Fixing the Creality Sprite Extruder
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 มิ.ย. 2024
- Learn how to remove, disassemble, and fix the Creality Sprite Extruder!
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Still one of the best intros out there. same old creality QC.
Thanks! :D
Just cleared a fat blob that was jammed in there thanks to your video!! Back to printing 😩🙏
The thing about where to line up the tensioner nut was super helpful!!
I ordered the Ender 3 V3 SE and I feel much more confident about setting it up and getting started after watching your videos on the subject.
This is gold! I have the same printer since a few weeks and it is printing great! Now the clicking sound has started and the last two prints failed, it basically stopped extruding and I saw it making the printing motions in mid air without extruding filament. I gotta try your solution here! Thank you for showing this detailed explanation, your channel is a lifesaver!
Coming from an Ender 3 pro, went to the Ender 3 v3 SE. Please, keep this videos coming, I gain so much knowledge from your videos. Appreciate it.
My V3 SE comes in today and after watching this and a couple other of your videos I'm confident that I can set it up perfectly, thanks
I've had this same issue on my V3 SE. It started randomly clicking after about 40hrs of total prints time. I found this exact issue when I opened up my extruder. Thanks for posting this video of how to fix it! 👍
one of the best videos of sprite extruders it helped me to fix the problem i had for several months.
Always nice to see another helpful video with the newly recommended printers!
Thank you so much for all this info! I'm a newbie and jumped into this hobby with this printer, whoa boy what a mistake! And your have helped me fix all the issues I've been having.
This video was a good find. Purchased a new printer a day ago and right out of the box the sprite pro had inconsistent extrusion and was squeaking while printing. I was about to return the printer but after finding this video and dismantling the sprite I found that it had this problem right from the factory. It is working perfectly now and I have subscribed to your channel. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
You make very clear tutorials that are really useful. Thanks for sharing.
Additionally check your 2 hot end screws while your there....mine came loose after 5 days and gave me lots of problems....thanks for a great video. Very helpful
Exactly the step by step info I needed to get an errant piece of filament out of the extruder.
Thanks for the video Tom, the tension screw on my Ender 3 s1 was similarly off the rail and your video was exactly what I needed.
Excellent pace and level of explanation - thanks.
2 years with several Sprite extruders. There is no stop, so trying to tighten the gears can run the nut off the screw as yours was..I have found the unscrewing it to the stop then turn it in half a turn works perfectly on PLA, PETG and TPU.
Thank you for this video! The e3v3se is my first printer. While troubleshooting print quality I’ve adjusted or taken apart most of it. I noticed my tension screw turning freely, but haven’t been able to find a diagram or instructions for this particular extruder and had been too anxious to just open it up.
Gonna go crack that sucker open and fix having a screw loose 😄
I hope it helps :)
Great visuals, made the problem and solution very clear, thanks.
Thank you so much for this info! I have been trying to repair my Ender Pro and this definitely helped me! I didn’t want to have to take this whole thing apart again! Didn’t know about this simple fix! This screw was definitely loose! ❤
I just got my first 3d printer recently (Ender V3 SE) had an issue with filament feed and this video helped me take it apart clean it, and put it back together so thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the video. My issue was ABS in the feeder gears.
Man I had the same issue as shown in the video, thanks for guidance! Love your videos, i hope you make more content about this printer
The tension screws are kinda frequently badly assembled from the factory. On my Biqu H2 v2s extruder, the screw was in the spring BUT the entire top portion of It was outside the enclosure, meaning turning the screw just made it turn on itself, not compressing or decompressing the spring at all.
Excellent video. Love the attention to detail
My V3 SE also has the super annoying extruder clicking sound! BTW: Would LOVE to see a lot more videos about this extruder, the Ender 3 v3 SE, swapping nozzles, slicer settings, etc!
did you ever fix this?
@@Mr360alan nope, still can't figure it out
Ok yea my is only 2 months old and just started doing it . If I can finger out what is wrong I'll post a video on how to fix it.
Update of my issue I fix my problem but putting my spool back in the stock place and it stopped I belive it was putting stress on the extruder.
You are a legend. Thank you so very much for your tutorial. I spent 2 days trying to fix my ENDER 3V3 SE and I couldn’t regardless of how many tutorials I watched. Thanks to your short and effective video, I was able to get my machine running within 30 minutes and I’ve been smiling since ♥️ thank you so much
I'm glad it helped you :)
Yes thank you! You're one of the few that posted a detailed explanation. Or any explanation for that matter.
Clear and nice tutorial as always. Thanks!
Thanks!
had a blocked extruder on the KE and the internals are very similar just the gears are the other side hidden under the level and black gear but this helped alot thank you very much
I have a 20/20 eyesight and I plug the extruder in the wrong port. I don't have the BL-Touch and they are not one below the other, but still, stupid mistake. I was about to change some settings in marlin, glad I see your video first. Thank you so much!
Great video, will be attempting this tomorrow. As I was having issues and making some adjustments today. Also was trying to adjust the tension on the extruder and noticed that no matter which way I turned the screw, I didn't seem to get any resistance. So I'm totally expecting this print to fail about 8 hours in at around 1 or 2 in the morning... I might get lucky because I did make some other pretty drastic adjustments. But either way, I'll be taking apart the extruder tomorrow.
Thank you! I finally cleared that block
Thanks Tom. A helpful video.
This is such a good channel. Thanks!
Thank you :)
As always helpful videos. Thank you.
Thanks for this info. Definitely think this is linked to some of my problems 🤘🏼🍻
Thank you so very much for your tutorial.💯💯
Informative and helpful thank you!
Thanks for the video it Herpes a lot!
Thanks, I have this extruder on 2 of my 3d printers.
Tom's tips are always helpful.
This one is a big help for me and my CR-M4
Thanks! Are you a random Gene Cramer or my buddy Gene Cramer?
Not a random Gene. Your #1 fan Gene
I had same clicking noises with retraction. I opened my case up, but the screw and everything looked to be where it was supposed to be. I think it was my cura profile which I have since had no issues with.
Very helpful video.
Great video!
Thank you for the help
Hello there. I just wanted to thank you for making this video. It is well explained, and it has helped me sort out that exact same issue. Cheers. (By the way, I'd love to see more videos about what upgrades can be put on this printer... Filament runout detector, better hotend, what nozzles work best etc... things like that. thanks again)
I'm glad it helped you (and more vids are coming!) :)
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors What caught my attention is that this screw seems to be too short. For medium tension you have to screw that nut to almost the end of that screw. If the spring looses some tension, chances are high that when try to higher that tension the nut will come loose again. I think that's what happened in the factory. They tried to adjust tension from high to low, and in that process the nut came loose.
It's a shame this is a special screw with a collar, otherwise it was easy to replace for a longer one, that would have solved the problem completely. I have no idea where to search for a replacement that's longer than the original. Maybe someone here knows anything?
The timing of this video couldn't be better. I had a print fail today which snowballed into me no longer being able to feed filament into the extruder or insert the cleaning rod all the way. Now I know what to expect when I take it apart later!
Great video
Thanks for a useful video.
Thanks for the great info 👍
Thanks, I installed the E3D Revo upgrade to the Sprite extruder on my S1 Plus, after removing the heater block/hotend noticed some filament poking out and tried moving it up, but no, so absentmindedly pulled it down and out firmly then noticed a 1 inch PTFE tube on the filament. So wasn’t sure where it was from. I will check the heater block now and the upper part you show to whats what. Really looking forward to cold hand Revo nozzle changes! Laurie. NZ. 😊
Wow this vid promise to be awesome for my new printer!
Great tip!
Thank you!!
I searched for this video because I had a piece of filaments stuck and as I took off the extruder and as I was tightening the nut the spring bounced out and i was like where did that come from? So thanks for the video!
Very helpful.
Great info, thanks.
thanks
Hello,
Super job!!! - Thanks!!
Just did all the YT stuff for you.
Best Regards,
Jack
Thanks Jack! :)
Love this, thank you! Have you looked at any Hot End Upgrades for the V3 SE? I have been wanting to try and upgrade the Hot End but have been too afraid to mess with it since it's my first Direct Drive printer (I have an Ender 3 Pro that I've swapped HE's on but never a Direct Drive printer) and I didn't wanna mess it up lmao.
There's no need to upgrade the hotend for printing PLA.
Thank you!!!! What size nut is in that extruder? Mine dropped somewhere, could you measure it for me?
Just bought the current iteration of the Sprite and already having issues.
Differences in the build are quite apparent.
I was sold on the Sprite because they claim it is clog free. PTFE is not present in this version. I have sworn off the stuff.
I had to break it down have a good look at why numerous attempts to load filament failed miserably.
Really took the shine off the occasion.
I was aiming to have a look at the dual gear drive and tensioner to see if it was operable. Just before that,
the heater block and heat break were pulled and I observed a short length of PLA stuck in the passage. It had fractured during the infeed.
Cause was determined to be a blocked nozzle,... right out of the box. Factory issue PIA. Never expected that.
Swapped it for a steel alloy spare that they ship as a backup.
I'm now rebuilding and have lost track of the screw designation momentarily. Hope it works, or the hole lot of it is going in the bin after I take a 5lb mallet to put it out of it's misery. Gladly rid myself of the headache.
JUST THANK YOU!!!!
I followed all your steps and it all looked good but after reassembling I get a CR Touch error when trying to level the bed or do anything else. Do you have any tips on what I can do? Would be great! Thanks again for all the great work! Greetings Oliver
Hot melt glue can be released by swabbing some rubbing alcohol around the glob.
did doing this fix the clicking nosie that it was making my is about 2 mouths old and its been doing it prints are fine it runs good just the clicking is telling me something is wrong
Thanks
Do you like that build plate better than the stock one? I tried the glue thing but honestly a clean surface seemed to work better. Just got two V3 SE's.
I plan on doing some 2-3 day prints and need to make sure the bottom layer holds. So far the stock surface seems good enough but an upgraded build plate seems like a great idea too.
Yes, I really like the textured PEI spring-steel plates a lot. I was thinking of doing a video on them soon. :)
Thanks.
Can you do a video on bed leveling? I'm having issues with Z offset. Worked for a while but now I have to manually adjust Z offset to get the first layer down to the bed. Thanks - love your channel.
I have one that discusses Z offset on the Ender-3 V2 Neo that should help you :)
I had a 2nd shorter bowden tube in mine, the shorter of the two looked like it broke In two.. is there supposed to just be one ? I only saw you put one back in
Checking in with a heavily tinkered E3v2. And when I say "heavily tinkered", I mean "The Whole Magilla". If it was an AR-15, they'd likely call it a "Mall Ninja Tacticool Special". It's my "Just 'cause I like to fiddle with things" rig. I finally pulled the trigger on the Sprite kit for it today 'cause I've been thinking lately that the stock hot-end is in need of a full "All-the-way-including-a-brand-new-set-of-fans" level rebuild after 3 years of medium-heavy service. Then I thought "What the heck - I've been looking for an excuse to get a direct-drive extruder for a while", so now, I should have the "Sprite Pro Kit" in hand sometime Sunday. Before it gets here, I'm making the rounds of the assorted "Sprite upgrade"/Sprite Review"/"Sprite Installation"/"Sprite etc" vids, picking up what there is to be picked up. Thanks for the tips!
I just opened up the extruder but the nut was on the screw. It was almost topped out. I adjusted the nut to where you show, it clicks equally loud. I noticed that the gear teeth are quite large, compared to other geared extruders. I am left assuming that the tolerance is too great and the clicking is due to the teeth slamming the opposed tooth during retraction and against, feeding.
It is not stepper skipping. I can find no other possible cause.
@Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors yould you please make a Video about how to change the Fan on the Extruder and wich one to buy!?
I already have a video on how to replace fans: th-cam.com/video/myK2B6NC-OQ/w-d-xo.html
my kit came with a bearing also, but I can't see where it goes, any idea?
Gran vídeo, acabo de arreglar mi ender 3 s1 :))
Ender 3 v3 SE guide sprite extruder retraction clicking noise I wonder if this helps this video show up when searching for this stuff in google
Thanks for the breakdown.
Do you find this Ender3v3 Sprite is performing better than the Sprite on the S1?
If so, why would that be?
Yes, I do, and not sure why. The sprite extruder still doesn't quite match the surface quality of bowden feed when using smaller nozzles (.3 and .2) but for .4 it is extremely good on the V3 SE.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
From what I understand, dual gear extruders can introduce their own set of inconsistencies that a simple single gear/idler doesn’t worry about. And the Bowden tube can , oddly enough, act as a buffer for unwanted patterns.
Thank you for the information 🙏 great videos. What are the good 3d printers
My favorite two are the Ender-3 V3 SE, and the Ender-2 Pro if you are wanting to print minis.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors
I want to print alot of things but I'm starting off small...like minis and slide swords, etc but I would like to print helmets and things like that and my kid's have fish tanks and lizard 🦎
@@peterstoltz3296 I can't reply advise on that, this channel is about printing tabletop game terrain and minis. Sorry.
Okay sorry for asking so many questions about 3d printing but I have a question about the SD card on the side of my ender3 v3 se, is that USB-c port can I use a USB -c cable that is connected to my laptop to the printer???
@@peterstoltz3296 no, print via the SD
Mine was exactly the same when I opened it
Ugh....the glue ripped apart the plug attaching to the extruder. What size are the ends?
was thinking about opening to check if i could use shorter nozzles... now i dont have to do that ...
Is there a schematic available for the Sprite Extruder? I had a slight clog this morning and a short piece of PTFE tube (compared to the one up top) came out from the hot end. Wondering if there are two separate pieces of tube or if mine snapped. I can only push each piece so far up/down instead of them going all the way through. Wondering if the tube narrows or if filament leaked out where the tube cracked.
There should only be one piece of tube.
@@Tombof3DPrintedHorrors Turns out there actually are two. The longer one in the top and a shorter one in the hot end above the nozzle. Took me hours to find the info but there were several people with the same question on Reddit. Some days OCD pays off.
@@wprjr.3D good to know, thanks!
hello, i have question: do i need to calibrate steps per mm for extruder after doing that? i just did everything like in tutorial and im just wondering if i need to recalibrate it, i'm using Ender 3 V3 SE.
You only need to do that if you change extruders. :)
I have a brand new Sprite on an Ender 3 and it will not feed any filament. It just clicks. I had just replaced my other one because it was doing the same thing. I was printing like a champ and all of a sudden it stopped feeding the filament. Any ideas?
Did you check it to see if the internal screw/nut came loose like I show in this video?
Yes, on the old one and the new one out of the box. Any chance my lcd screen acting up would affect that?
@@lisathompson6527 I don't see how.
Are you sure the hot end is heating properly? If it isn't hot enough to melt the filament it will cause the extruder to click. Try heating it to 205, the depress the load arm on the extruder so you can manually push filament through the system and make sure it is melting properly and coming out the nozzle.
It comes out fine when I push it through manually. The only thing that was different from the last time it printed was I had changed the stock plate with a magnetic one. I printed an ornament on it and when I went to put it back on it got stuck to the lcd screen and it had all these pixels on it. I turned the printer off and back on and that's when the problem started.
I have changed nozzles, tubing, e steps...I am going crazy
I see this plastic becoming a problem much like the V2 extruder.
💕👍
Alguém do Brasil ? 🇧🇷
Why do Tom's warnings always sound ominous? "Don't pull on the wires, they can come out of the plug." Sounds like personal experience. :)
Thanks for the videos.
Because one time Tom pulled two of those wires out of the connector LOL. Feeding them back in is a real bit@h to do correctly!
Maybe you should look at mirroring your content on alternate sites besides TH-cam.
Such as?
boost