This is awesome! God I wish I had friends like this… Maybe I need to live out of Colorado so I can have some cool friends that do cool stuff like I like to do. I’ve always lived that body style, I’ve had several of them over the years, had a few high boy trucks, a ‘73, a ‘79, had a ‘79 bronco, the flat bed I used on my first gen dodge came off a ‘72 that was perfect, not a spot anywhere of rust. Things here in Colorado don’t rust and rot away, the older trucks from the 70’s are still pretty solid here! Colorado don’t use salt. Heck it hardly even snows anymore especially in the western slope in grand junction. I’ve had a whole slew of first gen dodge 12v’s over the years, like 6 of them. I did a 12v swap in my buddies 1 ton suburban lifted 12” on 40” swampie boogers years back. Was a fun project, I’d love to do another one or a fummins swap. It’s amazing how much just a little bit bigger injectors will wake it up hub?! It’s just a vicious cycle of more air more fuel, more air more fuel. A real easy upgrade for the turbski is to get a waste gated hx35 off a 24v second gen, a vp44 24v and redo your exhaust! You’re running the stock 3” exhaust, that ain’t enough! Get one of them flo pro 5” straight back kits! There cheap! Like $300 bucks for 5”, I think depending on how much room you got you can get a 4-5” hx35 or hx40 style down pipe in there and then it’s basically straight back and over the axle in the dodges, you can do the same thing on the ford. I noticed you had a steed speed manifold, you could play around with different manifold and get the turbo down lower like on a 3rd gen manifold if there’s down pipe clearance issues for a 5” down pipe. Use a dodge first gen or second gen Flo pro or diamond eye kit, aluminized so it don’t rust (as easily) where ever you are, or spend the extra for a full stainless steel exhaust. Again The aluminized Flo pro or diamond eye 5” straight pipe exhaust kits for a 2nd or 3rd gen are dirt cheap cheap. So cheap in fact when I redid my turbo I used a different style hx40 down pipe and instead of walking everything off and welding it up to me relatively new exhaust, I just ordered another new one so it was a clean clean install and not welded hacked up and pieced together. A 5” will really give it a deeper sound and lower the egts. 3” is just to small! Most people always go with the 4”, but go big or go home! Get them hot exhaust gasses out as quick as they can and as free flowing as possible! Bigger gives a real low deep throaty deep sound and you get that high pitched hx35/hx40 hybrid turbo jet turbine whistle with the deep low exhaust note. Yeah the 3” stockie exhaust isn’t gunna cut it, it’s a choke point, and so is that stock turbo, I couldn’t tell if it was an earlier Wh1C or an hy35 depends on what truck and year you pulled that motor from and If it was an automatic transmission. You wanna find a hx35w from a second 24v with a manual transmission! Or the budget build idea is to find/ make an hx40 hybrid! Which is one half hx35 and one half hx40! Another option with a itty bit of modification is find a 3rd gen 24v Holset he351, that would be another good option! For spooling on a budget! Them hx35/hx40’s and the 3rd gen holset he351’s They are everywhere and dirt cheap. That’ll really wake it up as far as air flow and boost goes! You’re defiantly gunna want to upgrade your intercooler boots and intercooler clamps or you’ll be blowing boots off! I’d get some nice thick silicone mishimoto boots and stainless steel spring loaded clamps! Mishimoto makes decently priced high quality well made kits that’ll work for ya! Maybe even redesign your whole piping set up and start with some stainless steel bends and angles and maybe rework that, or looks fairly simple tho how you have the intercooler turned upside down. We didn’t think of doing that when we did my buddies 1 ton suburban 12 valve swap! lol doah. Remember, more air, more fuel, more fuel, more boost, more boost, higher pressures. A 24v HX35w or an he351 is gunna very easily be capable of 30-35 psi depending on where the waste gate is set at and how your pump is fueling. You said you had a 0 fuel plate. Bigger delivery valves, 3200 or 4k gov springs and all the little internal pump upgrades plus a timing advance will really wake it up! You throw a little bit of timing advance at it and holy cow! You just woke up a sleeping demon! Head studs will be a good idea! On a 12v they are super super easy!!! You’ll have to mod or get different rocker pedestals if I remember. Industrial injection has stock oem rocker pedestals that have had .200” machined off the rocker pedestals. Like $30-$40 each or something. Xoric performance has brand new rocker pedistals that have the nessicsrly clearances for arp head studs already machined into them, there like $179 for all 6. I’ve read people not having to machine the head rocker peds and simple grinding out the insides of the bale covers and removing the webbing inside, aftermarket billet alumn valve covers may not have any issues? I know BD diesel makes cool looking finned 12v covers, maybe they have the needed clearance worked into the design. If the head gasket ain’t been leaking, I’d do the head studs one at a time, no need to lift the head off unless you really want to or want to Oring the head and do some port and polishing. If your gunna go that far I’d Oring the head and have a mild port/ polish done if you can live with some down time for machine shop to work their magic. A o ringed head is cheap insurance and leaves you a lot of room to grow as far as up grades with out fear of lifting the head and blowing head gaskets, arp head studs are cheap insurance themselves. Well they really ain’t cheap, $500 for some bolts ain’t cheap! But it’s insurance against more costly repairs! That company Xotic performance makes a arp equivalent head stud that’s quite a bit cheaper, same quality, same materials, same hardness everything, but they are like less than $300 bucks vs >$500 for arp2000’s or a rediclious >$1000 for ARP 625’s. I’m sorry a $1000 bucks for some bolts is stupid, what makes them so special that they need to charge a $1000?! lol.
Holy smokes. You are like an encyclopedia for Cummins swaps. 😂 thank you for all of the info! A new turbo, studs, exhaust, pump timing, delivery valves etc etc is all in the future for Justin. He just got the truck done not too long ago since he really wanted to drive it this summer.
This is awesome! God I wish I had friends like this…
Maybe I need to live out of Colorado so I can have some cool friends that do cool stuff like I like to do.
I’ve always lived that body style, I’ve had several of them over the years, had a few high boy trucks, a ‘73, a ‘79, had a ‘79 bronco, the flat bed I used on my first gen dodge came off a ‘72 that was perfect, not a spot anywhere of rust. Things here in Colorado don’t rust and rot away, the older trucks from the 70’s are still pretty solid here! Colorado don’t use salt. Heck it hardly even snows anymore especially in the western slope in grand junction.
I’ve had a whole slew of first gen dodge 12v’s over the years, like 6 of them. I did a 12v swap in my buddies 1 ton suburban lifted 12” on 40” swampie boogers years back. Was a fun project, I’d love to do another one or a fummins swap.
It’s amazing how much just a little bit bigger injectors will wake it up hub?! It’s just a vicious cycle of more air more fuel, more air more fuel.
A real easy upgrade for the turbski is to get a waste gated hx35 off a 24v second gen, a vp44 24v and redo your exhaust! You’re running the stock 3” exhaust, that ain’t enough! Get one of them flo pro 5” straight back kits! There cheap! Like $300 bucks for 5”, I think depending on how much room you got you can get a 4-5” hx35 or hx40 style down pipe in there and then it’s basically straight back and over the axle in the dodges, you can do the same thing on the ford. I noticed you had a steed speed manifold, you could play around with different manifold and get the turbo down lower like on a 3rd gen manifold if there’s down pipe clearance issues for a 5” down pipe. Use a dodge first gen or second gen Flo pro or diamond eye kit, aluminized so it don’t rust (as easily) where ever you are, or spend the extra for a full stainless steel exhaust. Again The aluminized Flo pro or diamond eye 5” straight pipe exhaust kits for a 2nd or 3rd gen are dirt cheap cheap. So cheap in fact when I redid my turbo I used a different style hx40 down pipe and instead of walking everything off and welding it up to me relatively new exhaust, I just ordered another new one so it was a clean clean install and not welded hacked up and pieced together. A 5” will really give it a deeper sound and lower the egts. 3” is just to small! Most people always go with the 4”, but go big or go home! Get them hot exhaust gasses out as quick as they can and as free flowing as possible! Bigger gives a real low deep throaty deep sound and you get that high pitched hx35/hx40 hybrid turbo jet turbine whistle with the deep low exhaust note. Yeah the 3” stockie exhaust isn’t gunna cut it, it’s a choke point, and so is that stock turbo, I couldn’t tell if it was an earlier Wh1C or an hy35 depends on what truck and year you pulled that motor from and If it was an automatic transmission. You wanna find a hx35w from a second 24v with a manual transmission! Or the budget build idea is to find/ make an hx40 hybrid! Which is one half hx35 and one half hx40! Another option with a itty bit of modification is find a 3rd gen 24v Holset he351, that would be another good option! For spooling on a budget! Them hx35/hx40’s and the 3rd gen holset he351’s They are everywhere and dirt cheap. That’ll really wake it up as far as air flow and boost goes! You’re defiantly gunna want to upgrade your intercooler boots and intercooler clamps or you’ll be blowing boots off! I’d get some nice thick silicone mishimoto boots and stainless steel spring loaded clamps! Mishimoto makes decently priced high quality well made kits that’ll work for ya! Maybe even redesign your whole piping set up and start with some stainless steel bends and angles and maybe rework that, or looks fairly simple tho how you have the intercooler turned upside down. We didn’t think of doing that when we did my buddies 1 ton suburban 12 valve swap! lol doah.
Remember, more air, more fuel, more fuel, more boost, more boost, higher pressures. A 24v HX35w or an he351 is gunna very easily be capable of 30-35 psi depending on where the waste gate is set at and how your pump is fueling. You said you had a 0 fuel plate. Bigger delivery valves, 3200 or 4k gov springs and all the little internal pump upgrades plus a timing advance will really wake it up! You throw a little bit of timing advance at it and holy cow! You just woke up a sleeping demon!
Head studs will be a good idea! On a 12v they are super super easy!!! You’ll have to mod or get different rocker pedestals if I remember. Industrial injection has stock oem rocker pedestals that have had .200” machined off the rocker pedestals. Like $30-$40 each or something. Xoric performance has brand new rocker pedistals that have the nessicsrly clearances for arp head studs already machined into them, there like $179 for all 6.
I’ve read people not having to machine the head rocker peds and simple grinding out the insides of the bale covers and removing the webbing inside, aftermarket billet alumn valve covers may not have any issues? I know BD diesel makes cool looking finned 12v covers, maybe they have the needed clearance worked into the design.
If the head gasket ain’t been leaking, I’d do the head studs one at a time, no need to lift the head off unless you really want to or want to Oring the head and do some port and polishing. If your gunna go that far I’d Oring the head and have a mild port/ polish done if you can live with some down time for machine shop to work their magic. A o ringed head is cheap insurance and leaves you a lot of room to grow as far as up grades with out fear of lifting the head and blowing head gaskets, arp head studs are cheap insurance themselves. Well they really ain’t cheap, $500 for some bolts ain’t cheap! But it’s insurance against more costly repairs! That company Xotic performance makes a arp equivalent head stud that’s quite a bit cheaper, same quality, same materials, same hardness everything, but they are like less than $300 bucks vs >$500 for arp2000’s or a rediclious >$1000 for ARP 625’s. I’m sorry a $1000 bucks for some bolts is stupid, what makes them so special that they need to charge a $1000?! lol.
Holy smokes. You are like an encyclopedia for Cummins swaps. 😂 thank you for all of the info!
A new turbo, studs, exhaust, pump timing, delivery valves etc etc is all in the future for Justin. He just got the truck done not too long ago since he really wanted to drive it this summer.
This is badass