Engine idles but stalls or has no power when hitting gas pedal W126 W124 R107 R129 EHA adjustment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- This quick fix will help address this issue for cars with KE Jetronic. One big assumption is however, that there are no vacuum leaks on the inlet boot and the many vacuum hoses. The other big assumption is that the dual fuel pumps are in working order and are both running. Furthermore all fuel filters, distribution block screen, and the fuel return line is clean and have no restrictions.
The EHA Electro Hydraulic Actuator on the KE Jetronic has a small Allen head pressure adjustment that can be adjusted to address the stall or no power when you hit the gas pedal.
You saved me so much stress. Nothing worked, watched this video, done it, everything works. Just amazing!
Glad it helped! Thx
These videos really are a great help. Not many mechanics in my area know how to work ke jetronic. Very thankful
Glad this helped you. All the best.
You're a legend Ralph, easy fix, car is running like a dream. keep up the good work.
Thank you! I am glad it worked for you.
Thank you very much. I just adjusted the AHU valve on my 1992 500 SL and it worked perfectly. I had it at the dealership and they told me I needed to replace the entire fuel distribution system.
Wow! Great save. Unfortunately, even most dealerships no longer have the technicians or tools for 30 year old cars. Sadly even the new distributor assembly would have had to be adjusted in the same fashion you just did it yourself. All the best.
Mann that happened to me for that simple problem had to cough up R11k (ZAR)
@@abdulwaaghiedadams6205 Wow. that is almost 700USD and therefore pretty expensive. All the best!
Working on my 190e with the 103. after it sat for years. It needed pumps and a fuel distributor but bogged and wouldn’t rev up… This did the trick !! I’ll do a proper pressure test eventually but this fixed the problem….Thank You !!
Nice work! Glad it helped.
Ralph! You are a life savior! Followed the instructions in this video. And worked 100%%%%%%%%. Will have to readjust it to less half of the quarter advised so I can find a sweet spot and also to save some fuel. Love you man!!!
Nice job. In a few weeks there will be a video featuring how to use a fuel pressure gauge kit. Congratulations.
Ralph if you were beside me I’d give you a hug what a legend, savage video. My Betsy is running perfect 👍 thank you so much
Glad it helped you!
Australia here, thats very informative as I am slowly working out the details of the KE Jetronic. How it works,what part does what. I own a 380 SEC that has ongoing fuel problems.
The 380 has a K Jet not KE Jet. Here is a video of fellow MBCA club member Pierre Hedari. This may help sort out some of your injection challenges. th-cam.com/video/_G5qLK5qlXc/w-d-xo.html
Good day sir. This fix you show is a game changer. It helped my new to me 1991 300sl. It helped so much. Thank you.
Glad it worked! Happy driving. That is a nice car.
You have just fixed my Mercedes Benz 190E 2.0 thankyou so much for your great video sir! and hallo from Denmark :D
Great job! All the best to you
@@straybenzes Thanks! I will be watching your videos if there is something I need to know about my 190E. all the best to you
@@frederikhberg1308 Thanks, same to you!
Thanks Ralf am Edgar from Kenya. My 124 has lost power but now am gonna do it myself thanks you are God sent
Oh wow. Glad to hear that this will be useful.
Thank you, Ralph. This helped me a lot. I think I did an extra quarter turn, and the car is running rich on fuel. I wasn't sure my allen key was the correct one. Lol.
Your videos are awesome and very helpful.
That can happen really easy. It is best to invest in a pressure test kit so you can adjust it properly. It makes a huge difference performance and fuel consumption wise.
Thank you sir for your precise teaching.
😁
Firstly, great channel, useful information & appreciated help. Thanks for sharing because ultimately, the only way we learn is by either doing, or watching others.
What's worse than idiot mechanics that charge for something you can do yourself like you mentioned is idiot mechanics that know absolutely nothing about the KE-Jetronic system but will take on the job of fixing your car, charge you the earth and end up making it worse!!!
Thankfully, this hasn't happened to me but that's only because the only person who works on my 1990 300SE (W126) is me.
I once paid a well regarded mechanic over AUD$800 to replace all of the seals in my power steering box (on a previous w126) and when it came back, it leaked far worse than before & steered like a bus, later I worked out he had used a seal kit for a much earlier model W124!!
I don't trust anyone to work on my car anymore.
It looks like we share the same experience and sentiment. All the best!
Hear hear i second that
Thnx for your support and good information , w124 300ce , from Saudia Arabia
A Hello back to you!
you are the best, thank you, I have a problem with the waste of fuel, in addition, there is carbon on the spark plugs, and the burning is not good W126 M103, so what is the best solution for this problem, thank you very much, Sir
Remote diagnosis of such a potentially complex root cause analysis is always difficult. If the spark plugs carry a lot of carbon deposits this may be due to leaking valve guide seals. Have these been replaced yet? I am not so sure what you mean by " waste of fuel".
You are a True Winner! thank you for this very useful advice.
Glad it helped. Thx.
Thank you sir, greetings from Paris/France
Thank you and all the best to you and your car.
When you mean a quarter turn in ? Do you mean 1/4 of an inch or a quarter of the diameter of the circle also I didn’t see if you twisted the Allen key left or right because of the angle you had in your hand . If the prongs or pins are facing left like at 3:50 in your video am I turning left or right ?
1/4 turn cw. This is one way to do this, but not the best way. I would invest in a fuel differential pressure gauge set and measure the main fuel pressure and the differential pressure. That way you prevent throwing money at solutions that usually throw more unknown variables into the mix.
Thank you. Would much rather perform an adjustment, gives me a chance to inspect all lines, hoses, boot, etc. in that area and change the o-rings too.
Makes sense.
Brilliant Ralph, well explained, did you do the pressure test video?
Thanks. Here is the video link for doing this using a pressure tester. Good luck. th-cam.com/video/wGPKINfu_Hs/w-d-xo.html
Vous êtes excellent Ralph j'ai appris beaucoup de choses de vous mercis continuer.
Merci beaucoup ! Je suis heureux que cela vous ait été utile. Bonne chance à vous et gardez votre Benz classique sur la route.
New to me 89 300se, just wondering what the rpm should be at idle in drive? Mine is 500-550rpm in D at a red light, 600-700 In neutral. Fuel econ gauge is 1/2 way to the left at idle in drive at stop lights, but during driving when off gas it’s pinned to the left. Wonder if that’s normal or sign of maybe vacuum issues? Thank you!
750 at idle and 650 in gear. The vacuum needle should be all the way to the left in either case. This could be due to a vacuum leak. Either do a smoke test or a small gas fuel source to seek out if and where the leak may be.
@@straybenzes thanks
@@gs98999 😀
Surely adjusting the screw is just compensating for a problem elsewhere?
That totally depends on the preceding root cause failure analysis. The EHA components can be the root cause of the lack of power and stalling. But inexperienced owners or car mechanics can also miss other issues and try to correct that by adjusting the screw. Then that would be the wrong thing to do.
Hi Ralph. the engine does not start if you do not press the 5:07 gas pedal.until it warms up to working temperature, it does not work at idle speed. 3.0l 132kw where is the problem?
If it is an engine with the KE Jetronic then I would say it can be the idle mix being off. Could be the a vac leak too though. Then again it could be anything from the main fuel pressure being off to a plugged up sintered filter element in the fuel distributor. When did this problem start? Or better, how did it start?
I have a 87 560sl that blows black smoke and has a lack of power. Could this help my problem?
It is definitely worth checking the fuel and fuel differential pressure. Good luck!
1997 E300D is running but losing power intermittently when accelerating, it loses power significantly then goes back to normal. Any thought what it might be?
What color smoke comes out of the exhaust when that happens?
Can't wait to try this. Why couldn't this be a permanent fix?
If that is your root cause issue it could be the fix it needs. Good luck! I would try to do this using the gauge method though.
@@straybenzes I don't have the gauge but I was going to turn it in (clockwise) 1/4 turn like he said. I've tried everything else. New fuel pump and filters, cleaned out fuel tank and lines, new fuel pressure regulator. My 190e only has 33,000 origional miles and I don't want to give up on it.
@@Nelsonvisions Oh, do not give up on it. This may do the trick, but it would be better knowing what the fuel pressures are.
That low mileage may be part of the problem. Not driving them a lot is typically not got for them. Once you have got it going again I would start driving it more regularly. Good luck.
That's so awesome that you're sharing your knowledge, just got a 85' mercedes 380se and actually it has that exact issue besides that you can hear metal clunking when the engine runs, I would assume that it might be one of the lifters or rods but not really sure...
Hi Andrei;
You actually have a Generation 1 W126 and those had the K Jetronic (the one in the video is a Gen 2 with the KE Jetronic). I believe yours does not have an EHA. Here is a video of my MBCA club member colleague Pierre Hedary:th-cam.com/video/_G5qLK5qlXc/w-d-xo.html
The knocking noise should be investigated urgently. Changing oil to a 10W30 may bring some temporary relief if it is a hydraulic lifter issue. Good luck.
@@straybenzes ...you are right, I was looking for it and couldn't find it lol, so not sure why she's sluggish
@@andreimtriscas6626 Best practice is to work back from fuel tank to injectors and go through one system to the next. Same goes for ignition and exhaust. If it idles and runs ok but just does not develop power it can sometimes also be a plugged catalytic converter (if yours has one). That would be a rare one, but the point is to look at all the systems.
@@straybenzes...sounds good, I bought as a project and rescue it from sitting and rust away so it's going to be one step at a time lol
@@andreimtriscas6626 Remember: there is not a more expensive Benz, than a cheap one....
You the best just changed this thing 😊 thanks old buddy
Glad it worked! Thx
1st time Mercedes Benz owner, just recently purchased a 1989 300ce, it pretty much stalls out in reverse but every other gear is fine. Trying to find out the issues, plus head gasket was replaced a couple months ago by previous owner, but the new head was Milled. Hydraulic Lifters makes a clicking noise but it has so many symptoms that can cause it.
Well, so you have to deal with the additional variables of the previous owner potentially having made things worse by "fixing" stuff? That is sometimes worse than working on an unmolested basket case of a car...
@@straybenzes is there any kind of break in period when that type of work is done? Because next thing to start with would be, at least from what I’ve read, to redo an oil change and put thicker oil for the lifters, grounding some purple wire, and maybe cleaning the fuel lines
@@plissken94th57 Top end work typically does not need a break-in time. Bottom end work including cylinder honing would be a slightly different story. "Thicker" oil is a bit subjective as the oil blends available today have quite a different heat vs viscosity curve compared to 30 years ago. If I am not mistaken your engine would be best run with a 10W-30 or 10W-40. I prefer the former but take a look at your O+M. If it is the lifters then there is a good chance for the noise not to go away. Does it get better as the engine warms up? Some will do that.
As for the engine stall, I would measure and review things like main fuel pressure, EHA differential pressure, and definitely the idle mixture. Just throwing new stuff at the engine is rarely the "easy" fix we are all hoping for. I would also recommend taking a compression reading. That will give you a good indication about how much they milled off the head and also if there is good compression (if there isn't then that can diminish power and cause a stall). Sorry for the long reply.
Going to try this with my ‘88 300CE. Thanks.
The best of luck to you!
Hi, great video's. Thanks for that. I fixed my 560 SEC M117.968 engine. replaced head gaskets, sealings for air inlet en outlet, injector rubbers (not the housing yet) etc etc. Car runs fine but no power. Changed the EHA setting as you explained in this video bij 1/4, then 1/2 and after that 1 turn in clockwise but no result. Still no power. Any suggestions?
Make sure that your idle mix is adjusted to highest RPM. Invest in a KE Jetronic fuel pressure gauge kit. This will help make sure that you can measure the main fuel supply pressure and the differential pressure. If you are even slightly off with the differential pressure you will encounter lack of power or actually choking issues. Good luck!
I installed a new one on my 91 420SEL was leaking gas but the car is running rough my question does the new part needs adjustment?
Oh yes. A new part will typically be adjusted such that the engine will at least start, but expect having to do some adjusting. Good luck!
Thankyou Ralph very video just wondering if you know control pressure and working pressure for 1988 300 se it has a EHA keep up the good work again many thanks
It is the same for the two fuel pump system.
Terrific matey ,love it
Thanks again!
A 1/4 turn “in”? Is that turn left or right? Thank you.
Right or aka clockwise
Hi stray benzes , I adjusted the eha quarter of a turn in and no difference to the fuel pressures both at 6bar maybe issue with eha ? I’ve replaced the fuel pressure regulator as was leaking and still same pressure
Most likely the EHA needs to be rebuilt or replaced. You are connected to the correct test ports, right?
My w201 2.0 is reving only 4000-4500 when standing still and driving, it is powerless and when you hit the pedal, but on idles it running ok. Is this my problem?
It is a distinct possibility that that is the problem. It could however be something simple as a restriction in full fuel flow, e.g. from restricted main or pre filter.
Thank you I just ordered the part and will deff work with it a q turn at a time thank you
Good luck!
Having a issue with the vacuum valve the green and black one under the intake case I replaced my eha it was leaking really bad but noticed my vacuum valve was broke maybe doing the work but having a issue finding one cross reference numbers gave me one that’s to sisal to fit the fitings
@@Devan_Bolin Looks like you got it sorted out. All the best!
Recien en noviembre compre un MB w124 300e año 88 el cual tenia problema de consumo de gasolina,perdida de fuerza y enchumbaba las bujias,cambie esa cajita y arreglado el problema
¡Muy bien!
Also my eha valve is leaking a lot . How will I know if it’s from the o rings or from somewhere else ?
Once you clean the area with contact cleaner you should see right away where it is leaking from once you start the engine.
I am a newbie to MBZ R129, so it would be helpful to know how to relieve the fuel pressure before removing the EHA, as it spewed fuel all over a warm engine when I started this adjustment.
Yes, that can and will happen.
Im driving a 1990 mercedes 560 sel on Kauai, the car used to be Kenny Rodgers car, he had it brand new. the other day i was driving and when i wanted to hit the gas it was not going and i had to pull over. very scary because i stuck just going over a bridge and no shoulder to pull over. I had it towed and we looked at the fuel relay plug and it started once we put connectors in the 3rd holes in the connector part, then my friend sodded inside the board of the relay part, its driving but wondering if its the speed sensor?? i have gotten stuck but not when i was driving. other times i could start the car. Does anyone have an anwser on what to check to find the problem??/
What a cool history your car has. What you are describing sounds like a faulty fuel pump relay to me. They are very hard to find in new old stock, but sometimes you can "revive" it by just resoldering the soldered points on the board. It is scary when you all of a sudden lose all power and all you can do is to safely coast to the side of the road. The best of luck to you! th-cam.com/video/yCkAjobdZnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VnAPHLLTpiBMYJpG
I have similar problem, my 1995 E420 iddle perfectly for hours as soon car warm engine and press acceleration its studle engine and cannot start again till cool down. Pleease advice.
I am sorry, but that model has a different fuel injection system that I am not very familiar with.
@@straybenzes Thank you
😀@@SuperStrle
Hi there hope you can help I’ve just done a fuel pressure test on my m104 and reading at 6bar and in a closed position or open there is no Change
Assuming that you have connected the delta P gauge correctly you should have a high of 6.4Bar and the low pressure at 6Bar. Looks like you need to adjust the EHA properly. Here is a video how to do that: th-cam.com/video/wGPKINfu_Hs/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
Hi Ralph! Great content. I have a 1988 Mercedes Benz 300CE with the a similar issue. I conducted a pressure test on it and come to find out the fuel coming from the distributed has low pressure after I disconnected it. Do you think the Actuator can be the culprit for the low pressure of the entire distributor system? When I took out the spark plugs as well they were all socked with gas. What can I do?
Oh my, there are a lot of issues here. I think you need to tackle one symptom at a time. The fuel pressure needs to be corrected. That is usually due to failing pump(s) and / or fuel filter or fuel pre-filter. Sounds like you have enough fuel going to the engine though. Can you confirm that you have a spark while cranking the engine?
@@straybenzes Thanks for your reply. Yes I do have sparks. I believe because I was cranking so hard or because I drove the car at a high RPM on the freeway but when it is idling it shut off itself until after fee day I did a cold start but it never came on or started. Was cracking but wont start.
@@kehindeoye569 IDi d you do the fuel pump / fuel flow test on the fuel distributor?
@@straybenzes Yes I did all f that.
Hi. I have a problem with my w124. 1995 E280. There’s no power in the all fuse box. Can you help?. Thanks
Oof. That is a nasty problem. Use a power probe and see if you can find any broken wires starting with the power supply from the battery.
@@straybenzes many thanks I will try that
@@younuskhan1752 Good luck!
Hello there, I have a 92 400E and I have these symptoms. When quickly stepping down on peddle it chokes and then goes. When driving I’ll step full throttle and it hesitates and jerks. Could this be the throttle valve if the actuator isn’t working properly and car is throwing #10 and #16 code for throttle and MAF?
After 1992 the M119 engine featured a new Bosch fuel injection system and the KE Jetronic was no longer used. So far the good news. The not so good news on the W124 of the early 1990s is that the wiring harness is infamous for causing all sorts of shorts, intermittent contacts, etc. So here I would first take a look at all the wiring contacts on the fuel injection system and check the wires for continuity as well as contact corrosion. Sorry for not being of too much help with this particular fault.
Hi @mikeymancebo7783, I’m just wondering if you were able to solve the problem on your 400E? I have the same problem also on a 400E, looking for a solution. Thanks in advance.
Hi
I have a W124 M103 engine with no O2 Sensor.
Could I ask, does the EHA measure fuel pressure or fuel mixture.
I have a fluttering idle problem. The engine rests at about 500 rpm and has a slight shutter on Idle.
I have a fuel pressure of 5 Bars with valve closed and 5.4 Bars with it open. So I don't wish to interfer with pressure.
I've a new Bosch HT system and replaced all injectors. I conducted tests on most parts including Fuel Pump, fuel pressure regulator, Accumulator, ICV and Vac lines.
Any advice is much appreciated.
Cheers
No O2 sensor? Hmm. This could still be related to the throttle potentiometer on the side of the fuel distributor. The EHA works strictly on fuel differential pressure.
Cheers
I think I may have identified the problem. The resistance values on the potentiometer are completely wrong. Fingers crossed 🤞
Do you think the Potentiometer may be the issue?
th-cam.com/users/shortsPGvShvGQ_ec?feature=share
Thank you in advance
@@brianalcock it can definitely be an issue. Good luck!
@@brianalcock Good luck!
Ralph, appreciate your videos. I have this problem and intermittent black smoke and loss of power. It can run great, clear exhaust and then out of no where black smoke and loss of power. Any guidance?
Hmm. I would start with making sure that you have the correct fuel delivery and differential pressure. Also, make sure that your idle mixture is set to max idle RPM. Black smoke is usually too much fuel. Assuming that fuel delivery pressure and idle mix are ok, I would focus on the fuel distributor and the air mass flow flap mechanism. Hoping this may help you a little.
@@straybenzes can you point me to a video of yours or another resources that covers the theory of operation of the fuel system? [I have new pumps]
@@williamschuh7947 The best source that I have found so far is the old factory WIS service information. I would Google that to find a cost effective source. Sadly Benz folded their free look up of that info on StarTech completely. Only other option would be to let a KE Jetronic mech like Pierre Hedary take a look at it.
My SEC 500 had no power and I was really disappointed with its performance, after some TH-cam research I found this video so I checked my EHA to see if that was the problem and there it was my electric plug was plugged out that goes into the EHA. And now it drives like a 500 SEC! Thank you so much for the brilliant videos so much to learn! My next task is to fix my clock. It was working until I tried to set the time and turned the clock anti clockwise to change from 12 to 9 without going all the way around and now the hands don’t move? 😅 Any recommendation to fix this issue.
Yeah, the clock stopping after setting it is unfortunately a frequent issue. If after the third attempt of resetting the clock to the correct time it still does not keep working I would try pushing the clock turn knob in, set the clock, and then let the knob snap back in place rather than a slow release. Sometimes the adjustment gears stay engaged and the clock drive is not meant to move that stuff along and thus the clock stops. Good luck.
@@straybenzes thank you for the reply and help, I will try this.
@@teammagnaparte1112 Good luck
1992 r129 idle goes up when ac is turned on. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Idle goes up by how much?
thanks, following, and learning about 420sel
Glad you liked it. Good luck.
1989 420 SEL OXYGEN SENSOR CONECTION UNDER CARPET? ALSO DOES IT ONLY HAVE ONE CANT FIND ELECTRIC CONECTION UNDER SEAT DO YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE SEAT OUT?? HELP PLEASE !??
It is nowhere close to the seats. You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the plastic footrest under the carpet mat on the passenger side and you will see it to your left in the footwell area. Just unplug and push the rubber grommet through.
I am having an issue with M103 engine where when I start my car for the first time the idle goes from 10 down to 5 and sometimes dies. Second start it runs fine any idea what this could be? Thanks.
Assuming your ignition components, fuel supply and return line are fine, and there is sufficient fuel pressure then I would say that you need to check the high/low fuel pressure of the EHA. There is an upcoming video about how to do this in July.
So if I may ask what if I over adjust and the screw will the engine start
If you take it easy in overadjusting it should still start no matter what. Make no more than 1/4 turn at a time.
I was wondering is it possible to swap 1988 mercedes 300ce M103 straight engine with a V6 one? I'm looking for a higher power and a lower fuel consumption.
Just about anything is possible. Is any of it easy? Jury is out on that. It really is what you make it. If you do choose to do this, then invest your time in research and planning. Personally, I would go with a later model car rather than implanting a modern engine into these old cars. Totally up to you. Good luck!
Yes, it is possible. A few w124 had as well a v8 500 engine. Thus, no problem.
I have the same problem on my car. I used a obd1 it told me it was the distributor, multi port fuel system, and the pressurized engine control. Im not sure If this will help or am I better off buying a whole new fuel system
If the engines responses better when at operating temp then it is most likely your fuel system. I would recommend troubleshooting the fuel system from tank to injector one item at a time, rather than throwing money at the problem and then adding a few new variables (just because it is "new" does not mean you will have no issues).
@@straybenzes thanks I'll keep you updated on how it goes I also bought some new fuel injectors since mine are old and never been changed
@@oldschool3143 The best of luck!
MANY THANKS FOR REPLY WILL CHECKARE YOU TALKING ABOUT PLASTIC ON WHER YOU PUT FEET ALSO DOESIT HAVE ONE OR TWO OXY GEN SENSORS?? THANKS SO MUCH FOR REPLY WILL TRY TO ADJUST EHA A BIT SCARED TO DO IT THANKS AGAIN
Yes, the large size black plastic piece. There is usually only one sensor. Good luck.
Exactly how many winds the weight of Mercedes the 560
That depends on too many variables. This method only works with an engine that is running well otherwise. The only good way to adjust the EHA is to use a fuel pressure gauge as explained in another video of mine on this channel.
i have a 1983 380 sec and my car dies when you hit the gas. any help would be greatly appreciated.
That sounds like it is not getting enough fuel. Pierre Hedari made a great video going over the K Jetronic fuel system and shows how to adjust it: www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D_G5qLK5qlXc&ved=2ahUKEwip1cOwqIOHAxXMj4kEHWOsDRkQtwJ6BAgSEAI&usg=AOvVaw0kggdi09hcqctmXR58HFVL
@@straybenzes thank you i will check this out.
@@dtg824 Good luck!
hello , thank you for this information, I have 1990 560 sec sometimes when I step on the gas pedal after a stop i get two to three seconds delay on acceleration do you this this is the issue?
Was the engine at operating temperature? Is this phenomenon worse when the engine is cold? It does sound like that the EHA differential pressure adjustment could be the problem. This assumes that the idle mix is adjusted correctly, fuel supply pressure is correct, the fuel filter (primary and secondary) are in good working order, and that you do not have vacuum leaks.
@@straybenzes Thank you Sir, Fuel pumps ,fuel filter, accumulator and fuel pressure regulator are new, and yes I feel it most in the morning, and forgot to mention that it does not like to start from the first time and when it starts engine shakes for 2-3 seconds.
Yeah I’m plugged into the 12mm blank next to where the fuel pressure regulator goes into and onto the top of the fuel distribution
Thx. All the best!
Great video, I have an issue where my 91 300ce starts and runs fine until it reaches operating temperature and then when it does, it will stall out when given gas and won't start again until it cools back down. It will idle fine but as soon as I give it gas it'll stall out. Could the EHA being out of adjustment possibly cause this. Thx again for all your vids.
Hmm. That is highly unlikely. Usually, if it the EHA fuel pressure issue then the car stalls when cold and then runs better when hot.
Here my hunch is checking your ignition coils cable connections for corrosion and dirt. Also, check the crankshaft position sensor for dirt etc. Good luck.
Much appreciated, thx for getting back!
@@d.draper5822 You bet
@@d.draper5822 You are welcome!
Did you fix this issue, I have an identical symptom
How do you fix this on a k-jet that is bogging down
The K Jet does not have the EHA. This is most likely a problem related to the airflow mass plate adjustment needing to be corrected. An aquaintence of mine, Pierre Hedari made a video about this and around minute 16.47 he covers that part. th-cam.com/video/_G5qLK5qlXc/w-d-xo.html
Hi. I saw that my EHA Valve is leaky. And my car starts only cold very Bad. After it starts i can start again without problem. But after 5 mins, he needs 30 seconds to Start. Can my "cold" Start Symptoms come from a leaky EHA?
It would need to leak pretty badly, but the valve could still need adjusting. KE Jetronics are simple in principle, but it requires that all its components and systems are working quite perfectly. Did anyone mess with the CO adjustment (the little Allen head screw that adjusts the air mass flow sensor flap gap)? Most folks make the mistake thinking that this is an idle control screw - it is not.
Your symptom could also be the start up valve and start up fuel injection valve not working properly. Hoping this will help a little. Good luck!
It is really leaky, from all the holes is coming fuel, i turned a little bit on the Mixture Screw but with duty cycle Meter just to See if engine works Properly, i turned the screw back to 43% -49%.
The car runs perfectly when warmes up. I stop the engine, i smoke a cigaret, i Start the engine and He needs 2 to 3 starts and then He runs. When the car is not touched for about 12 hours, He needs 5 to 8 starts and then the rpm goes slowly up and then He runs again perfectly. If the car is not used longer the worse is the cold Start.
I checked All Filters, all pumps, all valves, everything is working Properly. I bought a new EHA but it comes in 2 weeks. So it might Be the EHA, its leaking so bad that im losing Pressure on the System?
@@Taipeh47 If it leaks that bad then you will need to fix that and then you need a pressure gauge set up to set the correct pressure differential on it (as shown in another video). The idle mixture should be set to max rpm at idle whatever that is (high idle condition is an issue caused by other conditions). What is the fuel system pressure? Make sure to measure this also - the fuel filter / pumps need to work properly in order for the car to start correctly.
@@Taipeh47 I would be curious to see what the fuel pressure is with a cold engine. That should provide an important clue.
I wait first for the new EHA. It should come this week.
I try today again and after 20 seconds of trying he starts. I pushed the gas Pedal a little bit and had something like backfire. Only once and he Was shaking and the rpm was Falling. Then the second Start without any problems. Its only when the engine is really cold. I hope its the eha. Meine leaks so bad that i can stell fuel inside the car.
Oh... that's EXACTLY what mine is doing (300TE) thank you.
Good luck!
@@straybenzes You know there's something funny going on with this ".4 bar" difference and a single valve gauge set. I THINK? That those numbers are for isolated ports which you can't do with a single valve. I could not make it work right because with the valve open you're not getting true reading of either of the ports but a MIX, no? I finally just switched my gauge fittings around and actually isolated each port and it was a snap and OMG is it ever running nicely now, whole new car.
@@RastusMcbride No, that is indeed the "official" procedure. If you got this to work with two separate gauges the more power to you. Glad it worked!
@@straybenzes One gauge just flipped it around (a few times) so the valve could isolate each port. Still not sure about the conditions for setting... the factory manual has you disconnect the O2 sensor, disconnecting the eha does the same thing yes? So hot, with eha dc'd and .4 bars then... is that right? Sorry so nitpicky just want to make sure it's right this time ;)
@@RastusMcbride That is correct - better right that doing it over and over again :)
Will this adjustment help if my car is stuttering when I accelerate
That is the leading cause for that symptom. Make sure that your idle mixture is adjusted properly, you have no vac leaks, and that your fuel delivery system is clean and has the correct supply pressure.
thanks for the input I own a w124 230e , a w124 200e facelift a 123 200 , and a w203 c180 kompressor and i need all the input i can get
(The best or nothing)
Wow. You should be very busy with that. Good luck!
Turning the screw in old EHA s damages the rubber seal that s on the tip of the little screw down the hole, btw ,due to wear in time the little rubber is distroyed by the petrol , producing an increased fuel consumtion ,so before playing with te screw ,you d better remove ,but measure the depth with a calipper to make sure where it was , remove anc check the rubber seal , and if it s still ok than you lucky, if not it s time for a new one ,Bosch still sell them
Cheers
It can happen and that is totally depending on the condition of the part and the car in general.
@@straybenzes they are all soaked in petrol , it depends a lot of the quality of the fuel , that s what i have noticed in time.
Cheers
@@Gioagla Yeah, the new fuels are pretty rough on any fuel system. Thanks!
Will this help with my mercedes not starting after getting a new fuel distributor???
I could, but the idle mix adjustment could also be a problem. First I would make sure that you have correct main fuel pressure. Then I would check that you have fuel flowing through your new distributor. You would have to jumper the fuel pump relay to make the pumps run continuously and then crack open one or all fuel injection ports to see that you have fuel flowing.
@@straybenzes so here's the thing. I replaced all my fuel injectors with brand new ones because mine were old, and I bought a new fuel distributor but I used my old eha that was on my old distributor. After that it wasn't starting right till I messed with the pressure plate and now it starts with my rpm on the 5? I believe? I'm not sure if that's the right rpm on it or not but when I tried running my car it still had acceleration hesitation and I noticed that my fuel pump was leaking. If I change my fuel pump and it still has the hesitation what do you think the problem would be?????
@@oldschool3143 There is a lot going on here. I typically only change one variable at a time. Out of the things you did the one with the most significant change is changing out the distributor. Doing so requires for you to adjust the idle mix. That is the 3mm allen screw (there is another video on this channel about that). You need to adjust that screw to obtain the highest idle that you can.
Next is the fuel pump situation and the EHA situation. Leaks need fixing and you still need to confirm that you have the correct fuel pressure at the distributor. That goes hand in hand with checking the pressure differential achieved by the EHA (another video on the channel). Your current idle is too low. Good luck.
Wouldn't turning it clockwise make the car run richer?
That is correct. Stalling is due to not getting enough fuel.
@@straybenzes so can you adjust counter clockwise to get better mpgl if it doesn't stall? Thanks
My car stalls when it idles. This just happened. Any ideas why?
Did anyone mess with it recently?
@@straybenzes no
@@whynot69734 Oof. That could still be many things either fuel system / pressure, vacuum leak, idle mixture, or also an electrical issue. Sorry that I cannot be of too much help.
Dude this happened to me I ordered the part tho it was leaking gas but I’m hoping that is the issue
Good luck to you!
Hello sir, why does my R107 300sl pops when i firmly press the gas pedal, and it feels like its struggling to accelerate to 3000rpm then when higher feels like its happier 😕
If your engine has the EHA valve shown here in the video that would be the most likely issue. It scan also be the idle mix seting being off. Gopopd luck!
@@straybenzes Thank you for your response. I will give that a try tomorrow. Could the loud pop be coming from the carburetor flap come from that to? If so How do i adjust that
ЕНА ?
Many thanks
⑦回
@@danjelmanjani4412 Well, that depends. If you have a later model that does have the EHA I would first make sure that your fuel pressure and differential pressure are ok. The air mass flow flap that you are referring to impacts fual to air mix ratio. For the later models you can make sure that you have max RPM at idle by adjusting the little 3mm allen set screw on top of the fuel distributor assemble. There is another video about that. Did anyone mess with that or ignition timing etc?
@@straybenzes thank you!
Not that im aware of, ive had this car less than 3 months. Parked since 1995 and 61.000 miles on the clock. Was sounding ok when i purchased, but once i changed all the ignition components (bosch), cleaned the fuel tank (left it to fry for 48h), injectors, OVP, fuel pump and filter (i haven’t changed the accumulator and ICV.
After i did all of those istarted having that issue. Today i did quarter turn to the right to EHA and the loud pops are not there anymore but still when the engine is hot the rpms move up and down along with oil and economy gauges. Any thoughts?
Many thanks for your help 🙏
@@danjelmanjani4412 That is pretty much the worst case scenario: low mileage car that has sat for a very long time. If it souded ok why did you start replacing parts? You have introduced a lot of variables that makes troubleshooting just a little more challenging. Big question is which new part or other repair introduced the symptom of the car running rough?
This is all but impossible to do remotely. The only way that I know how to get out of situations like this is to start all the way back from the tank, to pumps, etc to the fuel injectors. You will need to invest or rent some tools like a fuel pressure tester, electric meter, etc to verify piece by piece that you have the correct amount of fuel, air, and spark. I wish I could help you in person but that is very unlikely. Good luck!
So I did a quarter turn and now my car is overfueling and smoking
You may have to turn it the other way, but either way you should be using a proper differential pressure gauge set. There is one more video how to use it. Good luck!
Thank you 😊😊
You're welcome 😊
Quarter clock or anti?
Clockwise. If that does not improve the stalling than this was not the problem. Make sure the idle mix/ flow meter gap is set to the best idle. Otherwise take a look at getting the test gauge and review the video about setting up the EHA using the test gauge method.
Videos very good
Thank you! Glad you like them.
You didnt show the location of that part
Sorry! Which part though?
At 2:10 on the video the almost static picture, look at the right side direct underneath the fuel distributor, then see the 4 small bores (guess 2 for keeping the EHA in its place, the other 2 are were fuel actually flow from the (and again back into) the chambers of the fuel distributor.
I have 1990 SEL in Ghana and I’m frustrated cus the mechanics here don’t seem to know their way around it.
My car is very neat but I’m not able to enjoy it 😪
I feel for you. Even in America there are very few people who know enough to work on these older Benzes.
Danke
Bitte
84 300cdt
Nice classic car!
Hello, my vehicle is 260E, 1987 model, with m103 engine. My vehicle does not start when running on gasoline without pressing the accelerator pedal. What is the reason?
When how did this problem start?
@@straybenzes for 1 month. Why do you think it might be?
That could be the EHA out of adjustment. Check main and differential fuel pressure. That would be a good first measure and while you are at it check the little sintered filter in the fuel distributor and clean it out just to be sure that your engine gets enough fuel. @@johnwick-vj1zd
@@straybenzes What could be the reason for it stalling at idle on gasoline? idle valve is working
When you write about the idle valve, do you mean the EHA (electro hydraulic actuator)?@@johnwick-vj1zd
Thank you!!!
All the best