G'day mate. The screw should be 1/4 turn out from resistance. Then tighten the nut with the correct socket piece and with a screw driver going through it to hold the screw in place (at 1/4 turn out) whilst turning the nut down tight. From there, adjust the hand clutch lever, screwing the adjuster (in the direction towards the left side of the bike) so it's about 1/3 of the distance out (to give you 2/3 room for fine adjustment as the clutch wears). Then turn the cable adjuster bolt at the other end (you can see it in your video just above where you were fiddling) turning it anti-clockwise to tighten the cable slack or clockwise to loosen. You want to achieve about 5mm of cable slack (or 3mm - 13mm free play lever travel distance) at the hand clutch lever to ensure the friction plates of the clutch engage fully and not slip leading to excessive wear, overheating and eventually prematurely getting destroyed.
@@New_Wrench No worries. Among other things, I just replaced the clutch release mechanism (what you were fiddling with) and also the clutch cable on my 1998 SRAD model. Even following the Haynes manual (which is often not straight forward), it's tricky to work out. But once you do it right then you'll get it. Good luck!
G'day mate. The screw should be 1/4 turn out from resistance. Then tighten the nut with the correct socket piece and with a screw driver going through it to hold the screw in place (at 1/4 turn out) whilst turning the nut down tight. From there, adjust the hand clutch lever, screwing the adjuster (in the direction towards the left side of the bike) so it's about 1/3 of the distance out (to give you 2/3 room for fine adjustment as the clutch wears). Then turn the cable adjuster bolt at the other end (you can see it in your video just above where you were fiddling) turning it anti-clockwise to tighten the cable slack or clockwise to loosen. You want to achieve about 5mm of cable slack (or 3mm - 13mm free play lever travel distance) at the hand clutch lever to ensure the friction plates of the clutch engage fully and not slip leading to excessive wear, overheating and eventually prematurely getting destroyed.
@tcpiptv Thank you very much for the advice! I will try that in a new video upload.
@@New_Wrench No worries. Among other things, I just replaced the clutch release mechanism (what you were fiddling with) and also the clutch cable on my 1998 SRAD model. Even following the Haynes manual (which is often not straight forward), it's tricky to work out. But once you do it right then you'll get it. Good luck!
What did you do im having the same problem thanks