I have watched dozens of videos by now prepping to install a recycled window for a shed, and this video is by far the best I've come across so far - comprehensive, clear, easy to follow and replicate, but without someone going on and on about unrelated things or assuming that all windows come brand new and with modern flashing or perfect measurements. I will save this one to return to again and again as my guide on this. Super well done, thank you!!!!!!
Thanks Sebastian! It’s great you’re using recycled windows I like to do that where possible and retrofit is the way to go. Good luck with your project! Being able to install windows on your own is a good skill.
@Tyler Potter the wall is 2x6 so I ordered the window with extended jambs. They came with the window. When I’m working on a tighter budget l’ll often build my own jambs or extend them on my own.
thank you! damn, this is the Only video i've seen where someone took the time of day to prepare the sill of the rough opening.. i'd want you working on my house
Totally. I replaced 15 or so 40 year old window with Pella's 10 or so years ago; I go on a consumer site where people rate their windows, and the majority of low ratings for Pella and other windows are because of a complete lack of preparatory work for the opening! The manufacturer gives you the installation instructions, the unskilled laborers are not following them! Consumers are incorrectly blaming the window manufacturer and not the installer.
I only noticed flashing installed on the bottom of the window. What is done for the top and sides? I am going to be replacing all the windows in my house using new windows without the nailing flange like you show here. I have gutted the area and will be reframing the window rough opening due to no headers, warping, rotting, splitting, etc. The house is almost 100 years old. The outside has existing vinyl siding with a J channel made with the siding. This J channel wraps around the perimeter of the exterior trim. I will be replacing all exterior trim too.
Thanks for the info & directions..now; what about a window that has no flange not (fin) no casing..How will this work for an approx. 301/2" w by 28" (2 piece) window????..one that opens..van such a window be installed the same as the picture window??
I would install any type of window like this. Same for one your size. Take your time to get it square. You’ll need to make adjustments as you go. Shimming is important to allow your window to open properly. Good luck with your install Paulette! Thanks 🙏🏽
@@TheBucklandgrp Hi Eric, Next time I'm doing an exterior I'll do an update on exterior siding, flashing and drip mold. I hear you. I did this video when I was starting out and didn't own a camera. I have one now and can show more stages of the work.
Windows need shims to be installed correctly and according to your manufacturer’s recommendation. Windows are heavy and spray foam will not hold them in place.
Thanks for the helpful video! What did you end up doing with the gap between the bottom of the windowframe and the rough opening? I'm trying to figure out how to deal with that during an install I'm working on. Does that section stay open, do you apply sealant, or do you put something in the void to fill it so there's not a gap underneath the vinyl siding on the outside?
Thanks for watching Brian. In the void, I used spray foam insulation and on the outside I covered the opening with trim and ran the siding up to meet the trim. On the upper part of the window trim I like to use a drip mold to divert water away from the window. I would also caulk around the trim as needed.
@@alexhatcher8812 I appreciate the support of viewers of my channel. And I try to help whenever possible. There’s a lot of good hardworking people out there.
Hi Gabriella, I installed new siding so we were able to do all new drip mold and trim. If the siding is retrofit I would slip the flashing under the last course of siding or cut back the siding where needed so that you can properly secure it to your sheathing. Hope that helps!
@@DaruDhillon why are you directing water back behind the siding? using a waterproofing membrane on the sheathing makes sense, but to flash water behind the siding is counterproductive to getting water out of the wall system.
Thanks for watching! -->>Please subscribe + hit the bell notification for my next video! Watch Next: How To Measure For Replacement Windows | 3 Mistakes To Avoid th-cam.com/video/NE98ZPSyDK0/w-d-xo.html
@@realduck1 I had the whole wall siding replaced. I'll have to make a video on window trim. I'm sure there are some great ones on TH-cam depending on what the exterior of your home is.
Unfortunately you have installed improper adhesive membrane. You need to use flexwrap so that you don't cut the corners and create a place for water to leak.
FlexWrap or SureSill type products are a good option for waterproofing. Not everyone will be spending the extra $200 per window but definitely a good option!
Close, but not fully accurate. If you have a 1/2" shim on the left and 3/4" on the right, then using a 1/2" in the middle means you will bow the bottom of the window frame when you screw it down. Middle shim should be 5/8". Otherwise thanks for the vid.
Hi Daniel, thanks for your comment and taking time to watch my video. I installed fibreglass windows so they are a lot stronger than vinyl and don't bow if they are properly installed. I checked everything before the final screw and did all the finish carpentry myself and it is installed square. I do respect the fact that everyone has a different point of view. All the best!
That's assuming that the frame is perfectly straight so that 5/8" is in between 1/2" and 3/4". Sometimes the frame is straight 70% of its length and it abruptly changes its slope for the remaining 30%. I think the best friend is a straight level lol.
I have watched dozens of videos by now prepping to install a recycled window for a shed, and this video is by far the best I've come across so far - comprehensive, clear, easy to follow and replicate, but without someone going on and on about unrelated things or assuming that all windows come brand new and with modern flashing or perfect measurements. I will save this one to return to again and again as my guide on this. Super well done, thank you!!!!!!
Thanks Sebastian! It’s great you’re using recycled windows I like to do that where possible and retrofit is the way to go. Good luck with your project! Being able to install windows on your own is a good skill.
@Tyler Potter the wall is 2x6 so I ordered the window with extended jambs. They came with the window. When I’m working on a tighter budget l’ll often build my own jambs or extend them on my own.
thank you! damn, this is the Only video i've seen where someone took the time of day to prepare the sill of the rough opening.. i'd want you working on my house
Totally. I replaced 15 or so 40 year old window with Pella's 10 or so years ago; I go on a consumer site where people rate their windows, and the majority of low ratings for Pella and other windows are because of a complete lack of preparatory work for the opening! The manufacturer gives you the installation instructions, the unskilled laborers are not following them! Consumers are incorrectly blaming the window manufacturer and not the installer.
Funny I was displeased by it. I think you should have someone speak that knows more but I know a pretty face gets it done lol
I only noticed flashing installed on the bottom of the window. What is done for the top and sides? I am going to be replacing all the windows in my house using new windows without the nailing flange like you show here. I have gutted the area and will be reframing the window rough opening due to no headers, warping, rotting, splitting, etc. The house is almost 100 years old. The outside has existing vinyl siding with a J channel made with the siding. This J channel wraps around the perimeter of the exterior trim. I will be replacing all exterior trim too.
I was wondering how the bejeezus one installed a non-opening window; first thing I found that makes sense of it, thanks. :)
@@sirensynapse5603 Thanks! I have another recent one that can help you out. th-cam.com/video/KIvSDaR9EVg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=f4ej8X0CmVKiCJ06
Thank you for the video. It has helped me out a lot.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the info & directions..now; what about a window that has no flange not (fin) no casing..How will this work for an approx. 301/2" w by 28" (2 piece) window????..one that opens..van such a window be installed the same as the picture window??
I would install any type of window like this. Same for one your size. Take your time to get it square. You’ll need to make adjustments as you go. Shimming is important to allow your window to open properly. Good luck with your install Paulette! Thanks 🙏🏽
Always helpful and great tips! ❤️
Thanks so much for your support! 💕
It’s caulk dependent till you remove your siding and flash it correctly
Yes! Flashing is essential. We installed new siding and flashing before wrapping up the renovation.
Right, I like their videos but you do a video on installation "without a nail flange" but then show no water proofing.
@@TheBucklandgrp Hi Eric, Next time I'm doing an exterior I'll do an update on exterior siding, flashing and drip mold. I hear you. I did this video when I was starting out and didn't own a camera. I have one now and can show more stages of the work.
Is this install the same for a vinyl inside n out with no flange fixed window?
I would install like this for any retrofit or no flange window installation. Fixed, opening, double-hung etc. I’m doing windows today too. Good luck!
Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.
Windows need shims to be installed correctly and according to your manufacturer’s recommendation. Windows are heavy and spray foam will not hold them in place.
@@DaruDhillon thank you for answering. I’m putting the screws back on once the gaps are filled.
Happy to help. Shim, screw and foam. Good luck with your installation!
Did you have to do anything on the top of the window where the siding meets the plywood ?
I tucked the waterproofing membrane up behind the siding where possible, installed a drip molding above the window, then caulking, trim and siding.
Great video! Quick question, did you end up caulking around the J Channel on the sides and the top?
what a great find, sign me up... I did not see how to measure for window the right way.
Thanks! I appreciate your comments. I have more window videos coming up based on your feedback. 👍🏽
I broke my window just so I could utilize this new knowledge.
You got me laughing!!!
3:35 did she say level makes a girl happy lol
That’s a first .
Not only you are pretty
And you got talent. Job well done lady
Thanks Rafael, I work in old houses. Nothing is level or plump. I celebrate the little things.
What happens if you push on the window, will it fall out?
It will fall out if it’s not screwed into your frame. Once secured to your rough opening it won’t move on you.
Thanks for the helpful video! What did you end up doing with the gap between the bottom of the windowframe and the rough opening? I'm trying to figure out how to deal with that during an install I'm working on. Does that section stay open, do you apply sealant, or do you put something in the void to fill it so there's not a gap underneath the vinyl siding on the outside?
Thanks for watching Brian. In the void, I used spray foam insulation and on the outside I covered the opening with trim and ran the siding up to meet the trim. On the upper part of the window trim I like to use a drip mold to divert water away from the window. I would also caulk around the trim as needed.
@@DaruDhillon the fact you come back after 3 years to answer this is impressive!
@@alexhatcher8812 I appreciate the support of viewers of my channel. And I try to help whenever possible. There’s a lot of good hardworking people out there.
How do you flash this window?
Hi Gabriella, I installed new siding so we were able to do all new drip mold and trim. If the siding is retrofit I would slip the flashing under the last course of siding or cut back the siding where needed so that you can properly secure it to your sheathing. Hope that helps!
@@DaruDhillon why are you directing water back behind the siding? using a waterproofing membrane on the sheathing makes sense, but to flash water behind the siding is counterproductive to getting water out of the wall system.
Thanks for watching! -->>Please subscribe + hit the bell notification for my next video!
Watch Next: How To Measure For Replacement Windows | 3 Mistakes To Avoid th-cam.com/video/NE98ZPSyDK0/w-d-xo.html
How did you put the exterior window trim on
@@realduck1 I had the whole wall siding replaced. I'll have to make a video on window trim. I'm sure there are some great ones on TH-cam depending on what the exterior of your home is.
Unfortunately you have installed improper adhesive membrane. You need to use flexwrap so that you don't cut the corners and create a place for water to leak.
FlexWrap or SureSill type products are a good option for waterproofing. Not everyone will be spending the extra $200 per window but definitely a good option!
@@DaruDhillon It doesn't cost $200 per window. A 75' roll of flexwrap is $233, which is enough to do at least 10 average sized windows.
@@Necro-the-Pyro I’m in Toronto, who’s your supplier?
@T.J. Lavelle Weird. I checked your channel for the proper way to install a window but couldn't find one.
@@meikoblock not sure what your point is...
screwing through the sill pan ???ok maybe because its butyl flashing but still.
I'm following the installation guide for this window manufacturer. It's always best if you follow yours. Cheers!
This video doesn’t show anything about how the outside got waterproofed against windy rainy days. Where is the water shed?
7 years ago? omg so sorry am just seeing this now.
Glad you found it Jerry!
0:54 all the good woman are taken🙃
omg.. is she from CANADIA?
Yes, I am. You guessed it!
Close, but not fully accurate. If you have a 1/2" shim on the left and 3/4" on the right, then using a 1/2" in the middle means you will bow the bottom of the window frame when you screw it down. Middle shim should be 5/8". Otherwise thanks for the vid.
Hi Daniel, thanks for your comment and taking time to watch my video. I installed fibreglass windows so they are a lot stronger than vinyl and don't bow if they are properly installed. I checked everything before the final screw and did all the finish carpentry myself and it is installed square. I do respect the fact that everyone has a different point of view. All the best!
those shims were to create level where the window jamb would meet 3 contact points in a perfectly straight line. . .
That's assuming that the frame is perfectly straight so that 5/8" is in between 1/2" and 3/4". Sometimes the frame is straight 70% of its length and it abruptly changes its slope for the remaining 30%. I think the best friend is a straight level lol.
U r very beautiful!!!