DIY Filament Dry box - heated, ventilated, Arduino controlled
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2024
- Hier zeige ich den Bau einer beheizten und aktiv belüfteten Filament Trockenbox. Gesteuert durch einen Arduino Nano. Gebaut aus einer Ikea365 10,4L Vorratsbox, ein paar elektronische Teile und ein paar Teilen aus dem 3D-Drucker. Die Bauteilekosten betragen etwas über 50€.
Das Projekt ist diesmal ein wenig aufwendiger und komplexer. Mit etwas Geschick und ein paar Kenntnissen in Elektronik und Arduino jedoch leicht nachzubauen. Alle Teile sind leicht zu beschaffen. Eine Teileliste mit Bezugquellen und weiteren Bauinfos hinterlege ich bei den STL Dateien auf printable.com. Den Link für die Software auf GitHub findet ihr ebenfalls dort.
Here I show you how to build a heated and actively ventilated filament dry box. Controlled by an Arduino Nano. Built from an Ikea365 10.4L storage box, a few electronic parts and a few parts from the 3D printer. The component costs are just over €50.
This time the project is a little more involved and complex. With a little skill and a few However, it is easy to recreate if you have knowledge of electronics and Arduino. All parts are easy to obtain. I store a parts list with sources of supply and further construction information in the STL files on printable.com. You can also find the link for the software on GitHub there.
STL files: www.printables.com/de/model/7...
0:00 Intro
1:01 Demo Test
3:05 Bauteile , Parts to build
4:29 3D Print
5:17 Zusammenbau Baugruppen , Assembling assemblies
8:16 Anzeichnen / Bohren , Marking / Drilling
10:39 Einbau Baugruppen , Installation assemblies
13:46 Verkabelung , cabling
16:31 Alternativer Rollenhalter , Alternative roll holder - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Downloads
Link Stl files: www.printables.com/de/model/724722-heated-and-ventilated-filament-dry-box
GitHub: github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control
Can you please add all the necessary hardware list on Printables?
The Partlist (Partlist-Info-Heated-DryBox.txt) with all parts and links to abtain the parts, is allready stored on printables beside the STL files. The text file also contains some additional information. Please check this.@@grimwaltzman
Nice ! I bought a 2nd hand food dehydrator. Wanting to fix a rattling noise issue, I opened it, and I was quite disappointed at the very crude temperature control (heater goes only on/off at a predetermined frequency, no closed loop regulation). So while starting to look at DIY solutions, your solution is simple, safe, easy to maintain and accurate enough for the purpose.
Of course safety first! 12V low voltage power supply (Short circuit proof) and the ptc heater can't be over heated. About 50€ for the material isn't that much. You can't buy a dryer with this features for the price. And if you are a littel bit familar with Arduino coding, you can add the features you like.
Very nice project
Sehr tolle Idee und klasse präsentiert 🙏🏻👍🏻
nice project sir
Thank you
Definitely good.
I do have the same boxes. But I have no air from outside but silica gel. This offers me the storage function as well.
Heated with silica gel? This will also work fine. But you have to change the silica from time to time. I have a bunch of filament rolls. So i prefer to use the small boxes (only with silica) for storage and printing. I use the heated box only for intensive drying.
Great video! I have been searching for a diy box like this for about 6 months. I have already invested in some components to build something similar using a larger box for 4 spools. Some of those components will have to be replaced because I like the vent feature you incorporated using the Nano and lcd display. Even in my Sovol dryer I noticed I have to vent the humidity out when drying for it to be effective. Trying to follow the bread board schematic was a bit of a challenge for me. It showed a 35v 10um cap that wasn't in the video. In researching the DHT11 I found it to spec 0C-50C and 20%-90% humidity range. The data sheet also explained that the cap and resistor are incorporated in the module but would have to be added to a stand alone sensor. I then came across a DHT22 sensor. I am incorporating this sensor instead. it's range is -40C to 80C and 0% to 100% humidity, a bit more accurate and uses the same voltage as in your circuit but can handle up to 6 volts. I like to get my filament to under 15% humidity and I use a lot of ABS. ABS, Nylon and such have a drying temperature of 75 -80C. The schematic could be a little more detailed for the 5v side of things but it gets me to where I want to go. THANK You for awesome effort and direction.
The electronic circuit is quite simple from my view and many people are using this Fritzing diagrams. So i thought it would be the best way. Yes i forgot to mention the 10um cap in the video. Room for two spools was enough for me and i wanted the Ikea365 box because the box is easy to get in almost each country. To be honest, the heater solution was my second try. The first one fails with a bad result. The second works fine. For a bigger box you need an additional heater unit. The MosFets will be able to handle both.
I know the DHT11 is not the best choice. But it is cheap and is completely sufficient for control. Decisive for the best result is the ventilation at intervals. Accurate temperature is not that importent. The DHT22 is indeed the better choice. However, it also costs three times as much as the DHT11. With the concept of this box it is possible to get the humidity below 10%. In the test i didn't reach this value due to the time limit of 1hour.
The DHT11 generally works fine. I am building 3 boxes to store and print out of. Amazon has 5 DHT11s for $8.99 and 3 DHT22s for $10.79. Those are the modules and not the just the sensors. So they cost twice as much but for myself worth it for the added monitoring/accuracy range. I'm also using 2 24v 30w polyimide heaters on an aluminum plate with a 40x20 fan. They blow more cfms and I can make it fit better in the ezystorage 18L box I'm using (HomeDepot in the US). I'm also using 2 intakes and exhausts on each box. These items I already had and the LM7805 will also work with the 24v supply. @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468Sounds also interesting. Did you check out, if the two heater have enought power to heat up this big box? I am using 50W for a 10L box. Shure, the 7805 will work fine. I am not shure, if you realy need two intakes and exhausts. My small 40x10 fans are not driven at full power. There is still reserve left. However, the fun is to research and try out, which solution will work fine.
I planed on sticking aluminum reflective insulation inside the box which should keep the heat in and any condensation from forming between the box walls and insulation. As far as the ventilation. I'm not that thrilled about cutting a lot of holes in an air tight container so I'm still thinking about that aspect. I was looking at using a silicone disk/diaphragm type of valve. Like the valve used on vacuum bags. I think it's more air tight than the louvered design. The part I am going to have the most trouble with is sketching the arduino. I have forgotten/lost a lot in 15 years since I last worked with them and the "accidents" @@werners_corner
@@nickvee9468I also thought about an insulation inside the box. But for the i skiped this. My box isn't that big. Therefore it is not so necessary.
I doubt, that the fan is able to open such kind of valves. That's reason, i designed and printed the in- and outtake with this flaps. I didn't plan to store the filament for longer time in this box. In this way, the box is not 100% air tight. To solve this problem for long time storage, i thought about a cap for covering the intake and outtake. The small remaining leak will no longer have a significant impact. Also you can add a little box with siicat gel while the box is powerd up.
All part required are now printed, files up loaded to Arduino Uno with no errors (for test) a few electrical Items on order. Really looking forward to the build. Just the 800+ lines of code must of taken ages let alone the design of the parts. Thank you,
You are welcome!
Yes, the code is not entirely trivial and took some time. But the device should also work professionally. If there are any problems, please feel free to ask
@@werners_corner Hi, I have now completed the build, I tested the box empty to start with and finally tried with 2 spools of filament. I am having a hard time understanding how the unit is supposed to work, and if I have built it to your specification.
The Unit is set for 40 degrees and time 4 hours. Ambient temp 18 degrees. The unit takes 45+ minutes to get to 40 degrees, then the extract fan starts for the 20 seconds. At this point once the extract fan stops, my temperature starts to climb to about 41 degrees and then slowly falls to about 37 degrees, humidity dropping. It then starts to climb very slowly back up taking 20 minutes to do so. Is that how it should work?
Second question... Extract fan. I can see that the trigger to the extract fan is the (in my case) 40 degree point, is it the case the next time it triggers is the next 40 degree point or is there another trigger (eg time or humidity?)
I have tried to understand your code, but it is far beyond my limited coding skills.
Third question... I did have to change the encoder pins DT and CLK, ( D6 and D7). I had completely finished my wiring before I realised, so I changed it within the code, is there any reason that you can see that it could be a problem? Thank you for designing this box and sharing it.
@@HigiStyx First to third question: it doesn't matter if you change the wires or simple change the pins (D6, D7) in the code. The result is the same.
45+ minutes to reach the destionation of 40 degrees seems to be a way to long. I checked this today morning. It took less then 10 minutes to reach 40 degrees. But my ambient temp is approx 22 degrees. I never tested it in such a "cool" environment. So it might be taken a littel bit longer. But not 45 minutes. Does your heater get enough power?
How the box works: the ventilation starts the first time, when the destionation temp is reached. After this, the ventilation works every 4 minutes. But only if the destination temp is reach again in this time.
A drop to 37 degrees seems to be ok in this ambient. My drop is about 38,6 degrees.
You should check, if your heater is heating well. Does he get enough current from the power supply (at a littel bit more then 4A)?
You can use the "Test" menu to drive the components manually. Enter the menu and chosse the value to set. HFan = fan for the heater, Heat = the heater self, AFan = ventilation fan. "Exit" stops all components.
The temperature controll uses different ramps for different destionation temperatures. Try to set 41 degrees instead of 40. 41 will step to the next more powerfull ramp. You'll find the ramp table in function "void setHeatupRamp(....)" at line 643. You can change this values, if the test before solves your problem.
Feel free to contact me by email (find it in the chanel description) or on printables for more support.
@@werners_corner Thank for your quick and informative reply. Your 10 minutes to 40 Degrees, was that an empty box? As my 45+ minutes is with two 18 degree ambient temperature spools of filament in the box. My first test with an empty box was considerably quicker. I have two spools in the dryer at the moment, from ambient temp 18C with the temp set to 41c instead of 40. To time it.
..UP DATE.. From 18C to 41c 2 spools of filament 51 minutes with the box wrapped in insulation on the top and sides.
I had a quick check of the heater in the test menu, the heater with the heating fan on, it gets very hot.
I am using a 12v 6 amp transformer brick that I had laying around my workshop for the dryer, however is a cheap Chinese one that I can't guarantee the output, It is getting very hot. I will buy a new quality one. The 12v cabling from the transformer to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that is what I had, so a bit over kill.
I have not altered the code on line 643, at the moment. Do I enter values between the brackets on that line? or do I adjust values of the tables below line 643?
hope fully it will be that cheap transformer.
The ventilation now makes sense. thanks
@@werners_corner Hi again, Thanks for the info on how the code works I can now see how that bit works.
Did you get your 10 minute time (22c to 40C) with and empty box?
My 45+ minutes was with 2 spools of filament in the box.
I will try this evening to dry another 2 spools of filament but using 41C instead, hopefully that should pull the time down.
I am using a 12v 6A transformer brick, however it is a cheap Chinese one that I had laying around. I can’t guarantee it’s output and it gets very hot. I have ordered a new quality one today. My cables running to the mosfet bank is 1.5mm as that was the best sizing that I had to hand.
I tried the test of the heater and heater fan this morning and it does get hot, I will have to look into that If the 41C and the new transformer doesn’t do it.
You say I can change the values of line 643. Do I enter the values on that line in between the brackets? Or do I change the values within the table below?
I'm starting to design my own project for a climate controlled filament dryer box that is a bit bigger than this but just starting to get into electronics like this and Arduinos so im not 100% sure on what im doing. I read some of your other replies and said the MOSFETs would be able to handle another 50w heater added onto the same module. If I added another MOSFET to run two 100w heaters and got a power supply rated to handle those do you think I'd be able to to follow everything else in the schematic just splice in another signal wire for an additional MOSFET?
Yes you can add an additional MosFet module. The module is specified up to 400W and 35A. But i wouldn' t trust this. Two modules should be find. Keep in mind, that you need much thicker cables for the MosFet. Also a power supply with 20A minimum.
Thank you very much for this project, I also needed such a dryer and I started to do it, but I get a library error while loading the code. I don't understand where to download the "DryBoxControl.h", "WRKeyStateDef.h", "DryBoxDisplay.h" libraries, can you help?
These files are inside the DryBoxControl-v046.ZIP, which i accidentally uploaded. Now the zip is deleted and you find the files directly in the repository. You also need the NewliquidCrystal.ZIP. This file has to be add as extern library. See also hints on printables.com.
thank you for sharing this project. I got some warnings while compiling, below are the warning messages :
D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino: In function 'void loop()':
D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:267:19: warning: invalid conversion from 'volatile uint8_t* {aka volatile unsigned char*}' to 'uint8_t* {aka unsigned char*}' [-fpermissive]
CheckKeyState(&encoderBUTTON_State, EncSwitch);
^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In file included from D:\3DPrinter\SiongUn\Drybox\DryBoxControl\DryBoxControl.ino:63:0:
sketch\WRKeyStateDef.h:13:9: note: initializing argument 1 of 'uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t*, uint8_t)'
uint8_t CheckKeyState(uint8_t * KeyState, uint8_t KeyPin);
can you give me some advice, thank you
The compiler seems to be a little bit "stupid" here. The types are the same. You can delete the modifier "volatile" in line 97 of DryBoxControl.ino to get off this warning. Or simple ignore it.