I just discovered your channel and I absolutely Love your presentation style! You have a very pleasant presence, voice and your videos are both to the point but also relaxed and enjoyable. Thank you for making such good content!
I remember being on elegoo original resin maroon red. Upgraded to abs resin and much better. Never could get behind resin mixing formulas. But couple years ago I switched to phrozen 4k resin and love it. Works better than abs in flexibly and stronger, smell is fine and not strong. I've dropped many models with phrozen 4k and have yet to break one. Not that I haven't broken them in my hands or stubborn supports lol
@@GrayScalpMiniatures have you been testing it? I'm hesitant to buy abs like resin cause I feel comfortable with phrozen 4k resin's result, do the details are in big differences?
Don't know if you are still using the elegoo curing station, but you are suppose to remove the brown pelicule on the rotating plate. I think it lets more UV access under the models if you do.
The Lychee slicer has community settings for a myriad of printer/resin settings accessible from inside of the program. Some of the folks I talk to on Discord groups for the subscriptions I'm on are swearing by the Siraya Fast Navy Grey. Good to know that the Elegoo abs-like is fairly decent.
Siraya is definitely going to be the next thing I try out. Hearing some great stuff about mixing with the ABS Like resin, so will be interested to see how that turns out.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I would suggest getting a rubber or silicone scraper for use in the vat, as there's a chance that the plastic one might scratch the fep. This is doubly useful if you mix resin in the vat or if there's a failed print.
I found the ABS is far better myself especially for miniatures with protruding weapons and bits. Just that bit more resilient and no noticeable detail loss
I have tried this resin on a bigger subject (project enclosure) and it resulted in complete mess - geometry got largely compromised, and in support places bumps on the surface appeared. I think this is because this resin is more flexible, there is a limit on how much tension it can withstand during printing. My guess you can reliably print only small objects with it , especially if supports are used.
That seems unfortunate! I've printed off some relatively big stuff with it and had good results. However, I haven't printed anything huge so that could be it.
Personally I have a good bit of it, It is stronger yes but I have found it more "goopy" is the best way to describe it, I have noticed on a couple models that parts of it just stick more when cleaning, especially in tight corners. I like water washable resin alot lately :-)
I just got that Anycubic UV Tough Resin it is flexible aswell, I'm very impressed with it! The test cube just squashes need alot to break it! I've done a similar mix 9 parts normal basic to 1 part tough same as what the tenatious is but think it needs a 9 pts to 3 this is the next test but what I have learnt recently is flexible resins done give as sharp detail as basic and detail doesn't print whare supports are attached I'm new to the 3D printing it's been a month but everyday at it testing printing etc and just picked up the mono 2 that I have to say is excellent what an upgrade from the mono 4k! I'm going to try this elagoo abs like in the mono 2 with tenatious next
Cheers for the video, got my Sub. I actually just received my Tenacious but am yet to mix it with any of my standard Elegoo grey as i use it also as my main resin on Mars 2 Pro.
Way late to the party here but, You should look into the Elegoo active carbon fan forced filters. I use 1 in my Photon Mono X and smell NOTHING. They're like $25 for 2 with replacement carbon packs on Amazon. You'll be glad ya did.
A great video, I have mixed flexible and standard resin together. I printed a whole load of pike armed troops. To be honest I am going go cut them off and replace with something else. I might give this a try for future projects.
Just delving into your content and curious if you have a video on the odor of different resin brands? That is the biggest deal for me because all seem to be decent to great quality.
😂😂😂 Been a while since I heard that! Tyson Fury retires and makes a 3d printing and wargaming TH-cam channel, that's a headline I look forward to seeing.
I think you should use some of the calibration files out there to sort your settings. I use the standard gray and use settings of 5.4 for exposure and it works fine on my mars pro, my mars 2 I've gone to 2.4 with great details and Saturn 1.8 looks amazing. Anything higher created a 'fatter' look to details from over-exposure something I didn't notice until I used the calibration print files and just printed it starting with default and then lowering the exposer by .5 until prints started to lose quality or start failing. From there you can find an in-between. you may like, or settings set up for prints that don't have a lot of detail but youed like it to print faster, you can be looser with such settings. it also saves resin and you don't have to waste printing a while figure to see if your settings work.
Thanks for the tip. I recently switched to the Mars 3 and had a good play with the settings and calibration and was really impressed by the results you can get when tinkering!
@@GrayScalpMiniatures as Mars 3 I recommend trying 2.0 for exposure if still using the gray. While I don't have the 3 yet I've seen other reviews of it that showcase prints weith the calibration files and it shows good detail all the way down to 1.5. Though it also does depend on the resin batch. I've gotten a bad batch recently that just does not want to work and is always 'goopy' details, but another bottle same type prints fine.
Ah that's really frustrating to hear about the bad batch. Off the top of my head I think that's where I'm at with my settings. I've moved the exposure lower when printing at 0.02 layer height, and the results were really good, especially on larger smooth surfaces like armor.
Good video. Subscribed. I'm sitting here experimenting with the eSun hard tough resin for the first time. Pretty nice stuff. I guess I'll have to get this resin to compare. The eSun hard tough has really no smell, but then again I'm just getting over COVIID, so it might have a smell that I can't sense.
I tried a bottle of eSun when I couldn't get my normal Elegoo standard grey here in Canada and never again - stunk the whole house up - print quality was no better or worse, but that smell...was glad to see the end of that bottle! :)
I buy Anycubic Tuogh resin, and its very good, the key is Not Overcure , with just 4-6 minutes in the uv curing machine(i got creality whash and cure, i got very good "falldown resist" minis and models in general, but over curing , make them more and more strong and lees flexible , about 1 hour of uv exposition makes them br re akable
The thing I’ve found easiest is the hot water trick. The video I made on it recently has models made with this resin and I’ve found the supports come off really nicely. Sometimes they leave a tiny bit of a sliver of support but it comes off easily enough.
I've read good things about it for convenience, but a lot of people have talked about it being more brittle and lacking some detail. Because I have the wash and cure machine, the cleaning process isn't too much of a hindrance for me, so I've not given it a go.
Im curious, does it have high friction? When i press slightly my finger and slide on resin prints made from standard resin, it feels a bit sticky or high friction. Id need parts with lower friction..
@@GrayScalpMiniatures hmm good to hear, I use a wash and cure machine, but im still learning so its also possible I'm doing something along the way wrong. I'll just have to try the ABS like myself I guess. It looks promising atleast!
Hard to answer that because of the printer I was using at the time. I currently use it on my Elegoo Saturn 2 and my exposure is around 3 seconds depending on what I'm printing.
Sorry for the slow reply! Here's what I'm using at the moment on the Mars Pro: Bottom exposure 60s, Exposure time 7s, Bottom lift speed 90, lifting speed 60, retract speed 150. Most of those are the default that showed up when I started. Layer height is 0.05 as I've not had much success in playing with that yet.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures Care to update us on the current settings with your Mars 3 (as I'm about to order a Mars 3 Pro with a bottle of the grey ABS like).
Do you use the recommend exposure times from the bottle? 8sec and 60sec seems rather hight I think. I've also noticed supports fusing on my 28mm models, I wonder how 2.5sec exposure with 35sec on the bottom might go.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures ok cool, I tired 2.5sec and 35secs and this didn't work out for the Mars 2 Pro, seems the bottle suggestions are about correct although the printing times are longer than I think hey should be. Thanks for getting back.
Ah that's a shame! My printers have been moved out to the garage in a grow tent so I've finally escaped the smells, although I've not found a really bad one yet.
I would have prefered you to do destructive testing.... this is the thing that would REALLY let people know if abs is worth it... now im on to another video to get the "real" answer about the actually differences. :(
That’s a fair comment. I’m currently printing the same mini multiple times to test with multiple resins. They’ll be going through different heights of drops tests to see which one comes out the best. Should be fun and destructive.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures perfect. I will tune in for that =) one suggestion if you don't mind. Might you drop test a few that are over cured also? Thanks.
I use ABS like all the time and it doesn't smell at all? You want to try some Anycubic resin if you want a smell. Its my go-to resin for printing mini's, must have gone trough 10l of it. The exposure time on the bottle is a joke I use 1.8-2s exposure on a mono printer. Plus its one of the cheapest resins out there atm.
I’ve either gotten used to it after a few bottles, or had a weird bottle because I don’t really smelly it that much any more. Also on 2s exposure now which works wonders
You are not the only one who thinks resin printed miniatures are brittle. They are as fragile as whiskers of glass. In my opinion, completely inappropriate for their intended purpose as play-pieces that will be handled and that may need to be transported. I am now extremely wary of any designs that show only one leg, or a wisp of ectoplasm, being the only point of contact with the base.
I've gotten better results, but like you, I'm always wary of a single thin point of contact for the base. I just had some awesome cavalry that I printed that only had one horse leg on the base, and they all ended up sagging under the weight so now I need to go back in and build up the bases to offer more support 😂 All part of the fun I guess, but hopefully something that improves over time.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I posted that comment before watching the whole video. I found your conclusion that it produced a more flexible mini encouraging. Though the smell did seem to be an issue. I haven’t yet pulled the trigger on buying a 3D printer. My opinion is based on a range of purchases I’ve made through Etsy (love Artisan Guild’s designs too). I just worry about the environmental impact of bringing it in-house. Where does the waste go? Are people just pouring ethanol+resin down the sink? Does it need ducted ventilation to be safe? How much waste plastic does it produce? Is the UV properly shielded. I’m just not decided whether the freedom + low cost is worth it. Haven’t balanced that calculation in my head yet. Just being a bit of a Cassandra. Very interesting content anyway. Thank you.
Dude don’t print indoors with no ventilation. This stuff releases a lot of VOCs as does the IPA. Not good to be breathing in. ALWAYS have the windows open and have a fan blowing out of one at the least
I just discovered your channel and I absolutely Love your presentation style! You have a very pleasant presence, voice and your videos are both to the point but also relaxed and enjoyable.
Thank you for making such good content!
Thanks for that! Glad you’re enjoying the content 😄
I remember being on elegoo original resin maroon red. Upgraded to abs resin and much better. Never could get behind resin mixing formulas. But couple years ago I switched to phrozen 4k resin and love it. Works better than abs in flexibly and stronger, smell is fine and not strong. I've dropped many models with phrozen 4k and have yet to break one. Not that I haven't broken them in my hands or stubborn supports lol
Ah stubborn supports, I know them well lol. Might have to give that a try and see how it compares!
@@GrayScalpMiniatures have you been testing it? I'm hesitant to buy abs like resin cause I feel comfortable with phrozen 4k resin's result, do the details are in big differences?
Don't know if you are still using the elegoo curing station, but you are suppose to remove the brown pelicule on the rotating plate. I think it lets more UV access under the models if you do.
thank you lol I had no idea
The Lychee slicer has community settings for a myriad of printer/resin settings accessible from inside of the program. Some of the folks I talk to on Discord groups for the subscriptions I'm on are swearing by the Siraya Fast Navy Grey.
Good to know that the Elegoo abs-like is fairly decent.
Siraya is definitely going to be the next thing I try out. Hearing some great stuff about mixing with the ABS Like resin, so will be interested to see how that turns out.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I would suggest getting a rubber or silicone scraper for use in the vat, as there's a chance that the plastic one might scratch the fep. This is doubly useful if you mix resin in the vat or if there's a failed print.
I swear by ABS like for minis, my Amazon order history will vouch for that too 🙂
This is exactly what I was searching for, thank you!
I found the ABS is far better myself especially for miniatures with protruding weapons and bits. Just that bit more resilient and no noticeable detail loss
Uncle jessys vroom setting works amazing with this resin.
I have tried this resin on a bigger subject (project enclosure) and it resulted in complete mess - geometry got largely compromised, and in support places bumps on the surface appeared. I think this is because this resin is more flexible, there is a limit on how much tension it can withstand during printing. My guess you can reliably print only small objects with it , especially if supports are used.
That seems unfortunate! I've printed off some relatively big stuff with it and had good results. However, I haven't printed anything huge so that could be it.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures did you use standard exposures for your printer and standard speeds ?
Personally I have a good bit of it, It is stronger yes but I have found it more "goopy" is the best way to describe it, I have noticed on a couple models that parts of it just stick more when cleaning, especially in tight corners. I like water washable resin alot lately :-)
Thanks for the comment! Yeah that feels like a really good word to describe it. Even pouring it in, it just feels goopy.
Great vid! I play tabletop games and have a standard resin mini that breaks. Looking forward to trying this out now.
It would be fun to print game pieces in the standard resin and the ABS and play a game between the two to see how durable each side help up.
this looks actually promising for functional prints.
I just got that Anycubic UV Tough Resin it is flexible aswell, I'm very impressed with it! The test cube just squashes need alot to break it! I've done a similar mix 9 parts normal basic to 1 part tough same as what the tenatious is but think it needs a 9 pts to 3 this is the next test but what I have learnt recently is flexible resins done give as sharp detail as basic and detail doesn't print whare supports are attached I'm new to the 3D printing it's been a month but everyday at it testing printing etc and just picked up the mono 2 that I have to say is excellent what an upgrade from the mono 4k! I'm going to try this elagoo abs like in the mono 2 with tenatious next
so what settings did you use on the printer as iv had no luck at all with it
Before priming, a difference in how translucent the plastic is could make a difference in perceivable detail.
also what one is better for smell u mentioned another grey one to use?
Cheers for the video, got my Sub. I actually just received my Tenacious but am yet to mix it with any of my standard Elegoo grey as i use it also as my main resin on Mars 2 Pro.
Be interested to hear how it goes for you if you do mix it. I've got some Siraya that I need to test out soon!
Way late to the party here but, You should look into the Elegoo active carbon fan forced filters. I use 1 in my Photon Mono X and smell NOTHING. They're like $25 for 2 with replacement carbon packs on Amazon. You'll be glad ya did.
Nice tip. I've looked at them from time to time, but never pulled the trigger. Doing a video on them might be a good 'excuse' to buy some 😂
OR just have proper safety and use a respirator
A great video, I have mixed flexible and standard resin together. I printed a whole load of pike armed troops. To be honest I am going go cut them off and replace with something else. I might give this a try for future projects.
Sounds good! I really like the ABS like resin. Still using it today after months, and it just works so well.
Just delving into your content and curious if you have a video on the odor of different resin brands? That is the biggest deal for me because all seem to be decent to great quality.
Genuinely thought you were Tyson Fury!
😂😂😂 Been a while since I heard that! Tyson Fury retires and makes a 3d printing and wargaming TH-cam channel, that's a headline I look forward to seeing.
Is this water washable or does it need IPA to clean it ? i have been using Elegoo water washable really liking it so far.
I think you should use some of the calibration files out there to sort your settings. I use the standard gray and use settings of 5.4 for exposure and it works fine on my mars pro, my mars 2 I've gone to 2.4 with great details and Saturn 1.8 looks amazing. Anything higher created a 'fatter' look to details from over-exposure something I didn't notice until I used the calibration print files and just printed it starting with default and then lowering the exposer by .5 until prints started to lose quality or start failing. From there you can find an in-between. you may like, or settings set up for prints that don't have a lot of detail but youed like it to print faster, you can be looser with such settings. it also saves resin and you don't have to waste printing a while figure to see if your settings work.
Thanks for the tip. I recently switched to the Mars 3 and had a good play with the settings and calibration and was really impressed by the results you can get when tinkering!
@@GrayScalpMiniatures as Mars 3 I recommend trying 2.0 for exposure if still using the gray. While I don't have the 3 yet I've seen other reviews of it that showcase prints weith the calibration files and it shows good detail all the way down to 1.5. Though it also does depend on the resin batch. I've gotten a bad batch recently that just does not want to work and is always 'goopy' details, but another bottle same type prints fine.
Ah that's really frustrating to hear about the bad batch. Off the top of my head I think that's where I'm at with my settings. I've moved the exposure lower when printing at 0.02 layer height, and the results were really good, especially on larger smooth surfaces like armor.
You should try the though Flexible one . It should in theory make miniatures similar to the ones in the tabletop games
Yeah there's such a huge range to try out. I'm going to pick up a few more and start doing a challenge to see what ones come out best for minis.
is this abs like 1 or v2.0 see is v3.0 out now as well
will abs-like resen react to acetone?
Such a snap tease.
Good video. Subscribed. I'm sitting here experimenting with the eSun hard tough resin for the first time. Pretty nice stuff. I guess I'll have to get this resin to compare. The eSun hard tough has really no smell, but then again I'm just getting over COVIID, so it might have a smell that I can't sense.
Not sure if it was just the first batch or if I’m just used to it now, but the smell doesn’t seem as noticeable now.
I tried a bottle of eSun when I couldn't get my normal Elegoo standard grey here in Canada and never again - stunk the whole house up - print quality was no better or worse, but that smell...was glad to see the end of that bottle! :)
I buy Anycubic Tuogh resin, and its very good, the key is Not Overcure , with just 4-6 minutes in the uv curing machine(i got creality whash and cure, i got very good "falldown resist" minis and models in general, but over curing , make them more and more strong and lees flexible , about 1 hour of uv exposition makes them br re akable
I just got this resin and it is strong...but the supports are almost impossible to remove.....any tips ??
The thing I’ve found easiest is the hot water trick. The video I made on it recently has models made with this resin and I’ve found the supports come off really nicely. Sometimes they leave a tiny bit of a sliver of support but it comes off easily enough.
Do you ever use water washable only ? trying work out what resin to go for it be for miniature models and like to make bikes and tanks
I've read good things about it for convenience, but a lot of people have talked about it being more brittle and lacking some detail. Because I have the wash and cure machine, the cleaning process isn't too much of a hindrance for me, so I've not given it a go.
I have tried a couple. I find the detail is good but after you finish curing them they are brittle it is fun however to play with the clear ones.
Im curious, does it have high friction? When i press slightly my finger and slide on resin prints made from standard resin, it feels a bit sticky or high friction. Id need parts with lower friction..
I haven't noticed any friction or stickyness. My old prints used to be like that until I used a wash and cure machine. They always felt tacky.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures hmm good to hear, I use a wash and cure machine, but im still learning so its also possible I'm doing something along the way wrong.
I'll just have to try the ABS like myself I guess. It looks promising atleast!
I’ve really enjoyed using it and haven’t gone back to my previous elegoo resin. For minis it’s just so nice having that extra flex.
I've been using it for years and never noticed any smell
What exposure time do you use?
Hard to answer that because of the printer I was using at the time. I currently use it on my Elegoo Saturn 2 and my exposure is around 3 seconds depending on what I'm printing.
What settings are you using if you don’t mind me asking
Sorry for the slow reply! Here's what I'm using at the moment on the Mars Pro: Bottom exposure 60s, Exposure time 7s, Bottom lift speed 90, lifting speed 60, retract speed 150. Most of those are the default that showed up when I started. Layer height is 0.05 as I've not had much success in playing with that yet.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures Care to update us on the current settings with your Mars 3 (as I'm about to order a Mars 3 Pro with a bottle of the grey ABS like).
thanks for this!
Do you use the recommend exposure times from the bottle? 8sec and 60sec seems rather hight I think. I've also noticed supports fusing on my 28mm models, I wonder how 2.5sec exposure with 35sec on the bottom might go.
I did when I got this, but now I’ve switched printers to the Elegoo Mars 3 and my exposure is 2 secs and it works really well.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures ok cool, I tired 2.5sec and 35secs and this didn't work out for the Mars 2 Pro, seems the bottle suggestions are about correct although the printing times are longer than I think hey should be. Thanks for getting back.
Great video!
great to see tyson fury trying new stuff for when he retires
You can only take so many punches before you head to a gaming table instead!
I'm using abs translucent resin and it comes out sticky
I haven't used it myself, but I've heard the translucent stuff can be a bit tricky with exposure times.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I'll try and up my exposure thanks for the comment
I've been getting awesome results with Anycubic ABS-like Resin+, but man, it STINKS. I can't print with it in the house.
Ah that's a shame! My printers have been moved out to the garage in a grow tent so I've finally escaped the smells, although I've not found a really bad one yet.
I would have prefered you to do destructive testing.... this is the thing that would REALLY let people know if abs is worth it... now im on to another video to get the "real" answer about the actually differences. :(
That’s a fair comment. I’m currently printing the same mini multiple times to test with multiple resins. They’ll be going through different heights of drops tests to see which one comes out the best. Should be fun and destructive.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures perfect. I will tune in for that =) one suggestion if you don't mind. Might you drop test a few that are over cured also? Thanks.
I use ABS like all the time and it doesn't smell at all? You want to try some Anycubic resin if you want a smell.
Its my go-to resin for printing mini's, must have gone trough 10l of it. The exposure time on the bottle is a joke I use 1.8-2s exposure on a mono printer.
Plus its one of the cheapest resins out there atm.
I’ve either gotten used to it after a few bottles, or had a weird bottle because I don’t really smelly it that much any more. Also on 2s exposure now which works wonders
Ok, 2 second exposure down from 7? That seems like it would make the printer lightening fast.
I have a Mars 3, can mine do that?
@@narceron360 Absolutely should be able to. Let us know how it goes for you.
You are not the only one who thinks resin printed miniatures are brittle. They are as fragile as whiskers of glass. In my opinion, completely inappropriate for their intended purpose as play-pieces that will be handled and that may need to be transported. I am now extremely wary of any designs that show only one leg, or a wisp of ectoplasm, being the only point of contact with the base.
I've gotten better results, but like you, I'm always wary of a single thin point of contact for the base. I just had some awesome cavalry that I printed that only had one horse leg on the base, and they all ended up sagging under the weight so now I need to go back in and build up the bases to offer more support 😂 All part of the fun I guess, but hopefully something that improves over time.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I posted that comment before watching the whole video. I found your conclusion that it produced a more flexible mini encouraging. Though the smell did seem to be an issue. I haven’t yet pulled the trigger on buying a 3D printer. My opinion is based on a range of purchases I’ve made through Etsy (love Artisan Guild’s designs too). I just worry about the environmental impact of bringing it in-house. Where does the waste go? Are people just pouring ethanol+resin down the sink? Does it need ducted ventilation to be safe? How much waste plastic does it produce? Is the UV properly shielded. I’m just not decided whether the freedom + low cost is worth it. Haven’t balanced that calculation in my head yet. Just being a bit of a Cassandra. Very interesting content anyway. Thank you.
Why on earth would you ever use the settings on the bottle rather than do a proper exposure test for a fair and decent comparison?
Dude don’t print indoors with no ventilation. This stuff releases a lot of VOCs as does the IPA. Not good to be breathing in. ALWAYS have the windows open and have a fan blowing out of one at the least
Creative, unique! -----Like it so much! Don't get left behind - Promo-SM !
very distracting backgound music.. made me give up