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Audi B6: 1.8T Crank Sensor / Engine Speed Sensor replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2024
- Thomas
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Burnaby, BC
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7 years on and this is still a very very very helpful video. You took 8.5 minutes so I figured set aside 3 hours and told the wife to go back to bed and put some earplugs in because there’s gonna be a lot of swear. 2.5 hours later the job is done, thanks Thomas, merry Christmas.
Thank you for watching!
Merry Christmas and happy new year!
Thanks for the help! I followed your steps and was able to do this myself. Getting the bolt back in was the hardest part for me. Everyone...a small mirror like he is using is a MUST. Also, looks like it may help to access the sensor easier if you remove the oil filter. I was stranded so I didn't have this luxury. = ) Thanks again!
Thank you for your DIY insight. Glad to hear that you managed!
Thank you for watching!
Only detailed vid i have found on TH-cam. Great job!
Thank you and thank you for watching!
Sometimes it's all about feel. Getting a bolt to start can be hard to explain but once you do a few it makes sense. Signing your work is a true sign a quality! I got some stickers coming (finally) In about three weeks you should have one. I did a search in my area (Nashville) for a VW TDI Passat wagon. The closest one was in California!
Compare that to the UK where you would struggle to find a petrol one amongst the sea of diesels. Would be a good road trip to pick one up :)
Great video. My sensor was stuck fast in the engine so I used some adjustable pliers to grip it and wiggle it free. Popped out in seconds. An adjustable mirror with built in LED lights is a must and very cheap.
Thanks for sharing tips!
Same here, Mole Grips and easy peasy!
The best video in the web about this problem. Today i change this sensor by myself in 2003 1.8T A4 B6. Not that easy but i made it with advices form Video. Many thanks from Poland. Cheers!
Kind of you to say, thank you and thank you for watching!
Thanks a lot for this. Getting the bolt back in was the hardest part for me as well. Removing the oil filter made it way easier
Thank you for watching!
I wish more guys made videos like these. I think it's awesome.
reweydewy My thoughts exactly... I think it's the best way to gauge a job. Those who can't follow along are missing that "Mechanically Inclined" instinct. =)
nice job Thomas. what a PITA to get to. And if subframe is in the way from underneath guess you just pick the lesser of 2 evils,
The Disgruntled Mechanic I think your ATF dipstick tube video has got this one beat!
This is what I did about a year ago :)
Thanks for great video Thomas.
Still working ok?
Yes, it is alright.
Thanks Thomas. Take care.
Pretty tight quarters, but as always you'll find a way down there to get at that sensor :)
Tha ks for the vid just changed my crank sensor first time ever worked mint !!!
Thank you for watching! Thank you for sharing your DIY success.
Im currently getting P0321 and P0322 with the epc light and bought a crankshaft sensor so needed this thanks hopefully it sorts it
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS no thank you, it was the crankshaft sensor I replaced it and all seems fine
Thank you for the update!
After a couple maybe I could do it in under 4 hours. Good to mark it, ever have to use the marking ?
Not for blame... but it helped identify a faulty new part (a few month later). Rather than tell him (my boss) "we need a crank sensor"... I was able to tell him "warranty repair... we need a crank sensor" before he had a chance to go through the repair history and find out himself. =)
Hello. Great vid! You dont possible have any vid for an Audi A3 1,8T -99 that shows the change for this?
Should be similar... we didn't get the A3 until 2003. I can look for information if you need it, but it should be in a similar location.
tight spot good job buddy
Glad this can be done from above! I've got literally no boost then EPC and limp mode. P1171 is the code. I'm going to replace this and give the throttle a good clean. Hopefully it's nothing more serious. Got a load of rattle when the engine shakes but putting that down to the turbo bracket not being bolted on. Tips?
Don't think that the crank sensor will help, if P1171 is the only fault code.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17579/P1171/004465
Crank sensor usually causes stalling & no starts and should flag a G28 crank sensor code.
Compare throttle body angle readings with throttle pedal angle readings via a scan tool... if yours will let you. Voltage / power & ground checks and wire integrity checks would also be good, before replacing the throttle body module.
Quite a few forum searches I did lead to this, being that its on its way out rather than dead. Jury is out.
Just finished doing this. It sure took some wiggling about to get out! 90% of the job is getting things out with this car!
I let the throttle body do its beeping thing and gave it a drive around the block, it seems more stable but no boost yet and lights are still on, I'm going to clear the codes and give it another drive in an hour.
If its not gone I'll take off the throttle body and clean the contacts with contact spray stuff.
After that its $$$$ for a new throttle body as you say :( :(
The wire was wrapped in a plastic casing which made it a bit tricky to get into the right spot, also getting the bolt into the hole was pure luck!
I left it until knowing for sure its the right part before ripping out the old one :)
This video helped so much, thanks!!
Thank you for the update!
My 02 a4 Quattro isn't turning over. It turns but it doesn't start. It did this once before but after s few tries it started. My EPC light is on, my second spark plug from the back doesn't look like the other 3. You have an idea on what could be the issue? I assumed it was a spark issue but I'm not sure. Thanks
Could be spark, fuel or compression (cam/crank timing).
Spark - crankshaft position sensor, fuse for the ignition system, problem with the ECM, wiring
Fuel - fuel pump relay, fuel pump, pressure regulator, out of fuel, wiring
Compression - timing belt has jumped / is broken.
One spark plug / cylinder should not cause an engine to not start.
Check some of those items and get back to me. I'm about to start work, so I can't write more / tell you how to check each right now.
Hey man, great video. Just pulled and replaced the crank position sensor. I still have same problems (engine turning over and not starting, randomly turning off while driving) and same codes (p0321 and p0322). Any thoughts?
I'm considering throwing another sensor in or actually taking it to the shop.
Thanks!
Year? Make? Model? What scan tool are you using? Not all scan tools will show all codes that are stored. How often does it not start? Mainly when cold or warm? When it does start, how long before it stalls? How long does it take before it starts again? When it does not start, are you getting spark?
Thomas EXOVCDS
Thanks for the quick reply.
2001 A4 Quattro 1.8
I'm using a OBDII reader that can read stored codes.
It doesn't start 5 times out of 10 when cold and 10/10 when warm.
It can run roughly 5 minutes before stalling and then it takes about 20 minutes before it will start again.
It is getting a spark.
Those are typical symptoms of a bad crank sensor... however, a bad fuel pump or restricted fuel filter will also cause similar symptoms. It's possible that your new crank sensor is bad or that a different brand might work better. If your scan tool can read live engine data... check if the ECM is able to produce an RPM signal while you are cranking the engine. Should see 260 to 280 rpm or more when cranking. If yes, look for a fuel issue (stuck fuel pump, plugged fuel filter). If no rpm signal is generated, try another crank sensor. The crank sensor produces an AC voltage... you can disconnect the sensor and attach a voltmeter to the 2 signal wires and then check the voltage while the engine is being cranked... should be about 2.6Vac or 1.3Vdc when measured on the dc scale. No voltage or less than those figures will cause a no start. Make sure that the sensor is sitting flush against the engine block... a rusty mounting surface can result in too big of an air gap between the sensor and the tone-wheel.
Just wanted to follow up. I replaced the sensor with an OEM Bosch and cleaned up the area around the sensor very slightly. Currently its been 1,000 miles with no problems at all. The aftermarket sensor make was Intermotor for anyone wondering.
Thanks for the help, subbed!
How difficult is it to install a block heater on a 98 Jetta MK3 2.0L Gas? Do you have a recommendation on what one would work best?
There are several options, depending on which way you want to go. Heating the block / coolant is the best for getting heat inside the car as soon as you start the engine. Heating the oil / pan can aid in getting oil to places quickly on a cold start. I don't have any brands or specific kits that I can recommend (I'm on the pacific west coast and we don't have a need for block heaters)... but a simple google search for universal engine block / coolant heaters, should result in something that you can splice into the cooling system (as simple as cutting a radiator hose and installing the heater between the two halves). If you'd rather want one that bolts to the block, the heat from the heating coil will travel through the mounting bolt to the block, where the heat is transferred to the coolant.
You can't see much but at least you can get your hand down there. Nice job
Yeah... could be worse.
I checked all the fuses and all the fuses was good when I first checked it only the bank 2 camshaft sensor was on Nana camshaft sensor number 1 Bank 1 is on
I'm not sure what you mean... fault code for bank 1 camshaft position sensor?
Is the timing belt OK? Is Camshaft / crankshaft timing correct?
I have a 2003 Audi a6 Quattro 3.0 motor I put all my car on my spark plugs and a crankshaft sensor and a throttle body on it and it still won't crank up do I need to put on the bank one crankshaft sensor to make a startup
Key ON, is the check engine light ON (should be on, this is a bulb check, if NOT on... then the ECM is not powered up)? Have you scanned the ECM for any fault codes? Does each ignition coil have power on the red/green wire? If no, check fuse #29.
Hello I just bought a 04 Audi A4 1.8l b6 and I’m getting 3 codes a P0501, P0302, P0507. I have replaced the spark plugs, check valves, did an oil change, put in a drivers wheel speed sensor, checked the coil packs by unplugging each individually while running and they are good, also did the same thing with the injectors and they are also all at the same ohm reading. Unfortunately it’s getting harder and harder to start the car warm or cold. Could this be my crank sensor or something else? I’ve ordered an idle air control valve as well but wouldn’t think that would cause my misfire and hard start
You need to check "fuel trim" values to determine if there are any "air leaks" into the
engine that could affect engine idle. There is no idle air control valve... the engine uses the throttle body to adjust idle. If it's only one cylinder that is "intermittently" misfiring (not a constant / hard misfire), then focus on that cylinder for issues. Try to recreate the misfire to where it is happening often enough. Swap the coil with another one and check if the misfire moves. You need an oscilloscope to see the "Ignition Firing Line" of the spark plug... that can help determine what the problem might be.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16885/P0501/001281
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16891/P0507/001287
look at her do I need both of my crankshaft sensors for my car to start
Thomas My Audi a4 2001 1.8t Shows the Epc Lights.? nd when it Heats up to temperature it shuts off. Nd Dont know what it is.?
Scan for fault codes. Something in the EPC (Electronic Power Control) system could be causing an issue. Throttle body, crank sensor etc. Once you have a fault code, you can do some digging / checking.
What lube did you use for the sensor? So I can buy at autozone please
Engine oil.
I have an Audi A4 2005 1.8 L my engine is miss firing I have replaced the ignition coil‘s and the spark plugs and wires . My crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced could that fix my miss firing issues?
No, I don't think so. Have you checked the compression? The injectors? Fuel quality? Fuel Pressure?
Do you know offhand what size of bolt holds the sensor? I dropped mine on the reinstall and it's been claimed by the void 🙄. Love the video.
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/allen-hex-bolt-priced-each/n90945002/
#19 should be the one.
audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a4+avant/a4/2004-249/9/906-906010/
You're the man! I appreciate the lightning fast replies! I ended up running to the junk yard for a donor.
For the 03 A4 (b6) the speed / crankshaft sensor is
OEM: 078906433A
MPN: 0261210177
The bolt that holds it is MPN: N 90945002
It is roughly M7 x 21.5 with a flange head - if you are trying to hit the hardware store.
Liked and subscribed :)
my 2004 2.7t is starting to very intermittently not start. it cranks and turns over VERY VERY healthy, but just wont CATCH! doesnt happen all the time though. i also notice little itty bitty stutters and slight power loss at times. like ...something..isnt right. could it be the crank sensor? i have a feeling it is.
Could be... being the main input to the ECM, it should set a fault code. A "pending" fault code may not turn the check engine light on... check for fault codes if you haven't already.
Quick question, I have a 2004 audi a4 1.8t. I have a P0322 code. My car struggles to turn on, I drive for about 10 minutes and the EPC light turns on and so does the check engine light. It sometimes stalls when I'm at a red light. Car sometimes loses power while driving. Do you think I need to replace the crank position sensor?
Possibly. You need to check fuel pressure before condemning the sensor... a faulty fuel pump can set p0322 codes as well.
@@EXOVCDS thank you for responding! I will check the fuel pump
Hey buddy I have a question regarding a 2008 1.8t a4, p0261 p0264 p0267 p0270 these codes and a couple others for sensors have all popped up at once, do you think it's the crankshaft position sensor?
If the engine runs, then there's no power supply issue to the injectors & other sensors. So I don't know why those codes are being flagged. A fuel pump relay that intermittently doesn't supply power to those components or doesn't supply power as quickly as the ECM expects, could cause those codes to be set.
Good evening, sorry for the late reply i couldn't find the original video we was commenting on so I will update you here, i replaced the crankshaft position sensor and a new fuel pump relay and the car has been working great ever since with no problem. Thankyou for your help and insight its very much appreciated, keep up the good work and videos you are a life saver 🙌
Thank you for the update!
My wrist always feels like a dead Slinky toy after doing this replacement...which is frequently on mine. (And everyone else)
Hey man got a 2005 b6 and having a hard time with a flat headed what is the tool you used 3/10/21 thanks man it’s the only thing that my check engine light is on for 😭
I don't understand your question... and what does today's date have to do with it?
@@EXOVCDS he on that cranky banky dawg
Do you disconnect battery before removing sensor. Audi's can throw a tonne of problems once disconnected. Not sure whether to replace sensor with battery connected
As long as the engine is off, no problem disconnecting the sensor with the battery connected.
Thomas EXOVCDS appreciate the quick response. Many Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching!
Hi Thomas, great video! I had a strange situation happen with my B6 A4 1.8T.. Was driving down a hill just coasting around 35mph when the car began to rough idle, wouldn't accelerate when given slight throttle or it would accelerate very little. As I reached the bottom of the hill, I pulled over and the car just shut off on it's own and wouldn't start back up. I checked timing belt was still on hadn't snapped, had good tension. I doubt it skipped a tooth and fell off timing.. I couldn't hear the fuel pump noise as it hums for 2 seconds when the key is in the on position (priming the fuel rail). When I got it home, did a fuel pressure test, pressure went up to 60psi and held at 55psi once the car was off. Left it like that for an hour or more, it was down to about 45psi.. It is getting fuel at the rail, might pull the injectors to see if they are properly spaying or leaking flooding the valve ports.. I also checked all the relays and fuses except the ones in the ecu box in the engine compartment. All relays and fuses I checked worked, including the fuel pump fuse and relay. Pulled all spark plugs they were extremely dirty with heavy black carbon on them and smelled like gasoline, one of the plugs seemed to have warped at a slight angle, with a small ceramic part under tip chipped.. The electrode maintaining the gap with the plugs sharp tip didn't seem to be bent, or it had made any contact with anything (not sure why it was at slight angle and chipped, this was the plug from Cylinder #1) rest also looked extremely black covered kn carbon. Hoping I don't have blown head gasket, I will run a compression test next before trying to replace the plugs and checking to see if they give spark. I purchased a fuel pump, thinking the pump was dead, that I coasted down that hill on residual fuel pressure, and fumes.. But old pump seems to work okay, might also change the crank sensor, not sure if this is a possible issue to rough idle, and suddenly shutting itself off when parked. Car cranks, but not start, as though there is no spark, fuel or air.. I scanned for possible codes, the only code that came up is a really old one I had for a while, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1.. Not sure if this might be causing this no start issues, CAT being gunked up over time.. Car has close to 240k miles on it..
Weird... make sure that the coolant temperature & ambient air temperature sensor readings are correct (should be similar temperature when cold). Disconnect the MAF... any difference? If you have no spark & no injector pulse, could be a crank sensor issue. Although fuel pressure seems ok, it could still be a bad pump. My routine after checking pressure, is to check the current draw with a scope (so I can see if the pump cuts out and how fast the pump spins).
@@EXOVCDS thank you for getting back to me, I did a dry compression test today, the results were Cyln #1 = 0 psi, Cyln #2 = 0 psi, Cyln #3 = 30 psi, Cyln #4 = 90 psi.. Based on this, it seems like a blown head gasket, didn't even bother doing a wet compression test, zero compression in first two cylinders.. A week or so prior to this, I had an overheat issue because I unscrewed the coolant cap to top off the fluid, but forgot to secure it tight. Complete dummy move, I know! So all the coolant spilled out while on the freeway causing an overheat, exited pulled in a gas station it seemed okay, after filling some water and allowing time to cool (I replaced the water with coolant once I got home)... However I should've done the compression test then, I guess the gasket was damaged, and perhaps the head is warped... I don't think I'm going to try to use those liquid gasket sealing products.. I'd do the head gasket job, have the head checked and resurfaced at a machine shop, but I'm not sure I want to dive any deeper in this rabbits hole with more money and time chasing the many hidden Gremlins.. The transmission I assume will fail next as it makes a whining noise, seems like the Chain on the CVT has stretched and put more stress on the pump... It's miracle it even survived 240k as I've heard the CVT's on these cars had high failure rate. It's been 17 long bittersweet years with this car, I think it's time to let her go.. . . 🚗 😔
Sorry to hear, must have gotten quite hot if it warped the head ... 17 years of ownership means she served you well. Most people down hold on to cars more than 6 years.
I am having the same issue. Tony did u fix the problem?
Check the basics first. Is the timing belt OK? Do the tdc marks actually line up? Fuel sample & pressure ok? Etc etc.
Year, make, model, engine? The more infoni have, the better I can help.
Hi Thomas do you know if the 1.8t crank sensor shares the same as the 3.0v6 model?
I'm pretty sure that they are different... I would have to check.
They are the same
I was trying to say I put one of my sensors on my crankshaft sensors do it did I need it to put both of them on because I already put all my spark plugs and my calls and my throttle body on but it want to fire up but the bank 1 sensor crankshaft popped on making it not fire up I guess
Shamekia White It should run with a bad camshaft position sensor. Test it... check if it is producing a signal. If a signal is present, then you gave to check timing belt timing (camshaft / crankshaft alignment). Camshaft sensor for bank 1 is the same for bank 2. Put sensor 2 on bank 1 and see if there is a difference.
Thomas I have code 2138 accelator position sensor ESP lights is on!!! MY 04 Audi A4 B6...Is this related to crank position sensor?
Check the wiring between the gas pedal sensor and the ECM... if wiring & connections are ok, it's the sensor or the ECM. Check for power at the sensor and for a changing signal (2 of them). Using a scan tool you can view pedal position values to confirm that there are faulty readings (hence the code).
@@EXOVCDS I have faulty accelator gas pedal sensor I guess need replace new thanks
How did you test it?
Did you drain the oil or is it fine to leave the oil in there? And is it possible that mine is bad because it runs fine 90% of the time but often it will turn over and not start and then when it finally starts it throws a epc code?
I don't think I drained the oil... haven't watched the video in a while. Crank sensors are usually not submerged in oil.
I have exactly the same issue. Did you ever replace the sensor and did it solve the problem with epc?
How much do you recon a sensor like that should cost? Because I get very different prices
Is it the same for the 3.0 too?
No... on the transmission bell housing... like on this 2.8L
th-cam.com/video/Bs2VKAynWhQ/w-d-xo.html
Thomas is this the sensor for cluster? My cluster is working and after 5 seconds stops working and going to 0
Engine rpm or vehicle speed?
Year, make, model, engine.
@@EXOVCDS thanks for answer rpm seems like it works maybe not 100% the speedometer every time I turn on the car works and after some seconds stop working and shows fault in brake system contact workshop . Audi A5 2009 transmission..
On diagnostic we can’t see any errors…
@@tedankouil2356 front left abs speed sensor could be bad if speedometer stops working.
My 2003 Audi 1.8 t quattro was starting but every morning wouldn't star that easy it takes like 6 times till the car star until one day the car star but was shaking then I turned of and then it wouldn't turn on.. do you know if it is the crank sensor or the cam shaft sensor .. ?
Check fuel pressure.
@@EXOVCDS fuel pressure is good
I don't have any spark at the spark plugs and the coils are new
@@ll_sch1zophr3ni4_ii9 how are you checking for spark? Any crank sensor fault codes in the ECM? I the ECM can't show an rpm signal, then yes, could be a faulty crank sensor.
Hi!, very nice videos, in my car vw 1.8T, VAGCOM msg: "vehicle speed sensor signal implausible", is that sensor??? thanks from argentina
Vehicle speed sensor is usually a transmission sensor / wiring issue. What is the exact code? Standard or automatic transmission? What year & model vehicle?
Thomas EXOVCDS
HI the codes 16885-P0501 - 35-00. manual transmision. vw bora called jetta in others country year 2011
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16885/P0501/001281
5 speed or 6 speed transmission(what production code)? If the transmission does not have a speed sensor, the front left ABS sensor is used to calculate speed. Check the ABS system for fault codes.
Thomas EXOVCDS
5 speed. how check abs? with vagcom? where is the location for this sensor. the speedometer works normally. no light in the instruments for abs
I was not aware that the speedometer is working correctly... strange that you would get a code then, maybe there is a sensor on the transmission... if it is bad, the car could be using the ABS signal to determine speed. Can you post a picture of your transmission (from the top) so I can see if there is a sensor?
Can this cause a cylinder #3 misfire ?
Crank sensors usually don't cause single cyl misfires... look at compression, spark plug, injector, valve springs etc.
hello! I have an 06 1.8 and the speedometer doesnt work and theres knocking from the back near transmission.. Will a bad speed sensor cause the transmission parts to knock??
This video is about the "engine speed sensor"... no speedometer operation has to do with the "vehicle speed sensor". No, a bad engine or transmission speed sensor should not cause knocking sounds. Check the transmission and the sensor connected to it for damage. You might have driven over something that caused damage to the sensor or wiring. Or a drive shaft caused separated and caused damage.
+Thomas EXOVCDS like the family you ran over looking at your display .
@@EXOVCDS Where can i find that speed sensor speedometer?
@@atiindacity year, make, model, engine, transmission? The more info I have, the better I can help.
@@EXOVCDSthanks for your response really appreciated. Yes, it's Audi A4 Quattro 2003 1.8T 4 cylinder.
Hey Thomas, trying to track down a long crank cold start. Recently replaced fuel pump (old pump was buzzing on prime), fuel filter (same time as pump), and timing belt. I have new plugs ordered and on the way as well as a new CPS. Will the Crank Position Sensor only remedy a warm long/no start scenario? Also to note, the long start began about 40 days after fuel pump and fuel filter replacement (no misfires or codes other than some emissions related codes which are self inflicted) . What else should I be looking into? Thanks I get a ton of value from your videos, keep them coming.
Year, make, model, engine? Most likely not a new pump issue if there is no warm starting issue. Verify that coolant temperature sensor values are close to ambient temperature sensor values before starting engine.
@@EXOVCDS , sorry, its a 2004 Audi A4 1.8t AMB. Thanks for the reply, I have been monitoring coolant temp vs ambient temp and it seems to be same (will double check on tomorrows commute). I don't have any issues with warm starts, or even after sitting 8 or so hours while at work. The long crank is more pronounced when the car sits over night, or more than a day (5-10 seconds of cranking before firing up).
@@casstransportllc8183 If temperature is the same, cycle the key a few times (no cranking) to build fuel pressure. Wait 10 seconds between each key cycle. If things are better when you do that, then it might be a fuel bleed off issue... I'm not sure if your fuel pump should cycle (one time) when the door is first opened.
@@EXOVCDS So this morning I confirmed the ambient temp and the temp sensor are reading the same. Cycling didn't seem to turn the engine over any quicker. I may have gotten lucky... I pulled a code this morning. 'P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal' Does this narrow it down to the CPS or plugs? Other than the recent long cold start, the car runs fine. No hesitation, no misfires, and a smooth idle. Thanks again for any insight you can provide.
P0322 can set when the crank sensor is bad (causing long cranking)... but it can also set when there's a fuel supply issue, or any "long cranking" time. You'll have to check sensor output voltage on a cold start, as well as attach a fuel pressure gauge so that you can monitor how quickly fuel pressure rises when cranking.
Should this cp-sensor be in a similar location on an A4 B5 1.6 litre? I think it's the same engine block as the 1.8.
And could the replacement be potentially carried out from underneath the car? It looks as if removing the oil filter is a vital part of the procedure.
The 1.6L was never an option for the North American market... If you tell me the engine production code, I can look up information as to where the sensor is located.
@@EXOVCDS Thanks Thomas, I'd really appreciate that. I had a feeling the 1.6 variant was not sold in North America. The engine code printed inside the spare wheel well is 'ALZ'.
Yes, it is in a similar / the same location as in this video. Here is an older video, showing the sensor on a 2.0L VW th-cam.com/video/ITHLsWa8v1w/w-d-xo.html
@@EXOVCDS Thanks for confirming that. I have just last week changed the engine oil and filter, but am thinking to take off the filter and drain and re-use the oil, so as to get better access to the sensor.. Will take another look from underneath the car tomorrow, and see what can be seen from there. It's good to narrow in on the correct location for this sensor. Thanks
@@antiochiaadtaurum3786 Let me know how i goes... I don't think you will have to remove the filter, but if it makes things easier, sure.
hey man! any idea on the location for my CAXC 1.4 tfsi audi a3 engine please? changed the cam sensor but my issue still persists. need to change crankshaft sensor now... please?
What issue? If the engine runs, then the sensor is ok.
@@EXOVCDS intermittent p0016 eml. Engine struggles to start only when sat overnight (check my uploads). Revs are sometimes low at idle but no stall. Fluctuate from 650 to 850 rpm in traffic. Slight vibrations on cabin....
@@cwacheats1234 check you cam/crank alignment (timing belt or timing chain).
@@EXOVCDS can a specialist do that if I get them to do a diagnostic check?
Yes. It could be that when the engine is cold, the timing chain tensioner loses pressure and allows the chain to relax. When you try to start the engine with a chain that is loose, the engine will run rough or not start, because timing (cam/crank) is not correct. If it gets too loose, the chain can skip and engine damage can occur.
Hey I have a 1998 Audi 1.8t automatic and I have a code p1565 it says throttle valve tight sticking isc actuator it says that the speed sensor could also be the problem but I was also wondering Would this make it not start? I have cleaned the tb and I'm going to get another one soon because it's not dirty just broke I guess!
I'm not sure if that code can prevent the engine from starting. Make sure that the throttle cable adjustment is not too tight. You can remove the cable to see if the code goes away or not. When did the code & no start occur? Both at the same time? Has the vehicle not been used for some time? The more info I have... the better I can guess as to what the problem might be.
@@EXOVCDS yea I'm not sure how long but now I'm getting codes for all the injectors two I just changed the altinator and new water pump and i removed the cat and changed the ecm and cam sensor checked all fuses and spark plugs it was sounding like it wanted to start when i primed it but it backfires bad it's almost running with the starter but then it just dies
The injectors work but not with the harness first was the throttle body code and now injectors
@@osiris122cf Is the fuel pump & fuel pump relay ok? The injectors get power from the fuel pump relay
@@EXOVCDS I'll check
Hey man! I’m having a problem with my Audi A4 b6. After the shop changed my oil and the filter, my car cranks but won’t start over. Is this the problem? Should I blame the shop for it? Lol please reply
If it starts after cooling down... could be a crankshaft position (engine speed) sensor issue. Could be a bad fuel pump. Problems with an oil change usually surface after the engine starts (leaks oil, engine is noisy)... oil changes don't cause no-starts. I have been in the same boat... crank sensor & fuel pump, both have kept cars from starting. Not the mechanics fault... you are lucky that it failed / is not starting in a shop. It could have left you stranded in the middle of nowhere. Have them look at it and tell you what the problem is.
Thomas EXOVCDS no sir, it never started after the shop changed the oil. It started perfectly fine before I changed the oil. That’s why I’m confused
We won't know what the reason is, until someone finds the problem. Too early to blame anyone.
Thomas EXOVCDS true. Alright thanks a lot sir
do you know what else can make my car not crank up
Shamekia White Starter not crank or no spark? Those are different issues. If your starter does not crank, spark plugs, coiils and camshaft sensors won't help.
Would this be the same on a a4 2.0t?
Crank sensor on the 2.0T is in a similar location, yes.
@@EXOVCDS thanks.
I'd say do an oil change at the same time so you can pull the oil filter out of the way
Customers will think even more that we are ripping them off... it looks worse than it is. I have several crank sensor videos for 1.8T's... can probably be done from the top like on the A4 B5's.
I have a 2.0 AWA engine Audi A4, I took the oil filter off to remove my sensor as I didn’t have any luck removing the inlet manifold bracket, I also had to remove my headlight to get to the wiring connector as it wasn’t under the coolant reservoir but located along side the block under the inlet manifold
Hi Thomas, you helped me troubleshooting a low boost P1556 code on my Audi A3 1.8T 2002 180HP a while ago, it was the wastegate rod that needed adjustment for more boost, thanks a lot for that. I'm getting the code 17743/P1335 - Engine Torque Monitor 2: Control Limit Exceeded (Intermittent), have you seen this one? I get this code VERY intermittently, I don't see any pattern to go with, it happens in low and high gears and revs. I don't get any other code, only this one that puts the car into limp mode. Can you help me troubleshoot it?
Hi... I haven't run into this code yet myself with 1.8T or other engines. Here's some info / possible things to check (not sure if you have already come across that info).
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17743/P1335
All I can suggest (if it is very intermittent), to wait until it becomes more frequent or repeatable. If you can recreate the conditions at which it sets, you can go through live engine data to see what you can spot (before & during the conditions that the fault is set). If the ECM stored "freeze frame data", driving within those parameters (engine speed, throttle position / load, vehicle speed, engine temperature) will give you a better chance of recreating the fault. If my service info has specific info on P1335, I'll let you know.
I don't have info for you year / model specifically (we didn't get A3's till the 2nd generation).
1.8T info on P1335 only says to check MAF sensor.
Data log actual & specified values to see if they are similar. Check the connector for loose or corroded contacts.
@@EXOVCDS I have the snap-on scanner and already tried recreating the fault while monitoring air temp, coolant temp, maf, boost (specified and actual), throttle position, lambda control and voltage. Everything seemed ok, and unfortunately I couldn't replicate the fault, and also spent half a gas tank while doing it, yikes. This code seems to represent a sensor fault (which should give me another code and cause constant incorrect readings, which isn't happening) or an air leak after the MAF (unmetered air).
@@EXOVCDS on the maf sensor, there's a loose pin on the conector, but it sits tight while connected. I'll check the harness and replace it if necessary. Will re-do the specified vs actual boost test.
Hello I have a 04 Audi Quattro, I replaced my battery an when I crank it, it doesn’t stay started..I can give it the gas but it’s like it’s not getting any...could it be my throttle or my crankshaft all I know is I need it working...
Battery replacement should cause any running issues aside from a possible idle relearn. Off idle / higher rpm / power should not be affected. If you have a scan tool, check for fault codes. Make sure that the battery + & - are in the correct place.
I also wanted to add after cranking it is showing the battery light
An yes the battery is in the correct place
@@billieledford1527 Battery light when the engine is running? It's normal for the battery light to be on if / when the engine stalls.
I drive it daily, all I did was hook it to a friends lawnmower after that it started having issues staying started...it would die on my going down the road..I got it jumped off several times till it couldn’t get jumped no more. Then my friend took the battery out to test it an it’s a 12 v battery (it was only reading 6v’s) so I got another battery...before the new battery my driver side window wouldn’t role up, I thought I had to replace the motor on it... after the new battery there’s nothing wrong! When I turn the key over all lights come on like normal, it starts up, but it’s like when I give it gas it barely takes it an just shuts off....
It’s a 1.8 sorry
What kind of lawn mower? + to + - to -?
Something got fried... my initial gut feeling, whenever someone has issues after jumping a battery.
I connected my car to the lawnmower
Hi I was trying to find a solution to a few codes that have recently came up after getting Trans oil change and keep landing on speed sensor replacement it studers from complete stop and go and starts up rough would these codes lead to this needing to be replaced?
P173400
P072600
U112300
Any helps appreciated thank you
Any faults after a trans oil change... usually point to an internal problem with the transmission. Fresh fluid does not have the friction material that has worn off over time from the clutch packs... resulting in shifting issues. Year, make, model, engine, transmission? I'm not an automatic tech, but I might be able to point you to one.
Does this fix epc?
Maybe. There are several things that can turn the EPC light on.
Does an auto differ from a manual
No.
if the charcole canister its bad make hard start
Armando Hilario Disconnect the purge valve and plug it. See if you still have issues. The purge valve vents the canister.
Well, at least they didn't lock the sensor pigtail between the block and the oil cooler like they did with the VR6! ...Or maybe that was just mine? LOL
Sometimes you have to think... what were THEY thinking!
I have a 2001 1.8t passat I'm having a problem with, when trying to start it, the engine doesn't want to turn over, other times it starts on the first or second crank, check engine light is on and and the code is po341... any clue what might be the problem?
"Not turning over" = not cranking.
When it does NOT start... does it crank / turn over (but not run), or does it NOT crank / turn over?
These are two different issues.
If the engine can start & run sometimes and a p0341 code is present, then there is an issue with the camshaft position sensor. The camshaft position sensor "should not" prevent the engine from cranking / turning over.
Sorry for the misunderstanding, the car does start at times, sometimes after 1 or 2 attempts other times it just cranks & cranks & cranks until I finally give up, the code po341 pops up when I connect my scanner, like you said it's the camshaft position sensor which I already replaced but the code stands, I'll erase the code only to have it come on the next time I start the car
Saul Limon Leave it disconnected and see if things change (code will set, but that's ok). If it starts better every time... continue investigating the camshaft / crankshaft alignment / timing. If no change, also check camshaft / crankshaft alignment as well as cam sensor wiring / output signal.
Would you happen to have a link to the sensor wiring? As far as where the connections are made, I disconnected the camshaft position sensor and started the car after maybe two cranks, after doing so the code po343 came up, which is high input on the camshaft...
Saul Limon I'm not at home right now... will send you a link later. The ecm sends a voltage to the cam sensor and the cam sensor changes that voltage into a high / low signal that the ecm uses for cylinder identification. When the sensor I'd disconnected, the voltage stays high (normal). I just wanted to know if the long long cranking / no start remains. If no, then the signal (when the cam sensor is plugged in) is maybe confusing the ecm. When the sensor is not connected, the ecm relies on a preprogrammed signal so it should start better than an engine with a bad signal.
Hi... This model have N80 valve? If yes where is the location?? Thanks
a.d-cd.net/LzQlTWQHb2cTiQUttdKJ5eyjhBw-960.jpg
🙏🙏
@@EXOVCDS idle cold is bad.. some times engine stops... Fault rich bank 1 ... When was cold
How is the idle once the engine is warm?
@@EXOVCDS its ok... Some times the idle cold is ok too... When i accelerate the engine i hear some noise from returning air something like clo clo.)) The cylinder pressure is 4 cycles open throttle with out plugs is 2 cylinder 11 bar and 2 10.5 bar.. the vagoum is in the normal pressures and stable . But when i accelerate fast the neadle mooves but when the accelerate stops and i am 2400 rpm the neadle of instrument is stable to the normal vaccun levels... I dont have any vaccum in crankshaft.. which I measure on the oil dipstick...
Ok ty but it only stays running for a couple seconds..an when it shuts off that’s when the light comes on ...I was just saying when I try to start it, I try to give it gas and it doesn’t seem to wanna catch..stalls out anyway...I have to pump the gas repeatedly really fast to keep it started...that’s why all the questions I’m sorry!
I understand all that... I was just saying the battery light has nothing to do with the engine not running / stalling. If the engine / starter crank OK, then the battery is healthy. As I mentioned before... If you have a scan tool, check for fault codes. That might help determine what is going on. Why did you replace the battery? When was the last time the car ran normal? Was the car sitting for several days, weeks, months? The more information I have, the better I can "guess" as to what the problem might be. Could be fuel related... fuel pump, pressure. What engine?
It is a 1.8 sorry
Another faulty crank sensor... sorry, intermittently faulty crank sensor. =)
Thomas EXOVCDS hi would this cause an audi b7 to go slow?
Can this sensor cause a no start? Or super intermittent start with gutless acceleration?
@@TheOxbowCabin No start yes. Gutless acceleration, not so much (that I have come across).
@@raulfrancisco7915 Sorry Raul, I don't know why I did not get a notice for your question last year. A faulty crank sensor is usually not the cause of "lack of power".
Everything on that job is done by feel or mirror .
Can be done from underneath... which might help some, but is also a pain because the subframe is in the way.
Que falla da ese sensor?
El motor no arranca / marcha
ok muchas gracias por su repuesta
hello i have the epc and esp light comming on in my audi 2002 do u have any idea what the problem would be and if it has anything to do with the speed sensor ?
Don't know... scan for fault codes. Once you have the fault code(s), I can take a guess as to what the problem might be. Any symptoms? No power, staling, not starting, high / low idle etc?
HI,
Does that sensor sit on the bellhousing or the engine block?
1.8T engine? In the block.
i change the purge valve solenoid but the car its same
I know... you said that. You asked about the charcoal canister. I said that the purge valve controls charcoal canister venting. I said to disconnect & plug the purge valve hose to see if the hard starting still happen. Disconnecting & plugging eliminates both the charcoal canister & purge valve. So your problem is not the charcoal canister or the purge valve... because the problem still happens.
Ok went put the Key on position for 5 secon turn off and again turn on start right away
Armando Hilario Then your fuel is draining back into the tank over night... causing long cranking until fuel pressure is enough.
I think I mentioned checking fuel pressure quite some time ago.
Yes
You said desconec feed line & i have turn the ignition on i have to see gas come out
No room to do that on the 2002 audi a6 3.0l v6. You must do it through the wheel well on the driver's side. Also routing the sensor is a nightmare. It goes through a puece of heat insulation, behind aluminum shields and between other hoses and cables... it is shaise.
@HristovRumen thank you for letting all 1.8T A4 owners watching this video know, that it is different for people with V6 engines. Not many people these days would know that V6 & inline 4 cylinder engines are different... let alone the vehicle in question. Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS sorry thomas if this sounded like a foolish comment. I only said it because very recently I did a sensor swap on one of those and I wished it was a 4 cylinder. Didn't say it to pick arguments or fights here. Ofcourse they're completely different beasts. It's what I meant as well.
@HristovRumen I forgot to add a smiley face emoji at the end of my reply, sorry. I too didn't mean to stir something up.
Have read many comments over the years, of people assuming things are the same / in the same place on different engines. Even comments about American / Domestic vehicles... "is the process the same?". The operating principle is the same, but the location, look of the part etc, quite different. So I guess stuff gets to me subconsciously, again, sorry. =)
sound like a dentist once he start using that drill.
Paul Kolotov you are right... he does.
if take to long to add fuel its bad fuel pump
I don't know... maybe.
Hello. I Have A 2003 A4 Quattro That Is Reading Vehicle Speed Sensor. Would That Be In The Transmission? My Speedometer Doesn’t Work And The Abs Light Is On But Doesn’t Make A Noise Or Anything. Any Suggestions?
Possible front left wheel speed sensor issue... on vehicles that don't have a speed sensor at the transmission, the front left abs speed sensor is used to indicate vehicle speed. Scan the ABS (all modules) and go from there.
Thomas EXOVCDS Very Helpful Thanks!
Some day things that break will be on top in easy reach. And pigs will have wings. lol
Hit the nail on the head!
It was like a zero turn
Keep the comments under each other... easier to follow replies that way.
Could have been a voltage spike / surge that fried something. Not sure though.
Ok then is there anyway to fix the problem that u can think of ...?
I don't know what the problem is, so I can't recommend what to do. Like I said, check for fault codes... a FULL system scan (all modules) would be best.. any additional information (from modules / codes) might help you determine what is wrong. Disconnect the alternator charging cable (at the battery or at the alternator)... does it make a difference?
I haven’t disconnected the alternator yet..an I do have a scan tool it’s a Schwaben for Audi/Volvo
OK, let me know what more information you can find / gather.
Thomas you’re my Dad
That's what she said!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for watching!
A
B
17524
17887
17579
17748
these showed up on the scan test
the car doesnt go higher than 1500 rpm when they light on
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17524/P1116/004374
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17887/P1479/005241
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17579/P1171/004465
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17748/P1340/004928
I don't think that the first two codes have anything to do with the issue... so start with / check the last two.
Thank you