Thank you. I appreciated your counsel on setting the shims from the hinge side of the jamb. I also appreciate your time and skill AND you produced the video WITHOUT any background soundtrack. THANK YOU!!!!
Great stuff. A little tip for leveling the door. If you put a level mark on each side of RO then measure to floor it will give you the height difference to cut your bottoms. Where you put the mark doesn't matter you just need the difference. If the hinder side is 1/4 more than the latch you cut an extra 1/4 off the latch side. Then when you place the door it is level.
Yep. Or buy a laser which is much faster at checking the flooring and rough framing. I also like to set my laser up on the hinge side and use a framing square against the header of the door to ensure that it is square and the n shim both sides of the 2x4 so the door sits square in its opening.
Nice, I will have to install my first door here soon as well (30X80) for a basement utility closet, but don't see it taking more than an hour since it'll be a pre-hung door, such as in this video. I also installed all the framing so I know everything will be level.
Thanks for this video. I just followed to a tee and hung my first door in under an hour. Lol. Great video! The initial shim level step in the front was something I didn’t see in other videos and I think is what made this project a bit easier. 👌👌👌
I have installed doors before but it’s always good to see what other ideas there are. I’m installing a lot of 8’ interior doors the next few days so I’ll be using these methods. I was doing all those except I don’t always pre install my shims and don’t just use the shim in one direction. I’ll be experimenting. Your correct multi tool is the best for cutting shims. Thanks for sharing!
I’m wanting to replace all the doors inside my home and I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. But after watching your video, it’s much more complicated than I thought. Thanks for sharing.
Great process! When you screw the door to the frame, try taking out a hinge screw in each one, replacing it with a long one for zero screw heads in the jamb.
Amazing video. What I really like in particular is the way you explain what 'could' be an issue in another instance, and then how you would overcome that. Absolutely amazing mate. Watching from the UK 👍🏽
Thank you for this video. It proved its usefulness to me while hanging an bathroom door yesterday. The frame was slightly bowed and about 3 mm off square on one side. Your advice helped me hang it properly. Cheers!
This is literally a perfect instructional video. Its rare when I watch a DIY video and don't feel the need to watch any other videos for additional tips! Thank you.
Trim carpenter for 20 years. This is exactly how I self-taught myself after thousands of doors- except a few details. I cut a shim pack in half with my miter saw, removing about 3/4" of the shims. This way I get double the shims out of a pack and never have to cut the shims when I'm done, because you get thick and thins ones. I also nail my shims exactly where the screw is on the hinges. (usually 13" and 72" from ground) This way I don't even have to put nails in my jam that I have to putty later, I just replace one short screw with a long one (keep it loose so you can tightening later if the house shifts). One screw through the strike plate is plenty.
I’m happy you made this video. I watched six other videos on how to place a hanging door and I was unsuccessful using all the techniques they recommended. Your techniques helped me hang three doors though! Thank you and keep up the great videos!
Use a deck trim screw that has reverse thread on the end. If margin is off turn screw. The treads hold the door. On the latch side I don't even shim it. The screw will hold it. Casing is what really holds it anyway. Solid core doors I shim complete both sides. Good video.
good informative video, I would disagree with the hing bind though, if you place a shim from both sides of a door their tapered angles cancel each other out, no matter if you push the hinge side shim in further than the other side shim, you could get the result you are looking for by adding 2 shims on the hinge side and one shim on the opposite side thereby giving the slight angle to eliminate hinge bind
My new ‘The Funny Carpenter’ t-shirt came in the mail the other day (super comfy btw..) So I decided to wear it today as I we are remodeling our kitchen. When my husband came home from work I was sanding our cabinets & he noticed the shirt and just starts cracking up! But then he was like “WTF Jen, where’s my shirt!?” 😂😂 Looks like I’ll be ordering him one as well! Ha!
I did remodel work for over 20 years and have hung a lot of doors. I wish I would have known your techniques with the shims and that air bag. Good stuff!
@@not-a-raccoon Funny,, When I was In Australia,, I really had to struggle to listen as to what the heck this oddly version of English was trying to say at times. Then ordering food at restaurant,, might want to really pay attention. Or just point at menu... lol. Cheers
Great tips , like always . I've only hung a few doors perfectly in my life . The others that aren't perfect still swing and close . I'm never to old to learn new techniques 👍
I have hung thousands of doors finding that there are ways unique with the rough opening and wall being off plumb. and also hanging doors on finish flooring. I just automatically pop the hinges so i can cut the bottom jambs to level. Then secure the hinge side and put the slab back and finish the latch side.
Nice video. Been using this procedure for 30yrs. One thing for sure you want to do first in our part of the country is pay attention to the type of door and the time of year your installing it. I've seen doors work perfectly until July when the humidity is high and the door won't close. If you're using using screws use Cedar shims, pine ones will split.
Some good stuff. I've hung a lot of doors too and I would add, instead of a 6' level, get yourself a 78" level. Most standard doors are 80". The 78" level is specifically designed for this purpose. Also, as mentioned previously, I use 1 long screw (long enough to grab framing) into the inner most screw hole (closest to the center of the jamb) in the upper hinge. One last recommendation, I use "trim head" screws through the jamb and shims, usually where the stop will be in order to cover the holes left by the screw heads. It makes adjusting simple. I only use nails after everything is swinging properly.
No need for a long level you only need to level where your upper and lower shims are...usually 72" off the ground so a 60" would even work. A lot of the time I won't even level the shims. Doors look better if they follow a wall that is out of plumb rather than your casing looking crooked just so you can say "I leveled it"
Pro tip, add 2.5% on to cost of the install for every score years of age for the house. If it's over 200 years old, let another contractor do it! If the house is like mine, pre-Revolutionary War, fix it with gasoline and matches. 🤣My Dad, brothers and I remodeled an early 1800's home in Boston years ago. We literally could not use a level on the doors and widows; everything needed to be done by eye to give the appearance of level. This house should have been turned into one of those road side attractions where water runs uphill.
LoL best advice in a comment I’ve seen in a while r/t pre revolutionary war homes. The historical allure vanishes in a hurry once you realize what you’ve gotten yourself into 🤑!
You can skip the gasoline , should be nice and dry by then. I've completely rebuilt some of the worst ancient decrepit garbage on planet Earth. Never again, unless time is UNLIMITED!
Your Dad knew his stuff. Ive written down every procedure in homebuilding as a reference to check as my memory isnt what it used to be. This is exactly how I install prehung doors. I would add 1 tiny detail - trim head screws after 16 gauge tac nailing - the trim head screws- you want the ones with the reverse threads up near the head. Use 2 1/2" length screws so that b4 you add casing you close the dr & check reveal all around between dr & jamb. Micro adjustments are now done with trim heads either in or out for a perfectly uniform gap all around between the 2.
always really appreicate showing what you're talking about. Like hinges and showing the hinge wobble. Or the door not hitting flush along the full jam and showing what you're talking about and how to tap in the bottom to get it lined up. A visual is a HUGE thing. Thanks!
I didn't think much of it but door installation is a pretty complexe trade, with two plan rotations to adjust and 3 translations. Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience and tips, who does that :) 👍
So I just hung 3 doors. Slabs not prehung. That long level is the key to the universe. Plus lining up shims and fat side toward hinges is another winner. And trim screws behind the door stop is magic. Why have I struggled for so long. Keep making awesome videos. I used to hate doors.
BAD BOY! Tools all over the new counter! No protection. LEANING your straight on the closet door in a tight hallway is asking for trouble. Door hanging was spot on! 👊
you did fine. not dumb . its very difficult to teach someone how when most people these days have trouble operating a standard screwdriver . you are giving me great incentive to get on with my next business. teaching home owners how to do these things on their own . after 30 years doing , its time to get paid for what i know, NOT, WHAT I DO..
One of the best door install videos that I've seen on youtube and I've watched a lot of them lately. Your tone of voice and slowed down work speed definitely helps ! Just subscribed and liked.
I had never hung a door in my life 2 years ago. I replaced 7 interior doors in my house with solid core pre-hung doors. I finally figured out the pre-nail the hinge side shims to the framing on door number 7. It's an awesome method. I highly recommend. I had to deal with twisted studs which made me have to shim the doors uneven in order to get the door jamb to not torque out of the rough opening when securing the jamb to the framing. I also had a lot of situations were the thickness of the studs + drywall seemed overly thick compared to the width of my jambs. I had to do quite a bit of "splitting the difference" and "drywall surgery" to make sure I would be able to install the door trim somewhat straight without huge gaps. Even then I still ended up having to take a hand planer to the back side of the door trim to thin it down on the drywall side so it could make it to the jamb side. The doors in the house previously had split jambs. Buying replacement doors with split jambs would have made my life a bit easier I'm sure. Also the solid core doors are much heavier than hollow core doors too.
if you are using 2 (or an equal amount per side ) opposing shims it does not change the bevel or twist of the jamb no matter which side you shove in further so that doesn't actually affect binding either way
Wow, I learned a lot from your tips. I've hung a few doors in the past, but they never turned out great, just functional. Watching your video I see things I overlooked before. Hopefully the next time I hang a door, I'll remember all your tips.
Thanks for a great video, and thanks for saying "plumb". I'm not a carpenter but it drives me crazy when people don't distinguish between level and plumb, especially with windows and doors, where level, plumb and square is everything!
The top and bottom are the "set"hinges. The center hinge is a "carrier" hinge. (Only carries the door weight from the jamb). You do not want to shim the center hinge. It should just free float. You can use a shim on the hinge side only (not stacked from opposing sides) in the center just to adjust the margin. This is the biggest mistake that even the most experienced carpenters make. Thanks for posting.
I am enjoying your channel. I like the hiding of some screws behind the strike plate. I also like to replace the inside hinge screws with 2.5 or 3 in rock screws.
Great video I learned a trick from a buddy he does use 15 ga finish nails to install door and removes hinges and puts screws underneath hinge he just does one at a time so that you don't have to take the door off
Nothing wrong there. It’s easy to see that you’ve set plenty of doors, and you also did a great good explaining the process. This us a great method to use, especially if you want to be efficient without sacrificing the quality of your work. Im not sure if I can set a door as fast as I used to, cuz my body won’t let me anymore. Doing piece work years ago, I’d use this same method and set anywhere from 20-25 doors and trim them out, in one day. Not a bad days work at $35 per door.
Excellent video. I feel like an idiot all the doors I’ve installed and never thought to pre-install the shims on the hinge side.. Good tip about the hinge bind as well, nice and clear. And the finishing head screws. 👍 Painters will love us. Btw- I’d be the first one in line to sign a petition to drop the useless word plumb from the English language. Everyone knows what we mean when we say level or they wouldn’t think to ‘correct’ it.
I've installed a bunch of interior doors you have some pretty good tips the only one that I wouldn't use is not putting shims on both sides of your door in so many cases I've found when using one and tightening the screws down will cause the door to twist and can cause problems with door reveal not looking good or door rubbing
/\ what he said. If the shims aren’t close to even on both sides, the frame will have room to move without the supportive backing. The uneven void will cause the frame to warp ever so slightly over time.
This is because you aren't nailing in the center of the shim. You are nailing above it or below it and it pulls the jam in or out above the shimmed area. You can fix this by hammering below or above the shim on the jam, but is best to nail where your shim is touch. If it is still crooked you can just shoot a nail through the jam without shimming it then use your hammer to pull or push the jam to where u want it.
Very informative video, thanks for sharing. The one most important detail I would like to add is to acclimate the doors in their new location at least 24 hours prior to the installation. Most of the time the door will move or twist to thier final climate.
Great explanation. Perfect timing because I have 2. custom ash prehungs to install. Now they’re exterior doors so my expectation for your next video is for you to rip out your front door and reinstall it for your audience. Go! 😉
His process is actually better used on exterior or heavy doors ..... depending on your situation there are several ways to hang a door , but this video is actually better served for "heavy doors" and is overkill for lightweight hollow core interior doors ..... However , on an exterior door with a threshold , you have to account for the threshold and may have to shim under it , and always caulk under it , if you want the door perfectly plumb ..... you might get lucky and it sits perfectly on the concrete (or whatever flooring) and all is well , no shims needed under ..... It usually works out okay like that but sometimes the concrete is a bit off ..... always put some caulking under the threshold and really once the door is in , you can add shims and screws to the sides , basically just pop it in the hole and go from there adjusting and shimming .... best to have two people OR put a block of wood on one side to keep the door from falling out or in while you work ...... someone or something needs to be on the opposite side while you work on the door so it doesn't fall out .... person , block of wood , whatever ..... I'd just put the door in THEN add shims as needed
@@shure46 Hey thanks for the detailed response. Yup, these doors are solid ash so they are very heavy…2 person job for sure. I’ve seen a door install a few times. I’ve watched countless videos. Looks straightforward enough but w my luck I’ll get the existing door out and will run into “some” issue and will end up with a huge hole in my house and a pissed wife! 😣
I have been doing finish carpentry for almost two decades and this is the best video I've ever seen on how to install an interior door. You covered pretty much every problem a DIYer might encounter (unlike the This Old House vid I saw once that made me want to slap somebody)
Right! Pretty much exactly my method of door installation. No more, no less. I was taught well. It's nice when you finally get it and don't need to struggle through it anymore. Plus, it can impress the ladies! Haha
Thank you for the great tips & tricks. This was the first time I have seen single wedges installed first. My total door experience is maybe 20 doors used to work for Sliding Co. Awesome really appreciate your video.
Just got done watching a "The Handyman" video and click on yours thinking it was another of his...then heard your voice and thought I'd skipped over to a parallel universe.
I ASKED AND I RECIVED THANKS BUD!!!! really loved the video, alsways love the small tips and tricks thank you so much bud i always learned so much because of you, have a great week🍻👀❤
Just wanted to say "thank you" for this video. My wife and I hung 7 interior and 3 bi-fold doors. I watched this video about 8 times before trying it and a couple times during. It was nice to understand the process. Suggestion, put out a video on hanging bi-folds. There is not a good one out there. I used things for this video to do it. A couple minor mistakes and I dare any one to point them out.
I like to prenail my casing on one side of my jam then I use the casing to nail it all level and get everything sitting nice. I have a tote of precut shims (flat not tapered) of various sizes. After I nail the casing off I shim with my precut shims and cedar shims (tapered) if required. I'll preassemble casing on the ground using miter bond, then nail it to my jam. This helps in keeping the jam square during install which just makes installing it that much easier. I use a cross line laser shot up the hinge side and top of the casing when I'm leveling. Don't even use a level anymore.
Very important to figure out the proper height off the floor! Know exactly what the finished floor will be if it's not installed. If it's an exterior door, you'll usually need to set it on plywood. You may have underlayment, tile, hardwood, LVP, engineered wood, linoleum, carpet, etc. Set your door too low and you might not have clearance for a door mat or rug. If your floors aren't perfectly level from one door to another, or have differentfloor finishes, you might end up with your door tops at different heights as well. I always tack small blocks to the opposite side of the opening so the door won't fall through, and automatically sits flush to the drywall. I've also used my three-plane laser instead of my 78" level, but I'm not entirely sold on it... Thinking to try the door-hanging clips as well.
Very well thought out video. I like to watch others and see if anyone has any better ways of doing things. I have been a joiner for 30+ years. If I was to add anything of importance would be, how to align a door frame. Dont rely on a level for this. Use your eyes. Stand back to one side of the door. Eye up the outside edge of one leg against the backside edge of the other leg. When both edges align all the way down both legs are aligned to each other. Now there can be situations where you can't get your head in a place to see. So in this situation use a very old school method and that is to screw 4 screws or tack 4 pins 2 in each leg on the wall face top and bottom and the same on the other side. Then use some string and make a cross in the center. Then when the 2 strings touch in the middle both legs are aligned to each other.
Very similar to how my dad taught me to install doors. Only difference he showed me was he “pre cuts” some roughly 3.5” long by 1.5” tall shims cut from 1/4” underlayment scraps or 1/8” underlayment scraps. We then use those to plumb the opening similar to what you did with the shims, just eliminates that taper that the shims have. Then we shim with taper shims from the “inside” of the door as needed to set the gaps/reveals. Good video tho!
Really appreciate your video! Next time you have an opportunity, it would be awesome to watch your method for double doors with a solid core. Omg man, I managed after putting in countless hours. I swore never again. 😢
Many ways to skin the cat, but "Installing Problem-free Pre-hung Doors" seems easier for me. It worked well even for my heavy wooden entry door. It seems more systematic, for example, when dealing with cross-leg. BTW, I like the tip about using finishing screws.
LOL...I was just going to tell you the difference between plumb and level, and then I say the ending. Good video. I always place a little dab of white glue on the shims, so they stay in place over the life of the door. I remember renovating a hotel with my dad when I was a kid, and my job was to remove the doors. I noticed that half of the shims were near the base of the doors because the cedar cracks, splits and falls to the bottom of the gap between the wall and the door. Cheers.
Wow Dude. Once again, I had no idea there was this much to know about this topic and I've hung about 7 doors. Definitely not an expert. I'd love to have beers with you and talk about home improvements. Hahaha.
Almost all door install videos show how to hang a hollow core interior door, which is pretty easy. The challenge is hanging an exterior door weighing 100 - 200 lbs so it opens and closes smoothly without groans, pops, or squeaks indicating your new door jamb is going to split in the near future.
Thank you. I appreciated your counsel on setting the shims from the hinge side of the jamb. I also appreciate your time and skill AND you produced the video WITHOUT any background soundtrack. THANK YOU!!!!
Never called myself a 'finish' carpenter but have installed hundreds of doors and your video was spot on!
Great stuff. A little tip for leveling the door. If you put a level mark on each side of RO then measure to floor it will give you the height difference to cut your bottoms. Where you put the mark doesn't matter you just need the difference. If the hinder side is 1/4 more than the latch you cut an extra 1/4 off the latch side. Then when you place the door it is level.
Yep. Or buy a laser which is much faster at checking the flooring and rough framing. I also like to set my laser up on the hinge side and use a framing square against the header of the door to ensure that it is square and the n shim both sides of the 2x4 so the door sits square in its opening.
Just installed my first interior door. Took half a day but it's pretty dang perfect thanks to your tips.... and I used most of them. Thanks!
I used hangers
Very fast and perfect
Nice, I will have to install my first door here soon as well (30X80) for a basement utility closet, but don't see it taking more than an hour since it'll be a pre-hung door, such as in this video.
I also installed all the framing so I know everything will be level.
That’s great!
Thanks for this video. I just followed to a tee and hung my first door in under an hour. Lol. Great video! The initial shim level step in the front was something I didn’t see in other videos and I think is what made this project a bit easier. 👌👌👌
I have installed doors before but it’s always good to see what other ideas there are. I’m installing a lot of 8’ interior doors the next few days so I’ll be using these methods. I was doing all those except I don’t always pre install my shims and don’t just use the shim in one direction. I’ll be experimenting. Your correct multi tool is the best for cutting shims. Thanks for sharing!
I’m wanting to replace all the doors inside my home and I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. But after watching your video, it’s much more complicated than I thought. Thanks for sharing.
Why do you only have 500+ likes...this was the best primer on how to hang a door! I love you, man...and that beard, it's epic.
Thanks Joe, I appreciate you checking out the video!
Me too excellent work
been doing doors for decades , your methods are spot on . seems like an other day at work to me , beating and kicking doors LOL.
Pre shim. You just changed my life.
This is a lifesaver! We installed my son's bedroom door but it's never been right. You've given me confidence to fix it. Thank you!
Great process!
When you screw the door to the frame, try taking out a hinge screw in each one, replacing it with a long one for zero screw heads in the jamb.
Thank you for taking out a door just to put it back for our viewing pleasure
Amazing video. What I really like in particular is the way you explain what 'could' be an issue in another instance, and then how you would overcome that. Absolutely amazing mate. Watching from the UK 👍🏽
Thank u
Thank you for this video. It proved its usefulness to me while hanging an bathroom door yesterday. The frame was slightly bowed and about 3 mm off square on one side. Your advice helped me hang it properly. Cheers!
I just bought my first house and moved into it today. Your videos may come in handy.
This is literally a perfect instructional video. Its rare when I watch a DIY video and don't feel the need to watch any other videos for additional tips! Thank you.
Trim carpenter for 20 years. This is exactly how I self-taught myself after thousands of doors- except a few details. I cut a shim pack in half with my miter saw, removing about 3/4" of the shims. This way I get double the shims out of a pack and never have to cut the shims when I'm done, because you get thick and thins ones. I also nail my shims exactly where the screw is on the hinges. (usually 13" and 72" from ground) This way I don't even have to put nails in my jam that I have to putty later, I just replace one short screw with a long one (keep it loose so you can tightening later if the house shifts). One screw through the strike plate is plenty.
You ever have a painter take the hinges off and screw up the door? Ugg
Finally someone that explains it perfectly instead of over complicating it and making it sound like your building a rocket
You have the quietest multi tool! Thanks for the video.
I’m happy you made this video. I watched six other videos on how to place a hanging door and I was unsuccessful using all the techniques they recommended. Your techniques helped me hang three doors though! Thank you and keep up the great videos!
Use a deck trim screw that has reverse thread on the end. If margin is off turn screw. The treads hold the door. On the latch side I don't even shim it. The screw will hold it. Casing is what really holds it anyway. Solid core doors I shim complete both sides. Good video.
good informative video, I would disagree with the hing bind though, if you place a shim from both sides of a door their tapered angles cancel each other out, no matter if you push the hinge side shim in further than the other side shim, you could get the result you are looking for by adding 2 shims on the hinge side and one shim on the opposite side thereby giving the slight angle to eliminate hinge bind
My new ‘The Funny Carpenter’ t-shirt came in the mail the other day (super comfy btw..) So I decided to wear it today as I we are remodeling our kitchen. When my husband came home from work I was sanding our cabinets & he noticed the shirt and just starts cracking up!
But then he was like “WTF Jen, where’s my shirt!?” 😂😂
Looks like I’ll be ordering him one as well! Ha!
Well this made my day🍻cheers and thanks for the support!
I did remodel work for over 20 years and have hung a lot of doors. I wish I would have known your techniques with the shims and that air bag. Good stuff!
The utility of an oscillating tool can never be over stated. I don't use mine very often, but when I do, I'm glad I bought it. Milwaukee M12 fuel ftw
Totally agree! For cabinet install the multi tool is magic!
Ya those things come in handy
I usually put judge side tight if Jack is plum an enough room for casing
@@seanmayo206 those are certainly all words... 🤔
@@not-a-raccoon
Funny,, When I was In Australia,, I really had to struggle to listen
as to what the heck this oddly version of English was trying to say at times.
Then ordering food at restaurant,, might want to really pay attention.
Or just point at menu... lol.
Cheers
Great tips , like always . I've only hung a few doors perfectly in my life . The others that aren't perfect still swing and close . I'm never to old to learn new techniques 👍
Thanks Eli, Thanks for checking out the vid and best wishes on the next door!
I have hung thousands of doors finding that there are ways unique with the rough opening and wall being off plumb. and also hanging doors on finish flooring. I just automatically pop the hinges so i can cut the bottom jambs to level. Then secure the hinge side and put the slab back and finish the latch side.
Nice video. Been using this procedure for 30yrs. One thing for sure you want to do first in our part of the country is pay attention to the type of door and the time of year your installing it. I've seen doors work perfectly until July when the humidity is high and the door won't close. If you're using using screws use Cedar shims, pine ones will split.
Could be a whole sermon just on this comment. Amazing how much doors move
Some good stuff. I've hung a lot of doors too and I would add, instead of a 6' level, get yourself a 78" level. Most standard doors are 80". The 78" level is specifically designed for this purpose. Also, as mentioned previously, I use 1 long screw (long enough to grab framing) into the inner most screw hole (closest to the center of the jamb) in the upper hinge. One last recommendation, I use "trim head" screws through the jamb and shims, usually where the stop will be in order to cover the holes left by the screw heads. It makes adjusting simple. I only use nails after everything is swinging properly.
No need for a long level you only need to level where your upper and lower shims are...usually 72" off the ground so a 60" would even work. A lot of the time I won't even level the shims. Doors look better if they follow a wall that is out of plumb rather than your casing looking crooked just so you can say "I leveled it"
Or
Save yrself some money and tape your 2 ft level to a metal straightedge
Pro tip, add 2.5% on to cost of the install for every score years of age for the house. If it's over 200 years old, let another contractor do it! If the house is like mine, pre-Revolutionary War, fix it with gasoline and matches. 🤣My Dad, brothers and I remodeled an early 1800's home in Boston years ago. We literally could not use a level on the doors and widows; everything needed to be done by eye to give the appearance of level. This house should have been turned into one of those road side attractions where water runs uphill.
LoL best advice in a comment I’ve seen in a while r/t pre revolutionary war homes. The historical allure vanishes in a hurry once you realize what you’ve gotten yourself into 🤑!
You can skip the gasoline , should be nice and dry by then. I've completely rebuilt some of the worst ancient decrepit garbage on planet Earth. Never again, unless time is UNLIMITED!
You are the funniest, coolest, carpenter ever!! Not to mention, ya know your stuff! I always enjoy and learn so much from your videos. 👍🏼😎🎯🏆
Wow, that’s appreciated! Thanks for the support:)
Your Dad knew his stuff. Ive written down every procedure in homebuilding as a reference to check as my memory isnt what it used to be. This is exactly how I install prehung doors. I would add 1 tiny detail - trim head screws after 16 gauge tac nailing - the trim head screws- you want the ones with the reverse threads up near the head. Use 2 1/2" length screws so that b4 you add casing you close the dr & check reveal all around between dr & jamb. Micro adjustments are now done with trim heads either in or out for a perfectly uniform gap all around between the 2.
always really appreicate showing what you're talking about. Like hinges and showing the hinge wobble. Or the door not hitting flush along the full jam and showing what you're talking about and how to tap in the bottom to get it lined up. A visual is a HUGE thing. Thanks!
I didn't think much of it but door installation is a pretty complexe trade, with two plan rotations to adjust and 3 translations. Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience and tips, who does that :) 👍
So I just hung 3 doors. Slabs not prehung. That long level is the key to the universe. Plus lining up shims and fat side toward hinges is another winner. And trim screws behind the door stop is magic. Why have I struggled for so long. Keep making awesome videos. I used to hate doors.
I appreciate the pride you have in your trade, thanks for the valuable lesson.
I appreciate that!
the best video about door instalation I've ever seen! Saved in favorites
i watched several videos on hanging doors and your video seemed to be most helpful. thank you.
Yeah, I say "level" when I mean "plumb" all the time.
After installing 700(!) doors, I bet you do know how to do it. Nice video.
Thanks Pete, yes for me level is just a catch all term:)
Great info! A sheetrock foot lift is super cheap and allows you to adjust if needed.
Exactly what i needed. Easy to follow, door is up and perfect.
Ya Buddy🍻
BAD BOY! Tools all over the new counter! No protection. LEANING your straight on the closet door in a tight hallway is asking for trouble. Door hanging was spot on! 👊
Listen!! When a door is installed properly it will make a distinct popping sound when you close it. Great vid!!😊
You need to do the Last 5 Seconds in every video, absolute Gold!
I’m really glad I watched to the end of the video because I was wondering if you were going to catch the level vs. plumb thing. You’re awesome bro!
Big difference isn't there!
Listen im a union carpenter I love how you did this 👏🏼 great job .
What great tips, like favoring the shims to the inside to prevent hinge binding problems.
I've hung hundreds of doors. This is a great tutorial.
Thanks buddy🍻cheers
You do know the ins and outs of hanging a door. Great job! Keep it up!
you did fine. not dumb . its very difficult to teach someone how when most people these days have trouble operating a standard screwdriver . you are giving me great incentive to get on with my next business. teaching home owners how to do these things on their own . after 30 years doing , its time to get paid for what i know, NOT, WHAT I DO..
So many wise tips in this; thanks for your help!
One of the best door install videos that I've seen on youtube and I've watched a lot of them lately. Your tone of voice and slowed down work speed definitely helps ! Just subscribed and liked.
Wow, thanks!
I had never hung a door in my life 2 years ago. I replaced 7 interior doors in my house with solid core pre-hung doors. I finally figured out the pre-nail the hinge side shims to the framing on door number 7. It's an awesome method. I highly recommend.
I had to deal with twisted studs which made me have to shim the doors uneven in order to get the door jamb to not torque out of the rough opening when securing the jamb to the framing. I also had a lot of situations were the thickness of the studs + drywall seemed overly thick compared to the width of my jambs. I had to do quite a bit of "splitting the difference" and "drywall surgery" to make sure I would be able to install the door trim somewhat straight without huge gaps. Even then I still ended up having to take a hand planer to the back side of the door trim to thin it down on the drywall side so it could make it to the jamb side.
The doors in the house previously had split jambs. Buying replacement doors with split jambs would have made my life a bit easier I'm sure. Also the solid core doors are much heavier than hollow core doors too.
Lol drywall surgery:). Notching/planing the casing in bad circumstances is an excellent solution.
Pre hung doors........
So you've still never hung a door!
@@sally6457 u seem fun
@@sally6457 Yes , I believe the term would be ... " INSTALLING" a pre-hung door.🙂
if you are using 2 (or an equal amount per side ) opposing shims it does not change the bevel or twist of the jamb no matter which side you shove in further so that doesn't actually affect binding either way
This helped me hang a door for the first time! Thanks so much!
Wow, I learned a lot from your tips. I've hung a few doors in the past, but they never turned out great, just functional. Watching your video I see things I overlooked before. Hopefully the next time I hang a door, I'll remember all your tips.
Thanks for a great video, and thanks for saying "plumb". I'm not a carpenter but it drives me crazy when people don't distinguish between level and plumb, especially with windows and doors, where level, plumb and square is everything!
The top and bottom are the "set"hinges. The center hinge is a "carrier" hinge. (Only carries the door weight from the jamb). You do not want to shim the center hinge. It should just free float. You can use a shim on the hinge side only (not stacked from opposing sides) in the center just to adjust the margin. This is the biggest mistake that even the most experienced carpenters make. Thanks for posting.
A big level and trim screws, nice!
I am enjoying your channel. I like the hiding of some screws behind the strike plate. I also like to replace the inside hinge screws with 2.5 or 3 in rock screws.
Will be trying these tips next week! Thanks!
Best wishes on your install
Great video I learned a trick from a buddy he does use 15 ga finish nails to install door and removes hinges and puts screws underneath hinge he just does one at a time so that you don't have to take the door off
Great video. I loved your outtake at the end
Thanks mate🍻
Nothing wrong there. It’s easy to see that you’ve set plenty of doors, and you also did a great good explaining the process.
This us a great method to use, especially if you want to be efficient without sacrificing the quality of your work.
Im not sure if I can set a door as fast as I used to, cuz my body won’t let me anymore. Doing piece work years ago, I’d use this same method and set anywhere from 20-25 doors and trim them out, in one day. Not a bad days work at $35 per door.
Excellent video. I feel like an idiot all the doors I’ve installed and never thought to pre-install the shims on the hinge side.. Good tip about the hinge bind as well, nice and clear. And the finishing head screws. 👍 Painters will love us.
Btw- I’d be the first one in line to sign a petition to drop the useless word plumb from the English language. Everyone knows what we mean when we say level or they wouldn’t think to ‘correct’ it.
I've installed a bunch of interior doors you have some pretty good tips the only one that I wouldn't use is not putting shims on both sides of your door in so many cases I've found when using one and tightening the screws down will cause the door to twist and can cause problems with door reveal not looking good or door rubbing
/\ what he said. If the shims aren’t close to even on both sides, the frame will have room to move without the supportive backing. The uneven void will cause the frame to warp ever so slightly over time.
This is because you aren't nailing in the center of the shim. You are nailing above it or below it and it pulls the jam in or out above the shimmed area. You can fix this by hammering below or above the shim on the jam, but is best to nail where your shim is touch. If it is still crooked you can just shoot a nail through the jam without shimming it then use your hammer to pull or push the jam to where u want it.
100%
Very informative video, thanks for sharing. The one most important detail I would like to add is to acclimate the doors in their new location at least 24 hours prior to the installation. Most of the time the door will move or twist to thier final climate.
Great explanation. Perfect timing because I have 2. custom ash prehungs to install. Now they’re exterior doors so my expectation for your next video is for you to rip out your front door and reinstall it for your audience. Go! 😉
His process is actually better used on exterior or heavy doors ..... depending on your situation there are several ways to hang a door , but this video is actually better served for "heavy doors" and is overkill for lightweight hollow core interior doors ..... However , on an exterior door with a threshold , you have to account for the threshold and may have to shim under it , and always caulk under it , if you want the door perfectly plumb ..... you might get lucky and it sits perfectly on the concrete (or whatever flooring) and all is well , no shims needed under ..... It usually works out okay like that but sometimes the concrete is a bit off ..... always put some caulking under the threshold and really once the door is in , you can add shims and screws to the sides , basically just pop it in the hole and go from there adjusting and shimming .... best to have two people OR put a block of wood on one side to keep the door from falling out or in while you work ...... someone or something needs to be on the opposite side while you work on the door so it doesn't fall out .... person , block of wood , whatever ..... I'd just put the door in THEN add shims as needed
@@shure46 Hey thanks for the detailed response. Yup, these doors are solid ash so they are very heavy…2 person job for sure. I’ve seen a door install a few times. I’ve watched countless videos. Looks straightforward enough but w my luck I’ll get the existing door out and will run into “some” issue and will end up with a huge hole in my house and a pissed wife! 😣
I have been doing finish carpentry for almost two decades and this is the best video I've ever seen on how to install an interior door. You covered pretty much every problem a DIYer might encounter (unlike the This Old House vid I saw once that made me want to slap somebody)
Right! Pretty much exactly my method of door installation. No more, no less. I was taught well. It's nice when you finally get it and don't need to struggle through it anymore. Plus, it can impress the ladies! Haha
Yes it can🍻
Thanks for the video saved me a lot of time
Glad it helped
Extremely informative. Great work.
been hanging doors for 22 year never heard of fitting the shims before the frame.. im going to have to give this a go
Thank you for the great tips & tricks. This was the first time I have seen single wedges installed first. My total door experience is maybe 20 doors used to work for Sliding Co. Awesome really appreciate your video.
🙏🏼
I knew you'd say install shims first lol. That is the best way to go. My uncle taught me that years ago.
Great video! I learned a couple new tricks that will help the next installs.
6:47 i just installed some pre hung doors and ended up using a drywall lifter that you step on and it worked well if you dont have a air bag
The constant camera angle changes in the intro absolutely killed me. Amazing
You are so weak and can be killed so easily.
That's the way I've always done it for 30 + years. 👍
Just got done watching a "The Handyman" video and click on yours thinking it was another of his...then heard your voice and thought I'd skipped over to a parallel universe.
Nice to see I installed my doors almost exactly like you. Thanks for the tips !
Good to hear buddy!
I ASKED AND I RECIVED THANKS BUD!!!! really loved the video, alsways love the small tips and tricks thank you so much bud i always learned so much because of you, have a great week🍻👀❤
Thanks Rushill! Have yourself a great weekend!🍻
Just wanted to say "thank you" for this video. My wife and I hung 7 interior and 3 bi-fold doors. I watched this video about 8 times before trying it and a couple times during. It was nice to understand the process. Suggestion, put out a video on hanging bi-folds. There is not a good one out there. I used things for this video to do it. A couple minor mistakes and I dare any one to point them out.
I like to prenail my casing on one side of my jam then I use the casing to nail it all level and get everything sitting nice. I have a tote of precut shims (flat not tapered) of various sizes. After I nail the casing off I shim with my precut shims and cedar shims (tapered) if required. I'll preassemble casing on the ground using miter bond, then nail it to my jam. This helps in keeping the jam square during install which just makes installing it that much easier. I use a cross line laser shot up the hinge side and top of the casing when I'm leveling. Don't even use a level anymore.
Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸
I loved this chim video! GREAT!! Thanks bro
Very important to figure out the proper height off the floor! Know exactly what the finished floor will be if it's not installed. If it's an exterior door, you'll usually need to set it on plywood. You may have underlayment, tile, hardwood, LVP, engineered wood, linoleum, carpet, etc. Set your door too low and you might not have clearance for a door mat or rug.
If your floors aren't perfectly level from one door to another, or have differentfloor finishes, you might end up with your door tops at different heights as well.
I always tack small blocks to the opposite side of the opening so the door won't fall through, and automatically sits flush to the drywall.
I've also used my three-plane laser instead of my 78" level, but I'm not entirely sold on it...
Thinking to try the door-hanging clips as well.
Very well thought out video. I like to watch others and see if anyone has any better ways of doing things. I have been a joiner for 30+ years. If I was to add anything of importance would be, how to align a door frame. Dont rely on a level for this. Use your eyes. Stand back to one side of the door. Eye up the outside edge of one leg against the backside edge of the other leg. When both edges align all the way down both legs are aligned to each other. Now there can be situations where you can't get your head in a place to see. So in this situation use a very old school method and that is to screw 4 screws or tack 4 pins 2 in each leg on the wall face top and bottom and the same on the other side. Then use some string and make a cross in the center. Then when the 2 strings touch in the middle both legs are aligned to each other.
Excellent points
Level, plumb, dumb..I love it. Thank you for your videos
Thanks buddy, I appreciate you watching to the very end!
Very similar to how my dad taught me to install doors. Only difference he showed me was he “pre cuts” some roughly 3.5” long by 1.5” tall shims cut from 1/4” underlayment scraps or 1/8” underlayment scraps. We then use those to plumb the opening similar to what you did with the shims, just eliminates that taper that the shims have. Then we shim with taper shims from the “inside” of the door as needed to set the gaps/reveals. Good video tho!
thank you so much for sharing your insights! very effective.
An excellent video, thank you. It would be nice to see a video for stalling double closet doors.
Really appreciate your video!
Next time you have an opportunity, it would be awesome to watch your method for double doors with a solid core. Omg man, I managed after putting in countless hours. I swore never again. 😢
Hey Kudos for posting this! Helped me to fix previous mistakes :)
Many ways to skin the cat, but "Installing Problem-free Pre-hung Doors" seems easier for me. It worked well even for my heavy wooden entry door. It seems more systematic, for example, when dealing with cross-leg. BTW, I like the tip about using finishing screws.
LOL...I was just going to tell you the difference between plumb and level, and then I say the ending. Good video. I always place a little dab of white glue on the shims, so they stay in place over the life of the door. I remember renovating a hotel with my dad when I was a kid, and my job was to remove the doors. I noticed that half of the shims were near the base of the doors because the cedar cracks, splits and falls to the bottom of the gap between the wall and the door. Cheers.
Good job fella.
Great video! Very informative. Thank you
Wow Dude. Once again, I had no idea there was this much to know about this topic and I've hung about 7 doors. Definitely not an expert. I'd love to have beers with you and talk about home improvements. Hahaha.
Almost all door install videos show how to hang a hollow core interior door, which is pretty easy. The challenge is hanging an exterior door weighing 100 - 200 lbs so it opens and closes smoothly without groans, pops, or squeaks indicating your new door jamb is going to split in the near future.