My hat’s off to you Waldo, for setting up new diff gears while lying on the ground. Talk about a test of patience! I think your mileage should be pretty good with the Cummins running at 2100 at highway speed. Keep up the great videos. 👍
Thank you, Greg! Yeah, it's rough doing precise work like this (that needs to be clean) on a loose sandy/dirt surface. For my own sanity, I need to come up with a solution 😂
I would recommend buying a set of bearing that is from the same manufacturers as your kit. Measure the bearings to make sure they are the same. Take one set of bearings and enlarge the bore so they slide on and off the gears. You can use these enlarged bore bearings to find how many shims are needed and easily pull the bearings on and off as need. When you get the correct amount of shims, lash and mating pattern then install the other bearing set for final assembly
I saw this technique used in another youtube video, LOL. It seems like it would not only save time but it also potentially prevents problems associated with removing and reinstalling press fit bearings. I have more time on my hands now a days and I want to build an off road vehicle or several. I don't have much experience with drive lines but I am learning a lot here.
I made them years ago for stuff I worked on by just holding the bearings by hand and using a small rotary Stone or sanding drum in a die grinder only taking a few thousands off till it became a slip fit
Awesome, Waldo! You’re the very embodiment of the need for right-to-repair. With extra credit for doing it while lying under the vehicle on a first/straw/soil floor. Keep on truckin’!
The thing about this truck is that typically it’s harder than it looks to get that simplicity of minimal design while doing quite a bit of work, but you’ve nailed it. Great looking ride that people must take seriously.
Dude your doing a fantastic job at this whole thing, I’m a professional technician and I tip my hat to your quality of work sir, amazing video on diff work and that’s hard enough by itself
You're an inspiration dude. Thank you for being so thorough with your explanations. A lot of guys on TH-cam use videos like these to vent a little or tell you some long winded story about life... Really appreciate it!
One of the best channels on TH-cam, I like your editing style and just the way you do videos in general. Nothing over the top, don't take yourself too serious, not flashy. Wish you the best!
I have the Dodge NV4500 in my 87 Squarebody along with a 1997 Cummins P-pump 12 valve with 3K governor springs and compound turbos, I had 4.10 rear ratio and I only got to 73mph with it going down hill and now I can easily go past 100+ mph with the 3.21 ratio I put in my full floating corporate 14 bolt
If you have access from the hitch on the bed. Place a hose from the hitch down to the fill hole put a funnel in the hose and fill from the top. Use the prescribed amount knowing it is empty. You then fine tune the level from there. It's just easier than doing it from the ground.
I remember an old timer teaching me how to set up a diff on a 90s C2500 in the oilfields. We took the diff out of the truck with a fork lift and basically did it in the dirt. Good times.
Diesel mechanic here, we were always taught that peak mechanical efficiency was at peak torque rpm, so if you have the power to run highway speeds at peak torque rpm, that should get you close to max cruise rpm. Also, don't be too sad about your lack of overdrive, having high gear be direct drive gives you around 4% better efficiency, vs. overdrive. That's an average, the bigger/beefier the transmission, the more difference it makes. Thanks for all the great videos. How did I never notice your sick diamond tuck headliner before? Hah.
I had a early 90s F450 superduty with 5.29s and ZF5 transmission. It was the same way even with overdrive. The 7.3 IDI was screaming at 65mph. But it was almost impossible to stall and would pull almost anything you put behind it.
I had the same setup in a truck and had to sell it out of state because ,California. I delivered it out of state and that was the longest most tedious 500 mile trip I ever took. Screaming up I 5 being passed by semi trucks.
Good job. A little old timer tip, when installing the cover, or pretty much any cover, some all thread in a few spots makes it cake to line up every time, especially in a fiddley spot like that. Run in the other bolts then pull out the all thread and finish. Works even better when lining up a gasket at the same time.
There's a truck just like that one, but a 1994 right down the road from me. Single cab, no bed, same mirrors for $1800. I also know where there's a 5.9 with an Eaton 5 speed already attached. The temptation to pull the trigger and bite the bullet is overwhelmed! Cool truck, BTW.
Eaton Trutracs are wonderful. While not a locker, they're a big improvement over open diffs. Quiet, strong and maintenance and uses plain old 80W90 with no extra additives.
So....this got just randomly recommended to me on my front page. Two things, this video is fucking awesome man, your truck is sweet and your video was extremely interesting to watch, I think I'll go through and watch the entire build now. Secondly, I just about choked on my drink when I saw you merging on to the highway from my hometown, for one reason or another I didn't even recognize the area in your first clip in the beginning of the video so it didn't dawn on me until the end of the video. I was born and raised in that town and lived there for over 20 years. Pretty insane to just randomly stumble upon your channel like this out of the blue, not only a rad truck and build but also someone living in my former stomping grounds with such a rad truck. Keep up the great content man
A few observations here... 1) I have no idea how you stayed so clean doing this gear swap on a dirt floor! 2) No one NO ONE waits on RTV to cure before adding oil...I honestly think you will get in trouble if you do. 3) I have found that 2,200 RPM @ 65 MPH is pretty much the perfect zone for towing with a 5.9L Cummins. Dude, I like what you have going here! Keep up the good work!
1: 13 years in field service, it’s possible. 2: you do if you offer a warranty. I wait for it to cure on my personal vehicles as well, not just customer trucks and buses. 3: depending on year (2003 common rail had a bump up) your numbers are basically 235 HP at 2700 RPM and 460 lb-ft at 1600 RPM so 65 at 2200 is relatively decent. With the NV5600 we usually hit 70 at 2200. He definitely did his homework. I kinda wish it would have been an industrial instead of a Dodge donor as you can do a lot more with the rotating assembly and tuning with the Cummins Insite software. Chrysler did a lot of restrictions on access for the engine batches sold for their use which is why some of us won’t support the Cummins in that platform.
@@WaldosWorld I was born in Manchester. You must live fairly close to where the old gentleman River Dave built his cabin on the Merimack that was recently burned down. A sad story that just doesn't fit the Live Free or Die state.
Great work here on this rear end.. I also don't have a lift and do these jobs on jack stands.. I really like how you built thus truck..it will be a tow rig for many years to come..great truck
Now you need an exhaust brake on the Cummins.. You will enjoy the extra braking control while descending a hill or stopping a trailer load.. You can do the install yourself.. My wife and I did mine..
I put my ring gear in a toaster oven and differential in shop freezer... 12:10, put a piece of hose on the spout, and prop the bottle upside down against the gas tank...
Great choice in gearing. With all the torque that Cummins produces, you're way better off using a higher gear ratio. It'll help a lot too on your fuel mileage. Great video Waldo!! 👌
I would be wary using the pinion bearings to press in the race, but if it works, it works! I am no axle rebuilder master, but I did it once in a Crown Victoria installing used junkyard 3.55 gears and a limited slip replacing the factory open differential with 2.73 gears. Didn't have the appropriate torque wrench to check proper preload on the pinion but I must have got it good enough, totally quiet, as I did use a new crush washer and did tighten it by hand to crush the crush sleeve. One of my friends did the same thing reusing the factory crush sleeve and his pinion bearings wore out - my job was moar better :D
Man, that truck is mint. The interior is sickeningly clean! I'm loving that pleated headliner bit and I just wanna say that your camera work is outstanding.
These Dana axles were installed on Landrovers way back to the series 2A (or rather a rover licence version) The British Army REME - Royal electrical and mechanical engineers...the ones who looked after the vehicles, weapons and other stuff, had a huge jig for training purposes which they lifted the whole axle onto and it fixed into those same two holes and pulled the diff pan apart to allow fitting. (little bit of history).
Just found you, watched the q&a episode. Anyone willing to quit a good job, leave California, move into the country, buy a bunch of tools and start using his hands for a living all because his conservative values, gets my subscription!
Most informative auto channel on TH-cam from start to completion of project. With through explanations of each step along the way. Job well done Waldo. Looking forward to the bass expedition 🎣
Hey, get a case of PB Blaster, shoot up the nuts/bolts you're gonna work on the day before. You will be AMAZED at the difference it makes. I'd also have used the impact (or a smaller one) to remove that pinion yoke. See, I'm lazy.
I am amazed that you have the patience and fortitude to do all of that work, yet you have not gotten around to straightening the steering wheel yet. EDIT: nevermind, I just got to the point in the video where you directly address that issue. Lol. Good work!
You win the award for "Best use of Anvil Chorus". I think Verdi would agree. (Although I don't think they had differentials as such in the 19th century.)
If you disassemble the gear set you removed. The shims installed on it usually get you REAL close to final setup. You could’ve saved some headache. You can also sand or grind the inside of the old bearings to make “set up” bearings
You can use the old bearings, sand the ID a bit to open them up and use them as setup bearings and not worry about pressing new bearings on and off while messing with shims.
Taking off the half axles was so easy!!! The first diff job i tried to do was in a ae86 toyota diff. Thing doesn't have a cover, so i needed to open it up to see how the pinions were. I figured it out that i needed to take out the axles first, the removal procedure consist in smack them to death, then replace them as the damage done will make them unusable. End up quitting as the customer didn't want to spend extra on rebuilding the diff. PD: awesome work tho, i haven't had the opportunity to work on a diff as every living car here is a transaxle.
This video was in my recommended section and im not disappointed! Great video all around and for the quality I was surprised to see you have only 33k subscribers you definitely deserve more. Keep it up!
Awesome Waldo. You're lucky getting it first shot. The dana axles usually have a +/-(#) from theoretical center that you can use that with the factory shim pack to make a pretty good guess on pinion depth. If you do this often a clamshell bearing puller from ebay for 250 is a life saver. Your speedo is way off on the dash. With your background i would love to see you explain how to setup a Dakota digital speedo calibration box. Good work.
Thank you! Yeah, I did get lucky! I'm exploring options for getting the speedo right. I did reach out to a company for a possible sponsorship, though I may just go the computer engineering route and make my own converter 😂
Do they not make a drive gear to reset the speedometer for that transmission anymore? Chevy Kodiak/GMC Top Kick had a 3116 or 3126 Caterpillar engine, Eaton Synchro 5 or Synchro 6 transmission and used the same dashboard and speedometer drive. GMT530 trucks used GMT400 cabs but the speedometer gears used to be swappable thanks to the variety of medium duty transmissions.
Waldo, just a heads up on those aftermarket diff covers ! Some are not the best choice . There is a good series on them put out by Gail Banks. You should watch if you have time. That was a great jump by Aspen ! My Dachshund Otis can jump jump just like that, up to 3 inches !!😂🌵
Yea aftermarket covers aren’t worth it. Stick with an oem cover. All tough that cover does look like it’s mimics the oem style and shape so it might be fine.
Thanks for the tip! I think I've seen that video and the issue was mainly with square-ish covers that prevent oil flow. This cover is pretty round on the back, perhaps even more so than the OEM cover, so I think it'll be fine 👍
All that power.. all that engine.. all that fuel.. and in the uk we have huge longwheelbase 2.0 liter vans.. that will do a hundred.. and about 35 mpg..
when i do this, i buy two sets of bearing sets. i hone the centers out enough that they are snug on the pinion but will come off without the puller. once i am set up the way i want it, i replace them with the final bearings and re check. as far as mpg, i am thinking around 10-12 range.
Waldo this was a very interesting video. I am really looking forward to the finish coating on the new bed. Every Motörhead in the world is going to want this truck!!
Your choice of music when removing the pinion gear made me LMAO!!! Great Video, very informative, what a PITA! I like to put the race's in the deep freeze over night to make them shrink up a bit and a little easier to install.
When reassembling the carrier and pinion, try starting with your original shim packs and check it. There is a good chance your original shims will be close enough and may prevent you from having to remove it to make adjustments. Also don't use the bearings on the pinion to pull the race into the housing, find a proper driver that pushes on the outer lip of the race. You could possibly overload the bearings and damage (chip or crack) them and or put flat spots on them. It might not show up for several miles, but could cause premature failure.
Some people will use two sets of bearings when setting up. One is relieved internally so it will slide on and off without much resistance. That one gets tossed at the end and the other bearing used for final set up
Could be the diff he put in oil recommendation, some time limited slips are different from what the factory would call out and you should follow the new spec given.
Thanks! GM (and Eaton, the manufacturer of the diff) both recommend 80W-90. GM lists 75W-140 as an option with a significantly longer drain interval though
This is the first video of yours I see. I get a very clear (and good) reminiscence of Toms Turbo Garage. You have good angles, a clear and well-pronouced voice together with good audio and picture. Subbed!
You need to make a Waldo's World channel shirt that says "Click Click". I'd buy 2 lol. Love the build. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
![Fixing Steering Slop and Doing a Front Wheel Alignment [Cummins Swap Part 27]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WcrMMHcXI0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![Fixing Steering Slop and Doing a Front Wheel Alignment [Cummins Swap Part 27]](/img/tr.png)
![Cummins Swap First Start! Plus Wiring a Computer-Controlled Engine [Part 17]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4HCYn0thibw/mqdefault.jpg)
My hat’s off to you Waldo, for setting up new diff gears while lying on the ground. Talk about a test of patience! I think your mileage should be pretty good with the Cummins running at 2100 at highway speed. Keep up the great videos. 👍
Thank you, Greg! Yeah, it's rough doing precise work like this (that needs to be clean) on a loose sandy/dirt surface. For my own sanity, I need to come up with a solution 😂
@@WaldosWorld: Check out TH-cam channel run by Bus Grease Monkey... He has done exactly that, and put up a pre-fab Quonset hut for shelter.
mileage went from 5 to 8
@@WaldosWorld pour a cement slab to start and maybe put up a very tall pole barn/car port and eventually get a bendpak lift lol
@@WaldosWorld Round rock and perforated rubber mats
This has quickly become one of my favorite builds on TH-cam. 👍
Thank you, I'm really glad to hear that!
Although I am not a fan of the seats.
I would recommend buying a set of bearing that is from the same manufacturers as your kit. Measure the bearings to make sure they are the same. Take one set of bearings and enlarge the bore so they slide on and off the gears. You can use these enlarged bore bearings to find how many shims are needed and easily pull the bearings on and off as need. When you get the correct amount of shims, lash and mating pattern then install the other bearing set for final assembly
I saw this technique used in another youtube video, LOL. It seems like it would not only save time but it also potentially prevents problems associated with removing and reinstalling press fit bearings. I have more time on my hands now a days and I want to build an off road vehicle or several. I don't have much experience with drive lines but I am learning a lot here.
This is the way
Set up bearings all day!
I made them years ago for stuff I worked on by just holding the bearings by hand and using a small rotary Stone or sanding drum in a die grinder only taking a few thousands off till it became a slip fit
That’s what I did
Awesome, Waldo! You’re the very embodiment of the need for right-to-repair. With extra credit for doing it while lying under the vehicle on a first/straw/soil floor. Keep on truckin’!
The thing about this truck is that typically it’s harder than it looks to get that simplicity of minimal design while doing quite a bit of work, but you’ve nailed it. Great looking ride that people must take seriously.
Took me forever to find this guy…really enjoying this project so far
Thanks, I'm glad to hear it!
Can't tell if that was a pun or genuine
I love how knowledgeable and caring this guy is with everything he does. Like the flatbed and the gooseneck.
Dude your doing a fantastic job at this whole thing, I’m a professional technician and I tip my hat to your quality of work sir, amazing video on diff work and that’s hard enough by itself
Thank you!
You're an inspiration dude. Thank you for being so thorough with your explanations. A lot of guys on TH-cam use videos like these to vent a little or tell you some long winded story about life... Really appreciate it!
Thank you very much!
Agreed!!
One of the best channels on TH-cam, I like your editing style and just the way you do videos in general. Nothing over the top, don't take yourself too serious, not flashy. Wish you the best!
Thank you so much! I appreciate the feedback! 👍
I have the Dodge NV4500 in my 87 Squarebody along with a 1997 Cummins P-pump 12 valve with 3K governor springs and compound turbos, I had 4.10 rear ratio and I only got to 73mph with it going down hill and now I can easily go past 100+ mph with the 3.21 ratio I put in my full floating corporate 14 bolt
Did you do the gearset swap yourself or farm it out?
I love how at 6:52 you're hitting the hammer in tempo with the music lol
What's the name of the song?
@@georgenjoroge2318 I think it’s somewhere in YT’s stock library :/ not sure exact name
If you have access from the hitch on the bed. Place a hose from the hitch down to the fill hole put a funnel in the hose and fill from the top. Use the prescribed amount knowing it is empty. You then fine tune the level from there. It's just easier than doing it from the ground.
I remember an old timer teaching me how to set up a diff on a 90s C2500 in the oilfields. We took the diff out of the truck with a fork lift and basically did it in the dirt. Good times.
I really like the fact that you explain everything so well. I never feel as though you lost me at any point.
Diesel mechanic here, we were always taught that peak mechanical efficiency was at peak torque rpm, so if you have the power to run highway speeds at peak torque rpm, that should get you close to max cruise rpm. Also, don't be too sad about your lack of overdrive, having high gear be direct drive gives you around 4% better efficiency, vs. overdrive. That's an average, the bigger/beefier the transmission, the more difference it makes. Thanks for all the great videos. How did I never notice your sick diamond tuck headliner before? Hah.
You can do about anything!!!! I've had to rebuild a couple of rear axles because of bearing failures, and it's quite a job!
I had a early 90s F450 superduty with 5.29s and ZF5 transmission. It was the same way even with overdrive. The 7.3 IDI was screaming at 65mph. But it was almost impossible to stall and would pull almost anything you put behind it.
I had the same setup in a truck and had to sell it out of state because ,California. I delivered it out of state and that was the longest most tedious 500 mile trip I ever took. Screaming up I 5 being passed by semi trucks.
I have that now on my 93 superduty rollback 5.13 3000 @70mph
I had a 1990 Fsuperduty with the same setup. It was a beast but you didn’t get anywhere fast.
Good job. A little old timer tip, when installing the cover, or pretty much any cover, some all thread in a few spots makes it cake to line up every time, especially in a fiddley spot like that. Run in the other bolts then pull out the all thread and finish. Works even better when lining up a gasket at the same time.
Thank you!
all thread = threaded rod
The thing I love about the Eaton true trac is that it’s a mechanical locker that drives fairly normal, AND you can just use regular gear oil with it.
I only found the channel recently but it’s the best car channel on TH-cam if you want to learn instead of just watch mindlessly
Thank you so much!
There's a truck just like that one, but a 1994 right down the road from me. Single cab, no bed, same mirrors for $1800. I also know where there's a 5.9 with an Eaton 5 speed already attached. The temptation to pull the trigger and bite the bullet is overwhelmed! Cool truck, BTW.
Eaton Trutracs are wonderful. While not a locker, they're a big improvement over open diffs. Quiet, strong and maintenance and uses plain old 80W90 with no extra additives.
So....this got just randomly recommended to me on my front page. Two things, this video is fucking awesome man, your truck is sweet and your video was extremely interesting to watch, I think I'll go through and watch the entire build now. Secondly, I just about choked on my drink when I saw you merging on to the highway from my hometown, for one reason or another I didn't even recognize the area in your first clip in the beginning of the video so it didn't dawn on me until the end of the video. I was born and raised in that town and lived there for over 20 years. Pretty insane to just randomly stumble upon your channel like this out of the blue, not only a rad truck and build but also someone living in my former stomping grounds with such a rad truck. Keep up the great content man
Wow, thank you so much! It's a small world sometimes 👍
this is genuinely a great series
please post more often btw the editing is on point
Thank you! My goal is certainly to get videos out more often, but these things take a lot of time!
@@WaldosWorld
What is your cruising MPG with the gear change?
Clicked on your video because i was curious about truck repair
Stayed because of the easy to watch content, i learned a lot and the dog.
Thank you and welcome! 🤠
@@WaldosWorld I'm actually going through your whole series on the truck!
A few observations here... 1) I have no idea how you stayed so clean doing this gear swap on a dirt floor! 2) No one NO ONE waits on RTV to cure before adding oil...I honestly think you will get in trouble if you do. 3) I have found that 2,200 RPM @ 65 MPH is pretty much the perfect zone for towing with a 5.9L Cummins.
Dude, I like what you have going here! Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
1: 13 years in field service, it’s possible.
2: you do if you offer a warranty. I wait for it to cure on my personal vehicles as well, not just customer trucks and buses.
3: depending on year (2003 common rail had a bump up) your numbers are basically 235 HP at 2700 RPM and 460 lb-ft at 1600 RPM so 65 at 2200 is relatively decent. With the NV5600 we usually hit 70 at 2200. He definitely did his homework.
I kinda wish it would have been an industrial instead of a Dodge donor as you can do a lot more with the rotating assembly and tuning with the Cummins Insite software. Chrysler did a lot of restrictions on access for the engine batches sold for their use which is why some of us won’t support the Cummins in that platform.
Another great vid!! I lived in that part of NH for 8 years and I'm familiar with the highway you did your test run on. Brings back very fond memories!
Thank you! It's a nice part of the state 😎
@@WaldosWorld I was born in Manchester. You must live fairly close to where the old gentleman River Dave built his cabin on the Merimack that was recently burned down. A sad story that just doesn't fit the Live Free or Die state.
Great work here on this rear end.. I also don't have a lift and do these jobs on jack stands.. I really like how you built thus truck..it will be a tow rig for many years to come..great truck
Waldo, you are one intelligent, articulate, capable, experienced, and handsome young man. Not to mention an awesome youtuber.
the music during pinion shaft removal was spot on!!!
That music timing when knocking out the middle part is amazing
Hyped for this build. Can't wait till you button this up with painting the bed and finishing up the interior work.
I still cannot believe how clean this truck is!
That truck is super cool. It's a one-ton that looks about as big as modern half-tons, but I like the styling on the GMC better than any modern truck.
Now you need an exhaust brake on the Cummins.. You will enjoy the extra braking control while descending a hill or stopping a trailer load.. You can do the install yourself.. My wife and I did mine..
I do have one, though it's not fully installed yet 👍
I put my ring gear in a toaster oven and differential in shop freezer...
12:10, put a piece of hose on the spout, and prop the bottle upside down against the gas tank...
Great choice in gearing. With all the torque that Cummins produces, you're way better off using a higher gear ratio. It'll help a lot too on your fuel mileage. Great video Waldo!! 👌
Thank you! Another think I noticed is that the ratios just seem to feel better driving around town too 👍
Verdi's "Il trovatore" and differential work on an US diesel truck. Interesting mixture! ;-)
No matter what....that diamond tuck headliner has my vote 👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏
I would be wary using the pinion bearings to press in the race, but if it works, it works! I am no axle rebuilder master, but I did it once in a Crown Victoria installing used junkyard 3.55 gears and a limited slip replacing the factory open differential with 2.73 gears. Didn't have the appropriate torque wrench to check proper preload on the pinion but I must have got it good enough, totally quiet, as I did use a new crush washer and did tighten it by hand to crush the crush sleeve. One of my friends did the same thing reusing the factory crush sleeve and his pinion bearings wore out - my job was moar better :D
Yeah, it was a little sketchy, but I didn't have a big enough bearing/race driver 😂
Man, that truck is mint. The interior is sickeningly clean! I'm loving that pleated headliner bit and I just wanna say that your camera work is outstanding.
Thank you very much!
The hammering bit around 7 minutes had me laughing... out loud.. at work.
These Dana axles were installed on Landrovers way back to the series 2A (or rather a rover licence version) The British Army REME - Royal electrical and mechanical engineers...the ones who looked after the vehicles, weapons and other stuff, had a huge jig for training purposes which they lifted the whole axle onto and it fixed into those same two holes and pulled the diff pan apart to allow fitting. (little bit of history).
Just found you, watched the q&a episode. Anyone willing to quit a good job, leave California, move into the country, buy a bunch of tools and start using his hands for a living all because his conservative values, gets my subscription!
Wow, thank you for the sub!
Most informative auto channel on TH-cam from start to completion of project. With through explanations of each step along the way. Job well done Waldo. Looking forward to the bass expedition 🎣
Such a good dog. I think somebody deserves a treat. Waldo, you don't get one until that steering wheel is straight.
Super excited to see this truck tow! I want to see how it handles a loaded goosie
I'm thinking about building a gooseneck trailer, so that should be fun 🤠
Hey, get a case of PB Blaster, shoot up the nuts/bolts you're gonna work on the day before. You will be AMAZED at the difference it makes. I'd also have used the impact (or a smaller one) to remove that pinion yoke. See, I'm lazy.
What a rig this thing keeps getting better and better kudos
Thank you!
@6:50 - Your choice of music was perfect!! 😄
That beat with the hammer was on point!
I think you need an alignment! Awesome video man
I am amazed that you have the patience and fortitude to do all of that work, yet you have not gotten around to straightening the steering wheel yet.
EDIT: nevermind, I just got to the point in the video where you directly address that issue. Lol. Good work!
Thanks! 😂
Good lord man! Your drive and patience are phenomenal! Great job!
Thank you! 🤠
Another great vid. What I find most impressive is that you do all this work yet somehow you stay clean.
You win the award for "Best use of Anvil Chorus". I think Verdi would agree. (Although I don't think they had differentials as such in the 19th century.)
Your truck looks so good with the filler pieces on the front wheel flairs. I love it.
Thank you!
If you disassemble the gear set you removed. The shims installed on it usually get you REAL close to final setup. You could’ve saved some headache.
You can also sand or grind the inside of the old bearings to make “set up” bearings
Your skills class A....communication skills as well.
Thank you!
Another youtuber i run into on my feed who is from the wonderful 603! Love the build man!
Thank you!
im hopefully gonna be buying a mid to late 80s c3500 and this build series makes me want to cummins swap it so much
Splitting maul with that music was absolute gold my man.
Great instruction. You have an engineer's mind.
Clear and concise, worthy of a sub!
Thank you so much!
You can use the old bearings, sand the ID a bit to open them up and use them as setup bearings and not worry about pressing new bearings on and off while messing with shims.
Yep, top filming again ! Gearing seems just right , and yes love fishing to ! Thankyou Waldo !
Thanks, Steve! I'm glad to hear people seem to be interested in a fishing video! 🤠
Taking off the half axles was so easy!!! The first diff job i tried to do was in a ae86 toyota diff. Thing doesn't have a cover, so i needed to open it up to see how the pinions were. I figured it out that i needed to take out the axles first, the removal procedure consist in smack them to death, then replace them as the damage done will make them unusable. End up quitting as the customer didn't want to spend extra on rebuilding the diff.
PD: awesome work tho, i haven't had the opportunity to work on a diff as every living car here is a transaxle.
This video was in my recommended section and im not disappointed! Great video all around and for the quality I was surprised to see you have only 33k subscribers you definitely deserve more. Keep it up!
Awesome Waldo. You're lucky getting it first shot. The dana axles usually have a +/-(#) from theoretical center that you can use that with the factory shim pack to make a pretty good guess on pinion depth. If you do this often a clamshell bearing puller from ebay for 250 is a life saver.
Your speedo is way off on the dash. With your background i would love to see you explain how to setup a Dakota digital speedo calibration box.
Good work.
Thank you! Yeah, I did get lucky! I'm exploring options for getting the speedo right. I did reach out to a company for a possible sponsorship, though I may just go the computer engineering route and make my own converter 😂
That would be awsome
Do they not make a drive gear to reset the speedometer for that transmission anymore? Chevy Kodiak/GMC Top Kick had a 3116 or 3126 Caterpillar engine, Eaton Synchro 5 or Synchro 6 transmission and used the same dashboard and speedometer drive. GMT530 trucks used GMT400 cabs but the speedometer gears used to be swappable thanks to the variety of medium duty transmissions.
Waldo, just a heads up on those aftermarket diff covers ! Some are not the best choice . There is a good series on them put out by Gail Banks. You should watch if you have time. That was a great jump by Aspen ! My Dachshund Otis can jump jump just like that, up to 3 inches !!😂🌵
I second this!! www. youtube. com/watch?v=7AmLbGSvESg&ab_channel=BanksPower "remove spaces of course lol."
Yea aftermarket covers aren’t worth it. Stick with an oem cover. All tough that cover does look like it’s mimics the oem style and shape so it might be fine.
That cover should be fine. It's the flat backed covers that become problematic
Thanks for the tip! I think I've seen that video and the issue was mainly with square-ish covers that prevent oil flow. This cover is pretty round on the back, perhaps even more so than the OEM cover, so I think it'll be fine 👍
That cover is perfectly fine. It's the square ones that have the issues
All that power.. all that engine.. all that fuel.. and in the uk we have huge longwheelbase 2.0 liter vans.. that will do a hundred.. and about 35 mpg..
And this will drag those vans…fully loaded….with the brakes on, and not even realize that it’s pulling something.
Thanks for put the links in the descriptions of things are a good tools
when i do this, i buy two sets of bearing sets. i hone the centers out enough that they are snug on the pinion but will come off without the puller. once i am set up the way i want it, i replace them with the final bearings and re check. as far as mpg, i am thinking around 10-12 range.
That's a good guess, although I'm hoping it'll do better 😬
I dont know how I found this channel, but man I love it! Keep the videos coming! Great work, and very educational!
I drove a 1998 dump truck like that with a 454 big block. It was slow and used a ton if gas but it hauled anything you wanted.
Waldo this was a very interesting video. I am really looking forward to the finish coating on the new bed. Every Motörhead in the world is going to want this truck!!
Thank you! 🤠
Hats off. This is exactly what I would do to a truck like this. Down to the pleated headliner.
I don't own a car or know anything about how they work. But I watched the whole thing and enjoyed it.😅
You’re doing a heck of a job man! Keep it up, I love seeing you putting love into this.. Definitely one of a kind
Thank you, Trent! 👍
The skill and patience needed to do this, is no less than a superpower.
If you port out the middle of the old bearings, you can use them as set-up bearings. Try that on your next gear swap.
Excellent tip for sure, and really, saves a fundemental ammount of time.
@@baileyhatfield4273 before Yukon made that removal press, you'd chew up bearings pulling them on and off. Set-up bearings are the only way
excellent video and explanation of the rear end components and how to correctly install everything . Awesome truck Waldo .
Thank you!
Your choice of music when removing the pinion gear made me LMAO!!! Great Video, very informative, what a PITA! I like to put the race's in the deep freeze over night to make them shrink up a bit and a little easier to install.
Music/ hammer smacks were on sync too! Shows his attention to detail!
What a job. Good work Waldo
21:08 EVERY MAN would probably say the same thing. Good job.
Omg the turbo sound is to die for...
great filming, really appreciated
When reassembling the carrier and pinion, try starting with your original shim packs and check it. There is a good chance your original shims will be close enough and may prevent you from having to remove it to make adjustments.
Also don't use the bearings on the pinion to pull the race into the housing, find a proper driver that pushes on the outer lip of the race. You could possibly overload the bearings and damage (chip or crack) them and or put flat spots on them. It might not show up for several miles, but could cause premature failure.
Some people will use two sets of bearings when setting up. One is relieved internally so it will slide on and off without much resistance. That one gets tossed at the end and the other bearing used for final set up
Well done, Waldo!
Thank you for sharing.
You are the freaking man…. Just Waldo does it all!
Dude with the gearing and torque of the diesel before you changed it I wish I would’ve seen it in a sled pulling competition
That would've been interesting for sure, though I wonder if the open diff would've been a big handicap
@@WaldosWorld even now I still thing it would do better than the other trucks
My god man, you are so smart and easy going with such complex repairs🎉.
Per the axle manufacturer 75-140w synthetic has a 25k service life in these Dana 80's.
Well done on the project
Could be the diff he put in oil recommendation, some time limited slips are different from what the factory would call out and you should follow the new spec given.
Thanks! GM (and Eaton, the manufacturer of the diff) both recommend 80W-90. GM lists 75W-140 as an option with a significantly longer drain interval though
75w-140 will also resist breakdown better than 80w-90 when used for towing or hauling use over the course of the fluid's lifetime
The magic and the sound of diesel brother
Currently binging all your videos on this build! Love this Build!
Three words - I am impressed!
This is the first video of yours I see. I get a very clear (and good) reminiscence of Toms Turbo Garage. You have good angles, a clear and well-pronouced voice together with good audio and picture. Subbed!
Thanks for the sub! 🤠
You need to make a Waldo's World channel shirt that says "Click Click". I'd buy 2 lol. Love the build. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!
Ooh, that's a good idea! 🤔