I recently got this monitor and it totally blew my mind. Everything looks 10X better than on my older 27" 1440p monitor. The auto dimming is not a dealbreaker for me as I prefer lower brightness.
To get the OLED Pixel refresh, you do need to switch the panel off with the remote control. The refresh cycle takes 20s to 60s and then you'll hear a relay click when the cycle has finished. The LG OLED has a similar power-down refresh cycle, but it's more discreet with the LG, as the LG requires a "Magic Packet" or WoL command to be sent, and there's more LG firmware/software that kicks in when the HDMI inputs have no signal i.e. "Art/Gallery Mode" also shuts down the TV when it's been on for too long. I have 1000+ hours on the FO48U , and yes, you'll get burn-in within 50-100 odd hours if you don't shut the FO48U down via the remote control.Gigabyte should have, *should* have been built in a pixel refresh on deep sleep, but for whatever reason, it does not work if you have a Displayport/HDMI Sleep mode or the PC/device sends power-off via HDMI CEC either. There's also a nice "OSD" warning that doesn't go away either if you shut the panel down via the remote. IDK. If I paid full price, I would definitely have been annoyed, but, it's new tech. And it was less than half the price of a 55" LG C1/C2.
There is also a hack to go into service mode, which holds standard lighting in on / standby mode. It resets in full power off mode but if you keep in standby it holds brightness
The auto brightness limiter on the C series (at least my C9) is not NEARLY that aggressive. Trying out the white window test, it doesn't change anything. Though I use black themes as often as I can to save the screen and the fact that it's so freakin' bright. I think Gigabyte did this because it's supposed to be "a monitor" but it doesn't matter, the tech is mature enough that burn in is negatable. As for burn in on your panel, every four hours the panel is on (at least on LG) after it is off it will "clean" the screen. I'm guessing this didn't happen because that's crazy. 6K hours on my C9 OLED monitor so far and it's absolutely fine. There just is no real reason not to get an LG C-series display for a monitor, hell they probably made this display for them too before Gigabyte botched it, but with the quality and burn in, I'm beginning to think this wouldn't be anywhere near their quality standards.
I watched a lot reviews about this display and you are the only one pointing out the flaws. It is a lot cheaper right now at around 800€ than the QD OLEDS displays from Alienware. That is why i thought about buying it.
@@bill770 I did the same! Mine will be here Monday and I'm excited to pop my OLED cherry. Just worried about the burn in risks using this as my daily driver for my PC.
I’ve had it for a few days now and the auto dimming feature is such a non issue that I haven’t even noticed it once tbh. Panel protection hasn’t came up either, I play for 4 hours or so a day and I simply turn the monitor off with the remote when I’m done, it says “panel protection in progress” the light on the monitor blinks for about 5 minutes and it’s done lol
Just get a LG C series. I'm Still 110% happy with my C9. Full speed HDMI 2.1, it's really ahead of it's time. It does have a brightness limiter like this one, but it's MUCH less aggressive and doesn't screw with movies or games, mostly a static picture thing.
Hello, I also ordered the product. Are you satisfied with the product now? Are there any problems (burning, shadow, etc.)? What kind of product is it in general? I will use it for games and movies for an average of 4-5 hours, some days I will use it less. Do you think I made the right decision by purchasing the product?
Own this montior for one month. By far and wide best monitor I've ever owned. It's so versatile, so clear, so crisp and so responsive. The burnin is a thing, a very minor thing, only noticable during completely black or dark dark gray backgrounds nobody uses, and you can throw 4 27" displays side by side for double the cost and still have to deal with the stand architecture, cables, power, and bezels and screw that. This monitor is awesome and no amount of nit picking by the reviewer is going to change that. Does the screen reduce the brightness when you full screen something, yeah, but looking into the sun is dangerous and it is uncomfortable looking full on into a bright white monitor when you just woke up. The only thing I wish was different, were USB ports along the front or both sides. As it stands you get two on the left side, and I ordered extenders to reach my PC which is 4 feet away from the montior.
All the ports on the left side is bad design. Consider that nearly all desktop cases are designed with to be facing right, that means you'll either have to run the cables all the way behind the monitor (which the included cables are not long enough to do) or place the tower on the wrong side, either with the viewing panel facing the wall or cables running behind the tower. Would be much better if the ports were on the right or center.
@@Sotanaht01 I can't disagree, I have my PC located about 6 feet to the left of the monitor. To make everything reach I've invested in 4 USB-C 6' extender cables, total additional cost to me was about $30.
Kvm switch and usb c port that does video is amazing. For the price, its amazing. It is truly nitpicking here. The main competitors dont have a good amount ofbthe features here
i have this and the AW3423DWF. The picture looks much better on the FO48U. The glossy screen on the FO48U is way glossier than the AW3423DWF and makes a huge difference I guess.
@techteamGB just curious, what input were you using? according to the calculator on LTT forum, 4k 120hz 10bit requires 32Gbps which is much higher than hdmi 2.1 can support at half bandwidth as you noted. Displayport 1.4 also can't support 120hz 4k at 10bit without compression. I would like to see you testing without 10bit mode turned on and without compression, and over USB-C (if it supports DP 2.0) . Also, as you know the computer & cable must also support DP 2.0 to actually achieve this ! extremely hard to do, and explains why you are getting terrible readings. DP 1.4 @ 120hz 8bit should work! I had a similar discovery when I found out 4k60 uncompressed isn't supported by hdmi 2.0
Most of his issues all you have to do is get it calibrated lol its not hard to realize that haha i never understood complaints like this. People don't understand oled it will clip due to its limitations people go oh its to bright yes it's because of its limitations it over does it and ita tone mapping chooses to clip instead of retain denial. This is why I like oled tvs because there tone mapping is usually much much better out of the box. Just grt this display calibrated and be happy. Everything he's mentioned here guys just know you can calibrated the issues out. So don't be scared of it lol
Hmm ... Tone Mapping is one of the more difficult things to get right on the FO48U, because Windows HDR is kind of broken. Instead, you will have to use the Gigabyte OSD HDR modes to get something like Tone Mapping to adjust the saturation/calibration points. It's ... possible/doable to create a new 3DLUT with DisplayCAL or other profile/calibration software, and adjust the HDR mode and TM via "software" option, but it isn't inherent in Windows to allow for a custom HDR tone curve to be applied for a particular game. This is where the LG C1/C2 beats *any* Monitor, but that's more because Windows HDR doesn't have those LUT features or adjustable HLG/HDR TM.
I'm guessing they either improved the adaptive brightness or your panel is defective. I have one of these, and it's not nearly as bad as you describe. Dragging a white file explorer window around, the dimming only noticeably kicks in when the window covers around 3/4ths of the screen, which I think is entirely reasonable and probably preferable. There also doesn't seem to be any noticeable delay to the dimming, the instant too much of the screen is white, it gets progressively dimmer as I expand the window further. I haven't really noticed any problem gaming on it Also I'm at 408 hours usage time, 0 image retention that I can detect. I am doing all I can to avoid it though, including turning the monitor off completely (which triggers the auto protection systems to run) and even using a black desktop background.
@@darrenfleming7901 Close to it at least. I just did some testing in paint with various grey color fills changing the luminosity value (higher lum=more white, lower lum=more black). I found that the dimming didn't kick in to any noticable degree even at full screen until around 200 (out of 255) lum, and it was still pretty slight until around 220. In games, I've never seen the auto dimming be an issue based on overall screen brightness. What I HAVE seen is that the screen may aggressively dim if you leave the same image with only very minor changes for ~30 seconds-1 minute. Something that can happen in some game menues that have minimal graphical changes (personally encountered it in Crusader Kings 3 when I was spending time creating a character or religion)
I actually hate how bright the brightest bright is usually. I play a lot of horror games, fps, rpg, etc, read books using this even. The gray bright is helpful for my eyes, which if your vision was 20/20, you'd probably appreciate better. Sincerely, someone who bought it for less money than your reccomendation.
I’ve watched a lot of reviews on TH-cam on this monitor and I get the good with the bad but after watching this review, I was hoping to hear something positive but no nothing as if you really don’t like this monitor. 😂 but many do like it
Great review, i already bought this at a discount (799$) and it is the cheapest OLED i could buy (also my first!) my main purpose for it is gaming and a little video viewing and minimal office work, so i guess i should be fine (i hope).
@@JustxLiving909 sadly not where i live :( i got it off Newegg and it cost me exactly 1054 USD with shipping, the C1 costs 1298 USD on my local electronics shop. and the C1 in the USA has different electricity voltage (100-120V) where i live is (220-240V) so it is not worth the buy even at 799$ for me.
I just got the monitor. I love the complete black. Text looks good. I think the high contrast, 1 ms response and 120hz is fine for text and productivity. It needs a large desk. I set it 32 inches from the chair. The reviewers overthinks this monitor. At 799 good value for money.
Most of the stuff in this video is very nit picky and 99% of people will love it and not even see the "problems" he points out. Except the stupid auto brightness/dimming thing you can't turn off, that "feature" sucks! It's literally almost a deal breaker. But i came here for the burn in part, which is terrible on mine cause I use the picture by picture mode for work from home + my personal pc. Also my panel reads 23 hours usage which is comical considering i use it 8-12 hours a day for the last 1.25 years. really sad about the burn in issues. The mode that fixes it when you turn it off doesn't reliably turn itself on unfortunately for me. I have to make sure to press the power button BEFORE my computer fully turns off when I shut down. Otherwise it doesn't seem to work. Which brings up another very annoying part of this monitor is you basically can't touch the menu if there's not a computer on. You can press the power button and it sounds like it is going to turn on but it doesn't stay on even if you're using the remote actively. I love this monitor's size and picture quality but I really wish it was a little better for the 1500$ i dropped on it :(
I much prefer the 16:9 aspect ratio not only for everyday use but for gaming as well. Ultrawide is way over rated in my opinion. I also prefer the larger screen size of around 50 inch on a deep desk. What we're seeing now is newer generation of 4k oled being used as a desktop. The next few years will be very interesting.
For a PS5 *Are the HDMI 2.1 Ports 24Gbps* *On the Gigabyte Aorus FO48U* *Able to Display Full 4K@120Hz +VRR Gaming?* Do you or does anyone know Of any other monitors similar to this that support Full HDMI 2.1 48 Gbps??
Other reviews did not agree with your measurements. Both rtings and tomshardware both measured it to be amazingly color accurate. I think something with your testing is incorrect.
It's the SDR SRGB mode. The other calibrators probably used the other SDR modes, or the HDR modes to measure against the calibration, or upgraded the firmware via the OSD "Sidekick" app. It has been mentioned that the sRGB mode is ... broken, in other reviews, and it creates almost HDR-SDR mismatching with saturation levels.
@@Toliman. Why bother measuring at all if you're going to put it in a broken mode? Might as well measure vivid mode on TVs. I believe most reviewers used "green" mode and from all accounts it measured very well.
Thanks for the detailed review. You just killed the sale of this monitor for me, as the price on it was floored right now. But i am glad you told me all the cons' as it would of driven me crazy, and having to send back a monitor this big is a pain. But the auto diming, which the C2 also has, and the burn in at 240 hours is a little crazy. That means you had burn in less then 10 days of actual usage.
It's probably due to using SDR SRGB as the standard display mode, and not using HDR modes, which is more accurate and calibrates better, but the HDR modes are ... just as questionable in terms of saturation and accuracy. He likely did not tinker or change the SDR/HDR modes, and that's fair, because the OSD menus are borderline trash and you'd be forgiven for thinking they don't do much. The problem is that they actually need to be changed every so often, because the SDR modes are kind of awful IMO, and most reviews touch on this SDR/ HDR problem because the native / naive thinking is that SDR should be the default.
I never actually understood overshoot until those graphs (legitimately). Definetly a bit confusing considering theirs already a color deviation standard. so the overshoot targeting a spefic color spectrum's? instead of the whole spectrums accuracy?
I have this monitor and I keep getting a warning sign it’s annoying af. It says something about turn off display to avoid damage I bearly even game on it I work out of town 9-10 months out of the year. I’ve only had it for a year I think
The error does go away if you manually perform a refresh, but you get the same warning if you shut down via the remote control too. You do need to use the Remoteto power off, which is the only way to engage the pixel refresh anyway, but the OSD warning is annoying, as I finally got rid of it once, but after updating the firmware, the warning came back, so YMMV.
Dear TechteabGB, please find attached your courtesy check to “compensate” you for your time. Would you please consider shortening the title slightly to remove the part “on paper…”. Could you also remove your test results and send the revised version of your video to our super community engagement department for review. Kind regards, Gigabyte. P.s. were totally not like MSI and all our products are always exceptional and no longer spontaneously combust.
That auto dimming feature, that can’t be turned off, is a game changer. I just lost interest in this monitor. A big enough game changer that this monitor is no longer a option for me. It’s a shame, cause it looks good when it’s bright.
You can turn it off in the service menu, but it voids your warranty. I'll be doing it. If a panel is in perfect order the first week, you almost won't ever need your warranty and thr warranty don't cover burn in so who cares anyway?
Ah, I guess you're right. Just the first review I came across that had a lot of complaining. I'm very picky and will probably end up agreeing with yours more than others lol But I hope you're wrong
OLED seems to be the future for gaming, but personally i think not this gen. Even the Alienware 3423wd gets colse to perfect but not there yet. Waiting for next gen 34"ish gaming monitors with DP 2.0
Don't buy this monitor for anything else than gaming. I have it and there is aggressive dimming that makes productivity work impossible and there is nothing you can do about it.
I'm looking to buy a large monitor to use on a Mac M1 Max for use doing creative work as well as console gaming. As far as I can tell, this is the only large display that will display 4k at 120hz for Mac and also has low input lag. Has anyone else found another huge monitor that will work with Mac?
You must have been careless or unlucky with yours to get burn in with only 280 hours. I had 1000 hours on my FO48U before selling it. Not a single hint of burn in.
therefore over 21:916:9 full screen borderless scalirte system processes applications via emus or uefi boot win on such tv that boosts something like believe me ei fach I tested it and was so shocked when my full hd went off quickly
Just bought this monitor and I'm not too impressed with it, what annoys me is the long bootup time. My PC has already finished booting into Windows and yet the monitor still hasn't signalled a display yet. Taking at least 10 seconds to show a display for a flagship product that cost me more than $1K is rather poor and disappointing.
If you turn it off via the remote control, the power-up sequence is shorter than trying to use Wake/Sleep states which take 5-10 seconds. But then again, my wireless mouse has a similar 'wake' problem to save battery, YMMV.
I own a Philips OLED TV/4K@120 Hz which looks like having (nearly) the same panel and therefore has the same problems. It shows the same behavior in case of the white-problem=fading to gray if large parts are changeing and has also the flashing issue (Input set to PC-Mode). Regarding the burnin: My TV does a forced refresh every few hours of use. A behavior that computer screens should not have under any circumstances. It's no wonder that the panel has deteriorated significantly after just a short period of use. My advice: Dont buy the actual generation of OLED screens for PC or Console! QDOLED will last longer (maybe, kinda, ahemm, ... 😵💫 ).
Have to disagree, I own a Sony 65" oled , and a philips 65" oled the Sony AF8 is 2nd gen older and the screen is still perfect the Philips is a newer OLED 806/12 , 4th gen All screens are LG so the only factor that can alter image quality is the backplane curcuitry
sorry not 14k but 16k cable for 14k 120hz for my system and i can do that dually with 2 cpus over a gpu 28k real 1 pc you have to get that in your head no fake shit that simple
It doesn't even seem to be worth $1.00. Yet it somehow passed manufacturing standards and probably cause they had already and ignorantly spent so much $$$ on parts and etc. Still, we're not paying them any money for their ignorance. Good video, thanks.
if you had a 300 watt hub for an ultra huge tv you could operate it quickly and switch multi huge dsplay for 2 players with such a huge tv that who ill. I just showed you how you can make premium money with luxury products simply there are mobile phones where people slap or panels x2 are glued and look as if they were a big one that's 15x 2 better
i would get everything else you can throw away i have a 60 hz 48 inc with hdmi and dsp in any case cable i have such 8k only if mine breaks higher is harmful 12k you can easily get if you go to 12bit 4x4x4 you can take with you 8k 12gb 24gb 356bit over 380bit 4k is only /1.5x but not at 120hz 8k cable output is the 3x 8k 12k 4.5x at 14bit or 12komt on the gpu I hope they have 14 bit programmed in I can only recommend I don't need an android tv just something simple why do you have internet with audio with a good pc right not only output that only does 1/3 and the thing should be in 55 inc so that the efects come better that i learned so that it comes from the tv minimum max 200inc 8k real no one buys stretch I'd buy it doesn't come after who I'm rich
you don't check the 8k full bandwidth for me that means if you drive a system over there to 21:9 on a tv 48 inc 120hz 8k and then the 8k x4 has 4k bandwidth I need 12k cable for 240hz full that's all that's 240hz now has beenschis always then 120 hz split through cable I get real 8k purely 200hz on the tv through an emu over 8k bandwidth new windows in the full picture without randso a boot process that in 1080p 60hz you have to drive gpus with 420bit with 16bit 16core minimum that again there are so you can 6 core makes x4 14bit the brent not from that fits my 6c 4k boost coding software gaming in 0.01 determined at the limit fps speed shit no matter which cable you have monitor picture as if I'm stupid who I want gsinic and software on the tv have therefore you have to buy and micro panel lcd i can wrap around cheaply if i would like it
I've had this monitor for a few days now and its totally epic.
Выгорел?
I recently got this monitor and it totally blew my mind. Everything looks 10X better than on my older 27" 1440p monitor. The auto dimming is not a dealbreaker for me as I prefer lower brightness.
Well any 4k monitor would lmao
How does it fair with office work text clarity….Plan to use for 8-10 hour days
@@raba8216 +1 to the office work impression feedback request. Could you share your opinion?
Welp. The Omnissiah is with me. I always use the dark theme anyways.
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Thank you for this video. I ALMOST BOUGHT IT!
To get the OLED Pixel refresh, you do need to switch the panel off with the remote control. The refresh cycle takes 20s to 60s and then you'll hear a relay click when the cycle has finished. The LG OLED has a similar power-down refresh cycle, but it's more discreet with the LG, as the LG requires a "Magic Packet" or WoL command to be sent, and there's more LG firmware/software that kicks in when the HDMI inputs have no signal i.e. "Art/Gallery Mode" also shuts down the TV when it's been on for too long. I have 1000+ hours on the FO48U , and yes, you'll get burn-in within 50-100 odd hours if you don't shut the FO48U down via the remote control.Gigabyte should have, *should* have been built in a pixel refresh on deep sleep, but for whatever reason, it does not work if you have a Displayport/HDMI Sleep mode or the PC/device sends power-off via HDMI CEC either.
There's also a nice "OSD" warning that doesn't go away either if you shut the panel down via the remote.
IDK. If I paid full price, I would definitely have been annoyed, but, it's new tech. And it was less than half the price of a 55" LG C1/C2.
Watched another video and automatically found the answer to the dimming problem you have to change both visual settings to green mode
can you please point me to that video?
Can you share that video
Please share video
There is also a hack to go into service mode, which holds standard lighting in on / standby mode. It resets in full power off mode but if you keep in standby it holds brightness
Linus showed it on his review
The auto brightness limiter on the C series (at least my C9) is not NEARLY that aggressive. Trying out the white window test, it doesn't change anything. Though I use black themes as often as I can to save the screen and the fact that it's so freakin' bright. I think Gigabyte did this because it's supposed to be "a monitor" but it doesn't matter, the tech is mature enough that burn in is negatable. As for burn in on your panel, every four hours the panel is on (at least on LG) after it is off it will "clean" the screen. I'm guessing this didn't happen because that's crazy. 6K hours on my C9 OLED monitor so far and it's absolutely fine.
There just is no real reason not to get an LG C-series display for a monitor, hell they probably made this display for them too before Gigabyte botched it, but with the quality and burn in, I'm beginning to think this wouldn't be anywhere near their quality standards.
I watched a lot reviews about this display and you are the only one pointing out the flaws. It is a lot cheaper right now at around 800€ than the QD OLEDS displays from Alienware. That is why i thought about buying it.
Bought this monitor about a month ago on eBay, I only paid $400 for it. I have absolutely no complaints. OLED for 400, just cant beat.
wtf 400$? i guess you bought aliexpress version
It's on sale on Newegg for 599 after rebate right now, just got one
@@bill770 I did the same! Mine will be here Monday and I'm excited to pop my OLED cherry. Just worried about the burn in risks using this as my daily driver for my PC.
@@Chris-yx5wg put a screen saver
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I’ve had it for a few days now and the auto dimming feature is such a non issue that I haven’t even noticed it once tbh.
Panel protection hasn’t came up either, I play for 4 hours or so a day and I simply turn the monitor off with the remote when I’m done, it says “panel protection in progress” the light on the monitor blinks for about 5 minutes and it’s done lol
Не выгорел?
13:00 you said you weren't sure what the panel was used for? So it was in the hands of others prior to you? Just wondering.
Damn. I'm actually on the market for smth like this. Guess I'll keep looking. Cheers mate.
Just get a LG C series. I'm Still 110% happy with my C9. Full speed HDMI 2.1, it's really ahead of it's time.
It does have a brightness limiter like this one, but it's MUCH less aggressive and doesn't screw with movies or games, mostly a static picture thing.
Hello, I also ordered the product. Are you satisfied with the product now? Are there any problems (burning, shadow, etc.)? What kind of product is it in general? I will use it for games and movies for an average of 4-5 hours, some days I will use it less. Do you think I made the right decision by purchasing the product?
Thanks for the review.
What’s with the ring worm loading screans on the picture..I’ve had a few beers, or should I stop having beers, and go to bed? 🤣🤷♂️🤣
Own this montior for one month. By far and wide best monitor I've ever owned. It's so versatile, so clear, so crisp and so responsive. The burnin is a thing, a very minor thing, only noticable during completely black or dark dark gray backgrounds nobody uses, and you can throw 4 27" displays side by side for double the cost and still have to deal with the stand architecture, cables, power, and bezels and screw that. This monitor is awesome and no amount of nit picking by the reviewer is going to change that. Does the screen reduce the brightness when you full screen something, yeah, but looking into the sun is dangerous and it is uncomfortable looking full on into a bright white monitor when you just woke up. The only thing I wish was different, were USB ports along the front or both sides. As it stands you get two on the left side, and I ordered extenders to reach my PC which is 4 feet away from the montior.
@David Oh hell yeah just gives you tons of viewing space.
All the ports on the left side is bad design. Consider that nearly all desktop cases are designed with to be facing right, that means you'll either have to run the cables all the way behind the monitor (which the included cables are not long enough to do) or place the tower on the wrong side, either with the viewing panel facing the wall or cables running behind the tower. Would be much better if the ports were on the right or center.
@@Sotanaht01 I can't disagree, I have my PC located about 6 feet to the left of the monitor. To make everything reach I've invested in 4 USB-C 6' extender cables, total additional cost to me was about $30.
Kvm switch and usb c port that does video is amazing. For the price, its amazing. It is truly nitpicking here. The main competitors dont have a good amount ofbthe features here
Как он у тебя сейчас? Выгорел?
i have this and the AW3423DWF. The picture looks much better on the FO48U. The glossy screen on the FO48U is way glossier than the AW3423DWF and makes a huge difference I guess.
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@techteamGB just curious, what input were you using? according to the calculator on LTT forum, 4k 120hz 10bit requires 32Gbps which is much higher than hdmi 2.1 can support at half bandwidth as you noted. Displayport 1.4 also can't support 120hz 4k at 10bit without compression. I would like to see you testing without 10bit mode turned on and without compression, and over USB-C (if it supports DP 2.0) . Also, as you know the computer & cable must also support DP 2.0 to actually achieve this ! extremely hard to do, and explains why you are getting terrible readings. DP 1.4 @ 120hz 8bit should work!
I had a similar discovery when I found out 4k60 uncompressed isn't supported by hdmi 2.0
Most of his issues all you have to do is get it calibrated lol its not hard to realize that haha i never understood complaints like this. People don't understand oled it will clip due to its limitations people go oh its to bright yes it's because of its limitations it over does it and ita tone mapping chooses to clip instead of retain denial. This is why I like oled tvs because there tone mapping is usually much much better out of the box. Just grt this display calibrated and be happy. Everything he's mentioned here guys just know you can calibrated the issues out. So don't be scared of it lol
Hmm ... Tone Mapping is one of the more difficult things to get right on the FO48U, because Windows HDR is kind of broken.
Instead, you will have to use the Gigabyte OSD HDR modes to get something like Tone Mapping to adjust the saturation/calibration points. It's ... possible/doable to create a new 3DLUT with DisplayCAL or other profile/calibration software, and adjust the HDR mode and TM via "software" option, but it isn't inherent in Windows to allow for a custom HDR tone curve to be applied for a particular game. This is where the LG C1/C2 beats *any* Monitor, but that's more because Windows HDR doesn't have those LUT features or adjustable HLG/HDR TM.
Yup you can get rid of the issues in the monitors settings.
More pricing info would be great. Just ordered this on a 44% discount for about 750 before tax and I can’t find anything that competes at that price.
I'm tempted to buy it too
Alternative monitor? Or tv in the same price bracket ?
I'm guessing they either improved the adaptive brightness or your panel is defective. I have one of these, and it's not nearly as bad as you describe. Dragging a white file explorer window around, the dimming only noticeably kicks in when the window covers around 3/4ths of the screen, which I think is entirely reasonable and probably preferable. There also doesn't seem to be any noticeable delay to the dimming, the instant too much of the screen is white, it gets progressively dimmer as I expand the window further. I haven't really noticed any problem gaming on it
Also I'm at 408 hours usage time, 0 image retention that I can detect. I am doing all I can to avoid it though, including turning the monitor off completely (which triggers the auto protection systems to run) and even using a black desktop background.
From what I've seen also the ABL only really visibly kicks in for solid white windows, so is it safe to say this has no impact on gaming?
Do you shut down the monitor with remote??
@ No I don't use the remote, I use the button/stick on the monitor itself.
@@darrenfleming7901 Close to it at least. I just did some testing in paint with various grey color fills changing the luminosity value (higher lum=more white, lower lum=more black). I found that the dimming didn't kick in to any noticable degree even at full screen until around 200 (out of 255) lum, and it was still pretty slight until around 220.
In games, I've never seen the auto dimming be an issue based on overall screen brightness. What I HAVE seen is that the screen may aggressively dim if you leave the same image with only very minor changes for ~30 seconds-1 minute. Something that can happen in some game menues that have minimal graphical changes (personally encountered it in Crusader Kings 3 when I was spending time creating a character or religion)
Я так же делаю, он у тебя выгорел? Сколько часов уже отработал?
I just quickly canceled my order after i saw the adaptive brightness change
I actually hate how bright the brightest bright is usually. I play a lot of horror games, fps, rpg, etc, read books using this even. The gray bright is helpful for my eyes, which if your vision was 20/20, you'd probably appreciate better. Sincerely, someone who bought it for less money than your reccomendation.
Can You test a LG C2 42 inch ?
I’ve watched a lot of reviews on TH-cam on this monitor and I get the good with the bad but after watching this review, I was hoping to hear something positive but no nothing as if you really don’t like this monitor. 😂 but many do like it
This seems very well done, I think HUB would be proud :)
Real review thank you
Great review, i already bought this at a discount (799$) and it is the cheapest OLED i could buy (also my first!) my main purpose for it is gaming and a little video viewing and minimal office work, so i guess i should be fine (i hope).
Lg c1 is same price
@@JustxLiving909 sadly not where i live :( i got it off Newegg and it cost me exactly 1054 USD with shipping, the C1 costs 1298 USD on my local electronics shop. and the C1 in the USA has different electricity voltage (100-120V) where i live is (220-240V) so it is not worth the buy even at 799$ for me.
I just got the monitor. I love the complete black. Text looks good. I think the high contrast, 1 ms response and 120hz is fine for text and productivity. It needs a large desk. I set it 32 inches from the chair.
The reviewers overthinks this monitor. At 799 good value for money.
Can this be used with consoles?
Can you use this for daily use as a tv as well like watching movies/shows?
It’s not a smart tv, so you will definitely need an Apple TV or some other tv boxes. Besides that, yes definitely
Can you use this for video editor ? and can you use it as. a TV?
Most of the stuff in this video is very nit picky and 99% of people will love it and not even see the "problems" he points out. Except the stupid auto brightness/dimming thing you can't turn off, that "feature" sucks! It's literally almost a deal breaker.
But i came here for the burn in part, which is terrible on mine cause I use the picture by picture mode for work from home + my personal pc. Also my panel reads 23 hours usage which is comical considering i use it 8-12 hours a day for the last 1.25 years. really sad about the burn in issues. The mode that fixes it when you turn it off doesn't reliably turn itself on unfortunately for me. I have to make sure to press the power button BEFORE my computer fully turns off when I shut down. Otherwise it doesn't seem to work.
Which brings up another very annoying part of this monitor is you basically can't touch the menu if there's not a computer on. You can press the power button and it sounds like it is going to turn on but it doesn't stay on even if you're using the remote actively.
I love this monitor's size and picture quality but I really wish it was a little better for the 1500$ i dropped on it :(
I much prefer the 16:9 aspect ratio not only for everyday use but for gaming as well. Ultrawide is way over rated in my opinion. I also prefer the larger screen size of around 50 inch on a deep desk. What we're seeing now is newer generation of 4k oled being used as a desktop. The next few years will be very interesting.
I think ultrawide is good for racing and simulation games
This or the A90K? Office work 8-10 Hr days and PS5 play on the side
For a PS5
*Are the HDMI 2.1 Ports 24Gbps*
*On the Gigabyte Aorus FO48U*
*Able to Display Full 4K@120Hz +VRR Gaming?*
Do you or does anyone know
Of any other monitors similar to this
that support Full HDMI 2.1 48 Gbps??
In the vid it says it's 24 gbps not 48
Good video. Thanks
Братан, купил я его себе 3 месяца назад под игры и кино, все ништяк, но как правильно откалибровать его знаешь?
@@alexp2082 нет
Other reviews did not agree with your measurements. Both rtings and tomshardware both measured it to be amazingly color accurate. I think something with your testing is incorrect.
It's the SDR SRGB mode. The other calibrators probably used the other SDR modes, or the HDR modes to measure against the calibration, or upgraded the firmware via the OSD "Sidekick" app. It has been mentioned that the sRGB mode is ... broken, in other reviews, and it creates almost HDR-SDR mismatching with saturation levels.
@@Toliman. Why bother measuring at all if you're going to put it in a broken mode? Might as well measure vivid mode on TVs. I believe most reviewers used "green" mode and from all accounts it measured very well.
Thanks for the detailed review.
You just killed the sale of this monitor for me, as the price on it was floored right now.
But i am glad you told me all the cons' as it would of driven me crazy, and having to send back a monitor this big is a pain.
But the auto diming, which the C2 also has, and the burn in at 240 hours is a little crazy. That means you had burn in less then 10 days of actual usage.
I don't get it, in the video Hardware Unboxed all the graphs where green for overshoot and stuff. Perfect in every way.
It's probably due to using SDR SRGB as the standard display mode, and not using HDR modes, which is more accurate and calibrates better, but the HDR modes are ... just as questionable in terms of saturation and accuracy.
He likely did not tinker or change the SDR/HDR modes, and that's fair, because the OSD menus are borderline trash and you'd be forgiven for thinking they don't do much. The problem is that they actually need to be changed every so often, because the SDR modes are kind of awful IMO, and most reviews touch on this SDR/ HDR problem because the native / naive thinking is that SDR should be the default.
I never actually understood overshoot until those graphs (legitimately). Definetly a bit confusing considering theirs already a color deviation standard. so the overshoot targeting a spefic color spectrum's? instead of the whole spectrums accuracy?
Same. Let me know if you find anything.
There is crosshairs belt on monitors?
What is the gift ?
I have this monitor and I keep getting a warning sign it’s annoying af. It says something about turn off display to avoid damage I bearly even game on it I work out of town 9-10 months out of the year. I’ve only had it for a year I think
The error does go away if you manually perform a refresh, but you get the same warning if you shut down via the remote control too. You do need to use the Remoteto power off, which is the only way to engage the pixel refresh anyway, but the OSD warning is annoying, as I finally got rid of it once, but after updating the firmware, the warning came back, so YMMV.
@@Toliman. I just updated my pic after being gone for work for a few weeks n I haven’t got the warning sign in over a week so I’ve been happy 😆
very well done
Dear TechteabGB, please find attached your courtesy check to “compensate” you for your time. Would you please consider shortening the title slightly to remove the part “on paper…”. Could you also remove your test results and send the revised version of your video to our super community engagement department for review. Kind regards, Gigabyte.
P.s. were totally not like MSI and all our products are always exceptional and no longer spontaneously combust.
That auto dimming feature, that can’t be turned off, is a game changer. I just lost interest in this monitor. A big enough game changer that this monitor is no longer a option for me. It’s a shame, cause it looks good when it’s bright.
I got a BX 55 for my setup and I needed to buy the service manual and disable the ABL that way.
You can turn it off in the service menu, but it voids your warranty. I'll be doing it. If a panel is in perfect order the first week, you almost won't ever need your warranty and thr warranty don't cover burn in so who cares anyway?
@@brodylockwood14did you ever figure out how to access the service menu and disable ABL?
Thank you for saving me ~800 dollars.
Well you just persuaded me out of it. The non-negotiable Adaptive Brightness and Burn-in are a deal breaker for me. Appreciate your thoroughness.
The HDMI implementation was a massive mistake.
Ah, I guess you're right. Just the first review I came across that had a lot of complaining. I'm very picky and will probably end up agreeing with yours more than others lol But I hope you're wrong
OLED seems to be the future for gaming, but personally i think not this gen. Even the Alienware 3423wd gets colse to perfect but not there yet. Waiting for next gen 34"ish gaming monitors with DP 2.0
thank you for saving me 800 dollars.
Don't buy this monitor for anything else than gaming. I have it and there is aggressive dimming that makes productivity work impossible and there is nothing you can do about it.
Is it good for watching movies and consoles ?
Thanks for the review.. just saved me from purchasing the screen. No wonder its one of the cheapest OLED's at least as of 2023-08
Thanks for this review. Newegg has a crazy price on this thing right now and I almost grabbed it. Bullet dodged. :)
I have it and its great, but only have a 1080 Ti OR Vega 64 LC to sue so no HDMI 2.1 for me
I'm looking to buy a large monitor to use on a Mac M1 Max for use doing creative work as well as console gaming. As far as I can tell, this is the only large display that will display 4k at 120hz for Mac and also has low input lag. Has anyone else found another huge monitor that will work with Mac?
This is the only one unfortunately, but there will be new oled 4k monitors shown at CES in early 2023
@@RuneMamba yeah then you have to wait a year for sells because I never buy this stuff full price.
I almost bit the bullet on this screen but I don't think OLED is quite ready yet. I think I'll save some money and wait a few years
Lg c2 oled is best
The LG C1 is 200 nits brighter in HDR
You must have been careless or unlucky with yours to get burn in with only 280 hours. I had 1000 hours on my FO48U before selling it. Not a single hint of burn in.
Burn in make Oled such a waste imo
Gigabyte makes very questionable design decisions.
therefore over 21:9 16:9 full screen borderless scalirte system processes applications via emus or uefi boot win on such tv that boosts something like believe me ei fach I tested it and was so shocked when my full hd went off quickly
;) worst sales man ever. HAHA. Yeah I got well given for Xmas the new LG monitor LCD 48GQ900-B. Thanks mate
Shiet i almost bought this
wo...HZD PC 4K@MAX 120fps (imo be inpossible) with 3070Ti...XD bu 50-60 fps be almost console experienec
i need fullhd
Just bought this monitor and I'm not too impressed with it, what annoys me is the long bootup time. My PC has already finished booting into Windows and yet the monitor still hasn't signalled a display yet. Taking at least 10 seconds to show a display for a flagship product that cost me more than $1K is rather poor and disappointing.
If you turn it off via the remote control, the power-up sequence is shorter than trying to use Wake/Sleep states which take 5-10 seconds. But then again, my wireless mouse has a similar 'wake' problem to save battery, YMMV.
I own a Philips OLED TV/4K@120 Hz which looks like having (nearly) the same panel and therefore has the same problems.
It shows the same behavior in case of the white-problem=fading to gray if large parts are changeing and has also the flashing issue (Input set to PC-Mode).
Regarding the burnin:
My TV does a forced refresh every few hours of use. A behavior that computer screens should not have under any circumstances.
It's no wonder that the panel has deteriorated significantly after just a short period of use.
My advice:
Dont buy the actual generation of OLED screens for PC or Console!
QDOLED will last longer (maybe, kinda, ahemm, ... 😵💫 ).
Have to disagree, I own a Sony 65" oled , and a philips 65" oled the Sony AF8 is 2nd gen older and the screen is still perfect the Philips is a newer OLED 806/12 , 4th gen All screens are LG so the only factor that can alter image quality is the backplane curcuitry
c2 is 4000, fo48u is 1200
oled in it's current form has no business on a computer monitor
cheap panel.
sorry not 14k but 16k cable for 14k 120hz for my system and i can do that dually with 2 cpus over a gpu 28k real 1 pc you have to get that in your head no fake shit that simple
It doesn't even seem to be worth $1.00. Yet it somehow passed manufacturing standards and probably cause they had already and ignorantly spent so much $$$ on parts and etc. Still, we're not paying them any money for their ignorance. Good video, thanks.
if you had a 300 watt hub for an ultra huge tv you could operate it quickly and switch multi huge dsplay for 2 players with such a huge tv that who ill. I just showed you how you can make premium money with luxury products simply there are mobile phones where people slap or panels x2 are glued and look as if they were a big one that's 15x 2 better
i would get everything else you can throw away i have a 60 hz 48 inc with hdmi and dsp in any case cable i have such 8k only if mine breaks higher is harmful 12k you can easily get if you go to 12bit 4x4x4 you can take with you 8k 12gb 24gb 356bit over 380bit 4k is only /1.5x but not at 120hz 8k cable output is the 3x 8k 12k 4.5x at 14bit or 12komt on the gpu I hope they have 14 bit programmed in I can only recommend I don't need an android tv just something simple why do you have internet with audio with a good pc right not only output that only does 1/3 and the thing should be in 55 inc so that the efects come better that i learned so that it comes from the tv minimum max 200inc 8k real no one buys stretch I'd buy it doesn't come after who I'm rich
you don't check the 8k full bandwidth for me that means if you drive a system over there to 21:9 on a tv 48 inc 120hz 8k and then the 8k x4 has 4k bandwidth I need 12k cable for 240hz full that's all that's 240hz now has beenschis always then 120 hz split through cable I get real 8k purely 200hz on the tv through an emu over 8k bandwidth new windows in the full picture without randso a boot process that in 1080p 60hz you have to drive gpus with 420bit with 16bit 16core minimum that again there are so you can 6 core makes x4 14bit the brent not from that fits my 6c 4k boost coding software gaming in 0.01 determined at the limit fps speed shit no matter which cable you have monitor picture as if I'm stupid who I want gsinic and software on the tv have therefore you have to buy and micro panel lcd i can wrap around cheaply if i would like it
do you like meth?
This is word salad, I guess you're a bot.