use it on parts i REALY dont wont comming undone 😂
HardcoreRC also have you been having much other issues with the car just curious. Any other tips
@@averykienbaum2904 No other issues really, just bent a tie rod on the rear which i need to fix. Its a tough little thin really, but then all the 3s/4s are. The only things im likely to upgrade is the shocks (Still have tow to switch to the Hot racing ones) arms to RPM when the stock ones break, and the drive shafts to the optional CVD ones
Perfect! I need to try this!
New to the hobby, and can't seem to get more than one battery in with my Kraton 4s without issues.
Slipper clutch screw loosens.
Going to try this!
Thanks!!
This should work for you - just make sure to allow the threadlock to set for 24 hours
@@HardcoreRC Yes, did it last night. Going to try it out shortly.
@@edygome Hope it works out for you - i know how annoying that slipper can be
This time the srew didn't loosen; it just snapped. Drove it around the parking lot. haha i just cant win.
@@edygome oh know your joking, you didnt over tighten it at all ? they can snap easy if you over tighten at any time
Awesome did not know that ..Cheers
Your welcome 👍👍
Fantastic video mate mine slipper clutch on my arrma vorteks 3s keeps slipping so I'm going to do what you did and see if that works OK 👍
Your welcome and it should work - those slippers are very annoying
Top man👍
Thanks - hope this helps you
NICE.....Thanks
Most welcome
Great video #HardcoreRC!!! I am having some issues with either the Slipper Clutch or a bearing thats shot out on my 3s Typhon!! I have a 20t pinion in her and my top end speed is only around 35mph which means something is dragging. Do you think the Slipper needs to be loosen up a bit by chance or do you think it's a bearing?
Thanks - loosening the slipper would make it go slower as the slipper would slip 😂😂 are you running it on 3s ? and fully charged ? a bearing could cause it, but would then expect to see a lot of heat in that area and run time would be hit heavily as well
Thanks
Your welcome - i hope it helped
Just put a small spring in the shaft end,the shaft compresses spring onto screw no more backing out,and no thread lock to deal with if wanting to remove screw.
not sure that would work as not much of the screw protrudes out the back end, plus getting a small spring and nut to cap off would be difficult
@@HardcoreRC no,front end,head of screw ,long enough for shaft to squash it in.or even piece of nitro fuel tubing cut to fit inside works
@@chris-ip4pk Interesting, although how does this stop it coming undo on the back side which is where it always comes undone ?
@@HardcoreRC worked for me
Hi there. Just received a BRCC and was going to do this as part of the general tweaking and checking before I let the kids lose on it. Im a total noob and trying to learn fast. Can you explain what are the typical "symptoms" youd get that would warn you that the slipper was too tight or too lose. The electronic whining I hear before movement seems fairly universal as does the car "clicking. " The vehicle moves like a scalded cat so Im not experiencing any performance issues (yet). Even so, I feel like I should check this, as youve kindly taken the trouble to make the video. Thanks very much for a great channel. I`ll be doing the wing upgrade next !!
Hopefully you shouldn't have any issues unless you need to change the slipper plates, or you have a QC issue where the plates were et to lose/tight etc.. This was more of an issue on the 4s cars.
Tell tail signs of a loose slipper would be that the car didnt wheelie, seemed low on power off the line and the gearbox / drive shaft would get very hot.
Tell tail signed of a tight slipper would be blowing the rear drive shafts all the time.
Only other tip i would give is put some gorilla tape over the larger holes on bottom of the chassis top left, where you access the steering servo horn, stops little rocks getting in and jamming the steering
Have fun with your BRCC, its a great little RC
@@HardcoreRC Thanks for such a fast reply !
I have a question I have the arrma big rock this is my first hobby grade rc I bought it about 3 weeks ago everything is stock using 3s battery and when I go 100% the rear left axle will pop off so I bought a new set put them on and loosened the slipper clutch because that’s what people told me that was causing it because it was to tight and I was driving it in 2inch grass and it poped of agin on the left side what is causing this ?????
Its a good question, i have been hearing a lot of people having this same issue on new 3s cars, i have a feeling there could be a quality control issue, would suggest talking to your hobby shop you bought it from and seeing if they will warranty to part
Hi I'm new to Rc. Trying this trick on my sons granite as he blew the read axle out of it. Trying to back it off 1.25 turn. Seens like its stuck and won't turn either way. He only got 2 battery runs out of the truck before this. Any pointers to get it loose?
Sorry this message was held for review for some reason. which version Granite do you have ?
Hey matey great video. Do you ever have any problems with driveshafts breaking? I manged 1 and a half runs yesterday in my big rock until the front outer driveshaft broke and rear driveshaft unscrewed itself
Hi and thanks. Let me take a guess and say its a V3 and bought sometime after June/July 2021. See this more and more now, seems that ever since Arrma brought out the CVD metal upgrades and also the metal diff gears that the stock ones have issues and keep breaking, coincidence ???? out of the v2 Granite, Typhon, Senton and first batch v3 bigrock (not wanting to tempt fate) but we have never broken a drive shaft, and you see what we do with the cars, even had the Bigrock to 105mph on 6s on stock drive shafts.
Sadly the only thing i can suggest is try to get a warranty claim on it or upgrade to the CVD's
@@HardcoreRC Yeah I only bought it on Tuesday evening. Delivered on Thursday and yesterday was first run. Lovely fast car but the drive shaft issues are annoying. Thanks for the reply and happy bashing
Thanks!and the last question. when out of the box,is sliper clutch too tight?
Slipper is set as standard i think to 1 1/2 turns - this should be fine for general use, its really if you want to tune it for better driving
@@HardcoreRC so firstly I can loose slipper,and use this video method to adjust slipper?
@@user-pz7fp2od1h Yes you can
I have Question about putting the loctite on the back of Engine nut and leaving it there overnight if i needed to take Engine out how would i do when the loctite is in the Back of Engine hole and it dries getting the hex screwdriver in the hole cause Iam sure it dries up pretty hard in there and how does it stop the slipper Clutch from coming loose again cause The Engine and slipper Clutch r 2 different things and the slipper Clutch is on 1 side and the Engine is on the other side Iam a little bit coufusd there but Everything Else u Explained to me makes sense.
Motor is separate from the slipper clutch assembly, the slipper clutch comes out as complete unit, the thread lock just stops the screw backing out, you can still undo it by hand if needed.
@@HardcoreRC The screw that goes behind the Engine u turned upside down then put 2 Drops of the blue loctite on the screw
With THE thread lock on THE srew with THE blue loctite
@hardcoreRC do you think the slipper clutch could be an issue if the Arrma Granite 3s has a slow start, no power off the line, and the motor overheats pretty quickly resulting in no throttle and only steering?
It could be, as this would mean the motor is spinning, does the actual plastic round the spur gear get hot as well ? other possible cause is the front bearing in the motor - that's a known issue with the 3s motors and you should be able to warranty it
@@HardcoreRC This was definitely the main cause of my issue. Might also be some loss of low end power, but that may be gearing related. Thank you so much for your response! Helped me solve an issue that honestly nobody else addresses. Most just say that the Arrma ESC or motor are junk and that you should replace with X or Y.
@@stephenclarkjr6967 Your welcome - some people just repeat what they see on Facebook and Forums
Wouldn't it be a great idea to put the thread lock first and then do the tightening on the wall and then detach the motor assembly and leave it for drying in upright position for 24h. When you put the thread lock first then you could get it to the threads a bit better.
Yes you could do that - just means taking the whole slipper assembly apart, but if you are happy to do that and have the time putting on the actual thread would be better. But if you are talking about putting thread lock on first and not taking it apart now, as the thread comes out more as you tighten, so better putting it on last
Does this setup for the slipper clutch work best for a certain type of terrain? Great video
Any type of terrain really
@@HardcoreRC I found that it was very difficult to turn the screw that adjusts the slipper clutch so that it was impossible for me to roll the wheels like you did in the video
@@lifetakesflight In which case i would leave it as is, unless you are finding you are popping drive shafts or its slipping to much
So just to clarify at the point where the wheels lock up is that a fully tightened slipper setting or would it be considered back out just a bit but not as much as the factory setting suggestion?
Where the wheels lock up is not fully tightened, where the wheels lock up should be perfect setting
@HardcoreRC I did this last night and just took it out for a quick run (had to let the loctite set) I noticed such a difference in the performance compared to the other day when I had it out!
@@scottlang9340 Better or worse than before ?
Way better!
I just got a set of duratrax 2.8 mt’s for my senton should I put a smaller pinion on the motor?
You will likely need to put a smaller pinion on, but give it a run first and keep an eye on the temps, if the motor and ESC get to hot then you know you need to drop the pinion size down
@@HardcoreRC thanks man 👍
Is typhon mega brushed 4x4 the same?
Principle is still the same, however believe the mega has a bigger nut you turn to tighten or loosen the slipper, worth checking the manual for what you need to turn
So just a couple drops is all you need ?
Yes and then let is set of at least 24 hours
Doing your method makes the u joints pop out on stock punch
Shouldn't do, it likley down to Arrma dropping the quality of the axels since they made an upgraded version available. Have done this on Outcast 4s, Granite v2, Typhon,v2, Senton v2 and first release Big Rock with no issues.
@@HardcoreRC it's a possibility, the spectrum servo went in the garbage after the first battery pack.
Ended up getting the arrma cvd drive shafts and 5 packs in so far so good but too early to say.
It's a tough, little truck and alot of fun, it just has a few little annoyances. Mainly shock rod ends not being threaded (pop out) and the slipper( run loose, lose performance and watch the screw back out or tight and pop u joints). Gorilla glueing the rod ends until I decide to put something more high end on there.
@@someoneyoudontknow3257 They are good trucks, its a shamed that they have dropped the quality of the axels.
You have found the shock rod end issue then, yep we just used super glue to put them back, but then found some big bore shocks on Ebay.
Best option for them is the Typhon 6s shocks if you can find them on a breakers site
@@HardcoreRC I saw them pop out in another TH-cam vid before I bought the truck, so I wasn't blind to it. It is a annoying though when the spring flies off and gets ran over by traffic before you can find it lol 🤣 😭
They're cheap enough online that it's almost worth it to have a couple spares in rotation and just keep glueing them as they pop out. And when that gets old I'll definitely check those Typhon shocks out. They look like a major upgrade all way around. Thanks for the replies man
@@someoneyoudontknow3257 oh yes that is annoying, or it flies off into deep grass and you cant find it, never really understood why this issue hasnt been addressed. Look on the bright side though, on the Vorteks i think it has been welded into the rod end as my mate keeps breaking the shafts, dont 4 of them now.
Yeah the Typhon 6s shocks are a very good upgrade all round, thicker shafts, better damping etc
Just fitted a new spur gear with pads
But it wont tighten back up
Tried everything i even bought a new screw kit with the washers and plastic bit
Any suggestions
only thing i can think of is you have the wrong kit - there are two versions now, one for the v2 and one for the v3 models - which model do you have ?
@@HardcoreRC v3 granite i have
@@miketube6662 did you get this part www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA311033 or this part: www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310882
Im guessing the second one which is for the V2 cars and the screw is 20mm instead of the 25mm on the v3 cars.
In theory all you need to get is a M2.5 x 25mm Cap head screw and you should be good
@@HardcoreRC cheers for the help👍
Hi bud noon question here lol. When you remove the slipper clutch do you have to sinc the mesh on the pinion gear
David Sanders if you have the standard motor mount then it has set holes for the pinion size, so no need to remesh. Would only need to remesh if you had upgraded to a sliding motor mount and also removed the motor.
@@HardcoreRC I've heard that setting this slipper that tight like thatis bad for your drivetrain and gifts I sent mine a half a turnout and it seems to be all right what is your opinion on that
@@shanemcclain8562 It wont be to tight like this, but go with what your happy with👍 , the real key is to stop it coming undone once you have set it 👍👍👍
Anyone have a link for the upgraded slide motor mount?
Will this help prevent rear diff from shredding ?
It should do yes, although im going to take a stab in the dark and say your car is a V3 bought after July 2021 ?? seems Arrma dropped the quality after this date as they then had the upgraded metal parts available - go figure
@@HardcoreRC you would be correct. Same issues with my. Vorteks. Very dissapointing
@@brianu33 This video has brought out a lot of people asking hence how i knew.
To me it seems like they dropped the quality to sell the upgrades 🤷♂🤷♂
So I bought a granite blx for my son and after 20 runs or so, no bashing, it started making a clicking noise and lost punch and speed. Could this be the issue or worse?
It could be this but the clicking makes me think not try this to tighten and if it still does it i would check the mesh on the pinion and spur gear, also check the motor bearing, might be some movement in the haft, front motor bearings are known to fail, other than that it might be a diff gear
@@HardcoreRC Thanks
@@HardcoreRC Did what you said here and it fixed the issue. Thanks again!
@@harleydad1975 Thats great news 👍👍
As I tried to set slipper clutch on moving forward with Allen key only my front wheels would lock up any ideas would be greatly appreciated 👍
Your front wheels locked up with he center drive shaft removed ? i would check the front diff as sounds like the input or crown gear have gone
@@HardcoreRC hi thanks for replying your video really helped yes I removed drive shaft as kraton only turns left n right not forward or back tried re binding no worked took slipper clutch of I could spin it round so thought it needed tighten but only front wheels locked up upon tighten
@@TheHarlemShow01 Ok i would then check the actual front and rear diffs and also check the drive shafts going to the wheels.
@@HardcoreRC half of the slipper clutch came loose so I bought new bolt and spring to hopefully lock it up
K i have this if slipper Clutch comes loose again look pretty Easy i have the Allen keys L shaped or hex screwdriver or regular screw driver that size to go into slipper hole
kk 👍
What axles are you using on this rig?
Stock axels, let me guess you have a Arrma v3 bought after July 2021 and you keep blowing the stock axels ?
Any suggestions on the rc Vorteks 3s throttle operation reversed? I’ve tried resetting to factory setting and nothing will work.
Should have a switch on the transmitter that changes the it.
Swap 2 of the 3 wires
on the motor. Will then go in the correct direction
@@yourmama2299 that will work, but the arrma wires are color coded, so as long as wire colors match wire colors then llikely its the reverse setting on transmitter
@@HardcoreRC true, also specifically from the spektrum literature, swapping 2 wires is stated to also be acceptable. 👍🏻
This may sound like a stupid question.
When you roll your RC back and forward it makes loud clicking noise. My Big Rock makes a very faint clicking noise but not much resistance.
Do I need to do anything or is that normal?
There is no such thing as a stupid question 👍
Its likely normal - as mine is the Outcast 4s it comes with a metal spur gear, the big rock is plastic spur, so will be quieter 👍
Normal 👍 My typhon is louder than my Big Rock for some reason. It could also be that the pinion gear is too tight on the spur gear OR it could be the motor bearings themselves. I put upgraded ones in the typhon and its actually a little bit more quiet than when i first got it with stock bearings :)
@@RUZTY1311 Weird because my granite is louder than my typhon and theyrr both V3 S3 which is weird
@@LitSFC My Granite is louder than my Typhon NOW to this day lol It swapped after i put metal spur gears in them haha
What size is the alan key or hex key?
Oh good question - from memory its a 2mm or 2.5mm hex
ok I need Some Help So my kraton 4 s When I pick it up No Noies Soon as I set in ground there is a Click Noise Help Please
Im guessing a clicking noise as you drive ? then i would check over the front and rear diffs, check bearings etc
@@HardcoreRC yes only when hitting the Gas
@@HardcoreRC I purchased it about a week ago and drove it two times maybe three and it started clicking The Guy Said He Just changed the Diff So I will open up and See today Sounds Like its Coming From the Rear
What size pinion should I be using for off-road or what is the stock pinion that comes in it originally
@@skeetskeetonu6928 Pretty sure the K4S comes with a 13 tooth pinion as standard.
One way to see if its front or rear is to take the center drive shaft out and see if it still makes a clicking sound, then you know its something to do with the rear area
Can granite 3s v3 do this?
Yes all the Arrms 3s and 4s cars do this
Why if the factory setting on the slipper wrong ? What would happen on factory setting ?
I wouldn't say it is wrong, but its set for general use. Also its quite common for the slipper to come lose
@@HardcoreRC so your set up for the slipper is better to run ?
What’s that power drill you are using? And where can I get one?
This is the one i was using: www.robertdyas.co.uk/draper-3-6v-cordless-li-ion-screwdriver-kit?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU0uUVzi6JOCZsypRl383dMNkuyNqqKlRGDIJzK7z-3XMaS7hxB2mqkaAlQ-EALw_wcB
@@HardcoreRC thank you.
Would the clutch being out of adjustment cause the axle to keep popping apart in the joint ?, mine is a big rock 3s ..
If the slipper is to tight it can cause the rear axels to pop, however i have heard a lot of people having the rear axel popping issue on new Big Rocks so think there may be a QC issue. Once the Axel has popped once it will keep doing it until replaced
@@HardcoreRC thank you , what is a QC lol ?
@@DXVHP Quality Control
Geeze same. here I just got the bigrock local guy told me same thing loosen up the slipper bout to do that now
@@jdub577 That plus im starting to wonder if it deliberate lower quality materials being used, im probably way off the mark, but these axel and diff issues only seem to have started when the CVD and metal diff parts were made by Arrma 🤷♀️🤷♀️
Are you wearing a Seiko?
My watch ?
You can also just Bleu loctite the screw right haha
You can, but when i did that it just kept coming undone
HELP PLEASE ...
I keep stripping pinion gear it’s over 6 month I’m struggling don’t know what else try
I’m running 20T pinion and after a short run get stripped
What issues can be ?
Slipper cluch too tight?
Are you running metal pinion and spur ? what mod pinion are you fitting ? if you stripping the pinion then it would suggest either your fitting the wrong mod (should be mod 0.8) or you mesh is to tight or too loose
0,8 57T HR with 20T pinion from arrma
HardcoreRC both mod 0,8
@@gianlucadamico6330 In which case it may be your mesh - presume your still running the stock fixed hole motor mount ? does the mesh feel tight ?
HardcoreRC correct I have the stock so mesh should be perfect and it’look ok
Could be the paunch setting too high witch is 7
2mm hex wrench i use to get THE ENGINE out and slipper Clutch As well the put blue tight inside where that screw is underneath the Engine and let sit for 24 hours 1 to2 drops is All i need?
correct 👍👍
Do u smooth it loctite out around the screw underneath THE Engine but tighten it fitst and let it set for 24 hout?
Hours
This should not be to hard to do thank you for THE video iam learning alot from video👍
So you don't back it off any? I did and still blew a driveshaft, probably because I didn't loctite it
I didnt back it off any and not had any issues, if you do still find you pop a drive shaft you can back it off a bit, once a drive shaft has popped it will just keep on popping until you replace it
@@HardcoreRC once my new shafts arrive I'll give it a go, cheers mate
This thing as been a pain in the ass.. rear differential broke 3times slipper gear slips or brake diff.jc.. lemon ..?
24 hrs.. jc.. ty4sharing!! 24 hrs..ooohhhhaaaahhhh!!..lol
You have broken rear diffs ? or rear drive shafts ? have you tried orange threadlock ? stronger than blue put not stupid hard to undo like read: www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/permatex-high-strength-removable-orange-threadlocker/
@@HardcoreRC thank you sir!! I sub.. I will .. the thing does a wheelie on to a top to bounce off the top back on to its wheels to break the diff.. I'm 45. 40 yrs. With rc.. wtf..!! I I should have got the short course tk.. stunt truck.ppptttppptt...lol ty4sharing!!
@@matthewjames2649 be more gentle with the throttle ? also what punch is the ESC set to ? if you find this slipper setting to aggressive then back it off a little
@@matthewjames2649 Thanks for the Sub
So you didn't strip out your diff after tightening it that much
nope - no issues what so ever - never blown a diff on any of my 3s or 4s models
@@HardcoreRC Well thanks then
One observation I can add is I also run my slipper this way with a granite running 3s and it runs great. As for diff problems and stripping gears it really depends on what environment your bashing in and driving habits especially with a slip this tight. I did strip one rear diff and the culprit ended up being contamination of the diff, the included shielded bearings were letting dirt and sand and everything in. After switching to good sealed bearings and keeping it properly greased. ( Using Permatex HP Synthetic Grease) have not had any problems since with the diffs.
Link to grease if interested - Canadian link just for reference, find alternative supply stock if needed.
www.amazon.ca/Permatex-31832-Multi-Purpose-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B07YLLPN51/ref=sr_1_1?crid=29UML3LYSH14U&dchild=1&keywords=permatex+synthetic+grease&qid=1596147953&sprefix=permatex+syn%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-1
@@jeffreyberry9743 thanks for sharing the information 👍👍
@@HardcoreRC After seeing the release of V3 range today from Arrma, looks like they took care of alot of problems. Including sealed bearings
I have Already the lock tight in there the my hobby shop ower did it in 5 minutes
OK - if you find the slipper still comes loose i would suggest putting some orange lock tight down the back - orange is till undoable by hand but stronger than blue
@@HardcoreRC u mean plastic gloves?
@@HardcoreRC then how do in put it on and how like a dab of it OR more?
@@troyflanagan4237 Why are you asking about plastic gloves ?
@@troyflanagan4237 Please watch the video - it states in the video to use 1 or two drops
Did the trick work ?
works for me, and no one has come back to say it didnt work for them
@@HardcoreRC did a light bash today, nothing crazy and out popped my left rear cvd slider. I just recently set my punch setting to 7... but never checked my slipper setting when I put my metal spur gear on (BRCC V3).
I'll try this method and see if it works.
@@3Point_virtuallyrendered also careful on the punch setting as the rear cvd are the weak spot, set the slipper of punch to high and it will break , best to get the upgraded CVD's if you want crazy punch
I keep popping rear ujoints, slipper is set factory.
I would check to see if it was set to tight at the factory - only reason to pop the rear drive shafts is if the slipper is to tight, so just back it off a little
I have same issue my friend
@@billypln9927 If you are popping rear drive shafts back the slipper off a little bit, say a 1/4 turn
@@HardcoreRC Alright!!
Just talking about slipper Clutch thats All my Engine is fine
Then you should be fine 👍
It's becoming a thorn in my side understand?
All these things i have to do to get Truck to run right
I thought these Trucks were supposed to be Tough Truck i only drive it on Baseball Diamond and grass i dont bash it or crash it
I guess i will see when i get it out of shop i Asked the owner to check hole Truck throughly inside and OUTSIDE of Truck put differential fluid in back OF TRUCK front of Truck And center of shim differential if needed loctight slipper Clutch basically Check Everything on the inside of Truck before i get it back and check Engine Etc Etc Etc on Truck.
why in the hell you lock the slipper you have to lose it a little bit i dont understand this
Its not locked - still has slip on it, to lose and it will just burn out, to tight and it will pop drive shafts.
I have adjust slipper as you have done in my big rock , but still taking out axle. I have come to believe this model is a waste of my money , pay all that to begin with , than return every other day for 25 bucks for axles , no thanks, buyer beware, this truck is junk !!!!! And now is in the garbage , totally done with arrma junk !!
I do feel for you as truly believe there is a QC issue with the current axels, we have never had any issue, but all i heard of late is issues on recently bought cars, might be worth trying to see warranty replacement with the better CVD's ??
Well , I have drilled small holes in the yokes just before the pin holes in universal joints . Have installed small nuts and bolts through the yokes in the axle that is breaking , finally got a full run out of it, hopefully it will last till the metal driveshaft are available... thanks Hardcore rc , sorry for the frustration 👍
@@DXVHP That sounds like a good idea, hope it works for you. Dont be sorry, i know how frustrating it is when you have spent good money on something and it keeps breaking