I’ve had my cheapie chinesium Pressure Test kit for just under a year now It was all over the place in readings until I removed the Dunlop style non-return valves from the fittings. In terms of use, it was accurate enough to the point that I could set my WUR to a point where my car has been running “good enough” I’d love to get a factory Bosch gauge, but for anyone in the market, I’d rate the cheap sets “better than nothing” ------------ Also, after you made that vid on 95, I started giving it a go, and for Perth atleast I concur, my car has been running smoother, starting easier, and seems to have a bit more get-up and go
i think 98 is over rated crap to be honest. It sells slowly and probably is already significantly degraded by the time you buy it. Stick with 95 it runs my m104’s fricken awesome.
@@ChillCruizer-mt1oy what car and what motor? Unless you’re running really advanced timing/high comp engine, 95 should be plenty for our old benzes If it’s a newer model with knock sensors obviously it’ll roll back the timing and reduce power, but if it’s a shitty old M116 like mine it’ll pre-detonate until the cows come home unless you put better fuel in or change the timing. If your ecu isn’t detecting knock and changing running conditions, octane rating should not affect power. It might just be placebo you’re feeling 🤷♂️
For what it’s worth, I have my M104.980 and M117.968 running at ~ .55 BAR Differential pressure, set by turning the adjustment screw you mentioned. This is way above spec, but with a KAT spec engine, it is still in the control range of the closed loop lambda control. I set it this high to tune the open loop lambda at WOT (measured with a wide band air/fuel) sensor to the magic 12.6:1 or λ=.85. Acceleration is very strong, closed loop operation works well too. The richness of the car in open loop mode is overall a bit richer, but comparing .4 to .55, the difference is not that much. Thanks for posting!
on my red cars m104, i didn’t even bother with the guages and just gave it 1 full turn. With the understanding its an illegal configuration of 3.2 and a bit litres and a 3.0 ecu (dont know that it makes much difference with KE anyway) but that things a rocket. It probably is .55 or even more. The ecu still has the ability control it closed loop too.
I also bought my fuel pressure gauge for KE jetronic in the U.S. I got it years ago but it's still available. It's an S&G Tool Aid 33865. I also confess to a certain nerviness about parts availability. I keep a new EHA , air flow potentiometer and OVP just in case. Whenever I can find other fully functional, vital parts 2nd hand for a good price, I swoop. Have 2 ECU's, 2 Mas relays, an EZL and a fuel distributor stored up for a rainy day.
pretty sure the EZL’s havent been made in years. There may be some in stock somewhere in the the world but the original design when examined uses now obsolete silicon. I doubt they would spend the money to redesign it for modern production. Ecu is also legacy stuff no longer in production.
Where could I found that manual you´re using? Thank you for your videos, I am restoring a '91 300CE-24 and I find them very helpful. I have the same problem of poor acceleration. Cheers from Spain.
My car was slow and had terrible mpg. Plugs black. Adjusted the "forbidden" screw and now it's like a different car to drive. Previous owner had need fiddling around with the screw and it was totally of factory specs.
Hello, I own a W124 230E m102 and I suspect I’m having the same issue with the EHA valve, where did you find a new one? I can only find used components online, but intrigued to know if you can still find new ones, mine is leaking and the smell of raw fuel is very strong, so will give it a try and replace it (messed with the 2mm Allen key to adjust it although unfortunately I live in an island where finding equipment and components are almost impossible, I do not own a pressure fuel test gauge)
My 190e 2.3-16 is plagued with this problem. It was perfect, until a mechanic misdiagnosed my issues and started to mess with the adjustment screw. Now I can’t get it back to proper specs.
Ever since I bought my 300e 24v ... I've been on this journey with you. Thanks for all the videos 👍
I’ve had my cheapie chinesium Pressure Test kit for just under a year now
It was all over the place in readings until I removed the Dunlop style non-return valves from the fittings.
In terms of use, it was accurate enough to the point that I could set my WUR to a point where my car has been running “good enough”
I’d love to get a factory Bosch gauge, but for anyone in the market, I’d rate the cheap sets “better than nothing”
------------
Also, after you made that vid on 95, I started giving it a go, and for Perth atleast I concur, my car has been running smoother, starting easier, and seems to have a bit more get-up and go
i think 98 is over rated crap to be honest. It sells slowly and probably is already significantly degraded by the time you buy it. Stick with 95 it runs my m104’s fricken awesome.
@MMWA-DAVE i notice a significant performance loss on 95, especially when it hits 5500rpm
@@ChillCruizer-mt1oy what car and what motor?
Unless you’re running really advanced timing/high comp engine, 95 should be plenty for our old benzes
If it’s a newer model with knock sensors obviously it’ll roll back the timing and reduce power, but if it’s a shitty old M116 like mine it’ll pre-detonate until the cows come home unless you put better fuel in or change the timing.
If your ecu isn’t detecting knock and changing running conditions, octane rating should not affect power. It might just be placebo you’re feeling 🤷♂️
For what it’s worth, I have my M104.980 and M117.968 running at ~ .55 BAR Differential pressure, set by turning the adjustment screw you mentioned. This is way above spec, but with a KAT spec engine, it is still in the control range of the closed loop lambda control. I set it this high to tune the open loop lambda at WOT (measured with a wide band air/fuel) sensor to the magic 12.6:1 or λ=.85. Acceleration is very strong, closed loop operation works well too. The richness of the car in open loop mode is overall a bit richer, but comparing .4 to .55, the difference is not that much.
Thanks for posting!
on my red cars m104, i didn’t even bother with the guages and just gave it 1 full turn. With the understanding its an illegal configuration of 3.2 and a bit litres and a 3.0 ecu (dont know that it makes much difference with KE anyway) but that things a rocket. It probably is .55 or even more. The ecu still has the ability control it closed loop too.
I also bought my fuel pressure gauge for KE jetronic in the U.S. I got it years ago but it's still available. It's an S&G Tool Aid 33865. I also confess to a certain nerviness about parts availability. I keep a new EHA , air flow potentiometer and OVP just in case. Whenever I can find other fully functional, vital parts 2nd hand for a good price, I swoop. Have 2 ECU's, 2 Mas relays, an EZL and a fuel distributor stored up for a rainy day.
pretty sure the EZL’s havent been made in years. There may be some in stock somewhere in the the world but the original design when examined uses now obsolete silicon. I doubt they would spend the money to redesign it for modern production. Ecu is also legacy stuff no longer in production.
How is your benz running now?
Thanks for the info...just ordered a new spendy EHA valve for my W126...just rolled over 399,000 miles....
any improvement?
Where could I found that manual you´re using?
Thank you for your videos, I am restoring a '91 300CE-24 and I find them very helpful. I have the same problem of poor acceleration.
Cheers from Spain.
Exactly how many winds the weight of Mercedes the 560
My car was slow and had terrible mpg. Plugs black.
Adjusted the "forbidden" screw and now it's like a different car to drive.
Previous owner had need fiddling around with the screw and it was totally of factory specs.
Hello, I own a W124 230E m102 and I suspect I’m having the same issue with the EHA valve, where did you find a new one? I can only find used components online, but intrigued to know if you can still find new ones, mine is leaking and the smell of raw fuel is very strong, so will give it a try and replace it (messed with the 2mm Allen key to adjust it although unfortunately I live in an island where finding equipment and components are almost impossible, I do not own a pressure fuel test gauge)
My 190e 2.3-16 is plagued with this problem. It was perfect, until a mechanic misdiagnosed my issues and started to mess with the adjustment screw.
Now I can’t get it back to proper specs.
Clockwise or Counter Clockwise to enrich it??
Terrific video
Rejoice! Original content is back!!
Thanks again for the video!
If you interested, there is a German company that sells this cit online or on EBay.
I could send you the link.
Sir..how much usd..for merc w124 2.6cc