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How to adjust wheel bearings.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2020
- This video discusses how tapered roller bearings that are repackable are adjusted. These are common in the front of many rear wheel drive vehicles and the rear of some older front wheel drive vehicles. Please consult your service manual for specific specifications.
We Have a Winner, I looked at a dozen videos on how to tighten the adjusting nut on the bearing and yours was the absolute best !
Thank you. I am so glad you found the video helpful. Have a great day! :)
Spot on, I seen another video just before and this guy tightened with a shifter as tight as he could, then backed it off and repeated. I couldnt believe it, this other guy was crushing the bearings. Its great to see one like this that is spot on.
Good, concise video with no useless, irrelevant chatter. Thanks.
Thank you. I appreciate your feedback.
sheesh! I've been looking for this all over and couldn't get a straight answer. This is great, thank you!
Very straigh-forward, useful video. Thank you!
Good to know how much slack/tight adjustments, ie
tightepreload turning then loosen then slight finger tight or back up to next hole .😊
Exactly what I was looking for. Thankyou
amazing looked all over for this simple information well presented
Thank you. I am glad you found it helpful. :)
Best I've seen.
Looks like moving, disturbing, or rotating the wheel after seating, loosening, then tightening to 5 inch lbs is a no-no
Seat/loosen/tighten to 5 inch lbs without rotating.
If so, I've been doing it wrong 😳
Thank you 👍
Hi, Randy. Thank you for your kind comment. You have a keyed safety washer before the nut, so moving the rotor shouldn't influence the adjustment and can actually assist in getting a good feel. The main thing to take away is that once you have seated the bearing and backed it off, you just then adjust it until the play is gone and add a tiny bit just to ensure all the play all out,. Keep in mind that some cars may have threads that are marred and this could affect the proper adjustment feel. A person should grab the rotor and verify that there is little to no wobble on the rotor following adjustment. As an extra note, sometimes spindle wear can cause unexpected rotor movement even following a good adjustment, so spindles should be checked for wear and marking if this is the case. Note that each car will have a spec that may vary slightly, but the rule of thumb generally does the trick well.
@@bensiemers5094 I replaced one spindle last year. The replacement from a wrecking yard was like brand new. All is good there.
The other spindle has a groove on its 'thrust' surface from the bearing rotating, obviously.
Could that be simply because of the age, because I've always had the bearings too tight or maybe even had the bearings too loose? My S-10 has 288,000 miles on it.
I had that spindle wear problem on my 66 Chevy, and I also had that problem on my 73 chevy step side and now I've had that on my 93 S-10.
The key factor here is all these vehicles had quite a few miles on them. For that reason I'm just curious if it's an adjustment issue or if it's just an age issue.
Is this a common issue because of age or is this improper tightening of the bearing? The inner race obviously has to spin to make that groove in the hub, but I don't know if that's somewhat normal in a vehicle with a lot of miles.
Thank you for your prompt reply.
288 000 miles is a good amount of running, so it likely is just worn from a well-used life. The inner bearing race is designed to creep slightly around the spindle to prevent the rollers from wearing flat spots on the race due to load. They don't spin fast, but the slip-on fit intentionally permits slow creeping. A little grease applied to the spindle initially provides lubrication to reduce wear. If the bearings run dry, though, it would accelerate spindle wear. They do slightly wear over time, even under the best conditions.
@@bensiemers5094 Thanks, Ben. The spindle is fine, it's the flat end that the inner bearing race is against, the thrust surface that the seal is on.
I'm gonna guess age.
Best wishes Randy. Happy wrenching.
Good job 👏 👍 👌
Excellent , this is all I need to know. Thanks
Thanks so much for your comment.
Yup, snug and tightened, thanks!
Wanna hear what my dad used to say? Don't take my advise as gospel. But my dad used to routinely pack his wheel bearings back in the old days when we were kids. If my memory is good, But he used to seat the bearings and spin hub like you do then back off about a 1/4 turn or so.. Also he used to check his hubs for heat when we drove long distance. And one thing he said, if I remember correctly was this. If the hub was getting hot , and you need to adjust the bearing. Most people want to loosen the nut a little thinking it's too tight and causing it to heat up.. But what he told me what you should do is tighten the nut ever so slightly just a little bit. This should make the bearings run cooler. Once I was moving from the east coast to the west coast driving an old Chevy truck. So I repacked the bearings and put it all back together. When I set out ( loaded down and pulling a trailer full of belongings) I kept checking my hubs. One was running a lot hotter than the other so I stopped and did what I had learned. And I tightened the bearing nut just a little. Like an 1/8th or 1/4 turn tighter and it ran a lot cooler. So It seemed to work. Not sure if you ever heard this or common knowledge among mechanics thanks
I think there are a lot of different techniques people use in an attempt to get close to correct preload. The goal, however, on these types of bearings is to just get rid of the play, and not add any considerable torque on the bearing nut as this can cause overheating. In contrast, under-adjusting wheel bearings can cause wheel wobble and can cause the brake pads to push the caliper pistons back into their bores, resulting in a low brake pedal feel. Manuals are very good at outlining the procedure and those procedures work very effectively, without having to resort to readjustment. Thank you for your comments.
@@bensiemers5094 ya I was just interested in if you ever ran into the idea of if running hot, to tighten a smudge rather than the idea of "oh I need to loosen it a little" philosophy. Thanks. When you are doing this type of work and don't have all the gages and wrenches for proper settings and specs.
Hi Bill, I can appreciate a lack of gauges for sure. I have seen quite a few different things for sure in the farm community and from home handymen. Feeling bearing temp has been one of them in regards to assessing load on bearing from one side to another. Thanks, Bill
@@billtmarchi4320 you haven't set the world on fire with your info here, it's pretty common knowledge
Exceptional!!
Thank you. Happy it was helpful. :)
I do is,most wheel bearings between the nut and the bearing have a washer,that washer between the shaft have a gap,first I tighten the nut until the washer won't move by a screwdriver, make sure 12:00 4:00 and 8:00,all need to use the screwdriver to move,and don't damage the bearing,and then loose the nut about 5° each time until the washer start to move .I do this way from a car to big truck,hope this can help people they don,t have special tools.
That is a nice practice too Alan. Yeah - we don't want to load the bearing during adjustment. Thank you for your comment.
@@bensiemers5094 I learn it from government workshop,another way to adjust is ,after you over tighten the bearing,spinning the wheel,eyes watch the tire u til it stop,it should move back a little, it mean too tight,same loose 5° each until the tire won't move back.
Need are good eyes :)
You can balance wire tyre,like bicycle and motorcycle use eyes.
Thanks for videos
You are so welcome.
I use hardened valve spring shims when a castle nut is too loose from backing up to align cotter pin. The shim goes under the nut between the nut and keyed washer.
Is that really where it goes?? Really??? Why wouldn't it go on top of the nut? 🤔
AWESOME
Do you need to recheck these after so many miles?
Repackable wheel bearings should be checked for play when you do routine oil changes and maintenance. Manufacturers' recommendations will vary but the range of about 25,000 to 30,000 miles is likely in the ballpark.
@@bensiemers5094 ok thank you man
Trying it…
What if you need to tighten it (significantly) more (like 20ft lb) in order to get rid of play? (But it still spins just as freely when “extra” tight)
You have to be careful here and make sure that you are first referring to a repackable, adjustable bearing and not a bearing that is a sealed non-adjustable bearing that does require a fairly high torque spec. Always look up your vehicle's specifications and procedures to verify. If you are referring to an adjustable bearing (greaseable), these bearings should not have a torque load of much more than a few inch pounds after being set properly. If play remains, then your spindle likely has wear on it and is causing your bearing to wiggle up and down on it. The solution is, in this case, to replace the spindle that is causing the issue and not to tighten it further. In some cases the hub will be worn out and the bearing races can be loose in them causing the play. If this happens, replace the hub. If you do not see exposed tapered roller bearings as being separate from their races, but rather the bearing that is sealed, you are looking at non-adjustable bearings and these must be torqued to a fairly high value (research specs).
@@bensiemers5094 They are adjustable. Front bearings on a 90s ford van. Youre probably right its probably the spindle… although when I installed them originally the spindles seemed smooth by sight and touch. 219k miles though. Could also be “normal” very slight play I guess. I’ll reset them with less torque and just deal woth the slight play. Thank you!
Is it possible for a wheel bearing to spin on the spindle if it fails or was improperly installed?
Good question. The inner race is actually intended to creep around the spindle slowly as it is driven to prevent a flat spot from developing where the load is. So lubrication on the spindle is essential. A rough damaged bearing, or incorrectly adjusted one, could increase the creep rate where the inner race spins excessively on the spindle and causes spindle damage.
@@bensiemers5094 what would constitute excessive spinning? Since it’s a pretty tight fit but not pressed on grease will definitely get between the spindle and the tapered bearing race. I figured they spun a bit at least but the friction with the weight on the bearing was enough where the rollers did most of the spinning.
I am in the habit of packing grease around the nut and in the cap. More=Better... However... I notice you did neither. Not necessary? Causes Problems?
I believe I did mention in the video that I usually do, but for sake of demonstration I just gestured it. It is primarily to prevent corrosion in the cap. It is optional, but not a bad idea. Applying a bit of grease to the nut and safety washer is not a bad thought as well, although, usually with handling, the nut and safety washer gets some grease on it. Saying that, I haven't seen too many caps with rusting in them through the years, unless someone has really been in a lot of extreme conditions and has lacked doing maintenance. Great comment. Thank you.
@@bensiemers5094 Great Video! I really appreciate the time to setup/film/edit. It is awesome to be able to learn from someone who knows!
There is no torque on this hub nut so why is a Ford transit hub tigthtened to 420nm?
That is because the Ford Transit uses a non-adjustable type bearing that is designed with sealed, double-bearing design which prevents the tightening load from being directly placed on the bearing rollers themselves.
The specific bearings I am giving instructions on are adjustable repackable bearings used in vehicles that were not of the front-wheel drive or modern all-wheel drive design. Utility trailers also use adjustable bearings. There are some older front-wheel drive vehicles where the rear wheel bearings were repackable and adjustable. You can tell that you have an adjustable bearing because they will have tapered roller bearings, and visible grease with a bearing cap. The roller bearings, cage, and inner races are removable by finger from and their outer races that are pressed into the bearing hub.
Thank you for your quick response, it's nice to see a true professional at work 👍
When I slid the wheel bearing on my vehicle it was hard to spin . Please, what is that and why.
A few things to check. Ensure there is no bearing damage and cage damage. I have seen people reverse one of their bearings. If the bearing is over tightened it will cause drag. Brakes incorrectly installed could also happen as could a bent brake shield.
So a few things to rule out. Best wishes
Ben Siemers , well here’s my story I have a 2015 F150 4 x 4 I had a large pothole enough to bend my Front passenger rim !!!! I started hearing a lot of noise and change the wheel bearing and of course my rim too . now the same wheel is hard to turn
Hi Andre, without me actually being able to inspect each part and see how the assembly has gone, I really can't be confident in providing too much more details. 4x4 vehicles have a bit different bearing set up than conventional 2 wheel drive and it is important that the adjustment is performed to spec and that the lock when installed doesn't alter the adjustment of the bearing or excess drag will occur. I would also suggest taking the brake calliper off to ensure that the drag is in the bearing itself. Seal installation is also very important. If it isn't at the right depth, it can cause a drag. Bearing part numbers, I am assuming, are correct, but worth double checking. If you struck the wheel hard enough, it is also possible that the spindle, steering knuckle or control arm have been compromised. If the rotor has been moved inward from its proper position, it is possible that it could force the CV shaft inward and potentially put load on the wheel bearing. You may have to bring your vehicle into a licensed professional to better assess, if you are not able to pin point the problem. Best wishes.
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This 1998? 😂