Rui Deng DPS-5015 Buck Converter - Tomtop (part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- A look at the Rui Deng DPS-5015 www.tomtop.com/...
Tomtop website: www.tomtop.com/...
What would you like in part two? I'm thinking of putting the full 60V into the converter's input :)
"Includes Paid Promotion" in this video means that the buck converter was kindly provided by Tomtop at no cost to me - there were no cash incentives for me to make this video.
Hi Julian,
I got this one to for 3 months now, and it works great,
Have not yet tested at max load, but had no problems with 300 watts @ 33volts with 100watt leds.
used a 35volt 800watts psu as source.
ordered it after your video on the dps-3012
Quite capable little buck converter. Apperantly a nice way to turn for example an old 48V power supply into adjustable bench power supply.
I purchased one of these along with a 48V 3A power supply to feed it. I mounted it into an aluminium enclosure with the control unit mounted in the front panel.
I wound 48V supply up to 55V so DPS-5015 can supply up to 50V.
Pros:
Works great and can supply 12V at 10A. Regulation is
I used wide band on oscilloscope (>20MHz) Ripple was at 65kHz and I saw short 1us spikes at leading edge of ripple. Regulation was measured at 5V for 0 to 10A load change.
I just got one of those today and have been tinkering with it, i'm really liking it so far. The only strange thing is that is always shows a current of 0.02A when the unit is turned on even with no output connected, also tallying up the Watts accordingly. I'm wondering if mine is just badly calibrated or if the device is measuring its own power draw.
Hi Julian I found the screws holding down the heat sink where to large and where not tighting the heat sink tight on to the mosfets you could slide paper under the mosfet and heat sinks I had to put washers on the screws
Great video! Do you think the published efficiency is correct? or more Chinese maths?
the efficiency is about 97% at full load
I ordered a DPH3205 a week or so ago. Hope it'll be a decent bench power supply for the shed. Looking forward to part 2
That looks nice - I want one. A shoot out between that and the Ming He D3806 would be entertaining :)
Julian Ilett :-)
Hi! I'm interested in getting one of these converters, but I'm hoping you would do a couple more tests: first of all, scope the output to see how much noise there is. Second, can you use it to put something like 10-15A through a short circuit? I'd like to test some wiring and e.g. cheap relays, to see if they can handle the current they claim to be rated for. But I suspect many power supplies won't deliver a large current to a very low resistance, making the output voltage 0.1V or even less.
that looks like a nice bit of kit, combined with a old server PSU it should make a nice bench power supply.
yes, it is. this is also my idea. it is very convient. and the total price is very cheaper than a normal power supply
On the last part of the vid you mentioned about heat of the board at max current draw. Have you considered buying one of the smartphone attachable thermal imaging cameras?
+Tera Volt Funny you should say that...
I really like mine. Right now I'm using it to charge a 4s 60ah LiFePO4 bank from a solar array.
The only problem I've yet to work out is when the input falls below 1.1* the output and the device shuts down.
This can happen during some thick cloudy conditions as I'm also charging 48v packs with mpt-7210s.
There's an instructable from a guy why figured out how to use an Arduino to spoof button presses on the DPS5015, so maybe that's worth a try.
+julianilett That looks like a really nice unit. Perhaps the warning about attention to heat is just a reminder not to block the ventilation.
What I'd like to see in part two is short circuit tests- what happens if you 'accidentally' short your custom wirewrap assembly. Genuine accidental shorts are bound to happen in real world use of a bench psu.
I ordered one of these and installed it into a empty pc power supply as a sort of bench setup , Its quite good but i dont like the yellow buttons much as you really have to squeeze them , I might consider soldering some proper/better buttons to it. also when you adjust the voltage in real time if you idle too long it sort of locks at that figure then you have to press a button again.
Thanks! Where is part2 ?? Give it 60V input to see how its doing. Its probably a good choise for solar charging with bigger panels and an Voc > 48 V. Most simple converters go up to 36 or 40 V input and are in many cases even overstressed at that voltage (due to 5V voltage regulator on board rated for 30V only)
With such high conversion efficiency these should be able to run at 15 amps continuously with no problem as long as there is good cooling.
Very nice! Yea, ALWAYS NEED TO HAVE MORE POWER so keep going (might require a 20A input fuse to be givin' you all she's got, captain) and please get a metal heat shield and provide an ample air space to save that cutting mat (so I can stop squirming and shouting).
Will it protect itself from excess input current? Try feeding it with a beefy PC 12V PSU or car battery with lots of CCAs and see... Love the product/design/value, so far...
Your shop/lab absolutely needs fire fighting/response equipment and an evacuation plan in case the electron battle is lost and the outcome leads to rapid oxidation.
They should add a promo link to reviewers of the product to give to watchers :D
I'd buy one but I like the 1602 LCD 60v 5A one better, but I want 10A... Maybe I'll get the 10A version
Nice find! Did you use a tester to verify the amperage, voltage and watts? I've found plenty to be way off could you please?
I bought the same. What I now need is an acceptable case for it. Not too big.
I use a 24V 15A supply on the primary side.
oh wait, I have a different model. RD DPS3012
same size, don't worry
Hello. Just going to pick everyone's brain here. What would be the best way to limit DC current. I have a 24volt source and I only want to let my load draw 10-15 amps. Without some way to limit it,It will run up to 22-25 amps. I don't need any boost or step down in voltage.Thank you in advance
I got one a while ago. Created a 3D printed case, and attached an old up laptop psu and it made a great lab psu
very good, did you make a video ?
They now sell DPH-3205 wich is a buck-boost converter, will you review it ?
Yes, OK
I got the DPS 5020, awesome kit
DPS 5020 Just came in the mail. I am so AMMPPED!!
What I would like in part two? The same things as for the DPS3012. I'm still waiting for a part two on that. :P
If I remember correctly, you wanted me to check for voltage overshoot on switch on.
Among other things, yes (I'm not the only one who commented there and the comments are still there ;) ). Everything about the dynamic behaviour would be interesting. What happens on sudden load changes, how quickly does over current protection kick in, how stable/noisy is the output? ... and stuff like that.
I have an alternate idea for testing high current like that (at 12V). It's what I do. Connect the output of the buck converter to a pure sine wave inverter and then you can attach various things in your house to achieve a high current for testing :)
Actually, my Christmas trees and other decorations that have LEDs are all being powered from a 24V pure sine wave inverter that is connected to two SLA batteries in series, just like you have. I'm not using a buck converter in this instance since it's a 24V inverter but I actually might want to consider it because sometimes my inverter errors out when I turn off a large load like a space heater. The voltage must be spiking and the stupid inverter has too low of a tolerance on voltage. I wish I could adjust that tolerance to above 30V.
Hi friend . our module is not suitable to connect this 24V pure sine wave . 24V pure sine wave is suitable to connect the battery
I am awaiting delivery of the DPS3012 version.
This model has a max output of 32V at 12A. I am confused about the source needed to give the max output. Given the 1.1 ratio requirement, a 36v input would be ok but how many Amps do I require? Julian's 5A fuse didn't blow until the output was ~11A. Can anyone explain what is going on here and how I can calculate the requirement?
Alan London if you want to use the full 32v@12a then you need 36v@ around 15 a as input
Thanks for reviewing this. I've been considering getting the 5005. The documentation states there is 1 milliamp limit resolution, is this correct or is it more like 10 milliamp?
yes, friend , for DPS5015, resolution is 0.01A
you can never have enough buck converters, beginning to end up like bigclive with these reviews:)
Sounds like a compliment to me :)
Hi, i have got a question. Why does the last fuse (10A) not melt when you use 5 Lamps which draw 15Amps ?
There's more voltage on the input side (and correspondingly less current).
You could put a power meter on the input and output side of the thing, just like on the solar controllers, to see the input voltage, current and power, and output voltage, current and power. It would demonstrate what happens.
maybe i dont understand exactly how fuses work, but if a fuse is rated for 5A and he is putting way over 5A through the circuit why doesnt the fuse blow? (eventually it did but not until he went even higher, same with the 10amp fuse)
about the fuse, you said 20A fuse on output? only you connect the battery with reverse polarity, the fuse can be burnt. at normally working it will not burnt even at 15A
New enhanced wire wrap technique. That made me chuckle.
? you don't satisfy?
PLEASE don't end so suddenly. I've asked this before, but your endings are even more sudden. Just when I'm about to hit the 'like' button, I'm whisked off to another video.
Hello, I want to use this as CC mode 5W LED driver, what frequency LED will have at very dim compared to very bright stetting. Can you or anyone else measure it with the scope.
would you ever do a review of something like a midnite or outback charge controller?
Sure, when I get my mediterranean workshop ;)
+Julian Ilett Never mind thanks for changing your mind
Doing it right now :)
Thank for review of this DPS-5015 !
if you need, you can make order , we are manufacturer
I want one of these big boys but I don't know how to power it easily being 750watt
I bought a similar one with the same specs except there is no external board as it is all packed in the back of the display!
behemothinferno
Hi friend . I guss you did not buy the same product.
Part 2 two try it with 55-60v input voltage.. and then test it... Seems very good for DIY lab power supply.. Im waiting to see this kind of tehnology to progress and one day we might see cheap modules that can do 0-80v 10-15A.. Now that would be crazy stuff .. I would use that thing daily! e bike charger , lab power supply anything you imagine...
The max input voltage is 60V, as tested by lygte, and it works very well.
@Rd tech
can u use these off one psu in series to get high voltage
When you test these board why do you never load them to the maximum specs for what they are rated at?
Probably lack of equipment. Really an electronic load is required to fully test PSU's.
and the second part???
why you tick the "it contains paid advertisement" in almost all videos?
If I receive the item free of charge
Can it be used like a bench top power supply?
+Brainstorm4300
you only add AC-DC power supply , it is a real power supply. and if combine them together, it is a good power supply and cheaper
It certainly could, but do you need high current for that? If not, it's going to be little if any more expensive to buy one ready made, it a nice ergonomic case with tested thermal capacity, ready to use. This model sells for $36, then figure "maybe" $50 (or maybe a lot more) for a 48V/15A PSU, while you can get a 30VDC, 10A, AC mains powered bench top supply complete for about $50 on eBay.
Plus I don't see the point of having two stages of PSU. If you happened to already have a suitable DC output power source that's one thing to save money, but to buy something then incur the losses of AC-DC AND then DC-DC, to me that's drifting towards enough loss that I'd think about whether I'd rather a much lower ripple, linear supply for bench top use, thinking that for true bench top use it's mostly testing purposes, where you might want really clean power for some things, but won't be running it 24/7 like you might a purpose specific PSU.
I think im going to have to pick one of those up!
"Pay attention to heat elimination" probably means "don't wrap it in a blanket"..
But it's a sneaky bit of wording, liability wise. Just carry a photo of your fridge with you, and you should be set.
in the air, at 750w, it is not hot, but when you put it in a box and work at ful load, you need to add a external fan .. understand
I think they were joking...He knows what you meant.
OO i could have some fun with that. Old computer or server PSU , up rate the cooling and caps , have loads of fun.
from the pics of this and the pinout of that RX/TX header at Pin 30+31 the CPU may be a STM32 F10x
yes, it is . but RX/TX has no any function.. it is just reserve port, no software support
Is there are 3D stl file to mount these in or I can design one! I will design and publish it free if Tomtop sends me one haha
What happens when it gets shorted out
Pls reply
nothing bad happens, because it has over current short circuit protection.
Not seeing on Banggood or TomTop - a 110 VAC to 48V (or 50 V) - 15 amp AC to DC power supply to use with this bad-boy !! 8.3 amps at this higher DC voltage (48V) was the biggest I could find. Anyone know where to find something like that - given you want to use this without batteries !!
HP ESP120 - 50V 60A server PSU, can be bought used for ~$30
Donald Filbert There are a lot 50V high current supplies on the market because that's the standard requirement for most industrial telecoms gear. they aren't akways cheap though because of the reliability demands. You could make your own traditional transformer-rectifier-capacitor supply. A 36V transformer rectified and smoothed will give 48-50V DC. it would need 25A rectifiers and quite a beefy smoothing capacitor, maybe 10mF/63V.
Hey - Great info Rosscoff20008 !! Thanks for the response !!
Hey - Great info Phil M !! Thanks for the response !!
Just realized that I did not subscribe to your channel even if I have almost seen all your videos. :) I apologize for that, but now I am a subscriber. :)
Thanks Christian
Isn't Drok selling these now?
he should sells this , they are reseller, you can check their website. those are all our products .
just checked the price, and for about $35, it's pretty cheap provided what it can do.
would consider using a computer psu and run 12v and output to 30v / 15A.
I hope they eventually come out with one that can take 170V, then I can just feed it rectified AC.
170V is too big, for now we can't design this version.
*****
output 170v is too high.
Part two?
Why aren't you use proper crimping contacts? Beside this, ever heard of contact resistance loss?
Doesn't matter much for this simple test. Besides, contact resistance loss matters a lot more for higher current and outdoor environments (or long term indoor with bare copper opposed to plated wire) where corrosion sets in.
Besides, if you want to minimize contact resistance you shouldn't use crimping contacts at all, rather solder. With the crimping contacts you have both the wire to crimped area resistance AND the resistance of the metal since the contacts are seldom copper or even brass - usually plated steel.
and if only you'd elaborate about that reason, THEN we could get down to the facts instead of just trolling.
If done CORRECTLY, solder always beats mechanical-only.
Stinky Cheese The test where made at 9A with this noobish flimsy connection on the input side. I'm sorry but i can't take someone serious who isn't able to do proper electrical connections and then talk about electronics.
+volvoracingpermany - What are you talking about "the test where made at 9A"? This is nothing you had mentioned yet and so has no direct relevance to the conversation if you are not more specific and frankly it means nothing at all.
You need to start supplying some specific details and references if you want anyone to think what you write is anything more than your own imagination. You could be thinking of some specific situation where what you wrote holds true but as you wrote it, appeared to apply in a more generalized way that is not correct.
Stinky Cheese I just refer to the video, at 6:40 test starts at 9A.
Are you coming down with a bit of a cold?
No I'm fine :)
put the full 60V +++ into the converter's input please
OK, I'll do that in part two.
+Roland Dietrich
try not use at 60V, becase it is limit voltage, if want to test it , you can test
Julian Ilett
I did received a message from RD Tech and suggest you still try the unit out at 60 volts.
( Rd Tech
16.12.2016
+Roland Dietrich
try not use at 60V, becase it is limit voltage, if want to test it , you can test)
it is easily burnt.
Holy bucking hell another converter!!!
part 2 ??
a quadruple server powersupply stack would handle this beast, frequently used for charging lipo batteries
gamerpaddy it wont draw 62A. The maximum current is 15A for input AND output. To get the maximum out of this, you need to use a 48V PSU with at least 15A, better 20A for safety.
oh well, i forgot its a buck, not boost. 15a input makes sense. the description mentions that the input voltage should be 1.1 times higher than the output voltage to compensate for internal losses.
+gamerpaddy
yes, it is buck converter, now we have buck -boost converter DPH3205, output current 5A. you can check www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DPH32305-Constant-Voltage-current-Buck-boost-Programmable-digital-Power-Supply-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32762131242.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.3AjQ47
+drkastenbrot
in the next version , it will be 55V or 60v output, 20A. and we have over-current protection, don't worry about this , the module has constant voltage and constant current function, so there are many protection . but there is no input short-circuit protection
+Rd Tech Is the output 'floating' - isolated from the input and ground, so for example I could use two of these with outputs in series to make a dual-rail +/-50V supply, or is there a common connection or ground reference on the output?
Very helpful , thanks.
Time to try this out with a bank of lithium batteries on an electric scooter / bike.
you can connect the battery, but you need remeber that don't reverse the polarity
Can anyone hear noise during the video?
Clive Flint yes, me. Arround minute 3.
I think I bought items from Tom top before on eBay the name springs a brainwave
RC MAD Yeah they have a few shops on eBay I think. Tomtop_uk etc. I've used them a few times.
Adam Welch yep that's the one I think I got a b3603 of them and it's held up to my punishment and I don't go lightly on my electronics I test them to their limits
Bought a number of items from them myself, now I have another one to add to my "wish list" :P
+RC MAD
in fact , about this products, the real official shop is on aliexpress rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042
we are designer and only factory
dont think id trust that thing to be putting out 750w without keeping an eye on it
Phantom309 I just had the same thought
It can do 700W for one hour easily, in my review I did that and a lot of other tests.
A brand with the name 'Rui Deng' doesn't scream quality does it
I suppose it is the designers name (It looks like a Chinese name) and I see no reason why he cannot make good equipment.
Do you have a link? I'd like to watch your review.
free, tomtop just lost this customer, im obviously subsidising these freebies :/
It comes out of their marketing budget - all companies have a marketing budget.
not true, i have had many companies mate, and any revenue pumped into advertising still needs recovering from future customers, im not subsidising freebies, i dont mind paying for things, but im not paying over the odds any more, especially when people are being given the same items for free :/ 1 example, the green mppt's were £23 ish on bang good, somebody did a revue and the price went up by £5 ish, i ended up paying about £26 via evilbay (still need another 5 units, but they can wait until price is fair once more), and im into the markets so i know its not currency related. im sick and tired of this thing we are told to call money, im even more sick and tired of the slaves of society who just roll over and accept their slavery, stand up and be counted or be enslaved forever :/
leroy, try commenting on the video, rather than replying to my comment with an absurd remark, also dont try reading between the lines, i tell it like it is without sugar coating it thanks, its not about hate, its about equality, where are my freebies? ohh look not getting none, so why should i support brainless idiots who wish to create a divide by treating us differently, i shouldn't and i wont, tomtop have lost this customer, im not subsidising freebies when i dont get any, equality you may want to look that term up ;) :)
i prefer fair pricing for all jjensen we are all equal after all, its only the sheep who put others on pedestals
BTW, tomtop is not the manufacturer of this power supply.
It's Ruideng which actually does it. And they don't provide any units to the reviewers.