Got him!!! Yes! I know that feeling when something you have just been putting up with for a long time finally gets resolved. In my case it was my dash lights. I checked all fuses (so I thought) and was sure it was simply a huge auto electrical job... Well.. turns out it WAS the fuse all along.. I put up with it and got used to it for over a year... I felt so silly and yet so relieved when It was sorted. Anyway, as always lads.. thanks for the vid, always enjoyable.
trial & error - experience can only come with practice. No such thing as time waisted when you learning from your mistakes. 👍 great video, waiting for the next one
Hello, here is a link to where I purchased my sensor. Hope this helps. www.mitzybitz.com/mitsubishi-pajero-shogun-mk2-91-99-l200-sport-96-07-front-diff-lock-switch
something similar happened to me. I have a 2001 Pinin and the vacuum tank connection to the vacuum line broke off. That connection is so small, you can not see any hole in the vacuum tank. I thought that tank was the fuel filter. I only had the car for 2 days and trying to figure out the way these vehicles are built. I only noticed that these solenoids are good after testing the resistance of them. Too late since i bought and replaced the solenoids. I ordered a vacuum tank and i am still waiting for it. For the meantime I blocked the vacuum line with stud and it works perfectly. I am now stuck on replacing the EGR. I got a used one and wanted to replace mine with it so I can clean mine knowing that I have enough time and no rush. Yeah... That EGR valve is mounted in the most in-accesable place in the whole engine bay. I was only able to get one bolt off and had all kinds of cramps and bruising fighting that second bolt in the tightest place ever. After 1 hour i gave up. I love my Pinin but damn it is a hard car to work on. My right turn signal burnt off and I had to replace it. For some reason, some engineer thought it is an absolutely brilliant idea to place the access to the turn signal in the wheel well. That wheel well is covered with plastic so in order to get that plastic cover off, you need to unbolt it. All screws are rusted and broke off instantly. So instead of having that thing dangling I spared the last bolts and cut a line in that damn cover to get to the light bulb. I have been watching Clarkson's farm recently and the only way to explain it is that it felt like giving a birth to a lamb. I stuck my hand into nothingness and had all kind of mud and shit covering my hand and was finally able to get that damn bulb out.
🤣 Love Clarkson's farm, know the bit you mean 🤢 we luckily get away with rust (some not much) as in sunny Portugal - but they are oddly built things - our newer one needed the whole front off to change the headlight, drives us nuts. Keep letting us know how you get on, brilliantly written comment - we like you !
Oooh a split rubber, I remember those day's back in the 80's. Mind you it's my own fault for buying my dobbers from the pub toilets, 50p for a pack of three back in the day. As far as I'm aware I got away with said splitages.
Never too old to learn, never heard the term dobber for a jonny - at a wedding not too long ago nephew blew one up so he could put his whole head in - Nath has never forgotten it
Okay u changed the actuator, the solenoids & the sensor & it turns to be a bloody vacuum leak?! even though u said u changed the vacuum lines?!😅😅😅 , I mean it's a 2003 for crying out loud 😂 , so now it's stops flashing?
No experts thats for sure🤣 - solid is what it should be when engaged - what I can find is ... In a 2017 Mitsubishi Triton 4x4, if the green 4x4 indicator light stays solid, it typically indicates that the 4WD system is engaged and functioning. However, depending on the specific system and the conditions, a solid green light can sometimes suggest an issue that requires attention. Here are a few possible explanations: Normal Operation (4WD engaged): The solid green light is often a normal indication that the vehicle is in 4WD mode, especially if you have manually shifted into 4WD (High or Low). This means the 4x4 system is actively engaged, and it may stay on while driving in conditions that require it (like off-road or slippery surfaces). Automatic 4WD (Engaged by the system): Some versions of the Triton have an automatic 4WD mode where the system engages 4WD when needed (e.g., when the rear wheels slip). In this case, the light can stay on as long as the system senses that 4WD is active. Fault in the 4WD system: If the green light stays on even after the vehicle is supposed to be in 2WD, it may indicate a fault in the system, such as an issue with the transfer case or a sensor problem. In this case, the vehicle might not be able to switch between 2WD and 4WD correctly. Sensor or Switch Malfunction: Sometimes, a faulty switch or sensor can cause the light to remain on when it shouldn't. If the transfer case or differential isn't actually engaged in 4WD, but the light stays on
Got him!!! Yes! I know that feeling when something you have just been putting up with for a long time finally gets resolved. In my case it was my dash lights. I checked all fuses (so I thought) and was sure it was simply a huge auto electrical job... Well.. turns out it WAS the fuse all along.. I put up with it and got used to it for over a year... I felt so silly and yet so relieved when It was sorted. Anyway, as always lads.. thanks for the vid, always enjoyable.
Happy days !! glad its sorted
trial & error - experience can only come with practice. No such thing as time waisted when you learning from your mistakes. 👍 great video, waiting for the next one
You are spot on - thank you
I've been on the same journey in Australia with my 2005 MK, I'll be checking that vacuum line, cheers and love the show.
Get that one at the back - wish we have found it 200 $$ ago 🤣
I just covered the light with electrical tape! Works a treat😁😁
Pukka - get some self amalgamating tape as well, brilliant stuff
Para retirar o carro do 4H basta imobilizar o carro, colocar primeira e arrancar. Funciona 100%
👍🏼
Can you share the part number you changed?
Thanks!
Hello, here is a link to where I purchased my sensor. Hope this helps.
www.mitzybitz.com/mitsubishi-pajero-shogun-mk2-91-99-l200-sport-96-07-front-diff-lock-switch
something similar happened to me. I have a 2001 Pinin and the vacuum tank connection to the vacuum line broke off. That connection is so small, you can not see any hole in the vacuum tank. I thought that tank was the fuel filter. I only had the car for 2 days and trying to figure out the way these vehicles are built. I only noticed that these solenoids are good after testing the resistance of them. Too late since i bought and replaced the solenoids. I ordered a vacuum tank and i am still waiting for it. For the meantime I blocked the vacuum line with stud and it works perfectly.
I am now stuck on replacing the EGR. I got a used one and wanted to replace mine with it so I can clean mine knowing that I have enough time and no rush. Yeah... That EGR valve is mounted in the most in-accesable place in the whole engine bay. I was only able to get one bolt off and had all kinds of cramps and bruising fighting that second bolt in the tightest place ever. After 1 hour i gave up.
I love my Pinin but damn it is a hard car to work on. My right turn signal burnt off and I had to replace it. For some reason, some engineer thought it is an absolutely brilliant idea to place the access to the turn signal in the wheel well. That wheel well is covered with plastic so in order to get that plastic cover off, you need to unbolt it. All screws are rusted and broke off instantly. So instead of having that thing dangling I spared the last bolts and cut a line in that damn cover to get to the light bulb. I have been watching Clarkson's farm recently and the only way to explain it is that it felt like giving a birth to a lamb. I stuck my hand into nothingness and had all kind of mud and shit covering my hand and was finally able to get that damn bulb out.
🤣 Love Clarkson's farm, know the bit you mean 🤢 we luckily get away with rust (some not much) as in sunny Portugal - but they are oddly built things - our newer one needed the whole front off to change the headlight, drives us nuts.
Keep letting us know how you get on, brilliantly written comment - we like you !
This light doesn't work at all for me and the drives work 🤷♂ What size tires do you have?
265 75 16 ... love them :)
Oooh a split rubber, I remember those day's back in the 80's. Mind you it's my own fault for buying my dobbers from the pub toilets, 50p for a pack of three back in the day. As far as I'm aware I got away with said splitages.
Never too old to learn, never heard the term dobber for a jonny - at a wedding not too long ago nephew blew one up so he could put his whole head in - Nath has never forgotten it
Okay u changed the actuator, the solenoids & the sensor & it turns to be a bloody vacuum leak?! even though u said u changed the vacuum lines?!😅😅😅 , I mean it's a 2003 for crying out loud 😂 , so now it's stops flashing?
Never said we are smart - thick as shite us ! watch us fuck up, so you don't have too ...
@@DrivenMadShow did the flash light stopped?
Good explanation 👏 my customer's mitsubishi triton 2017 4x4 green light stay solid ?? Give me any idea?
No experts thats for sure🤣 - solid is what it should be when engaged - what I can find is ...
In a 2017 Mitsubishi Triton 4x4, if the green 4x4 indicator light stays solid, it typically indicates that the 4WD system is engaged and functioning. However, depending on the specific system and the conditions, a solid green light can sometimes suggest an issue that requires attention. Here are a few possible explanations:
Normal Operation (4WD engaged):
The solid green light is often a normal indication that the vehicle is in 4WD mode, especially if you have manually shifted into 4WD (High or Low). This means the 4x4 system is actively engaged, and it may stay on while driving in conditions that require it (like off-road or slippery surfaces).
Automatic 4WD (Engaged by the system):
Some versions of the Triton have an automatic 4WD mode where the system engages 4WD when needed (e.g., when the rear wheels slip). In this case, the light can stay on as long as the system senses that 4WD is active.
Fault in the 4WD system:
If the green light stays on even after the vehicle is supposed to be in 2WD, it may indicate a fault in the system, such as an issue with the transfer case or a sensor problem. In this case, the vehicle might not be able to switch between 2WD and 4WD correctly.
Sensor or Switch Malfunction:
Sometimes, a faulty switch or sensor can cause the light to remain on when it shouldn't. If the transfer case or differential isn't actually engaged in 4WD, but the light stays on