If you remove the subframe it gives you a chance to check both it and the chassis points for rust damage and do a repair. It's only held in by four bolts and locates by two tapered pins adjacent to the two front bolt holes into matching holes in the chassis, and comes out with the diff in place on it's three mounts after removal of the trailing arm bolts x2, the transverse arm bolts x4 and the propshaft to pinion bolts x4. Just did this job last week after noticing the subframe flexing at the left rear mount, it had almost completely rotted through but there was still about an inch of original steel holding the locating hole in place so it was an easy enough fix welding plates on whilst maintaining the pitch between the rearmost locating holes. My F1 is 20 years old and to be fair, at 21 years old your rear subframe looks in pretty good shape. Thanks for making the video and for taking the time to upload.
@comeinhandynow I attempted to do the same to mine last week using the Waxoyl spray kit with a mix of Dinitrol, Waxoyl and some white spirits and even though I had the tin in a bucket of hot water, by the time it reached the nozzle it just came out as a thick rope of fast setting wax as it was far too cold. Ended up brushing it on to cover up the surface rust and it turned out ok. I'll give it another go next summer when it should be much warmer.
@@goober650NX Yes this time of year you have to get the waxoyl really quite hot. A hot hot gun against the tin is the best way I find, takes about 20 minutes to get it liquid, depending how full it is, then pour it into your sprayer container, also play the hot air gun over the spray nozzle. There is a short video here: th-cam.com/video/94duWkqHMyQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sYtEUbpbgrenbfzQ
My recollection of this job is it's a real pig so well done for sorting it. I didn't hear you mention the VCU in this as over stiffening of the VCU is a common cause of Rear diff and/or IRD failure. Have you checked it recently?
Not quite rear diff related - but IRD related - from memory, sometime along the line, LR revised the gearing ratio of the IRD front:rear on the FL1 - because they found they were winding up with VCU and getting premature failures of the VCU. Do you have more details of when this change happened and the details of the gearing change?
Comeinhandy, the saint of freelanders, i need help! Could it be possible, if you know how to, and maybe post a video about how to change the slave cylinder in the clutch? And maybe the clutch disk? Im in a real pickle. im not going to lie. the garage wants 2k to do it! I did the master cylinder myself, hoping it was the issue, but there's clutch fluid leaking out of the cluch housing, so it's definitely the slave. From what i understand, it's one of the worst jobs to change it on the landy. I went through a rageing flooded 5 foot river, and the currents just killed the clutch, had just enough welly to get out and back home, and then it packed up. I have a snorkel fitted and checked for any water in the cylinders, but there wasn't any, so im confident that's the only issue. No worries if you can't, i want to do the work myself, but I've never done it.
Greetings. It’s not a job I’ve done and it’s one of several reasons I prefer the 1.8 and v6 over the TD4 diesel, but of course you don’t have that choice now. I read that you have to remove the gearbox to get to the slave cylinder, so check out the LR manuals for that job. Probably DIYable but a biggish job. Good luck!
Gearbox needs to come out for this job. Check out Kevin Albert Williams here on TH-cam. He operates a mobile clutch replacement service and posts videos of his work. There's a video of a 2005 F1 clutch replacement from about 5 years ago and it's quite a big job for a diyer but definitely doable. Buy yourself a good heavy duty impact gun like the dewalt one in this video and an impact rated universal joint with suitable extension bars and sockets. You'll need them. Also, remember to bleed the slave cylinder once all is reassembled. Good luck.
Hi, and thank you for the video. I have a few questions. If the propshaft is no longer required and has been removed from the vehicle, will the diff and drive shafts be any longer needed? And what will the impact be on the wheel bearings? I was thinking about cutting off the drive shafts to as far as where the rubber boots are in order to prevent the bearing grease escaping. I am not a mechanic. My wife and I bought a freelander 1.8 to the Caribbean island of Saint Kitts and Nevis from the uk, and it's a 2002 Serengheti.
I think you should keep the drive shafts and differential personally. Someone might want to restore 4WD in the future, so it would be a shame to ruin it.
If you remove the subframe it gives you a chance to check both it and the chassis points for rust damage and do a repair. It's only held in by four bolts and locates by two tapered pins adjacent to the two front bolt holes into matching holes in the chassis, and comes out with the diff in place on it's three mounts after removal of the trailing arm bolts x2, the transverse arm bolts x4 and the propshaft to pinion bolts x4. Just did this job last week after noticing the subframe flexing at the left rear mount, it had almost completely rotted through but there was still about an inch of original steel holding the locating hole in place so it was an easy enough fix welding plates on whilst maintaining the pitch between the rearmost locating holes.
My F1 is 20 years old and to be fair, at 21 years old your rear subframe looks in pretty good shape.
Thanks for making the video and for taking the time to upload.
Thanks for your useful info. I sprayed mine in waxoyl (with a bit of extra oil) when I got it a year ago. Always worth doing on old cars.
@comeinhandynow I attempted to do the same to mine last week using the Waxoyl spray kit with a mix of Dinitrol, Waxoyl and some white spirits and even though I had the tin in a bucket of hot water, by the time it reached the nozzle it just came out as a thick rope of fast setting wax as it was far too cold. Ended up brushing it on to cover up the surface rust and it turned out ok. I'll give it another go next summer when it should be much warmer.
@@goober650NX Yes this time of year you have to get the waxoyl really quite hot. A hot hot gun against the tin is the best way I find, takes about 20 minutes to get it liquid, depending how full it is, then pour it into your sprayer container, also play the hot air gun over the spray nozzle. There is a short video here: th-cam.com/video/94duWkqHMyQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sYtEUbpbgrenbfzQ
My recollection of this job is it's a real pig so well done for sorting it.
I didn't hear you mention the VCU in this as over stiffening of the VCU is a common cause of Rear diff and/or IRD failure. Have you checked it recently?
I mentioned it in the video comments section. And yes you are correct, worth checking out and I did.
Not quite rear diff related - but IRD related - from memory, sometime along the line, LR revised the gearing ratio of the IRD front:rear on the FL1 - because they found they were winding up with VCU and getting premature failures of the VCU. Do you have more details of when this change happened and the details of the gearing change?
I also heard that, I guess it was on the facelift models. The details must be out there on a forum somewhere on the internet….
Comeinhandy, the saint of freelanders, i need help! Could it be possible, if you know how to, and maybe post a video about how to change the slave cylinder in the clutch? And maybe the clutch disk? Im in a real pickle. im not going to lie. the garage wants 2k to do it! I did the master cylinder myself, hoping it was the issue, but there's clutch fluid leaking out of the cluch housing, so it's definitely the slave. From what i understand, it's one of the worst jobs to change it on the landy. I went through a rageing flooded 5 foot river, and the currents just killed the clutch, had just enough welly to get out and back home, and then it packed up. I have a snorkel fitted and checked for any water in the cylinders, but there wasn't any, so im confident that's the only issue. No worries if you can't, i want to do the work myself, but I've never done it.
Greetings. It’s not a job I’ve done and it’s one of several reasons I prefer the 1.8 and v6 over the TD4 diesel, but of course you don’t have that choice now. I read that you have to remove the gearbox to get to the slave cylinder, so check out the LR manuals for that job. Probably DIYable but a biggish job. Good luck!
Gearbox needs to come out for this job.
Check out Kevin Albert Williams here on TH-cam. He operates a mobile clutch replacement service and posts videos of his work. There's a video of a 2005 F1 clutch replacement from about 5 years ago and it's quite a big job for a diyer but definitely doable. Buy yourself a good heavy duty impact gun like the dewalt one in this video and an impact rated universal joint with suitable extension bars and sockets. You'll need them.
Also, remember to bleed the slave cylinder once all is reassembled. Good luck.
Recommend Kevin he done my L series Freelander 1 and the video is on TH-cam 👍🏼
@Bigbadbaza He's no longer trading unfortunately :(
If TD4, the gearbox has to come out as the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing.
Hi, and thank you for the video. I have a few questions.
If the propshaft is no longer required and has been removed from the vehicle, will the diff and drive shafts be any longer needed?
And what will the impact be on the wheel bearings?
I was thinking about cutting off the drive shafts to as far as where the rubber boots are in order to prevent the bearing grease escaping.
I am not a mechanic. My wife and I bought a freelander 1.8 to the Caribbean island of Saint Kitts and Nevis from the uk, and it's a 2002 Serengheti.
I think you should keep the drive shafts and differential personally. Someone might want to restore 4WD in the future, so it would be a shame to ruin it.
@comeinhandynow Advice taken, thank you very much.
The issue is the tripod bearing on the propshaft, and we removed it just to keep the vehicle going.
Thanks again
Simba.
@@S1mTechS Just removing the prop shaft is fine.