Looks awesome! I learned about 30 years ago how to seal padauk to keep the bright colors from an old furniture builder. He would build under his normal lights then when it was time to seal he would turn off the bright lights and had installed light fixtures that use dark room lights like in film processing. He then sand final time and seal before turning on the main lights and his work turned out bright orange and never go dark. Was interesting so i use that same method.
@@jimhester2004 If he is, then I can imagine someone making a dark finishing room just for this purpose, if one wants to go to that extent of applying and sanding every coat of paint over a week or longer. Of course, there would be two dark rooms; one to enter and leave through, and the other to work in.
Awesome!! Just started using padauk, love the look of it and thinking of using it as my signature accent wood but read that the colour fades fast. Hope this will make it last longer
I just got my 1st shipment of Padauk from Woodworker Source, Man this stuff is Beautiful I'm going to use it for the backs & sides of 2 Ukuleles Iam building.
I followed your directions on a Paduak project and it really worked very, very well. I was reluctant to try this long process but I results were truly superb. I had wondered if you ever used Feed and Wax as a finish on this wood? I struggle to keep the beautiful look of this wood without it browning over.
That is a gorgeous finish on padauk. Padauk is definitely one of my favorite Woods to work with, except how messy it is! The ceiling of my shop is still red from a project I made almost 6 months ago.
I *really* enjoy your videos. You've helped me make some nice gifts for the special people in my life and have taught me great skills to express myself. Thank you!!!
I just want to say I used this two years ago. Modified in two ways: 1) did a diluted tung oil wash first. 2) finished with Epiphane boat varnish to provide additional UV protection. Still looks great. To me the Timbermate suggestion really makes it. Thanks!
Funny, I stumbled on this video and it's basically the exact process I've been using on Padauk as well. It comes out very nice. FWIW I accidentally got a non-dewaxed shellac and the outcome hasn't been bad as so many people suggest. Marc over at the wood whisperer did a (relatively short) test and found the same results, waxed or unwaxed it behaves ok either way. Anyway, I really like this finish because it can all be done in an HVLP gun which reallllly reduces the final labor investment, and you get a professional looking finish every time.
I've used a different method and my piece has been in direct sunlight thru a window for 6 years. It has retained the red while only darkening slightly. I used waxed shellac, it actually kept the wood brighter than sealer without wax. Then I put UV water poly, then I put UV resin on top of that. Always test a sample since different products brands have different results. You may also want to switch the order of resin and poly but complications may arise.
I did this finish to a guitar I built, but I added a twist- start with pure tung oil(+mineral spirits and japan drier) to give it an oil based look. It gives the padauk a nice red tint that shows up beautifully after the shellac sealer and water based top coat.
Hi Mark, I enjoyed your project very much! I have a question, I'm putting Padauk in the bed of my truck. Would like to keep the bright orange color and I would like it to be able to hold up to the weather as will. What would you suggest? Thanks again and the video was great! 🔨
Hi, old video but worth a try.. I ve got a box made of padauk... but it keeps turning white, some sort of "crystals" that feel oily when wiped and it always comes back.. I ve found an article its oxidation, do you have any ideas how could I prevent this from returning?
Wow! Now imagine doing a whole Mission or Shaker kitchen cabinet job in Padauk! I wouldn't know where to start! Would you prefinish all the lumber first, or maybe after cutting boards to length, or after any routing, or some other step or just wait until after assembly?
It's always a tough call. But it does spare you some frustration to do what ever finishing you can do before assembly. But you've got to make the judgement call about when it makes sense and when it doesn't.
What color of Timbermate would you recommend for Padauk if you didn't want the filler to be so dark? Which one would blend in the best with Padauk's color?
Thanks. I'm curious about how well this will work for a guitar fretboard. Paduak _is_ used for guitars, but not much, and I have yet to see one with a Paduak Fretboard. I fear that a coating would be worn off with use. Fingernails get in close contact with the fretboard, sometimes scratching it. It might end up like a lot of Maple fretboards, which are also coated.
I'm having trouble in my small town finding de-waxed shellac. But I'll keep trying. I'm curious though...does your formula also work with red cedar? Because it also turns quite dark after time. Thanks for this video :-))
Thanks for the video, I recently bought some Padauk and I'm excited to try it out. You referenced using water based poly as it has the UV inhibitors but I'm wondering if you think the GF Arm-R-Seal oil based poly would also do the job just as well. Thanks again!
Automotive clear coat will keep the color forever with a perfect level finish no sanding or buffing required. ‘If done correctly with an auto spray gun’ I like to rub it in as sealer letting it soak in. Sand once and hammer the clear in a heated booth until perfect. Boom!
Really like how your finish turned out. Question: Do you think I could add wood filler after I’ve applied dewaxed shellac (as opposed to before) and have a similar result? I carved some spoons out of Padauk, wiped ‘em with acetate then applied multiple coats of dewaxed shellac but before I saw your video
Dennis Obergfell yes but I wouldn’t use the water based timbermate filler. An oil based paste wood filler will work better when going on top of a sealer. Not sure really what would happen with the water based stuff being applied after the sealer.
I have a 30 year old padauk bed and Ive been so scared of restoring it because Im sure Ill destroy its beautiful colour. This gives me some hope, though getting all these supplies in India is near impossible.
Naptha is illegal in some states, Klean Strip sells a replacement called Painter's solvent; Home Depot sells it. I've used it and seems to work though I don't know how it compares to the real stuff.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I made 4 clocks for gifts this past Christmas. One of them was framed w/Padauk and I used your formula for the finish. Turned out great. I’m looking at it now. So far, it’s holding its color. Thanks again.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I have a question about paste wood filler. I’ve used it on many projects to get a great high gloss finish. However, I’m looking into using a gold mica to fill the pores for a more sparkling high gloss look. Do you think it’s possible or will I have to open the pores with a fine point awl or a tiny little drill bit? Thoughts???
Really enjoying most of these vids, but have to suggest balancing the volume of the music to the narration. If I get the music volume to the preferred level, I can't hear the narration. Get the narration volume up and the music is way too loud. This vid is a good example of that.
The only thing that would change is possibly your choice of applicators. Shellac could be sprayed if you want, but the pad by hand method works just fine too. And with the waterbased topcoat you can use larger brushes or those big flat pads you can get in the paint dept at the hardware store if you're dealing with a large table top (or something else big and flat.)
I like your dedication, but I'm not so charmed by the final result. It feels quite artificial to me and it does not preserve the spontaneous and lively display of the original colour. I simply finish the sanding with P400 and finally polish paper it. Then I apply beeswax from a solid stick, rub it so it warms, melts and spreads over the surface. I do admit, it doesn't hold the original colour forever, but if you put it in a shady place it lights this up for years, while it ever so slowy matures in clour, like I do
looks great but why go thru all that instead of just keeping it natural with maybe a really thin layer single coat of oil or wax and buff it clean, then keep it in a bedroom out of sunlight and it would look beautiful all the time with its natural orange color? wood that work? in my opinion woods look best when left to look as natural as possible, it’s most beautiful that way with all the imperfections and colors. to me all these oils and sealers take away from that. when building projects that are going to stay indoors, and applying sealers is just a wY is saying you don’t like the way wood looks. i built cabinet for my shop out of poplar, and applied just a little butcher block oil only to keep moisture out. they don’t look sealed, and they don’t look like plastic, and they don’t look shiny. they look like wood, because they are.
![ประสบการณ์ จ้าง Developer ที่ผมจะไม่มีวันลืม [ภาค1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bzivN4KDg-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done. The outcome is awesome. I am not quite as afraid of padauk any longer, thanks.
that's the spirit! Thanks for checking it out
@SV sV Yes, exactly
@K L Still nice and orange! We posted a follow up here th-cam.com/channels/azwbNF0GGeGqfd5ZZcU5HA.htmlcommunity?lb=UgwK9w90snZs17JoAQV4AaABCQ
Looks awesome! I learned about 30 years ago how to seal padauk to keep the bright colors from an old furniture builder. He would build under his normal lights then when it was time to seal he would turn off the bright lights and had installed light fixtures that use dark room lights like in film processing. He then sand final time and seal before turning on the main lights and his work turned out bright orange and never go dark. Was interesting so i use that same method.
Another great idea, thanks
Whitewolf.........are you saying to do all the sanding and applying all the coats of shellac before returning to regular lighting? Thanks.
@@jimhester2004 If he is, then I can imagine someone making a dark finishing room just for this purpose, if one wants to go to that extent of applying and sanding every coat of paint over a week or longer. Of course, there would be two dark rooms; one to enter and leave through, and the other to work in.
Awesome!! Just started using padauk, love the look of it and thinking of using it as my signature accent wood but read that the colour fades fast. Hope this will make it last longer
Glad you posted this. I just made a Padauk Cello stand box for my daughter.
I just got my 1st shipment of Padauk from Woodworker Source, Man this stuff is Beautiful I'm going to use it for the backs & sides of 2 Ukuleles Iam building.
Terrific video. It’s a keeper. Thanks for the useful information.
I followed your directions on a Paduak project and it really worked very, very well. I was reluctant to try this long process but I results were truly superb. I had wondered if you ever used Feed and Wax as a finish on this wood? I struggle to keep the beautiful look of this wood without it browning over.
Thanks, Mark. I’m sure your daughters would were thrilled.
That is a gorgeous finish on padauk. Padauk is definitely one of my favorite Woods to work with, except how messy it is! The ceiling of my shop is still red from a project I made almost 6 months ago.
I used this ebony timber mate in my 2nd desk. Awesome addition in the Padauk and Purple Heart desk.
Superb, well presented finishing info. Loved this!
Doing first project with Padauk, knew we can count on you to give great tips on finishing it, thanks
I *really* enjoy your videos. You've helped me make some nice gifts for the special people in my life and have taught me great skills to express myself. Thank you!!!
Beautiful box. These are great videos, thanks for sharing the knowledge.
I just want to say I used this two years ago. Modified in two ways: 1) did a diluted tung oil wash first. 2) finished with Epiphane boat varnish to provide additional UV protection. Still looks great. To me the Timbermate suggestion really makes it. Thanks!
Man, I love this! Some great tips/tricks and information here!
Funny, I stumbled on this video and it's basically the exact process I've been using on Padauk as well. It comes out very nice. FWIW I accidentally got a non-dewaxed shellac and the outcome hasn't been bad as so many people suggest. Marc over at the wood whisperer did a (relatively short) test and found the same results, waxed or unwaxed it behaves ok either way.
Anyway, I really like this finish because it can all be done in an HVLP gun which reallllly reduces the final labor investment, and you get a professional looking finish every time.
Me too! Lol
Really great finish, thanks for the detailed process and tips.
2:21 - Terror swept over me, hoping this will actually come off and turn out well haha. Looks amazing! I would have never thought to do that
Beautiful work! I hope your girls appreciate the craftsmanship 😊
Thank you for just talking in layman's terms. Very informative and certainly improves my ability to deal with padauk..
Great job
Thank you very much
I've used a different method and my piece has been in direct sunlight thru a window for 6 years. It has retained the red while only darkening slightly. I used waxed shellac, it actually kept the wood brighter than sealer without wax. Then I put UV water poly, then I put UV resin on top of that. Always test a sample since different products brands have different results. You may also want to switch the order of resin and poly but complications may arise.
I did this finish to a guitar I built, but I added a twist- start with pure tung oil(+mineral spirits and japan drier) to give it an oil based look. It gives the padauk a nice red tint that shows up beautifully after the shellac sealer and water based top coat.
TOO CUTE AND TOO GOOD.
Really NICE job. 👌🏻❤️❤️
Really enjoyed your steps to achieve the final Sheen. Do you have a video on making these beautiful boxes ? Thx again for sharing !
Thank You so much for this informative video, Love the How To ,You guys are really great. I'll look for more or your vids.
That's great to hear, thanks for checking them out
wow, this is one of my favorite videos. :)
I can't tell you how much I enjoyed your video. I love working with padauk and your project has really inspired me. Thank you!
You're too kind! So glad you got something out of the video, and can't wait to see what you make -
Sweet!
Hi Mark,
I enjoyed your project very much! I have a question, I'm putting Padauk in the bed of my truck. Would like to keep the bright orange color and I would like it to be able to hold up to the weather as will.
What would you suggest?
Thanks again and the video was great! 🔨
WOW. I went from a what the heck is he doing to a true believer in the course of this video.
Hi, old video but worth a try.. I ve got a box made of padauk... but it keeps turning white, some sort of "crystals" that feel oily when wiped and it always comes back.. I ve found an article its oxidation, do you have any ideas how could I prevent this from returning?
WoW!!! Great design, good lines, and rich colors. Though the White Oak, as per usual, developed a weird greenish tint. Why?
Wow! Now imagine doing a whole Mission or Shaker kitchen cabinet job in Padauk! I wouldn't know where to start! Would you prefinish all the lumber first, or maybe after cutting boards to length, or after any routing, or some other step or just wait until after assembly?
It's always a tough call. But it does spare you some frustration to do what ever finishing you can do before assembly. But you've got to make the judgement call about when it makes sense and when it doesn't.
What color of Timbermate would you recommend for Padauk if you didn't want the filler to be so dark? Which one would blend in the best with Padauk's color?
Awesome , what's your take on using PU clear coats to make it glossy and lasting ?
Thank you
Thanks. I'm curious about how well this will work for a guitar fretboard. Paduak _is_ used for guitars, but not much, and I have yet to see one with a Paduak Fretboard. I fear that a coating would be worn off with use. Fingernails get in close contact with the fretboard, sometimes scratching it. It might end up like a lot of Maple fretboards, which are also coated.
Would you please show how the color of the box(es) looks now in 2022 after 3 years please?
I'm having trouble in my small town finding de-waxed shellac. But I'll keep trying. I'm curious though...does your formula also work with red cedar? Because it also turns quite dark after time. Thanks for this video :-))
Gorgeous looking I don’t have your skill but will try with walnut and hope that u could put the instructions of making it😅😅
Thx
Thanks for the video, I recently bought some Padauk and I'm excited to try it out. You referenced using water based poly as it has the UV inhibitors but I'm wondering if you think the GF Arm-R-Seal oil based poly would also do the job just as well. Thanks again!
What grain filler did you use for this? I've been looking at other projects and the grain filler seems to add a lot to the appearance of the wood.
Sean Huskinson it’s called timbermate 👍
@@WoodworkersSourcecom Thanks!
Love this finish, but a question: When is it best to either use - or avoid - water-based vs oil-base wood filler for project like this?
Automotive clear coat will keep the color forever with a perfect level finish no sanding or buffing required. ‘If done correctly with an auto spray gun’
I like to rub it in as sealer letting it soak in. Sand once and hammer the clear in a heated booth until perfect.
Boom!
Really like how your finish turned out. Question: Do you think I could add wood filler after I’ve applied dewaxed shellac (as opposed to before) and have a similar result? I carved some spoons out of Padauk, wiped ‘em with acetate then applied multiple coats of dewaxed shellac but before I saw your video
Dennis Obergfell yes but I wouldn’t use the water based timbermate filler. An oil based paste wood filler will work better when going on top of a sealer. Not sure really what would happen with the water based stuff being applied after the sealer.
Is the finish you use on the Padauk a good finish to use on Cherry or is there another finish you'd recommend?
Depends on the project. But yes I’d use this one for an interior furniture piece
Great video! Was wondering, instead of Denatured Alcohol, can you use Acetone or Mineral Spirits?
Probably not, but thinning it isn’t very critical anyway
Can you use that on a cutting board?
Not recommend, frankly
I have a 30 year old padauk bed and Ive been so scared of restoring it because Im sure Ill destroy its beautiful colour. This gives me some hope, though getting all these supplies in India is near impossible.
What would be a good alternative to naphtha for cleaning the mineral oil? I can't seem to find that product anywhere.
Mineral spirits should work
Naptha is illegal in some states, Klean Strip sells a replacement called Painter's solvent; Home Depot sells it. I've used it and seems to work though I don't know how it compares to the real stuff.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom so any paint thinner?
Now that it’s been 2 1/2 yrs, how’s the red holding up or has it changed to a walnut color?
Glad you asked. Believe it or not it’s still red, but it is darkening. More maroonish orange in color now
@@WoodworkersSourcecom Thank You!
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I made 4 clocks for gifts this past Christmas. One of them was framed w/Padauk and I used your formula for the finish. Turned out great. I’m looking at it now. So far, it’s holding its color. Thanks again.
@@dframed9305 that’s great to hear! 👍
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I have a question about paste wood filler. I’ve used it on many projects to get a great high gloss finish. However, I’m looking into using a gold mica to fill the pores for a more sparkling high gloss look. Do you think it’s possible or will I have to open the pores with a fine point awl or a tiny little drill bit? Thoughts???
Are all of the products that you used available in Canada? Zinsser, General Finishes, Howard, etc?
Sorry to say, I do not know.
@@WoodworkersSourcecom I just searched Zinsser clear shellac and it appears Lowes has it. Amazon has the General Finishes products.
The background music should have been way louder. Foreground music FTW.
Why would you use a black wood filler, instead of just rubbing wood glue on and then sanding over it?
That would work too
Really enjoying most of these vids, but have to suggest balancing the volume of the music to the narration. If I get the music volume to the preferred level, I can't hear the narration. Get the narration volume up and the music is way too loud. This vid is a good example of that.
Honestly I think this padauk is already a but aged. Fresh padauk is bright shade of reddish orange
How can this be done on a much larger project
The only thing that would change is possibly your choice of applicators. Shellac could be sprayed if you want, but the pad by hand method works just fine too. And with the waterbased topcoat you can use larger brushes or those big flat pads you can get in the paint dept at the hardware store if you're dealing with a large table top (or something else big and flat.)
HVLP.
Well done son.. you have some beautiful girls there.. you strike me as a good dad.. May your girls grow up to be happy self assured women!
Music is very irritating. Great content though.
Filler looks ugly on the splines.
I like your dedication, but I'm not so charmed by the final result. It feels quite artificial to me and it does not preserve the spontaneous and lively display of the original colour. I simply finish the sanding with P400 and finally polish paper it. Then I apply beeswax from a solid stick, rub it so it warms, melts and spreads over the surface. I do admit, it doesn't hold the original colour forever, but if you put it in a shady place it lights this up for years, while it ever so slowy matures in clour, like I do
P
looks great but why go thru all that instead of just keeping it natural with maybe a really thin layer single coat of oil or wax and buff it clean, then keep it in a bedroom out of sunlight and it would look beautiful all the time with its natural orange color?
wood that work?
in my opinion woods look best when left to look as natural as possible, it’s most beautiful that way with all the imperfections and colors. to me all these oils and sealers take away from that.
when building projects that are going to stay indoors, and applying sealers is just a wY is saying you don’t like the way wood looks.
i built cabinet for my shop out of poplar, and applied just a little butcher block oil only to keep moisture out.
they don’t look sealed, and they don’t look like plastic, and they don’t look shiny.
they look like wood, because they are.