A variation on this theme - I make a lot of wine stoppers. The traditional approach is to drill a hole in the end of the blank, use a 3/8x16 tap to thread the hole, and then use that hole to mount the blank the threaded stud on the end of a stopper mandrel. The problem is that those threads are in end-grain, and as you point out, ordinary woods don't take threads well, and especially end-grain threads. As a result, its not unusual to strip those threads when turning the blank. You can buy steel or brass threaded inserts at the hardware store, but I've found that a simpler (and less expensive) approach is to make a threaded insert using face-grain timer that then glue into a hole in the stopper blank. Drill a hole in a scrap of face-grain ash, use a machinists' tap to thread the hole, then screw it onto the stud on my stopper mandrel and turn it down to a cylinder, typically 5/8" diameter. I can batch out a bunch of these that I keep on hand, and when I want to make a stopper, I just drill a 5/8" hole in the end of the blank, glue in the insert, and proceed.
Your idea is to use threaded inserts rather than threading the the actual work piece. As I understand it, you are saying to use inserts that will reliably take threads rather than a work piece that doesn't thread well. That certainly makes sense. This is a great idea. 👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks Glen I have used both methods over the years. And as you say, some woods will not take a thread, so inserts is the way to go. I will do a follow up video showing how you can buy threaded connections and make your own if you’re not a thread chaser Thanks, Sam.
Thanks for another great video Sam. I've been doing this for my Urns for a while and is very well liked. BTW, I received the Acks package and a big "Thank You" to Tom and Annette and of course, you too! Take care, Dave
I really enjoyed that video, Sam. I love learning new things to use in my turnings. I just finished a Buckeye Burl bowl this afternoon and it is gorgeous!
Interesting concept Sam. I've got a ton of off-cuts to learn chasing on. Without having to scour through all your videos, what is make and TPI of the chaser tool you're using here? Many thanks for another great lesson. 👍
Thanks for the thoughts on inserts. I have had very good success chasing threads in face grain pieces of softer woods such as cherry or walnut. The challenge is how to hold a piece that is 10" by 8".
A useful, informative video. I messed about with thread chasing a couple of years back using scrap wood. It worked in terms of an operational screw thread. Trouble is a lot of timber is not suited to threading, making these inserts is a good way of making close grained wood go further whilst giving more open grained wood a 'cousin' to work with.
Informative video as always, Sam. I was surprised when you did not turn that small tenon on the male size to fit the female thread like you typicaly do. Since I would expect you to use the male threads to fit over a tenon ultimately on your finial, I would have thought that you would go ahead and add a hole for that and eliminate the need to glue a temporary handle.
I used hot melt glue to glue on the temp handle when I first made the inserts. I really didn't like using this insert. I usually don't do it that way-or never do it that way. Yes, there were a few really messed up things I did in this video.....Live and learn. Sam
Thanks Sam, great video, have to do some thread projects....did you make that holding tool? I need one of those to pull the thread so it can cut properly
No I did not make that tool. However, you can certainly make one yourself it's not hard to do. I got this one from craft supply for about $40. Thanks, Sam.
Paul, finally someone with good taste..... I collect watches, much to the chagrin of my wife. This is a Citizen, Skyhawk ecodrive. On the back side it has a Blue Angels' logo on it-NO I was not a jet pilot. The price of this watch is about at my limit. Another one of my favorites is a G Shock (Casio) Mudmaster. It is almost too big to wear. haha. But I can tell the Altitude and barometric pressure, if I need it. (I usually don't) Sam
Great video Sam, good alternative. What about trying to harden wood by stabilizing or super glue saturation and threading? Maybe at least good practice? Cheers from Clancy.
That’s a good question. I don’t really use the Janka scale, although I understand it. For steel and metal, I like the Rockwell hardness scale. The Janka scale started with flooring, and was designed to measure the toughness of wood when something was dropped on it. Like Flooring. For thread chasing the better measurement is specific gravity. This sounds like a good topic for my notes from the Turning Shop video out later this month. Thanks for the idea.
I am going to talk about this in my next notes from the Turning Shop video. I think it's a good question that needs more exploration. I have a website, wyomingwoodturner.com that has a lot more on thread chasing. Thanks, Sam.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks Sam , It looks like you having fun .
A variation on this theme - I make a lot of wine stoppers. The traditional approach is to drill a hole in the end of the blank, use a 3/8x16 tap to thread the hole, and then use that hole to mount the blank the threaded stud on the end of a stopper mandrel. The problem is that those threads are in end-grain, and as you point out, ordinary woods don't take threads well, and especially end-grain threads. As a result, its not unusual to strip those threads when turning the blank. You can buy steel or brass threaded inserts at the hardware store, but I've found that a simpler (and less expensive) approach is to make a threaded insert using face-grain timer that then glue into a hole in the stopper blank. Drill a hole in a scrap of face-grain ash, use a machinists' tap to thread the hole, then screw it onto the stud on my stopper mandrel and turn it down to a cylinder, typically 5/8" diameter. I can batch out a bunch of these that I keep on hand, and when I want to make a stopper, I just drill a 5/8" hole in the end of the blank, glue in the insert, and proceed.
Yet another very interesting & instructional video. Thanks Sam.
Thank you Sam for another excellent video.
Your idea is to use threaded inserts rather than threading the the actual work piece. As I understand it, you are saying to use inserts that will reliably take threads rather than a work piece that doesn't thread well. That certainly makes sense. This is a great idea. 👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2023 and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks Glen
I have used both methods over the years. And as you say, some woods will not take a thread, so inserts is the way to go. I will do a follow up video showing how you can buy threaded connections and make your own if you’re not a thread chaser Thanks, Sam.
Thanks that is a great way to get started with my new tool that I finally got. I watched your demo in KC so this was a good refresher.
Beautiful threaded inserts Sam. Thanks for the teaching moment.
Thanks for another great video Sam. I've been doing this for my Urns for a while and is very well liked.
BTW, I received the Acks package and a big "Thank You" to Tom and Annette and of course, you too!
Take care, Dave
As always
Another great video
I really enjoyed that video, Sam. I love learning new things to use in my turnings. I just finished a Buckeye Burl bowl this afternoon and it is gorgeous!
Interesting concept Sam. I've got a ton of off-cuts to learn chasing on. Without having to scour through all your videos, what is make and TPI of the chaser tool you're using here? Many thanks for another great lesson. 👍
Great idea and encouraging as one can make another if the first attempt doesn't at first work out well.
Very nice skill.
Thanks for the thoughts on inserts. I have had very good success chasing threads in face grain pieces of softer woods such as cherry or walnut. The challenge is how to hold a piece that is 10" by 8".
A useful, informative video. I messed about with thread chasing a couple of years back using scrap wood. It worked in terms of an operational screw thread. Trouble is a lot of timber is not suited to threading, making these inserts is a good way of making close grained wood go further whilst giving more open grained wood a 'cousin' to work with.
Informative video as always, Sam. I was surprised when you did not turn that small tenon on the male size to fit the female thread like you typicaly do. Since I would expect you to use the male threads to fit over a tenon ultimately on your finial, I would have thought that you would go ahead and add a hole for that and eliminate the need to glue a temporary handle.
I used hot melt glue to glue on the temp handle when I first made the inserts. I really didn't like using this insert. I usually don't do it that way-or never do it that way. Yes, there were a few really messed up things I did in this video.....Live and learn. Sam
Plus I thought I was responding to another thread chasing video....OMG getting old.
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER I resemble that remark!
Thanks Sam, great video, have to do some thread projects....did you make that holding tool? I need one of those to pull the thread so it can cut properly
No I did not make that tool. However, you can certainly make one yourself it's not hard to do. I got this one from craft supply for about $40. Thanks, Sam.
Thanks another great video. What kind of watch is on your wrist. Its very nice.
Paul, finally someone with good taste..... I collect watches, much to the chagrin of my wife. This is a Citizen, Skyhawk ecodrive. On the back side it has a Blue Angels' logo on it-NO I was not a jet pilot. The price of this watch is about at my limit. Another one of my favorites is a G Shock (Casio) Mudmaster. It is almost too big to wear. haha. But I can tell the Altitude and barometric pressure, if I need it. (I usually don't) Sam
@@WYOMINGWOODTURNER great watches
Great video Sam, good alternative. What about trying to harden wood by stabilizing or super glue saturation and threading? Maybe at least good practice? Cheers from Clancy.
Sam is there a janka number you suggest staying above for turning threads.
That’s a good question. I don’t really use the Janka scale, although I understand it. For steel and metal, I like the Rockwell hardness scale. The Janka scale started with flooring, and was designed to measure the toughness of wood when something was dropped on it. Like Flooring. For thread chasing the better measurement is specific gravity. This sounds like a good topic for my notes from the Turning Shop video out later this month. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks
What woods tread best
I am going to talk about this in my next notes from the Turning Shop video. I think it's a good question that needs more exploration. I have a website, wyomingwoodturner.com that has a lot more on thread chasing. Thanks, Sam.