CORRECTION: I emailed Anker and they told me the power station featured in this video can be overpaneled. This means you can connect solar panels that exceed its stated current and wattage limits. So the first 200 watt panel I showed would in fact be compatible. Check out this video to learn more about overpaneling - th-cam.com/video/wu7KV-kAXlA/w-d-xo.html
I see a couple of others have already mentioned it, but your guidance on not exceeding the amperage rating is demonstrating a lack of understanding on how PV input works. In simple terms, "volts are pushed, amps are pulled". You can't control how many volts a panel pushes to a device, but the amps are pulled by the device, so within reason, you can absolutely exceed the amp rating without any issues. Stay under the VoC and you'll be in good shape, but you can safely "over-panel" by exceeding the amp number shows on any power station. That's just a number explaining the max amount it will pull.
@@kakdelauze - Those big, heavy batteries (SLA/AGM) now cost more than lithium iron-phosphate. Why buy something that costs the same or more, weighs twice as much, has half the usable capacity, 1/5th the total life-cycle, and suffers voltage sag as the SOC drops? Stop living in 1950.
WoW! Thank you Jason ,flipzkidn and Tim Gray. I cancelled my solar panels due to misunderstanding the otherwise informative TH-cam clip, and then realised that actually, all was fine when I read the comments! I then contacted Anker who replied back within hours - Great customer service. DO NOT exceed the started Volts 60V. So you can use panel (s) as long as the VOLTS DO NOT EXCEED the upper Voltage statement on the Solix C1000 label i.e. between 11v-60v .(the Pull from solar panels). The max AMPS the unit can actually take is either between 10A and 12.5A. (The draw). The unit will not accept anymore , and will NOT be damaged. Here in the UK we have LOTS of total cloud cover so the larger the Watts up to 600w the better. (This 600w is amount the Solix C1000 can process and is the Max for the Solix C1000), Other makes will be different: However, you could have panel(s) rated in total to be above this - really useful for gathering electricity in cloudy /occluded conditions and a waste of money where the sun shines constantly! The VOLTS is the key differentiator. NEVER plug in a system over the 60V whether it is one panel or multiple panels that total UP to the stated 60v.
@@drinksafewater - You can hook up 1200w of panels, so long as the VoC doesn't exceed 60 volts. Say your PV array is putting out 50 volts; the power station will draw a max of about 12 amps, regardless of how big the array is. Watts are calculated as volts x amps, so 50 volts x 12 amps = 600 watts. Volts are pushed and amps are pulled...don't exceed the VoC and don't worry about the amps/watts.
The info you have given on Amps is incorrect. Volts are pushed and amps are pulled. You can over Amp all day and the power station will never draw more that its requested 10 or 12.5 amp. Its actually a good thing to have more Amps by over paneling. This will help on cloudy days. Over voltage is BAD, do that and you will let the magic smoke out of the box.
I was just watching Jehu Garcia plug a 48V rack battery into the solar input on an eco flo delta pro to show that you can charge the delta pro from an external big battery. I have an Anker F2000 [737] and would like to do the same. Are you wizards saying that the Anker F2000 will pull up to its max amperage but no more, regardless of what the 48v rack battery can provide? Will the Anker limit the amps to what it can take in? Manual says the Anker will pull 10 amps at 11-32v and 20amps at 33-60v, so the 48v rack battery is in a sweet spot
I love your videos! Very newbie-friendly. I’ve seen comments highlighting that you made some errors concerning amps, but please just integrate that knowledge and keep making videos! Your format is still great and not knowing everything is not a problem.
Dude! This video is outstanding. Having just come through hurricane Helene in Asheville, I'm beefing up my power backup game. I have an Anker power station, but kept wondering if I NEEDED to go with the name brand solar panel. Your video help me make that decision.
Going to save this video. This is very needed information. Thanks dude. My wh is 1476, i think. Haven't got it yet i bought 2-100w, 12 A solar panel and i hope it works. I would have bought 400W, but i didn't have the money.. i hope 200 is enough
Great vlogs.... So thank you 🙏... I have just started my retirement years, and after 30 years, have finally convinced my wife to retire in SW France. I am hoping to start my own project by going as "off-grid" as possible, with perhaps disconnecting from the grid entirely and substituting and additionally needed power by using a Hydrogen generator....(Oh, and during the lovely SW French sun period in the summer, producing my own Green hydrogen).... Keep those videos coming as your "Janet &John" approach makes things clear to dumb-sculls 🤪like me. Well done 👍
Note: the Anker will auto limit the power. I fed mine with 60Amps of solar. the anker self limited to 10A. Here is why you want to out 60A of panels on it. 60 Amps of solar panels gives me 10 Amps of solar power on a cloudy day. I fully charge in 4 hours on an overcast day. Sunny days I'm just wasting any power that is created, smart thing would be to tap off it and charge up 2-3 of the anker batteries at the same time when sunny.
Be sure to read comments above because the video is wrong about amps and watts. You can and should use higher amp and watt panels than the max your power station can draw. You should also run panels in series so the sum of their open circuit voltage is below the max input of your power station. This will give you more charging on cloudy days because the voltage from the panels will still exceed the minimum voltage required by your power station for allowing charging to start.
Several comments about the amps pulled, but no one mentioned that if you do the math on the solar panel at 4:00, you can put two of those panels in series for 45V at 12.21A, giving you just under 550 Watts maximum power at the input of your Anker.
I purchased two 200W Renology 12v solar panels off of Amazon. They are usually on sale and they are way cheaper than Anker's solar panels, and they usually work better at solar than Anker's panels. They work great with my Anker f3800 power station! Anker's is nicer for portability, but they need to do better with their panels since Renology beats theirs.
Just found your channel and I must say I love your videos. Thank you! Although I have a background on electronics engineering my solar kit knowledge is limited. Cheers, from Portugal
This was very informative. I’m a beginner and will be starting with 2 lithium batteries but I’m unsure about how many solar panels I need. Can you do a video.
Multiply Ah and voltage of battery it gives u capacity in Wh 100W panel will produce 100wh in an hour, 50wh in 30 min in reality the 100w will make more like 50w so, True power of a panel is manufactures wattage · 0.5 I say Solar panel power should be 3 or 2 times the capacity So 10Ah 12v cell is 120Wh so panels should be about 250W (But do your own reasearch too and those are just my recomendations)
Can't the first panel (22V and 12.2A) be put in series with another identical one and actually have 44V 12.2A which is in spec for the higher voltage range and still 400W so under the 600W limit?
Finally found a channel that makes it easy for a solar moron to understand the details. Thanks for this. I have learned and understood more in the last 2 video's than I have in many others. Subscribed and will be watching more.
careful...as others have pointed out, this guy is making beginner mistakes, and he's teaching you to make those mistakes. I am a beginner too, but in reading all of these comments I realize that even as a beginner, I know as much or more than this TH-camr
Except he’s wrong about the amps and watt limit. You actually should get a panel that produces more amps and watts than what your power station can pull to help produce more power on cloudy days. You should go as high as possible with the voltage without ever exceeding. Use the higher open circuit voltage on the panel to ensure you don’t exceed this.
In a grid down situation, would the panels on my home still send power to my outlets? Or is there some device that prioritizes the grid in that situation?
Are you able to run the power outputs while charging? If you had to guess what the threshold was where you still can charge while using , what is that draw?
i see others have mentioned this but your take on the amps is not accurate. number one rule is never over voltage a unit! all of my power stations(i own Bluetti, Jackery,Anker and Oupes) will accept over watts and over amps and the mppt controller is fine with that. Collecting solar is a fluid and dynamic thing and over paneling is common to get good collection with less than ideal conditions.
Begging for help here.. I currently have a brand new Anker solix c1000x. I have one compatible 170w rigid solar panel. Everything I Raa we as says I need a charge controller still if I’m connecting the power station directly to the panel? Is this true? Adapter looks like it just connects right to the panel. This is going to be in a fixed position on my shed roof. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the video. I recently purchased the F2000 that came with 2 SOLIX PS200 Portable Solar Panel (200W). I want to purchase additional cheaper panels to add to the current array to boost the solar input wattage. From my limited research, I have found that the typical cheaper panel is 100w 12v. How would you configure your circuits? I was considering having 4 - 100w 12v panels in a series; then adding that series into a parallel with the other anker panels. This would allow each parallel circuits to have similar voltage (48v). Is there any danger is this type of set up?
Hi. We just went through Hurricane Helene. I have no knowledge of this product category. I ordered an Anker C2000 with a 100-watt panel. It seems like I should have gone with a larger panel, but it's already shipped. Can I buy some other panel and use it in conjunction with the Anker panel? If so what cable to I need? Sorry for the beginner question. Thanks for any input.
I am looking at getting the Renoogy 200w Fordable Solar panel for this. It looks like its 10.5A where is should be 10A. Will this work with these specs? Max Power at STC: 200 W Open Circuit Voltage: 23.40V Short Circuit Current: 10.50A Optimum Operating Voltage: 20.16V Optimum Operating Current: 9.92A
I bought the 200-watt Anker solar panel in a bundle deal with the Solix C1000 so panel cost $350 that way. Still, should've done more research first and gone with a cheaper panel. The most input I've been able to get from it is 135 watts on a sunny summer day in PA. That seems very low for it's rating, definately disappointed in the panel's performance, esp for the cost.
HOBOTECH just did a great video series about how voltage, amperage, and wattage all work. I'd highly recommend watching them and then reposting the video. You can even see his picture by your hand at 4:50 (right when you get wrong how amperage works). After that, I'd also recommend watching some videos on over-paneling (I live in Washington and it's pretty much a necessity).
The main advantage of the Anker solar panel is that it is perfectly matched to get the 600-watt maximum the Anker supports. I haven't found any other panels that match as closely.
Question... I have a 1200w, 1000wh {999wh} with an input of 200watts of solar Power station. i was told i can get a 12v to 24v converter and attach to my 100w solar panel, then the power bank above, so i can double my solar input to 200w, my max input wattage for the power station.Is that correcct and, is that the way i hook it up.? Also, if i get an extra battery to connect to it for extra hrs of usage because i have to run a small 12v fan or, floor fan, how do i do it.? P.S. What is a gd either flexible, hard or foldable 100w Monocrystaline panel that is the least expensive and have you herd of the paowire 300ah LifePO4 phosfate battery avertised on Temy for $364.00
What a misinformation… u need to be in range with Volts, giving small reserve for opencircut and cold weather ( in cold, panels will perform better, higher temp. Lowers efficiency). But with Amps u can overpanel - so can go more then mppt controller, it will take what it is limited to, not more. So this 12A panel is ok, just will work with station limit of 10A. Very often u need to overpanel for worse weather. (Clouds, etc)
It really doesn't matter because plenty of youtubers have said Goodluck getting warranty if you use 3rd party pannels. These power stations are much like an apple phone. Propriety and they are expensive for the output.
Depends on the use case. For those going after RV rooftop solar panels etc, rigidity and weather-proof is essential. The folding type is usually not suggested to use in poor weather, and can break easily mounted exterior to a vehicle.
I can buy the individual rectangular cells off eBay in packs of 100 for next to nothing. Let's suppose I can get panes of glass for free from a trash heap and transparent epoxy for free. What would the government do if I would make a 1 acre solar farm? They would probably say that I need FCC certification or something. I think each panel needs a shottkey diode, the switches need to be specially designed for DC (likes to arc) and the thickness of the wires needs to match the current. It would be cool to build a solar farm for next to nothing by just going into a landfill and picking up bits and pieces and charge a Tesla or something. There are places where they charge you by the kilo for what you take from the scraping place.
I got the Renogy 200w Solar Panel for the Anker Solix c300! Does anybody know if this is a good combo? I didn't want to pay $299-$499 for the 100w-200w anker panels.
I have one for power outages. If I run a generator to keep my fridge running I would have to run it about 8 hours a day. If I use a power bank like this one it will run my fridge for 11 hours and i can then run my generator to charge it back up in an hour. That means I use a lot less gas and waste a lot less of the energy produced by the generator by storing it in the power bank. Also means my gas stored for the generator would last a lot longer.
As I have the solar panel, it will actually run all day without needing to be charged by generator. I would just need to charge it up every morning as the battery bank will be very low in the morning due to no sun all night.
Anker makes a nice wall charger station. The solar charge controller is a joke that forces people to buy their over priced solar panels. 60 volt limit is ridiculous!
The 60volt aint ridiculous, portable solar panel are ridiculous in term of price or durability while 90% of the time not being the good panel for the intented use. With that 60volt limit on the anker you can pretty much max the input at 500-600w continuous if you parrallel 2 rigid residential solar panel. That way you are at about 42-48volt and stay safe from cold temperature while maxing out the amps through even less than ideal day. It's how people think ''24volt'' panels are a thing and the guy in the video reinforce that by shopping for one while not understanding that the first panel was ''compatible'' despite having higher amps output than the powerstation is rated for. He also misled people in saving money by going off brand. It's going rigid and through local shops that you can save lots of money. He was showing people how a good ''deal 200w rigid panel is for 200$ usd'', this is insane. Residential panel of 300w should cost about 100-125$ max localy. Lots of people do what company tell them to, stay with the brand like a good pet. If you do some research and don't just spend money that's burning through your pocket solar hisnt really expensive. Ecoflow facebook group is full of people with too much money and not enough brain to see they got rob in daylight by buying Ecoflow solar panels. Portable are trash waiting to be put to the curb or to fight the company for replacement when they fail on the 3rd year you use them.
@@RarHm I get your point and agree. I buy my panels separate as well. I think it should be higher. It's not just this model there bigger units have that 60 v limit. It should be higher. It's cheeping out on the controller. I personally like the way pecron does it. They put 2 separate 95v chargers in their units. It gives you options and the ability to charge on a sunny day just as fast as the wall. These things are all dependent on ones individual scenario. I don't fully load my solar chargers unless I have to. I don't believe in pushing the controllers to extremes. Its really nice to have that two 95 volt cushions. Think about that scenario you just stated. Would you rather have 2 95v controllers or one 65v controller on a cloudy day in the winter? I still get mine charged you won't with that anker. That company focuses on charging from the wall. I bought my solar to use my solar.
Incorrect info. I purchased 200W portable solar panel (just like your high-end one) for equivalent of $188.67 USD and they work great with my Bluetti AC180 (21.5V @ 9.8A) MC4 connectors. Brand was a Chinese one: Anfuote Gononki
Because he cut the hamstring of those power station by just plugging small solar panel to it. You need to panel according to the max solar input of said power station to really say you gonna keep the recharge or use the power station through the day. I think he is using the the C1000 and that power station can take up to 600w of solar. Thats easily achieved with 2 residential solar panel of roughly 400-500w(under 50volt) linked in parrallel. With that you could keep the power top up all day long even when its not super sunny and still have enough energy to cook up dinner(not with the big 240v stove, but with 120v little stove/microwave), keep the computer running all day, lights, heating if its cold(with small portable heater), maybe cooling with mini split unit, recharging all your electronics device. Thats what i use my power station for, and thats about all i use the electricity for. Only thing not on my power station is the water heater, fridge and the big electric heater in each room. Often when its sunny in the winter and really cold i unload the surplus of solar energy while im at home by plugging the small heater as when its cold the solar production goes through the roof. My 470w rated panel max out my power station at 510w and i have a reason to believe that if the power station wasnt bloking it there it could go as far as 520-530w. When you overpanel you can really start using solar for a whole bunch of things in your house. Just need to remember to not use extension cord for high power draw device or you gonna burn your house down just as if you use the same extension cord out the wall outlet. As e renter i could only fit 1 panel, i think that if i could put a second one on i would be able to get about 50-80% of my electricity from those 2 panels depending on the time of the year. Solar dosent need to be expensive if you think a little out of the box of what installer/big company tell you it need to be. Spend good money on the power station, save your money on not buying ''their brand panels'' or the one from amazon( which is filled to the brim with scammer ) and buy your panel direct from a warehouse near you according to your need. I mounted mine on my balcony and went above and beyond to make it safe for people that might be close to it. Ex: use pvc tubing to run the wires, using sturdy material to make the mount to hang outside the balcony, identifying cables with ''DC power during daylight'', installing a fast disconnect switch near the panel and accessible to firefighter or handyman that could need to work around the wire or the panel...
It's a portable, the fourth panel was not aligned like the first 3. They are finicky and not durable. They are an expensive toy that wont perform for half its cost and certainly wont last more than 5 years while rigid will outlive you :p
Not really. The panel can be 2000 watts and still work for as long as you never exceed the voltage rating of the mppt in the device. The device can only draw the maximum current. It is unable to “draw” the maximum voltage and will take whatever it is given. Oversizing voltage will destroy the device. Oversizing current will not. Oversizing current helps you achieve the maximum charging wattage much easier than when you matched the panel and mppt wattage.
Beyond the amp issue in your video you also fail to account for the different implementations in those panels. One is meant to be portable, the other stationary hence the price difference
CORRECTION: I emailed Anker and they told me the power station featured in this video can be overpaneled. This means you can connect solar panels that exceed its stated current and wattage limits. So the first 200 watt panel I showed would in fact be compatible. Check out this video to learn more about overpaneling - th-cam.com/video/wu7KV-kAXlA/w-d-xo.html
I see a couple of others have already mentioned it, but your guidance on not exceeding the amperage rating is demonstrating a lack of understanding on how PV input works. In simple terms, "volts are pushed, amps are pulled". You can't control how many volts a panel pushes to a device, but the amps are pulled by the device, so within reason, you can absolutely exceed the amp rating without any issues. Stay under the VoC and you'll be in good shape, but you can safely "over-panel" by exceeding the amp number shows on any power station. That's just a number explaining the max amount it will pull.
Here’s a tip for all of you: JUST PLUG YOUR BATTERY IN AT WORK… no need to spend money on BULKY PANELS 😂
Bring heavy battery and charge for 50 cents. And then bring back home. Monkey business.
@@kakdelauze - Those big, heavy batteries (SLA/AGM) now cost more than lithium iron-phosphate. Why buy something that costs the same or more, weighs twice as much, has half the usable capacity, 1/5th the total life-cycle, and suffers voltage sag as the SOC drops? Stop living in 1950.
WoW! Thank you Jason ,flipzkidn and Tim Gray. I cancelled my solar panels due to misunderstanding the otherwise informative TH-cam clip, and then realised that actually, all was fine when I read the comments! I then contacted Anker who replied back within hours - Great customer service. DO NOT exceed the started Volts 60V.
So you can use panel (s) as long as the VOLTS DO NOT EXCEED the upper Voltage statement on the Solix C1000 label i.e. between 11v-60v .(the Pull from solar panels). The max AMPS the unit can actually take is either between 10A and 12.5A. (The draw). The unit will not accept anymore , and will NOT be damaged.
Here in the UK we have LOTS of total cloud cover so the larger the Watts up to 600w the better. (This 600w is amount the Solix C1000 can process and is the Max for the Solix C1000), Other makes will be different:
However, you could have panel(s) rated in total to be above this - really useful for gathering electricity in cloudy /occluded conditions and a waste of money where the sun shines constantly! The VOLTS is the key differentiator. NEVER plug in a system over the 60V whether it is one panel or multiple panels that total UP to the stated 60v.
@@drinksafewater - You can hook up 1200w of panels, so long as the VoC doesn't exceed 60 volts. Say your PV array is putting out 50 volts; the power station will draw a max of about 12 amps, regardless of how big the array is. Watts are calculated as volts x amps, so 50 volts x 12 amps = 600 watts. Volts are pushed and amps are pulled...don't exceed the VoC and don't worry about the amps/watts.
The info you have given on Amps is incorrect. Volts are pushed and amps are pulled. You can over Amp all day and the power station will never draw more that its requested 10 or 12.5 amp. Its actually a good thing to have more Amps by over paneling. This will help on cloudy days. Over voltage is BAD, do that and you will let the magic smoke out of the box.
Magic smoke lol nice
I was just watching Jehu Garcia plug a 48V rack battery into the solar input on an eco flo delta pro to show that you can charge the delta pro from an external big battery. I have an Anker F2000 [737] and would like to do the same. Are you wizards saying that the Anker F2000 will pull up to its max amperage but no more, regardless of what the 48v rack battery can provide? Will the Anker limit the amps to what it can take in? Manual says the Anker will pull 10 amps at 11-32v and 20amps at 33-60v, so the 48v rack battery is in a sweet spot
I love your videos! Very newbie-friendly.
I’ve seen comments highlighting that you made some errors concerning amps, but please just integrate that knowledge and keep making videos! Your format is still great and not knowing everything is not a problem.
It's surprising how hard it is to find useful information, on any subject. Thank you for this.
omg, thsi video is EXACTLY what I've been looking for as a learning beginner! I'll be rewatching this over and over
Me too!
Dude! This video is outstanding. Having just come through hurricane Helene in Asheville, I'm beefing up my power backup game. I have an Anker power station, but kept wondering if I NEEDED to go with the name brand solar panel. Your video help me make that decision.
Going to save this video. This is very needed information. Thanks dude. My wh is 1476, i think. Haven't got it yet i bought 2-100w, 12 A solar panel and i hope it works. I would have bought 400W, but i didn't have the money.. i hope 200 is enough
Great vlogs.... So thank you 🙏... I have just started my retirement years, and after 30 years, have finally convinced my wife to retire in SW France. I am hoping to start my own project by going as "off-grid" as possible, with perhaps disconnecting from the grid entirely and substituting and additionally needed power by using a Hydrogen generator....(Oh, and during the lovely SW French sun period in the summer, producing my own Green hydrogen).... Keep those videos coming as your "Janet &John" approach makes things clear to dumb-sculls 🤪like me. Well done 👍
Note: the Anker will auto limit the power. I fed mine with 60Amps of solar. the anker self limited to 10A. Here is why you want to out 60A of panels on it. 60 Amps of solar panels gives me 10 Amps of solar power on a cloudy day. I fully charge in 4 hours on an overcast day. Sunny days I'm just wasting any power that is created, smart thing would be to tap off it and charge up 2-3 of the anker batteries at the same time when sunny.
Thanks for the education. A180 Bluetti is arriving soon and was looking for a cheaper solar panel options.
Be sure to read comments above because the video is wrong about amps and watts. You can and should use higher amp and watt panels than the max your power station can draw.
You should also run panels in series so the sum of their open circuit voltage is below the max input of your power station. This will give you more charging on cloudy days because the voltage from the panels will still exceed the minimum voltage required by your power station for allowing charging to start.
That is very easy to understand and helpful [even for a clueless girl but wanna understand and learn solar like me]
Several comments about the amps pulled, but no one mentioned that if you do the math on the solar panel at 4:00, you can put two of those panels in series for 45V at 12.21A, giving you just under 550 Watts maximum power at the input of your Anker.
Great point, that will help a lot on cloudy days because the power station won’t start charging below a minimum voltage.
I purchased two 200W Renology 12v solar panels off of Amazon. They are usually on sale and they are way cheaper than Anker's solar panels, and they usually work better at solar than Anker's panels. They work great with my Anker f3800 power station! Anker's is nicer for portability, but they need to do better with their panels since Renology beats theirs.
I have the Anker solix C1000. Will you be able to send me the link to buy it for my power plant. Thanks
I have the Anker solix C1000. Will you be able to send me the link to buy it for my power plant. Thanks
Just found your channel and I must say I love your videos. Thank you!
Although I have a background on electronics engineering my solar kit knowledge is limited.
Cheers, from Portugal
This was very informative. I’m a beginner and will be starting with 2 lithium batteries but I’m unsure about how many solar panels I need. Can you do a video.
Multiply Ah and voltage of battery it gives u capacity in Wh
100W panel will produce 100wh in an hour, 50wh in 30 min
in reality the 100w will make more like 50w so, True power of a panel is manufactures wattage · 0.5
I say Solar panel power should be 3 or 2 times the capacity So
10Ah 12v cell is 120Wh so panels should be about 250W
(But do your own reasearch too and those are just my recomendations)
You need twice as many as you think you need.
I was kind of sure about the numbers but now you answered my question. Cool dude
Can't the first panel (22V and 12.2A) be put in series with another identical one and actually have 44V 12.2A which is in spec for the higher voltage range and still 400W so under the 600W limit?
Yeah I’ve recently thought why bother getting branded, unless maybe you need folding. It is so easy to make a frame or stand for non-“portable” ones…
You are a super good teacher. What about the cord I would need to buy to attach to the C1000?
Finally found a channel that makes it easy for a solar moron to understand the details. Thanks for this. I have learned and understood more in the last 2 video's than I have in many others. Subscribed and will be watching more.
careful...as others have pointed out, this guy is making beginner mistakes, and he's teaching you to make those mistakes. I am a beginner too, but in reading all of these comments I realize that even as a beginner, I know as much or more than this TH-camr
Except he’s wrong about the amps and watt limit. You actually should get a panel that produces more amps and watts than what your power station can pull to help produce more power on cloudy days. You should go as high as possible with the voltage without ever exceeding. Use the higher open circuit voltage on the panel to ensure you don’t exceed this.
This was extremely helpful and very much appreciated!
4:47 the shorts current on the panel spec is the short circuit current. Not resistance load.
Hey man amazing videos !!! I have a question should I get the Anker c800 or c300 or the eco flow river 2 max I think it is thank you
You should do a test to see how long it would take to charge a Tesla with this type of battery and solar panel setup.
Hey, good video, you explained very well.
You can find 400-watt panels for around $100, too...
How do we know whether the cheaper panels will continue to perform over time, compared to the more expensive models?
Wait for the sales and you can get a bank and panel for pretty cheap.
Thank you. Im new to this. It helps alot. Just liked and subscribed
Are there differences on solar panel connectors? For example, FFM is the same to MC4?
In a grid down situation, would the panels on my home still send power to my outlets? Or is there some device that prioritizes the grid in that situation?
Are you able to run the power outputs while charging? If you had to guess what the threshold was where you still can charge while using , what is that draw?
i see others have mentioned this but your take on the amps is not accurate. number one rule is never over voltage a unit! all of my power stations(i own Bluetti, Jackery,Anker and Oupes) will accept over watts and over amps and the mppt controller is fine with that. Collecting solar is a fluid and dynamic thing and over paneling is common to get good collection with less than ideal conditions.
Great info but It hurt @ 2:20 when you laid the solar panel face down on that concrete.
You need to do some more research how amps work with solar panels.
You need to do some research into elaborating.
That's a useful video!
Begging for help here.. I currently have a brand new Anker solix c1000x. I have one compatible 170w rigid solar panel. Everything I Raa we as says I need a charge controller still if I’m connecting the power station directly to the panel? Is this true? Adapter looks like it just connects right to the panel. This is going to be in a fixed position on my shed roof. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the video. I recently purchased the F2000 that came with 2 SOLIX PS200 Portable Solar Panel (200W).
I want to purchase additional cheaper panels to add to the current array to boost the solar input wattage. From my limited research, I have found that the typical cheaper panel is 100w 12v. How would you configure your circuits?
I was considering having 4 - 100w 12v panels in a series; then adding that series into a parallel with the other anker panels. This would allow each parallel circuits to have similar voltage (48v). Is there any danger is this type of set up?
Hi. We just went through Hurricane Helene. I have no knowledge of this product category. I ordered an Anker C2000 with a 100-watt panel. It seems like I should have gone with a larger panel, but it's already shipped. Can I buy some other panel and use it in conjunction with the Anker panel? If so what cable to I need? Sorry for the beginner question.
Thanks for any input.
Is the connector the same? I bought a solar panel from harbor freight
How nice to have your video. We wait every month for a video, we hope there will be more.. Thank you
That'd be nice if they made solar panels that can mount directly to a solar generator. Just run an extension cord to your TV and computer
I am looking at getting the Renoogy 200w Fordable Solar panel for this. It looks like its 10.5A where is should be 10A. Will this work with these specs?
Max Power at STC: 200 W
Open Circuit Voltage: 23.40V
Short Circuit Current: 10.50A
Optimum Operating Voltage: 20.16V
Optimum Operating Current: 9.92A
I bought the 200-watt Anker solar panel in a bundle deal with the Solix C1000 so panel cost $350 that way. Still, should've done more research first and gone with a cheaper panel. The most input I've been able to get from it is 135 watts on a sunny summer day in PA. That seems very low for it's rating, definately disappointed in the panel's performance, esp for the cost.
Can I charge it with Pulsar 2319N gas genetator? How long to charge assuming 1,000watts?
HOW LONG IT TAKES TO CHARGE? REPLY FAST PLEASE TNX
Excellent presentation 👏
HOBOTECH just did a great video series about how voltage, amperage, and wattage all work. I'd highly recommend watching them and then reposting the video. You can even see his picture by your hand at 4:50 (right when you get wrong how amperage works). After that, I'd also recommend watching some videos on over-paneling (I live in Washington and it's pretty much a necessity).
Can you use an outdoor in the rain. I mean honestly where I live in rain for over a week straight.
I only need a 300 watt unit..do they make a 300 watt version? I would use a 100 maybe 200 watt panel to charge it.
The main advantage of the Anker solar panel is that it is perfectly matched to get the 600-watt maximum the Anker supports. I haven't found any other panels that match as closely.
That's not a bragging thing. They did that on purpose so you would buy there pannels.
@@DBbyDesignworked for me but I only bought one. I tried to buy a second one on sale. but Amazon sent me the wrong panel.
@DBbyDesign Exactly... and I'm still NOT going to buy theirs to go with my F2000. Just too gougy!
Thank you for making this video
Question...
I have a 1200w, 1000wh {999wh} with an input of 200watts of solar Power station. i was told i can get a 12v to 24v converter and attach to my 100w solar panel, then the power bank above, so i can double my solar input to 200w, my max input wattage for the power station.Is that correcct and, is that the way i hook it up.?
Also, if i get an extra battery to connect to it for extra hrs of usage because i have to run a small 12v fan or, floor fan, how do i do it.?
P.S.
What is a gd either flexible, hard or foldable 100w Monocrystaline panel that is the least expensive and have you herd of the paowire 300ah LifePO4 phosfate battery avertised on Temy for $364.00
What a misinformation… u need to be in range with Volts, giving small reserve for opencircut and cold weather ( in cold, panels will perform better, higher temp. Lowers efficiency). But with Amps u can overpanel - so can go more then mppt controller, it will take what it is limited to, not more. So this 12A panel is ok, just will work with station limit of 10A. Very often u need to overpanel for worse weather. (Clouds, etc)
It really doesn't matter because plenty of youtubers have said Goodluck getting warranty if you use 3rd party pannels. These power stations are much like an apple phone. Propriety and they are expensive for the output.
@DBbyDesign Which is why I dropped Apple and switched to Samsung. Don't want to bend the knee to corporate greed and coercion!
Could you recommend a 300 or 400watt panel that is compatible with the c1000?
Is this better than Jackery 1000??
Can I add 2 more of those panels ?
Oh i thought you were paying for the storage and ease of transport with the folding type.
Depends on the use case. For those going after RV rooftop solar panels etc, rigidity and weather-proof is essential. The folding type is usually not suggested to use in poor weather, and can break easily mounted exterior to a vehicle.
are you allowed to take this big power bank on a plane or will you get kicked off?
Can it be charged through car lighter port?
adn cable costs that diference
Do you know Ian Beale?
Great video!!
Great, Thank you
I can buy the individual rectangular cells off eBay in packs of 100 for next to nothing. Let's suppose I can get panes of glass for free from a trash heap and transparent epoxy for free. What would the government do if I would make a 1 acre solar farm? They would probably say that I need FCC certification or something. I think each panel needs a shottkey diode, the switches need to be specially designed for DC (likes to arc) and the thickness of the wires needs to match the current. It would be cool to build a solar farm for next to nothing by just going into a landfill and picking up bits and pieces and charge a Tesla or something. There are places where they charge you by the kilo for what you take from the scraping place.
I got the Renogy 200w Solar Panel for the Anker Solix c300!
Does anybody know if this is a good combo? I didn't want to pay $299-$499 for the 100w-200w anker panels.
Let us know how it turns out!
doesn't overcharges? someone told me to buy mppt first.
Loved it
That was hilarious at the end! "That's how you save hundreds of dollars on your...." Martin would be proud!!!🤣
What exactly does one do with these power stations?
I have one for power outages. If I run a generator to keep my fridge running I would have to run it about 8 hours a day. If I use a power bank like this one it will run my fridge for 11 hours and i can then run my generator to charge it back up in an hour. That means I use a lot less gas and waste a lot less of the energy produced by the generator by storing it in the power bank. Also means my gas stored for the generator would last a lot longer.
As I have the solar panel, it will actually run all day without needing to be charged by generator. I would just need to charge it up every morning as the battery bank will be very low in the morning due to no sun all night.
@@davva360 thanks. Where I live the power rarely goes out, even in winter and through storms, so I guess I’m fortunate there
@@berengerchristy6256 hurricanes are a threat here. Never had significant damage but have lost power for a couple of days
4:18 - Sorry dude, but that solar panel is just fine.
Anker makes a nice wall charger station. The solar charge controller is a joke that forces people to buy their over priced solar panels. 60 volt limit is ridiculous!
The 60volt aint ridiculous, portable solar panel are ridiculous in term of price or durability while 90% of the time not being the good panel for the intented use. With that 60volt limit on the anker you can pretty much max the input at 500-600w continuous if you parrallel 2 rigid residential solar panel. That way you are at about 42-48volt and stay safe from cold temperature while maxing out the amps through even less than ideal day. It's how people think ''24volt'' panels are a thing and the guy in the video reinforce that by shopping for one while not understanding that the first panel was ''compatible'' despite having higher amps output than the powerstation is rated for. He also misled people in saving money by going off brand. It's going rigid and through local shops that you can save lots of money. He was showing people how a good ''deal 200w rigid panel is for 200$ usd'', this is insane. Residential panel of 300w should cost about 100-125$ max localy. Lots of people do what company tell them to, stay with the brand like a good pet. If you do some research and don't just spend money that's burning through your pocket solar hisnt really expensive. Ecoflow facebook group is full of people with too much money and not enough brain to see they got rob in daylight by buying Ecoflow solar panels. Portable are trash waiting to be put to the curb or to fight the company for replacement when they fail on the 3rd year you use them.
@@RarHm I get your point and agree. I buy my panels separate as well. I think it should be higher. It's not just this model there bigger units have that 60 v limit. It should be higher. It's cheeping out on the controller. I personally like the way pecron does it. They put 2 separate 95v chargers in their units. It gives you options and the ability to charge on a sunny day just as fast as the wall. These things are all dependent on ones individual scenario. I don't fully load my solar chargers unless I have to. I don't believe in pushing the controllers to extremes. Its really nice to have that two 95 volt cushions. Think about that scenario you just stated. Would you rather have 2 95v controllers or one 65v controller on a cloudy day in the winter? I still get mine charged you won't with that anker. That company focuses on charging from the wall. I bought my solar to use my solar.
Amazing
Thank u
Incorrect info. I purchased 200W portable solar panel (just like your high-end one) for equivalent of $188.67 USD and they work great with my Bluetti AC180 (21.5V @ 9.8A) MC4 connectors.
Brand was a Chinese one: Anfuote Gononki
Cool..but you can’t power much..
You're right. .you certainly can't power a Tesla😂
Because he cut the hamstring of those power station by just plugging small solar panel to it. You need to panel according to the max solar input of said power station to really say you gonna keep the recharge or use the power station through the day. I think he is using the the C1000 and that power station can take up to 600w of solar. Thats easily achieved with 2 residential solar panel of roughly 400-500w(under 50volt) linked in parrallel. With that you could keep the power top up all day long even when its not super sunny and still have enough energy to cook up dinner(not with the big 240v stove, but with 120v little stove/microwave), keep the computer running all day, lights, heating if its cold(with small portable heater), maybe cooling with mini split unit, recharging all your electronics device. Thats what i use my power station for, and thats about all i use the electricity for. Only thing not on my power station is the water heater, fridge and the big electric heater in each room. Often when its sunny in the winter and really cold i unload the surplus of solar energy while im at home by plugging the small heater as when its cold the solar production goes through the roof. My 470w rated panel max out my power station at 510w and i have a reason to believe that if the power station wasnt bloking it there it could go as far as 520-530w. When you overpanel you can really start using solar for a whole bunch of things in your house. Just need to remember to not use extension cord for high power draw device or you gonna burn your house down just as if you use the same extension cord out the wall outlet. As e renter i could only fit 1 panel, i think that if i could put a second one on i would be able to get about 50-80% of my electricity from those 2 panels depending on the time of the year. Solar dosent need to be expensive if you think a little out of the box of what installer/big company tell you it need to be. Spend good money on the power station, save your money on not buying ''their brand panels'' or the one from amazon( which is filled to the brim with scammer ) and buy your panel direct from a warehouse near you according to your need. I mounted mine on my balcony and went above and beyond to make it safe for people that might be close to it. Ex: use pvc tubing to run the wires, using sturdy material to make the mount to hang outside the balcony, identifying cables with ''DC power during daylight'', installing a fast disconnect switch near the panel and accessible to firefighter or handyman that could need to work around the wire or the panel...
200 watt panel charging at 100 watt that's not good
It's a portable, the fourth panel was not aligned like the first 3. They are finicky and not durable. They are an expensive toy that wont perform for half its cost and certainly wont last more than 5 years while rigid will outlive you :p
Not really. The panel can be 2000 watts and still work for as long as you never exceed the voltage rating of the mppt in the device. The device can only draw the maximum current. It is unable to “draw” the maximum voltage and will take whatever it is given. Oversizing voltage will destroy the device. Oversizing current will not. Oversizing current helps you achieve the maximum charging wattage much easier than when you matched the panel and mppt wattage.
For those who didn't watch until the end, this video was about car insurance not solar panel compatibility. Thank me later
Beyond the amp issue in your video you also fail to account for the different implementations in those panels. One is meant to be portable, the other stationary hence the price difference
I didnt see tips on picking the correct cable adapter...
.
You care to make a video correcting all the issues everyone pointed out?
Car insurance it's a scam