Liked and subscribed from the USA. I am a beginning woodturner with a 1947 ShopSmith which I saved and rebuilt from the scrap heap. I have turned dozens of pens. I am now getting into bowl turning and needing all kinds of parts to do just that. It is pretty much ready to go. Just need some more cash to get the converter parts to make it really sing. Thanks for sharing.
Another revelation! Heard of a 'glue chuck' before but never considered a 'threaded glue chuck' partly, no doubt, cos I've never heard of a 'Beall tap'! And now all become clear! Thank you for educating me, Mike
I have soaked the threads with CA after I cut them but never thought of doing it first so i'll do that from now on. Last week I did a demo and told the audience to check out your 'no chuck' series because it was the basis for part of my demo where I showed the people how to make the same glue block/chuck as you made in this video. I have loads of these, 'soft touches', custom jam chucks etc. The Beall tap has more than paid for itself because it's only the price of one faceplate. When I bought my mates Jet with an M33 x 3.5 spindle the very first accessory I bought for it was the equivalent Beall tap. Best Wishes, Brendan.
Hi Brendan, and thank you for mentioning my video at your demo, which I trust went well. like you I am always making something using the Beall tap, it is a brilliant piece of kit. Cheers Mike
Great video Mike. These blocks work really well. I find it easier to push the whole tailstock forward with manual pressure whilst tapping the thread, rather than trying to feed the quill in at the same. Cheers, Jim
Thanks for the shout out. Just one more feature I like to add. I cut another tenon to fit a chuck (on the spindle side) and mark where the jaws bite and jaw order. - Just in case. Just make sure there is enough wood between the tenon and the threads - your chuck jaws looked smaller than mine. Great job. Again thank you. Alan
My lathe has a 1 X16 spindle and I got a 1 X16 X 4" bolt and using an angle cutter cut groves in the bolt and use it to thread my glue blocks. It works very well. Enjoy you series on turning without a chuck. Have a great day. Bill
Thanks for that video Mike. I have this tap for my lathe but I'm a fairly new at woodturning and I wasn't quite sure how to go about using it. Now I know. I've learned so much from your videos and I hope you keep them coming. Thanks again.
Great video, Mike. I really liked the idea of the recess to allow the glue block to rest on the larger shoulder. Hadn't thought of that but I will definitely use the idea next time I make one of these. Thanks for the tip!! Also, thanks for mentioning me; always nice to be recognized by the experts!! Take care, my friend, .....Gord
Nice job. I have never used the CA glue trick. I shall try it the next time I cut threads. I actually never thought of it. Thanks for the tip, Mike, and thanks for the video.
Good description of the threading! 👍🏻 l've been using this method for a few years and it works great. A real time saver. Especially when combining it with Lyle Jamieson's face plate turning of bowls without having to reverse them. That is, matching up concave surfaces along with CA glue. Many other other items can use this tapped block. Thanks again for the clear and descriptive video.
Many thanks for a very timely video. I’ve got an idea for a new project that involves thin sycamore platters, pyrography and colouring. Been puzzling over how to ensure securing the work on the lathe. You’ve solved the problem for me! Cheers, Mate.
Great work. I made several "chucks" of these, but slightly different: 1) I used metal nuts, welded to large washers, and these bolted to the block of wood; 2) the contact surface with the piece to be turned is not flat but in the form of a cup, in order to facilitate cutting after the work is finished. When the cup is worn, I simply add another layer of wood and I again empty the center.
So many cool ideas to use in turning. I enjoyed your videos ( turn without a chuck) as well as the others you do. Always a pleasure to watch your videos....
Hi Mike !! Great no chuck series , it took me quite long time in wood turning before I invested in a chuck so I know ho useful these videos are. I have 2 chucks now but I will definitely be making one of these. Only criticism is you used your chuck to make the block, it would have been nice to see you make it on a faceplate.All the best !! Andy.
Hi Andy, and thank you. never thought about using the chuck for the block, your point is very valid, it would have been better to use a face plate, given the theme of the video. Thanks for the input mate, as always :) Cheers Mike
Excellent video. Maintaining the habit of making threaded glue blocks helps me consider how I can make the tools that I need rather than buy them - not only is that less costly, it's also a lot more fun to know that you have made your own tools. You didn't specify the threading on your lathe in the video itself. That's actually important because it determines which tap you must purchase, and also the size of the initial hole. My lathe has a 1"x8tpi spindle, and I was able to buy a suitable tap at an ordinary hardware store. Standard off-the-shelf taps are less expensive than specialist Beale taps made specifically for wood turners. Two suggestions. First, after cutting and reinforcing the threads with CA, add a little paste wax to the threads to help the glue block go onto the spindle. That will help increase the life of the glue block. Also, it helps to have a small hole bored into the side of the glue block to receive a tommy bar. Usually, a waxed glue block can easily be removed, but sometimes, it helps to be able to encourage the process using a tommy bar. DAMHIKT
Mike, I have used the Beall 3/4" tap for some years on end grain sycamore. I only finally apply 3 coats of "Extra Hold" hairspray, which harden the threads as well as making a tighter fit. No failures so far. Bernard
Love your videos and I learn a lot from you. Was funny using a chuck to build something that allows you not to buy a chuck :) But this is a lathe show, I understand! If you do not have a chuck, you could do the drilling with a drill and the tapping manually on the bench, then screw it to the spindle and rounding it and facing it.
Mike, Thanks for this, I have never made one from softwood thinking that it would not be much good at holding a thread, never thought of using CA have done so now and have made a couple from celery top pine. Thanks again fr a very helpful video Regards Stephen
Hello Mike, I was going to start with 7' lengths of 4 by 4, so now I will be able to practise the skills of rounding, facing, tenons, boring and threading. I feel however that mine will receive embellishment, with shaping, beading, colouring and finish, before being consigned to their final purpose. Out of 7' , I should get quite a few. Regards, Glenn :-)
Hi Glenn, always good to use "not so good" wood to practice on in my view. Unlike you though, if it works it's fine, no extra embellishments. I have many "prototypes" that are still in use, and not been replaced by "proper" versions ;) Take care, and thanks for watching Cheers Mike
Hi Mike, great vid on doing a glue block ...been watching a lot of your videos, appreciate your time and efforts. I have the Beall tap, its awesome and works well.... used it for a long time since I didn't have the cash for a chuck. Your tip on using CA glue before and after cutting the threads is awesome..... worth a subscribe :) Thanks Scott
Great video Mike. I think I'd rather use a spanner than a mole grip. My way of thinking is that a spanner may be kinder to the end of the threading tool. I'm happy to be proved wrong though.
just an obvious tip: go to a metal working shop, and buy a "tap-handle" they make the job of rotating the tap a lot easier, and they even have a centre hole in them ( the ones that look like a small drill with a Tommy bar through them, NOT the ones like a flat piece of metal with a set of jaws in the centre of them); and these collet type are strong too, just have to size the "wrench" based on the BIGGEST size of tap ( or Forstner bit) you intend on using so it's strong enough for the job. this is the exact same way you tap a job on a metal lathe too, so look at how they do it too.
hello mike excellent video again mike i notice you simon hope hollowing chisels on the wall behind you i have the same system but it only comes with one handle i noticed you have a handle for each chisel straight and curved which handle do i get so i can have 2 instead of swapping over all the time lol
Most any hardwood will do but avoid softwoods is what I have been told. I also soak the threads after the threads are cut instead of before and then rerun the Beall tap through to clean up the threads after the CA glue has cured. Seems to work well for me.
Most excellent video Mike. Thank you. May I ask, are the threaded spindle sizes universal or does each lathe maker differ in thread size? The reason I ask is that I have an old Clarke’s lathe and no chuck and would like to know how to measure the thread. Kind regards Yosser
Hi Yosser and thank you. There a few different spindle sizes and you'd have to check the manual, or online for your particular lathe ... the most popular are generally M33 x 3.5 and 1" x 8tpi. hope this helps a bit. Cheers Mike
Loved the Video and the idea of "Making Tools" for your work. I would add: Use WAX on the thread to help with ease of use and write on the tools the Date made and number of uses.
Hello Mike, just been watching your great video, just one question please, where do I find a M33 x 3.5 mm tap from for a reasonable price ? Many thanks lutz
Toolpost have transferred things over to Beaufort Ink these days - www.beaufortink.co.uk/spindle-thread-taps-spindle-thread-adaptors/spindle-thread-taps
Mac Billing If you're in the states, they are available from hartvilletool.com. No affiliation, just a customer. BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 1" X 8 TPI. Item #: 29297 BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 1-1/4" X 8 TPI. Item #: 29299 BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 33MM. Item #: 29301
If you have a lathe with a 3/4" or 1" spindle, you may be able to find a suitable generic tap at a hardware store. My local store didn't have one in stock, but could order it from their warehouse. If your lathe spindle is larger than 1", you will probably have to get the Beale tap that is specifically made for this purpose. They are more expensive, and are typically available from wood turning specialty stores. If you have an older lathe with a non-standard spindle threading (at least by today's standards), you may be able to get by using a bolt with a couple of grooves cut in the side with an angle grinder.
I can't remember where I found this tip. Buy 3/4 UNF NYLOC NYLON INSERT NUTS and dig out the nylocn inserts and you can chisel out half a hexagon on two pieces of wood. Join together gripping the nut. use epoxy around the nut. Screw it onto your spindle and round it off. This can now be glued to a sacrificial piece or rounded MDF for sharpening or to make a disc sander. I bought 5 for £3.50. that's about 5 dollars.
You are right Mike... I guess a few guys could get together and split the cost of that tool, making it less expensive, or better yet, borrow it from someone that already has it! LOL Aloha from Maui
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Liked and subscribed from the USA. I am a beginning woodturner with a 1947 ShopSmith which I saved and rebuilt from the scrap heap. I have turned dozens of pens. I am now getting into bowl turning and needing all kinds of parts to do just that. It is pretty much ready to go. Just need some more cash to get the converter parts to make it really sing. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Mr. MacLaren, very much appreciated.
The re vamped lathe sounds great too ... enjoy :)
Another revelation! Heard of a 'glue chuck' before but never considered a 'threaded glue chuck' partly, no doubt, cos I've never heard of a 'Beall tap'! And now all become clear! Thank you for educating me, Mike
Lol ... my pleasure Ray. Glad you found some use in the video, and thanks for watching.
Take care
Mike
I have soaked the threads with CA after I cut them but never thought of doing it first so i'll do that from now on. Last week I did a demo and told the audience to check out your 'no chuck' series because it was the basis for part of my demo where I showed the people how to make the same glue block/chuck as you made in this video. I have loads of these, 'soft touches', custom jam chucks etc. The Beall tap has more than paid for itself because it's only the price of one faceplate. When I bought my mates Jet with an M33 x 3.5 spindle the very first accessory I bought for it was the equivalent Beall tap.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
Hi Brendan, and thank you for mentioning my video at your demo, which I trust went well. like you I am always making something using the Beall tap, it is a brilliant piece of kit.
Cheers
Mike
Excellent video Mike! Thanks for sharing. Have a wonderful day!
Thank you Heath
Cheers
Mike
Great video Mike. These blocks work really well. I find it easier to push the whole tailstock forward with manual pressure whilst tapping the thread, rather than trying to feed the quill in at the same. Cheers, Jim
Thank you Jim, and thank you for the tip as well mate.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks so much, Mike. Received a tap for Christmas last, no idea how best to employ it. Glue blocks, here I come!!
+Bob B
Glad it was of some use Bob
Cheers
Mike
Thanks for the shout out. Just one more feature I like to add. I cut another tenon to fit a chuck (on the spindle side) and mark where the jaws bite and jaw order. - Just in case. Just make sure there is enough wood between the tenon and the threads - your chuck jaws looked smaller than mine.
Great job. Again thank you.
Alan
Credit where credits due Alan, and thanks for the tip regarding the extra tenon too.
Cheers
Mike
My lathe has a 1 X16 spindle and I got a 1 X16 X 4" bolt and using an angle cutter cut groves in the bolt and use it to thread my glue blocks. It works very well. Enjoy you series on turning without a chuck. Have a great day. Bill
That sounds like a great method too Bill, thanks for the input.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks for the great information you provide to us new turners. You give explanations that are easy to understand and follow.
Thanks for that video Mike. I have this tap for my lathe but I'm a fairly new at woodturning and I wasn't quite sure how to go about using it. Now I know. I've learned so much from your videos and I hope you keep them coming. Thanks again.
Glad you liked the video Ken, and thanks for your kind words and support.
Cheers
Mike
Great video, Mike. I really liked the idea of the recess to allow the glue block to rest on the larger shoulder. Hadn't thought of that but I will definitely use the idea next time I make one of these. Thanks for the tip!! Also, thanks for mentioning me; always nice to be recognized by the experts!!
Take care, my friend,
.....Gord
Thank you Gord, glad you enjoyed the video. Always good to hear from you mate.
Take care
Mike
Thanks for taking your time to produce this.
My pleasure, and thanks for watching.
Cheers
Mike
Another great tutorial. Never seen this done before and I suspect you already have several people searching for taps. Well done!
Thanks Paul, its is a very versatile method mate.
Cheers
Mike
Good job, Mike. Good to see you, again!!
Thank you Sir!
Cheers
Mike
Nice job. I have never used the CA glue trick. I shall try it the next time I cut threads. I actually never thought of it. Thanks for the tip, Mike, and thanks for the video.
Thanks Alan, glad you found the video useful.
Cheers
Mike
Is there a specific thin CA that is best to use?
Good description of the threading! 👍🏻 l've been using this method for a few years and it works great. A real time saver. Especially when combining it with Lyle Jamieson's face plate turning of bowls without having to reverse them. That is, matching up concave surfaces along with CA glue. Many other other items can use this tapped block. Thanks again for the clear and descriptive video.
Thank you James, glad to hear that you concur with my views.
Cheers
Mike
Many thanks for a very timely video. I’ve got an idea for a new project that involves thin sycamore platters, pyrography and colouring. Been puzzling over how to ensure securing the work on the lathe. You’ve solved the problem for me! Cheers, Mate.
Glad to be of service Graham, hope it works out for you mate.
Cheers
Mike
Great work. I made several "chucks" of these, but slightly different: 1) I used metal nuts, welded to large washers, and these bolted to the block of wood; 2) the contact surface with the piece to be turned is not flat but in the form of a cup, in order to facilitate cutting after the work is finished. When the cup is worn, I simply add another layer of wood and I again empty the center.
Thank you, and thanks also for the great tip regarding the metal nuts.
Take care
Mike
wow !!!! new thinks on the list !!! thanks for sharing !!! i need to get one of them !!! great deatailed video as always !!!!
lol, thanks for watching Kostas
Take care
Mike
Thanks Mike, good review and I'd run out of the ones I made a couple years back. Best of the Season to you! Cheers from BC.
Thank you Gord, and the same to you and yours my friend.
Cheers
Mike
So many cool ideas to use in turning. I enjoyed your videos ( turn without a chuck) as well as the others you do. Always a pleasure to watch your videos....
Thanks for your kind words Robert, much appreciated.
Take care
Mike
Hi Mike !! Great no chuck series , it took me quite long time in wood turning before I invested in a chuck so I know ho useful these videos are. I have 2 chucks now but I will definitely be making one of these. Only criticism is you used your chuck to make the block, it would have been nice to see you make it on a faceplate.All the best !! Andy.
Hi Andy, and thank you. never thought about using the chuck for the block, your point is very valid, it would have been better to use a face plate, given the theme of the video. Thanks for the input mate, as always :)
Cheers
Mike
Nice tips Mike I should try this one day. Thanks to show us
Thanks Simon
Cheers
Mike
Very helpful for a beginner like me. Thanks a lot.
Glad you found it useful Billy
Cheers
Mike
Fascinating!! Thanks so much. Your channel is so very useful in so many ways. Wish you were coming to Portland next June for the AAW to demonstrate.
Hi Mike, and thank you. I wish I could make it over the pond, but I fear it's not possible mate.
Take care
Mike
great video as always Mike. take care and see you soon Sir.
Thank you Nick....looking forward to it mate :)
Cheers
Mike
I received my tap today and have three, hard maple blocks awaiting threading. These are really strong and true running.
Always learning from you my friend, thanks mate 👍🏼😊
Thanks for your support Marc.
Cheers
Mike
Excellent video. Maintaining the habit of making threaded glue blocks helps me consider how I can make the tools that I need rather than buy them - not only is that less costly, it's also a lot more fun to know that you have made your own tools.
You didn't specify the threading on your lathe in the video itself. That's actually important because it determines which tap you must purchase, and also the size of the initial hole. My lathe has a 1"x8tpi spindle, and I was able to buy a suitable tap at an ordinary hardware store. Standard off-the-shelf taps are less expensive than specialist Beale taps made specifically for wood turners.
Two suggestions. First, after cutting and reinforcing the threads with CA, add a little paste wax to the threads to help the glue block go onto the spindle. That will help increase the life of the glue block.
Also, it helps to have a small hole bored into the side of the glue block to receive a tommy bar. Usually, a waxed glue block can easily be removed, but sometimes, it helps to be able to encourage the process using a tommy bar. DAMHIKT
Thanks Louie, and thanks also for the very helpful tips and suggestions.
Take care
Mike
I learned something from Mike Waldt once again! Thank you my Friend!
Lol....pleased to be of service Paxton ;)
Take care my friend
Mike
Very helpful video Mike so many thanks.
Thank you Alan
Take care
Mike
That's a cool trick! I'll have to remember that one. Thank you so much for the information Mike!
Glad you found it useful Tracy.
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike! Interesting method gave me an idea! I'll try.
Thank you Aleksey
Cheers
Mike
As ever, brilliant. Thanks Mike.
Thank you kind Sir!
Cheers
Mike
Great demo Mike ! going have to get me a tap now lol
Cheers mate, Bram.
Thanks Bram, you won't regret it.....honest! ;)
Cheers
Mike
Mike, I have used the Beall 3/4" tap for some years on end grain sycamore. I only finally apply 3 coats of "Extra Hold" hairspray, which harden the threads as well as making a tighter fit. No failures so far. Bernard
Hi Bernard, and thanks for the tip, and watching.
Take care
Mike
Love your videos and I learn a lot from you. Was funny using a chuck to build something that allows you not to buy a chuck :) But this is a lathe show, I understand! If you do not have a chuck, you could do the drilling with a drill and the tapping manually on the bench, then screw it to the spindle and rounding it and facing it.
Lol ... thank you Jose.
Mike, Thanks for this, I have never made one from softwood thinking that it would not be much good at holding a thread, never thought of using CA have done so now and have made a couple from celery top pine.
Thanks again fr a very helpful video
Regards
Stephen
Glad you found it of use Stephen.
Cheers
Mike
Best Wishes, Иван.
Thank you
Cheers
Mike
Great project. It's now on my list of things i must try. 😃👍🏻
Thanks Raymond
Cheers
Mike
Hello Mike, I was going to start with 7' lengths of 4 by 4, so now I will be able to practise the skills of rounding, facing, tenons, boring and threading. I feel however that mine will receive embellishment, with shaping, beading, colouring and finish, before being consigned to their final purpose. Out of 7' , I should get quite a few. Regards, Glenn :-)
Hi Glenn, always good to use "not so good" wood to practice on in my view. Unlike you though, if it works it's fine, no extra embellishments. I have many "prototypes" that are still in use, and not been replaced by "proper" versions ;)
Take care, and thanks for watching
Cheers
Mike
Excellent! Very interesting. Thanks!
+Something Wonderful
Thank you Sir!
Cheers
Mike
Very interesting Mike.
Cheers. Andrew
Thank you Andrew
Cheers
Mike
Great Video, Mike
Thank you Neural.
Great info Mike . Cheers , take care .
Thanks Glen
Cheers
Mike
Hi Mike, great vid on doing a glue block ...been watching a lot of your videos, appreciate your time and efforts.
I have the Beall tap, its awesome and works well.... used it for a long time since I didn't have the cash for a chuck.
Your tip on using CA glue before and after cutting the threads is awesome..... worth a subscribe :)
Thanks
Scott
Thank you Scott, much appreciated my friend.
Take care
Mike
Great video Mike! Thank you!
Thank YOU :)
Cheers
Mike
Great video Mike. I think I'd rather use a spanner than a mole grip. My way of thinking is that a spanner may be kinder to the end of the threading tool. I'm happy to be proved wrong though.
Thanks Bob, and I think you may well be right mate, I do intend to make a handle for it, but when is another matter :)
Take care
Mike
just an obvious tip: go to a metal working shop, and buy a "tap-handle" they make the job of rotating the tap a lot easier, and they even have a centre hole in them ( the ones that look like a small drill with a Tommy bar through them, NOT the ones like a flat piece of metal with a set of jaws in the centre of them); and these collet type are strong too, just have to size the "wrench" based on the BIGGEST size of tap ( or Forstner bit) you intend on using so it's strong enough for the job. this is the exact same way you tap a job on a metal lathe too, so look at how they do it too.
Hi Andy and thanks for the advice, much appreciated, as is your watching.
Take care
Mike
enjoyed that Mike
That's good to hear Gerry, and thanks for watching mate.
Cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike, great tip, cheers
My pleasure, and thank you Val
Cheers
Mike
Thank you for sharing the information 👍🏼
A pleasure, and thank you for watching Tomas.
Cheers
Mike
hello mike excellent video again mike i notice you simon hope hollowing chisels on the wall behind you i have the same system but it only comes with one handle i noticed you have a handle for each chisel straight and curved which handle do i get so i can have 2 instead of swapping over all the time lol
Thanks Phill, I got the medium grub screw handle with the 16.5mm hole.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Mike
Very interesting, Nice video Mike, Can you use any wood? Thank you
Most any hardwood will do but avoid softwoods is what I have been told. I also soak the threads after the threads are cut instead of before and then rerun the Beall tap through to clean up the threads after the CA glue has cured. Seems to work well for me.
I usually make my glue blocks from ash, but I think a softer wood (even pine) will work if you saturate the wood with CA to stiffen the fibers.
As the lads below said Mart, hard wood is best, but if you saturate with CA glue, then softwoods can be used too.
Cheers
Mike
Most excellent video Mike. Thank you. May I ask, are the threaded spindle sizes universal or does each lathe maker differ in thread size? The reason I ask is that I have an old Clarke’s lathe and no chuck and would like to know how to measure the thread. Kind regards Yosser
Hi Yosser and thank you.
There a few different spindle sizes and you'd have to check the manual, or online for your particular lathe ... the most popular are generally M33 x 3.5 and 1" x 8tpi.
hope this helps a bit.
Cheers
Mike
Great idea! What kind of wood did you use?
Think it was Bewch Frank.
Loved the Video and the idea of "Making Tools" for your work. I would add: Use WAX on the thread to help with ease of use and write on the tools the Date made and number of uses.
Hello Mike, just been watching your great video, just one question please, where do I find a M33 x 3.5 mm tap from for a reasonable price ?
Many thanks lutz
Hi Lutz, I answered your query in another video, where you asked the question :)
Cheers
Mike
Excellent Mike. Yet another good tip. PS Where did you get your tap???? 73 de Mike the Grinder>>
Thanks Mike, I got it from The Tool Post here in the UK.
Cheers
Mike
Hi have you got a video on making drink coasters?
No I'm afraid I haven't, but I'm sure there must one or two on the Tube, hope you find one.
let me know if you do.
Take care
Mike
Where did you get the tap from mike
Hi Roy I got it from The Tool Post .... sadly they are no longer in business.
Toolpost have transferred things over to Beaufort Ink these days - www.beaufortink.co.uk/spindle-thread-taps-spindle-thread-adaptors/spindle-thread-taps
Hi Mike, Where did you get your tap from? I can't find one any where.
Mac Billing Google Bealle Tools
Mac Billing If you're in the states, they are available from hartvilletool.com. No affiliation, just a customer.
BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 1" X 8 TPI. Item #: 29297
BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 1-1/4" X 8 TPI. Item #: 29299
BEALL LATHE SPINDLE TAP - 33MM. Item #: 29301
In the UK Toolpost have one.thats where I got mine.
If you have a lathe with a 3/4" or 1" spindle, you may be able to find a suitable generic tap at a hardware store. My local store didn't have one in stock, but could order it from their warehouse.
If your lathe spindle is larger than 1", you will probably have to get the Beale tap that is specifically made for this purpose. They are more expensive, and are typically available from wood turning specialty stores.
If you have an older lathe with a non-standard spindle threading (at least by today's standards), you may be able to get by using a bolt with a couple of grooves cut in the side with an angle grinder.
All answered below Mac, and thank you all for your input
Cheers
Mike
What is the best thin CA glue people use?
I get mine off Ebay Martin ... works fine for me.
Cheers
Mike
Great thanks, I'm new to all this. Your reply is much appreciated and your videos are a great source to learn from
Reply to
Roy's the boy
I got mine from Beaufort ink here in England
Just recently September 2022
M33x3,5 price £35
Hope this helps
John s
Manchester
Great video Mike, will have to go and buy a glue gun now👍
Thanks Mark, you won't regret it mate.
Cheers
Mike
I see you forgot about those of us who don’t have a chuck who were just watching your miniseries about having “No chuck, No problem”
Never forgotten Joe :)
I can't remember where I found this tip. Buy 3/4 UNF NYLOC NYLON INSERT NUTS and dig out the nylocn inserts and you can chisel out half a hexagon on two pieces of wood. Join together gripping the nut. use epoxy around the nut. Screw it onto your spindle and round it off.
This can now be glued to a sacrificial piece or rounded MDF for sharpening or to make a disc sander.
I bought 5 for £3.50. that's about 5 dollars.
Great idea Sir, and thank you.
Cheers
Mike
I prefer to do mine with thread chasing tools. You can buy one for just a few $ as opposed to that expensive one you are using...
While I totally agree with you, most of us don't have the skills,or the tools, to achieve that.
Thanks for watching, and commenting.
Cheers
Mike
You are right Mike... I guess a few guys could get together and split the cost of that tool, making it less expensive, or better yet, borrow it from someone that already has it! LOL Aloha from Maui
+KEA Woodturning Studio Hawaii
LOL ;)