1. You only have to remove the cap, which is a 19mm socket. 2. You are supposed to screw the adjuster on the handlebars in all the way. 3. Adjust some tension on the adjuster under the tank. 4. Loosen the locknut by about half a turn, back the phillips screw out 2 turns while using the 12mm to hold the shaft. Then screw the phillips screw in, going clockwise, until you feel resistance. At this point you stop, back it out half of a turn, then tighten the locknut without disturbing your settings. If you accidentally move it, just loosen the locknut and repeat the procedure. 5. Replace the cap, making sure the seal is not damaged and there is no debris on it. 6. Adjust the tension of the cable using the under-tank adjuster, such that you have 10-15 mm of play in the clutch bar. This play should be determined from the point where the lever is fully extended (push it all the way away from the clip-on with your finger, then use a single finger to pull it back until you meet resistance. You are not trying to compress the clutch lever, thus you shouldn't be exerting any real force for this.) to the point that there is some resistance. The factory setting is 10-15mm of play, but having different levers alters this due to the change in arc length. You can still use the 10-15mm setting if you wish, but all that is required is that you set play such that you have adequate cable slack to prevent partial disengagement that will cause slippage and premature clutch wear.
Thanks rustler finally someone who knows what they are doing..... these guys post video's of what they think is the correct procedure and it drives me nut's .... you just saved my clutch ;)
...while holding the back nut, screw in the screw until it become tight then back 1/2 turn. While still holding the back nut, lock down the 2nd nut or lock nut. Replace the clutch cover cap and then adjust the clutch adjuster nut at the clutch lever until you have only 5mm of freeplay in between the lever and the perch. Your good to go!
For someone that doesn't know what they are doing, this video can be quite confusing and a person could really adjust their clutch out of wack. SO....the proper way to adjust is to just remove the clutch adjuster cap, should be a 19mm nut cap. There's no reason to remove the whole cover. Once the cap is removed, turn in the adjuster at the lever all the way in. Then hold the back nut while loosening the lock nut. Then...
can you please help meeeeeeeeee my cluch is slipping its GSXR-600 2012 and iv been told it needs adjusting like what your doing now! i that the reason why your doing this??
not really, your problem has to do with your springs. the harder the springs are the more they'll "grab" so you can put more power down but its also harder to pull in the clutch as the force is going straight to pushing against those springs
hi, i got a problem when start moving first gear, when release the clutch with 3000rmps and higher i looks like the clutch slips, with a noise like zzzzz.... and bike jumps forward, can start moving slowly only, all other gear when riding faster works perfect (1 gear is working good aswell when you release the clutch is all good, no sliping. adjustment will help?
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
1. You only have to remove the cap, which is a 19mm socket.
2. You are supposed to screw the adjuster on the handlebars in all the way.
3. Adjust some tension on the adjuster under the tank.
4. Loosen the locknut by about half a turn, back the phillips screw out 2 turns while using the 12mm to hold the shaft. Then screw the phillips screw in, going clockwise, until you feel resistance. At this point you stop, back it out half of a turn, then tighten the locknut without disturbing your settings. If you accidentally move it, just loosen the locknut and repeat the procedure.
5. Replace the cap, making sure the seal is not damaged and there is no debris on it.
6. Adjust the tension of the cable using the under-tank adjuster, such that you have 10-15 mm of play in the clutch bar. This play should be determined from the point where the lever is fully extended (push it all the way away from the clip-on with your finger, then use a single finger to pull it back until you meet resistance. You are not trying to compress the clutch lever, thus you shouldn't be exerting any real force for this.) to the point that there is some resistance.
The factory setting is 10-15mm of play, but having different levers alters this due to the change in arc length. You can still use the 10-15mm setting if you wish, but all that is required is that you set play such that you have adequate cable slack to prevent partial disengagement that will cause slippage and premature clutch wear.
Thanks rustler finally someone who knows what they are doing..... these guys post video's of what they think is the correct procedure and it drives me nut's .... you just saved my clutch ;)
Man Forgot all the negative comments. This video helped me 100% thanks fam
...while holding the back nut, screw in the screw until it become tight then back 1/2 turn. While still holding the back nut, lock down the 2nd nut or lock nut. Replace the clutch cover cap and then adjust the clutch adjuster nut at the clutch lever until you have only 5mm of freeplay in between the lever and the perch. Your good to go!
Dropping a wrench, fumbling around, this is anannoying video
Man I almost threw up from seasickness
Brennen Giese 😂😂same
Good video man. Thanks for it. It's EJ
For someone that doesn't know what they are doing, this video can be quite confusing and a person could really adjust their clutch out of wack. SO....the proper way to adjust is to just remove the clutch adjuster cap, should be a 19mm nut cap. There's no reason to remove the whole cover. Once the cap is removed, turn in the adjuster at the lever all the way in. Then hold the back nut while loosening the lock nut. Then...
can you please help meeeeeeeeee
my cluch is slipping its GSXR-600 2012 and iv been told it needs adjusting like what your doing now!
i that the reason why your doing this??
ok so where u are puttin philp is it suppose to spin when bike is running
Hi my gsxr clutch is really hard to pull. My left hand gets fatigued after 30 minutes or so. Will this procedure help me to make it lighter??
not really, your problem has to do with your springs. the harder the springs are the more they'll "grab" so you can put more power down but its also harder to pull in the clutch as the force is going straight to pushing against those springs
+Bajan01 You only need your clutch to get in and out of first gear, I hardly touch that lever while riding.
No sounds like your just being a b&*tch..lol kidding )
Hey Marine !!
How did the oil change go ? lol
hi, i got a problem when start moving first gear, when release the clutch with 3000rmps and higher i looks like the clutch slips, with a noise like zzzzz.... and bike jumps forward, can start moving slowly only, all other gear when riding faster works perfect (1 gear is working good aswell when you release the clutch is all good, no sliping. adjustment will help?
HEY BUDDY I HAVE THIS ISSUE AS WELL ON MY 600 K7. WERE YOU ALBE TO FIX THIS
my apologies for the all caps
Why would anyone post a video shot like this?!?
two words...tri pod...
Can you not move your hand !!!
do I need to drain the oil prior to pulling that cover off?
Yes