Every time I watch one of your climbing videos, the more convinced I am that I need to keep my feet firmly on the ground! Thankfully our PA mountains don’t require anything but being in shape.
Maybe you actually just have to try it once... There's a lot to consider, but once you have the foundational knowledge it's certainly more dangerous looking than it actually is.
That redundancy is something that frustrates me. I tend toward over redundant with some things and I think that’s due to my initial introduction years ago
I would say to look at the safety ratings and figure out the pound rating (225 pounds per kn), then divide by 10. Take a third off of the rope rating for knots. Find your weakest component. If you are that weight or less you have at least a 10 to 1 safety rating, which leaves lots of room for error and loading. You generally want to make sure you are redundant with anchors, and I would really just rely on the math after that.
At 3:00 you are showing the exact depiction of tri-loading that is show in every single carabiner instruction manual. They clearly tell you NOT to do this. If you choose to blatantly disregard the safety instructions than maybe it IS a good idea to use two carabiners. An oval biner is proven to be less affected by tri-loading while many others will break at half the MBS when the load is far from the spine. They are strongest along the spine and weakest near the nose. On the other hand, it's still strong enough and I would probably use the anchor as is.
Thanks for pointing that out. Although the instructions generally show tri-loading warnings at a larger angle I do agree that you have a valid point to consider. The other options here using two carabiners, tying an overhand on a Bight, using a magic x type self equalizer, or even using a rigging plate. The rigging plate would be overkill for a single person but addresses that concern. I'm consistently trying to decide how much information to share about my thoughts going into it. I acknowledge that pulling at any angle like this scenario will create tri-loading and also consider the severity of that effect when setting up my anchors.
that's a pretty acute angle to call "tri-loaded". I shoot for 60 degrees or less on a TR, but will accept 90 degrees if unavoidable. Like Matt says, 120 degrees is the max because at that point, each branch is loaded to 100%.
0:37--A
1:35--D
2:04--D
2:37--R
3:38--E
4:49--S
6:04--S
Every time I watch one of your climbing videos, the more convinced I am that I need to keep my feet firmly on the ground! Thankfully our PA mountains don’t require anything but being in shape.
Maybe you actually just have to try it once... There's a lot to consider, but once you have the foundational knowledge it's certainly more dangerous looking than it actually is.
Good information! Keep those videos coming!
Thanks Kevin. I'm working on some more while also waiting for the snow to melt so I can film some others.
Cool! I learned it as SRENE, strong, redundant, equalized, no extension
I haven't heard that one. That covers a lot of them anyway.
That redundancy is something that frustrates me. I tend toward over redundant with some things and I think that’s due to my initial introduction years ago
I would say to look at the safety ratings and figure out the pound rating (225 pounds per kn), then divide by 10. Take a third off of the rope rating for knots. Find your weakest component. If you are that weight or less you have at least a 10 to 1 safety rating, which leaves lots of room for error and loading. You generally want to make sure you are redundant with anchors, and I would really just rely on the math after that.
At 3:00 you are showing the exact depiction of tri-loading that is show in every single carabiner instruction manual. They clearly tell you NOT to do this. If you choose to blatantly disregard the safety instructions than maybe it IS a good idea to use two carabiners. An oval biner is proven to be less affected by tri-loading while many others will break at half the MBS when the load is far from the spine. They are strongest along the spine and weakest near the nose. On the other hand, it's still strong enough and I would probably use the anchor as is.
Thanks for pointing that out. Although the instructions generally show tri-loading warnings at a larger angle I do agree that you have a valid point to consider. The other options here using two carabiners, tying an overhand on a Bight, using a magic x type self equalizer, or even using a rigging plate. The rigging plate would be overkill for a single person but addresses that concern. I'm consistently trying to decide how much information to share about my thoughts going into it. I acknowledge that pulling at any angle like this scenario will create tri-loading and also consider the severity of that effect when setting up my anchors.
that's a pretty acute angle to call "tri-loaded". I shoot for 60 degrees or less on a TR, but will accept 90 degrees if unavoidable. Like Matt says, 120 degrees is the max because at that point, each branch is loaded to 100%.