It was hotter after you installed it because it was able to draw more wattage. So, that simply means the benchmark was able to also draw more which will, obviously, add heat. So this is good. Really good. Simply put, the added cooling abilities allows to push the cpus output performance. You would only result in cooler temps if there was a way to cap the wattage usage to match that of the test done before you did the install. That would truly show if it lowers temps.
It can also be useful when overclocking than having motherboard ai or stock marketing junk, manual is a better option to handle better voltages and probably oc to 5.6 to 5.7ghz
No, this is not completely correct. Yes, it dissipated more power (watts) which is why it ran hotter. *BUT the whole idea of this frame is to keep the CPU cooler.* So this is NOT good. This merely showed that the throttling of the CPU was slightly different between the two tests and the software gave a slight advantage to the aftermarket bracket by allowing it to run slightly hotter. I'm willing to bet that if he ran many tests in both before and after configurations and averaged the results out, there would be little to no difference. The biggest factor by far was the overall thermal setup - actual cooler used plus thermal conductivity of the thermal compound. I do agree with the your last part. The only true comparison is to have both tests dissipate the same amount of power and measure the final temperature difference, if any. In theory, if this frame was part of the overall cooling frame (e.g. thermal conductive paste between frame and CPU) then the added mass of the new thermal frame would add a tiny bit to the overall heat dissipation. But, then, the original steel bracket would have also added to the overall heat dissipation as well. However, Aluminum makes a better thermal conductor.
@@redclaw72666 manual oc is NOT better on amd, intels do not have a quick response clock gen like ryzen has, so them constantly running at max clock but reduced bus is ok, but amds cant reduze IF clock, which is why a manual oc´d ryzen will chunk power.
I've got the Ryzen 7 7700X. I had some weird temperature issues early on. I was just using the standard bracket to lock down the cpu. First couple applications had the cpu hitting the 95 degree mark under any multicore type of load. I saw the AM5 bracket and went with it as it also works as a way of blocking thermal paste from getting to the parts on the pcb. I hadn't even considered the IHS bending. The thing fixed my temps. I definitely recommend that people consider swapping the standard bracket off their AM5 boards.
You should probably still not consider the IHS bending, because it's not doing that, if it was nothing short of bending it back flat would fix it. What is happening is the ILM is too long for a single arm ILM to keep equal pressure on both sides of the IHS so it's allowing the chip to sit unevenly in the socket. Which is why these contact frames actually work.
The contact frame, aside from providing a secure and even mount for the CPU, also provides *more Aluminum MASS that helps to further bleed heat from being connected to the IHS.*
its a worthwhile upgrade to mitigate bending in the long term. the stock ilm has been shown to bend the cpu, keep it mounted for years and countless heat cycles it could become permanent. either frame will prevent this. i have the thermalright installed in 13900k, fast and easy install, with a bit more saftey built in over the thermal grizzly frame.
DO NOT cinch down the screws, two finger tight only and stop when the screws stops turning, make sure all four are equal, gradually tighten opposite corners a bit at a time. If you're worried about the screws backing out get a threadlock stick and apply to the end of the screw (you could use liquid too but the stick is easier) Performance of the Thermalright and Thermal Grizzley frames are basically the same except the Thermalright frame is much easier to install. The Thermalright frame sits flush with the MB and the Thermal Grizzley frame floats, with the Thremalright frame you just stop when the screws stop where with the Thermal Grizzley one you have to fiddle with screw tension (ideally use a torque controlled screwdriver). If you use acetone to clean the CPU don't get it on the plastic "feet" on the ends of the Thermalright frame it will attack the plastic and the adhesive that is used to attach them to the frame.
@@JohnSmith-pn2vlgamers nexus tested and they do perform the same. Thermalright has greater variance in machining precision but not enough to effect thermals
dude wth are doing using acetone anywhere near a motherboard or CPU? even the vapour will depolymerise (i.e. molecularly disintegrate) polycarbonate or ABS. The electrical insulation lamination on PCBs is often PC. There are ABS and PC plastic components across your motherboard and also on the case. Even the shroud on your GPU is made from PC/ABS. You are literally molecularly disintegrating your entire PC. Plus it's flammable, toxic, volatile and a respiratory system irritant. Use 99% isopropyl alcohol as used and recommended by the manufacturer.
Was using default type of the frame for my 12600k and it actually stopped working after ~ 1 year. It occurred my CPU bent A LOT and was way too kind of curvy. So, basically, there was no contact between CPU and the socket. I recommend everybody to purchase this 10$ thing, it will save much more
There was once I release the lever, it skip off my finger because the strength of the lever is quite strong, the cpu jump up a bit, rest on a few pins and cause the pins to bent. I'm so lucky to bend it back to position. I feel that from now on, the socket should follow this type of design. The spring loaded lever is too strong, there is a chance it can skip off the finger because of the curve in/out way of tightening. The spring is shiny stainless steel that made the surface slippery off the finger of the curve in/out way of tightening and release. Now I always place one hand fingers to stop the rectangle metal from spring out that lead the cpu outward force jumping out while release the lever.
I have it for the am5 7950x. I knew while purchasing that it won't do much for the temps, maybe 1° here and there. But it's a life saver if you will be constantly changing or removing the cooler. I was waiting on my case, then I knew I would be going custom loop. So it made sense for me buying this. Bought it straight away when I purchased the CPU.
Are If you are like me you might just buy one because having things nice and tidy just makes you feel smarter. I'm not moving CPUs from systems but I could see a lot of value in this even If it is mostly aesthetic for long-term durability. If you have to spend extra to make your system last longer well it's worth it.
@@kissofthecobra3761 keeping it tidy 100%. Even if you are taking the cooler off once every year (which you should always change your themal paste at least a year), it's worth it. It just keeps the whole CPU clean. I don't think it does anything for durability, at least for amd cpus, the whole die is square so it evenly spreads the pressure, unlike intels. Same for the thermals. Doesn't do anything.
Got this same exact part for my build (13900k) and it has been a lifesaver, paired with the lt720 aio from deepcool I’ve been able to OC to 6ghz and I’ve never throttled and even under full load for sustained periods I never get higher than 93C temp. Aesthetically (even though you can’t see it once the aio is mounted) it looks better on the motherboard than the default frame too lol.
I have bought 13900k, lt720, and now looking at contact frames. 6 Ghz and maximum temp are 93 C, just wow. How is that possible? Is it related to the OC settings? What was your stock results?
The Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame is manufactured and produced in Germany and it has lower tolerances than the one from Thermalright. I am using the one from Thermalright, because the Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame wasn't available, when i needed it. The Mounting is also slightly different - Gamers Nexus did a good Video about it. Edit: I am using an i5 13600k slightly overclocked to 5.4 on the P-Cores, 4.4 on the E-Cores and 4.9 on the Cache with a fixed voltage of 1.26V (equal to stock under load). In my case, i got a 9°C improvement in liquid temperature. The CPU itself was 15°C cooler than before. Testet in Cinebench R23 with a warming up time of 20 minutes and a 30 minute test run - my loop has about 450 to 500ml of coolant and a single 360mm radiator.
this, availability is a bih most of the times i swear. i can barely get my hands on an arctic aio. had to buy it from an unreviewed item online, glad the seller delivered. And so i opted for thermalright as well.
The Thermalright frame is much easier to install that was enough for me. If you're going to make a better solution to Intel's over engineered jank then don't replace it with more over engineered jank. (but then the Thermal Grizzley one is german designed and germans are all about over engineered jank)
No way it's stable at 1.26v. Try compling the shaders on Last of Us 1. It's gonna crash every 20 seconds. That was my experience until I raised the voltage
Good stuff but, you also must have done other things in conjuction as, 25 degrees is way too high of a number for it to only be reflective of a plate. Somewhere between 6-12C is what these plates will give you.
@@potvinsuks8730 If you get unlucky with a particular curved CPU and a cooler curved the other way, this can very much be possible due to bad contact. Also, could have tightened up the screws or changed thermal paste application.
10:22 Yes, that's perfect. Screws and bolts are tightened to a specific torque spec as a mechanical protect against vibration unscrewing or unbolting the fastener. Vibration isn't enough in a PC case to have to worry about that.
If you are already hitting 330 watts on a 13900k without the contact frame, then your CPU is fine and the contact frame won't do much. The contact frame does wonders when your CPU already hits 100c and throttles at 220 to 250 watts.
I still recommend if you plan to keep your current setup for a long time. At least you will have even pressure on your chip for how many years you decide to not upgrade.
I use this with an i7-12700k and my temps went down by 7-10 Celsius compared to what it originally was. Also, I plan on using the same bracket for an i7-13700k
This Frame 100% works. The Thing is, if your CPU is overheating _heavily_ already, because there is no power limit and you did not do any undervolting, it's hard to see the benefit so easily, since no power-limit means only the temperature is the limit. Which in this case is tjMax 100°C. I have close to 42k with undervolt without power limit on air cooling in Cinebench R23 Multicore. Or 41k with 253W Power Limit.
yeah and what they don't tell you is that it kills the warranty of your motherboard so that little $10 object can turn into what ever the price of your motherboard is to pay again if you ever have an issue with it, better be safe than sorry, won't put my warranty at risk for 5 fps more and 10 degress cooler lol
as a guy who had Z690 and i7-13700KF without frame and then installed frame - I can tell buying this frame is a MUST, its not even a question. In my situation difference was so big and obvious. It stopped thermal throttling, temperatures become more stable (they dont jump 70 to 90C), and overall lower idle temps
Love these videos!! 😤 I previously had the Lian Li Galahad 240mm aio w/ stock fans on my 13700k, and it would get around 84-87c on r23 while never passing 74c while gaming Changed to the MSI MEG Coreliquid S280mm aio w/ 2 140mm Silent Wing Pro fans, and that exact same contact frame. On r23 it wouldn't pass 74c, and while gaming it wouldn't pass 64c. My custom fan curve was the same for both, as well as the CPU undervolt.
1-2°C actually can be ignored when considering margin of error. Its just 1% increase and most people ignore change upto 5%. So this frame increased your performance while keeping temps same. Totally worth it.
Bought this at lanch for my 13700K and it made an immediate difference and it was so, so cheap....dropped temps and allowed for more headroom. It actually works!
The second test is 1 degree C higher because it was running 13 seconds longer, as you said. More time, more heat during the test. I just hope that bracket doesn't trap heat on the sides of the CPU. Given the temperature, I think it would be ideal if the bracket was an additional heatsink dissipating the heat from the sides of the CPU. Additional passive cooling combined with good case ventilation. Would love to see a test run then.
@@THE-X-Force Month later so not sure how usefull this is, but i have the 13700k. My pc kept overheating to 100C, which made certain games crash under heavy load. Simply turning off CPU Game Boost in Bios completely solved it, and max is now around 85C, no more crashes. I also havent really noticed any difference, but dont have any stats to back that up
Thanks for the review! Great one! Would you mind testing the AM5 model aswell? Watching along the video I was hoping for the AM5 version benchmarks and also your thoughts on wether it could damage some of the components as they're outside the IHS unlike the Intel CPUs
Hopefully u already know this for 13th gens, but with the high temps I changed the incoming voltage by using the bios settings. There is different voltage profiles and I went to the 4th one down and I get higher speeds and the temperature stays under 75degrees. No more thermal throttle which allowed me to keep on my highest cpu clocks… I tried 6 other volt profiles and tested each one but it will vary depending on ur cpu… I am now able to use air cooling on my 13900k and I got 42000 on my last 10 min test. There are lots of videos on it now but I’m wondering why he isn’t doing that for any of his videos…. I hope he can do a video on his process if he does do it cause then it will help a lot more ppl. Thank you for all ur hard work! It doesn’t go unnoticed! Lol
@@petbalogh erm i doubt he is staying under 75c with 42k score... my 13900kf cant do that with the bracket and an undervolt... i hit nearly 43k with an oc... 5.9 on 2 cores rest sit at 5.6... and 4.5 on e cores..
Oh!!! I invested in one when I built my PC last August and have to say my temp is often at max 50 degree unless I am testing my system it will peak at 81 degree. It idles around 30 degrees most of the time. I am using a 12700K, Noctua NH -D15 Chromax. Black and BeQuiet Silent wings 3.
Yesss. With my new PC using this contact frame, works perfecly... No overthermal issues. For the price, every cent is properly waist. Nice Channel, you are in the right way. Cheers my friend.
Thank you very much for this. I didn't even know these existed until I found out on a Reddit forum earlier today. It makes me wonder what other cool, very beneficial components are out there that consumers may not be aware of. Maybe it's something to consider making a video about; a roundup of lesser known but useful computer components. Cheers.
I did install one yesterday, when I installed my 13700KF, and it not only makes your CPU about 3 degrees cooler, in conjunction with a Peerless 120 the temps can only hit thermal throttling after 3 minutes of torture. My temperatures have come down to 28-30 degrees, depending on the measure point. Before, they were 32-36 on average. For those skeptical, think about the investment in your gear. My wattage was around 248 before it started throttling.
As I'll soon be running a 7800X3D inside an ITX case with a LP air cooler, I'll take every advantage I can get, particularly since the contact frame seems to make contact at more points on the IHS, plus have the air blowing directly on the contact frame which will hopefully mean more heat dissipation. Great video! Sometimes it's the simple things that can equate to good gains
I noticed you was talking about bending the CPU, and just recently done a PC upgrade using the Z690 itx m-board with the Intel i9-13900 CPU, in the Asus manual it does say to remove that clear plastic tube that is over the arm that locks down the cover plate for the CPU, and in this video it looks like you still have the shipping cover tube still on the locking arm / lever. did you know about removing it? i just caught it by chance and so glad i read the manual even for simple things i have done many times in the past.. hope this helps many PC builders out..
Very good presentation. 👍 The only thing I could mention is that we don't know for how long you were using your cooler with the thermal paste before you install the contact frame. I mean, maybe, you got better results because of applying new thermal paste. In any case, I find this product and its idea that represents great! 👌Thank you for sharing this with us.
The IHS is not bending, the single arm ILM frame is not strong enough to keep pressure on both sides of the CPU causing it to not sit as flat as needed for good cooler contact. If your IHS was bending a contact frame wouldn't solve that issue, the CPU would still be uneven.
This also fixes some problems with heavier dual tower air coolers and certain mobos bending the socket making the ILM frame issue even more pronounced. I've seen 5-10c documented improvements with watercooling running the same voltages and clocks but upwards of 15c cooler temps when using a heavy dual tower air cooler and the contact frame.
it's more like additional surface area than anti-bend which helps with temps. the pressure to the CPU is little as the pressure is just enough for the mobo pins to contact securely to the CPU. The IHS is also more than thick enough for that pressure. If there is even bending, it will happen on the vertical axis of the CPU, increasing pressure to the center.
Excellent video, I'm in the middle of filming mine right now. Same CPU & motherboard but w/ the Artice Liquid Freezer II 360. will tweet you the results.
I have 14700KF CPU and it doesn't bend. I checked. It fits really well in a socket, no big pressure. Actually I bought bracket but I didn't need to use it. And my temperatures are pretty low, no need to get lower, since I don't boost over 5,7/4,5GHz
Got this Thermalright contact frame for a NUC12 compute element a couple months back and it actually reduced temps by around 10°. Initially I wanted to by the Thermal Grizzly one, but the price of the Thermalright was so low, it was worth trying out.
I am presently using the Thermalright - I saw an 8degree Celsius reduction on my 13700k Thermalright - Mass Production item, flatness changes from bracket to bracket. IE one side could be .5 or 1 and 2 mm then a third side. Thermal Grizzley - custom built, consistent tolerance across all brackets. More consistence fitting and temperatures.
Hardly. A flat piece of glass and a calipers will easily tell you if it is off at all. I have the jungle leopard $9 one and it is perfectly even in dimensions. It is not Wang Choo making these on a 1940 milling machine while drinking rice wine, these things are being spit out on a decent cnc mill.
Insane insane great explanation sir. Very very useful. Thanks a lot. Keep it up. PC industry need you. You are the only best professional PC enthusiast for creators. Great sir. Great.
I'm glad I found out about this while waiting for my 14700K to be delivered. No idea why Amazon is taking so long to ship the damn thing. But, still this is very cool!
I bought these for every AM5 build to hopefully help with thermalpaste and maybe even better temps. At only $9 it was a small additional price. I did also buy Noctua's offset kits.
This tiny thing works really well for me, i squish all my set all the time, and temps never go more the 73°C, and thats the top beacause it doesnt keep that top, avg its about 66°-70°, im very happy.
New Kraken AIO series were just lunched today! Kraken Elite 360mm (new name for Kraken Z series) is one of them. Can you please test it on your 13900K and show us whether EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 or this new Kraken Elite 360mm is better at cooling. Thank you :)
I got a 13900k last week and I already can tell it thermal throttles no matter what load it's under and there's one or two AIO that are 360mm that can just barely keep that at 99%... but even with this contact frame (which it has already been proven you can bend and file down the contact points on the stock mount and get the same results. I also suggest getting the kryonaut extreme thermal paste, I haven't gotten my 360 aio yet but just the paste alone dropped my 240 aio temps by about 5c... which really surprised me honestly. I'm note sure if you mentioned thermal throttling either, but the core temps were at 100C so regardless, the package will be at 100C... so you're better off ignoring that because without the frame it's going to do the same thing, and it's going to throttle it down to reasonable temps... it's insane... i heard the 14900k was slightly better but I cba to buy the same processor for 1-2 degrees improvement. That being said... the point of having a faster processor is better if you are in 4k, because at 4k, you use less cpu than at 1440 or 1080p, because at 1080p you can reach a frame cap in some games that... admittedly is pointless.
My 14700K was thermal throttling (100°C+) under full load with the recommended 253W PLs. However, after undervolting and installing the Thermalright contact frame, it now reaches max temps of 85-90°C (on just one or two cores - the rest run cooler) with no PLs whatsoever. With my own PLs in place (225W flat; I find anything above to result in diminishing returns) and two core clocks raised by a ratio or two, my max temps never exceed 85°C under full load. For what it's worth, I'm using an air cooler (Thermalright FS 140 V3) and the standard TF7 paste that came with the contact frame. I imagine I may be able to lower the temps even further (5-10°C perhaps) with some form of water-cooling, but I'm not in a hurry to do so as things stand. IMO, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to get your 13900K running at reasonable temps (stock). I think it's just a case of identifying the crux of the thermal issue and resolving it. In my example, it was poor contact between the CPU and cooler (something I might have gotten away with on a lower wattage CPU, but these chips require additional precision and attention when cooling). TL;DR: persevere with trying to reduce the temps, and good luck.
This is the nicest and most easiest video to understand of what this modification is for the Intel platform I'm getting an Intel 12400F and I would assume you don't really need it for the lower-end CPUs.
yeah I have used them and I like how easy it is to install. I had an issue with a build using intel's mechanism and had to swap one of these Thermalright's frame but I had issues from the beginning trying to get the system stable overall. RMA my MB will see what happens
There is a huge misunderstanding on your part! you misunderstood the use of that product! in the 12th generation of intel chips, now the motherboard is faulty, it is bent in the chipset part! and the effect of this product is to prevent the motherboard from being curved in the chipset. When the motherboard is bent, the chipset heatsink will not be good, leading to the chipset getting hot! Therefore, the main effect of this product is to prevent curvature in the chipset part of the motherboard, not to help reduce the temperature of the chipset! I personally find this product very convenient because when using it, applying thermal paste will be a lot easier!
You might cover this, I have not gotten that far into your video just yet, however I know for a fact that the one you have bottoms out. I know as I installed one on my own rig. It was last gens CPU for Intel on my MSI Tomahawk Z690 board. Thermal Grizzly does not. What I am saying is that when you crank down Thermal Rights you bottom it out. It actually touches the board. I don't believe Thermal Grizzly does this. You have to work the frame around and have no reference when the pressure is equal and correct around the sides. The Thermal Right takes the worry about a tilted frame. I suppose you can still tilt it, however it you look at the bottom and it is equal all the way around then I guess you did okay. My rig posted for me with no problems. No problems with memory or anything else. I have heard where you can mess up your post if the frame is uneven.
Yeah I've gotten a 13700K, and I used this exact frame and MX6 paste with a DeepCool HK620. I did have to lower the voltage of my CPU to 1,225V to prevent it from thermal throttling. Now at 100% load it goes to 96 degrees max and I get a CineBench score of 30.166 points
There are no thermal problems with Risen and there are no thermal benefits from using this frame. This frame is purely for protection from thermal paste. It also looks cool.
It should be noted that the difference is not that huge if the CPU is already bent. So before you build a new PC remember to use this. Steve from GN said this.
Metals don't work that way, you have to bend copper a certain amount before plastic deformation occurs otherwise it springs back and the amount of bending going on isn't even close to enough for that to happen. I checked mine with an engineering straight edge and a light and there was no permanent bending. Temps went down by 9C~10C after installation.
@@masterdftw4983 If they said that a few hundredth of a millimeter of deflection was enough to cause permanent deformation in copper then yes I'm saying they are wrong. Because copper does not do that. That amount of deflection is not even close to enough to cause plastic deformation in copper. I will trust what the engineering books say (and my own observation with a machined straight edge) over some guy on youtube.
HIgher clock speeds generate more heat, so perhaps by being able to achieve higher clock speeds with the THermalright plate accounts for the slightly higher temps.
i dont understand the need im running a 12900ks and never see temps above 60 on full load with a AIO, but if fell like if your buying a higher end processor you can get a AIO
So what's the best AIO for the 13900k? I'm in the process of building a new PC. I'm still running an i7-6700k... lol! I play games and also perform Blender Renders along with Substance Stager/Painter here and there. I'll get a contact frame as well, but if the AIO makes the biggest difference, then which AIO is currently the best for this CPU? Currently limited to a 360mm AIO. Do you have a recent video that covers this already?
The question is also, if we reduce the temperature because of this frame, because it has contact with the heathspreader?...in essence, we increase the thermal mass and surface area of the heathspreader. So it is in our interest that there is not only good mechanical contact between them, but also thermal contact. It would be interesting to see how cold the temperatures would be if you applied an ultra-thin layer of thermal paste to the surfaces where the frame and the heat spreader touch or where the frame presses on the heathspreader. In that sense, these frames are poorly constructed. Basically, in addition to mechanical rigidity, you should also have as much surface area as possible. I'll try it on my new AM5 system...just a little...a little bit of thermal paste on the contacts of the heatsspreader and the frame can't hurt...just the application should be really minimal, and rather on the frame than on the processor when it's already in the socket ...just less possibility of "accident".
Hi there Tech Notice. When I received my PC with a new i9 12900ks I instantly decided to remove the factory thermal paste and use my own. When I looked at the waterblock and the CPU contact points I immediately noticed the way the thermal paste was pushed to the sides. I have photos of both the water block and the CPU showing this. Let me know if you would like me to send them to you? It was very obvious and pretty disturbing to see so I decided to do some research on this and found the contact frames. After installing the frame I noticed about a 10 degree drop in temperature. After that I undervolted all the cores individually .120 volts. After that I ran cinebench and the score increased significantly similar to yours, but what I noticed more was that it now dropped 15 degrees and stopped throttling completely. It wouldn't go higher then 92 degrees on max load. For me it was a great experience, especially undervolting as many have suggested. It was a bit sad to see Intel excepted this cpu functioning this way knowing very well people would notice it. They claim the CPU runs within specs as is. Even though it is not optimal. I love the Tron lights on the back wall, where did you get them? Peace!
@@davidsanagustine9922 Respect for AMD! My last rig had an AMD FX 8350 from 2012 running with a GTX 1070 and it was a beast until I sold it in 2018 because I needed cash to move. I stopped building for a while until I was offered this rig 8 months ago for $1750 with original receipt which was a deal back them. Ubuypower i9 12900ks (w/ contact frame) RTX 3090ti and 32gb 5200 ram with all the bells and whistles. He paid $4200 for it 4 months before. If I build another in the future I may go AMD as long as it doesn't blow up like some are recently. For me its bang for the buck not the manufacture. Enjoy!!
Not only Thermalright frame is much cheaper, but it also has superior pressure distribution to TG one, making it a better performer. Makes you think what the hell were they thinking...
Its crazy how high auto vcore is on the 13900k... got mine down to 1.25 from 1.43... dropped my r23 temps by 20c and kept the same performance... hell im now at 5.9 on 2 cores and 5.6 on the rest with a score of 42k and still doesn't require 1.43v like default runs cooler as well.
The auto vcore is set compatible with any CPU, to avoid any instability, of course, it has a higher voltage. That is why players like us will tweak the settings to better match our hardware. But I am curious what your sp/ biscuit score is for your CPU, based on your information, it seems like a very good one.
Of course the biggest different would be the cooler, liquid has less pressure on the plate however if you have cheap on 150$ and stick to air cooling that's a big win.
I'm using the cheaper Thermalright which is simple because you tighten down fully, but using the Thermal Grizzly you can over-tighten and damage the CPU / CPU Pins. I've had zero issues with my Thermalright CPU bracket and my temps are about 5°C cooler on my i9-13900K.
Not as easy to install as it looks imho. TURN SLOW with a little pressure on cpu at all times to prevent it from moving. Only like approximately 2 rotations needed for the first screw to become so tight that it tilts and rotates the processor + contact frame out of the socket (Luckily no damage to pins). Also you need to install the backplate of the cooler to hold the cpu backplate to the board. So many videos make no mention of this... its the act of rotating the screws counter-clockwise until they click that can cause it to move. When that happens, you gotta find a magnetic screwdriver to lift the screws out so you can peak through the holes and re-align the board with the backplate. Also be mindful of SMD's on the back of the mobo when you put it down. An issue that was specific to me is one of the mobo screws was slightly deformed... it wouldn't let go of the included wrench without a lot of wiggling or tremendous force (to the point of wanting to rip out of the board unless i turned it down 1 and 1/4 times), and it wouldn't click if i turned it counter-clockwise. I had no choice but to just turn all the screws until they just started to tighten and then used a torque screwdriver to finish up the torque pattern (8-9 in-lb worked for me to approximate hand-tightening... for comparison, since no manufacturer of these contact frames wants to specify a torque value, the ThreadRipper processors come with a torque screwdriver that is set to 13 in-lb).
Please help! I watched your videos on ProArt systems and contact frames and decided to use one on my first build, but have run into a problem. I bought a ProArt PA602 case, a ProArt LC 420 AIO cooler, and a ProArt Z790 motherboard with an Intel 14900KF processor housed in a Thermal Grizzly contact frame, and tried to put them together. Assembly went normally until I tried to install the waterblock/pump head onto the CPU. I used the hex-styled standoffs labeled for an LG1700, as per the instructions, and just lightly seated them onto the motherboard, not over-tightening. The Thermal Grizzly contact frame is absolutely not touching or otherwise interfering with the motherboard or CPU fitment. The standoff screws seem not long enough with the included Intel-style backing plate to give any thread to install the thumbscrew caps which fasten down the waterblock/pumphead. There is a gap left beneath the AIO mounting bracket of just about the size I would expect to give enough thread for the thumbscrew caps, if only the waterblock copper face were a bit shorter in height. When settling the waterblock onto the CPU, the tip of each standoff screw just barely comes flush with the outside/top of the waterblock mounting bracket, leaving no thread to fasten them on at all. I've redone this from scratch twice now, carefully rechecking everything I did, and cannot figure out what the problem is. What am I doing wrong?
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It was hotter after you installed it because it was able to draw more wattage. So, that simply means the benchmark was able to also draw more which will, obviously, add heat. So this is good. Really good. Simply put, the added cooling abilities allows to push the cpus output performance. You would only result in cooler temps if there was a way to cap the wattage usage to match that of the test done before you did the install. That would truly show if it lowers temps.
It can also be useful when overclocking than having motherboard ai or stock marketing junk, manual is a better option to handle better voltages and probably oc to 5.6 to 5.7ghz
No, this is not completely correct. Yes, it dissipated more power (watts) which is why it ran hotter. *BUT the whole idea of this frame is to keep the CPU cooler.* So this is NOT good. This merely showed that the throttling of the CPU was slightly different between the two tests and the software gave a slight advantage to the aftermarket bracket by allowing it to run slightly hotter. I'm willing to bet that if he ran many tests in both before and after configurations and averaged the results out, there would be little to no difference. The biggest factor by far was the overall thermal setup - actual cooler used plus thermal conductivity of the thermal compound.
I do agree with the your last part. The only true comparison is to have both tests dissipate the same amount of power and measure the final temperature difference, if any.
In theory, if this frame was part of the overall cooling frame (e.g. thermal conductive paste between frame and CPU) then the added mass of the new thermal frame would add a tiny bit to the overall heat dissipation. But, then, the original steel bracket would have also added to the overall heat dissipation as well. However, Aluminum makes a better thermal conductor.
@@bigdog8008this is an anti-bending correction frame, not an anti-heating frame 😂😂😂
does it make any difference in gaming ? will u get a higher framerate??
@@redclaw72666 manual oc is NOT better on amd, intels do not have a quick response clock gen like ryzen has, so them constantly running at max clock but reduced bus is ok, but amds cant reduze IF clock, which is why a manual oc´d ryzen will chunk power.
I have this for my system running an 13700k. It's crazy how a little $12 device can make a huge difference in temps and performance.
Same CPU with the same bracket, you are correct on your evaluation.
Which temps are you seeing and with what cooler, if you don't mind
@@valensi1988 decrease like 5-10c
Does i really?
@@mass-1128 it does
Tighten the screws in a X pattern
use impact gun
@@donloder1 lmao that'll be 6 uggaduggahs a corner
@@02honeydew This made me cry in laughter haha.
@@TheBURBAN111 lmao
He doesnt want to.
I've got the Ryzen 7 7700X. I had some weird temperature issues early on. I was just using the standard bracket to lock down the cpu. First couple applications had the cpu hitting the 95 degree mark under any multicore type of load. I saw the AM5 bracket and went with it as it also works as a way of blocking thermal paste from getting to the parts on the pcb. I hadn't even considered the IHS bending. The thing fixed my temps. I definitely recommend that people consider swapping the standard bracket off their AM5 boards.
You should probably still not consider the IHS bending, because it's not doing that, if it was nothing short of bending it back flat would fix it. What is happening is the ILM is too long for a single arm ILM to keep equal pressure on both sides of the IHS so it's allowing the chip to sit unevenly in the socket. Which is why these contact frames actually work.
The contact frame, aside from providing a secure and even mount for the CPU, also provides *more Aluminum MASS that helps to further bleed heat from being connected to the IHS.*
Yes but there is no paste in between the IHS and the frame, so the contact is not optimal
Yes I have a same theory that the contact frame also functions as an "extended" IHS since its also made of metal
@@simonb.8868depends on you base for the cooler and how you apply the thermal paste or graphite pad.
its a worthwhile upgrade to mitigate bending in the long term. the stock ilm has been shown to bend the cpu, keep it mounted for years and countless heat cycles it could become permanent. either frame will prevent this. i have the thermalright installed in 13900k, fast and easy install, with a bit more saftey built in over the thermal grizzly frame.
DO NOT cinch down the screws, two finger tight only and stop when the screws stops turning, make sure all four are equal, gradually tighten opposite corners a bit at a time. If you're worried about the screws backing out get a threadlock stick and apply to the end of the screw (you could use liquid too but the stick is easier)
Performance of the Thermalright and Thermal Grizzley frames are basically the same except the Thermalright frame is much easier to install. The Thermalright frame sits flush with the MB and the Thermal Grizzley frame floats, with the Thremalright frame you just stop when the screws stop where with the Thermal Grizzley one you have to fiddle with screw tension (ideally use a torque controlled screwdriver).
If you use acetone to clean the CPU don't get it on the plastic "feet" on the ends of the Thermalright frame it will attack the plastic and the adhesive that is used to attach them to the frame.
no way in hell the thermalgrizzly is the same, precision machining is not possible at the 10 bucks price, also the floating is a must.
@@JohnSmith-pn2vlgamers nexus tested and they do perform the same. Thermalright has greater variance in machining precision but not enough to effect thermals
dude wth are doing using acetone anywhere near a motherboard or CPU? even the vapour will depolymerise (i.e. molecularly disintegrate) polycarbonate or ABS. The electrical insulation lamination on PCBs is often PC. There are ABS and PC plastic components across your motherboard and also on the case. Even the shroud on your GPU is made from PC/ABS. You are literally molecularly disintegrating your entire PC. Plus it's flammable, toxic, volatile and a respiratory system irritant.
Use 99% isopropyl alcohol as used and recommended by the manufacturer.
@@Cwronaga216 They made up for that with a better design. In the end they both perform the same.
Was using default type of the frame for my 12600k and it actually stopped working after ~ 1 year. It occurred my CPU bent A LOT and was way too kind of curvy. So, basically, there was no contact between CPU and the socket. I recommend everybody to purchase this 10$ thing, it will save much more
Does your CPU start working again after installing the bracket ? or you had to buy a new one CPU ?
Would like to know too.
There was once I release the lever, it skip off my finger because the strength of the lever is quite strong, the cpu jump up a bit, rest on a few pins and cause the pins to bent. I'm so lucky to bend it back to position. I feel that from now on, the socket should follow this type of design. The spring loaded lever is too strong, there is a chance it can skip off the finger because of the curve in/out way of tightening. The spring is shiny stainless steel that made the surface slippery off the finger of the curve in/out way of tightening and release. Now I always place one hand fingers to stop the rectangle metal from spring out that lead the cpu outward force jumping out while release the lever.
I have it for the am5 7950x. I knew while purchasing that it won't do much for the temps, maybe 1° here and there. But it's a life saver if you will be constantly changing or removing the cooler. I was waiting on my case, then I knew I would be going custom loop. So it made sense for me buying this. Bought it straight away when I purchased the CPU.
Are If you are like me you might just buy one because having things nice and tidy just makes you feel smarter. I'm not moving CPUs from systems but I could see a lot of value in this even If it is mostly aesthetic for long-term durability. If you have to spend extra to make your system last longer well it's worth it.
@@kissofthecobra3761 keeping it tidy 100%. Even if you are taking the cooler off once every year (which you should always change your themal paste at least a year), it's worth it. It just keeps the whole CPU clean. I don't think it does anything for durability, at least for amd cpus, the whole die is square so it evenly spreads the pressure, unlike intels. Same for the thermals. Doesn't do anything.
Got this same exact part for my build (13900k) and it has been a lifesaver, paired with the lt720 aio from deepcool I’ve been able to OC to 6ghz and I’ve never throttled and even under full load for sustained periods I never get higher than 93C temp. Aesthetically (even though you can’t see it once the aio is mounted) it looks better on the motherboard than the default frame too lol.
yes full contact on cpu is best thing
6GHz on AIO? Kudos to you bro.
What thermal paste you're using?
I have bought 13900k, lt720, and now looking at contact frames. 6 Ghz and maximum temp are 93 C, just wow. How is that possible? Is it related to the OC settings? What was your stock results?
@@fatihcicek1858 100c surely as stock ilm's are trash ones
Dude, you totally hit the things i considering about a hypothetical PC. Thank you so much
He is just always very late compared to the rest of TH-cam lol!
The Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame is manufactured and produced in Germany and it has lower tolerances than the one from Thermalright. I am using the one from Thermalright, because the Thermal Grizzly Contact Frame wasn't available, when i needed it. The Mounting is also slightly different - Gamers Nexus did a good Video about it.
Edit: I am using an i5 13600k slightly overclocked to 5.4 on the P-Cores, 4.4 on the E-Cores and 4.9 on the Cache with a fixed voltage of 1.26V (equal to stock under load). In my case, i got a 9°C improvement in liquid temperature. The CPU itself was 15°C cooler than before. Testet in Cinebench R23 with a warming up time of 20 minutes and a 30 minute test run - my loop has about 450 to 500ml of coolant and a single 360mm radiator.
this, availability is a bih most of the times i swear. i can barely get my hands on an arctic aio. had to buy it from an unreviewed item online, glad the seller delivered.
And so i opted for thermalright as well.
bro i read it as thermal glizzy frame 💀💀💀💀💀💀💀
The Thermalright frame is much easier to install that was enough for me. If you're going to make a better solution to Intel's over engineered jank then don't replace it with more over engineered jank. (but then the Thermal Grizzley one is german designed and germans are all about over engineered jank)
@@pendrive4real Thermalg rizz ly
No way it's stable at 1.26v. Try compling the shaders on Last of Us 1. It's gonna crash every 20 seconds. That was my experience until I raised the voltage
My temps in cinebench r23 went from above 100C with 27k score to 75C with 30k score. I used the Thermal Grizzly contact frame with my 13700k.
Bravo man! This frame, no matter is a little bit tricky to install, must be DeFacto standard! 25% is a Huge difference!
what cooler are you using?
Lol i get 70c in cinebench without this
Good stuff but, you also must have done other things in conjuction as, 25 degrees is way too high of a number for it to only be reflective of a plate. Somewhere between 6-12C is what these plates will give you.
@@potvinsuks8730 If you get unlucky with a particular curved CPU and a cooler curved the other way, this can very much be possible due to bad contact. Also, could have tightened up the screws or changed thermal paste application.
10:22 Yes, that's perfect.
Screws and bolts are tightened to a specific torque spec as a mechanical protect against vibration unscrewing or unbolting the fastener. Vibration isn't enough in a PC case to have to worry about that.
I probably didn't really need with my new 13600 build; but for $10 I figured why not? It certainly won't hurt anything.
Late reply, but youll be able to reuse it when and if you upgrade to a 13700/13900 or 14 series as well : )
If you are already hitting 330 watts on a 13900k without the contact frame, then your CPU is fine and the contact frame won't do much. The contact frame does wonders when your CPU already hits 100c and throttles at 220 to 250 watts.
I still recommend if you plan to keep your current setup for a long time.
At least you will have even pressure on your chip for how many years you decide to not upgrade.
@@csguak I've had my 12900k from day one without a frame, it works just as good as the first one. Not noticed any difference with temps
its auto vcore causing that power usage... im getting 42k points at 305w...
I use this with an i7-12700k and my temps went down by 7-10 Celsius compared to what it originally was. Also, I plan on using the same bracket for an i7-13700k
This Frame 100% works. The Thing is, if your CPU is overheating _heavily_ already, because there is no power limit and you did not do any undervolting, it's hard to see the benefit so easily, since no power-limit means only the temperature is the limit. Which in this case is tjMax 100°C. I have close to 42k with undervolt without power limit on air cooling in Cinebench R23 Multicore. Or 41k with 253W Power Limit.
You didn't even say what CPU you have? Amd or Intel?
@@Slicktune I guess its a 13900K/KF
@@Slicktune well if Power limit max is 253w that intel spec limit for a 13900k
That's when you get a direct-die mounting frame.
I mean the Intel variant. And given example is a 13900K since thats the one showcased in this video.👌
yeah and what they don't tell you is that it kills the warranty of your motherboard so that little $10 object can turn into what ever the price of your motherboard is to pay again if you ever have an issue with it, better be safe than sorry, won't put my warranty at risk for 5 fps more and 10 degress cooler lol
as a guy who had Z690 and i7-13700KF without frame and then installed frame - I can tell buying this frame is a MUST, its not even a question. In my situation difference was so big and obvious. It stopped thermal throttling, temperatures become more stable (they dont jump 70 to 90C), and overall lower idle temps
Love these videos!! 😤
I previously had the Lian Li Galahad 240mm aio w/ stock fans on my 13700k, and it would get around 84-87c on r23 while never passing 74c while gaming
Changed to the MSI MEG Coreliquid S280mm aio w/ 2 140mm Silent Wing Pro fans, and that exact same contact frame. On r23 it wouldn't pass 74c, and while gaming it wouldn't pass 64c.
My custom fan curve was the same for both, as well as the CPU undervolt.
1-2°C actually can be ignored when considering margin of error. Its just 1% increase and most people ignore change upto 5%. So this frame increased your performance while keeping temps same. Totally worth it.
Room was allso 1 c hotter
Bought this at lanch for my 13700K and it made an immediate difference and it was so, so cheap....dropped temps and allowed for more headroom. It actually works!
The second test is 1 degree C higher because it was running 13 seconds longer, as you said. More time, more heat during the test. I just hope that bracket doesn't trap heat on the sides of the CPU. Given the temperature, I think it would be ideal if the bracket was an additional heatsink dissipating the heat from the sides of the CPU. Additional passive cooling combined with good case ventilation. Would love to see a test run then.
I have 13700k i undervolt just -1.000 on bios and now i have max temperature 85 on stress test i think undervolting is helping more
@@hovighovig608 Did that affect performance?
@@THE-X-Force yes just undervolt it now i have max temp on stresstest 84c in games max 73 like nfs unbound
@@hovighovig608 OK but I'm asking if that affected performance as in .. benchmarks .. frames per second .. etc. Sorry.
@@THE-X-Force Month later so not sure how usefull this is, but i have the 13700k. My pc kept overheating to 100C, which made certain games crash under heavy load. Simply turning off CPU Game Boost in Bios completely solved it, and max is now around 85C, no more crashes. I also havent really noticed any difference, but dont have any stats to back that up
Thanks for the review! Great one! Would you mind testing the AM5 model aswell? Watching along the video I was hoping for the AM5 version benchmarks and also your thoughts on wether it could damage some of the components as they're outside the IHS unlike the Intel CPUs
^^ review link fro the am5 doesnt do much considering the am5 was more for thermal paste problem than warping problem like the intel has
It won't damage anything and it's better than original SAM due to it applying even pressure
Hopefully u already know this for 13th gens, but with the high temps I changed the incoming voltage by using the bios settings. There is different voltage profiles and I went to the 4th one down and I get higher speeds and the temperature stays under 75degrees. No more thermal throttle which allowed me to keep on my highest cpu clocks…
I tried 6 other volt profiles and tested each one but it will vary depending on ur cpu…
I am now able to use air cooling on my 13900k and I got 42000 on my last 10 min test.
There are lots of videos on it now but I’m wondering why he isn’t doing that for any of his videos….
I hope he can do a video on his process if he does do it cause then it will help a lot more ppl.
Thank you for all ur hard work! It doesn’t go unnoticed! Lol
could you please share your voltage settings?
@@petbalogh erm i doubt he is staying under 75c with 42k score... my 13900kf cant do that with the bracket and an undervolt... i hit nearly 43k with an oc... 5.9 on 2 cores rest sit at 5.6... and 4.5 on e cores..
@@TheBURBAN111 yes, you are right. So can you please tell me your settings? :)
I absolutely love this thing. Brought my temps down by 5-8 degrees Celsius. Now when stress testing my 13700K its max is 90 instead of 95, too.
Oh!!! I invested in one when I built my PC last August and have to say my temp is often at max 50 degree unless I am testing my system it will peak at 81 degree. It idles around 30 degrees most of the time. I am using a 12700K, Noctua NH -D15 Chromax. Black and BeQuiet Silent wings 3.
Yesss.
With my new PC using this contact frame, works perfecly... No overthermal issues.
For the price, every cent is properly waist.
Nice Channel, you are in the right way.
Cheers my friend.
Thank you very much for this. I didn't even know these existed until I found out on a Reddit forum earlier today. It makes me wonder what other cool, very beneficial components are out there that consumers may not be aware of. Maybe it's something to consider making a video about; a roundup of lesser known but useful computer components. Cheers.
I did install one yesterday, when I installed my 13700KF, and it not only makes your CPU about 3 degrees cooler, in conjunction with a Peerless 120 the temps can only hit thermal throttling after 3 minutes of torture. My temperatures have come down to 28-30 degrees, depending on the measure point. Before, they were 32-36 on average. For those skeptical, think about the investment in your gear. My wattage was around 248 before it started throttling.
As I'll soon be running a 7800X3D inside an ITX case with a LP air cooler, I'll take every advantage I can get, particularly since the contact frame seems to make contact at more points on the IHS, plus have the air blowing directly on the contact frame which will hopefully mean more heat dissipation.
Great video! Sometimes it's the simple things that can equate to good gains
Update? :)
so?
Nice informative video
Before I installed this to my brother's 12th gen i7 with some cooler master cpu cooler. Ran r23, peaked 101c. After, 60c!!! This product is amazing!
I noticed you was talking about bending the CPU, and just recently done a PC upgrade using the Z690 itx m-board with the Intel i9-13900 CPU, in the Asus manual it does say to remove that clear plastic tube that is over the arm that locks down the cover plate for the CPU, and in this video it looks like you still have the shipping cover tube still on the locking arm / lever.
did you know about removing it? i just caught it by chance and so glad i read the manual even for simple things i have done many times in the past.. hope this helps many PC builders out..
Very good presentation. 👍
The only thing I could mention is that we don't know for how long you were using your cooler with the thermal paste before you install the contact frame.
I mean, maybe, you got better results because of applying new thermal paste. In any case, I find this product and its idea that represents great! 👌Thank you for sharing this with us.
Is this TZAG from Sharkyextreme? I was just thinking about your blue PC from back in the day!
The IHS is not bending, the single arm ILM frame is not strong enough to keep pressure on both sides of the CPU causing it to not sit as flat as needed for good cooler contact. If your IHS was bending a contact frame wouldn't solve that issue, the CPU would still be uneven.
This also fixes some problems with heavier dual tower air coolers and certain mobos bending the socket making the ILM frame issue even more pronounced. I've seen 5-10c documented improvements with watercooling running the same voltages and clocks but upwards of 15c cooler temps when using a heavy dual tower air cooler and the contact frame.
In my humble opinion I think you should have test it with PL2 253W so that we can see a clear temperature difference.
I've been running this exact frame for over two years, I can't tell any difference on my 12600k but I like the way it mounts the cpu.
Using this, works perfectly. Thick thermal paste will give you better results than thinner thermal paste.
it's more like additional surface area than anti-bend which helps with temps. the pressure to the CPU is little as the pressure is just enough for the mobo pins to contact securely to the CPU. The IHS is also more than thick enough for that pressure. If there is even bending, it will happen on the vertical axis of the CPU, increasing pressure to the center.
You haven't thought this through properly. In any event, there are YT vids showing the deformation, measured using very accurate equipment.
Best investment have ever made for my 13700kf temps have been brilliant.
Excellent video, I'm in the middle of filming mine right now. Same CPU & motherboard but w/ the Artice Liquid Freezer II 360. will tweet you the results.
Congratulations, excellent presentation !!
Cool review. Ill be investing on these contact frames on my next build 😀
I have 14700KF CPU and it doesn't bend. I checked. It fits really well in a socket, no big pressure. Actually I bought bracket but I didn't need to use it. And my temperatures are pretty low, no need to get lower, since I don't boost over 5,7/4,5GHz
Got this Thermalright contact frame for a NUC12 compute element a couple months back and it actually reduced temps by around 10°. Initially I wanted to by the Thermal Grizzly one, but the price of the Thermalright was so low, it was worth trying out.
I am presently using the Thermalright - I saw an 8degree Celsius reduction on my 13700k
Thermalright - Mass Production item, flatness changes from bracket to bracket. IE one side could be .5 or 1 and 2 mm then a third side.
Thermal Grizzley - custom built, consistent tolerance across all brackets. More consistence fitting and temperatures.
Hardly.
A flat piece of glass and a calipers will easily tell you if it is off at all.
I have the jungle leopard $9 one and it is perfectly even in dimensions. It is not Wang Choo making these on a 1940 milling machine while drinking rice wine, these things are being spit out on a decent cnc mill.
Thanks for effort and video, I think every motherboard should just have this period. Imo. Long run being the key as you said.
I agree 100%
Insane insane great explanation sir.
Very very useful. Thanks a lot. Keep it up.
PC industry need you. You are the only best professional PC enthusiast for creators.
Great sir. Great.
I'm glad I found out about this while waiting for my 14700K to be delivered. No idea why Amazon is taking so long to ship the damn thing. But, still this is very cool!
I bought these for every AM5 build to hopefully help with thermalpaste and maybe even better temps. At only $9 it was a small additional price. I did also buy Noctua's offset kits.
Do the ofset brackets only work with noctua coolers?
Quick question,you need something additional for the noctua offset kits,right? I got them and I can’t mount my cpu cooler on them
This tiny thing works really well for me, i squish all my set all the time, and temps never go more the 73°C, and thats the top beacause it doesnt keep that top, avg its about 66°-70°, im very happy.
I'm using the am5 frame with an arctic freezer 360. Very good quality too.
New Kraken AIO series were just lunched today! Kraken Elite 360mm (new name for Kraken Z series) is one of them. Can you please test it on your 13900K and show us whether EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 or this new Kraken Elite 360mm is better at cooling. Thank you :)
Thanks for the video!
awesome video, man, thanks for the info!
Why skip the AM5 results?
heck yeah im getting this on my rig every thing i keep figuring out i need to do for my upgrade u got a video on haha!
Have you lapped a cpu? id love to try that one day but its hard to get myself to sand my cpu down lol .-.
One thing missed, put some heat sink past onto the new frame, the part that will make contact with the copper plate on the bottom of your cooler.
What I did was count the threads poking up through the back plate in order to insure even pressure.
Thermalright is GOATED, in bang for the buck they have no competition
I got a 13900k last week and I already can tell it thermal throttles no matter what load it's under and there's one or two AIO that are 360mm that can just barely keep that at 99%... but even with this contact frame (which it has already been proven you can bend and file down the contact points on the stock mount and get the same results.
I also suggest getting the kryonaut extreme thermal paste, I haven't gotten my 360 aio yet but just the paste alone dropped my 240 aio temps by about 5c... which really surprised me honestly.
I'm note sure if you mentioned thermal throttling either, but the core temps were at 100C so regardless, the package will be at 100C... so you're better off ignoring that because without the frame it's going to do the same thing, and it's going to throttle it down to reasonable temps... it's insane... i heard the 14900k was slightly better but I cba to buy the same processor for 1-2 degrees improvement.
That being said... the point of having a faster processor is better if you are in 4k, because at 4k, you use less cpu than at 1440 or 1080p, because at 1080p you can reach a frame cap in some games that... admittedly is pointless.
My 14700K was thermal throttling (100°C+) under full load with the recommended 253W PLs. However, after undervolting and installing the Thermalright contact frame, it now reaches max temps of 85-90°C (on just one or two cores - the rest run cooler) with no PLs whatsoever. With my own PLs in place (225W flat; I find anything above to result in diminishing returns) and two core clocks raised by a ratio or two, my max temps never exceed 85°C under full load.
For what it's worth, I'm using an air cooler (Thermalright FS 140 V3) and the standard TF7 paste that came with the contact frame. I imagine I may be able to lower the temps even further (5-10°C perhaps) with some form of water-cooling, but I'm not in a hurry to do so as things stand.
IMO, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to get your 13900K running at reasonable temps (stock). I think it's just a case of identifying the crux of the thermal issue and resolving it. In my example, it was poor contact between the CPU and cooler (something I might have gotten away with on a lower wattage CPU, but these chips require additional precision and attention when cooling).
TL;DR: persevere with trying to reduce the temps, and good luck.
This is the nicest and most easiest video to understand of what this modification is for the Intel platform I'm getting an Intel 12400F and I would assume you don't really need it for the lower-end CPUs.
I wouldn't, I'd say i7+ :)
@theTechNotice yeah I'm excited to get mine pretty close to 12600k but half the price
yeah I have used them and I like how easy it is to install. I had an issue with a build using intel's mechanism and had to swap one of these Thermalright's frame but I had issues from the beginning trying to get the system stable overall. RMA my MB will see what happens
Any problems with mb wantarry using those? Did they even bother asking?
@@Wa11breaker no they never even asked
@@rmorenberg Thanks! Guess I don't need to worry about heat if I get a 13th gen!
@@Wa11breaker just make sure to apply the thermal paste properly
Good benchmarks and results with opinions 🙂
its actually good that is higher that means is a more uniform distribution of heat which lets the sensor peak higher i think
There is a huge misunderstanding on your part! you misunderstood the use of that product! in the 12th generation of intel chips, now the motherboard is faulty, it is bent in the chipset part! and the effect of this product is to prevent the motherboard from being curved in the chipset. When the motherboard is bent, the chipset heatsink will not be good, leading to the chipset getting hot! Therefore, the main effect of this product is to prevent curvature in the chipset part of the motherboard, not to help reduce the temperature of the chipset! I personally find this product very convenient because when using it, applying thermal paste will be a lot easier!
U r doing greater greater greater ever youtuber did
You might cover this, I have not gotten that far into your video just yet, however I know for a fact that the one you have bottoms out. I know as I installed one on my own rig. It was last gens CPU for Intel on my MSI Tomahawk Z690 board. Thermal Grizzly does not. What I am saying is that when you crank down Thermal Rights you bottom it out. It actually touches the board. I don't believe Thermal Grizzly does this. You have to work the frame around and have no reference when the pressure is equal and correct around the sides. The Thermal Right takes the worry about a tilted frame. I suppose you can still tilt it, however it you look at the bottom and it is equal all the way around then I guess you did okay. My rig posted for me with no problems. No problems with memory or anything else. I have heard where you can mess up your post if the frame is uneven.
Yeah I've gotten a 13700K, and I used this exact frame and MX6 paste with a DeepCool HK620. I did have to lower the voltage of my CPU to 1,225V to prevent it from thermal throttling.
Now at 100% load it goes to 96 degrees max and I get a CineBench score of 30.166 points
Tempting. I might do the same once I learn how lol
the LGA1700 Contact Frame works, I have it on my 13700K
There are no thermal problems with Risen and there are no thermal benefits from using this frame. This frame is purely for protection from thermal paste. It also looks cool.
Fun fact: Thermalright sold these for $5 before Roman developed his own.
🤦😬
it really work! i m using it on my 13900ks
It should be noted that the difference is not that huge if the CPU is already bent. So before you build a new PC remember to use this. Steve from GN said this.
Metals don't work that way, you have to bend copper a certain amount before plastic deformation occurs otherwise it springs back and the amount of bending going on isn't even close to enough for that to happen. I checked mine with an engineering straight edge and a light and there was no permanent bending. Temps went down by 9C~10C after installation.
@@atomicskull6405 So your saying GN and Der Bauer are wrong?
@@masterdftw4983 If they said that a few hundredth of a millimeter of deflection was enough to cause permanent deformation in copper then yes I'm saying they are wrong. Because copper does not do that. That amount of deflection is not even close to enough to cause plastic deformation in copper. I will trust what the engineering books say (and my own observation with a machined straight edge) over some guy on youtube.
It's interesting. I hope thermalight release a bracket for AM4.
HIgher clock speeds generate more heat, so perhaps by being able to achieve higher clock speeds with the THermalright plate accounts for the slightly higher temps.
is this safe (maybe even safer than normal) to use this with liquid metal??
kinda silly on the 12th and 13th gen but it does work alot from my i5-12400 on my sis and i7-13700 on my pc, really help alot
i dont understand the need im running a 12900ks and never see temps above 60 on full load with a AIO, but if fell like if your buying a higher end processor you can get a AIO
Using the same part in my new build. Plus the bracket they have on the back of the board to mount the cooler
So what's the best AIO for the 13900k? I'm in the process of building a new PC. I'm still running an i7-6700k... lol! I play games and also perform Blender Renders along with Substance Stager/Painter here and there. I'll get a contact frame as well, but if the AIO makes the biggest difference, then which AIO is currently the best for this CPU? Currently limited to a 360mm AIO.
Do you have a recent video that covers this already?
Super helpful! Thanks, buddy. I ordered one to tweak my Arc + i9-13th Gen Build.
The question is also, if we reduce the temperature because of this frame, because it has contact with the heathspreader?...in essence, we increase the thermal mass and surface area of the heathspreader. So it is in our interest that there is not only good mechanical contact between them, but also thermal contact. It would be interesting to see how cold the temperatures would be if you applied an ultra-thin layer of thermal paste to the surfaces where the frame and the heat spreader touch or where the frame presses on the heathspreader.
In that sense, these frames are poorly constructed. Basically, in addition to mechanical rigidity, you should also have as much surface area as possible. I'll try it on my new AM5 system...just a little...a little bit of thermal paste on the contacts of the heatsspreader and the frame can't hurt...just the application should be really minimal, and rather on the frame than on the processor when it's already in the socket ...just less possibility of "accident".
Hi there Tech Notice. When I received my PC with a new i9 12900ks I instantly decided to remove the factory thermal paste and use my own. When I looked at the waterblock and the CPU contact points I immediately noticed the way the thermal paste was pushed to the sides. I have photos of both the water block and the CPU showing this. Let me know if you would like me to send them to you? It was very obvious and pretty disturbing to see so I decided to do some research on this and found the contact frames. After installing the frame I noticed about a 10 degree drop in temperature. After that I undervolted all the cores individually .120 volts. After that I ran cinebench and the score increased significantly similar to yours, but what I noticed more was that it now dropped 15 degrees and stopped throttling completely. It wouldn't go higher then 92 degrees on max load. For me it was a great experience, especially undervolting as many have suggested. It was a bit sad to see Intel excepted this cpu functioning this way knowing very well people would notice it. They claim the CPU runs within specs as is. Even though it is not optimal. I love the Tron lights on the back wall, where did you get them? Peace!
13th Gen is Hungry power system too bro. So I will never switch to Intel. Gonna stick to AMD Forever :)
@@davidsanagustine9922 Respect for AMD! My last rig had an AMD FX 8350 from 2012 running with a GTX 1070 and it was a beast until I sold it in 2018 because I needed cash to move. I stopped building for a while until I was offered this rig 8 months ago for $1750 with original receipt which was a deal back them. Ubuypower i9 12900ks (w/ contact frame) RTX 3090ti and 32gb 5200 ram with all the bells and whistles. He paid $4200 for it 4 months before. If I build another in the future I may go AMD as long as it doesn't blow up like some are recently. For me its bang for the buck not the manufacture. Enjoy!!
"Tech Notice", why did you use 420mm Arctic Freezer as your cooler for your new 13900K rig when you said EK-Nucleus "Lux" CR360 is even better?
Yes used the Arctic, coz it was half installed, still working and it's quieter :)
@@theTechNotice oh, I see. But you still recommend EK-Nucleus Lux, only that it's louder? And what do you mean by "half installed"? :D
Hi. I just bought the Intel Core i5-13600KF. Should I get this?
Not only Thermalright frame is much cheaper, but it also has superior pressure distribution to TG one, making it a better performer. Makes you think what the hell were they thinking...
Its crazy how high auto vcore is on the 13900k... got mine down to 1.25 from 1.43... dropped my r23 temps by 20c and kept the same performance... hell im now at 5.9 on 2 cores and 5.6 on the rest with a score of 42k and still doesn't require 1.43v like default runs cooler as well.
The auto vcore is set compatible with any CPU, to avoid any instability, of course, it has a higher voltage. That is why players like us will tweak the settings to better match our hardware. But I am curious what your sp/ biscuit score is for your CPU, based on your information, it seems like a very good one.
Of course the biggest different would be the cooler, liquid has less pressure on the plate however if you have cheap on 150$ and stick to air cooling that's a big win.
I'm using the cheaper Thermalright which is simple because you tighten down fully, but using the Thermal Grizzly you can over-tighten and damage the CPU / CPU Pins.
I've had zero issues with my Thermalright CPU bracket and my temps are about 5°C cooler on my i9-13900K.
I think they used cheaper materials than thermal grizzly did. Just a thought
Hopefully it will be available for the AM4 soon.
No need
It’s insane that thousands of people are undervolting their CPU’s just to cool it better thinking it has no repercussions.
Not as easy to install as it looks imho. TURN SLOW with a little pressure on cpu at all times to prevent it from moving. Only like approximately 2 rotations needed for the first screw to become so tight that it tilts and rotates the processor + contact frame out of the socket (Luckily no damage to pins). Also you need to install the backplate of the cooler to hold the cpu backplate to the board. So many videos make no mention of this... its the act of rotating the screws counter-clockwise until they click that can cause it to move. When that happens, you gotta find a magnetic screwdriver to lift the screws out so you can peak through the holes and re-align the board with the backplate. Also be mindful of SMD's on the back of the mobo when you put it down. An issue that was specific to me is one of the mobo screws was slightly deformed... it wouldn't let go of the included wrench without a lot of wiggling or tremendous force (to the point of wanting to rip out of the board unless i turned it down 1 and 1/4 times), and it wouldn't click if i turned it counter-clockwise. I had no choice but to just turn all the screws until they just started to tighten and then used a torque screwdriver to finish up the torque pattern (8-9 in-lb worked for me to approximate hand-tightening... for comparison, since no manufacturer of these contact frames wants to specify a torque value, the ThreadRipper processors come with a torque screwdriver that is set to 13 in-lb).
Ryzen contact frame is much more niche. It isn’t addressing any socket clamp bending. It’s helping you mount a cooler with a direct die delid setup.
Just put a small amount of thermal paste in center, don’t spread it around.
Please help!
I watched your videos on ProArt systems and contact frames and decided to use one on my first build, but have run into a problem.
I bought a ProArt PA602 case, a ProArt LC 420 AIO cooler, and a ProArt Z790 motherboard with an Intel 14900KF processor housed in a Thermal Grizzly contact frame, and tried to put them together. Assembly went normally until I tried to install the waterblock/pump head onto the CPU.
I used the hex-styled standoffs labeled for an LG1700, as per the instructions, and just lightly seated them onto the motherboard, not over-tightening. The Thermal Grizzly contact frame is absolutely not touching or otherwise interfering with the motherboard or CPU fitment. The standoff screws seem not long enough with the included Intel-style backing plate to give any thread to install the thumbscrew caps which fasten down the waterblock/pumphead. There is a gap left beneath the AIO mounting bracket of just about the size I would expect to give enough thread for the thumbscrew caps, if only the waterblock copper face were a bit shorter in height. When settling the waterblock onto the CPU, the tip of each standoff screw just barely comes flush with the outside/top of the waterblock mounting bracket, leaving no thread to fasten them on at all.
I've redone this from scratch twice now, carefully rechecking everything I did, and cannot figure out what the problem is. What am I doing wrong?