Rob, thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife and I decided to take on this challenge after watching your video (not sure how smart it was :) ). We just finished and it went perfectly. In our application we were putting it in a two story home and had a 21 foot span, so it was definitely "SCARY" at times, but end up being perfect! We had multiple quotes between 25 and 35k 😭, but we were able to do it on our own (with some helping hands and minds from family) for under $6000 (all in with materials and rentals)😄. We obviously made some changes to what you did due to our situation (we 'super-built' everything to be sure). We used 6x8 lvls for the posts, packed the beam with 4x8's (which needed to be planed down a bit) and 1/2" plywood, used carriage bolts instead of threaded rod, and a couple of other differences. We definitely could not have ever dreamt of doing it without your video and wanted to say "THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
I use to work for Sumner manufacturing back in the mid 80's and i built the roust a bouts and did some delivery, now i am a Custom Home Builder and Architect in Houston, Texas this brings back memories. I like your video this is the first one that i have seen you spoke so well of your job with installing the flush beam.
An excellent video Rob. All involved did a good job. Put an LVL in my son and daughter-in-laws house last year. My daughter-in-law talked to the person who was doing work at her parents house who said the wall was not load bearing but I knew it was.... I went down for a visit before they hired this gentleman and had a structural engineer look at it who confirmed it was load bearing. The structural engineer drew up plans for the wall, specified what beam and with fastener options, etc and we got it done. No knock on the gentleman who originally looked at it. He was a handyman and not a licensed contractor. He did really good work on my daughter-in-laws parents kitchen and the wainscoting and flooring in their dining room. But he wasn’t a viable option for opening up that wall. I explained to my son and daughter-in-law that their house is an investment in their future and that any repairs, remodeling or structural changes need to be done safely and properly. You folks are my favorite TH-cam channel and always put out information pertinent to people in the trades or DIYer’s. Thanks. Ron
Very nice video with lots of helpful info. As an engineer myself, my only constructive criticism is I would have used 15/32 plywood and a 4x8 planed down with a jointer to "pack" the W8x58 beam. This is instead of using three 2x8's on each side. The outermost 2x8 is not supported adequately on the bottom flange in my opinion. I would have cut 15/32 plywood to fit innermost next to the web of the steel beam, then place a 4x8 outboard of the plywood. The overhang outside the flange would be negligible, and you wouldn't cause any shear or moment stresses on that outer board. Excellent otherwise.
I would Agree to this Idea and proper stitch nailing of the 3- 2x8s would be important. Also A-35s to the underside of the plywood subfloor would be good for shear transfer to the diaphragm above.
Good stuff. Just took on a project that the customer wants to replace the triple lvl beam 14 inch. With 9" steel. Good informative info. I appreciate it. Engineer next
I felt like you were speaking another language but the video let m know what you meant. I was so glad to see what happens when one is installed. I'll be getting one in my new to me 1955 ranch! Thanks!!
Excellent descriptions of what you did, very very well spoken and precise, and helpful to remember tips you recognized along the way. Thanks for the post. Very good
We are going to take out a 20 section of bearing wall (one sided) and want the beam to be flush mount. Can't get an LVL to work for deflection so we need to use hot rolled. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks!
Thank you, Rob, for the very educational video!...Just replaced my 100 year old basement staircase and have to replace a joist in order to increase the headroom!
More like this please! In the Uk the structural engineer rarely specifies anything other than steel for support, it’s a hell of a job usually but I charge around £1000 a meter for the complete job so although it’s a job I never look forward to, I make sure I’m compensated adequately! It’s always interesting to see how it’s done on the other side of the ocean
We often use a ‘genie lift’ I think it’s the same, a winch operated lift. More often tho we just shoulder it, it’s hard to manuvure the lift into a house and they are so heavy! If we’re opening up the back of the house for an extension we might use a lift
Thank you for making this video, it was very clear and informative! I've never installed a steel beam and my clients asked that I look into it for their first floor remodel. This was incredibly helpful getting us started in the right direction!
Great video and well done. The steel guys like me love to see a good planned job. So we have room to do our work. Not a easy task most of the time. Really like the space you left for them to work.
I found this video to be extremely informative. If you want, you can pause the recording at multiple points instead of trying to shoot the entire process in one attempt. It'll also make you more comfortable about speaking to the camera if you do that since you can stop and restart whenever you finish each main point.
Beautifully explained and removes much of the smoke and mirrors from what looks like a very fiddly (and potentially dangerous) operation. Some before/after footage would add something here, though not really the point of the video. We're about to do something similar here in Sydney, Aust. Many thanks - Dave
Structural engineer here doing the exact same thing. Using an HSS instead of wide flange for the steel though. Hopefully that will be easier for the carpenters to attach the 1x to the steel.
In other words skip this unless you absolutely have to. Looks expensive for what they get out of it. Makes me appreciate the easier to handle stuff I deal with. Love your videos. Take care.
Well no, if the joists run the same direction as the steel then it's a much simpler job (certainly in the UK). Cross directional is a nightmare and I wouldn't ever specify it on a project. Some people choose to lower their ceilings instead of trying to recess which is cheaper but you need the ceiling height for this to not be an issue.
Wish you were in my location! I have exact same project with less issues. A 30ft span with 4 6x6 posts supporting an enclosed deck. Remove posts and to replace with steel beam across span. Every contractor here says it cant be done and would require a 24" LVL with only two posts removed.
Rob- you are very talented, no question. I disagree with packing the web. The level of work that has gone into this clearly indicates a healthy budget. I would have literally gone 6x8x1/4 A36 HSS and welded custom steel joist hangars to the parent metal. I have met few P.E.s and AISC, and ASME engineers who find the packing technique to be comfortable for them. Maybe I’m just spoiled and live in the land of endless material and support resources coming from multimillion dollar shops...either way, enjoyed watching this video. The big takeaway is showing the power of what 2 pieces of what look to be 3x3x1/2L can hold on the attachment points to load center. The welding as you know is always secondary to the mechanical shore, but man does it help make the attachments
Very cool to watch! I've been thinking up an alternative to a full-length structural beam at my roof ridge. (It's a 26' wide single-story 1925 bungalow that we're about to add a camelback addition to, connecting existing roof with new by building a full-height dormer centered on the old ridge.) To beef up the existing ridge, which is just a 1x sandwiched between the 2x8 rafters, I was thinking of fabricating some trapezoidal plywood gussets that hug the rafters (allowing us to remove the old collar ties), and running 24" lengths of doubled-up 2x10 lumber between them (leaving the original ridge board in place). I wonder if this would have the overall stiffening effect that a structural LVL ridge beam would, or if I'm just fooling myself. :-)
You’re very helpful, I have a second floor concrete wall three stories high sitting at 150-year-old wooden beam that is sagging in the middle over a basement. I have to jack up the beam To level the floor and then put in a permanent support such as an I beam
👍 well explained! Been there, done that, got the tee shirt… home owners have NO IDEA what goes into eliminating “ one stupid little post” lol . I’ve heard it a million times and very rarely does it ever happen. But this was an excellent demonstration of what is involved. I’ll be bookmarking this one for the future when the homeowner asks me why my estimate includes a free diaper ! 🤣
I live in Japan and building a new kindergarten. Builder tells me I need posts. I asked them why not sandwich i-beams in between first and second floor to span the 7.5 m width. They said they can't. I've seen cold-composite steel but why is it so weird to mix steel and wood ?? You did it well
Super cool. Fortunate you could fit the beam into the basement. Surprised it didn’t have to go through a window. Awesome job and explanation. Really good idea with the LVL and Jack levelling. Did you bring it back to where it was prior to ripping the old beam out or try to level the floor as best you could? I would imagine, especially in older homes you wouldn’t be able to get a perfectly level floor from one side to other due to foundation not being perfectly level.
Good job overall, and liked the way you packed the beam with wood and threaded rod. One problem I saw is the 1/2" total joist overcut on the beam opening. Though making for an easier install, this would be problematic as joist hangers are designed for joists to be flush against the beam. 1/4" gap here is out of spec and many engineers and inspectors will fail this.
AdvancedRemodeling interesting - by the time the beam was installed the gap was closer to 1/8”. probably due to hand cutting, cutting left of line, etc
If it was an issue, it’s always possible to add another layer between the laminated wood to give a tighter fit. Plus sistering lumber is never an exact measurement.
@@ConcordCarpenteryes, 1/8" gap beam to joist most inspectors won't complain. Insetting beams is not an easy operation, your video makes it look easy! Cutting and prepping the pocket is a battle. If that wasn't bad enough actually raising the beam can be very difficult without that nice lift you have. Even piecing LVLs one by one into an inset pocket has its problems. We often perform this procedure and if the gap is too tight its very difficult.
Great video - I wonder with a deeper i beam you could rest trusses within it in case you split your truss span to reduce depth with support columns underneath.
Hi Robert, as with many of the other comments below, a great video that does a really good job of explaining the details involved for homeowners like me that have no previous experience in this particular activity. And I offer that coming from someone who doesn't normally leave comments. I'm a Scotsman abroad, living in Winnipeg, Canada, now and hoping to develop a basement in an 1970's era bungalow ... I would love to replace 1 (maybe 2) teleports with a steel beam to make the space more open. Question -- Can you offer any ballpark costs to such a project (per meter or foot), and would any structural engineer company typically do this type of work for residential properties? If there are any such engineers from manitoba reading this, I welcome your feedback as well! :) PS. I hit the like button, and am now subscribed! Thanks again, Ross.
Great information! But, you skipped a critical step on us! The wide flange beam is hanging by the cables. You said "we rolled it into place". In the next scene the beam is on top of the two lift jacks. At 58 lbs./ft., I doubt that the beam was man-handled. How was that accomplished?
Great job! I would like to know would the support by the beam be less because you are using hoist hangers instead of putting it on top of it. I know that it would then not be a flushed beam but does it mean the support is less ?
Wow, What a great video, just this morning I had a local Brooklyn, N.Y steel company visit my home for a similar quote. I want to remove a load bearing wall which has another load bearing just above my floor. I'm request that the new support beam be move over to where there is also a steel beam which this very same company had install one back in 2017. Back then I had them replaced all of the wooden beams and post with steel which help clean up my basement. My only concern now would be, would they be up to the task of trying to install a recess beam which would really look great in my new living room.
I have clerestory construction where the roof truss beams go through the exterior wall to the lanai outside by the pool and pergola style pool enclosure that has 8 4X8 cedar beams over the pool, they are not load bearing other than their own weight and the pool screens. But.... The headers that hold those beams up as well as the main roof trusses on the house side of the pool are badly rotted. I just closed April 6 and knew there were three of the non load bearing beams that needed replacement, but now I see they all need replacement along with the header all the way along the pool length, which is 44 feet on one side and 34 on the house side, but the one on the house side of the pool is a critical structural element. It holds the roof up and I have found one of the header beams to be so rotton it is actually hollow, a kitchen knife meets zero resistance when stuck in. I need to get an engineer here ASAP and get the trusses shored up pretty much the same day on an emergency basis, but half the engineers in this area either retired when covid came along or they have shut their offices for the duration and I have been unable to reach any or get a call back. Since the wooden members are exposed to Florida weather and over a pool which is by definition a damp place, I am thinking that replacing the 4x10 cedar headers with steel 4x9.5 box girders or I beams would be the best way to go since they can't warp or rot if protected from rust. The house was built in 1991 and it seems these wooden beams should have lasted longer than they have for such important load bearing structural members. Wood might be cheaper but by how much? Is it worth it if the job just has to be done in another 35 or 40 years? By the way, the open span between the support columns is 12' 8" on center of the columns. So, the important load bearing house side would require 3 beams/girders to replace the rotton ones. And god I hope none of the trusses going into the walls inside have to be replaced. I think I would have to walk away if that were the case. But it is all going to be acedemic if I cannot find a working engineer in the next couple weeks.
Fantastic! The Prep as usual more then 50% of the project. Big Question how and where did you find a Lift Rental Company or Did your Steel Vendor supply those Beam Lifts.? Brilliant Staging and Engineering Rob ...
@@ConcordCarpenter Thanks Rob, I'm in the Philadelphia Venue and deal with More equipment Rental Companies then I can remember. But the ONLY people that I've ever seen using those type lifts have been Riggers an Haulers and or Steel/Iron guys doing the the Rough stuff in the High Rises in Center City Philly... From what I see Your Crew does Outstanding Work and Workmanship. Thanks Again, You and your crew have influenced a large number of purchases Especially the Safety Kits with a tourniquet in each truck . Thanks Joe D
I am planning to remove a wall that carries a load of my ceiling joists only, the engineering specifies a 2 Ply LVL 2x9-1/2" 14 feet, I was planning to buy 2 2x12" conversational lumber instead(Home Depot), the LVL costs 5x more in my city, any toughs or tips?
Steel beams are awesome! (Why did you have to pack the beam with 3 layers of wood though, was it not possible to bring the joists in to only one, that way the joists would also “sit” on the steel beam itself?)
Really well done... Great details down to each screw.... I have series of joists sagging(slanting) all the way from the bearing/exterior wall to my sagging beam. It's a distance of about 13 feet. Is it possible that joists could sag that far a distance without something else being wrong? Thanks, Rob (My sagging beam is deflected by 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch.) Thanks, Rob
I'm actually removing a column in my basement, that has 2 floors above plus the attic, we need the space for a pool table. Almost done with relocating the working on the girder.
From a licensed structural engineer , I would say you did everything by the book. Great Job.
Thank you sir
Rob, thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife and I decided to take on this challenge after watching your video (not sure how smart it was :) ). We just finished and it went perfectly. In our application we were putting it in a two story home and had a 21 foot span, so it was definitely "SCARY" at times, but end up being perfect! We had multiple quotes between 25 and 35k 😭, but we were able to do it on our own (with some helping hands and minds from family) for under $6000 (all in with materials and rentals)😄. We obviously made some changes to what you did due to our situation (we 'super-built' everything to be sure). We used 6x8 lvls for the posts, packed the beam with 4x8's (which needed to be planed down a bit) and 1/2" plywood, used carriage bolts instead of threaded rod, and a couple of other differences. We definitely could not have ever dreamt of doing it without your video and wanted to say "THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
Rob, you did an incredible job of articulating, practically step-by-step, with parts description. I really enjoyed this video. Thank you for posting.
Thank you Eric
All I can say is: "That's intense"!
Rob, once again, you and your crew do fantastic work.
I use to work for Sumner manufacturing back in the mid 80's and i built the roust a bouts and did some delivery, now i am a Custom Home Builder and Architect in Houston, Texas this brings back memories. I like your video this is the first one that i have seen you spoke so well of your job with installing the flush beam.
Thank you sir
Phenomenal job explaining all the ins and outs without missing any bit of infornation. Thank you for this !
An excellent video Rob. All involved did a good job. Put an LVL in my son and daughter-in-laws house last year. My daughter-in-law talked to the person who was doing work at her parents house who said the wall was not load bearing but I knew it was.... I went down for a visit before they hired this gentleman and had a structural engineer look at it who confirmed it was load bearing. The structural engineer drew up plans for the wall, specified what beam and with fastener options, etc and we got it done.
No knock on the gentleman who originally looked at it. He was a handyman and not a licensed contractor. He did really good work on my daughter-in-laws parents kitchen and the wainscoting and flooring in their dining room. But he wasn’t a viable option for opening up that wall.
I explained to my son and daughter-in-law that their house is an investment in their future and that any repairs, remodeling or structural changes need to be done safely and properly.
You folks are my favorite TH-cam channel and always put out information pertinent to people in the trades or DIYer’s. Thanks.
Ron
Your information and delivery is PERFECT. No cut corners yet to the point. Thank you very much.
Very nice video with lots of helpful info. As an engineer myself, my only constructive criticism is I would have used 15/32 plywood and a 4x8 planed down with a jointer to "pack" the W8x58 beam. This is instead of using three 2x8's on each side. The outermost 2x8 is not supported adequately on the bottom flange in my opinion. I would have cut 15/32 plywood to fit innermost next to the web of the steel beam, then place a 4x8 outboard of the plywood. The overhang outside the flange would be negligible, and you wouldn't cause any shear or moment stresses on that outer board. Excellent otherwise.
Should be negligible anyway if the bolts are adequate
I would Agree to this Idea and proper stitch nailing of the 3- 2x8s would be important. Also A-35s to the underside of the plywood subfloor would be good for shear transfer to the diaphragm above.
Good stuff. Just took on a project that the customer wants to replace the triple lvl beam 14 inch. With 9" steel. Good informative info. I appreciate it. Engineer next
I felt like you were speaking another language but the video let m know what you meant. I was so glad to see what happens when one is installed. I'll be getting one in my new to me 1955 ranch! Thanks!!
Rob - amazing step by step description which will equip me with some knowledge when asking my builder to undertake this job for me. Great job!!!!!!
BEAUTIFULLY explained. I'm in an almost identical situation, and really feel like I have a better handle on things now. Thank you!
Excellent descriptions of what you did, very very well spoken and precise, and helpful to remember tips you recognized along the way. Thanks for the post. Very good
We are going to take out a 20 section of bearing wall (one sided) and want the beam to be flush mount. Can't get an LVL to work for deflection so we need to use hot rolled. This is exactly what I needed to see. Thanks!
Good luck!
Nicely done in the perfect amount of time, with the appropriate amount of detail.
Thank you, Rob, for the very educational video!...Just replaced my 100 year old basement staircase and have to replace a joist in order to increase the headroom!
More like this please! In the Uk the structural engineer rarely specifies anything other than steel for support, it’s a hell of a job usually but I charge around £1000 a meter for the complete job so although it’s a job I never look forward to, I make sure I’m compensated adequately! It’s always interesting to see how it’s done on the other side of the ocean
Ben Chippy can u get those lifts easy in the uk?
We often use a ‘genie lift’ I think it’s the same, a winch operated lift. More often tho we just shoulder it, it’s hard to manuvure the lift into a house and they are so heavy! If we’re opening up the back of the house for an extension we might use a lift
Ben Chippy oh yup, what part of the uk are u in just out interest? I'm in NZ
I’m in Milton Keynes, bout 40 miles north of London. Do you use steels rsj in nz too? I’ve always wanted to live there btw!
Ben Chippy You would be right at home mate, plenty of poms already here, yes we use steel beams if the engineer specifies them
Thank you for making this video, it was very clear and informative! I've never installed a steel beam and my clients asked that I look into it for their first floor remodel. This was incredibly helpful getting us started in the right direction!
Of all the wall removal videos I've seen, yours is the only one that mentions fasteners from the above subfloor!
Great video and well done. The steel guys like me love to see a good planned job. So we have room to do our work. Not a easy task most of the time. Really like the space you left for them to work.
I found this video to be extremely informative. If you want, you can pause the recording at multiple points instead of trying to shoot the entire process in one attempt. It'll also make you more comfortable about speaking to the camera if you do that since you can stop and restart whenever you finish each main point.
Beautifully explained and removes much of the smoke and mirrors from what looks like a very fiddly (and potentially dangerous) operation. Some before/after footage would add something here, though not really the point of the video. We're about to do something similar here in Sydney, Aust. Many thanks - Dave
very thorough and knowledgeable on the topic. Excellent work. Thank you
Excellent video and concept. I am working on an academic paper, and this was THE answer I needed. Many thanks!
Awesome tutorial. Very informative and you really took the time to mention the caveats/potential tripping points. Thank you sir!
This is a real PRO Job. Double thumbs up!!
What an awesome video!! Thank you for sharing estimated cost, in answered comments, as well!!
Really useful walkthrough of the process. Thanks a lot. Great job.
Structural engineer here doing the exact same thing. Using an HSS instead of wide flange for the steel though. Hopefully that will be easier for the carpenters to attach the 1x to the steel.
One of your best videos rob. Very tidy work .
Got a love it when a plan comes together
Sounds like a quote from The A-Team...lol
Yes sir
Well said rob.I know someone that is thinking of doing something similar to his place I will be passing this video on to him to get some ideas.cheers.
In other words skip this unless you absolutely have to. Looks expensive for what they get out of it. Makes me appreciate the easier to handle stuff I deal with. Love your videos. Take care.
Well no, if the joists run the same direction as the steel then it's a much simpler job (certainly in the UK). Cross directional is a nightmare and I wouldn't ever specify it on a project. Some people choose to lower their ceilings instead of trying to recess which is cheaper but you need the ceiling height for this to not be an issue.
This is the video I've been looking for!! Thank you much! Great explanations, angles, details. Gave me the confidence needed for my next step.
Very thorough and detailed. Thank you very much for taking the time to make a very nice presentation.
Steel and wood: an excellent combination! Greetings from the Old Continent!
Excellent description. I hope it works in the UK!
This is great work Rob!
That was explained so well made it so easy to understand along with the Video and photos thanks
that was awesome! i liked the beveled edge on the back of the wood.
Amazing craftsmanship as usual!!
love watching these types of videos.
Great video. Interesting to see how other country’s do it! It’s done exactly the same here in Scotland 🏴 love the content!!
Love this video and the step by step explanation!
Great presentation and detail. You know your stuff. Thanks.
I second the awesome articulation..
my house is a nightmare with load bearing.. this should be fun and expensive
Wish you were in my location! I have exact same project with less issues. A 30ft span with 4 6x6 posts supporting an enclosed deck. Remove posts and to replace with steel beam across span. Every contractor here says it cant be done and would require a 24" LVL with only two posts removed.
Well done. Thank you for sharing.
I need to do it in my house as well.
You can do it!
Great informative video, thanks for sharing your experience!
Terrific video, great insights.
Rob- you are very talented, no question. I disagree with packing the web. The level of work that has gone into this clearly indicates a healthy budget. I would have literally gone 6x8x1/4 A36
HSS and welded custom steel joist hangars to the parent metal. I have met few P.E.s and AISC, and ASME engineers who find the packing technique to be comfortable for them. Maybe I’m just spoiled and live in the land of endless material and support resources coming from multimillion dollar shops...either way, enjoyed watching this video. The big takeaway is showing the power of what 2 pieces of what look to be 3x3x1/2L can hold on the attachment points to load center. The welding as you know is always secondary to the mechanical shore, but man does it help make the attachments
Thanks for your comment - your method sounds fun! I followed my structural engineers plan
This is a great explanation!
Sebastiaan Mollema thx
That my friend is a dead serious undertaking
Thank you SO much for this EXTREMELY detailed and INFORMATIVE video!!!
You are so welcome!
helluva job and thanks for the tip on the rout a bouts
Nice video. Well thought out.
Very cool to watch! I've been thinking up an alternative to a full-length structural beam at my roof ridge. (It's a 26' wide single-story 1925 bungalow that we're about to add a camelback addition to, connecting existing roof with new by building a full-height dormer centered on the old ridge.) To beef up the existing ridge, which is just a 1x sandwiched between the 2x8 rafters, I was thinking of fabricating some trapezoidal plywood gussets that hug the rafters (allowing us to remove the old collar ties), and running 24" lengths of doubled-up 2x10 lumber between them (leaving the original ridge board in place).
I wonder if this would have the overall stiffening effect that a structural LVL ridge beam would, or if I'm just fooling myself. :-)
Fantastic work
Well done. Easy to understand.
Awesome explanation as usual. Very helpful info!!!
Very informative. Great video!
Very excellent tutorial. Thank you
This was really helpful and awesome, great work
I’d have loved to see the finished job with the ceiling all closed up.
It was a flat continuous ceiling
You’re very helpful, I have a second floor concrete wall three stories high sitting at 150-year-old wooden beam that is sagging in the middle over a basement. I have to jack up the beam To level the floor and then put in a permanent support such as an I beam
well done. Good step by step video.
amazing retrofit!
Thank you! Cheers!
👍 well explained! Been there, done that, got the tee shirt… home owners have NO IDEA what goes into eliminating “ one stupid little post” lol . I’ve heard it a million times and very rarely does it ever happen. But this was an excellent demonstration of what is involved. I’ll be bookmarking this one for the future when the homeowner asks me why my estimate includes a free diaper ! 🤣
Sick and tired Of complaining haha diaper - funny
kick ass. no shortage of cordless to cut the wood. lates
dave daved yeah no cords is awesome
Very interesting an thanks for the knowledge about installing a steel beam !!!!!!!!!
I live in Japan and building a new kindergarten. Builder tells me I need posts. I asked them why not sandwich i-beams in between first and second floor to span the 7.5 m width. They said they can't. I've seen cold-composite steel but why is it so weird to mix steel and wood ?? You did it well
excellent video. Thank you
Super cool. Fortunate you could fit the beam into the basement. Surprised it didn’t have to go through a window.
Awesome job and explanation.
Really good idea with the LVL and Jack levelling.
Did you bring it back to where it was prior to ripping the old beam out or try to level the floor as best you could?
I would imagine, especially in older homes you wouldn’t be able to get a perfectly level floor from one side to other due to foundation not being perfectly level.
Agreed. Really welled explained
Damn that's cool, awesome job
Good job overall, and liked the way you packed the beam with wood and threaded rod. One problem I saw is the 1/2" total joist overcut on the beam opening. Though making for an easier install, this would be problematic as joist hangers are designed for joists to be flush against the beam. 1/4" gap here is out of spec and many engineers and inspectors will fail this.
AdvancedRemodeling Do u mean cost for the contractor or cost for the the client?
AdvancedRemodeling interesting - by the time the beam was installed the gap was closer to 1/8”. probably due to hand cutting, cutting left of line, etc
If it was an issue, it’s always possible to add another layer between the laminated wood to give a tighter fit.
Plus sistering lumber is never an exact measurement.
@@ConcordCarpenteryes, 1/8" gap beam to joist most inspectors won't complain. Insetting beams is not an easy operation, your video makes it look easy! Cutting and prepping the pocket is a battle. If that wasn't bad enough actually raising the beam can be very difficult without that nice lift you have. Even piecing LVLs one by one into an inset pocket has its problems. We often perform this procedure and if the gap is too tight its very difficult.
Nice.
I'm about to do something similar.
This is helpful.
Great video - I wonder with a deeper i beam you could rest trusses within it in case you split your truss span to reduce depth with support columns underneath.
8:20 Use a grinder to cut exposed nails. I love my cordless one for this type of job.
Awesome! Thank you!
Do you have any suggestion on how to not damage wood floors when building temporary walls??
Does the PSL engineered post have to go all the way down to the foundation of the basement floor or just the 2x6 that sits on the foundation?
Great Video. / The end posts should be checked for plate crushing..limiting factor is post area x 625 psi..(For 4x6 post-12kips)
Imagine being so well-off that you spend THOUSANDS just because you don't like seeing a beam and a few posts...hope I achieve that status someday!
Great info !
Hi Robert, as with many of the other comments below, a great video that does a really good job of explaining the details involved for homeowners like me that have no previous experience in this particular activity. And I offer that coming from someone who doesn't normally leave comments.
I'm a Scotsman abroad, living in Winnipeg, Canada, now and hoping to develop a basement in an 1970's era bungalow ... I would love to replace 1 (maybe 2) teleports with a steel beam to make the space more open.
Question -- Can you offer any ballpark costs to such a project (per meter or foot), and would any structural engineer company typically do this type of work for residential properties? If there are any such engineers from manitoba reading this, I welcome your feedback as well! :)
PS. I hit the like button, and am now subscribed! Thanks again, Ross.
No linear foot pricing - this was approx 18k frame to finish
Great information! But, you skipped a critical step on us! The wide flange beam is hanging by the cables. You said "we rolled it into place". In the next scene the beam is on top of the two lift jacks. At 58 lbs./ft., I doubt that the beam was man-handled. How was that accomplished?
Brian Baldwin we rolled it on pipes and then rolled it on the lift bases
Great job! I would like to know would the support by the beam be less because you are using hoist hangers instead of putting it on top of it. I know that it would then not be a flushed beam but does it mean the support is less ?
Great question i hope he answers soon
Very informative ❤
Wow, What a great video, just this morning I had a local Brooklyn, N.Y steel company visit my home for a similar quote. I want to remove a load bearing wall which has another load bearing just above my floor. I'm request that the new support beam be move over to where there is also a steel beam which this very same company had install one back in 2017. Back then I had them replaced all of the wooden beams and post with steel which help clean up my basement. My only concern now would be, would they be up to the task of trying to install a recess beam which would really look great in my new living room.
I have clerestory construction where the roof truss beams go through the exterior wall to the lanai outside by the pool and pergola style pool enclosure that has 8 4X8 cedar beams over the pool, they are not load bearing other than their own weight and the pool screens. But.... The headers that hold those beams up as well as the main roof trusses on the house side of the pool are badly rotted. I just closed April 6 and knew there were three of the non load bearing beams that needed replacement, but now I see they all need replacement along with the header all the way along the pool length, which is 44 feet on one side and 34 on the house side, but the one on the house side of the pool is a critical structural element. It holds the roof up and I have found one of the header beams to be so rotton it is actually hollow, a kitchen knife meets zero resistance when stuck in. I need to get an engineer here ASAP and get the trusses shored up pretty much the same day on an emergency basis, but half the engineers in this area either retired when covid came along or they have shut their offices for the duration and I have been unable to reach any or get a call back.
Since the wooden members are exposed to Florida weather and over a pool which is by definition a damp place, I am thinking that replacing the 4x10 cedar headers with steel 4x9.5 box girders or I beams would be the best way to go since they can't warp or rot if protected from rust. The house was built in 1991 and it seems these wooden beams should have lasted longer than they have for such important load bearing structural members. Wood might be cheaper but by how much? Is it worth it if the job just has to be done in another 35 or 40 years?
By the way, the open span between the support columns is 12' 8" on center of the columns. So, the important load bearing house side would require 3 beams/girders to replace the rotton ones. And god I hope none of the trusses going into the walls inside have to be replaced. I think I would have to walk away if that were the case. But it is all going to be acedemic if I cannot find a working engineer in the next couple weeks.
How long was this particular beam again? Thanks.
Fantastic! The Prep as usual more then 50% of the project.
Big Question how and where did you find a Lift Rental Company or Did your Steel Vendor supply those Beam Lifts.?
Brilliant Staging and Engineering Rob ...
Any place that rents reachlifts, forklifts and such should have them. I use A to Z Rentals in Arizona.
Joe Daq yes they supplied it all - cost
@@ConcordCarpenter
Thanks Rob, I'm in the Philadelphia Venue and deal with More equipment Rental Companies then I can remember. But the ONLY people that I've ever seen using those type lifts have been Riggers an Haulers and or Steel/Iron guys doing the the Rough stuff in the High Rises in Center City Philly...
From what I see Your Crew does Outstanding Work and Workmanship.
Thanks Again, You and your crew have influenced a large number of purchases Especially the Safety Kits with a tourniquet in each truck . Thanks Joe D
I am planning to remove a wall that carries a load of my ceiling joists only, the engineering specifies a 2 Ply LVL 2x9-1/2" 14 feet, I was planning to buy 2 2x12" conversational lumber instead(Home Depot), the LVL costs 5x more in my city, any toughs or tips?
Omg i loveeee it. Thank you so much for sharing 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 any info about the costs please?
Steel beams are awesome! (Why did you have to pack the beam with 3 layers of wood though, was it not possible to bring the joists in to only one, that way the joists would also “sit” on the steel beam itself?)
No the hangers wont fit- you have to extend past flange
finally someone with common sense and joist hangers will fit if not that's why GOD made chizels
Wow great explanation! Thanx!
Really well done... Great details down to each screw.... I have series of joists sagging(slanting) all the way from the bearing/exterior wall to my sagging beam. It's a distance of about 13 feet. Is it possible that joists could sag that far a distance without something else being wrong? Thanks, Rob (My sagging beam is deflected by 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch.) Thanks, Rob
I'm actually removing a column in my basement, that has 2 floors above plus the attic, we need the space for a pool table. Almost done with relocating the working on the girder.
Great work, how did you manage to move the beam from the cables to the top of the jack? thank you for sharing