Great video! I appreciate that you showed how to drain the bock, it really wasnt difficult. I noticed if you turn your wheels all the way to the right, it provides plenty of space to get at the block drains and you dont need to jack up the rig.
Also, I do appreciate him showing how to get the most out of the coolant system the amount he’s pulling out from the heater hoses and the block seem negligible. You’re going to get your bulk amount of coolant when you drain the radiator.
For me this is overkill. I just drain/fill the radiator with distilled water a # of times until clear. Of course I run the engine in-between each fill to cycle everything. I've never drained the block through those drain ports on the engine. Once I see clear water I personally will do this about 3-4 more times just for extra security that every bit of old fluid/residue is out. I then put in the new fluid. To get any air bubbles I just squeeze the hoses and I shake/rock the truck on each side. Some say you should change the thermostat housing each time. DO NOT change if there are no issues. The only issue is if there is corrosion around the gasket area. Again, I have 260k+ miles and original radiator, water pump and thermostat. BTW - request the "old" red fluid at your Toyota dealer. It comes undiluted. I have a 2014 Tundra which now has 260k...no issues EVER with this truck. Don't buy the pre mixed stuff for major $$$ that the book recommends. The "old" red fluid is suitable for our Tundras - confirmed by Toyota when I enquired.
We have a shop out here in Southern AZ. On occasion, we contracted with a radiator business that served several dealerships for over 30 years. The owner/manager always suggested to change the thermostat every 5 years, when we flushed the cooling system. Why? Thermostats can stick and over time, that spring wears out. This typically occurs in the Summers when the engine is under greater stress due to our very hot Summer weather. He recommended to replace the coolant between 50-60,000 miles because the coolant breaks down. We also do not use tap water (due to high mineral content) We always change the thermostats and the radiator cap and never had a vehicle return for overheating problems (unless it was a cracked radiation tank/expansion tank. It's not worth loosing an engine or warping a head or head gasket just to save the cost of a thermostat and cap. Yes, most certainly an overkill to many, but then again, we are aware of where we live and climate.
Another great video much appreciated, thanks! Your videos give me the confidence to do these things myself. Looking forward to a belt/tensioner video next.
Emptying the heater core is a good idea BUT... now you run the chance of air locking the system. I would have put the lower hose on and filled the system from there. Put the upper hose back on. And then fill the radiator/rest of the system.
My only concern if you live in the salt belt or rust belt, careful loosening engine bolts. They will ring off very easy and you will have a really bad day. My opinion, let the dealer do this job. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you a ton when something does not go your way.
The engine block drain bolts are made of brass and are threaded into a stainless steel drain valve. The drain bolt is only torqued to ~10 ft-lbs so if it doesn’t break free easily (especially in the rust belt or with an older vehicle) I wouldn’t touch them because, as you said if they were to shear off it’s gonna be a bad day. If you drain and fill your radiator every 30-50K miles it isn’t necessary to try and drain the engine block. It also really helps prevent air bubbles getting stuck in the cooling system, especially the heater core.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I really like all your videos, nice videos. I have one question for you. I have lexus ls400 , almost the same engine with your toyota truck , What if I change my coolant and I put a Mitsubishi orignal coolant ( the blue coolant ) not toyota the red one , is any issue with taht ?
Coolant types are formulated for specific cars because of the materials that they use internally. The gaskets and o-rings on the thermostat, head gasket, and other places react well to the coolant they were designed for. This is actually a bigger topic than you might realize. It’s worth the research you want to study up on it.
@@ToolDemos Thank you for your answer. Thank you very much , OK then , what is the best coolant for my lexus what do you think is the best one? Its lexus ls 400 96 model , the engine model is 1UZFE , please advise me ,,, Right now i am using the OEM coolant from toyota , its fine , but when i saw you putting AISN brand , I thought maybe it will be better than the OEM , Thank you again.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 originally your car came with red Toyota long life coolant. Toyota has switched to pink super long life coolant. If you flush your entire system, you can put the pink coolant in there and you’ll be OK.
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated.. Quick question about the adjustable round heater hose removal pliers. Do you have a part number or location where the pliers can be purchased? I have checked your Amazon store to no avail. Thanks for your help in this matter sir.
@@ToolDemos Thank you sir for your quick response and information. Great content on your videos. I appreciate your attention to details in your videos.
have a link to that hose plyer? seems like a worthy investment, ive heard people just leaned on that hose when doing other things , it snapped off and cost them a new radiator
Aisin is the OEM for many Toyota components including coolant. They make high quality products that I am always happy to use. On the coolant container it says OEM engineered formula. It is made specifically for Toyota/Lexus. I did get a better deal on this coolant compared to the Toyota dealer, which is a good thing.
So I bought my 2020 tundra brand new. I’m at 40,000 miles. I change my oil myself, and cab/intake filters myself. Well now the trucks getting older, with more miles. I’m going to change the transfer case and diffs myself at this next oil change. Is there any discrepancies about when coolant changes (no frequent heavy tows) and transmission oil changes?
Coolant is at the first 100,000 then every 50,000 after that only. Transmission (and gear oil) do have a severe duty maintenance schedule. High heat, heavy loads, and dirt roads can all be factors in oil/lube frequency.
@@ToolDemos that is an extremely fair Point. I say the same about brakes and people who use automatic gear selects to slow them selfs down (not in tow, or any justifiable reasons). Thank you for your time, and replying to my comment.
Yes, but you need to have a way to purge the air from the system. This is especially important if you drained the heater core. Lisle has a no spill radiator funnel that’ll help you do that without the vacuum system.
That’s a Topscan Pro, it pairs with your phone or tablet. Amazon: amzn.to/3RBubh1 My review: th-cam.com/video/OHoekIfKkHM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SnFX4fxTXUvoTYSu
I don't know what it is about the residential construction style of our subdivisions, but they scream "FLORIDA"... Thanks for your video. Have a 2011 Sequoia that needs this done. Your video gave me the confidence to do it on my own. @@ToolDemos
Great video! I appreciate that you showed how to drain the bock, it really wasnt difficult. I noticed if you turn your wheels all the way to the right, it provides plenty of space to get at the block drains and you dont need to jack up the rig.
Great tip!
Perfect timing, I really needed this for my 2.5 gen thanks for your efforts on this one!
Right on!
Im just going to drain and fill the radiator every couple of years. That should keep it fresh enough.
Same..
Exactly keep it simple and good enough
Also, I do appreciate him showing how to get the most out of the coolant system the amount he’s pulling out from the heater hoses and the block seem negligible. You’re going to get your bulk amount of coolant when you drain the radiator.
Man, you are always right on time for the projects I need to do! Thank you so much!!
That’s pretty cool. Glad it’s helpful.
@@ToolDemos the 5.7 tundra has to be the best truck ever produced! Love it
For me this is overkill. I just drain/fill the radiator with distilled water a # of times until clear. Of course I run the engine in-between each fill to cycle everything. I've never drained the block through those drain ports on the engine. Once I see clear water I personally will do this about 3-4 more times just for extra security that every bit of old fluid/residue is out. I then put in the new fluid. To get any air bubbles I just squeeze the hoses and I shake/rock the truck on each side. Some say you should change the thermostat housing each time. DO NOT change if there are no issues. The only issue is if there is corrosion around the gasket area. Again, I have 260k+ miles and original radiator, water pump and thermostat.
BTW - request the "old" red fluid at your Toyota dealer. It comes undiluted. I have a 2014 Tundra which now has 260k...no issues EVER with this truck. Don't buy the pre mixed stuff for major $$$ that the book recommends. The "old" red fluid is suitable for our Tundras - confirmed by Toyota when I enquired.
You’re doing a great job with your Tundra. I hope you keep ‘er going another 260k.
We have a shop out here in Southern AZ. On occasion, we contracted with a radiator business that served several dealerships for over 30 years. The owner/manager always suggested to change the thermostat every 5 years, when we flushed the cooling system. Why? Thermostats can stick and over time, that spring wears out. This typically occurs in the Summers when the engine is under greater stress due to our very hot Summer weather. He recommended to replace the coolant between 50-60,000 miles because the coolant breaks down. We also do not use tap water (due to high mineral content) We always change the thermostats and the radiator cap and never had a vehicle return for overheating problems (unless it was a cracked radiation tank/expansion tank. It's not worth loosing an engine or warping a head or head gasket just to save the cost of a thermostat and cap. Yes, most certainly an overkill to many, but then again, we are aware of where we live and climate.
Tip. Leave your rad cap on and it will pull the fluid out of your over flow as well.
Nice! Good tip.
oddly enough my 2016 is creeping up on 100K good stuff to know!
Another great video much appreciated, thanks! Your videos give me the confidence to do these things myself.
Looking forward to a belt/tensioner video next.
I’m really happy to hear that. The belt tensioner video is coming soon.
Emptying the heater core is a good idea BUT... now you run the chance of air locking the system. I would have put the lower hose on and filled the system from there. Put the upper hose back on. And then fill the radiator/rest of the system.
Not a bad idea.
Awesome video Steve thanks for sharing.
Thanks Tony!
Great content! Keep it up my friend!
Thanks G Money!
My only concern if you live in the salt belt or rust belt, careful loosening engine bolts. They will ring off very easy and you will have a really bad day. My opinion, let the dealer do this job. Sometimes trying to save money can cost you a ton when something does not go your way.
The engine block drain bolts are made of brass and are threaded into a stainless steel drain valve. The drain bolt is only torqued to ~10 ft-lbs so if it doesn’t break free easily (especially in the rust belt or with an older vehicle) I wouldn’t touch them because, as you said if they were to shear off it’s gonna be a bad day. If you drain and fill your radiator every 30-50K miles it isn’t necessary to try and drain the engine block. It also really helps prevent air bubbles getting stuck in the cooling system, especially the heater core.
glad is subscribed good content!
Thanks! Glad you’re here.
Omg I might as well get my local repair shop to do it for $165.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I really like all your videos, nice videos. I have one question for you.
I have lexus ls400 , almost the same engine with your toyota truck , What if I change my coolant and I put a Mitsubishi orignal coolant ( the blue coolant ) not toyota the red one , is any issue with taht ?
Coolant types are formulated for specific cars because of the materials that they use internally. The gaskets and o-rings on the thermostat, head gasket, and other places react well to the coolant they were designed for.
This is actually a bigger topic than you might realize. It’s worth the research you want to study up on it.
@@ToolDemos Thank you for your answer. Thank you very much , OK then , what is the best coolant for my lexus what do you think is the best one? Its lexus ls 400 96 model , the engine model is 1UZFE , please advise me ,,, Right now i am using the OEM coolant from toyota , its fine , but when i saw you putting AISN brand , I thought maybe it will be better than the OEM , Thank you again.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 originally your car came with red Toyota long life coolant. Toyota has switched to pink super long life coolant. If you flush your entire system, you can put the pink coolant in there and you’ll be OK.
@@hussienabukhalil2012 Aisin makes the OEM coolant for Toyota it's the same thing. Specifically formulated for Toyota/Lexus
Heard you could drain the block from the oil cooler? Supposedly its the lowest point to drain on the truck and gets it all out.
I haven’t tried that, it could work.
@@ToolDemos ill let you know. I have to do a service on mine soon and will be doing this.
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
What pliers are those? They will definitely help with water heater hoses!
They are Blue Point heater hose pliers. (They were discontinued)
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated.. Quick question about the adjustable round heater hose removal pliers. Do you have a part number or location where the pliers can be purchased? I have checked your Amazon store to no avail. Thanks for your help in this matter sir.
Those are Blue Point YA9660. Snap On no longer makes/sells them. eBay is the best place to try.
@@ToolDemos Thank you sir for your quick response and information. Great content on your videos. I appreciate your attention to details in your videos.
@@ILwoodsman I’m glad to hear that, thanks. Cheers!
Trying to find that “Thermo Sensor” vent thermometer. Do you have a brand and model? Great video, and will be doing mine soon.
It’s made by Power Probe, handy little tool: amzn.to/3SrnwY6
have a link to that hose plyer? seems like a worthy investment, ive heard people just leaned on that hose when doing other things , it snapped off and cost them a new radiator
Ouch! These: amzn.to/3ZGc2Ca are definitely worth having.
Thanks!! Do you have a link to the hose clamp pliers you took off the heater lines with?
Happy wrenching!
Good video. You spend a lot of money on tools but you didn’t use Toyota coolant.
Aisin is the OEM for many Toyota components including coolant. They make high quality products that I am always happy to use. On the coolant container it says OEM engineered formula. It is made specifically for Toyota/Lexus. I did get a better deal on this coolant compared to the Toyota dealer, which is a good thing.
Struggling to find that 2nd engine drain plug. Gotta change water pump at work and have picture where it’s supposed to be but can’t find it
I know, it’s tough to see. Change the angle where you’re looking. When you find it, you won’t un-find it. (If that makes sense)
So I bought my 2020 tundra brand new. I’m at 40,000 miles. I change my oil myself, and cab/intake filters myself. Well now the trucks getting older, with more miles. I’m going to change the transfer case and diffs myself at this next oil change. Is there any discrepancies about when coolant changes (no frequent heavy tows) and transmission oil changes?
Coolant is at the first 100,000 then every 50,000 after that only. Transmission (and gear oil) do have a severe duty maintenance schedule. High heat, heavy loads, and dirt roads can all be factors in oil/lube frequency.
@@ToolDemos I live in the high Rocky Mountains, so steep roads. But I do not tow. Rarely on dirt roads. What would you recommend for transmission?
@@coltrockwell5467 I like 30k intervals personally. Transmissions are expensive.
@@ToolDemos that is an extremely fair
Point. I say the same about brakes and people who use automatic gear selects to slow them selfs down (not in tow, or any justifiable reasons).
Thank you for your time, and replying to my comment.
Are the engine drains 10 mm? Sorry if it was said and I missed it. Thanks
It is a 10mm, might not have mentioned that.
How long was the extension you used to access the drain on the engine block?
That was a 24” locking extension.
How much coolant did it take? How many jugs?
Just over 3 gallons.
Can I just refill without having the use the pressurized tool?
Yes, but you need to have a way to purge the air from the system. This is especially important if you drained the heater core. Lisle has a no spill radiator funnel that’ll help you do that without the vacuum system.
What coolant, that’s the big question, everyone has an opinion
Toyota or Aisin pink worked for me.
@@ToolDemos agree with that take, aisin is Napa right??
@@symple001 honestly, I don’t know who makes Napa’s coolant.
What tool
That hose clamp is wrong and your bird feeder is empty!!
I guess I should use a worm clamp and some zip-ties. Lol
@@ToolDemos lmao
How you put air in the hose
amzn.to/3XwE0RL
I was hoping this would be easier....
Understandable
Did you say toyota says to change at the 1st 100k?
Yes
What scanner are you using
That’s a Topscan Pro, it pairs with your phone or tablet. Amazon: amzn.to/3RBubh1
My review: th-cam.com/video/OHoekIfKkHM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SnFX4fxTXUvoTYSu
This looks like Tampa area... are you in FL?
Yup, Jax
I don't know what it is about the residential construction style of our subdivisions, but they scream "FLORIDA"... Thanks for your video. Have a 2011 Sequoia that needs this done. Your video gave me the confidence to do it on my own. @@ToolDemos