I just did this with our Phantom 4 Controller. There are a few videos that are similar, some with more detail than others. After having done it, I think about 80% of the disassembly shown may be unnecessary. I went as far as the 6 small ribbon connectors on the main board before I realized that as long as the two screws are removed, most connectors can stay connected. I did not disconnect the wired plugs nor the antennae connectors. If I had to do it again I would try leaving the ribbon cables connected. If you feel you may pinch the cables, disconnect them. Now the board can be carefully lifted and tilted back to lay on the controller, iPad holder retracted underneath and flat on the table. This also makes a good stand for it to be on when doing the heating. If the board resists being lifted, it may be stuck on the two posts toward the front edge - apply a little more force under the board there and it should come up. I used an "embossing heat gun" that my wife had for crafts to heat the chip located next to the light array as shown. I used a piece of cardboard curved around the chip to isolate it and held the gun on for two minutes. I did not need to heat any other areas. When I was done, the cardboard looked slightly toasted at the edge near the chip, so it is a fair amount of heat. Afterwards, once it cooled, I reconnected the battery and then the charger to verify that the charging lights came on as expected. If all is well, they should begin lighting in sequence and as the charge completes all 4 will light in sequence, then finally go off. If all is good with the charging, turn the controller on to make sure all lights light up indicating a full charge; if you have disconnected the ribbons, only "No. 5" coming from the power switch needs to be reconnected to test this. This is a good test before reassembly in case you need to apply the heat again if it didn't take. If all is good, reassemble and take the drone out to test all controller functions in a limited safe flight. Take your time with this, work carefully and methodically, and it may save your controller and some $$$ on repair.
For those who still are in a predicament here’s something to note. An improperly installed and or corrupted BIOS firmware update can brick just about any motherboard. For that reason, sometimes the only solution is to just buy a new one.
Thank you so much guys. I had the same issue, google didn’t help, had contacted DJI and was going to ship Tuesday for repairs. Did this procedure and is charging know and seems to be fine. Once again thanks for saving me couple $100
Open up the back 4 screws with a thin phillips head screwdriver - ( the screws are behind the rubber grips and gromits) And than un-attach the cable connected to the battery (looks kind of like a white telephone cable)and than plug it straight back in. This reset should fix it completely!! It did for me :)
Mine did it too. Thought it was completely fubared. Thank god I found the fix. Remove back, unplug, and replug to reset. If it continues to do it, Im cutting a little hole in the back and cover it with tape so I dont have to keep taking it apart.
I did that with mine, it worked for a couple of weeks, but now it's failed again. Any idea on why it would be a recurring problem? I don't want to have to take it apart every few weeks. Thanks.
We Should start a Collective lawsuit against DJI!! They will not acknowledge this defect and charge for fixing their mistake!!
I just did this with our Phantom 4 Controller. There are a few videos that are similar, some with more detail than others. After having done it, I think about 80% of the disassembly shown may be unnecessary. I went as far as the 6 small ribbon connectors on the main board before I realized that as long as the two screws are removed, most connectors can stay connected. I did not disconnect the wired plugs nor the antennae connectors. If I had to do it again I would try leaving the ribbon cables connected. If you feel you may pinch the cables, disconnect them. Now the board can be carefully lifted and tilted back to lay on the controller, iPad holder retracted underneath and flat on the table. This also makes a good stand for it to be on when doing the heating. If the board resists being lifted, it may be stuck on the two posts toward the front edge - apply a little more force under the board there and it should come up.
I used an "embossing heat gun" that my wife had for crafts to heat the chip located next to the light array as shown. I used a piece of cardboard curved around the chip to isolate it and held the gun on for two minutes. I did not need to heat any other areas. When I was done, the cardboard looked slightly toasted at the edge near the chip, so it is a fair amount of heat.
Afterwards, once it cooled, I reconnected the battery and then the charger to verify that the charging lights came on as expected. If all is well, they should begin lighting in sequence and as the charge completes all 4 will light in sequence, then finally go off. If all is good with the charging, turn the controller on to make sure all lights light up indicating a full charge; if you have disconnected the ribbons, only "No. 5" coming from the power switch needs to be reconnected to test this. This is a good test before reassembly in case you need to apply the heat again if it didn't take.
If all is good, reassemble and take the drone out to test all controller functions in a limited safe flight. Take your time with this, work carefully and methodically, and it may save your controller and some $$$ on repair.
For those who still are in a predicament here’s something to note. An improperly installed and or corrupted BIOS firmware update can brick just about any motherboard. For that reason, sometimes the only solution is to just buy a new one.
Thank you so much guys. I had the same issue, google didn’t help, had contacted DJI and was going to ship Tuesday for repairs. Did this procedure and is charging know and seems to be fine. Once again thanks for saving me couple $100
Open up the back 4 screws with a thin phillips head screwdriver - ( the
screws are behind the rubber grips and gromits) And than un-attach the
cable connected to the battery (looks kind of like a white telephone
cable)and than plug it straight back in. This reset should fix it
completely!! It did for me :)
Thanks for the advice. Taking apart and disconnecting the battery plug worked a treat.
EarlyNicky , thanks men ,has works for me ,now lets wait until it ends than see if has 100% recharged.
Olhar do Açor did it work???
DID IT WORKED ???
Mine did it too. Thought it was completely fubared. Thank god I found the fix. Remove back, unplug, and replug to reset.
If it continues to do it, Im cutting a little hole in the back and cover it with tape so I dont have to keep taking it apart.
Did you do this modification? Could you post it so we can see? Many thanks
I did that with mine, it worked for a couple of weeks, but now it's failed again. Any idea on why it would be a recurring problem? I don't want to have to take it apart every few weeks. Thanks.
thanks bro! it worked for me perfectly just the way you said!
dominick luciano its fully charging now?
the problem persists for many some permanent solution? so as not to repeat the same process over and over again
How do you connect the controller to the phones WiFi
Hi can any body tell me how many charger voltage for the controller it is the same 17.4 volts like for battery or lower
bonjour serait il possible d avoir la traduction en francais merci