HI Kevin I hope the email fines you and your family Well . This is Doug (63) I just want to say thank you very much it was worth every minute watching It took me some time as I was taking notes from the teacher . Great Job !!!!!!!!!!! Doug.
Kevin, great article. I have a W22 chassis and I have a rear axle leak from that inner seal. Looking at your video and looking at my setup I will have to take the leaf spring ubolt off in order to remove the caliper in order to remove hub assembly.
Wifes name and pic. Mark here. Thanks a bunch for the great video, lots of great detail . I too have only done brakes on smaller vehicles so I watched your video to get an overview. I dig that huge pneumatic gun. My diesel pusher has 4 wheel disc like yours not air brakes. Thanks again. Peace
Great video as always, at 68, that's a little more than I would want to tackle, but if I had to have it done, I would want you, or someone like you to do it...
Kevin - great video!! One suggestion for the HWH jacks cleaning - HWH recommends using WD-40 to clean off the polished surface to remove dirt & grime. Also - using a WD-40 bottle with the flexible sprayer you are supposed to angle that up under the top lip - where the polished piston slides up - and spray there to help remove dirt & debris which may have accumulated up under the lip there. Finally do not wipe the pistons totally free of WD-40 - leave a light coating to help lube the seals when they retract. I now do this regularly on my Winnebago W22 chassis, and find that my jacks always come up quickly - proving that the pistons are now clean and lubricated. Thanks for all the tips as well. Very much appreciated.
Thanks for the update but I got my advice from a local guy who has been selling and rebuilding hydraulic jacks for 40 years he says nowhere in his shop will you find a can of WD-40 because it will over long term use dry out the seals. I had a jack that would not retract and he told me to lather it in transmission fluid because we got transmission fluid already on the backside of the seal and that will soften the packing soften the seal it will start to retract again so I've been doing that for 5 years and I've never had any more problems with that Jack thanks for watching.
Thank you Kevin for the details of this video. I do work on my own cars. Never think about doing this on a W22 because of its size. Ow watching this I believe you gave me the confidence to do it right my self. My name is Arbi I’ll send you a text tomorrow. Please help me with manuals and specs. 2006 W22 is what I have.
Great video, Fixing to get into this. I see this was 5 years ago but wondering if you had the numbers for the Timken bearings and races. i can't find this stuff on the net and Workhorse has some of this out of stock on the W numbers.
Instead of that monstrous air wrench, would you recommend a Lug Nut Wrench Torque Multiplier tool? They give you a 58:1 torque ratio, getting those nuts off a WHOLE lot easier. Plus your normal torque wrench will now handle the reduced load (with a little math). Under $100 on Amazon.
You should be able to use thick wall 4" PVC pipe. That is what I use to install my hub and axle seals. Its a perfect fit, then I use a block of wood on top.
Wow, great video, thanks for doing this, your right about doing things yourself, making sure it done right. That was an awesome idea abut using the dent puller to bend the locking tab
Kevin, what service manuals did you purchase? I bought the 2005 Workhorse \Suspension manual and the Brake manual online from Ultra RV Products but the maintenance routines are not in the manual. If it wasn't for watching your video I wouldn't have known about the preloading of the wheel bearing to 200 ft/lbs then releasing 1 turn then torquing to 50ft/lbs then backing off. Thanks again for the video!
Kevin- Super Video, I have came across several of your videos and although they may be long, but you have a way in capturing my attention because your extra attention to details are greatly appreciated, at least by me. We just purchased a used W22 (WFG32V) RV and doing some upgrading, I noticed few days that I got an oil leak on the front driver wheel, I tool it a part and noticed that the rear seal is leaking, so I watched this video and learned a lot from your experience and I am willing to attempt it. I was wondering where you get your parts and although many references shows that W22 and W24 Chassis are the same, I noticed that your wheels are 22.5 while mine are 19.5 and was wondering where can I go to get the service manual for the W22. Great job on the video.
My workhorse manual says I have a p32 w22 chassis. But it seems that it looks like your w24 all the same hardware and doesn't look like other W22 videos. I don't know what parts to buy Also where did you get the rear axle 3 and half inch but remover for rear hub.
Awesome video Kevin! Just failed a MO state inspection due to rr inner wheel seal leaking. Referencing this video will surely get me through this project. Woke up to a -7 ° this morning. Think I'll wait till next week when it will be at least in the 40s to do this project. Can you send me copies of the invoices for any part numbers I my need, if you still have available. BTW, how long did this project take? Thank you for your time for making this video & sharing.
Great video, We took our motorhome out yesterday to empty tanks and I noticed a smell from the driver side rear and I think it is because of brakes not fully releasing. Do you have the electric brake system for emergency and do you think that would be my problem.
Would u say its really dangerous to drive with those rotors like that another 3 to 4 times? Before changing them just too expensive at the local rv shop but want to make another 2-3 trips and pads are at 60%
Kevin I have a W22, it's a 2002 winnebago sunrise, is everything the same as what you showed in your video compared to a W24? Also, what site did you go to print out all the info you had?
Dios Mio, I hired a mobile mech (San Diego Truck and Trailer) to replace a rotor on my w22. Failed immediately. "Chad" a real prince, told me to f-off, he is not going to fix it... Now the bearings are cooked. I am out pads and seals and his labor. Brazels has been fantastic, I sent them a ton of pics, between them and you, I am not on my own. I do my own work, we have talked before about the tech2, but the brakes intimidated me -and- I could not get the lugs off until I found a $60 torque multiplier on Amazon; works like magic. I have an m18 Fuel impact rated 650#; junk then an HF Earthquake 1200#; nada.. I also picked up this 3/4 650# torque adapter use with a breaker bar, it works... Tomorrow is the day. I have the time, I have the confidence from you and Allan and I cant do much worse than Chad (@ 120/hr) Wish me luck, appreciate you!
@@ktoutdoor it was serendipity that I caught the outer fr/pass caliper dragging on its glide pins checking tire pressure before heading out. I recently had new tires put on, rotors/pads looked fine, about 2-3mm remaining on the pads wear indicator. The wheels fell off, nearly literally, when the mech specd the National Seal 370150A instead of OEM, which were readily available at two chevy dealers in San Diego. As I unravel this failure, the National seal does not use an "axle saver" Running theory: mech did not remove the factory axle saver asper National's one-page pictograph instructions. Now its kick-the-can between San Diego Truck and Trailer (not a real company) and San Diego Friction. SDTT: SD Friction sold the wrong parts. SD Friction: mech installed them wrong... Here is the thing: This is only properly damage, but could have resulted in loss of life had the bearings seized and the wheel fell off. San Diego Truck and Trailer -- Chad NoLastName is not licensed for auto repair, has no liability insurance, no fictitious business name registered with the county. Dion Trucking referred me to Chad a former employee. California, like most states, is a comparative negligence state. My sister in law and her mother were killed a couple of years ago by a dump truck, even though they ran a stop sign on a rural road in MN, it was determined the truck had inadequate brakes, seven figure settlement. I did not vet the mech because of my relationship with Dion Trucking. Serendipity again, no one was hurt, this is nothing more than an inconvenience. I learned a lesson, background checks on everyone before I hire them. Parts are 2-day air from Brazels, all will be revealed today when the hub asm comes off... Thanks for your support!
@@joshuaholdread9932 W8000036 W8000036 - Front Inner Wheel Hub Seal 2 W8003312 W8003312 - Front Outer Gasket For Oil Hub Cap 2 W8001157 W8001157 - Rear Wheel Inner Bearing Seal 2 I got my parts here www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8001157-Rear-Wheel-Inner-Bearing-Seal
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.7 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2rPGOyKs0VE/mqdefault.jpg)
HI Kevin I hope the email fines you and your family Well .
This is Doug (63) I just want to say thank you very much it was worth every minute watching
It took me some time as I was taking notes from the teacher .
Great Job !!!!!!!!!!!
Doug.
Call me if you have any questions my cell phone number is 606-875-0125 Kevin
Awesome video i dont have this chassis i have the F53 but i still enjoyed your video my friend.
@@johnnygonzales3211 thank you. It was a big job to take on in my driveway. But brakes are still working great.
@@ktoutdoor That's awesome
VERY NICE write up! Kevin. Very thorough job. Well done. Thank you for the quality video.
Thank you for the kind words. And thanks for watching.
Kevin, great article. I have a W22 chassis and I have a rear axle leak from that inner seal. Looking at your video and looking at my setup I will have to take the leaf spring ubolt off in order to remove the caliper in order to remove hub assembly.
Wifes name and pic. Mark here. Thanks a bunch for the great video, lots of great detail . I too have only done brakes on smaller vehicles so I watched your video to get an overview. I dig that huge pneumatic gun. My diesel pusher has 4 wheel disc like yours not air brakes. Thanks again. Peace
If you have any questions just text or call 606-875-0125 Kevin
Great video as always, at 68, that's a little more than I would want to tackle, but if I had to have it done, I would want you, or someone like you to do it...
Thank you for the kind words
Kevin - great video!! One suggestion for the HWH jacks cleaning - HWH recommends using WD-40 to clean off the polished surface to remove dirt & grime. Also - using a WD-40 bottle with the flexible sprayer you are supposed to angle that up under the top lip - where the polished piston slides up - and spray there to help remove dirt & debris which may have accumulated up under the lip there. Finally do not wipe the pistons totally free of WD-40 - leave a light coating to help lube the seals when they retract. I now do this regularly on my Winnebago W22 chassis, and find that my jacks always come up quickly - proving that the pistons are now clean and lubricated.
Thanks for all the tips as well. Very much appreciated.
Thanks for the update but I got my advice from a local guy who has been selling and rebuilding hydraulic jacks for 40 years he says nowhere in his shop will you find a can of WD-40 because it will over long term use dry out the seals. I had a jack that would not retract and he told me to lather it in transmission fluid because we got transmission fluid already on the backside of the seal and that will soften the packing soften the seal it will start to retract again so I've been doing that for 5 years and I've never had any more problems with that Jack thanks for watching.
Thank you Kevin for the details of this video. I do work on my own cars. Never think about doing this on a W22 because of its size. Ow watching this I believe you gave me the confidence to do it right my self. My name is Arbi I’ll send you a text tomorrow. Please help me with manuals and specs. 2006 W22 is what I have.
Awesome yes you can do it!! my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
AWESOME VIDEO. Thank you. great info. WOW! GREAT JOB.
Thanks for watching it was a learning experience...
Great video, Fixing to get into this. I see this was 5 years ago but wondering if you had the numbers for the Timken bearings and races. i can't find this stuff on the net and Workhorse has some of this out of stock on the W numbers.
Yes I do text me your email address. My cell phone number is 606-875-0125
great job. Lots of good information.
Thanks for watching Ed
Doing any job in our rigs is best insurance, that's things done right.
Amen
Instead of that monstrous air wrench, would you recommend a Lug Nut Wrench Torque Multiplier tool? They give you a 58:1 torque ratio, getting those nuts off a WHOLE lot easier. Plus your normal torque wrench will now handle the reduced load (with a little math). Under $100 on Amazon.
Of coarse using a torque multiplier would make more since I only used the giant impact because I all ready had it. I need to get me one and try it.
You should be able to use thick wall 4" PVC pipe. That is what I use to install my hub and axle seals. Its a perfect fit, then I use a block of wood on top.
Wow, great video, thanks for doing this, your right about doing things yourself, making sure it done right. That was an awesome idea abut using the dent puller to bend the locking tab
Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Very Informative and Interesting. Is there a list of suppliers anywhere?
Text me your email address I will send you all my files my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
Well when it comes time for mine I'll take it to a shop
Yep. this video convinced me. Not a DIY project with my resources.
Kevin, what service manuals did you purchase? I bought the 2005 Workhorse \Suspension manual and the Brake manual online from Ultra RV Products but the maintenance routines are not in the manual. If it wasn't for watching your video I wouldn't have known about the preloading of the wheel bearing to 200 ft/lbs then releasing 1 turn then torquing to 50ft/lbs then backing off. Thanks again for the video!
Text me your email address I will send link to my manuals.
My cell number is 606-875-0125 Kevin.
Kevin- Super Video, I have came across several of your videos and although they may be long, but you have a way in capturing my attention because your extra attention to details are greatly appreciated, at least by me. We just purchased a used W22 (WFG32V) RV and doing some upgrading, I noticed few days that I got an oil leak on the front driver wheel, I tool it a part and noticed that the rear seal is leaking, so I watched this video and learned a lot from your experience and I am willing to attempt it. I was wondering where you get your parts and although many references shows that W22 and W24 Chassis are the same, I noticed that your wheels are 22.5 while mine are 19.5 and was wondering where can I go to get the service manual for the W22. Great job on the video.
I think we already talked but if not and I can be of any help my cell is 606-875-0125 Kevin I have some manuals you may like
My workhorse manual says I have a p32 w22 chassis. But it seems that it looks like your w24 all the same hardware and doesn't look like other W22 videos. I don't know what parts to buy
Also where did you get the rear axle 3 and half inch but remover for rear hub.
Give me a call 606-875-0125 Kevin
Look at the vin # LIKE 5B4MPA the 6th digit = chassis 5=P32 6=W22 A=W24
33:00 PREACH !!!
Awesome video Kevin! Just failed a MO state inspection due to rr inner wheel seal leaking. Referencing this video will surely get me through this project.
Woke up to a -7 ° this morning. Think I'll wait till next week when it will be at least in the 40s to do this project.
Can you send me copies of the invoices for any part numbers I my need, if you still have available.
BTW, how long did this project take?
Thank you for your time for making this video & sharing.
Files on the way
Link to seal www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8000276-W20-W22-Rear-Hub-Inner-Seal
Thank you!!
Your welcome , call me if you have any questions 606-875-0125 Kevin
Good job! I actually watched the whole thing! I'm guessing you don't have any real close neighbors to hear you clanging about at 1:30 AM? :)
Well I sorta do , but I think they are getting used to it. Thanks for watching, It was a big job for sure But i feel it was done right.
What size sockets?
Sorry but I don't remember I try to point out what tools I'm using in my new videos
Great video, We took our motorhome out yesterday to empty tanks and I noticed a smell from the driver side rear and I think it is because of brakes not fully releasing. Do you have the electric brake system for emergency and do you think that would be my problem.
Sounds like a sticking brake rotor give me a call or a text I will help you trouble shoot it. My cell 606-875-0125 Kevin Caudill
Would u say its really dangerous to drive with those rotors like that another 3 to 4 times? Before changing them just too expensive at the local rv shop but want to make another 2-3 trips and pads are at 60%
Can you send me some pictures ? my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
Kevin I have a W22, it's a 2002 winnebago sunrise, is everything the same as what you showed in your video compared to a W24? Also, what site did you go to print out all the info you had?
I be-leave your brakes will be different text my cell 606-875-0125 I will hook you up on the manuals
Dios Mio, I hired a mobile mech (San Diego Truck and Trailer) to replace a rotor on my w22. Failed immediately. "Chad" a real prince, told me to f-off, he is not going to fix it... Now the bearings are cooked. I am out pads and seals and his labor. Brazels has been fantastic, I sent them a ton of pics, between them and you, I am not on my own. I do my own work, we have talked before about the tech2, but the brakes intimidated me -and- I could not get the lugs off until I found a $60 torque multiplier on Amazon; works like magic. I have an m18 Fuel impact rated 650#; junk then an HF Earthquake 1200#; nada.. I also picked up this 3/4 650# torque adapter use with a breaker bar, it works... Tomorrow is the day. I have the time, I have the confidence from you and Allan and I cant do much worse than Chad (@ 120/hr) Wish me luck, appreciate you!
Call or text me 606-875-0125 if you need any help.. what caused the failure of the rotor ? stuck caliper? bearings to tight ?
@@ktoutdoor it was serendipity that I caught the outer fr/pass caliper dragging on its glide pins checking tire pressure before heading out. I recently had new tires put on, rotors/pads looked fine, about 2-3mm remaining on the pads wear indicator. The wheels fell off, nearly literally, when the mech specd the National Seal 370150A instead of OEM, which were readily available at two chevy dealers in San Diego. As I unravel this failure, the National seal does not use an "axle saver" Running theory: mech did not remove the factory axle saver asper National's one-page pictograph instructions. Now its kick-the-can between San Diego Truck and Trailer (not a real company) and San Diego Friction. SDTT: SD Friction sold the wrong parts. SD Friction: mech installed them wrong... Here is the thing: This is only properly damage, but could have resulted in loss of life had the bearings seized and the wheel fell off. San Diego Truck and Trailer -- Chad NoLastName is not licensed for auto repair, has no liability insurance, no fictitious business name registered with the county. Dion Trucking referred me to Chad a former employee. California, like most states, is a comparative negligence state. My sister in law and her mother were killed a couple of years ago by a dump truck, even though they ran a stop sign on a rural road in MN, it was determined the truck had inadequate brakes, seven figure settlement. I did not vet the mech because of my relationship with Dion Trucking. Serendipity again, no one was hurt, this is nothing more than an inconvenience. I learned a lesson, background checks on everyone before I hire them. Parts are 2-day air from Brazels, all will be revealed today when the hub asm comes off... Thanks for your support!
@@surfride101 Thats why I believe in doing it yourself...
Kevin, where did you get the service manual for this project?
Text me your email address and i will send to you my cell # 606-875-0125 Kevin
Where do find that socket for the rear? What size?
I borrowed it from a local truck repair shop I think it was over 3" or 4" if you find out the size I will add it to the notes below video.
,@@ktoutdoor I found it could be 3 1/4 or 3 1/2. Still looking
@@ktoutdoor Found NAPA sells them $30 with the account. But can't find the seal in town
@@joshuaholdread9932
W8000036 W8000036 - Front Inner Wheel Hub Seal 2
W8003312 W8003312 - Front Outer Gasket For Oil Hub Cap 2
W8001157 W8001157 - Rear Wheel Inner Bearing Seal 2
I got my parts here
www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8001157-Rear-Wheel-Inner-Bearing-Seal
it is your break wair tab it sings when there low pads
Its been a while I don't think I remember seeing them on the brake pads . they are very thick .
What was your total cost for all the rotors, pads, bearings and seals?
text me you email address and I will send you my invoices with part numbers and sources my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
What is the spec for the hub bearings
Text me your email address and I will send you my invoice for the bearings my cell 606-875-0125 Kevin
their is your problem is your air compressor is not sufficient
I have a larger one now.
@@ktoutdoor that will help