I'm a DIYer. I've done a bunch of floating floors, but I've never done engineered or hardwood floors. Thanks for explaining the spline method. I've never seen this done before and it makes perfect sense. Great video as always.
You do nice work every time i have watched your video's.I wanted to share one thing i have learned in the 19 years of doing hardwood floors.When you do your starter boards in a open room it makes it much easier if you get like a 16 ' 1×4 smart trim board & screw it to your subfloor right up to your snapline & than you have no worries of your first row moving as you install.I like to use the smart 1×4 cause it seems to be the best straight edge & i can get them 16' if needed.Keep up the good work and i look forward to your new video's in the future.
I've watched many of these and this is by far the best. Everyone else either talks like they are talking to another professional, or they don't cover everything. I love how you show two methods (spline or measuring for the starter row) of what I call "working backwards". One question, at 35:30 you measure from the wall in 2 locations and snap a chalk line when going from the hallway to the bedroom. What if the wall isn't square with the wood you have been laying in the hallway?
I bought this nail gun as we were planning to renew all the fencing in our back garden. As this involved 19 double slatted fence panels, 10 of which needed to be cut down in size, we knew there would be a need for a great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt deal of re-stapling the wooden slats to the wooden framework. Each alteration required the re-stapling of 62 wooden slats with double staples. Prior to starting the work we ordered sufficient additional staples as per the instructions with the gun.The gun performed fantastically throughout the entire project with no jams of misfires. The adjustable power was excellent allowing the staples to be fired into the 8mm slats to the correct depth. For the price paid this was a bargain and it proved itself to be so reliable and versatile making an arduous task much quicker and professional. I cannot recommend this product highly enough and it will be used on many other projects in the future.
Good video - thanks for producing. Whenever I acclimate any finish materials into a conditioned space, I first completely unbox/unwrap then stack-and-sticker the material and leave for 7 to 10 days. That way, the conditioned air gets all-around each piece of material and the material becomes fully-acclimated faster. Admittedly, this takes more time and labor but the material is thereby guaranteed to be fully-acclimated. Also and whenever possible, I try to avoid chalk-lining and then aligning the tongue to the chalk-line. Rather I find it more accurate to align the bottom lip edge of the groove side to the chalked-line and then lay up the next rows either side. The glued-spline method is always good.
This is a great instructional video. I’m remodeling a house completely and this really helped me to know what tools I need and the correct way to put the flooring down.
Always loved hardwood flooring. Doing a lot of random 3,4,5" is really rewarding to see when it's all done. I love your explanation of letting the floor acclimate to the environment and the humidity control as well. One other important part is when you explained the direction of the floor joists and how the hardwood has to be run. I've had arguments with clients because over this and once I explained the reason, it made sense to them. Also doing some inlay wood vents that are flush with the floor are really cool looking. I had one job I had to do a perimeter flooring of 2 ft in a room around where carpeting was going to be in the center. Having alternate my corners and making your own pieces at certain times and of course the splines are the best thing to be used with many other installations. Screwing the tongue side and the groove side always worked out the best compared to nailing them with a finish nailer. Thank you for this video with so much important details. (Even around the stone work 👍🏻) Personally I've used my ratchet floor nailer more on jobs when it was in a finished house with furniture etc. Of course the pneumatic is great 75% of the time and cleats unless it was an engineered floor that required staples. Refinishing on a 3/4" solid wood floor has more to work with than engineered. The margin for expansion is really important as well. Most of my flooring jobs I've used shoe molding with the baseboard which gives it a really good look too. Thank you for all the information on this video and the timeline ones too. Great job Josh 👍🏻
I really enjoy installing hardwood floors as well. I have installed unfinished and prefinished. The widths have done is 2 1/4, 3 1/4, and 5 inch. So far my favorite one has been the 5 inch shown this video. It went down relatively quick. Screwing in the spline is a good idea as well. It sounds like you have a incredible amount of construction experience, David. Always look forward to seeing your comments. Thanks for stopping by and watching!
This is an excellent installation guide. I am contemplating a hardwood installation at home, so I have watched gobs of videos about hardwood installs. I am really happy I found this one. After watching this guide, I know I can handle doing it. It's not just what he says but how he shows it, the order of operation is great. Most of the videos I have seen demonstrate the need for a chalk line but not why or how to properly make one. This guy does. Also, the tip about undercutting the drywall makes so much sense, it is so easy to do, and I haven't seen anyone else mention it. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to produce the video. It's really helpful.
I’m glad you found this video as well! I always try to put much detail in my videos as possible. Undercutting the drywall is something that has to be done in certain cases. Good luck with your hardwood flooring project!
Very good video. A lot of good information here. Since baseboard trim is all less than 3/4 in and most is 1/2 in it makes sense to cut away the bottom of the drywall so your 3/4 in flooring can expand under it and your 1/2 in thick baseboard will cover your flooring by 1/4 in....so you don't use quarter round. I took measurements from my outside walls and snapped a line all the way through my place from front to back...about 33 ft. Now my flooring runs from the top of the stairs all the way back and is square. The drilling technique is great and used it a lot in tight places...used glue for smaller pieces along the wall. I also used the spline as you show here. I bought a tiny wood planer tnat is about 4 or 5 in long....Very handy to smooth down high spots. I did have to plane the spline down a little bit so my flooring would go together without leaving a gap. My install looks professional and i have done things correctly thanks to this great video.
Thank you! I actually enjoy installing hardwood floors myself. It’s usually not too complicated and it was nice to see it get put down. Good luck with your flooring project!
You are a true craftsman. It is obvious you take great pride in your work. Congratulations on your fine work and thanks for making this video. I hope to be doing a flooring installation soon!
One tip regarding your math adding in the waste factor: If you take the area of the room, 224sqft in this case, and multiply it by 1.10 instead of .10, you won't have to add the area and the waste together as you already did by putting the 1 before the decimal. Saves a step and chance for error. I always use this when calculating the cost of something plus tax, cost of a meal with tip, etc.
Excellent video and great advice. This was my first go around installing hardwood. The best advice for me was using the screws not only for the first rows, but other spots where I was not completely sure what my next step was or where I was making cuts like around heating ducts and doorways. It allows you the option of removing the boards if yours not happy with the results, or think you may need to make a change. For the most part I used the nailer and nails, but using the screws allowed me to experiment a little bit. Thanks!
Josh, You have done an incredible job in producing this hardwood flooring installation video. I recommend using a Bostitch floor jack to eliminate gaps near the wall.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is by far the best video I’ve found for my project. I have a couple of different situations in an open hallway coming off stairs and along a (possibly crooked) rail base, but I can figure out what to do from all the details you provided in this video. I also have a bedroom alongside the hallway (easy) and one at the end of the hallway. And floor vents.
You are welcome Marie! I am thankful for viewers like you that enjoy all of the detail because I feel like it does help when you are doing the project. I would like to wish you well on your flooring project. Be sure to stay tuned for more!
Another excellent video, before I sell my house I'm going to get some hardwood floor put in. Definitely going to bookmark and download this video once you upload it.
Good video. Using a story rod off of plywood seams minimizes constant reversing and line snapping. In most homes the walls are generally pretty parallel to the long plywood seems.
Great video, thanks. I noticed you were using Bellawood 3/4 x 5" flooring over Advantech same as I am. They sold me underlayment and I started using it but had some creaking on the back edge of the boards. Their website recommends glue assist so I had to start over and do the glue assist with no underlayment and it is a much quieter floor.
I have done a tongue and grove floating floor with glue. I need to install another, but I want to nail or staple it down. I don't have plywood. I have OSB subfloor and 3/8 engineered wood. I am not certain of the correct fastener to use. I thought I would use a 2 inch staple. Now, I see you're using the single cleat. What length are you using and which would you recommend for my install? Which would hold best in the OSP and which is likely to cause less damage to the tongue? I have never seen the spline sold in stores. is there a particular thickness to ask for? What type of underlayment did you use again? I have heard the roofing paper can have an odor. I know you gave the name but I couldn't catch it. Could you type it so I can look for it? Thank you so much for your video. I wish I could hire you!
Hey Josh, I've watched over this a few times and I still cannot understand why the screws for the first row. Doesn't fastening with screws prevent movement? As I understand how these floors are supposed to work, they are supposed to expand seasonally. Wouldn't that bow them in odd spots? Again, I probably have missed it in the video somewhere. Thanks!
Im a DIYer and I’m getting ready to install 6” hickory. What I can’t find clarification on is if I should use a vapor barrier? From what I understand you want glue assist with wide plank material, but it doesn’t make any sense to me to put a vapor barrier down and glue assist on top? What I am planning on doing is using the glue itself as the vapor barrier and just make sure I have complete coverage overtop of my osb subfloor. Do you have any suggestions/clarification that may help me? Im doing roughly 500 sq ft.
My hubby doesn't comment on videos, so I will for him. He says that this video explains a lot of things that the others don't. He's been watching it and taking notes all morning. I am hopeful that I will see hardwoods in our bedroom really soon.😊
Hi, very informative video but I would like to have some light on one thing. Why did the first board get screwed down 6 times if you left a 3/4 gap for expansion. I
Amazing video ! Would you recommend using Dewalt cordless 20V flooring nailer instead of a pneumatic nailer for DYI project? Also, do you cut boards (length) in random sizes or do you follow some unique pattern?
You could use a hand planer, except the nails in the subfloor may be exposed and you could ruin your planner quickly. That is why I recommend a belt sander. I hope that helps!
You're really good at what you do. Thanks for the videos, they're helping me out tremendously! How would you secure your starter rows when installing flooring onto slab on grade/ concrete?
I’m glad I can help you, Craig! I would check with the manufacturer of the flooring to see what is possible. Different manufacturers might recommend different things.
After the new year I will be laying a nice wide maple floor in an upstairs bedroom. Believe it or not I enjoy laying floors. Between that and painting I find it relaxing, especially when you have all the RIGHT TOOLS / EQUIPMENT.
I would like to point out that in newer construction, if 5/8 Advantech T&G subfloor is installed properly, glued and spaced at joints correctly, you dont need to run the floor perpendicular to the floor joists as the Advantech subfloor holds staples exceptionally well and has very minor deflection on new joists spaced properly and glued. Also, anything over 4"face needs glue assist and removes the need for paper. Paper now a days is used more for the installer to slide the pieces around. Advantech has good moisture sepperation qualities, and in order to glue assist or make a pattern in the floor, you need to use construction adhesive directly to subfloor and not paper.
He is a fan of prefinished because he doesn’t have to come back in and sand and stain and put polyurethane or his choice of top coats on top. Today I started installing 9 inch white oak in Balboa Island, Newport Beach, California. A good installer only needs 5% waste. I’ve never heard of 10% until the 2000s.
I had prefinished installed and what I noticed is that the boards don’t put up as tight because they’re rounded over on the edges I think if I had it not prefinished, the boards would not be rounded off on the edges Giving a tighter look And again, because they’re not that pipe together that small little space I’m thinking is gonna be more susceptible for dirt to get down into I guess it’s a trade off because if you have to finish it then there’s all the extra work you have to do
very well explained and good video but I have a question and how do I install it if it is a concrete floor and I want to install Hardwood Floor and if possible, how is the installation charged if it is by linial feet thank you very much
what about installing underlayer to prevent the annoying squeaking known in hardwood floor? or maybe the vapor barrier you installed will do the trick?
One thing I don’t understand…. Is how can the hardwood floor expand three-quarter inch if it’s nailed to the subfloor, which doesn’t expand?…. On a nailed floor the only way that hardwood could expand and contract is if the subfloor expanded and contracted with it.
If you don’t have that nailer, can you use a nail gun? Like 16g maybe? Is it also possible to use screws for the whole room, with the understanding that it’s a lot more work? Love your vids. Thanks!
Wood expands and contracts more tangentially to the grain than it does radially or longitudinally. What that means for hardwood flooring is that it moves more perpendicular to the long axis of the board than along it. Staples and cleats hold it to the subfloor, but they can still move a little bit. Nothing's going to get in the way of wood expanding, which is why you sometimes see people's floors pop up when they get excessively humid. It's also why you generally only see a full glue-down advised for engineered flooring, not solid hardwood. It needs to move. A good rule of thumb is to add 1/4 inch of space from the outer wall for every unbroken 4 to 6 feet of linear flooring (either axis). Floor transitions and drywall widths provide decent gaps, but it's best to leave a little extra.
I'm a DIYer. I've done a bunch of floating floors, but I've never done engineered or hardwood floors. Thanks for explaining the spline method. I've never seen this done before and it makes perfect sense. Great video as always.
Hardwood flooring is not that difficult in my opinion. The spline method is a game changer. Good luck with your project!
You do nice work every time i have watched your video's.I wanted to share one thing i have learned in the 19 years of doing hardwood floors.When you do your starter boards in a open room it makes it much easier if you get like a 16 ' 1×4 smart trim board & screw it to your subfloor right up to your snapline & than you have no worries of your first row moving as you install.I like to use the smart 1×4 cause it seems to be the best straight edge & i can get them 16' if needed.Keep up the good work and i look forward to your new video's in the future.
Very good video. I love the way you speak in detail to teach us. Best video on you tube for hardwood floors.
I've watched many of these and this is by far the best. Everyone else either talks like they are talking to another professional, or they don't cover everything. I love how you show two methods (spline or measuring for the starter row) of what I call "working backwards". One question, at 35:30 you measure from the wall in 2 locations and snap a chalk line when going from the hallway to the bedroom. What if the wall isn't square with the wood you have been laying in the hallway?
Thank you for great detail especially the floor joist direction. That was a suggestion that would be easy to miss.
Excellent video
I bought this nail gun as we were planning to renew all the fencing in our back garden. As this involved 19 double slatted fence panels, 10 of which needed to be cut down in size, we knew there would be a need for a great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt deal of re-stapling the wooden slats to the wooden framework. Each alteration required the re-stapling of 62 wooden slats with double staples. Prior to starting the work we ordered sufficient additional staples as per the instructions with the gun.The gun performed fantastically throughout the entire project with no jams of misfires. The adjustable power was excellent allowing the staples to be fired into the 8mm slats to the correct depth. For the price paid this was a bargain and it proved itself to be so reliable and versatile making an arduous task much quicker and professional. I cannot recommend this product highly enough and it will be used on many other projects in the future.
Great step by step detailed instructions. One of the best tutorial videos I’ve seen. Nicely done.
This is hands down the best tutorial….I am current doing my floors and keep coming back for reference.
I didn't know about the "spline" That's cool!
Good video - thanks for producing.
Whenever I acclimate any finish materials into a conditioned space, I first completely unbox/unwrap then stack-and-sticker the material and leave for 7 to 10 days. That way, the conditioned air gets all-around each piece of material and the material becomes fully-acclimated faster. Admittedly, this takes more time and labor but the material is thereby guaranteed to be fully-acclimated.
Also and whenever possible, I try to avoid chalk-lining and then aligning the tongue to the chalk-line. Rather I find it more accurate to align the bottom lip edge of the groove side to the chalked-line and then lay up the next rows either side. The glued-spline method is always good.
This is a great instructional video. I’m remodeling a house completely and this really helped me to know what tools I need and the correct way to put the flooring down.
Always loved hardwood flooring. Doing a lot of random 3,4,5" is really rewarding to see when it's all done. I love your explanation of letting the floor acclimate to the environment and the humidity control as well. One other important part is when you explained the direction of the floor joists and how the hardwood has to be run. I've had arguments with clients because over this and once I explained the reason, it made sense to them. Also doing some inlay wood vents that are flush with the floor are really cool looking. I had one job I had to do a perimeter flooring of 2 ft in a room around where carpeting was going to be in the center. Having alternate my corners and making your own pieces at certain times and of course the splines are the best thing to be used with many other installations. Screwing the tongue side and the groove side always worked out the best compared to nailing them with a finish nailer. Thank you for this video with so much important details. (Even around the stone work 👍🏻)
Personally I've used my ratchet floor nailer more on jobs when it was in a finished house with furniture etc. Of course the pneumatic is great 75% of the time and cleats unless it was an engineered floor that required staples. Refinishing on a 3/4" solid wood floor has more to work with than engineered. The margin for expansion is really important as well. Most of my flooring jobs I've used shoe molding with the baseboard which gives it a really good look too.
Thank you for all the information on this video and the timeline ones too. Great job Josh 👍🏻
I really enjoy installing hardwood floors as well. I have installed unfinished and prefinished. The widths have done is 2 1/4, 3 1/4, and 5 inch. So far my favorite one has been the 5 inch shown this video. It went down relatively quick. Screwing in the spline is a good idea as well. It sounds like you have a incredible amount of construction experience, David. Always look forward to seeing your comments. Thanks for stopping by and watching!
This is the best flooring installation video, especially for transitions.
Thanks for explaining it so good, Sir ! You are a superb teacher !
Great info. Save a step in your calculation, multiply your square footage by 1.1. Same outcome but fewer key strokes.
Thanks a lot! I appreciate you helping the community with your tip on the calculation. We are all in this together!
This is an excellent installation guide. I am contemplating a hardwood installation at home, so I have watched gobs of videos about hardwood installs. I am really happy I found this one. After watching this guide, I know I can handle doing it. It's not just what he says but how he shows it, the order of operation is great. Most of the videos I have seen demonstrate the need for a chalk line but not why or how to properly make one. This guy does. Also, the tip about undercutting the drywall makes so much sense, it is so easy to do, and I haven't seen anyone else mention it. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to produce the video. It's really helpful.
I’m glad you found this video as well! I always try to put much detail in my videos as possible. Undercutting the drywall is something that has to be done in certain cases. Good luck with your hardwood flooring project!
Very good video. A lot of good information here. Since baseboard trim is all less than 3/4 in and most is 1/2 in it makes sense to cut away the bottom of the drywall so your 3/4 in flooring can expand under it and your 1/2 in thick baseboard will cover your flooring by 1/4 in....so you don't use quarter round. I took measurements from my outside walls and snapped a line all the way through my place from front to back...about 33 ft. Now my flooring runs from the top of the stairs all the way back and is square. The drilling technique is great and used it a lot in tight places...used glue for smaller pieces along the wall. I also used the spline as you show here. I bought a tiny wood planer tnat is about 4 or 5 in long....Very handy to smooth down high spots. I did have to plane the spline down a little bit so my flooring would go together without leaving a gap. My install looks professional and i have done things correctly thanks to this great video.
Fantastic tutorial. Now am ready for my project. Just have to assemble all the tools first. Thank you so much for your knowledge and time.
Thank you! I actually enjoy installing hardwood floors myself. It’s usually not too complicated and it was nice to see it get put down. Good luck with your flooring project!
You are a true craftsman. It is obvious you take great pride in your work. Congratulations on your fine work and thanks for making this video. I hope to be doing a flooring installation soon!
I appreciate that! You are welcome! I hope your floor insulation goes well. Thanks for watching, and good luck!
One tip regarding your math adding in the waste factor: If you take the area of the room, 224sqft in this case, and multiply it by 1.10 instead of .10, you won't have to add the area and the waste together as you already did by putting the 1 before the decimal. Saves a step and chance for error. I always use this when calculating the cost of something plus tax, cost of a meal with tip, etc.
🎉 Absolutely loved this video! Great job!
Great! Thank you. I tried my best to make all of my videos full of information. Stay tune for the next video!
Excellent video and great advice. This was my first go around installing hardwood. The best advice for me was using the screws not only for the first rows, but other spots where I was not completely sure what my next step was or where I was making cuts like around heating ducts and doorways. It allows you the option of removing the boards if yours not happy with the results, or think you may need to make a change. For the most part I used the nailer and nails, but using the screws allowed me to experiment a little bit. Thanks!
Thanks for being so thorough!
Josh, You have done an incredible job in producing this hardwood flooring installation video.
I recommend using a Bostitch floor jack to eliminate gaps near the wall.
Thank you! this is the best video I found about installation of hardwood floors, great job!
Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is by far the best video I’ve found for my project. I have a couple of different situations in an open hallway coming off stairs and along a (possibly crooked) rail base, but I can figure out what to do from all the details you provided in this video. I also have a bedroom alongside the hallway (easy) and one at the end of the hallway. And floor vents.
You are welcome Marie! I am thankful for viewers like you that enjoy all of the detail because I feel like it does help when you are doing the project. I would like to wish you well on your flooring project. Be sure to stay tuned for more!
Thanks a lot for the video. You packed in some really handy tricks and tips that’s hard to find on other similar videos.
that 21 min mark was game changing. AMAZING video
Oh yes, the spine is a huge help when it comes to several situations while doing hardwood floor. Thanks for watching the video!
Another excellent video, before I sell my house I'm going to get some hardwood floor put in. Definitely going to bookmark and download this video once you upload it.
Bookmark for later is a great idea. Thanks for watching!
This is one of the finest video for first time installer engineer hard hood floor. Thank you for making for video
I like to watch your videos and learn something every time, good work.
Good to know, Noah! I look forward to seeing viewers comments. Take care!
Great job and some great tips, I’m having a new home built in Tennessee and I have decided to install engineered flooring
Like the way you show how it done, really good.
So glad I watched this video. Very helpful and detailed.
Very in depth. Learned a ton. Thank you
Awesome detailed instructions!!! Love your work!!!
Great information how to install hardwood flooring and well done. Thank you!
Excellent and thorough video. Good work guys. Thank you
Your videos are really helpful. You explain everything pretty good.
I appreciate your feedback Rob. Take care!
Absolutely brilliant video!
I love the way you explain how to do it
i love this guy, i learned a lot already, being putting it to use
Good video. Using a story rod off of plywood seams minimizes constant reversing and line snapping. In most homes the walls are generally pretty parallel to the long plywood seems.
Great video thanks for the step by step explanation
Your work worths a million:-)
Great video, thanks. I noticed you were using Bellawood 3/4 x 5" flooring over Advantech same as I am. They sold me underlayment and I started using it but had some creaking on the back edge of the boards. Their website recommends glue assist so I had to start over and do the glue assist with no underlayment and it is a much quieter floor.
Love your videos. So helpful. Thank you.
I’m glad you are loving them! I try to make all my videos simple to follow. You are welcome!
I have done a tongue and grove floating floor with glue. I need to install another, but I want to nail or staple it down. I don't have plywood. I have OSB subfloor and 3/8 engineered wood. I am not certain of the correct fastener to use. I thought I would use a 2 inch staple. Now, I see you're using the single cleat. What length are you using and which would you recommend for my install? Which would hold best in the OSP and which is likely to cause less damage to the tongue? I have never seen the spline sold in stores. is there a particular thickness to ask for? What type of underlayment did you use again? I have heard the roofing paper can have an odor. I know you gave the name but I couldn't catch it. Could you type it so I can look for it? Thank you so much for your video. I wish I could hire you!
Great video! Lots of usefull tips
Hey Josh, I've watched over this a few times and I still cannot understand why the screws for the first row. Doesn't fastening with screws prevent movement? As I understand how these floors are supposed to work, they are supposed to expand seasonally. Wouldn't that bow them in odd spots? Again, I probably have missed it in the video somewhere. Thanks!
Im a DIYer and I’m getting ready to install 6” hickory. What I can’t find clarification on is if I should use a vapor barrier? From what I understand you want glue assist with wide plank material, but it doesn’t make any sense to me to put a vapor barrier down and glue assist on top? What I am planning on doing is using the glue itself as the vapor barrier and just make sure I have complete coverage overtop of my osb subfloor. Do you have any suggestions/clarification that may help me? Im doing roughly 500 sq ft.
I am going to do this
Wish me luck
My hubby doesn't comment on videos, so I will for him. He says that this video explains a lot of things that the others don't. He's been watching it and taking notes all morning. I am hopeful that I will see hardwoods in our bedroom really soon.😊
So did you get your floors?
Yes! He's all done and it's beautiful. No cussing, either.
@annefawcett6636 nice...just doing my entire house atm. Almost got all my upstairs rooms done.
Exelent vidio broo..thanks God bless you.
Hi, very informative video but I would like to have some light on one thing. Why did the first board get screwed down 6 times if you left a 3/4 gap for expansion. I
Amazing video ! Would you recommend using Dewalt cordless 20V flooring nailer instead of a pneumatic nailer for DYI project? Also, do you cut boards (length) in random sizes or do you follow some unique pattern?
Can you use a planer instead of a sander to level the subfloor? Which is better?
You could use a hand planer, except the nails in the subfloor may be exposed and you could ruin your planner quickly. That is why I recommend a belt sander. I hope that helps!
Do you recommend glue for 6” hardwood?
Great video and I appreciate the detailed explanations!
Amazing video 👍
Thank you! I’m glad you like it!
How do you transition existing carpet to new hardwood floor? We are replacing the carpet in a hallway and need to transition to bedrooms.
You're really good at what you do. Thanks for the videos, they're helping me out tremendously! How would you secure your starter rows when installing flooring onto slab on grade/ concrete?
I’m glad I can help you, Craig! I would check with the manufacturer of the flooring to see what is possible. Different manufacturers might recommend different things.
After the new year I will be laying a nice wide maple floor in an upstairs bedroom. Believe it or not I enjoy laying floors. Between that and painting I find it relaxing, especially when you have all the RIGHT TOOLS / EQUIPMENT.
I am just like you. I enjoy it as well. Having the right tools is key. I’m not afraid to drop money on tools if I need to. Thanks for commenting!
@@TheExcellentLaborer got that right!
Make sure it’s engineered or your going to be in for some real seasonal movement
I would like to point out that in newer construction, if 5/8 Advantech T&G subfloor is installed properly, glued and spaced at joints correctly, you dont need to run the floor perpendicular to the floor joists as the Advantech subfloor holds staples exceptionally well and has very minor deflection on new joists spaced properly and glued. Also, anything over 4"face needs glue assist and removes the need for paper. Paper now a days is used more for the installer to slide the pieces around. Advantech has good moisture sepperation qualities, and in order to glue assist or make a pattern in the floor, you need to use construction adhesive directly to subfloor and not paper.
You should know NWFA and most manufacturers recommend a glue-assist method of installing for planks 5” or more wide. For both engineered and solid.
Hi. thanks for the video. What kind of jigsaw tool is that? Does is have other attachments?
It is a Ridgid and job max. Yes you can put several different attachments on it. It is a awesome tool!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Looks like a cool tool thanks.
I am wondering if you have to leave 3/4 inch of space between the hardwood floor and the wall?
Great video, screws you used are 2" or ?
Fist video i've seen using screws, is there a reason for the screws instead of nails?
I noticed no baseboards, do you have to remove the baseboards first or can they be left in place?
I replied to this comment in the live live stream. Let me know if you seen it!
best video wonderful job bro
Cani install hardwood flooring over lamanated floor that's already on floor
Definitely not.
Great video
Looks good!
Why account for 3/4 expansion when you have nailed so frequently, the nails and screws can't move 3/4?
Great video. You know your stuff. Do you make splines or is this something you buy with the floor?
You can purchase splines from a hardwood flooring dealer. I hope that helps!
What would be the labor cost per sq feet great vid!
Whatever material cost is usually the price of labor with most construction projects. I hope that helps!
Never used underlayment under 5” wide solid hardwood. Have always nailed and glued any wider than 3 1/4”.
Can you do one for concrete?
He is a fan of prefinished because he doesn’t have to come back in and sand and stain and put polyurethane or his choice of top coats on top. Today I started installing 9 inch white oak in Balboa Island, Newport Beach, California. A good installer only needs 5% waste. I’ve never heard of 10% until the 2000s.
I had prefinished installed and what I noticed is that the boards don’t put up as tight because they’re rounded over on the edges
I think if I had it not prefinished, the boards would not be rounded off on the edges
Giving a tighter look
And again, because they’re not that pipe together that small little space I’m thinking is gonna be more susceptible for dirt to get down into
I guess it’s a trade off because if you have to finish it then there’s all the extra work you have to do
No felt paper under the wood flooring?
I was watching your video just because you're cute 😍 but I ended up learning a lot. Thanks!
What size spline/ slip tongue?
No glue needed for 5in planks ?
very well explained and good video but I have a question and how do I install it if it is a concrete floor and I want to install Hardwood Floor and if possible, how is the installation charged if it is by linial feet thank you very much
what about installing underlayer to prevent the annoying squeaking known in hardwood floor? or maybe the vapor barrier you installed will do the trick?
One thing I don’t understand…. Is how can the hardwood floor expand three-quarter inch if it’s nailed to the subfloor, which doesn’t expand?…. On a nailed floor the only way that hardwood could expand and contract is if the subfloor expanded and contracted with it.
This gentleman should be an instructor, he pays attention to details and conveys those details to the listener.
You should get you a floor jack . Makes job much easier
If you don’t have that nailer, can you use a nail gun? Like 16g maybe? Is it also possible to use screws for the whole room, with the understanding that it’s a lot more work? Love your vids. Thanks!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Hey man why add 10% to the sqfootage?
Can you give me a link for your underpayment? 2:51
New to the game. Why is the floor considered floating, and we're concerned with expansion, with thousands of nails in it?
Wood expands and contracts more tangentially to the grain than it does radially or longitudinally. What that means for hardwood flooring is that it moves more perpendicular to the long axis of the board than along it. Staples and cleats hold it to the subfloor, but they can still move a little bit. Nothing's going to get in the way of wood expanding, which is why you sometimes see people's floors pop up when they get excessively humid. It's also why you generally only see a full glue-down advised for engineered flooring, not solid hardwood. It needs to move.
A good rule of thumb is to add 1/4 inch of space from the outer wall for every unbroken 4 to 6 feet of linear flooring (either axis). Floor transitions and drywall widths provide decent gaps, but it's best to leave a little extra.
Nicely done! How much sf did you do and how long did it take you? Any recommendations on where to get affordable wood floor?
Also always nail your slip tongue in
can this type of flooring be put down on a concrete slab home?
Never mind. I see you underlayment
Hey 👋
floor joises
Great Delco accent
This is an engineering wood flooring. Why didn't you use staples?