Dude you are an absolutely amazing mechanic and even though I do all my own work I'd still bring it to you just cause you're beyond top shelf! Cheers 🙂
Looking at a service truck with a similar issue and there mechanic did the repairs..boy I pray it’s that simple. Already ran a cylinder balance & contribution test which points to cylinder 3 and then a relative compression test and it let me know itit weren’t a valve/cylinder issue. Lastly, you sound almost like Billy Bob Thorton lol Appreciate the video man
Glad you figured it out. Can’t believe that some people just didn’t get the job done right. Own a scan tool that will allow you to do the job right. Obviously, you do.
I have a 2012 F250 6.7. 300,000 miles on the truck. Motor and all. 300K miles. It’s deleted. I know the fuel system is bad. I found metal shavings down in my lift pump canister before I pulled the ccv valve off the CP4. When I pulled that valve off there was no metal shavings. So that told me my crank no start was a fuel system issue. Just did not know what exactly was bad. I replaced my lift pump with (All OEM filters/lift pump). Cycled the key 6 intervals.. Still crank no start. At this point I knew the fuel system had to be replaced. I just had no more personal time to play with the truck. So I had a mechanic do some diagnosing and he did a compression test and it was reading 129 (Mean Cranking RPM) Cylinder 3 is 5% and Cylinder 5 is 12% .. long story short he said he thinks it could be a ring but theres no fixing this kind of issue. He recommended a new long block engine and a new fuel system. Costing me around 20K. I found a place that rebuilds engines. They could rebuild it for 9K with 3 year warranty and up to 36K miles. I was like well that’s 17K. A little cheaper than the mechanic, but it would be my same engine. …In your opinion.. there’s no “changing out the injectors on cylinder 3 and 5 and a new fuel system and hoping for the best right?” Or should I try getting it rebuilt? Or go with a new long block engine?
@@tprice3450 before I worried about the injectors I’d put that dcr pump on it. Then throw a new set of injectors in. Save yourself the headache of having it fail and replacing everything.
That's on the agenda too. I'm looking at doing several things at once. New Mishimoto intercooler, radiator, oil cooler and aux transmission cooler, DCR pump, injectors and fuel rails. Just for shitz and giggles, I'll install a new turbo too, because why not. If the injectors are due at this mileage, I'll do it now. If I can squeeze a few more miles out of them I will. Again, what's the shelf life on these injectors? BTW, I'm running a disaster prevention kit for the last 250K and HotShot Diesel Extreme and EDD as recommended. So far, no glitter detected.
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Moved injectors around on a 2014 truck, good lord this isn't a 12 valve. Glad this dude found you guys, saved himself a whole lot of time and money.
@@packingbone1953 that’s exactly what I was thinking when he told me that
Better off taking an old line and capping the cylinder you want to check
@@007.3l why that’s what a scanner is for
You’re a hell of a mechanic man. This is definitely your calling
@@AnsleyBuilt thanks bud
Dude you are an absolutely amazing mechanic and even though I do all my own work I'd still bring it to you just cause you're beyond top shelf! Cheers 🙂
@@Powerstroke431 thanks bud
All the Comments are SPOT 😅N!!! Hell of a GOOD SHOP!!
Great Job!!!! I live in Tennessee as well. Just wish you were closer.
ONCE AGAIN.....GREAT WORK.....AND AS USUAL.....AUTOMOTIVE COMMON SENSE.....
Looking at a service truck with a similar issue and there mechanic did the repairs..boy I pray it’s that simple. Already ran a cylinder balance & contribution test which points to cylinder 3 and then a relative compression test and it let me know itit weren’t a valve/cylinder issue. Lastly, you sound almost like Billy Bob Thorton lol Appreciate the video man
@@dsdiesel8667 usually I’m told I sound like Hank Hill but billy bob ain’t bad either
@@AutomedicGarage someone commented on one of mine and said Boomhauer so not bad lol
@@AutomedicGarage
You work on transmissions
10 speed
2020 ford f250 6.7
@@maximinohernandez118 nope I do removal and replacements but send out transmissions for rebuilds
Glad you figured it out. Can’t believe that some people just didn’t get the job done right. Own a scan tool that will allow you to do the job right. Obviously, you do.
'02 Excursion 7.3 here, signed up with Patreon today, as "insurance" if I need you.
left a comment for you... have a good day sir.
You made that look easy 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 what scanner would you recommend for diy that can do this job?
@@GarzaDiesel I use autoenginuity but in this video I was using a cheap launch scanner I have to see if I would do it
@@AutomedicGaragedo you have a link for that scanner? I’m about to attempt to do them on my truck.
I have a 2012 F250 6.7. 300,000 miles on the truck. Motor and all. 300K miles. It’s deleted. I know the fuel system is bad. I found metal shavings down in my lift pump canister before I pulled the ccv valve off the CP4. When I pulled that valve off there was no metal shavings. So that told me my crank no start was a fuel system issue. Just did not know what exactly was bad. I replaced my lift pump with (All OEM filters/lift pump). Cycled the key 6 intervals.. Still crank no start. At this point I knew the fuel system had to be replaced. I just had no more personal time to play with the truck. So I had a mechanic do some diagnosing and he did a compression test and it was reading 129 (Mean Cranking RPM) Cylinder 3 is 5% and Cylinder 5 is 12% .. long story short he said he thinks it could be a ring but theres no fixing this kind of issue. He recommended a new long block engine and a new fuel system. Costing me around 20K. I found a place that rebuilds engines. They could rebuild it for 9K with 3 year warranty and up to 36K miles. I was like well that’s 17K. A little cheaper than the mechanic, but it would be my same engine. …In your opinion.. there’s no “changing out the injectors on cylinder 3 and 5 and a new fuel system and hoping for the best right?” Or should I try getting it rebuilt? Or go with a new long block engine?
9k for a rebuild with that kind of warranty is pretty good
When WOULD you recommend a new set of injectors. Asking caust im turning 350K on the originals and fuel economy is starting to slip.
@@tprice3450 you still running a cp4?
@@AutomedicGarage yeH, and I've made lots of room both in the engine bay and underneath the truck.
@@tprice3450 before I worried about the injectors I’d put that dcr pump on it. Then throw a new set of injectors in. Save yourself the headache of having it fail and replacing everything.
That's on the agenda too. I'm looking at doing several things at once. New Mishimoto intercooler, radiator, oil cooler and aux transmission cooler, DCR pump, injectors and fuel rails. Just for shitz and giggles, I'll install a new turbo too, because why not. If the injectors are due at this mileage, I'll do it now. If I can squeeze a few more miles out of them I will. Again, what's the shelf life on these injectors? BTW, I'm running a disaster prevention kit for the last 250K and HotShot Diesel Extreme and EDD as recommended. So far, no glitter detected.