Power grease gun usually results in pushing the inner seal off especially when you don't rotate hub while greasing. Really coats the brakes nicely. Been there done that.
good lord, leaving it tight is asking for trouble. Back off 1/6 turn, then its near zero with a little room for grease when it's hot. Cotter pins are cheaper than dirt.
Good video, but I wanted to point out semi bearings are not torqued to 250 lbs. You would burn it up very quickly if you did that. There is a technical process I believe you first torque it to 250 but it must be backed off. However the only right way to do it is not by torquing it because torque can not be precise because grease, or dirt can change the pressure it puts on the bearings. If you want to do it truly right, you need a run out gauge and you would then check for the specified end play for that specific bearing. That's the only way you would ever properly 100% set these types of bearings. However, almost no one really does that. The best way is to tighten as you spin as much as you can. Then back off, then repeat, tighten and spin to ensure it's seated. Then back it off 1-2 flats is typical shop procedure. Loose cone bearings are better then tight ones. I had a trailer with loose bearings and I drove it cross country before I found out and they were fine. But tighten them up, you may find yourself stranded in an hour or less. People make a huge deal out of setting preload on these. They are very easy and the tolerance honestly isn't extremely critical like on other bearings that need to be spot on. These have a little wiggle room
Slightly more than finger tight is better. Finger tight increases the chance for looseness later on which tapered wheel bearings should not have. Done this for 51 years.
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Power grease gun usually results in pushing the inner seal off especially when you don't rotate hub while greasing. Really coats the brakes nicely. Been there done that.
Dexter specifically says to tighten to 50 ftlbs while turning, back off, then tighten finger-tight.
Timken says you only want the hub half full of grease.
good lord, leaving it tight is asking for trouble. Back off 1/6 turn, then its near zero with a little room for grease when it's hot. Cotter pins are cheaper than dirt.
A new pin is 50 cents or less
Reusing cotter pins is a very bad practice.
Good video, but I wanted to point out semi bearings are not torqued to 250 lbs. You would burn it up very quickly if you did that. There is a technical process I believe you first torque it to 250 but it must be backed off. However the only right way to do it is not by torquing it because torque can not be precise because grease, or dirt can change the pressure it puts on the bearings. If you want to do it truly right, you need a run out gauge and you would then check for the specified end play for that specific bearing. That's the only way you would ever properly 100% set these types of bearings. However, almost no one really does that. The best way is to tighten as you spin as much as you can. Then back off, then repeat, tighten and spin to ensure it's seated. Then back it off 1-2 flats is typical shop procedure. Loose cone bearings are better then tight ones. I had a trailer with loose bearings and I drove it cross country before I found out and they were fine. But tighten them up, you may find yourself stranded in an hour or less. People make a huge deal out of setting preload on these. They are very easy and the tolerance honestly isn't extremely critical like on other bearings that need to be spot on. These have a little wiggle room
Slightly more than finger tight is better. Finger tight increases the chance for looseness later on which tapered wheel bearings should not have. Done this for 51 years.