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No it has no polarity. The PTC is a kind of resistor, which changes his resistor value depending from the temperature. PTC = positive temperature coefficient.

@werners_corner Thank you sir!

Warping depends also from PLA brand and the size of the object. Did you try a bigger Brim at larger surfaces? Brim or bigger mouse ears at the corners solve this for my "bad" brands. Also you shouldn't turn on the exthaus fan during the first layers.

as I said before, contact me at printables.com. Why aren't you doing it? Go to the download page on printables. There you find all contact information.

For this, the Arduino doesn't have enough I/Os.

@@werners_corner What If you Multiplex them?

@@taurruth I doubt, that it would possible to proper multiplex the different pwm for the fans and heater with the Nano. But try it out.

Please contact me on printables for detailed advice. The TH-cam comments are not suitable for this.

I run my bed at 63C for PLA and have Ambiente temperature around 22C. In sommer it might getting up to almost 30C for some days. We will see.

Yes. 9 hours and 59 minutes is the longest time. Normaly you shouldn't need more then 4 or 5 hours. Mostly i dry petg around 3 hours. But feel free, to change that in the software.

@@werners_corner Can you tell me where I can change it in the software?

@ To change this, it is not that easy. You have to change the max range of hours in DryBoxControl.ino: starts at line 462 case AST_ED_DRYHOUR: oldTimeVal = DryTime_Hours; EncoderValueChange(&DryTime_Hours, 0, 9); // line 464 and also you have to adjust the ui outputs at multiple points in DryBoxDisplay.cpp. If you are doing this, it's your own risk! I didn't check the DryBox for such a long dry time. Don't burn your house down!

@@werners_corner Thank you very much for the answer.

Hi, das sind standard Buchsenleisten (ist im Video aber aufgeführt). Die gibt es günstig in standard 40Pin Länge und kürzt die sich entsprechend. www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07XXXNH9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@werners_cornerDanke für die schnelle Rückmeldung. Ich meinte aber eigentlich die Platine wo die stromzufuhr angeschlossen ist und der arduino draufgesteckt ist, ist das eine fertige Platine?

@@casi221 Achso. Nein das ist ein Stück doppelseitiges Lochrasterplatine 70x30. Die stammt aus einem Sortiment von Lochrasterplatinen. Wie dieser hier z.B.: www.amazon.de/dp/B0734XYJPM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0734XYJPM&pd_rd_w=wizUB&content-id=amzn1.sym.6ffc9ff7-fa31-49da-8594-196e74bcf61e&pf_rd_p=6ffc9ff7-fa31-49da-8594-196e74bcf61e&pf_rd_r=8Y5JH9EQK8XNVBJKFD6S&pd_rd_wg=hgLX1&pd_rd_r=de58b616-7754-4b8c-8ce1-6703c4f0e3c2&s=industrial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

@@werners_corner ich hab jetzt soweit alles ausgedruckt und würde das Projekt gerne mit einem Arduino Pro micro umsetzen, ich habe jetzt auch schon in Fritzing wal alles augezeichnet, aber ich bin mir nicht sicher ob das so funktioniert und wie und wo ich den sketch anpassen muß, wäre eine Hilfe von Dir möglich? VG

@@casi221 Mit dem Pro micro habe ich noch nicht gearbeitet. Der hat zudem eine etwas andere Architektur als der Nano. Ganz kompatibel ist der nicht. Ausserdem hat der weniger Flash Memory. Das könnte eng werden. Warum nimmst du nicht einfach einen Nano? Der ist ausserdem billiger.

Hi, there might be something wrong with your wiring. The vent fan only runs, when the destination temp is reached and only for 20 seconds. This happens in intervalls of 4 minutes. Dest temp has to be reached of course. Otherwise the ventilation is skipped. You can adjust this parameters in the config module of the cource code (HeatingData.cpp). The MOSFet modules are all connected in parallel to ground and +12V. I soldered the parallel wiring on the backside. So i only need to wire to one 12V and ground clamp. The minus trigger/pwm input are also connected to ground. So you only need to connect the positiv trigger input to the related Arduino output i/o. You can see that in the Fritzing diagram. To be shure you also regard the i/o connection list within the main ino file.

@@werners_corner Hi Verner, thanks for the quick reply. Have I understood correctly? The minus trigger/pwm input has ground via the parallel connected 12v input.? and I therefore do not need to connect them to ground.

@@johnstephansen Yes exactly. Trigger ground and 12V minus are the same connection. If you have a multimeter, you can measure it. All grounds, also Arduino, has to be the same. Otherwise it wont work.

Thank you for the answer

all you need is stored on github. The other libraries you can directly download within the Arduino IDE

The sensor is programmed with the Adafruit library - librara properties: name=DHT sensor library version=1.4.4 author=Adafruit maintainer=Adafruit <info@adafruit.com> sentence=Arduino library for DHT11, DHT22, etc Temp & Humidity Sensors paragraph=Arduino library for DHT11, DHT22, etc Temp & Humidity Sensors category=Sensors url=github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library architectures=* depends=Adafruit Unified Sensor you can installed it directly within the Arduino IDE

@@werners_corner Hello again :-) The system works the same with both libraries!? Everything works correctly... until it reaches 40.2 - 40.8 degrees and there the measurement freezes. The question is: What is the probability that the DHT11 sensor is not working correctly? (I replaced two DHT11 and the result is the same).

@@TheGalinpetrov I don't know. Iv'e never noticed such effect. May be, you have made an mistake somewhere else.

@@werners_corner I'm OK with electronics... but I'm a beginner with Arduino.... :-) so I think that's where the problem lies. Ok thanks a lot. I'll keep fighting until I win :-) Thanks again!

@@TheGalinpetrov You only can use one library. You have to uninstall the other library and then install the Adafruit mentioned in previous post. This should work corect.

Software download is here: github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control just click on the geen button named "code" and choose "Donwnload.Zip"

I can't read this. English or german please! All links for parts and the software are also provided on printables. See video description or in the first pinned comment.

This is the wrong part you are using. The Arduinis generates a PWM to control the fans. You have to use a MOSFet module not a relay.

Hi, i found it on Amazon Store Argentinia: www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B08P55VMZM?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=QVZUCXQJH64G&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.V8zmknCJkMieByHSYNyPHn9wAIC1RjClSUCFacywKhh5-0pBjIxU1BbFwLd0zUGB3t5BW78ktd2pXslVCyK7_Ihx_rzX-x515w6PCY7WWGBdAIOj7ygHF53zoDQTiDomWcNGjiraC5F95AOJ5C2_1_UpORLGCFtpkrua0wCMcTsqM8muDbKjJR5yD4ok7I_ifKBX-JjNgLeJYnH_714S3_wpx7ZQwTIQonyT1jtjUCeilm-B5upWb8BQGY0Uy_8pe3bEcaDkMrJ8_-HFwxZ3rNJvPcjXu0Ka-bGunSSdU-k.hV6h98GLkfy_mUUn4jfv9PL_pWXgqdGLZr7Y3ejGGBw&dib_tag=se&keywords=ptc+heater+12V+50W&qid=1733810994&sprefix=ptc+heater+12v+50w%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-2 sorry for the long link, it's directly copy/pasted.

Currently the container i use are sold out. But they might come back soon: www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0CPP5KGJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 You need a size about 3.7 to 4L without any constriction at the backside.

Sorry, but i only provide the STL files.

I think you the pcb and the wireing. I didn't made a video about the soldering of the pcb, because that would be boring for most of the viewers. But you will find a detailed diagram in style of a bread board (Fritzing), which shows the electrical details and how to wire the components, on printables.com. See the link in the video description or first comment below the video.

A more detailed view of the pcb would be helpfull. I understand the diagram but have no idea how to solder it on the pcb since im kinda new to pcb soldering

@@DRMftBT Ok i will try to take some pictures of the pcb and add them to the files on printables.

Still looking forward for that pictures... Do you know, when you got some time for that? Thank you very much in advance!

@ I will do it this weekend. Maybe even tomorrow on friday.

Of course there is existing such a full printed box for filament dry storage. But it take to much time and material for one box.

Because the heater is getting quite hot, it's recommended to use PETG. PETG is more heat resistence then PLA. Of course you can use PLA for the heater housing. But it might loose his shape by the time.

@@werners_corner I know that PLA deforms in lower temperatures in constrast to PETG. but I can dry PLA on top of the printer bed. Unlike PETG. If I successfully manage to dry the PETG I'll probably change over to that.

@@werners_corner Kannst du mir sagen, der Messungen der Ikea Box?

@@barbarosbozkurt758 Länge/Length: 320 mm Breite/Width: 210 mm Höhe/Height: 230 mm Inhalt/Volume: 10.6 l

Sounds interesting. But for designed 50/60 Watt, the MOSFet don't get hot. Up to 100W it also shouldn't be a problem without cooling. The MOSFet modules are specified with 35A/400W. But i doubt that they can handle this. You can also take a look for another MOSFet. You don't have to use the module at all. It was simple for rebuild. All you need is a N-MOSFet like IRF540 or similar and a resistor for the gate. For the ventilation fan, you can also try to scale up the ventilation frame and flaps. Good luck for your projekt. Let me know, how it goes.

It's a PTC resistor and it don't have a polarity. You can connect any wire to positiv or negativ.

I don't know. I guess you'll need for 6 times more Volume, at least 6 times more Power. I think you can reuse the Arduino and the software. But to satisfy the power consumption, you need another concept for the heating and switching.

@@werners_corner Perhaps multiple reptile heaters? What do you mean by switching by the way?

@@Luka1180 The used MOSFet wouldn't be able the amount of power. You will need multiple MOSFets. Maybe one for each heater.

I think I have a bag of several MOSFETs. But don’t know how many there are in it.

@@Luka1180 Try it out. The Arduino will be able to trigger multiple MosFets at one I/O. But you also need a big power supply.

Temperature controlling is a quite complex process and needs much evaluation time. To set a destionation humidity will not work, because can't ensure that the box will ever reach this humidity. So the box might run endless. For safety reasons i wouldn't do this. As you have seen, the software is quite complex and not written in a few days. The afford would be to much to refactor the software for this.

​@@werners_corner WOW, I didn't expect a such quick reply. Many thanks. I understand that you're spent a hundred hours to write this code and even my colleague, who is a programmer was impressed about your code and said that it was written by a PRO guy) Ok, lets forget about humidity control, but what about OLED display? Is there any chance to implement this upgrade?

@@colinmcrae007 I think you mean a graphical OLED display. At first step i thought about this. But i discard this becaus the Nano has a limit of 2K storage for variables. The current software consumes a bit about 1000 bytes for parameter variables. To use an OLED a additional buffer of 980 bytes is necessary. This would blow up the memory for variables. Second reason: the OLED also uses I2C. The graphical display would highly increase the traffic on the I2C, which will lead in timing issues for the temperature control. Someone has tried a 4x20 character LCD instead 2x16 and bumped into timing issues. It took to much time to transfer the data for the 4x20 over the I2C. I think for this, there would be a more powerfull controler than teh Nano necessary.

​@@werners_cornerOh, now I understand. What about ESP8266 NodeMCU or ESP32? Do they meet the requirements and can handle your project?

@@colinmcrae007 Regarding the specs, they should easy handle this. Might be they are even a bit oversized, but fine. I didn't used an ESP32 until now. But i guess the software will be totaly different and results in a new software. I think a Nano Every should also have enough memory. But the timing has to be evaluated and a refactoring at this point would be necessary.

The volume of your box is 12 times bigger then my box. So the amount of heaters and power would be at least 12 times higher.

@werners_corner if i get a more powerful heater?

@@PilavakisGiannis Shure you can try it. I guess you need at least 600W for heating.

Generally, this should work. Due to the lower resistance, a stronger power supply will be required. Try it out. I haven't tried a 100W PTC myself yet. The parameters for the control may need to be adjusted.

@@werners_corner Thanks will try it out

@@rsmgaming4384 Great. Let me know, if it works. Also if you need further help.

So ganz verstehe ich die Frage nicht. Wenn du die Box wie gezeigt bearbeitest, werden die Löcher an der Seite von den Druckteilen abgedeckt. Was da ggf. an Undichtigkeit übrig bleibt, kann man vernachlässigen. Spätestens nach ein paar Tagen komme ich mit frischem Silikat auf 10% und weniger. Ausser, dein Filament hat bereits soviel Feuchtigkeit gezogen, dass das Silikat die nicht mehr aufnehmen kann. Dann solltest du dir dein Silikat mal anschauen und ggf. nochmal austauschen. Bei ein oder zwei Rollen hatte ich auch schon einen ähnlichen Effekt bzw. waren die wohl bereits sehr feucht. Die habe ich dann erstmal ein paar Stunden in die beheizte Trockenbox gesteckt. Danach gingen die in der passiven Box auch auf 10% runter.

@@werners_corner vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort! Das was du beschreibst wäre auch meine Vermutung gewesen, aber selbst ohne Filament geht die Feuchtigkeit - nach 24h - nicht weiter runter... Aber danke, dann teste ich weiter rum...

@@FaWa-TV Das ist aber sehr merkwürdig. Das deutet eher darauf hin, dass der Fehler woanders liegt, wenn nicht mal Filament in der Box ist. Du kannst mich gerne auf printables oder über meine Kanal eMail (findest du in der Kanalbeschreibung, Button anklicken) zwecks Ursachforschung anschreiben. Das geht besser als hier über die Kommentarfunktion.

I bought this glue gun on amazon. But i paid less then the current price. www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0943BMJDD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@werners_corner Thanks

About 50 euros. Maybe a few Euros more.

Basically this should also work fine, as far as it can get hot enough. I think it wont fit into the housing. So you might have to design your own housing if necessary. But keep in mind, that the used PTC heater protect it self from overheating. So need to have an eye on this. Try it out. The MosFets can handle this as well.

@@werners_corner Thanks for advice. Maybe implement passive thermal protection?

@@Ocenazadania Not in any case. Ensure, that the DHT11 is always working. Since Version 0.48, the box stops heating/work if the sensor does not work. Try out and evaluate the heater. If you are using a 50/60 W power supply, as recommended, there should nothing bad happen. Kepp an eye on it and don't burn your house down :)

20-25% hatte ich genommen. Das hält!

@@werners_corner ok danke

@@michaelkollek8303 Gerne. Aber hast du eventuell zu dicke Schrauben genommen? Die Bohrungen sind für Spax 2,5 x 20 ausgelegt. Es soll ja keine "Schwerlast" an die Schranktür gehängt werden. Aber mit 20-25% Infill patzt da nichts. Ist mir zumindest noch nicht passiert. Und ich mittlerweile so einige Schranktüren ausgerüstet.

@@werners_corner nein alles gut , passt jetzt, echt nützlich

I guess you have a mistake in your wiring. Check all conections, if they are properly done. I think you have overseen one ore more connection. Software uploaded to Arduino? Recommended steps: - Start with software versiion 0.48 - github.com/werner-rh/drybox-control/tree/v0.48 - disconnect fans and heater and focus on display and rotary encoder. Does the power up message and main menu appear after power up (without touching the encoder) ?

No nothing is coming on display just light you can check pictures on given link

@@xeondxb There is no link. You can send to me by mail (see chanel description for the addres). I gues you havn't connected the i2c bus correctly. Check the wiring. Software is uploaded to Arduino?

Please check your 3d website what link you shared in description I have post comments I can not find email description of this website

I can not share link in comments TH-cam deleting it self

Did you check the linked files (see video description or first, pinned comment) on printables? There you find all you need. Including wiring diagramm. For flashing you only need Arduino Ide and an usb cable.

Got it thank you 🎉

Nein ich denke das wird damit nicht funktionieren. Isoliert habe ich meine Box zwar auch bereits, aber das dient eher dazu, die Zieltemperatur schneller zu erreichen und besser zu halten. Der verwendete PTC macht bei ca. gut 70 Grad zu. In der Box erreiche ich mit einem PTC max. 58C. Mein erstes PTC Gehäuse aus PLA+ hatte ich damit aber schon geschmolzen. PETG kann da mehr ab. Womit das zweite PTC Ghäuse hält. Aber auch das würde dann bei noch höherer Temperatur auch irgendwann weich werden. Ob die Ikea Box das auf Dauer ab kann (90-100), wär ich mir auch nicht so sicher. Da müsste schon einiges umdimensioniert werden. Vor allem muss man dann aufpassen, dass man sich nicht einen potenziellen Brandherd baut.

1. Install Arduino IDE 2. Download Code 3. Open code in IDe 4. Connect Arduino Nano with usb 5. In IDE select: Tools -> Boards -> Arduino AVR Boards -> Arduino Nano 6. In IDE select: Tools -> Ports -> the com port where Arduino appears 7. In IDE select: Tools -> Processor -> ATmega328p. If you have a china clone with ch340 select ATmega328p old bootloader 8. Compile and upload the code

Try to get this one: www.amazon.de/dp/B0CPP5KGJ4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

The sensor costs between 2-3€. See the partlist and links on printable.com!

@@werners_corner ok, so i clicked your amazon link and it showed 13 bucks, but thats for 6 pieces, so i guess its 2 dollars each, still i think all in all this is more than 10 dollars, i will remove my downvote, there will be no upvote ;(

@@lutfijd At recording time it was between 9,84 and 10,55 Euro. Are angry about 50Cent?

@@werners_corner lmao no, im just saying the whole setup is certainly more than 10 euros. thats all. the sensors on their own arent much, its just when you add it all together its more than 10 euros. lol thats it. ;)

1. Code (mit allen zug. Dateien) von Github laden 2. Arduino IDE installieren (falls noch nicht geschehen) 3. Ggf. Bibliothek installieren (aus der Arduino IDE) 4. Code in der IDE öffnen und schauen, ob er fehlerfrei übersetzt wird (sonst Fehler suchen) 5. Arduino per USB mit PC verbinden (vorher Treiber installieren. China-Boards: CH340) 6. Board auswählen. Z.B. Arduino Nano (ATMega328). Bei China-Nanos "alten Bootloader" auswählen. 7. Hochladen - fertig Ehrlich gesagt sprengt eine wirklich ausführliche Anleitung die Kommentarfunktion von YT. Bei Problemen, gerne auch auf printables Kontakt aufnehmen.