Maybe test at slower fan speeds? A good number of people run their fans slow for ambient noise reasons. I'm curious if the reduced fan speeds would make a difference in the two setups.
I just did this. You can have same temps with lower noise. They dont need to work as hard to cool. I allergic to noise or any sound at all. My 5800x held 78c on cinebench with 800-1000 rpm but after push/pull its still 78c but with 400-600 rpm Edit: Arctic freezer II 280mm
I had my 13700k hit 95-100c on cinebench with the msi coreliquid 240 v2 to cool it but it just wouldnt get any cooler. I then had some high pressure static fans from corsair that i decided to add to push pull and i got a 15~20c decrease in temps.
@@TheAsteriskMark Corsair AF120 and my case is the lianli o11 evo mini. There is a slight noise increase but its by like maybe 1 or 2 decibels. Im pretty sure i got a performance increase since this msi aio is shit
@@chrishehexdThe AF120 are not high static pressure fans, AF fans are for airflow and the SP120 on the other hand are static pressure! But the AF120 could very well be much better than the original fans nonetheless
What are the fans you installed for radiator? Cause there's a difference between flow fans and pressure fans. Static pressure fans are the ones used by coolers while air flow fans are the ones used for cases.
What kind of case do you use? I was thinking about doing the same push pull configuration on a phanteks p600s and im wondering if there will be any problem mounting the tubes up. Enlighten me plz
@@EvLTimE That's pretty nice!! The p500a is actually very similar to mine! Did you come with any bumbling noise or malfunction with the tubes up? Also do you think by putting the af2 push pull as intake on the p500a made the looks of the case be too cramped up? Thank you for response!
Why would out the top vs the front matter??? And what case do you have that accepts a 420mm in the front ??? One of the 3 ? A fractal torrent? In front? "The radiators can then be up to 403 mm long. When mounting a radiator longer than 380 mm, you have, in combination with standard 25 mm thick fans, a maximum radiator thickness of 44 mm.Feb 9, 2022" You full of shit????
@@96kylar yeah its torrent with some cut offs of bottom bracket which allow to use 420 arctic with no issues. There are a lot of versions of this mod. All fans are arctic p14
Push-pull configuration makes sense for the intake only. And for a decent -to-good fan/s rotation speed. For exhaust combined with low noise rotation makes no sense for performance. That’s because when used as Intake and at high rotation the “pull” row of fans will blow fresh air into the case ( the air has no time to get hot ) over all other components ( motherboard ) simply said : push-pull = intake = noise = performance
Don't these results show that neither cooling solution was capable of taming this CPU? If you tested on a CPU which did not generate so much heat the results may have been different thus indicating having push pull could have some benefits.
Push-pull does little to nothing in pretty much every case. I mean, what do you expect? That more fans suddenly move more air through the heatsink, despite running the same rpm‘s? It only affects the smoothness of the air flow, that’s it.
@@Lukashoffmann94 It double the head pressure against the resistance of the radiator. Other channels show 2-3 C improvement. Not bad if you have fans laying around.
@@Lukashoffmann94 yo, I watched several of these videos where they claim that push+pull is close to negligible vs either push or pull. I have just painstakingly installed a push+pull on a 3x120mm with 30mm of thickness, as exhaust. The difference has been very significant, a 10C reduction in temperature. I was using the radiator to cool down a 3090, which with just Push had a 96C memory junction. After 1 hour of running the same wattage at the same ambient temperature of 25c, now it's 86C.
I just flipped the 3 fans to the otherside of the rad so its pulling in cold air from the front of the PC and 3 top mounted 120mm fans exhausting the hot air out and 1 120mm fan in the rear exhausting hot air out as well using MX-6 and the rev 4 offset brackets worked way better than the config you have temp dropped dramatically never went over 60c in anything granted my house has an AC set to 69f 24/7 which helps but this is the best config I did it your way and it topped out at 77c idk why Arctic positioned the fans like that.
So switching the fans on this cooler isn't going to cause any issues? It's really all I need to do. But I can load three more fans pulling air in so it's an intake bringing in the coolest air in the room.
I just built a new rig with an i7-13700k and an RTX 4080. Quite the upgrade over my old i5-4690k and GTX 970. Anyways, what exactly does it mean to have a push-pull configuration? My Lian Li 216 case came with 2 front mounted fans that are sucking air into the case. I then installed the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360. I plugged the pump fan into the CPU_FAN, so it should be blowing at full speed all the time. I have the 3 fans on the radiator installed on top of my case and they are sucking air out of the case. The case also came with 1 fan on the back of the computer that is sucking air out of the back of the case. Is that how I should have it set up? Seems like it cuz otherwise if the top fans were pulling air into the case, it seems like that would just make the air inside the case bounce around instead of cold air being pulled in the front of the case and warm air being ejected out of the top and back of the case.
Hey, you could help me a ton by letting me know your temps I too have a 13700k and im trying to decide between the 360 and 420, do you ever thermal throttle? What are your temps at higher wattages or on cinebench.
@@bbdedeoglu Not sure the maximum, never really tried to OC it or anything. But I've seen it hit 300 watts in HWInfo when running OCCT or Prime95 torture test.
@@alexangell903 Well, I'm sure it thermal throttled at stock while running Prime95 torture test or OCCT Small Data Set AVX2 stress tests. Temps would hit 100C. But I have had it underclocked for months now. I had it underclocked by -.100mV and it was totally fine running games and temps would never reach above like 75-80C. I think I got a random BSOD once in like 3 months. But since then, I have ran OCCT Small Data Set AVX2 and Prime95 Small torture stress tests and figured out that I'm really only truly stable at around -.045mV undervolt. So that's what I have it at now and my temps never really go above 90C during stress testing or 70C while gaming.
I wonder what the temp difference is of the coolant on push pull config vs push or pull I have a Corsair aio and the coolant temp can get to 35 F I did not see a temp difference in pump speeds between performance or balanced so I kept it at balanced (2500 rpm). My CPU is a Ryzen 7 7700x
The inside side of the rad have the fans mounted to pull air. The outside side of the rad sandwich the case with his fans that push air so it would look something like this. If pc face right : Fans-Rad-FrontCasePlate-Fans
You need to bring your coolant temp back down between tests. It feels like it takes forever, but not doing so can skew your data favoring earlier tests.
Hello I had some questions pertaining to your test and about Arctic coolers I would really appreciate your response. So first off for your testing what paste did you use and did you use something like a thermalright1700 bracket that is known to drop temps? I'm just wondering if it would be under 90c with a bracket or if you used them in this test. I don't care much for the push-pull just 13700k and 360 results. Secondly and my mainly, I am wondering with the Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360 vs 420 for high end CPU's like 13700k and 13900k that can pull 250w-300w and over if the 420 works start to show a significant performance increase and temp drop compared to the 360 cooler, there isn't much info on this and I have searched extensively. Gamer Nexus test only up tp 200w and the general consensus is at the 360 and 420 only show a marginal temp difference, however I wonder if at higher wattages the 420 might shine.
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I have the same AIO only 420mm and with R23 with i9 13900K I also have 95-100C. Forza 5 games, Assassins running 55-70C max. Only BF 2042 runs around 80C because it consumes up to 255W. I saw a max of 368W with the R23.
Hey dude, I am using my 13700k with my Arctic 360mm and z690 motherboard, but I was able to reach a maximum of 263 watts. I have never seen 300 watts. What kind of setting do I need to do for this?
With a push-pull setup using the 360mm Arctic in a Corsair 4000D case at 26c+ ambient room temperature (I don't have an ac running all the time) I get 45c-55c idle and intense gaming with fan rpm speeds kept at or around 800-1000rpm. At or around 23c room temperature (with ac on) I get 32-55c idle and intense gaming. It does amazingly with my undervolted amd 9 5900x which is known to idle at around 55c. Overclocked however I get idle and gaming temps at 65c+ all the time.
Hello, I have the same 4000d cabinet, but I have the aio on the front since it is a 340mm, could you help me? Do you recommend pushing or extracting air? I cannot do push and pull since I have to purchase the missing refrigerators.
I've always installed my rads in a front-mounted push/pull setup. The benefits here are that the fans on the front are not only drawing in cool air for the radiator but the fans on the back are ensuring that that cool air is also making it to the GPU. I've seen differences in GPU temps of up to 10C while using this configuration.
I run 6 bequiet silent wings pro 4 fans running push/pull config on an Asus rog ryujin iii 360 aio cooler with TR contact frame and TG kryonaut extreme on my 13900ks. Cools it fine but does thermal throttle when power limits are removed.
How did you do this? did you have to buy extra screws for the other 3 fans or did the screws come with fans or the cooler? Thanks been looking for an answer for this I’m trying to get this aio ASAP
You can see what comes with the cooler on their site. Most likely the screws are M3x30 if its not listedn so you cam buy online. You can also just use 2 screws on each fan.
You have to get the screws separately and be sure to get proper length screws. Take into account the thickness of the fans and radiator plus the case bracket. Too long screws will end up hitting the radiator fins.
From what I understand: If CPU-temps are a priority, you should mount your rad as an intake with the fans sitting on the inside and sucking outside air in through the radiator. Personally, I have mine set up as a front-intake but with the fans towards/on the outside, blowing fresh air in and through the rad. Gotta see those RGB-fans through the front mesh, after all. Temps on my non-UVed 14700KF are pretty great like that, but I haven't tried the "suck" method, so I can't compare. I'm actually a bit annoyed at the fact that they now pre-install the fans at the factory. From what I can tell, all manufacturers do this in a manner that supports an exhaust installation, meaning the fans are on the inner side of the radiator (the side to which the hoses connect), set up to push air through. My case only supports a 360 in the front (top max is 280), so even if I had wanted to mount the AiO as a top exhaust, I couldn't have. Meaning I had to take off all the fans and since the fans on my Lian Li Trinity (standard) are daisy-chained with semi-internal leads that are very short, it all felt a bit like a Three Stooges routine. I could've undone the internal connections between the fans but that would've also been a bit fiddly (the instructions in the manual don't make it look like an easy operation). So mounting everything meant on one side of the front of the case I was juggling around three 120mm fans that are all wired to each other, while trying to hold the radiator in place on the inside of the front-panel and trying to get all the screw-holes to line up. Basically: Trying to mount this thing with the fans on the outside and rad on the inside of the case's mounting rails is a bit of a nightmare. And I don't think I could've mounted one fan after the other and then do the daisy-chaining after, because once mounted, you can't access any of the fans' internal wiring. Added bonus: The daisy-chain connections on the fans can only run on one side of the fans which means that in my scenario, they either run on the rear panel/motherboard-side but then have to exit towards the bottom of the rad - or, if I had re-connected them all, they would've run on the glass-panel side and would've exited the fan-stack at the top. Both of which aren't ideal for cable-managing the PWM/RGB connections and getting to the CPU/FAN headers.
I'm over here searching for if my aio broke getting 93c at stock on cinebench. Thinking my setup has a prob. So these temps are normal with a freezer ii 360 with the 3 stock fans?
@@mchwmedia Found out its common for the 13700k on cine, gaming and anything else it was cool. Was worried cause I just built it at the time and was looking for reasons.
@@Superb_Legend if you still have issues with temps you can maybe try to undervolt. Reduces temps massively and isn't too hard to do if you follow the right steps
I just did this. You can have same temps with lower noise. They dont need to work as hard to cool. I allergic to noise or any sound at all. My 5800x held 78c on cinebench with 800-1000 rpm but after push/pull its still 78c but with 400-600 rpm Edit: Arctic freezer II 280 mm
PWM splitter, the P12 PWM only need 0,1A to work and the standard PWM header usually manages up to 1A Although I personally would put the extra 3 on the CPU Opt header that most of the modern mobo have, since the arctic freezer runs the pump and vrm fan chained to the main fans
Hi everyone, I already have the 240mm version but I have a Lian li o11d mini with atx configuration so I cannot go with 360mm aio... Would you think the 240mm version hold the future i7 13700k? Shall I upgrade to 280mm maybe? Thx
You can definitely use a 360 on it. If atx motherboard, you need their offset brackets. You can also buy some 3d printed ones online. If smaller motherboard, you can just drop the motherboard tray down and it should clear the mobo at ram easily.
For me a full custom waterloop is the future, An AIO is just the go in between step when your still unsure about watercooling, but want something more than standard air cooled. I have an Lian Li 011d XL, plenty of room for big radiators, but i decided to replace my AIO with an External Mo-Ra3 420 pro, go look that up. might be a better solution for Small Form Factor builds.
did you ever reseat the cooler?, it's odd that you're thermal throttling with a 360 phat boy radiator in the first place, maybe synthetics hit harder than I'd imagine but still seems weird.
You should also monitor current clock speed if your not running static OC why?? sometimes due to better cooling boost clock will increase while maintaining same temp as a result this confuse people thinking that there is no benefit at plus the real benefit is having a dead silent system running super slow RPM fam due to push + pull config
do you think these arctic liquid freezers are the most reliable AIOs with how well they seem to be built? and would you recommend someone to replace a freezer 34 with one of these if they’re rocking an 8 core or higher CPU?
I highly recommend them. Great performance, not too loud, and they aren't as overly expensive as some of the other units on the market. Plus I can vouch for Arctic's customer service they're excellent.
@@DannyzReviews i already have a freezer 34, and while it is amazing, it may feel like an upgrade would do me way more for the future if i want a jump in performance. thank you for your amazing content btw!
@@fandomkiller i’m aware of that, they recalled before needing to be called out like some others (*cough cough* msi AIOs with all their issues). i’m convinced they have one of the best AIOs if not the best. they seem to be more durable
What if you decided to measure the coolant temp instead of the cpu temp? The fans are not actively cooling the Cpu and its temperature, rather they are cooling the coolant in the radiator. I'd love to see and analise the measurements on the liquid coolant and i dont see a point in measuring the cpu temperature in different benchmarks as the fans cool the radiator liquid. I think you missed the point of the video at some point.
Probably not a good idea to have fans that close to eachother. Having fans standoff a few mm from eachother with washers and a longer M3x40 screw and then sealing the gap between the fans with paper or electical tape would give about the same.
i would have liked to see the cinebench score and the fps from tomb raider, intel said at one point, that their CPU is made to aim for that heat limit, so in many cases the temp would probably be very close, but you might see it clock higher and give a better score. its not all about bad CPU design, they have purposely made it, so it will try and hit its temp limit no matter what, by pulling as much power/mhz it can, sure at some point you might see it struggle to hit that limit, but that will req some pretty sick cooling, like some other youtubers have shown, like with the EK direct die cpu block, but that req delidding, and ofc not many wanna go through that :)
Pretty sure he said the CPU was overclocked to 5.5 GHz all-core. It's either normally 5.1 or 5.2 GHz all-core stock therefore the auto-boosting-based-on-temperature you're referring to is irrelevant as his CPU will "boost" to 5.5 GHz, on all cores, simultaneously, all the time (assuming they're loaded), regardless of temp. Having said that, - you're correct - in stock configuration or if overclocked in a different way (still using Intel's boost algorithms) then better cooling can allow for improved clocks & therefore improved performance while not necessarily resulting in lower temps due to the improved cooling allowing for higher clocks/performance.
Depends on the what kind of performance target you're after. But a build like that would be powerful enough for even high-refresh gaming at 4K. 1440P would be no sweat either and for 1080P it would be extremely overkill.
The fans that come with the cooler are designed for static pressure, not airflow. To get a genuine test, the rear 3 fans should be fans designed for airflow.
Hello, I hope someone answers me please. I have the aio in the front because of space reasons it doesn't fit on top. What is recommended? draw cold air from outside or push it from inside. I'm currently pushing from the inside and I notice that my GPU is getting hotter.
Ai use Arctic LF III 420 ,in my opinion the problem wath Arctic AIO have is the pump, the pump have to low rotations.If they have a pump with 3500 rpm they have 100% better performance with 5 degree
push pull is never really the way to go tbh. It adds far more wires to mange ( depending on fans of course ) and is usually no better than just standard push or pull.
Push pull can generally be quite effective at the high end of OCs. It doesn't do much for instantaneous temps but it can help to keep the liquid temp itself a bit cooler. Generally 1-3 degrees.
@@OscyJack- First of all, you don't buy AIO for that. You get a custom loop with more water, at least 420 rad, stronger pump, and much better cpu head (water block)
@@Ludak021 arguably more necessary on an aio, as it needs the most help keeping liquid temps down as it is less efficient. That said, custom isn't much superior in instant cooking, just sustained. It's all air cooling anyway
Turn off thermal velocity boost tbv enhanced, name can slightly vary depending on the motherboard. 13900k allcore oc with a fixed vcore at 5.6 and pcore at 45 using the same cooler nut the 420 rad my temps are in the 70s. And I'm assuming you did go into the bios and optimize some settings at least. So over this. 12th gen "I can't keep it cool" "it runs so hot" blah blah etc. Nope 12gen same as seat cpu correctly with the 12/13 gen contact a decent 360 (you dont need to have aut cpu direct die coolong witha chiller openl loop to oc 13th gen or keepnit cool) manually tune bios oc and ditch the garbage power save settings and turn off the settings that instructions send it to maintenance clocks as high for ad long and as close to tj max so if it senses head room its going to utilize as much as it can tbv is design to do this but turn this off and it wont throttle
Strange, my LFII 360 came with pull configuration (behind the rad, pulling cool air from the outside through the rad, instead of pulling hot air from the inside of the case). Then again, mine isn't ARGB, so that my be the reason why they changed it for ARGB, so you can see the rgb vomit better. PS. it was ~98e euro when I bought it. That's cheaper than Noctua NH-S12 or thereabouts. LFII 360 a-rgb was ~125eur, and it has about ~1C worse performance than non argb variant. Probably because it's pulling hot air from the case, but you get the rgb vomit that you like.
bIGGER rad is more important than fans . A car has only one sometime 2 fans max and its more than enough , The size of the rad and material is the most important.
Any configuration that included "pushing" air through the radiator is a bad idea. Unless your computer is in a 'clean room' it will build up dust and debris on the side of the rad that the air is flowing in to. If you pull fresh air into the rad any build up is a simple wipe on the outside to restore efficiency. If you push air through the rad, you will need to remove all the fans to clean and restore efficiency to the system. And with most systems, this also requires you to remove the rad from the system.
@@Michael-hb8nq Expelling air creates negative pressure, causing air to enter the PC through any available opening, including unfiltered ones, leading to dust accumulation. Conversely, drawing air in through the front with a radiator means it passes through a filter, reducing dust buildup and only requiring periodic filter cleaning.
you added cheap fans.. so there is no point to have better cooling solution those fans are chepeast and goes nowhere, i gave those fans for free... to someone that i do not know him.. Those fans are worst. When i added better fan there is huge difference. It is not only CFM it is important how much pressure can hold at rpm.. So better fans have better pressure. Bad movie presentation.
they are not bad fans 😂 They’re some of the best budget fans obviously they aren’t Lian li infinities or LL120 or noctua fans but they are still good budget fans
I have a 13700k on a Taichi z790 with an Artic Liquid Freezer II 420mm in Push pull and still hit 100'c on the cpu doing R23 (ambient temps are 24'c) Fractal Torrent case (my cpu refuses to undervolt, even -.10v will crash R23). Not only that I have 7200mhz CL34 32GB and it'll never boot, have to drop all the way down to 6600mhz with tigher timmings, this round of cpu/mobo totally suck :(. Wish i didnt upgrade from my 10700k @5.3ghz all cores with 32gb 3600mhz DDR4, never broke a sweat and was stable af. 🥲
I'm using the Arctic 420mm in a push-pull config at the top of my 7000D Airflow full tower. Makes my 4090 look tiny in comparison lol.
Maybe test at slower fan speeds? A good number of people run their fans slow for ambient noise reasons. I'm curious if the reduced fan speeds would make a difference in the two setups.
I just did this. You can have same temps with lower noise. They dont need to work as hard to cool. I allergic to noise or any sound at all.
My 5800x held 78c on cinebench with 800-1000 rpm but after push/pull its still 78c but with 400-600 rpm
Edit: Arctic freezer II 280mm
@@fjalls Thanks for this. I've been searching for this for a while now.
@@griffin1366 good luck
I had my 13700k hit 95-100c on cinebench with the msi coreliquid 240 v2 to cool it but it just wouldnt get any cooler. I then had some high pressure static fans from corsair that i decided to add to push pull and i got a 15~20c decrease in temps.
Do you mind telling the name of the fans you added, as well as the case you are using? Did it add a noticeable noise?
@@TheAsteriskMark Corsair AF120 and my case is the lianli o11 evo mini. There is a slight noise increase but its by like maybe 1 or 2 decibels. Im pretty sure i got a performance increase since this msi aio is shit
@@chrishehexdThe AF120 are not high static pressure fans, AF fans are for airflow and the SP120 on the other hand are static pressure! But the AF120 could very well be much better than the original fans nonetheless
What are the fans you installed for radiator? Cause there's a difference between flow fans and pressure fans. Static pressure fans are the ones used by coolers while air flow fans are the ones used for cases.
He literally said what Fans he used
If you have a small form factor build, the fan configuration will in many cases matter greatly.
Push pull will have more benefit in front of case to help with pushing some air into case. I use af2 420 in front and it works really good
What kind of case do you use? I was thinking about doing the same push pull configuration on a phanteks p600s and im wondering if there will be any problem mounting the tubes up. Enlighten me plz
@@metaplita5771 now I am using fractal torrent and previously was phanteks p500a. Both push pull with 420 tubes up
@@EvLTimE That's pretty nice!! The p500a is actually very similar to mine! Did you come with any bumbling noise or malfunction with the tubes up? Also do you think by putting the af2 push pull as intake on the p500a made the looks of the case be too cramped up? Thank you for response!
Why would out the top vs the front matter??? And what case do you have that accepts a 420mm in the front ??? One of the 3 ? A fractal torrent? In front?
"The radiators can then be up to 403 mm long. When mounting a radiator longer than 380 mm, you have, in combination with standard 25 mm thick fans, a maximum radiator thickness of 44 mm.Feb 9, 2022"
You full of shit????
@@96kylar yeah its torrent with some cut offs of bottom bracket which allow to use 420 arctic with no issues. There are a lot of versions of this mod. All fans are arctic p14
Push-pull configuration makes sense for the intake only. And for a decent -to-good fan/s rotation speed. For exhaust combined with low noise rotation makes no sense for performance. That’s because when used as Intake and at high rotation the “pull” row of fans will blow fresh air into the case ( the air has no time to get hot ) over all other components ( motherboard ) simply said : push-pull = intake = noise = performance
Great video by the way! Very informative and straight to the point
Don't these results show that neither cooling solution was capable of taming this CPU? If you tested on a CPU which did not generate so much heat the results may have been different thus indicating having push pull could have some benefits.
Push-pull does little to nothing in pretty much every case.
I mean, what do you expect? That more fans suddenly move more air through the heatsink, despite running the same rpm‘s?
It only affects the smoothness of the air flow, that’s it.
@@Lukashoffmann94 It double the head pressure against the resistance of the radiator. Other channels show 2-3 C improvement. Not bad if you have fans laying around.
@@Lukashoffmann94 Bullshit
@@Lukashoffmann94 yo, I watched several of these videos where they claim that push+pull is close to negligible vs either push or pull. I have just painstakingly installed a push+pull on a 3x120mm with 30mm of thickness, as exhaust. The difference has been very significant, a 10C reduction in temperature.
I was using the radiator to cool down a 3090, which with just Push had a 96C memory junction. After 1 hour of running the same wattage at the same ambient temperature of 25c, now it's 86C.
I just flipped the 3 fans to the otherside of the rad so its pulling in cold air from the front of the PC and 3 top mounted 120mm fans exhausting the hot air out and 1 120mm fan in the rear exhausting hot air out as well using MX-6 and the rev 4 offset brackets worked way better than the config you have temp dropped dramatically never went over 60c in anything granted my house has an AC set to 69f 24/7 which helps but this is the best config I did it your way and it topped out at 77c idk why Arctic positioned the fans like that.
this way you are limiting the airflow for your gpu, probably should try side mount pull + 3x front intake + 3xTop/1Rear exhaust
So switching the fans on this cooler isn't going to cause any issues? It's really all I need to do. But I can load three more fans pulling air in so it's an intake bringing in the coolest air in the room.
Thank you for doing this video
Was looking at whether push pull was worth it for this aio that I have. Thanks for the answer!
Odd. I have a 360mm on my o11 evo as an intake with a push pull method and I did see a 4c difference with lower fan speeds.
I have O11 Dynamic Evo, how did you attached the other 3 fans as pull? the screws are not long enought for me lol
Your vcore is at 1.29v under full load at 55p/45e/49r in cb23?
I just built a new rig with an i7-13700k and an RTX 4080. Quite the upgrade over my old i5-4690k and GTX 970.
Anyways, what exactly does it mean to have a push-pull configuration?
My Lian Li 216 case came with 2 front mounted fans that are sucking air into the case. I then installed the Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360. I plugged the pump fan into the CPU_FAN, so it should be blowing at full speed all the time. I have the 3 fans on the radiator installed on top of my case and they are sucking air out of the case.
The case also came with 1 fan on the back of the computer that is sucking air out of the back of the case. Is that how I should have it set up? Seems like it cuz otherwise if the top fans were pulling air into the case, it seems like that would just make the air inside the case bounce around instead of cold air being pulled in the front of the case and warm air being ejected out of the top and back of the case.
How many maximum watts can you consume with arctic 360mm?
Hey, you could help me a ton by letting me know your temps
I too have a 13700k and im trying to decide between the 360 and 420, do you ever thermal throttle? What are your temps at higher wattages or on cinebench.
@@bbdedeoglu Not sure the maximum, never really tried to OC it or anything. But I've seen it hit 300 watts in HWInfo when running OCCT or Prime95 torture test.
@@alexangell903 Well, I'm sure it thermal throttled at stock while running Prime95 torture test or OCCT Small Data Set AVX2 stress tests. Temps would hit 100C. But I have had it underclocked for months now. I had it underclocked by -.100mV and it was totally fine running games and temps would never reach above like 75-80C. I think I got a random BSOD once in like 3 months. But since then, I have ran OCCT Small Data Set AVX2 and Prime95 Small torture stress tests and figured out that I'm really only truly stable at around -.045mV undervolt. So that's what I have it at now and my temps never really go above 90C during stress testing or 70C while gaming.
I wonder what the temp difference is of the coolant on push pull config vs push or pull
I have a Corsair aio and the coolant temp can get to 35 F
I did not see a temp difference in pump speeds between performance or balanced so I kept it at balanced (2500 rpm).
My CPU is a Ryzen 7 7700x
funny question: how do you mount those to your case if all the rad screw slots are filled for mounting it to the fan?
The inside side of the rad have the fans mounted to pull air.
The outside side of the rad sandwich the case with his fans that push air so it would look something like this.
If pc face right : Fans-Rad-FrontCasePlate-Fans
What kind of screws are you using for the additional "pull" fans?
You need to bring your coolant temp back down between tests. It feels like it takes forever, but not doing so can skew your data favoring earlier tests.
Hello I had some questions pertaining to your test and about Arctic coolers I would really appreciate your response. So first off for your testing what paste did you use and did you use something like a thermalright1700 bracket that is known to drop temps? I'm just wondering if it would be under 90c with a bracket or if you used them in this test. I don't care much for the push-pull just 13700k and 360 results.
Secondly and my mainly, I am wondering with the Arctic Liquid Freezer ii 360 vs 420 for high end CPU's like 13700k and 13900k that can pull 250w-300w and over if the 420 works start to show a significant performance increase and temp drop compared to the 360 cooler, there isn't much info on this and I have searched extensively. Gamer Nexus test only up tp 200w and the general consensus is at the 360 and 420 only show a marginal temp difference, however I wonder if at higher wattages the 420 might shine.
I have the same AIO only 420mm and with R23 with i9 13900K I also have 95-100C. Forza 5 games, Assassins running 55-70C max. Only BF 2042 runs around 80C because it consumes up to 255W. I saw a max of 368W with the R23.
you can set your PL1 to 125 Watt and PL2 to 253 Watt. I guarantee you’ll get far lower temperature after you set those
lol,.. my fans dont even turn on or move at those temps. Neat.
@@96kylar PC fan need to run
I think this cooler is done for its age with no upgrades. I am thinking to throw mine and get a Corsair..
Hey dude,
I am using my 13700k with my Arctic 360mm and z690 motherboard, but I was able to reach a maximum of 263 watts. I have never seen 300 watts. What kind of setting do I need to do for this?
With a push-pull setup using the 360mm Arctic in a Corsair 4000D case at 26c+ ambient room temperature (I don't have an ac running all the time) I get 45c-55c idle and intense gaming with fan rpm speeds kept at or around 800-1000rpm. At or around 23c room temperature (with ac on) I get 32-55c idle and intense gaming. It does amazingly with my undervolted amd 9 5900x which is known to idle at around 55c. Overclocked however I get idle and gaming temps at 65c+ all the time.
Hello, I have the same 4000d cabinet, but I have the aio on the front since it is a 340mm, could you help me?
Do you recommend pushing or extracting air? I cannot do push and pull since I have to purchase the missing refrigerators.
I've always installed my rads in a front-mounted push/pull setup. The benefits here are that the fans on the front are not only drawing in cool air for the radiator but the fans on the back are ensuring that that cool air is also making it to the GPU. I've seen differences in GPU temps of up to 10C while using this configuration.
The non rgb fans have a lower rpm and no fan frame
Imagine this but with the 420 I wonder how toasty the 13900ks will run it
100с without undervolting....
I run 6 bequiet silent wings pro 4 fans running push/pull config on an Asus rog ryujin iii 360 aio cooler with TR contact frame and TG kryonaut extreme on my 13900ks. Cools it fine but does thermal throttle when power limits are removed.
thanks mate, you saved my time!
Can you flip the fans around on this particular radiator? Im new to this and stressing breaking anything lol
How did you do this? did you have to buy extra screws for the other 3 fans or did the screws come with fans or the cooler? Thanks been looking for an answer for this I’m trying to get this aio ASAP
You can see what comes with the cooler on their site. Most likely the screws are M3x30 if its not listedn so you cam buy online. You can also just use 2 screws on each fan.
You have to get the screws separately and be sure to get proper length screws. Take into account the thickness of the fans and radiator plus the case bracket. Too long screws will end up hitting the radiator fins.
It is time to join the PCMR watercooling club. "Once you get WET, you're all SET!" Lol.
Should use Noctua
From what I understand: If CPU-temps are a priority, you should mount your rad as an intake with the fans sitting on the inside and sucking outside air in through the radiator. Personally, I have mine set up as a front-intake but with the fans towards/on the outside, blowing fresh air in and through the rad. Gotta see those RGB-fans through the front mesh, after all. Temps on my non-UVed 14700KF are pretty great like that, but I haven't tried the "suck" method, so I can't compare.
I'm actually a bit annoyed at the fact that they now pre-install the fans at the factory. From what I can tell, all manufacturers do this in a manner that supports an exhaust installation, meaning the fans are on the inner side of the radiator (the side to which the hoses connect), set up to push air through. My case only supports a 360 in the front (top max is 280), so even if I had wanted to mount the AiO as a top exhaust, I couldn't have. Meaning I had to take off all the fans and since the fans on my Lian Li Trinity (standard) are daisy-chained with semi-internal leads that are very short, it all felt a bit like a Three Stooges routine. I could've undone the internal connections between the fans but that would've also been a bit fiddly (the instructions in the manual don't make it look like an easy operation). So mounting everything meant on one side of the front of the case I was juggling around three 120mm fans that are all wired to each other, while trying to hold the radiator in place on the inside of the front-panel and trying to get all the screw-holes to line up. Basically: Trying to mount this thing with the fans on the outside and rad on the inside of the case's mounting rails is a bit of a nightmare. And I don't think I could've mounted one fan after the other and then do the daisy-chaining after, because once mounted, you can't access any of the fans' internal wiring.
Added bonus: The daisy-chain connections on the fans can only run on one side of the fans which means that in my scenario, they either run on the rear panel/motherboard-side but then have to exit towards the bottom of the rad - or, if I had re-connected them all, they would've run on the glass-panel side and would've exited the fan-stack at the top. Both of which aren't ideal for cable-managing the PWM/RGB connections and getting to the CPU/FAN headers.
Why it's said that there's no space for an 360 aio if it actually fits ok in a push config? It's more than enough for 99% of users.
I'm over here searching for if my aio broke getting 93c at stock on cinebench. Thinking my setup has a prob. So these temps are normal with a freezer ii 360 with the 3 stock fans?
Nope 93 is a bit high tbh. My 5800X3D gets max 83°C in Cinebench with a "worse" AIO.
@@mchwmedia Found out its common for the 13700k on cine, gaming and anything else it was cool. Was worried cause I just built it at the time and was looking for reasons.
@@Superb_Legend yeah they tend to run reaally hot nowadays 😅 keeps scaring me
@@mchwmedia I was like wtf did I do everything is correct I was overly ocd about it, nah they just run hot when maxed out even with a massive rad.
@@Superb_Legend if you still have issues with temps you can maybe try to undervolt. Reduces temps massively and isn't too hard to do if you follow the right steps
I just did this. You can have same temps with lower noise. They dont need to work as hard to cool. I allergic to noise or any sound at all.
My 5800x held 78c on cinebench with 800-1000 rpm but after push/pull its still 78c but with 400-600 rpm
Edit: Arctic freezer II 280 mm
Not buying it. Id bet a OG artic would be fine.
@@96kylar oc course its fine, but it if can be really quiet under high load for couple of bucks extra. I had 2 140mm fans extra from another build
@@96kylarNot really
get a 420mm freezer II and get thermaltake ex14 toughfan pro's and do the push pull running at full speed
straight to point good
good job danny!!
How do you connect all those fans to the CPU fan header?
PWM splitter, the P12 PWM only need 0,1A to work and the standard PWM header usually manages up to 1A
Although I personally would put the extra 3 on the CPU Opt header that most of the modern mobo have, since the arctic freezer runs the pump and vrm fan chained to the main fans
Hi everyone, I already have the 240mm version but I have a Lian li o11d mini with atx configuration so I cannot go with 360mm aio... Would you think the 240mm version hold the future i7 13700k? Shall I upgrade to 280mm maybe? Thx
You can definitely use a 360 on it. If atx motherboard, you need their offset brackets. You can also buy some 3d printed ones online. If smaller motherboard, you can just drop the motherboard tray down and it should clear the mobo at ram easily.
Don't use 240mm is not enough, it easily goes to 100C on my 13700KF.
For me a full custom waterloop is the future,
An AIO is just the go in between step when your still unsure about watercooling, but want something more than standard air cooled.
I have an Lian Li 011d XL, plenty of room for big radiators, but i decided to replace my AIO with an External Mo-Ra3 420 pro, go look that up. might be a better solution for Small Form Factor builds.
did you ever reseat the cooler?, it's odd that you're thermal throttling with a 360 phat boy radiator in the first place, maybe synthetics hit harder than I'd imagine but still seems weird.
Overclock something hard enough and no rad will be enough
You should also monitor current clock speed if your not running static OC why?? sometimes due to better cooling boost clock will increase while maintaining same temp as a result this confuse people thinking that there is no benefit at plus the real benefit is having a dead silent system running super slow RPM fam due to push + pull config
do you think these arctic liquid freezers are the most reliable AIOs with how well they seem to be built? and would you recommend someone to replace a freezer 34 with one of these if they’re rocking an 8 core or higher CPU?
I highly recommend them. Great performance, not too loud, and they aren't as overly expensive as some of the other units on the market. Plus I can vouch for Arctic's customer service they're excellent.
@@DannyzReviews i already have a freezer 34, and while it is amazing, it may feel like an upgrade would do me way more for the future if i want a jump in performance. thank you for your amazing content btw!
arctic has a 10/10 customer service record imo. they are one of the only ones that issue recalls anyway
@@fandomkiller i’m aware of that, they recalled before needing to be called out like some others (*cough cough* msi AIOs with all their issues). i’m convinced they have one of the best AIOs if not the best. they seem to be more durable
What if you decided to measure the coolant temp instead of the cpu temp? The fans are not actively cooling the Cpu and its temperature, rather they are cooling the coolant in the radiator. I'd love to see and analise the measurements on the liquid coolant and i dont see a point in measuring the cpu temperature in different benchmarks as the fans cool the radiator liquid. I think you missed the point of the video at some point.
Should I get 13700k or 13900k for gaming? I'm using 12900k
I’m curios what about push/push? Both sides push?
Probably not a good idea to have fans that close to eachother. Having fans standoff a few mm from eachother with washers and a longer M3x40 screw and then sealing the gap between the fans with paper or electical tape would give about the same.
What if i use front pull aio ?
i would have liked to see the cinebench score and the fps from tomb raider, intel said at one point, that their CPU is made to aim for that heat limit, so in many cases the temp would probably be very close, but you might see it clock higher and give a better score. its not all about bad CPU design, they have purposely made it, so it will try and hit its temp limit no matter what, by pulling as much power/mhz it can, sure at some point you might see it struggle to hit that limit, but that will req some pretty sick cooling, like some other youtubers have shown, like with the EK direct die cpu block, but that req delidding, and ofc not many wanna go through that :)
Pretty sure he said the CPU was overclocked to 5.5 GHz all-core. It's either normally 5.1 or 5.2 GHz all-core stock therefore the auto-boosting-based-on-temperature you're referring to is irrelevant as his CPU will "boost" to 5.5 GHz, on all cores, simultaneously, all the time (assuming they're loaded), regardless of temp.
Having said that, - you're correct - in stock configuration or if overclocked in a different way (still using Intel's boost algorithms) then better cooling can allow for improved clocks & therefore improved performance while not necessarily resulting in lower temps due to the improved cooling allowing for higher clocks/performance.
What where temps on the 13700k not over clocked
Low to mid 80s
@@DannyzReviews do you think it would be worth getting a 4080 and 13700k build that’s my plan
Depends on the what kind of performance target you're after. But a build like that would be powerful enough for even high-refresh gaming at 4K. 1440P would be no sweat either and for 1080P it would be extremely overkill.
@@DannyzReviews ok, I game, 3d modeling and sometimes rendering, school work, and make games
The fans that come with the cooler are designed for static pressure, not airflow. To get a genuine test, the rear 3 fans should be fans designed for airflow.
im doing this config for lower fan speed i'll put the specs in when i have my cpu in 3 months oh and the pull fans are p12 max if you wanna know
Was this AIO front or top mounted?
open test bench so it doesn't matter
Should have also tested pull only, usually pull has a few % advantage over push.
How did you overclock your CPU? I want to overclock mine.
LN2
i use pull at a 120mm aio befor it was push now i have 10C less then befor
Hello, I hope someone answers me please.
I have the aio in the front because of space reasons it doesn't fit on top.
What is recommended? draw cold air from outside or push it from inside. I'm currently pushing from the inside and I notice that my GPU is getting hotter.
Ai use Arctic LF III 420 ,in my opinion the problem wath Arctic AIO have is the pump, the pump have to low rotations.If they have a pump with 3500 rpm they have 100% better performance with 5 degree
push pull is never really the way to go tbh. It adds far more wires to mange ( depending on fans of course ) and is usually no better than just standard push or pull.
Push pull can generally be quite effective at the high end of OCs. It doesn't do much for instantaneous temps but it can help to keep the liquid temp itself a bit cooler. Generally 1-3 degrees.
@@OscyJack- yeah I was gonna say unless you really push your hardware. Or someone who really wants to min max performance
@@lilpain1997 fosho
@@OscyJack- First of all, you don't buy AIO for that. You get a custom loop with more water, at least 420 rad, stronger pump, and much better cpu head (water block)
@@Ludak021 arguably more necessary on an aio, as it needs the most help keeping liquid temps down as it is less efficient.
That said, custom isn't much superior in instant cooking, just sustained. It's all air cooling anyway
Turn off thermal velocity boost tbv enhanced, name can slightly vary depending on the motherboard. 13900k allcore oc with a fixed vcore at 5.6 and pcore at 45 using the same cooler nut the 420 rad my temps are in the 70s. And I'm assuming you did go into the bios and optimize some settings at least. So over this. 12th gen "I can't keep it cool" "it runs so hot" blah blah etc. Nope 12gen same as seat cpu correctly with the 12/13 gen contact a decent 360 (you dont need to have aut cpu direct die coolong witha chiller openl loop to oc 13th gen or keepnit cool) manually tune bios oc and ditch the garbage power save settings and turn off the settings that instructions send it to maintenance clocks as high for ad long and as close to tj max so if it senses head room its going to utilize as much as it can tbv is design to do this but turn this off and it wont throttle
Strange, my LFII 360 came with pull configuration (behind the rad, pulling cool air from the outside through the rad, instead of pulling hot air from the inside of the case). Then again, mine isn't ARGB, so that my be the reason why they changed it for ARGB, so you can see the rgb vomit better.
PS. it was ~98e euro when I bought it. That's cheaper than Noctua NH-S12 or thereabouts. LFII 360 a-rgb was ~125eur, and it has about ~1C worse performance than non argb variant. Probably because it's pulling hot air from the case, but you get the rgb vomit that you like.
I drop my aio in an ice bath when I wanna do heavy testing🤣 stays at 80c until the ice melts 🤣🤣🤣🤣🔥🔥🔥🔥
noooo... use static pressure fans on the push, and airflow fans for the pull
I thought u were doing push vs pull not push vs push pull
bIGGER rad is more important than fans . A car has only one sometime 2 fans max and its more than enough , The size of the rad and material is the most important.
A car is getting air cooled by the movement of the vehicle the fans are just extra....
@@LarsSeprest what happens when your stuck in traffic? You need fans also
Any configuration that included "pushing" air through the radiator is a bad idea. Unless your computer is in a 'clean room' it will build up dust and debris on the side of the rad that the air is flowing in to. If you pull fresh air into the rad any build up is a simple wipe on the outside to restore efficiency. If you push air through the rad, you will need to remove all the fans to clean and restore efficiency to the system. And with most systems, this also requires you to remove the rad from the system.
I was planning to front mount my rad , until I read this comment , I suppose you reccomend top mount exhaust ?
@@Michael-hb8nq Expelling air creates negative pressure, causing air to enter the PC through any available opening, including unfiltered ones, leading to dust accumulation. Conversely, drawing air in through the front with a radiator means it passes through a filter, reducing dust buildup and only requiring periodic filter cleaning.
If you want a game that puts a HUGE load on the CPU then play New World. I've never played a game that pushes CPU temps as much as it does.
too thin a rad to make any difference
Thanks for helping me save 80bucks 😂🎉
You have a KF not a K
P 12 max
Bro lol 😂 optimize your fans in bios i get up to 70 in R23 and i get like 28k score also i have my case fans plugged in to motherboard
Yeah push-pull is overrated
Can be. Can also be impactful
Push pull is always better - its been proven for gaming as cpu isnt locked at 100%
Personally tower coolers look way... cooler than aios
you added cheap fans.. so there is no point to have better cooling solution those fans are chepeast and goes nowhere, i gave those fans for free... to someone that i do not know him.. Those fans are worst. When i added better fan there is huge difference. It is not only CFM it is important how much pressure can hold at rpm.. So better fans have better pressure. Bad movie presentation.
they are not bad fans 😂 They’re some of the best budget fans obviously they aren’t Lian li infinities or LL120 or noctua fans but they are still good budget fans
I have a 13700k on a Taichi z790 with an Artic Liquid Freezer II 420mm in Push pull and still hit 100'c on the cpu doing R23 (ambient temps are 24'c) Fractal Torrent case (my cpu refuses to undervolt, even -.10v will crash R23). Not only that I have 7200mhz CL34 32GB and it'll never boot, have to drop all the way down to 6600mhz with tigher timmings, this round of cpu/mobo totally suck :(. Wish i didnt upgrade from my 10700k @5.3ghz all cores with 32gb 3600mhz DDR4, never broke a sweat and was stable af. 🥲
Power target too high?
Did yu have to cut your fractal torrent to do a push pull config?