I had exactly the same problem with my Minor some years ago. I changed the points, rotor arm and condenser, swapped the fuel pump etc. but it still wouldn't start. In the end, and out of desperation I changed the distributor cap - the engine started first time and off I went and it never played up again. The reason I didn't change the distributor cap in the first place was because it looked quite new and shiny, and I could see absolutely no signs of carbon tracking inside, but obviously it WAS faulty so I suggest you give that a try if it still plays up.
As for the fault in the dizzy, it perhaps is heat related? With an "over powered" coil the condensor especially will get hotter as it is driven and at some point that will likely degrade it to the point where it will cause a fault until it cools down again?
I suspect it could be a condenser failure when it gets hotter, the fault developed a lot sooner this time than when I was brought home on the truck though. It would be good to get her running on points again at some point.
@@isobelfox629Had yo use the subs here as voice much to quiet. Even with electronic ignition a standard 3 ohm coil is fine, especially with a standard low spec engine, which the A series is. No condenser with EI. Modern repro condensers are very hit and miss. Modern points not much better. Remember to lightly grease the cam. Try and find original Lucas ones. The old ones in your original dizzys are probably fine. With points and with the ignition on flick the closed points apart. There should be no or just a tiny spark across the points. If there is a big splashy spark then the condenser is almost certainly bad. Good luck. Drive safe.
Great job with your car👍
Thank you!
I had exactly the same problem with my Minor some years ago. I changed the points, rotor arm and condenser, swapped the fuel pump etc. but it still wouldn't start. In the end, and out of desperation I changed the distributor cap - the engine started first time and off I went and it never played up again. The reason I didn't change the distributor cap in the first place was because it looked quite new and shiny, and I could see absolutely no signs of carbon tracking inside, but obviously it WAS faulty so I suggest you give that a try if it still plays up.
Thankyou, I think I have narrowed it down to the condenser, but I am carrying a spare of everything now to make it easier if it happens again !
At least with 66 year old mechanicals there is logic to it and you don't need a degree in computing to work it out.
Glad she is back on the road. 😎
As for the fault in the dizzy, it perhaps is heat related? With an "over powered" coil the condensor especially will get hotter as it is driven and at some point that will likely degrade it to the point where it will cause a fault until it cools down again?
I suspect it could be a condenser failure when it gets hotter, the fault developed a lot sooner this time than when I was brought home on the truck though. It would be good to get her running on points again at some point.
@@isobelfox629Had yo use the subs here as voice much to quiet.
Even with electronic ignition a standard 3 ohm coil is fine, especially with a standard low spec engine, which the A series is. No condenser with EI. Modern repro condensers are very hit and miss. Modern points not much better. Remember to lightly grease the cam. Try and find original Lucas ones. The old ones in your original dizzys are probably fine. With points and with the ignition on flick the closed points apart. There should be no or just a tiny spark across the points. If there is a big splashy spark then the condenser is almost certainly bad. Good luck. Drive safe.
You can sit cross-legged! Okay, the car stuff is impressive, but that's my takeaway from this video. :)
It's one of my few superpowers, that and sneezing when I eat polo's :)