There's no need to use special "sintering carbon", any activated carbon should work (sold for water filters or fish-tank filters). Or even a carbon source that will become activated carbon on heating, like paper or wood, though that would require a ceramic tile to lay on top of the crucible to limit air getting in. Putting a tile on top of the crucible to limit airflow is probably a good idea regardless.
Yes, this right here is correct: Any plain old charcoal will work. (not the BBQ stuff with fillers, regular charcoal) To make it easily, put the cheapest untreated wood (not driftwood) in a metal can with a hole in the top on a fire or in a kiln. Roast it until the inside is black all the way through. granulate that by putting it under a rolling pin and seiving to the desired fineness.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD They can have additives in them, afaik to keep moisture out and binders to make it less brittle. You can convert BBC charcoal to activated carbon, by burning it without the presence of oxygen, pyrolysing all the unwanted stuff to gas.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD BBQ Charcoal is not the material charcoal. It is a mixture of mostly ash and a little real charcoal powder so it burns as coals the moment its lit. Real charcoal is more often used for forging steel and similar and its only made of carbonized wood.
@@Firefox-cr3jw Right. If the gear system on your vehicle is directly exposed to combustion gases your problems have already eclipsed the melting point of aluminum. ;P OPs idea is worthwhile, though. Just pointing out that there are valid ways to do that which aren't necessarily less *work* but are certainly more accessible. No specially ordered kilns required or special filaments and all the parts are easily DIYed.
"It melted the steel!" Yeah, this is why aerospikes are generally a bad idea... (actually one of the biggest reasons they aren't really used). You could try a de Laval though!
I think you may have won the 3d printer :D leme know if u did and what u going to make you should make a crossbow or bear trap them would be cool if you win
@@joeyidontnoyu the point of the nozzles is that they compress it to reach mach 1 at the throat, and then expand. A really small pressure could be brought to mach 1 with a small throat
@@JerryBrower the problem is most likely foremost the excess oxygen literally burning the metal away. it isnt melting as much as it just gets oxidized super fast
Watch from 16:19-16:25 on 0.5x speed. At about 16:22 you can see the nozzle throw out of the exhaust. I don't know if this means it melted or burnt or whatever... Well, technically it did neither. The supports did, and the nozzle flew off.
Also, there are a lot of sparks and pieces of metal flaking off during the entire engine burn. I honestly don't know fully what to make of it, but I'd say the force of the burn plus the temperature is causing the metal to basically peal off. Maybe a better sintering would counteract this somewhat.
@@vaelophisnyx9873 Yeah... That does seem likely. It also makes it so when it expands from heat, it'll kinda pop and break apart, easier to flake off, easier to peal away... Hmm. Yeah. I'd like to see exactly what that bronze looks like on the inside close up. Like if it were cut in half and then put under magnification. How solid it is, what the gaps look like.
@@plzletmebefrank Might work better at larger scale where heat dissipation (be it "into the mass" or a coolant) is a bit more manageable. Hot spot develops in small parts, not a whole lot of time to react to it in some way to prevent catastrophic failure. Not that real deal big boy toys aren't known for spontaneously going wrong... 🤣
Nice work. Having worked in the rocket engine business for a few years I have a few suggestions to make your nozzle last longer. I suspect given how long the flame out the back is you are running significantly oxidizer rich combustion, and that is burning out the steel nozzle the same way an oxy acetylene torch would cut through steel. Fun fact about oxy acetylene cutting, once the cut is initiated you can cut the fuel flow and finish the cut. I'd try running less oxygen if you are going to stick with the steel material you are currently using. Second suggestion. Material change. The site you got your materials from have an inconel 718 filament listed. I don't know if your overn will do their sintering profile, but of the materials I saw at a quick glance that inco 718 material has the best shot at resisting oxidation in a nozzle application. A monel or mondaloy would be better, but I doubt they will be making those into filaments anytime soon. Third suggestion. The metal filament company has an aluminum 6061 filament listed. You might try printing your fuel grain out of that and not sintering it. Aluminum will be a lot more energetic than the plastics you are currently using as fuel. One bot about that is that the exhaust will contain aluminum oxide which will cause serious erosion/abrasion of your nozzle throat. Just a heads up. I hope you found this helpful, and if you ever have any questions about rocket engines/technology I'd be happy to chat. Keep up the great work and stay safe!
I don't know that anybody has really used a solid aluminum fuel grain in a hybrid. People have experimented with adding aluminum to wax and rubber grains but not like your are suggesting. In this case, I suppose it wouldn't be solid if you left out the sintering step, but you risk the fuel grain being too brittle, cracking, clogging the nozzle then motor go boom. The core issue to hybrids is getting high regression rates of the fuel, which is why wax based grains are generally preferred. A lot of people have spent a lot of time trying to get the right balance of physical properties with high regression rate. Honestly, might be good to try just using the printed part without baking off the resin at all. That wont really help with regression rate, and the temps would be much higher so the printed aerospike would not survive, but it would look neat. Try it with a standard graphite nozzle. I think the best answer to this particular bench top demo motor is to lower the oxidizer flow rate. Or build it up as a bi-propellant with gaseous propane, dial the O/F ratio running fuel rich, then test the aerospike nozzles.
I have questions for you. I feel like a bell nozzle would have had greater success, more likely to keep the sides cool. easier to make changes. simpler to 3d print. with a bell nozzle you might be able to print it in multiple materials like have the inside have a ablative material that would take the heat with it for its short operation cycle. how do space shuttle tiles work? can they absorb the heat if they were made the lining of the engine? is any of that possible?
@@keith3761 I have some answers. Let's see if they go with your questions. A bell nozzle I think would have the same issues of erosion and potential for combustion of the nozzle material at the throat, plus I don't know what pressure he is running and if he would benefit from additional expansion. The bell nozzle only works if you have enough pressure to choke a converging nozzle and then still have enough pressure to accelerate the flow to supersonic velocities. So that's a hard one to know for sure without a bunch of instrumentation. As far as easier to make, I'm not sure. The simpler the nozzle geometry likely the easier it will be to make in my experience. Multi material nozzles are all over in rocketry. It's popular to make nozzles out of phenolic ablative material and use some metal outer layer to give it the structure it needs to survive the pressure. I also think I recall seeing inserts for solid rocket motor nozzle throats, but I can't remember off hand what they made them out of. They were there to resist erosion from the hot aluminum oxide rich exhaust gas usually. The space shuttle tiles were not ablative from what I remember. They were a carbon carbon composite that could withstand tremendous heat and not lose their structural integrity. Given their difficulty in manufacturing I think they might be beyond the typical hobbyists capabilities to make. They mostly worked by not absorbing the heat. They were more of a heat shield. As far as using them in an engine, I suppose it's possible, but I've sure not seen it done. Most of the time they either cool the surfaces that need it, or just use an ablative material there.. I'm not sure if that's a "we've always done it that way and we aren't going to change" ,or if it's more of a " we tried that and couldn't get it to work right" situation. You would be surprised how often in the rocket industry it's it's former. I have seen a carbon fiber composite rocket combustion chamber and nozzle before. It was pretty slick. It was cooled by hydrogen leaking through the inside Lauer into the combustion chamber and nozzle liner. That was a cool bit of engineering. I hope that answered your questions, and if you have more please feel free to keep them coming. Edited to add: you are probably right that a bell nozzle would be easier to make, i forgot this was for an aerospike nozzle. Tha difficulty with the bell nozzle would be in sizing the exit. Too much and you overexpand, too small and you underexpand. You can only size the bell nozzle perfectly for one atmospheric exit pressure and throttle condition.
I am in the rocket engine business as well and I have no comment. He did a damn good job for delivering a hybrid for the lowest cost just for the sake of it.
@@richardsuckerson49 ratio. Edit: perfect flame is just enough oxygen to fully burn the fuel. He used more oxygen than the fuel needed so he accually burned the steel away (see wiki Blowtorch, this concept is fully explained)
Print the nozel in a way, that the Fuel/Oxidizer first runs through cooling ducts on the nozel and then burns away (Thats what actual rockets do sometimes)
Turned out beautiful! Looks pretty time intensive though. I think it'd be pretty interesting to try printing a tensile test bar with it, and compare it to homogeneous mild steel -- see how much strength you lose with sintering vs e.g. machining. Although I guess for rocket engines yield strength doesn't really matter haha
If you've got an excess of Oxygen going through the nozzle, then it's going to act like an oxy/acetylene torch where the heat plus the O2 burns the steel away, destroying the nozzle in the process.
Yes, this is 100% the issue. You can tell by the flame color and sparks that it is oxidizing. Too much oxygen will destroy pretty much anything. Cooling the nozzle will not help. You want a slightly fuel rich combustion to prevent this from happening.
How about making the o2 port smaller, that away less o2 coming in the combustion chamber that away it’s a richer mix or how about something that burns a little bit cooler. You won’t necessarily lose thrust this way.
If you're already in the business of sintering metal, perhaps you could build a nozzle from layered sheets of metal cut out by a water jet cutter, or laser.
Well, it's also not entirely untrue, steel _is_ permeable to temperature (i.e. temperature can make its way through steel). But yeah, "impermeable" means something can't get through, while "impervious" means it's not affected. Actually, I just had to check since I don't trust my own understanding of the english language, and at least according to Merriam-Webster both are synonymous, at least for the definition of something "not allowing entrance or passage". My second part (and yours) is correct though, when talking about something being unaffected by something else, "impervious" is the right word to use.
Video Idea: with this new knowledge and the possibility of printing metal at home try to create a liquid-powered rocket that runs on O2 and RP4 or CH4. (Create a mini raptor engine or something similar). Would make for a great project and especially would be very interesting, because rocket science at home... edit: It would be even cooler if you could integrate this into a model rocket
Making liquid fueled rockets is hard because you need to somehow pump the fuel and oxidizer against the pressure of the reaction chamber. Hybrid N2O/PMMA engines are easier for the amateur because N2O will self-pressurize at room temperature while O2 and CH4 must be pumped as cryogenic liquids.
compressed CH4 could work. It might be way easier than doing a hybrid style like in the video. I wonder if he could even design cooling channels right into the engine block. Supposedly that is why most major rocket engine manufacturers are switching to some form of 3D printing.
Project concept: Try powering the rocket with gunpowder. You might not even need extra oxygen to do that. Next idea: Try making a Tesla turbine with 3D-printed metal parts. Another idea: Make a rocket out of household items and see how good it is. I would love to see Yours interpretation of one of these ideas :) thanks guys for discussion about my idea :P Keep in mind that Tomatoes are disgusting!
@@heyitsgowcow spell check? I built a flying object from household crap. How is a rocket defined? Burning fuel propels an object by thrust. Homemade "Firework" with 6' steel bike gear cable pulled a kite up into the sky.. Rocket power??? Just asking?
You can't get gun powder, ammonium nitrate, and a whole host of other things in the EU so easily, and if you did, if you used it for this purpose it would be illegal. Model rocketry is essentially banned once you go beyond 100m. UK, not part of EU has seems more liberal about it, and also Sweden.
@@ZeroCool-vn9bd wow, here in the us, we have modle rockets that go well above 100 meters, I made one that went 6000 ft up, some people have made model rockets so good that they are essentially real rockets, they make it to the Karman line, those ones need faa approval for a specific location and need to be many miles from any population, faa makes sure it wont be in the path of a plane.
My buddy and I tried something like this a few tips , put a layer of the “sand” and pack it well with a wood stick as a tamp then place the part into it and pour a few centimeters of sand on and around it then use a sander to vibrate the sand down repeat this until the part is covered then use the sander again then tamp down the sand and place the carbon on top you can tamp it but we never noticed a difference, another tip you could maybe use a thermal paint or something like it to coat the part for better heat performance or possibly a form of plating would work
I've got an idea for a combination heat shield/rocket engine. Fiscripyion below 1) Central combustion chamber/s feeding a ring of nozzles that are oriented at 45° from the forward axis. The nozzles basically point in the opposite direction as normal. 2) The exhaust gases flow over an arched surface towards the perimeter. In profile the arch would only be one half of a full arch. 3) At the perimeter have a series of flaps that extend below the perimeter of the arched arched surface. 4) As the engine functions the gas flow across the surface increases pressure across the surface. The flaps at the outer edge cause gases to build up increasing the pressure at the edge. Think of the engine as being similiar to a blown wing on an aircraft. In reality the engine could probably be tested with low temperature materials using steam or even water sprayed at high presdure across the surface. The idea isn't to achieve an engine capable of propelling the vehicle in the launch phase. But instead to have an engine that would use the same structure as the re-entry heat shield as it's working surface. This could be used in an orbital vehicle that re-entry tail first and lands vertically. And while rocket engines work by ejecting a gas at high velocity and pressure that pressure is acting on the engine bell or aerospike surfaces as it expands to produce thrust.
Hey integza, from my experiments with sintering I got the best results packing the parts in fine Epsom salt and only a thin layer of carbon on top. I'd give that a try
Integza the jewelry casting process using pla instead of wax is also incredibly easy and best part is that with the right torch you can do steel parts in minutes instead of hours with no shrinkage and no pores.
Metal clay may be fun for you to try. It's similar to this product. But it's one step using water and organic binders . Ruby is aluminum oxide so be careful of contamination. Any suspension always will shrink when the binders are burnt off.
Printing metal filament is something that seemed just too good to be true but apparently isn't anymore. With this you can maybe revisit the tesla valve pulsejet engine!
@@matsv201 I'm not sure, I personally don't see any reason why if your foundry reaches high enough temperatures that you couldn't use higher melting point metals. Layer thickness seems to be a limiting factor currently. Although I don't think the parts from this 3d printer method are homogenous enough to be used for high strength or high temperature uses. But it fits the niche of home printing for when plastic is too weak. (Although having an oven capable of this is still beyond most) For industrial aplications this is too slow and labour intensive anyway but printing with lasers and metal powder does work a lot better. Although still way too expensive for home use.
Possible alternatives - Titanium filament or multiple parts instead of a single solid nozzle. Also from the printing appearance looks like you can trim down your layer heights to make the layers more compact/dense (e.g. go to fine vs rough mode on the 3d printer). I know the steel may not be able to handle the temperatures, but can you test with compressed water or some other non-burning method. The steel one performed very well though, congrats!!
would be interesting to see whether induction heaters can be used ps. remelting it (salt baking style) as a pre-processing step might help the layer separation; also, copper alloys might be better for rocket nozzles as they might melt, but will not oxidise into obscurity
Tough as screws is probably more apt. Wire nails are actually designed to be pretty malleable and ductile. They are designed to mainly hold alignment for shearing forces. This is why home construction uses nails mostly in line with the forces (nails align the wood and bend as needed, but keep the surfaces aligned able to transfer load). Screws on the other hand are hardened, the screw (wedge) is taking a lot of tension, but are more brittle as a consequence of being heat hardened (they break easier under shearing loads). However old cut nails were a bit different, they could hardened or not.
@@LogicalNiko i wonder if work hardening plays a role there, really old nails were forged by hand, can imagine that depending on the type of steel they'd be quite a lot harder than modern wire nails.
Video idea: Since you seem to love rotating forces, let's exploit the momentum. Build a gimbal with 2 rotating disks shifted by 90 degrees (X and Z axis stabilization) and use their momentum to cancel the vibration induced by the camera operator.
Since 3D printing metal is difficult, you might try using lost wax casting. You're already using this to cast ceramics. Create a ceramic mold which attaches, upside down, to the top of your ceramic cup. Fill the cup with small pieces of metal then attach the mold to the top. Put the whole thing in the kiln. When the metal is molten, take the whole assembly out of the kiln, flip it over so the metal flows into the mold, shake / slosh it to get the molten metal into all corners of the mold, then let it cool. You use your tongs to move it , and the mold is specifically made to cover the entire top of the cup so the molten metal is never visible and never likely to get splashed on you or anything else. You're pretty clever; I'm betting you can figure out the rest. I remember reading an article, some years ago, where an artist was actually doing this with an industrial microwave oven, not a kiln, to cast small, decorative metal pieces. His was specifically making his molds to completely cover the cup where he was melting the metal, such that all he had to do was take it out, flip it over, put it on a vibration table to get metal into corners and get bubbles out of the metal, then let it cool.
2030: How I 3D printed a planet to land on with my 3D Printed Rocket. Idee for another video before 2030 ( =] ): Try to use some liquid or gas for fuel. That way you don't have to clean your chamber every time and you can run your thruster way longer and also don't use the fuel as a structural part to hold the nozzle to stop it from falling off.
That's another hell of an engineering Prosses liquid engines are another mountain of problems. Pressure gas flow valves injectors the system to actuate them and if he is using lox as oxidiser you need a cryogenic version for each. Ther is a reason why most amateur rockets are solid fuel it's just easier you put the fuel in the tube bam rocket.
@@stekra3159 i didn't consider that. maybe a solid engine with granulat is an optan. that way you are also able to input fuel into the system while it's running
@@Kevin7557 Now seriously, you are right. Breathing pure oxygen makes organism produce toxins faster than they can be removed which leads to death much faster than breathing air.
Now that you can 3D print metal reliably, I cant wait to see how many of your older projects you can revamp with better parts. In particular, if you could make metal turbine blades for your water rocket. As an added bonus, the (potential) shrapnel would be even more dangerous!
Here`s something: 1. Get a ultrasonic cleaning bath for your small parts 2. Attach a spring on that rail. Using something like a baggage hand scale measure the force needed to extend the spring. Mark some positions on the rail so we can see whenever you`re testing how much thrust it produces in real time
Great video, didn't think it was possible to 3d print metal with a run-of-the-mill home 3d printer, but it is, apparently! Some tips: -You can 3d print the rough shape and then work it with a milling machine and/or lathe to get it to a precise shape -weigh the shape, then measure it's volume by submerging it in water and note the displacement. Then you can calculate it's density so you can get an idea of how solid it is, which you really want with anything load bearing. -as a wannabe rocket scientist, I find this a great development. Now if I can only hire a nice volcano somewhere for my mad scientist laboratory..
I think you should try this: make a negative mold of your nozzle in ceramic, then melt a bunch of the steel filament and pour it into your mold. This should reduce shrinkage to a minimum if you overfill the mold a bit, and then you can sinter, and all the metal will sink thanks to gravity, leaving you with a 100% fill part with no defects... Also, aerospikes need to be cooled internally, otherwise they melt, even in real world engines.
I know that this is has been mentioned (a lot) but; Cooling. You need to cool the nozzle as you have seen with even the "steel". With active cooling you could probably even go back to the ceramic. Also, you don't need the center spike, it just takes up space and acts as a heating element soaking up heat from the stagnation zone of the exhaust.
You mean with the engines that produces way less thrust than they weigh, even without the large oxygen / fuel tanks that he feeds them from and those that explode almost every time after 3 seconds ? Sound like a good idea :)
Integza, you should try creating your own pulse jet engine using the metal printer or refine your turbo jet engine, or create an rc airplane with petersripol
16:28 i don't think it melt, when you heat steel to a certain temperature and add oxygene it start to burn. this effect is use to cut steel ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting ). i believe that some rocket nozzle are built in stainless steel and at my knowledge the process of cutting stainless steel like that isn't possible or at least isn't used.
looked pretty molten to me tho with the blobs of liquid metal ;) if you actually burned the steel you'd have a whole other load of issues. the "certain temperature" for steel to burn (as with *every* material, since solids and liquids can't actually burn, only rust or smoulder) is *above* its melting point. also, quoting the page you linked: "Pure oxygen, instead of air, is used to *increase the flame temperature* to allow localized *melting* of the workpiece material (e.g. steel) in a room environment."
The struts supporting the spike weren't very thick. It wouldn't be hard for the oxygen rich exhaust to erode them in seconds given the operating temperature.
I love that you show your fails as well as victories. For a future video....a rocket propelled arrow that is shot from a bow. Or even just print different sorts of arrows and shoot them from a compound crossbow then evaluate the damage...the sharpness held by the arrow after being shot into wood or a hay bale, and the accuracy of a rocket driven arrow. Maybe figure a way for the rocket power to engage after the arrow is fired. Or propell a paraglider if you are feeling super adventurous
It would be really cool if you could build exterior channels into the 3d printed nozzle to run nitrous oxide through. There's some pretty cool research around using supercritical nitrous oxide to cool aerospike nozzles.
Video idea: try doing it again but run a really high flow rate pump and integrate water channels into the design to allow it to last longer, hopefully indefinitely. This could be a first step into building a really high thrust test rocket... or you could use an old air conditioner to make so you could get the nozzle nice and cold so it should last longer before it heats up
Video Idea: Now that you can 3D print metal, you should make a converging diverging nozzle out of metal, cooled via the blood of your enemy (tomato juice)
Okay had an idea. If your engine is overheating include changes in the parts that overheat to allow cold propellant gassed to flow through them, use the fuel to cool the structcure. early rockets had that system If I recall correctly. Create one central inlet, with small channels running in a coil inside the body of the combustion chamber and nozzle feeding back to the injection ports. If you injecting fuel and oxidizer through those ports, it cools the shell ad preheats the gasses. as well as allowing you to create a tailored injection pattern for both fuel and oxidizer
Integza: “The best you can do with a commercial 3D printer is get parts out of plastic or resin.” False. The best you can do with a commercial 3D printer is get parts out of chocolate.
@@nefariousyawn yes this would be the ideal way, but I'm betting he could use blue sharpie and a pair of calipers to mark where to trim it down to and then apply a disc sander in increasing grits he might already own?
I fell in love with Tesla at the age of around 12. He and the wright brothers have been my idols. In growing up, I forgot my passions. Your passion for expirementation and Tesla have reignited my inventor passions
I honestly love TH-cam, and how insane it is. Every change is either met with "meh" or unbridled rage. The whole idea of letting anyone, anywhere, upload anything they want? Madness. Pure madness... But yet it flies!
Mostly false. It used to be like that before Google bought TH-cam. Now, If you upload anything that critiques anything mainstream, or questions anything at all, your content gets both demonetised and channel removed if you "violate" their vague ToS.
@@spokehedz you don't get my point. How are they champions of "fReE sPeEcH" when they have the means to THROTTLE, and Shadow Ban, videos? You might be too naïve to believe that Google's TH-cam never will throttle anyone. 'h3te sPeEch' is still free speech, free speech is free speech. Fools would only say otherwise. And these fools are easily hurt by mere words and critiques. Also imho TH-cam should have never been sold to Google. Unless you worked for Google, and know otherwise.
What's the sintering temperature for something like that? Also is Inconel as susceptible to burning with added oxygen as steel? It seems keeping the oxygen content under control is pretty important. Ceramics has the advantage it takes a lot to make it melt and even more to get it to burn even with added oxygen (AFAIK). Unfortunately ceramics is also rather fragile and prone to crack.
Kudos on the achievement of obtaining a solid metal part from 3D printing! Suggestion: Flip it upside down such that the flat part is horizontal to the ground, but on top. This should result in less warp. If your sintered product is significantly deformed, it's too much heat. If parts aren't sintered, it's too little heat and not enough time. If you want very high temperature metal combined with near-zero corrosion, try Hastelloy.
Use a stronger more heat-resistant metal to make an aerospike nozzle. Also, put cooling into it like a liquid cooling system. Then make a staged rocket using multiple engines, and see how far you get. That would be a sick vid/series.
You should be able to make an hourglass rocket engine using sugar and potassium chlorate for fuel. Or zinc and sulfer. The engine itself where the throat that controls the flow isn't very large. Certainly no larger than the aerospike. I am truly impressed by the way. That was an outstanding achievement! One thing I haven't figured out is why people aren't using casting chambers in which the metal to put in the cast is in a chamber above the mold and connected via a hole in the sand. Then, you could use argon to flush the entire system before heating it up, use electricity to heat the metal which would then flow into the lower part containing the mold. Since everything is being flushed with argon oxidation won't be a big issue, and because your not exposing the metal to the air when it is heated and forged it will not cool as fast and you should get a better cast. In fact, you could easily use electricity to make the metal cast cool as slowly as you wish. This is just an idea I had while watching your video. You will have my email address as a patreon of your site, please contact me to discuss this.
That was awesome integza. One thing I would suggest is retrying this after sandblasting the nozzle path to make the surface flush in order to avoid any turbulence in the flow.
Your next video should be about making supports out of that metal 3d printing filament and test them útil they break to test the proprieties of those metal parts, but the supports have to be designed only by artificial intelligence or also known as topology optimization (solid woks and fusion 360 have that design option available and is really starting to get used in supercars and aerospace industries). Please leave a like I would love a 3d printer I’m studying electromechanical engineering and live in Argentina. Thank you ❤️❤️
Just one extra note If you try to make parts using this mixture the mixture will shrink Is by a small amount Be sure to Make your parts Bigger than they're supposed to be If you choose to use this mixture to make heat resistant parts To make parts You want to use very little water Almost to the consistency of Plato
I'm impressed. I truly enjoy the way you experiment with certain materials going way outside the parameters of what their engineered for. And that is how you make progress and now we know. Yeah it's going to fail but it was cool!
Hey! Love your videos! I hope someone remembers this, there were like 10 years ago some phone stickers that were flashing if there was an incoming call, soooo ... video idea: a 3d printed phone case with some nice, light bulb design so when someone gets a call the bulb on the case lights up :D
u need to weld a sheet metal flange to mount the nozzle to and then just print cylindrical fuel rod to avoid the melting and falling off problem. Very impressive series btw.
Looks great! I think you could Also check of the part is solid by determining the density and them comparing it to the metal you made it of. Requires less holes ;-)
I always assumed "Tough as Nails" was marketing hype from when nail manufactures were trying to get people to stop joining everything with joinery and pins and use their metal nails instead.
People do this with PLA filament. RotarySMP recently demonstrated this, as well as many other channels I'm sure. I think he has all of the equipment that he would need.
Steel is VERY hard to cast it needs to be much hotter, so it burns more in air and also shrinks a lot more, which makes the molds much harder (sometimes practically impossible) to design, and also molten steel is thicker, so much less able to fill in fine details
@@alfredorotondo nearly impossible to get complex shapes out of cast iron & yea, it too has to be VERY hot in order to properly pour for a cast. Not to mention it's extremely brittle
Dude Joel he literally explains why not at the start of the video. Because he wanted to do it with steel and steel is hard to do in that method with what he has but also he just wanted to 3D print it
You need to feed the oxygen through a tube wrapped around the outside of the nozzle and then run the tube back to the top and feed in the oxygen to the rocket as you would normally. As the high pressure oxygen runs through the tube it will make the tube very cold. It will cool the outside of the nozzle as the rocket burns.
Well, I guess you can heat-treat you metal 3D printed parts. You have all the tools you need for that. Also, to fill in the tiny bubbles inside the print, you can use electrolysis to deposit some metal on the surface and then re-melt it to fuse it all together.
A "remelt" without , say... a graphite or some type of mold that can handle extreme heat. Idk? Maybe a simple homemade mold will work...but there is the chance it could make it worse. Probably worth trying if you have the materials....!
I'm old school. I would have 3D printed the model, then made a silicon mold of it, with Aluminium powder to keep it rigid. Then I would have made a cast of the piece in plaster, created a mold in epoxy resin with 'green sand' & poured in molten Aluminium. Of course you could short cut the process by creating a 3D printed mold, rather than the piece itself. Now that is what I'd like to see Integza do, make a 3D printed mold, so I can skip the silicon mold step. I would also like to see Integza make a 3D print from either a LIDAR scan or Photogrammetry scan with a tutorial on which software to use. He can use a family member as the scanned object. Obrigado Integzinho.
I was reluctant to buy into the whole 'printing metal at home with a normal printer' thing until you hammered that nozzle into the wood. That right there sold me.
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Im so bored that im watching a video from a guy on youtube about 3d printing metal
Yoooooooooo
I thought I would find you eventually
I’m so bored I checked the comments
BORED
Oh yeah? Im so bored Im eating marmite with a spoon!
I don't blame that aerospike tip for melting. I'd melt in the presence of the Tomato Lord as well.
Ahahahah
420?
lol
Integza where did you get your idea from. Because two videos ago I suggest this to you.
@@integza dang it inetzga
There's no need to use special "sintering carbon", any activated carbon should work (sold for water filters or fish-tank filters). Or even a carbon source that will become activated carbon on heating, like paper or wood, though that would require a ceramic tile to lay on top of the crucible to limit air getting in. Putting a tile on top of the crucible to limit airflow is probably a good idea regardless.
Makes sense too me~~:)
Yes, this right here is correct: Any plain old charcoal will work. (not the BBQ stuff with fillers, regular charcoal)
To make it easily, put the cheapest untreated wood (not driftwood) in a metal can with a hole in the top on a fire or in a kiln. Roast it until the inside is black all the way through. granulate that by putting it under a rolling pin and seiving to the desired fineness.
@@notamouse5630 you mean BBQ charcoal ISN'T regular charcoal? 🤔
@@PatrickKQ4HBD They can have additives in them, afaik to keep moisture out and binders to make it less brittle. You can convert BBC charcoal to activated carbon, by burning it without the presence of oxygen, pyrolysing all the unwanted stuff to gas.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD BBQ Charcoal is not the material charcoal. It is a mixture of mostly ash and a little real charcoal powder so it burns as coals the moment its lit. Real charcoal is more often used for forging steel and similar and its only made of carbonized wood.
video idea: use the 3d printed metal to make more sturdy gears and make a functional vehicle with them.
That would be very hard because the gears may shrink at different rates or warp slightly causing the gears to break themselves
you mean an RC vehicle? because that's as much as you could accomplish with that
Cool idea, upvoted it, buuuuut...
Why not just sand-cast them out of aluminum? O.o
@@Cheebzsta aluminum has a very low Melting point
@@Firefox-cr3jw Right.
If the gear system on your vehicle is directly exposed to combustion gases your problems have already eclipsed the melting point of aluminum. ;P
OPs idea is worthwhile, though. Just pointing out that there are valid ways to do that which aren't necessarily less *work* but are certainly more accessible.
No specially ordered kilns required or special filaments and all the parts are easily DIYed.
"It melted the steel!" Yeah, this is why aerospikes are generally a bad idea... (actually one of the biggest reasons they aren't really used). You could try a de Laval though!
Works too good.
Materials science falls behind too.
May need to be a holographic part.
Somehow.
c/d nozzles are useless when the fluid is below mach 1
I think you may have won the 3d printer :D leme know if u did and what u going to make you should make a crossbow or bear trap them would be cool if you win
@@joeyidontnoyu the point of the nozzles is that they compress it to reach mach 1 at the throat, and then expand. A really small pressure could be brought to mach 1 with a small throat
@@JerryBrower the problem is most likely foremost the excess oxygen literally burning the metal away. it isnt melting as much as it just gets oxidized super fast
The nozzle didnt melt, it burnt. The oxygen rich exhaust cobined with the heat is oxidicing iron/steel increadibly fast
Watch from 16:19-16:25 on 0.5x speed. At about 16:22 you can see the nozzle throw out of the exhaust.
I don't know if this means it melted or burnt or whatever... Well, technically it did neither. The supports did, and the nozzle flew off.
Also, there are a lot of sparks and pieces of metal flaking off during the entire engine burn. I honestly don't know fully what to make of it, but I'd say the force of the burn plus the temperature is causing the metal to basically peal off. Maybe a better sintering would counteract this somewhat.
@@plzletmebefrank I'd argue that Sintering will never be the way to go for this; leave too many pores and makes the metal awful for cooling
@@vaelophisnyx9873 Yeah... That does seem likely. It also makes it so when it expands from heat, it'll kinda pop and break apart, easier to flake off, easier to peal away...
Hmm. Yeah. I'd like to see exactly what that bronze looks like on the inside close up. Like if it were cut in half and then put under magnification. How solid it is, what the gaps look like.
@@plzletmebefrank Might work better at larger scale where heat dissipation (be it "into the mass" or a coolant) is a bit more manageable. Hot spot develops in small parts, not a whole lot of time to react to it in some way to prevent catastrophic failure.
Not that real deal big boy toys aren't known for spontaneously going wrong... 🤣
Nice work. Having worked in the rocket engine business for a few years I have a few suggestions to make your nozzle last longer. I suspect given how long the flame out the back is you are running significantly oxidizer rich combustion, and that is burning out the steel nozzle the same way an oxy acetylene torch would cut through steel. Fun fact about oxy acetylene cutting, once the cut is initiated you can cut the fuel flow and finish the cut. I'd try running less oxygen if you are going to stick with the steel material you are currently using. Second suggestion. Material change. The site you got your materials from have an inconel 718 filament listed. I don't know if your overn will do their sintering profile, but of the materials I saw at a quick glance that inco 718 material has the best shot at resisting oxidation in a nozzle application. A monel or mondaloy would be better, but I doubt they will be making those into filaments anytime soon. Third suggestion. The metal filament company has an aluminum 6061 filament listed. You might try printing your fuel grain out of that and not sintering it. Aluminum will be a lot more energetic than the plastics you are currently using as fuel. One bot about that is that the exhaust will contain aluminum oxide which will cause serious erosion/abrasion of your nozzle throat. Just a heads up. I hope you found this helpful, and if you ever have any questions about rocket engines/technology I'd be happy to chat. Keep up the great work and stay safe!
I don't know that anybody has really used a solid aluminum fuel grain in a hybrid.
People have experimented with adding aluminum to wax and rubber grains but not like your are suggesting. In this case, I suppose it wouldn't be solid if you left out the sintering step, but you risk the fuel grain being too brittle, cracking, clogging the nozzle then motor go boom.
The core issue to hybrids is getting high regression rates of the fuel, which is why wax based grains are generally preferred. A lot of people have spent a lot of time trying to get the right balance of physical properties with high regression rate.
Honestly, might be good to try just using the printed part without baking off the resin at all. That wont really help with regression rate, and the temps would be much higher so the printed aerospike would not survive, but it would look neat.
Try it with a standard graphite nozzle.
I think the best answer to this particular bench top demo motor is to lower the oxidizer flow rate. Or build it up as a bi-propellant with gaseous propane, dial the O/F ratio running fuel rich, then test the aerospike nozzles.
I have questions for you. I feel like a bell nozzle would have had greater success, more likely to keep the sides cool. easier to make changes. simpler to 3d print. with a bell nozzle you might be able to print it in multiple materials like have the inside have a ablative material that would take the heat with it for its short operation cycle. how do space shuttle tiles work? can they absorb the heat if they were made the lining of the engine? is any of that possible?
@@keith3761 I have some answers. Let's see if they go with your questions. A bell nozzle I think would have the same issues of erosion and potential for combustion of the nozzle material at the throat, plus I don't know what pressure he is running and if he would benefit from additional expansion. The bell nozzle only works if you have enough pressure to choke a converging nozzle and then still have enough pressure to accelerate the flow to supersonic velocities. So that's a hard one to know for sure without a bunch of instrumentation. As far as easier to make, I'm not sure. The simpler the nozzle geometry likely the easier it will be to make in my experience. Multi material nozzles are all over in rocketry. It's popular to make nozzles out of phenolic ablative material and use some metal outer layer to give it the structure it needs to survive the pressure. I also think I recall seeing inserts for solid rocket motor nozzle throats, but I can't remember off hand what they made them out of. They were there to resist erosion from the hot aluminum oxide rich exhaust gas usually. The space shuttle tiles were not ablative from what I remember. They were a carbon carbon composite that could withstand tremendous heat and not lose their structural integrity. Given their difficulty in manufacturing I think they might be beyond the typical hobbyists capabilities to make. They mostly worked by not absorbing the heat. They were more of a heat shield. As far as using them in an engine, I suppose it's possible, but I've sure not seen it done. Most of the time they either cool the surfaces that need it, or just use an ablative material there.. I'm not sure if that's a "we've always done it that way and we aren't going to change" ,or if it's more of a " we tried that and couldn't get it to work right" situation. You would be surprised how often in the rocket industry it's it's former. I have seen a carbon fiber composite rocket combustion chamber and nozzle before. It was pretty slick. It was cooled by hydrogen leaking through the inside Lauer into the combustion chamber and nozzle liner. That was a cool bit of engineering. I hope that answered your questions, and if you have more please feel free to keep them coming.
Edited to add: you are probably right that a bell nozzle would be easier to make, i forgot this was for an aerospike nozzle. Tha difficulty with the bell nozzle would be in sizing the exit. Too much and you overexpand, too small and you underexpand. You can only size the bell nozzle perfectly for one atmospheric exit pressure and throttle condition.
I am in the rocket engine business as well and I have no comment. He did a damn good job for delivering a hybrid for the lowest cost just for the sake of it.
@@mitchelwendland5195 really cool to hear about niche industry experience like this, thanks for sharing!
I love how he gives away 3D printers. He is supporting and inspiring to invent. Hats Off!
To much oxygen, reduce it so that nearly no unburned oxygen reaches the aerospike otherwise even tungsten will burn uo
tru
The nozzle isn't so much melting as oxidizing (aka burning)
Would the issue be slow rate of his oxygen supply? or is it ratio of oxygen to a non-flammable gas? Could this aerospike still work?
@@richardsuckerson49 ratio.
Edit: perfect flame is just enough oxygen to fully burn the fuel. He used more oxygen than the fuel needed so he accually burned the steel away (see wiki Blowtorch, this concept is fully explained)
@@Florious420 ah that explains why on old blowtorches if you didnt give it enough gas you can see the metal burning.
Try making a wrench of that metal fillament , they tighten a blot so we can really see how strong it is in practical applications
aah yes thats how you evolve from cutting trees from trees to tighting a bolt with a wrench which i made from maybe recycled bolt metal
My inner mechanic would enjoy that idea
Curious if layer orientation would matter after sintering like it does with just plain parts..
Or loosen a rusty bolt.
Print the nozel in a way, that the Fuel/Oxidizer first runs through cooling ducts on the nozel and then burns away
(Thats what actual rockets do sometimes)
I think your overestimating the tolerances of 3D printers on small parts
Hasn't he used a design with that before? Or has he just mentioned it a lot...?
Turned out beautiful! Looks pretty time intensive though.
I think it'd be pretty interesting to try printing a tensile test bar with it, and compare it to homogeneous mild steel -- see how much strength you lose with sintering vs e.g. machining. Although I guess for rocket engines yield strength doesn't really matter haha
It totally matters. If your rocket explodes due to pressure, I'd say you have an issue.
@@nikkiofthevalley Thats not what KSP taught us! If it explodes, put moar boosters around it to suppress the explosion!
If you've got an excess of Oxygen going through the nozzle, then it's going to act like an oxy/acetylene torch where the heat plus the O2 burns the steel away, destroying the nozzle in the process.
Yes, this is 100% the issue. You can tell by the flame color and sparks that it is oxidizing. Too much oxygen will destroy pretty much anything. Cooling the nozzle will not help. You want a slightly fuel rich combustion to prevent this from happening.
Or maybe it might be possible to design the engine to have a gap between the flame and the nozzle like most oxyfuel torches work
@@joshuahuman1 that would result in a significantly lower thrust.
How about making the o2 port smaller, that away less o2 coming in the combustion chamber that away it’s a richer mix or how about something that burns a little bit cooler. You won’t necessarily lose thrust this way.
Engine-rich exhaust is the industry term.
If you're already in the business of sintering metal, perhaps you could build a nozzle from layered sheets of metal cut out by a water jet cutter, or laser.
WOW!!! now that is a very interesting concept .
"I know steel is not impermeable to temperature"
You mean impervious. I thought you'd want to know.
Well, it's also not entirely untrue, steel _is_ permeable to temperature (i.e. temperature can make its way through steel). But yeah, "impermeable" means something can't get through, while "impervious" means it's not affected.
Actually, I just had to check since I don't trust my own understanding of the english language, and at least according to Merriam-Webster both are synonymous, at least for the definition of something "not allowing entrance or passage". My second part (and yours) is correct though, when talking about something being unaffected by something else, "impervious" is the right word to use.
@Карасик Ерохин извините, в следующий раз постараюсь быть поинтереснее :P
@@LordHonkInc не беспокойтесь о нем, другие должны просто постараться не быть засранцами :/
As a fellow pedant, I salute you!
@@chemistryofquestionablequa6252 It's not pedantic, questioning people want to know.
I recommend casting. Brass melts at 900C, flow and fill cavities nicely. You can have it for free if you look around.
Of my 293 views from Portugal, how many are you?
420
Why?
sim
59mil 3 horas apos postares o video 😄 e bom ver este canal crescer 😉
Brazilian i am.
Video Idea: with this new knowledge and the possibility of printing metal at home try to create a liquid-powered rocket that runs on O2 and RP4 or CH4. (Create a mini raptor engine or something similar). Would make for a great project and especially would be very interesting, because rocket science at home...
edit: It would be even cooler if you could integrate this into a model rocket
Copenhagen suborbitals basically. Also thats dangerous. and check out charlie garcia.
Making liquid fueled rockets is hard because you need to somehow pump the fuel and oxidizer against the pressure of the reaction chamber. Hybrid N2O/PMMA engines are easier for the amateur because N2O will self-pressurize at room temperature while O2 and CH4 must be pumped as cryogenic liquids.
This seems pretty cool. Agree with Estelon, check out Charlie Garcia he makes some pretty cool rocket launches
compressed CH4 could work. It might be way easier than doing a hybrid style like in the video. I wonder if he could even design cooling channels right into the engine block. Supposedly that is why most major rocket engine manufacturers are switching to some form of 3D printing.
It would be cool to see him put this aerospike motor on a hobby rocket and launch it
this is one of the most amazing thing i have ever seen. The thought pf 3d printing metal at home is just amazing! Thanks man for showing this to us.
This filament is so cool! That open's up a lot of possibilities
Project concept: Try powering the rocket with gunpowder. You might not even need extra oxygen to do that.
Next idea: Try making a Tesla turbine with 3D-printed metal parts.
Another idea: Make a rocket out of household items and see how good it is.
I would love to see Yours interpretation of one of these ideas :)
thanks guys for discussion about my idea :P
Keep in mind that Tomatoes are disgusting!
I'm not sure that last project is responsible, what with enabling people to do dumb stuff and all. Sorry if I'm wrong, tho.
Gunpoder reacts too quickly, it will just explode
@@heyitsgowcow spell check?
I built a flying object from household crap. How is a rocket defined?
Burning fuel propels an object by thrust.
Homemade "Firework" with 6' steel bike gear cable pulled a kite up into the sky.. Rocket power??? Just asking?
You can't get gun powder, ammonium nitrate, and a whole host of other things in the EU so easily, and if you did, if you used it for this purpose it would be illegal. Model rocketry is essentially banned once you go beyond 100m. UK, not part of EU has seems more liberal about it, and also Sweden.
@@ZeroCool-vn9bd wow, here in the us, we have modle rockets that go well above 100 meters, I made one that went 6000 ft up, some people have made model rockets so good that they are essentially real rockets, they make it to the Karman line, those ones need faa approval for a specific location and need to be many miles from any population, faa makes sure it wont be in the path of a plane.
as scott manley would say: "engine rich exhaust"
My buddy and I tried something like this a few tips , put a layer of the “sand” and pack it well with a wood stick as a tamp then place the part into it and pour a few centimeters of sand on and around it then use a sander to vibrate the sand down repeat this until the part is covered then use the sander again then tamp down the sand and place the carbon on top you can tamp it but we never noticed a difference, another tip you could maybe use a thermal paint or something like it to coat the part for better heat performance or possibly a form of plating would work
I've got an idea for a combination heat shield/rocket engine. Fiscripyion below
1) Central combustion chamber/s feeding a ring of nozzles that are oriented at 45° from the forward axis. The nozzles basically point in the opposite direction as normal.
2) The exhaust gases flow over an arched surface towards the perimeter. In profile the arch would only be one half of a full arch.
3) At the perimeter have a series of flaps that extend below the perimeter of the arched arched surface.
4) As the engine functions the gas flow across the surface increases pressure across the surface. The flaps at the outer edge cause gases to build up increasing the pressure at the edge. Think of the engine as being similiar to a blown wing on an aircraft.
In reality the engine could probably be tested with low temperature materials using steam or even water sprayed at high presdure across the surface. The idea isn't to achieve an engine capable of propelling the vehicle in the launch phase. But instead to have an engine that would use the same structure as the re-entry heat shield as it's working surface. This could be used in an orbital vehicle that re-entry tail first and lands vertically.
And while rocket engines work by ejecting a gas at high velocity and pressure that pressure is acting on the engine bell or aerospike surfaces as it expands to produce thrust.
As someone that just appreciates engineering this was PROPER sick
ROIGHT proper sick m8
Hey integza, from my experiments with sintering I got the best results packing the parts in fine Epsom salt and only a thin layer of carbon on top. I'd give that a try
Epsom salt contains nearly half its weight in water, and partially liquefies when heating. That should cause problems...
@@Nuovoswiss I was thinking the same thing. It's a penta-hydrate in store bought bags.
you'd have to bake it first to get the anhydrous form. I can think of a bunch of better salts, regular table salt would be a LOT easier
Integza the jewelry casting process using pla instead of wax is also incredibly easy and best part is that with the right torch you can do steel parts in minutes instead of hours with no shrinkage and no pores.
Yeah this process has less steps, but that would result in a better part fir sure
Metal clay may be fun for you to try. It's similar to this product. But it's one step using water and organic binders . Ruby is aluminum oxide so be careful of contamination. Any suspension always will shrink when the binders are burnt off.
Printing metal filament is something that seemed just too good to be true but apparently isn't anymore.
With this you can maybe revisit the tesla valve pulsejet engine!
True.. but it seams like its limited to metalls with fairly low melting point. I guess incanell is out of the question
@@matsv201 I'm not sure, I personally don't see any reason why if your foundry reaches high enough temperatures that you couldn't use higher melting point metals. Layer thickness seems to be a limiting factor currently. Although I don't think the parts from this 3d printer method are homogenous enough to be used for high strength or high temperature uses. But it fits the niche of home printing for when plastic is too weak. (Although having an oven capable of this is still beyond most)
For industrial aplications this is too slow and labour intensive anyway but printing with lasers and metal powder does work a lot better. Although still way too expensive for home use.
@@matsv201 Nope.. they have inconel, copper, titanium, borosilicate glass and ceramics.... hell, they even have tungsten filament..
@@squidcaps4308 but that sounds like yoy cant sinter them... then you burn up your oven
When I get a YT notification that there’s a new Integza video, I stop what I’m doing and click to watch. Simple.
I was doing my class which I left in middle to watch this video😂😂😂
Possible alternatives - Titanium filament or multiple parts instead of a single solid nozzle. Also from the printing appearance looks like you can trim down your layer heights to make the layers more compact/dense (e.g. go to fine vs rough mode on the 3d printer). I know the steel may not be able to handle the temperatures, but can you test with compressed water or some other non-burning method. The steel one performed very well though, congrats!!
Titanium is a terrible choice. That stuff burns easily, it's why you have to use so much lubricant when cutting it on a mill.
would be interesting to see whether induction heaters can be used
ps. remelting it (salt baking style) as a pre-processing step might help the layer separation; also, copper alloys might be better for rocket nozzles as they might melt, but will not oxidise into obscurity
thats what I want to know, induction heating could bind it within seconds
Need a DIY heat source. That kiln is way more expensive than the 3d printer.
@@hexdude24 indeed, it would be nice if a microwave oven could be used
“Tough as nails” as in steel nails you hammer into wood, not fingernails. Hope this helps.
around me nails break before the wood does!
Nails bend...
Tough as screws is probably more apt.
Wire nails are actually designed to be pretty malleable and ductile. They are designed to mainly hold alignment for shearing forces. This is why home construction uses nails mostly in line with the forces (nails align the wood and bend as needed, but keep the surfaces aligned able to transfer load). Screws on the other hand are hardened, the screw (wedge) is taking a lot of tension, but are more brittle as a consequence of being heat hardened (they break easier under shearing loads). However old cut nails were a bit different, they could hardened or not.
@@LogicalNiko i wonder if work hardening plays a role there, really old nails were forged by hand, can imagine that depending on the type of steel they'd be quite a lot harder than modern wire nails.
@@connorlewis984 but don’t break easily
Bending is better than the material being rigid
Video idea:
Since you seem to love rotating forces, let's exploit the momentum.
Build a gimbal with 2 rotating disks shifted by 90 degrees (X and Z axis stabilization) and use their momentum to cancel the vibration induced by the camera operator.
That's a pretty cool idea - active gyroscopic stabilization (if that's how that works anyways)
@@birbo5603 yay, in theory I can't see a reason why it wouldn't work.
a 3d printed gimbal that can be used for dslr cameras? that would be cool and incredibly useful
@@xandarian55 I know, I'm commenting this from 2 videos ago, not at the top unfortunately :(
14:41 "Please focus"
Me watching this with ADHD: I'm doing my best!!!
haha, I thought it was just me.
Since 3D printing metal is difficult, you might try using lost wax casting. You're already using this to cast ceramics.
Create a ceramic mold which attaches, upside down, to the top of your ceramic cup. Fill the cup with small pieces of metal then attach the mold to the top. Put the whole thing in the kiln. When the metal is molten, take the whole assembly out of the kiln, flip it over so the metal flows into the mold, shake / slosh it to get the molten metal into all corners of the mold, then let it cool. You use your tongs to move it , and the mold is specifically made to cover the entire top of the cup so the molten metal is never visible and never likely to get splashed on you or anything else.
You're pretty clever; I'm betting you can figure out the rest.
I remember reading an article, some years ago, where an artist was actually doing this with an industrial microwave oven, not a kiln, to cast small, decorative metal pieces. His was specifically making his molds to completely cover the cup where he was melting the metal, such that all he had to do was take it out, flip it over, put it on a vibration table to get metal into corners and get bubbles out of the metal, then let it cool.
2030: How I 3D printed a planet to land on with my 3D Printed Rocket.
Idee for another video before 2030 ( =] ): Try to use some liquid or gas for fuel. That way you don't have to clean your chamber every time and you can run your thruster way longer and also don't use the fuel as a structural part to hold the nozzle to stop it from falling off.
That's another hell of an engineering Prosses liquid engines are another mountain of problems. Pressure gas flow valves injectors the system to actuate them and if he is using lox as oxidiser you need a cryogenic version for each. Ther is a reason why most amateur rockets are solid fuel it's just easier you put the fuel in the tube bam rocket.
@@stekra3159 i didn't consider that. maybe a solid engine with granulat is an optan. that way you are also able to input fuel into the system while it's running
@@drohnele3741 if you are going to use liquid or gas propellantyou must do calculations to make it flyable or safe. (except cold gas thrusters)
@@Emre_Kermen isn't it enough to once calculate the ratio and then just set your valves on what you calculated?
2030 is tomorrow.
With capitalism, time does not move.
"evil oxygen"
Oxygen: but I'm the reason you guys are alive
Oxygen is highly addictive and kills people in tens of years
@@PanDiaxik I mean yeah but without oxygen you would die instantly
Sadly Oxygen slowly kills us. Nitrogen is why we live as long as we do.
@@Kevin7557 Now seriously, you are right. Breathing pure oxygen makes organism produce toxins faster than they can be removed which leads to death much faster than breathing air.
It's also the reason we are slowly dying.
see free radicals.
Now that you can 3D print metal reliably, I cant wait to see how many of your older projects you can revamp with better parts. In particular, if you could make metal turbine blades for your water rocket. As an added bonus, the (potential) shrapnel would be even more dangerous!
Here`s something:
1. Get a ultrasonic cleaning bath for your small parts
2. Attach a spring on that rail. Using something like a baggage hand scale measure the force needed to extend the spring. Mark some positions on the rail so we can see whenever you`re testing how much thrust it produces in real time
govorment: work at home
NASA:
Texas:
gubbermint d e n i e d
Shoveldent: work at home
Aerospike engine makers:
No
3D print a Tomato Grenade (a self-destructing tomato). Rules: has the shape and colour of a tomato and explodes by firing the tomato stem.
That would be so awesome
3D print a DC motor core out of the metal filament to improve the efficiency of a homemade electric motor.
Great video, didn't think it was possible to 3d print metal with a run-of-the-mill home 3d printer, but it is, apparently! Some tips:
-You can 3d print the rough shape and then work it with a milling machine and/or lathe to get it to a precise shape
-weigh the shape, then measure it's volume by submerging it in water and note the displacement. Then you can calculate it's density so you can get an idea of how solid it is, which you really want with anything load bearing.
-as a wannabe rocket scientist, I find this a great development. Now if I can only hire a nice volcano somewhere for my mad scientist laboratory..
I think you should try this: make a negative mold of your nozzle in ceramic, then melt a bunch of the steel filament and pour it into your mold. This should reduce shrinkage to a minimum if you overfill the mold a bit, and then you can sinter, and all the metal will sink thanks to gravity, leaving you with a 100% fill part with no defects... Also, aerospikes need to be cooled internally, otherwise they melt, even in real world engines.
You chose my favorite rocket. Long live the Aerospike! Nicely done. I can’t believe how far this FDM tech has come.
Video Idea: Make a Mostly Printed CNC for improving your rocket engine Designs.
yes , awesome idea!
RS CNC 32 has a better design than MP CNC, take a look at it if you choose to go for DIY CNC.
He should talk to Ivan Miranda
i'm not sure a cnc would help at building a rocket...
I know that this is has been mentioned (a lot) but;
Cooling.
You need to cool the nozzle as you have seen with even the "steel". With active cooling you could probably even go back to the ceramic.
Also, you don't need the center spike, it just takes up space and acts as a heating element soaking up heat from the stagnation zone of the exhaust.
You should try to make a model airplane with all your jet engines (maybe as a collab with Ramy RC)
Yes
Nope do it with Peter sripol
You mean with the engines that produces way less thrust than they weigh, even without the large oxygen / fuel tanks that he feeds them from and those that explode almost every time after 3 seconds ? Sound like a good idea :)
Ramu rc
Or maybe project air
Integza, you should try creating your own pulse jet engine using the metal printer or refine your turbo jet engine, or create an rc airplane with petersripol
Tomatoes are tasty
How much does a ticket from portugal to ohio costs?
16:28 i don't think it melt, when you heat steel to a certain temperature and add oxygene it start to burn. this effect is use to cut steel ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting ). i believe that some rocket nozzle are built in stainless steel and at my knowledge the process of cutting stainless steel like that isn't possible or at least isn't used.
We use plasma cutting tools at work to cut steel instead of tourch.
looked pretty molten to me tho with the blobs of liquid metal ;)
if you actually burned the steel you'd have a whole other load of issues.
the "certain temperature" for steel to burn (as with *every* material, since solids and liquids can't actually burn, only rust or smoulder) is *above* its melting point.
also, quoting the page you linked: "Pure oxygen, instead of air, is used to *increase the flame temperature* to allow localized *melting* of the workpiece material (e.g. steel) in a room environment."
Yep you're right you can start cutting steel with an acetylene torch, turn off the acetylene and leave the oxygen on and it'll just keep cutting.
The struts supporting the spike weren't very thick. It wouldn't be hard for the oxygen rich exhaust to erode them in seconds given the operating temperature.
I love that you show your fails as well as victories. For a future video....a rocket propelled arrow that is shot from a bow. Or even just print different sorts of arrows and shoot them from a compound crossbow then evaluate the damage...the sharpness held by the arrow after being shot into wood or a hay bale, and the accuracy of a rocket driven arrow.
Maybe figure a way for the rocket power to engage after the arrow is fired.
Or propell a paraglider if you are feeling super adventurous
It would be really cool if you could build exterior channels into the 3d printed nozzle to run nitrous oxide through. There's some pretty cool research around using supercritical nitrous oxide to cool aerospike nozzles.
Video idea: try doing it again but run a really high flow rate pump and integrate water channels into the design to allow it to last longer, hopefully indefinitely. This could be a first step into building a really high thrust test rocket... or you could use an old air conditioner to make so you could get the nozzle nice and cold so it should last longer before it heats up
He could use the half-mil gap in the part as a water channel for the outer bit, not sure how solid the inner bit is, might could use it as well
Video Idea:
Now that you can 3D print metal, you should make a converging diverging nozzle out of metal, cooled via the blood of your enemy (tomato juice)
Okay had an idea. If your engine is overheating include changes in the parts that overheat to allow cold propellant gassed to flow through them, use the fuel to cool the structcure. early rockets had that system If I recall correctly. Create one central inlet, with small channels running in a coil inside the body of the combustion chamber and nozzle feeding back to the injection ports.
If you injecting fuel and oxidizer through those ports, it cools the shell ad preheats the gasses. as well as allowing you to create a tailored injection pattern for both fuel and oxidizer
Integza: “The best you can do with a commercial 3D printer is get parts out of plastic or resin.”
False. The best you can do with a commercial 3D printer is get parts out of chocolate.
That sounds like chocolate with extra steps
Maybe you could reduce the effect of the warping on the bottom by adding extra material there (think raft) and then grinding it down to spec in post.
If this guy had a simple mini lathe, he could have it as flat as he needed it in no time.
@@nefariousyawn yes this would be the ideal way, but I'm betting he could use blue sharpie and a pair of calipers to mark where to trim it down to and then apply a disc sander in increasing grits he might already own?
So how long until you’re sending terrible tomatoes into outer space in 3D printed rockets?
I fell in love with Tesla at the age of around 12. He and the wright brothers have been my idols. In growing up, I forgot my passions. Your passion for expirementation and Tesla have reignited my inventor passions
I honestly love TH-cam, and how insane it is. Every change is either met with "meh" or unbridled rage. The whole idea of letting anyone, anywhere, upload anything they want? Madness. Pure madness... But yet it flies!
Mostly false.
It used to be like that before Google bought TH-cam.
Now, If you upload anything that critiques anything mainstream, or questions anything at all, your content gets both demonetised and channel removed if you "violate" their vague ToS.
"Upload anything they want."
Lol, that's a joke right?
@@h.cedric8157 if you don't care about google/TH-cam ad money then demonization is irrelevant.
@@TruthIsTheNewHate84 you can, just do it within the rules.
@@spokehedz you don't get my point. How are they champions of "fReE sPeEcH" when they have the means to THROTTLE, and Shadow Ban, videos?
You might be too naïve to believe that Google's TH-cam never will throttle anyone.
'h3te sPeEch' is still free speech, free speech is free speech.
Fools would only say otherwise.
And these fools are easily hurt by mere words and critiques.
Also imho TH-cam should have never been sold to Google.
Unless you worked for Google, and know otherwise.
2:57 nails, as in wood nails, that you can bend like forever before they break. Just making sure everyone knew that
Virtual Foundry makes an Inconel 718 filament, it would stand up to high heat much better than what you're currently using.
What's the sintering temperature for something like that? Also is Inconel as susceptible to burning with added oxygen as steel? It seems keeping the oxygen content under control is pretty important. Ceramics has the advantage it takes a lot to make it melt and even more to get it to burn even with added oxygen (AFAIK). Unfortunately ceramics is also rather fragile and prone to crack.
Kudos on the achievement of obtaining a solid metal part from 3D printing!
Suggestion: Flip it upside down such that the flat part is horizontal to the ground, but on top. This should result in less warp.
If your sintered product is significantly deformed, it's too much heat. If parts aren't sintered, it's too little heat and not enough time.
If you want very high temperature metal combined with near-zero corrosion, try Hastelloy.
Use a stronger more heat-resistant metal to make an aerospike nozzle. Also, put cooling into it like a liquid cooling system. Then make a staged rocket using multiple engines, and see how far you get. That would be a sick vid/series.
That would be fire... hazard.
It is possible that if you do a heat treatment, such as knife makers, after completing the final shape, it will be more durable
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That is called Tempering. Good suggestion!
There is no quenching for bronze
You should be able to make an hourglass rocket engine using sugar and potassium chlorate for fuel. Or zinc and sulfer. The engine itself where the throat that controls the flow isn't very large. Certainly no larger than the aerospike. I am truly impressed by the way. That was an outstanding achievement!
One thing I haven't figured out is why people aren't using casting chambers in which the metal to put in the cast is in a chamber above the mold and connected via a hole in the sand. Then, you could use argon to flush the entire system before heating it up, use electricity to heat the metal which would then flow into the lower part containing the mold. Since everything is being flushed with argon oxidation won't be a big issue, and because your not exposing the metal to the air when it is heated and forged it will not cool as fast and you should get a better cast. In fact, you could easily use electricity to make the metal cast cool as slowly as you wish.
This is just an idea I had while watching your video. You will have my email address as a patreon of your site, please contact me to discuss this.
That was awesome integza. One thing I would suggest is retrying this after sandblasting the nozzle path to make the surface flush in order to avoid any turbulence in the flow.
With that metal filament I think Integza can make a functional turbine, like the ones used in airplanes.
Your next video should be about making supports out of that metal 3d printing filament and test them útil they break to test the proprieties of those metal parts, but the supports have to be designed only by artificial intelligence or also known as topology optimization (solid woks and fusion 360 have that design option available and is really starting to get used in supercars and aerospace industries).
Please leave a like I would love a 3d printer I’m studying electromechanical engineering and live in Argentina.
Thank you ❤️❤️
I want to see him make a turbo jet engine only using ceramic lmao
Just one extra note If you try to make parts using this mixture the mixture will shrink Is by a small amount Be sure to Make your parts Bigger than they're supposed to be If you choose to use this mixture to make heat resistant parts To make parts You want to use very little water Almost to the consistency of Plato
I'm impressed. I truly enjoy the way you experiment with certain materials going way outside the parameters of what their engineered for. And that is how you make progress and now we know. Yeah it's going to fail but it was cool!
not one successful person made it there without first failing. it is a step in the process.
Video idea:
Try making a magnetospike, they use magnets to guide the exhaust which gets rid of the melting problems
magnets fail in high temperatures
@@carpenterbeebuzz5461 you don't have the magnet exposed to said temperatures
Hey! Love your videos! I hope someone remembers this, there were like 10 years ago some phone stickers that were flashing if there was an incoming call, soooo ... video idea: a 3d printed phone case with some nice, light bulb design so when someone gets a call the bulb on the case lights up :D
and also put a rocket on it
u need to weld a sheet metal flange to mount the nozzle to and then just print cylindrical fuel rod to avoid the melting and falling off problem. Very impressive series btw.
I feel like we have all been waiting for this moment for so long. Excellent work!
Looks great!
I think you could Also check of the part is solid by determining the density and them comparing it to the metal you made it of. Requires less holes ;-)
Now that you can make custom metal parts, you should make Tesla’s earthquake machine but with metal!
This is a great process. Slight pressured casting in a jack in the box/tomato press could perfect that mold for heavy use.
"He should put some rockets on it"
No, don't give him ideas because he'd actually do it
Next you should make a Ramjet engine. (If you can) That would be so cool to see 3D printed!
Video idea:
Build a drone to film some sick shots of your diy rockets🚀
I'm a welder by trade and a 3D printing hobbyist. This video has it all.
0:27 Holy crap, I was having flashbacks from the early 2000's! Dude sounded just like Strongbad! =D (damn, i'm getting old...)
I'm glad I read the comments cause I never spotted that thank you so much
I always assumed "Tough as Nails" was marketing hype from when nail manufactures were trying to get people to stop joining everything with joinery and pins and use their metal nails instead.
how long have nails been around? i'm imagining a victorian era version of mad men now... 🤔
Video Idea:
you could try casting metal parts using 3D printed wax parts.
People do this with PLA filament. RotarySMP recently demonstrated this, as well as many other channels I'm sure. I think he has all of the equipment that he would need.
When packing the sand, use vibration to settle it into crevices better for a more thorough bake.
How about printing a nozzle in abs and do a "lost wax casting" to get a perfect steel nozzle ?
seems like a ton of work for something that can be bought for cheap bc its shape is easily cut on a lathe
Steel is VERY hard to cast it needs to be much hotter, so it burns more in air and also shrinks a lot more, which makes the molds much harder (sometimes practically impossible) to design, and also molten steel is thicker, so much less able to fill in fine details
@@Wise_That and cast iron?
@@alfredorotondo nearly impossible to get complex shapes out of cast iron & yea, it too has to be VERY hot in order to properly pour for a cast. Not to mention it's extremely brittle
Dude Joel he literally explains why not at the start of the video. Because he wanted to do it with steel and steel is hard to do in that method with what he has but also he just wanted to 3D print it
Future video idea: 3D printed circuit components. Could you 3D print a capacitor?
Only fun if it explodes
Way to go, love it! And I love that you always push your creations to failure! I love it and live what you do!
You need to feed the oxygen through a tube wrapped around the outside of the nozzle and then run the tube back to the top and feed in the oxygen to the rocket as you would normally. As the high pressure oxygen runs through the tube it will make the tube very cold. It will cool the outside of the nozzle as the rocket burns.
You could try making an HHO generator and blowtorch, I hear they can burn, cut and or melt almost anything!!!
um that would end up to be an explosion lol
Well, I guess you can heat-treat you metal 3D printed parts. You have all the tools you need for that.
Also, to fill in the tiny bubbles inside the print, you can use electrolysis to deposit some metal on the surface and then re-melt it to fuse it all together.
he has got a mig welder too...
A "remelt" without , say... a graphite or some type of mold that can handle extreme heat. Idk? Maybe a simple homemade mold will work...but there is the chance it could make it worse. Probably worth trying if you have the materials....!
You should try making a miniature piston engine out 3D-printed metal parts!
I'm old school. I would have 3D printed the model, then made a silicon mold of it, with Aluminium powder to keep it rigid. Then I would have made a cast of the piece in plaster, created a mold in epoxy resin with 'green sand' & poured in molten Aluminium. Of course you could short cut the process by creating a 3D printed mold, rather than the piece itself.
Now that is what I'd like to see Integza do, make a 3D printed mold, so I can skip the silicon mold step.
I would also like to see Integza make a 3D print from either a LIDAR scan or Photogrammetry scan with a tutorial on which software to use. He can use a family member as the scanned object.
Obrigado Integzinho.
PeterSirpol: i made a plane
Tom Stanton: i build an electric bike
Integza: i made power...i need more
ididathing : i built spoon
@@naponnamchawat3536 with a spoon
Integza, your rocket nozzle can save only one material: Tungsten
Video Idea: Make A Rocket That carries tomatoes ~300 ft in the air and then explodes.
Just build a nuke...
I was reluctant to buy into the whole 'printing metal at home with a normal printer' thing until you hammered that nozzle into the wood. That right there sold me.