Very nice video, you covered a lot of points that beginners would need to assemble their own psu from this module. I'm just a bit worried about the wire thickness used for the input and output power stages, for this specific module being capable of currents higher than 3A, 12 AWG or around would be recommended to prevent wire loses and heating. Also the capacitor value is a bit low for anything above 2A.
Thank you for the comment! I agree that the thickness of the input/output wires is on the low side for the shown state of the PSU. Very well spotted! Theoretically they should be able to withstand about 5A of continuous current which is plenty for powering small circuits and such. Still I have corrected the issue in the meantime and also added an external heat sink to the bridge rectifier. Besides the capacitor I added there are also a few input capacitors parallel to mine, so this would increase the max capacitance a bit. I just used what I had laying around. There is a third video planned where I address these points and an upgrade to the firmware so stay tuned!
They should be able to withstand those currents, but that's really the maximum rating, for power transfer double the gauge is recommended. Looking forward to see the changes, keep it up!
Good video! Watched your part one and part 2.very descriptive! Wanted to use DPS 5015 module for my power supply, but vent with a cheaper step down module. very pricy...
Hi, great video, congratulations. I bought the DPS 5015. I wanted to know what kind of transformer serves and what type of diode bridge serves. Thank you
Thank you for the Comment! The transformer is a 96 VA transformer with multiple secondary taps, of which I use the 24V one. The rectifier is just something I had laying around in my bin. I assume you are from Italy, I bought mine from Conrad : www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/514349/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Trasformatore-universale-1-x-230-V-1-x-4-VAC-6-VAC-8-VAC-10-VAC-12-VAC-14-VAC-16-VAC-18-VAC-20-VAC-24 The rectifier is something like this one: www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/501158/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Ponte-raddrizzatore-Diotec-KBPC10152506FP-KBPC-600-V-25-A-Monofase
Why are you using the smoothing capacitor before the bridge rectifier? It would make more sense to rectify the voltage and then smooth the ripple. Also the wires you used is way to small to handle the potential current this system can provide. Whilst you're under supplying the system by using a 100VA transformer you will still exceed the rated capacity of the wire used. Another potential issue is the bridge rectifier being attached directly to the plastic case. The rectifiers tend to get quite warm with load and may warp your front panel.
Hello Johann, thank you for your comment. The smoothing capacitor is inserted after the bridge rectifier. If you read the reply to TDL's comment I mentioned that the issues you touch on have been resolved and will be shown in a future video. EN6204-1 States that at a temperature or +40°C a 0.75mm^2 conductor connected in the manner B2, C or E has a current carrying capacity of 9.5A in case of B2 and C and 10A in case of E. That is indeed lower than the max rated 15A of the front end and I will add a note in the description. Have a great day!
After re-watching the video I can see where I got confused RE: Smoothing cap. Thanks for the reply. I have just discovered you on youtube and are enjoying your vids. Thank you for your time and effort. =D
Hello, The capacitor smooths the rectified voltage waves. If you're interested, see www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html in the "Smoothing Capacitor" section. Typically the largest value you can get away with is good for reducing the peaks. Think of it like a manual water pump with piston action. If you let the water flow directly from the pump, the flow will be discontinuous - i.e. the flow changes with the stroke. If you pump the water into a bucket with a small hole and then get your flow from the bucket then the flow will be smoother. In this case the bucket is the capacitor and the size of the bucket is the capacitance. That being said, the module itself seems to have some input capacitors itself, so you could get away with connecting the rectifier directly to the input. Smoothing capacitors are always a good idea, that's why I added an extra one. (To increase the size of my bucket :))
@otinex I'm an absolute beginner, can you explain the difference between the insulated banana plugs and the power supply posts on the right side of the panel? Thank you!!! :-)
The banana plugs on the right-hand side are slightly more convenient for connecting wires, as the terminals have a screw on them. The ones on the left-hand side are meant for the more secure insulated banana plugs. Electrically there is no difference between the pairs because they are connected in parallel. Hope this helps :)
hello. First thank you for the link you sent me to the transformer and the rectifier bridge. I wanted to ask you something else: the capacitor of how many microfarads is and how many was to be. and then connected to the most and less than the rectifier bridge - if you have an electrical scheme I would like it. thank you and I joined your excellent channel
The value of the capacitor is dependent on the amount of ripple you want to account for on a given load. As a rule of thumb: v_ripple = I_load / 2* f * C; Where v_ripple is the ripple voltage you can expect, I_load is the amount of current that is being drawn, f is the frequenqy - if you're in europe 50 Hz, if you're in the US 60 Hz - and C is the value of your capacitor. So if you assume the absolute "worst case" scenario being I_load = 15A and you can live with a ripple voltage of - let's say 100 mV then you would have -> 15A / 2 * 50 Hz * 100e-3V = 1.5 - so you would need 1 Farad (!) for that. That's 1000000 µF (!) if we want to be more generous and use a 100000 µF capacitor at 15A it would result in a ripple of 1.5V. The transformer I linked to you has a max current rating of about 4A. Using a 22000 µF capacitor with at least a 40V rating, you would get a ripple voltage of 1.8V at 4 A which for some is acceptable. As the power supply itself also has some input filtering, I used the highest value cap I had around - as a placeholder so to speak. What i'm trying to say is that it depends on what you want to do :) In your case I would probably go with a 22000 µF capacitor (about 10 - 20€) if you don't plan on loading up your PSU to the max, otherwise for this configuration you can go for 150000µF (about 50 - 90€).
Hello, can you tell me the values of the two components soldered between the output terminals (near the toroid on the main board) I turned the terminals on the back and during the desoldering I have lost one (in your video I saw two, in my circuit I have only one but the empty pitches have too much pond to be empty in origin)
Thanks for your response. I'm a 22000 microfarad capacitor. you've been very thorough, Congrats and sorry for the disturbance. just one last thing: from your video I think I see that the capacitor is connected between the positive and negative of the bridge rectifier right?
normally PLA doesn't require a heated bed at all, but 200 (if that's even achievable) is way too much. Try 40 - 70 and check that the bed is level and that the nozzle is at a right distance for that first layer (too close and it can curl, too far and it can curl).
Is every one just missing the boat here? He hobbled this thing with a 96 VA transformer. At 20 volts that's going to be less than 5 amps output. It's rated for 50 volts at 15 amps. Why would you do this?
Thank you for your comment. If you look at part,1 I mention in the intro that I had both the module that I got on a whim on sale and the 96 VA transformer sitting around my parts drawer, so I decided to do something with them. And the reason for doing this is - well - fun. Also I don't recommend running anything up to its specified rating (especially relatively cheap electronics from overseas).
Decent work. You should really have more views. TDL has touched on the wire size so I wont get into that. The mounting on the side with hot glue comes off a bit amateur compare to everything else. Is it not a printed case? Why not include stanchions to screw into with self thread screws? Also I could not tell if the self thread screws you used on the base screwed into stanchion or directly through the base. Ideally all screws should not penetrate to give the best look.
Thank you for the feedback. The case itself is not 3D-printed. The front, back and mounts for transformer, electronics and cap holder are the only printed parts. As far as the self tappers go, nothing sticks out and the available mounting holes were used. The hot glue bit was an afterthought as I decided to add my own capacitor later in the design phase but it gets the job done.
Now that you cleared that up I had a look at your description and I see a link for the enclosure. Based on the video I just assumed it was all printed since other parts were noted as being printed. For me hot glue is just not the way but I realise from viewing videos its a common thing.
Well ... I don't know what to say but that was the tidiest build I ever saw in TH-cam.
Keep up the good work
Thank you! very much appreciated :)
Very nice video, you covered a lot of points that beginners would need to assemble their own psu from this module.
I'm just a bit worried about the wire thickness used for the input and output power stages, for this specific module being capable of currents higher than 3A, 12 AWG or around would be recommended to prevent wire loses and heating. Also the capacitor value is a bit low for anything above 2A.
Thank you for the comment!
I agree that the thickness of the input/output wires is on the low side for the shown state of the PSU. Very well spotted!
Theoretically they should be able to withstand about 5A of continuous current which is plenty for powering small circuits and such. Still I have corrected the issue in the meantime and also added an external heat sink to the bridge rectifier.
Besides the capacitor I added there are also a few input capacitors parallel to mine, so this would increase the max capacitance a bit. I just used what I had laying around. There is a third video planned where I address these points and an upgrade to the firmware so stay tuned!
They should be able to withstand those currents, but that's really the maximum rating, for power transfer double the gauge is recommended.
Looking forward to see the changes, keep it up!
Calling Part 3 where are you? Sorry, but Banggood's 11th Anniversary Sale is about to end, lol! I'll live, no problem. Haha! Thx for the vids!
Part 3 is in progress but until then we have a new video coming out soon. Stay tuned :)
otinex Groovy! ÷*)
I found this channel owns great content to show!! Carry on!!! Please try to work with some electronics projects, tutorials
Really professional video :)
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Good video! Watched your part one and part 2.very descriptive!
Wanted to use DPS 5015 module for my power supply, but vent with a cheaper step down module. very pricy...
Hi, thanx for your amazing video can you please make a video on the OpenDPS please as that is definitely what I am looking forward too, thank you 😉
Hi, great video, congratulations. I bought the DPS 5015. I wanted to know what kind of transformer serves and what type of diode bridge serves. Thank you
Thank you for the Comment! The transformer is a 96 VA transformer with multiple secondary taps, of which I use the 24V one. The rectifier is just something I had laying around in my bin. I assume you are from Italy, I bought mine from Conrad : www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/514349/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Trasformatore-universale-1-x-230-V-1-x-4-VAC-6-VAC-8-VAC-10-VAC-12-VAC-14-VAC-16-VAC-18-VAC-20-VAC-24
The rectifier is something like this one: www.conrad.it/ce/it/product/501158/?insert=62&insertNoDeeplink&productname=Ponte-raddrizzatore-Diotec-KBPC10152506FP-KBPC-600-V-25-A-Monofase
good, to make a variable source up to 8A, the transformer has to be 8A or may be less ampere
?
where did you buy the connector terminal crew and pcb ?
Why are you using the smoothing capacitor before the bridge rectifier? It would make more sense to rectify the voltage and then smooth the ripple.
Also the wires you used is way to small to handle the potential current this system can provide. Whilst you're under supplying the system by using a 100VA transformer you will still exceed the rated capacity of the wire used.
Another potential issue is the bridge rectifier being attached directly to the plastic case. The rectifiers tend to get quite warm with load and may warp your front panel.
Ok I watched more and you acknowledged the heat issue with the rectifier..
Hello Johann, thank you for your comment. The smoothing capacitor is inserted after the bridge rectifier. If you read the reply to TDL's comment I mentioned that the issues you touch on have been resolved and will be shown in a future video. EN6204-1 States that at a temperature or +40°C a 0.75mm^2 conductor connected in the manner B2, C or E has a current carrying capacity of 9.5A in case of B2 and C and 10A in case of E. That is indeed lower than the max rated 15A of the front end and I will add a note in the description. Have a great day!
After re-watching the video I can see where I got confused RE: Smoothing cap.
Thanks for the reply. I have just discovered you on youtube and are enjoying your vids. Thank you for your time and effort. =D
Hi;
Thank you for this video.
Could you tell us the purpose of the capacitor, please?
Hello,
The capacitor smooths the rectified voltage waves. If you're interested, see www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html in the "Smoothing Capacitor" section. Typically the largest value you can get away with is good for reducing the peaks. Think of it like a manual water pump with piston action. If you let the water flow directly from the pump, the flow will be discontinuous - i.e. the flow changes with the stroke. If you pump the water into a bucket with a small hole and then get your flow from the bucket then the flow will be smoother. In this case the bucket is the capacitor and the size of the bucket is the capacitance.
That being said, the module itself seems to have some input capacitors itself, so you could get away with connecting the rectifier directly to the input. Smoothing capacitors are always a good idea, that's why I added an extra one. (To increase the size of my bucket :))
Thank you for taking the time to give us an informative explanation.
@otinex I'm an absolute beginner, can you explain the difference between the insulated banana plugs and the power supply posts on the right side of the panel? Thank you!!! :-)
The banana plugs on the right-hand side are slightly more convenient for connecting wires, as the terminals have a screw on them. The ones on the left-hand side are meant for the more secure insulated banana plugs. Electrically there is no difference between the pairs because they are connected in parallel. Hope this helps :)
hello. First thank you for the link you sent me to the transformer and the rectifier bridge. I wanted to ask you something else: the capacitor of how many microfarads is and how many was to be. and then connected to the most and less than the rectifier bridge - if you have an electrical scheme I would like it. thank you and I joined your excellent channel
The value of the capacitor is dependent on the amount of ripple you want to account for on a given load. As a rule of thumb: v_ripple = I_load / 2* f * C; Where v_ripple is the ripple voltage you can expect, I_load is the amount of current that is being drawn, f is the frequenqy - if you're in europe 50 Hz, if you're in the US 60 Hz - and C is the value of your capacitor. So if you assume the absolute "worst case" scenario being I_load = 15A and you can live with a ripple voltage of - let's say 100 mV then you would have -> 15A / 2 * 50 Hz * 100e-3V = 1.5 - so you would need 1 Farad (!) for that. That's 1000000 µF (!) if we want to be more generous and use a 100000 µF capacitor at 15A it would result in a ripple of 1.5V. The transformer I linked to you has a max current rating of about 4A. Using a 22000 µF capacitor with at least a 40V rating, you would get a ripple voltage of 1.8V at 4 A which for some is acceptable. As the power supply itself also has some input filtering, I used the highest value cap I had around - as a placeholder so to speak.
What i'm trying to say is that it depends on what you want to do :) In your case I would probably go with a 22000 µF capacitor (about 10 - 20€) if you don't plan on loading up your PSU to the max, otherwise for this configuration you can go for 150000µF (about 50 - 90€).
Hello,
can you tell me the values of the two components soldered between the output terminals (near the toroid on the main board) I turned the terminals on the back and during the desoldering I have lost one (in your video I saw two, in my circuit I have only one but the empty pitches have too much pond to be empty in origin)
Thanks for your response. I'm a 22000 microfarad capacitor. you've been very thorough, Congrats and sorry for the disturbance. just one last thing: from your video I think I see that the capacitor is connected between the positive and negative of the bridge rectifier right?
that is correct, yes :)
Can you show the schematic diagram? I want to make it like you
Do the DPS PSUs require AC, DC, or both on the input.
Only seen them on eBay so far, and no info is given on this.
The DPS Module requires DC. I used a transformer and rectifier to deliver voltage to it. Theoretically it would be good for 50V DC Input.
Hi, How You solve the curling problema with 3d printer when we print largue base Área objects as You do with front and back panel?
I print in PLA using a Prusa i3 MK2 with a heated bed that is covered by a PEI sheet. I don't use anything else.
otinex what temperature You use in the base table and You use fam to chill the printed object?
The heated bed is at 55°C, the fan is off for the first layer and on 100% for all others
otinex Thanks a lot, my bed is 200,and fan is off first layer and 100% rest.But dont work good like your
normally PLA doesn't require a heated bed at all, but 200 (if that's even achievable) is way too much. Try 40 - 70 and check that the bed is level and that the nozzle is at a right distance for that first layer (too close and it can curl, too far and it can curl).
Hi. Can the product Limit the current while under the load?
Yes.
i dont know how to power the 750W. how do i do?
Is every one just missing the boat here? He hobbled this thing with a 96 VA transformer. At 20 volts that's going to be less than 5 amps output. It's rated for 50 volts at 15 amps. Why would you do this?
Thank you for your comment.
If you look at part,1 I mention in the intro that I had both the module that I got on a whim on sale and the 96 VA transformer sitting around my parts drawer, so I decided to do something with them. And the reason for doing this is - well - fun. Also I don't recommend running anything up to its specified rating (especially relatively cheap electronics from overseas).
Decent work. You should really have more views.
TDL has touched on the wire size so I wont get into that. The mounting on the side with hot glue comes off a bit amateur compare to everything else. Is it not a printed case? Why not include stanchions to screw into with self thread screws?
Also I could not tell if the self thread screws you used on the base screwed into stanchion or directly through the base. Ideally all screws should not penetrate to give the best look.
Thank you for the feedback. The case itself is not 3D-printed. The front, back and mounts for transformer, electronics and cap holder are the only printed parts. As far as the self tappers go, nothing sticks out and the available mounting holes were used. The hot glue bit was an afterthought as I decided to add my own capacitor later in the design phase but it gets the job done.
Now that you cleared that up I had a look at your description and I see a link for the enclosure. Based on the video I just assumed it was all printed since other parts were noted as being printed.
For me hot glue is just not the way but I realise from viewing videos its a common thing.