I did Dorman kit first then AC Delco. Same issue. ECU pins good etc. both sensors within parameters as well. I just spliced mine like this 30 minutes ago and went to oriellys to clear code. I’ll report back if it comes back next week when using truck. It’s a work truck and it’s the weekend 😆
@@user-qi8ot4yg8v yes! It worked perfect. I wasn’t sure which sensor was bad as I had replaced both sensors and harness with ac Delco. One sensor was bad and I didn’t want to take apart again. So I put a male push in plug on each wire coming up from the sensors and a female connection on the two I put together at the plug. One wire didn’t fix it so I switched the wires to the other one and cleared codes. It has stayed off for a week now and the truck runs much better as the timing is back to where it should be!
2002 to 2006 5.3 and 6.0 Tahoe's, Avalanches, Silverado's, Escalades, etc etc, had that design specifically to make sales back in cost off set repairs, cause GM knew that they would be able to charge their customers if done at the "dealerships" or other "reputable shops" 2 to 4k repairing knock sensor issues under the intake manifold - GM will never admit to it but a lot of car brands were following suit in this type of sale kick back for the brands making cars with a certain expensive repair "pending" whenever it happens, nowadays everyone is starting to know how to hack around this tho thankfully. Corpo America's greedy hands are never satisficed!
Going to do this tomorrow, no knock and I run premium anyway. I noticed timing was something like -16° 🤦♂️ with the code reader anyway I imagine that should be close to zero under normal conditions.
So is this still working as you set it up? I don't have any knock in the engine. It just started making this chirping noise when you advance the throttle. I'm told l it's those knock sensors. It was my dad's truck he just gave it to my son. He's had an engine light on for years ...didn't care. I just drove it 400 mi at 80 miles an hour in it seems to have worsened or at least the chirping noise came in my dad doesn't remember hearing it. I see two sensors and a harness on eBay for 20 bucks. I'm thinking of just plugging them in on the front of the block like you did... I see the threaded holes. Running that harness to the connector and being done with it. Any reason that wouldn't work?
yes its still works, I just did this again on my 2005 crew cab for same issue and that one too is working great. This one had a dark blue wire and light blue. light blue is the green wire. Blue is for the front, sensor 1 or A depending on what scanner you use and Green (lighter wire) rear is sensor 2 or B
Im not sure how your having this issue.Ive done this on at least 3 different vehicles without ever having a issue. in fact my current vehicle is a Black 2005 silverado crew cab with the 6.0L and I've done this to that vehicle as well. been over a yr now since I've done it and its still working with no check engine light. Im thinking youve done something wrong.
Blue is for the front, sensor 1
Green (lighter wire) rear sensor 2
And anyone watching unless you want to remove the intake twice get Ac Delco everything
I did Dorman kit first then AC Delco. Same issue. ECU pins good etc. both sensors within parameters as well. I just spliced mine like this 30 minutes ago and went to oriellys to clear code. I’ll report back if it comes back next week when using truck. It’s a work truck and it’s the weekend 😆
@@Motoxr32any update ?
@@user-qi8ot4yg8v yes! It worked perfect. I wasn’t sure which sensor was bad as I had replaced both sensors and harness with ac Delco. One sensor was bad and I didn’t want to take apart again. So I put a male push in plug on each wire coming up from the sensors and a female connection on the two I put together at the plug. One wire didn’t fix it so I switched the wires to the other one and cleared codes. It has stayed off for a week now and the truck runs much better as the timing is back to where it should be!
Just did this. Took 5 min. Works great, no pending or current codes anymore and no weird idle
Best explanation
2002 to 2006 5.3 and 6.0 Tahoe's, Avalanches, Silverado's, Escalades, etc etc, had that design specifically to make sales back in cost off set repairs, cause GM knew that they would be able to charge their customers if done at the "dealerships" or other "reputable shops" 2 to 4k repairing knock sensor issues under the intake manifold - GM will never admit to it but a lot of car brands were following suit in this type of sale kick back for the brands making cars with a certain expensive repair "pending" whenever it happens, nowadays everyone is starting to know how to hack around this tho thankfully.
Corpo America's greedy hands are never satisficed!
You're a genius 🛻
Going to do this tomorrow, no knock and I run premium anyway. I noticed timing was something like -16° 🤦♂️ with the code reader anyway I imagine that should be close to zero under normal conditions.
Hi i enjoyed your video.will your knock senser relocating work the same as been under manifold.Ty.
Will it work on 2000 model 5.3
Yo I put on a s&b cold air intake and it shot this code at me wtf
does removeing one knock sensor cause engine damage? becuase i was thinking about trying on my 5.3 because it feels slow and has a weird idle.
Will it work on my 1999 4.8 Silverado? Please answer asap am having the same problem with my truck
Did it work
So is this still working as you set it up?
I don't have any knock in the engine. It just started making this chirping noise when you advance the throttle. I'm told l it's those knock sensors. It was my dad's truck he just gave it to my son. He's had an engine light on for years ...didn't care. I just drove it 400 mi at 80 miles an hour in it seems to have worsened or at least the chirping noise came in my dad doesn't remember hearing it.
I see two sensors and a harness on eBay for 20 bucks. I'm thinking of just plugging them in on the front of the block like you did... I see the threaded holes. Running that harness to the connector and being done with it.
Any reason that wouldn't work?
yes its still works, I just did this again on my 2005 crew cab for same issue and that one too is working great. This one had a dark blue wire and light blue. light blue is the green wire. Blue is for the front, sensor 1 or A depending on what scanner you use and
Green (lighter wire) rear is sensor 2 or B
I've tried that on mine it's a 2003 Yukon Denali. It knows when there's one sensor on mine it comes up with another fault code that says One sensor
Im not sure how your having this issue.Ive done this on at least 3 different vehicles without ever having a issue. in fact my current vehicle is a Black 2005 silverado crew cab with the 6.0L and I've done this to that vehicle as well. been over a yr now since I've done it and its still working with no check engine light. Im thinking youve done something wrong.
Is this still working for you bro my bank 2 is doing the same thing
Yes, It works great. NO ISSUES!!
@mogyver69 thank you bro I'm doing the splicing tomorrow for sure. Thanks again man
Will this way still pass smog test?
@@kyleboynton874 yes, no check engine light
Awesome thanks for the video this is exactly what I need it
Has anybody started experiencing a high RPM shift from 2nd to third gear after doing this?
that sounds like a transmission issue. should get your fluids changed and or the trans filter as well
Replaced both knock sensors my 04 Chevy Tahoe using ac Delco ,and wiring harness codes still coming up,any fixes?
that means you got engine knock somewhere. the knock sensors are good.
Hold your rmp at 5k
@@joeturtleneck2300 if he had knock the low circuit code wouldn’t be the code that shows
do what dusty said , hold it at 5krpm for 3-5sec 2x
@@marcohidalgo7986 what’s that do?
A lot of extra work for nothing just cut the wire and put a wire tap on the main wire and dead wire on the connector side
You're the man.
wrong info
Elaborate...