@@richardlighthouse5328 Probably a combination of both. I imagine when he tears the generator apart he'll find it doesn't have the right winding or enough windings to work properly, and probably the control board is just e-waste. But I also hope he makes a follow-up video on that product because it seems like there should be a way to get it working.
@@greatscottlab Yes please, maybe it just needs better magnets and coils? I'd love to see it made useful instead of it being a garbage product, since the quality looks so good might as well make it good :)
Maybe re-purpose the Schumann coil as a coffee mug warmer. Just have to put a current limited supply through it... being careful not to let it get too hot and de-laminate.
Add a small temperature probe (either diode or resistive) I wonder if a random op amp (tl071/72) wired as a dead bug with a 1n4148 as the temperature sensor and a zener as the cv source would be enough to get a good temperature shutoff.
@@cbs1710 diodes and bjt transistors, which are similar, PNP or NPN for a transistor vs PN for a diode, lose around 2mv per C at constant current and so if you have a constant voltage and a resistor, it basically behaves as a cc source, you can use an operational amplifier as a schmitt trigger (basically it turns on at a higher temperature that it turns off at, so it doesn't switch between on/off all the time) and add a potentiometer to the output of the diode/transistor to adjust the temperature. with a bit of calculation (or experimentation) you can make the max temperature between something like ambient +10C and ambient +40C (because the rest of the circuit isn't temperature regulated it'll change depending on the ambient temperature, though it's a bit more complicated than that, but you have a warm to hot knob, which is good enough.) the zener diode is there as a voltage reference, so it doesn't change too much depending on the power supply. though tbh, it'd probably be easier to get a 40, 50 or 60C NC temperature switch and fix it to the bottom with some thermal interface material (TIM), then use a constant current source (basically an op amp with a resistor and a transistor) to feed the coil as a heating element and avoid overloading the power supply. but since we need an op amp to feed it, we could use a chip with multiple to do the temperature regulation cheaper and with some control, but for a one of project the 60 cent difference isn't worth it, unless you're doing it for fun or education. you could have a selector switch and switch between the 3 temperature switches if you want warm to hot.
A tip re battery spot welding: When there is a gap in the metal strip touching the cell as seen around 8:45, you should weld across the gap. The gap makes the path of least resistance pass through the battery cap instead of through the strip, this results in more energy being used to make the required weld and less being lost to heating the strip. Great content. Keep up the good work.
7:42 to melt the enamel on magnet wire you always want to start at the tip, passing the tip of the wire through a very hot blob of solder on the tip of your iron. You start at the tip because there will always be some exposed metal there from when you cut it, and thus the heat will get in through that end and the solder can "lift" the enamel up as it burns/melts.
I got one of those USB C cables with the power meter in the connector after seeing on your channel. I was super skeptical after seeing the $4 price free shipping, but I've been using it every day now and it's really good! The connectors are even anodized aluminium and the power reading is pretty accurate. Great recommendation!
Great format, highly compatible with YT. I would love to see more, even with some more quirky and maybe obviously bad stuff. BigClive & Co are quite successful with it and you also have your own humor and approach to testing. 🤗
These series are amazing, and I would love to see more! I know its most definitely expensive to collect, order, ship and all that stuff, but maybe a bit more often would be nice to see. Keep it up!
@greatscottlab did you check if the MPPT controller wasn't broken? The wind turbine itself looks fine and may be worth it. I just suspect that they had to cheap out somewhere and that could have been the mppt controller. Also the spot welder looks really hackable. Maybe a microcontroller and some LCD display can be added to make it a bit more user friendly. Love the series, please continue doing them!
The spot welder is impressive for how cheap it is. I may get one for Christmas lol I'm glad to see someone who knows how these products work inside are doing the review/testing. Also looking forward to see what you do with the useful parts of the useless products. Your videos seem to write themselves.
Looked very interesting. One question however. The two welding ends have a long section of what looks like exposed copper. The part you hold on to! Why is it not shocking you every time you use it? It looks like it was intentionally made this way.
@@jarls5890 I would assume this is because of a low voltage but a high current. Also because the current is flowing through the metal strip, it will have no need to flow through the skin, as the metal strip is the path of least resistance. Plus, the internal circuit seems to look for a short across the probes before supplying any current, a short circuit the resistance of skin cannot provide. In any case this is nothing a little shrink wrap couldn't fix. :)
I like this video idea, very nice to watch and a lot of information packed into it. I also imagine it must be fun getting to play with all these devices. Great execution also
'Melt the varnish' is somewhat difficult to do. You'll probably get better results if you get a small file, or tiny bit of fine sandpaper on a stick or skewer. Then just break through the varnish with that before soldering. I've done quite a bit of similar soldering, but I bought a large spool of wire with a nylon coating, so melt through is much easier. Even with that I still prefer scratching through with a file or sandpaper.
I've been looking at the fly wire pens for a while!! So awesome to see this pop up in your video Same goes for other products in the video. A suggestion I have is the 909d 3 in 1 station. Hot air, iron, and bench power supply for under $100 plus tons of tools
I've checked the 909d, it's pretty good, although still a prefer a more expensive route which is a hot air + soldering station and a power supply separately. The 909d power supply can only output 2A which may or may not be too small for your projects and it doesn't have limit control on the current side. The display for the current is also analog which may make reading a little bit hard and inaccurate
I haven't tried the 909D, but I do have an 898D which is very similar and has a soldering iron and hot air station. The hot air station does the job fine. The soldering iron, on the other hand, is not so great - on mine, the element didn't even make direct contact with the tip so it'd take forever to heat up. I later switched to a TS100, which is much better.
@@siontheodorus1501 Yeah. I think the 909d is intended more for phone repair. The analog current meter can be useful because of the update speed, allowing you to monitor boot current of phones (also providing to the idea it is more aimed towards phone repair)
8:20 I build a spot welder/resistance welder using a microwave oven transformer and a dimmer circuit from a vacuumcleaner to be able to tone down the device which is unchecked capable of pumping out over 1000 Amps of current (at 1,7Volts)
Love this series! Hopefully the community engagement is enough to keep it funded! I especially like the spot welder- I have two similar cheap ones (The ones with red PCB, you've likely seen them), but they were both $10-15 more and lacked internal batteries. The kWeld is awesome but it's hard to justify the $200+ pricetag when a hobbyist can get nearly the same, for a tenth the cost.
Great Video, as always! Tipp: beim punktschweißen am besten links und rechts vom schlitz ansetzen, dann bekommst du einen besseren schweißpunkt :) Wenn kein schlitz dazwischen ist, fließt der Großteil des Stroms durch den nickelstreifen und sorgt dabei nicht für eine Verbindung zwischen nickel und Batterie :)
Hello and thank you for all your quality and very informative videos. I was surprised to see how you place the electrodes for spot welding batteries. Indeed, it seems to me that when you have the chance to have slit tabs, you should take the opportunity to place the electrodes on each side of the slot. This promotes the passage of current through the tabs and also through the battery. This way, there is less current going directly from one electrode to another and the solder should be better.
the spot welders are actually pretty good. Takes a little practice knowing proper pressure and settings, but you can get clean, strong welds and the device is not fussy at all.
The portable spot welder is a dream product for me. I will definitely get one soon to make a DIY battery pack for my electric scooter. I didn't wanted to pay so much for a more professional one and this one is quite perfect for this job.
id like to see how that little spot welder holds up over time and something seems off with that wind turbine like a bad solder connection or similar with its internals. id like to see a deeper dive into those 2 items
* Phone rings * ->Hello? Joker: Hi, is this texas instruments? Ti->yes, how can I help you? Joker: Oh I would like a diode Ti-> what kind of dio- Joker-> An IDEAL diode! Ti-> ... Joker-> * Dies of evil laugh *
I find using a large amount of flux helps me melt the varnish around enameled copper wire. I don't know whether it's a chemical reaction, faster heat transfer through the flux itself, the solder wetting the wire sooner, which facilitates a greater rate of heat transfer, something else, or a combination of all of the above.
What voltage is that battery inside of the spot welder at? How long did it hold up? I guess it’s quite hard on the battery being shorted out with each weld
The pen is for wire wrapping round component legs with non copper perf board. You wrap the wire round the legs and then solder it, the varnish menas you can criss cross wires. We used to sell them at Maplins, Veropens i think they were called.
@8:43 You are doing it wrong. The purpose of the gap in the nickel is to force the current to go through the cell's cap - which means you're SUPPOSED to put the contacts either side of the gap, not, as you're doing, always on the same side.
The Schumann coil is used by musicians. Some claim it balances the energies in buildings but our brains are attuned to the frequency and it's the 'sound of silence' which we experience in nature.
I have always used a vero-wire varnished wire dispenser pen for prototyping. Saves hours. You do need a hot iron to melt the varnish and constant ventilation because of fumes.
Ip2368 requires you to set the input number of cells in series and their input voltage range before connecting it to a battery. The default is usually 4s and the 18v battery is 5s. You should have set it to 5s by modifying the resistors on the board. That's probably why it died. They also do not like being plugged in without having a battery connected. Also, some of them need "activation" before being able to discharge. You can activate them by connecting them to any pd source with which they can negotiate type-c to type-c.
Hey, do you think that the Schumann waves PCB can be used as a heater instead? I'd like to try to build one smd hotplate, it looks like it may work. What do you think?
8:50 You supposed to spotweld across the slit in the nickel strip, not along it So the current must go thru both spotweld points doing usefull work, instead of going directly thru the strip itself getting wasted
Neat stuff; I've been using a lot of enameled wire lately in radio projects, and that dispenser looks maybe useful. But then, now that I know it exists, I can just 3d-print one...
🚦🕜6:40 To solder enameled wire you must raise the iron temperature to 400°c and it works like a charm.🔥 This is the reason why I hate the (+)(-) t° buttons on my digital solder station. 🔥
I could be wrong with this but I think the gaps in the nickel strips located on the battery terminals are used that you place the spot welder probes on different side of the gap and thus lead the current to go through the battery and not the nickel strip. As I said I am not sure but, but in all of your footage you placed your probes on one of the sides.
Nice video. My favorite channel. A word about spot welding. The slot came with the connecting tabs placed on battery casing were intended to promote better weld result from increases impedance between the two weld junctions. This impedance will be lower if probes were placed on the same side of the slot, for compromised result and lower battery longevity.
I'm never disappointed when I see one of your videos pop up on my feed because I know it will either inspire or inform me or both. Unlike some other lowbrow click-mill youtubers. Kudos 👏 and danke Schoen!
It's said that you should buy a higher generating voltage wind turbine than you're going to use it for as you're likely to get actual power to charge with at lower speeds, in other words, actually work. Not sure if there are MPPT wind controllers available but you could always put a zener on the gen output and if the solar MPPT rejects power the gen voltage will come up and go through the zener to a dump load to prevent no load overspeeding of the turbine.
10:14 DONT DO THAT! The BMS for most power tools do not switch off the load, but tells the load to stop. You can easily damage the cells by discharging them too much. Luckily your bidirectional charger exploded, THAT BATTERY OUTPUT IS NOT PROTECTED AGAINST OVERCHARGING.
I've had this spotwelder for a long while and it works great, they released a version 2 a while ago and it features much better build quality of teh housing and leads
Great Scott! What a fantastic video. In the USA, my old school electronics magazine went out of business years ago. I will need to check out this publication you mention.
This video is very informative and also very fair to aliexpress products. (what it is, what it does, and what it costs.) I see a lot of people bashing on ali for "cheap chinese" stuff, but if you are buying something much cheaper than the "proper" price you should expect that it comes with "catches". Also there are good quality stuff on aliexpress, just not as dirt cheap.
there are powerbanks with the additional cables for giving a jump start for your car battery. they seem quite interesting and very handy to have them lying around in your car for multiple purpose!
It might be a fun video idea to take apart the electronics of the wind generator kit and figure out why it doesn't work as advertised, and what it would take to make it work correctly.
I have a similar, if not slightly smaller spot welder. Absolutely love it. Variable power output, good battery, good welds, all I could ask for for hobby electronics really
Just a quick question about the 100W Charger (from UGREEN) you used at 10:55. I have that same charger and can olny manage to get 80-90 W out of a single USB-C outlet. Did you test yours and does it provide the full 5 A at 20 V in your case?
Would love to see you modifying that wind generator to get it to work.
I will certainly have a look at it again in the future.
Probably impossible without putting a different motor/generator in
@@testboga5991 I think the controller is shitty/broken instead of motor not producing useful power.
@@richardlighthouse5328 Probably a combination of both. I imagine when he tears the generator apart he'll find it doesn't have the right winding or enough windings to work properly, and probably the control board is just e-waste. But I also hope he makes a follow-up video on that product because it seems like there should be a way to get it working.
@@richardlighthouse5328 That's what I was thinking - the generator shouldn't freespin that fast if it was under any sort of load.
i am actually very interested in the windmill, maybe a follow up video where you see what is wrong with it or try to improve it?
Will try to do so soon when it gets warmer outside
@@greatscottlab Yes please, maybe it just needs better magnets and coils? I'd love to see it made useful instead of it being a garbage product, since the quality looks so good might as well make it good :)
+1
@@joeledwards6587 maybe the one he got was faulty
Perhaps test it on top of a car at different driving / wind speeds?
Hope this turns into a regular seires! Im loving it so far
I am having fun with it as well and viewers seems to like it too. So I guess from time to time I will make such videos ;-)
Everyone feels the same. I think a passive element of surprise make this series fun to watch
Yeah make more
yes these videos are valued and entertaining
My wallet doesn't, videos like this motivate me to start exploring AliExpress just to buy something that i don't need
Maybe re-purpose the Schumann coil as a coffee mug warmer. Just have to put a current limited supply through it... being careful not to let it get too hot and de-laminate.
Not a bad idea :-)
At first that exactly what I thought it was.
Add a small temperature probe (either diode or resistive)
I wonder if a random op amp (tl071/72) wired as a dead bug with a 1n4148 as the temperature sensor and a zener as the cv source would be enough to get a good temperature shutoff.
@@satibel This contraption sounds interesting. Could you perchance elaborate on how it is supposed to function?
@@cbs1710 diodes and bjt transistors, which are similar, PNP or NPN for a transistor vs PN for a diode, lose around 2mv per C at constant current and so if you have a constant voltage and a resistor, it basically behaves as a cc source, you can use an operational amplifier as a schmitt trigger (basically it turns on at a higher temperature that it turns off at, so it doesn't switch between on/off all the time) and add a potentiometer to the output of the diode/transistor to adjust the temperature.
with a bit of calculation (or experimentation) you can make the max temperature between something like ambient +10C and ambient +40C (because the rest of the circuit isn't temperature regulated it'll change depending on the ambient temperature, though it's a bit more complicated than that, but you have a warm to hot knob, which is good enough.)
the zener diode is there as a voltage reference, so it doesn't change too much depending on the power supply.
though tbh, it'd probably be easier to get a 40, 50 or 60C NC temperature switch and fix it to the bottom with some thermal interface material (TIM), then use a constant current source (basically an op amp with a resistor and a transistor) to feed the coil as a heating element and avoid overloading the power supply.
but since we need an op amp to feed it, we could use a chip with multiple to do the temperature regulation cheaper and with some control, but for a one of project the 60 cent difference isn't worth it, unless you're doing it for fun or education. you could have a selector switch and switch between the 3 temperature switches if you want warm to hot.
A tip re battery spot welding: When there is a gap in the metal strip touching the cell as seen around 8:45, you should weld across the gap.
The gap makes the path of least resistance pass through the battery cap instead of through the strip, this results in more energy being used to make the required weld and less being lost to heating the strip.
Great content. Keep up the good work.
I just have the same thought when watching that scene too. Thanks.
7:42 to melt the enamel on magnet wire you always want to start at the tip, passing the tip of the wire through a very hot blob of solder on the tip of your iron. You start at the tip because there will always be some exposed metal there from when you cut it, and thus the heat will get in through that end and the solder can "lift" the enamel up as it burns/melts.
I got one of those USB C cables with the power meter in the connector after seeing on your channel. I was super skeptical after seeing the $4 price free shipping, but I've been using it every day now and it's really good! The connectors are even anodized aluminium and the power reading is pretty accurate. Great recommendation!
I got a similar one from Amazon and I love it
can you make this a regular series this was fun to watch!
I hope to do so :-) Last part performed super well. And if this one does too then I will keep going for a while :-)
@@greatscottlab yay!
Great format, highly compatible with YT. I would love to see more, even with some more quirky and maybe obviously bad stuff. BigClive & Co are quite successful with it and you also have your own humor and approach to testing. 🤗
Great idea for a series! I think many of us have been the victim of misleading advertising on AliExpess - but also had some gems!
These series are amazing, and I would love to see more! I know its most definitely expensive to collect, order, ship and all that stuff, but maybe a bit more often would be nice to see. Keep it up!
@greatscottlab did you check if the MPPT controller wasn't broken? The wind turbine itself looks fine and may be worth it. I just suspect that they had to cheap out somewhere and that could have been the mppt controller. Also the spot welder looks really hackable. Maybe a microcontroller and some LCD display can be added to make it a bit more user friendly. Love the series, please continue doing them!
I might check it out in a future video
Looking at the rotor diameter you would need close to a hurricane to get 1KW from it.
The spot welder is impressive for how cheap it is. I may get one for Christmas lol I'm glad to see someone who knows how these products work inside are doing the review/testing. Also looking forward to see what you do with the useful parts of the useless products. Your videos seem to write themselves.
Looked very interesting. One question however. The two welding ends have a long section of what looks like exposed copper. The part you hold on to! Why is it not shocking you every time you use it?
It looks like it was intentionally made this way.
@@jarls5890 I would assume this is because of a low voltage but a high current. Also because the current is flowing through the metal strip, it will have no need to flow through the skin, as the metal strip is the path of least resistance. Plus, the internal circuit seems to look for a short across the probes before supplying any current, a short circuit the resistance of skin cannot provide. In any case this is nothing a little shrink wrap couldn't fix. :)
@@jarls5890 It's powered by a 1S lithium battery which is only 4.2V max - not nearly enough to feel.
Did you get one for Christmas and test it?
@@TheFreak111 unfortunately I did not. Funds were a little tight last year.
This series is so great for hobbiests because AliExpress is the first place to go for cheap electronics
Glad you like it :-)
I like this video idea, very nice to watch and a lot of information packed into it.
I also imagine it must be fun getting to play with all these devices.
Great execution also
Thanks. It really is fun :-)
Thanks for testing the battery welder. I was looking at it a couple of weeks ago and was like "maybe... maybe not". But it seems to be ok.
Yep. Better than I expected. Would recommend.
According to someone else, it may have self discharge issues, so you may want to add a high current switch between the battery and the board
Please Continue this Series! I really like it! 👍
Will try to do so :-)
'Melt the varnish' is somewhat difficult to do. You'll probably get better results if you get a small file, or tiny bit of fine sandpaper on a stick or skewer. Then just break through the varnish with that before soldering.
I've done quite a bit of similar soldering, but I bought a large spool of wire with a nylon coating, so melt through is much easier. Even with that I still prefer scratching through with a file or sandpaper.
I've been looking at the fly wire pens for a while!! So awesome to see this pop up in your video
Same goes for other products in the video. A suggestion I have is the 909d 3 in 1 station. Hot air, iron, and bench power supply for under $100 plus tons of tools
Several on thingiverse, if you have a printer to print them. Search for “wiring pen”
I've checked the 909d, it's pretty good, although still a prefer a more expensive route which is a hot air + soldering station and a power supply separately. The 909d power supply can only output 2A which may or may not be too small for your projects and it doesn't have limit control on the current side. The display for the current is also analog which may make reading a little bit hard and inaccurate
I haven't tried the 909D, but I do have an 898D which is very similar and has a soldering iron and hot air station. The hot air station does the job fine. The soldering iron, on the other hand, is not so great - on mine, the element didn't even make direct contact with the tip so it'd take forever to heat up. I later switched to a TS100, which is much better.
Love to know how they got a patent on the side as I bought a plastic version of the wire pen 45 years ago to wire up TTL circuits !
@@siontheodorus1501 Yeah. I think the 909d is intended more for phone repair. The analog current meter can be useful because of the update speed, allowing you to monitor boot current of phones (also providing to the idea it is more aimed towards phone repair)
8:20 I build a spot welder/resistance welder using a microwave oven transformer and a dimmer circuit from a vacuumcleaner to be able to tone down the device which is unchecked capable of pumping out over 1000 Amps of current (at 1,7Volts)
Please Scott, Make that windmill work properly, and outputting the most energy possible! You can do it!
Awesome video as always.
Love this series! Hopefully the community engagement is enough to keep it funded!
I especially like the spot welder- I have two similar cheap ones (The ones with red PCB, you've likely seen them), but they were both $10-15 more and lacked internal batteries. The kWeld is awesome but it's hard to justify the $200+ pricetag when a hobbyist can get nearly the same, for a tenth the cost.
Great Video, as always!
Tipp: beim punktschweißen am besten links und rechts vom schlitz ansetzen, dann bekommst du einen besseren schweißpunkt :)
Wenn kein schlitz dazwischen ist, fließt der Großteil des Stroms durch den nickelstreifen und sorgt dabei nicht für eine Verbindung zwischen nickel und Batterie :)
Quality contents here dude, make it a regular series because there are a lot of undiscovered gems on Aliexpress
Wow, I was expecting garbage like toddler coloring books or knockoff usb drives.
But this guy is killing it with DiY components! Bravo!
That mini spotwelder seems really good for the price. Definitely was expecting some shoddy piece of equipment.
That flying wire thing looks very useful but I agree you have to be pretty aggressive/ use heat to get the enamel off
Hello and thank you for all your quality and very informative videos. I was surprised to see how you place the electrodes for spot welding batteries. Indeed, it seems to me that when you have the chance to have slit tabs, you should take the opportunity to place the electrodes on each side of the slot. This promotes the passage of current through the tabs and also through the battery. This way, there is less current going directly from one electrode to another and the solder should be better.
the spot welders are actually pretty good. Takes a little practice knowing proper pressure and settings, but you can get clean, strong welds and the device is not fussy at all.
The portable spot welder is a dream product for me. I will definitely get one soon to make a DIY battery pack for my electric scooter. I didn't wanted to pay so much for a more professional one and this one is quite perfect for this job.
Did you buy it and are you satisfied? I found other video of it being not so good and now I don't know.
@@TheFreak111 Yes, and it does the job. But I don't have any other spot welders to make a fair comparison.
@@L3X369 well as long as it does the job it's ok I guess ;)
Can the spiral pcb be used for heating?
Great series - please make more of that kind!
Nice to see other people buying random stuff from AliExpress. Shame the wind power didn't work
That coil at the start, would that work as a SMD hotbed? I know some people use PCBs with some stuff on it as a hot bed for SMD soldering.
5:46 funn fact about that charge controller.
Most of them are straight up filled with dirt / soil so they are heavier
id like to see how that little spot welder holds up over time and something seems off with that wind turbine like a bad solder connection or similar with its internals. id like to see a deeper dive into those 2 items
8:21 - "...and according to the charging current, that should TAKE A WHILE." 🤣I literally LOL'ed when you said this.
* Phone rings *
->Hello?
Joker: Hi, is this texas instruments?
Ti->yes, how can I help you?
Joker: Oh I would like a diode
Ti-> what kind of dio-
Joker-> An IDEAL diode!
Ti-> ...
Joker-> * Dies of evil laugh *
How efficient is the ideal diode? I mean how much current does it use while idle and while under load or while switching?
I find using a large amount of flux helps me melt the varnish around enameled copper wire. I don't know whether it's a chemical reaction, faster heat transfer through the flux itself, the solder wetting the wire sooner, which facilitates a greater rate of heat transfer, something else, or a combination of all of the above.
One thing I could recommend for this series is the MPH30 mini Hotplate for repairs and SMD soldering
I wholeheartedly approve of this series of videos. Also, that "flying pen" looks quite handy! I'll have to get me one.
Hopefully it will help you :-)
Yes i think that wind turbine is a good product but due some failure or wiring issue it's not generating the expected power
What voltage is that battery inside of the spot welder at? How long did it hold up? I guess it’s quite hard on the battery being shorted out with each weld
"no healing effect for me" is an extraordinarily generous review 😁
The pen is for wire wrapping round component legs with non copper perf board. You wrap the wire round the legs and then solder it, the varnish menas you can criss cross wires. We used to sell them at Maplins, Veropens i think they were called.
very cool vid. I'm glad to finely see someone test those cheek wind mills that I can trust thanks man!
Glad to help
2:55 Did you try to use it as a cup heater?
@8:43 You are doing it wrong. The purpose of the gap in the nickel is to force the current to go through the cell's cap - which means you're SUPPOSED to put the contacts either side of the gap, not, as you're doing, always on the same side.
The Schumann coil is used by musicians. Some claim it balances the energies in buildings but our brains are attuned to the frequency and it's the 'sound of silence' which we experience in nature.
6:43 You only need tinnable enameled wire which you can bye in every electronic store around the world and tweezers for this job
I have always used a vero-wire varnished wire dispenser pen for prototyping. Saves hours.
You do need a hot iron to melt the varnish and constant ventilation because of fumes.
Ip2368 requires you to set the input number of cells in series and their input voltage range before connecting it to a battery. The default is usually 4s and the 18v battery is 5s. You should have set it to 5s by modifying the resistors on the board. That's probably why it died. They also do not like being plugged in without having a battery connected. Also, some of them need "activation" before being able to discharge. You can activate them by connecting them to any pd source with which they can negotiate type-c to type-c.
Hey, do you think that the Schumann waves PCB can be used as a heater instead? I'd like to try to build one smd hotplate, it looks like it may work. What do you think?
Please do more of these kinds of reviews. This was super useful.
What's that usb-c cable that displays the watts on it called?
what kind of USB-C charge cable is that your using in the last video that gives a read out of the cables current power?
8:50 You supposed to spotweld across the slit in the nickel strip, not along it
So the current must go thru both spotweld points doing usefull work, instead of going directly thru the strip itself getting wasted
The fingerprint scanner you showed at the end actually worked great for me, looking forward to whatever you use it for!
Neat stuff; I've been using a lot of enameled wire lately in radio projects, and that dispenser looks maybe useful.
But then, now that I know it exists, I can just 3d-print one...
I like the way you analysing the product bro 👌👍
Thank you 🙌
Hi Scott this new series is very interesting and really helpful, I hope you will keep exploring useful items at aliexpress.
🚦🕜6:40 To solder enameled wire you must raise the iron temperature to 400°c and it works like a charm.🔥
This is the reason why I hate the (+)(-) t° buttons on my digital solder station. 🔥
I could be wrong with this but I think the gaps in the nickel strips located on the battery terminals are used that you place the spot welder probes on different side of the gap and thus lead the current to go through the battery and not the nickel strip. As I said I am not sure but, but in all of your footage you placed your probes on one of the sides.
Hmmmm I think both way should do the job
Nice video. My favorite channel.
A word about spot welding.
The slot came with the connecting tabs placed on battery casing were intended to promote better weld result from increases impedance between the two weld junctions. This impedance will be lower if probes were placed on the same side of the slot, for compromised result and lower battery longevity.
I really enjoyed this kind of aliexpress products review. Please do more like that!!
View counts will increase. Keep working. I got notification today after long time.
Always i use to search and watch your latest videos😌
I'm never disappointed when I see one of your videos pop up on my feed because I know it will either inspire or inform me or both. Unlike some other lowbrow click-mill youtubers. Kudos 👏 and danke Schoen!
It's said that you should buy a higher generating voltage wind turbine than you're going to use it for as you're likely to get actual power to charge with at lower speeds, in other words, actually work.
Not sure if there are MPPT wind controllers available but you could always put a zener on the gen output and if the solar MPPT rejects power the gen voltage will come up and go through the zener to a dump load to prevent no load overspeeding of the turbine.
10:14 DONT DO THAT!
The BMS for most power tools do not switch off the load, but tells the load to stop. You can easily damage the cells by discharging them too much.
Luckily your bidirectional charger exploded, THAT BATTERY OUTPUT IS NOT PROTECTED AGAINST OVERCHARGING.
I've had this spotwelder for a long while and it works great, they released a version 2 a while ago and it features much better build quality of teh housing and leads
Thanks for the feedback. Good to know :-)
How do u know if the listing is the 2nd version
Shorts of individual product like this would be really cool
Pretty interesting stuff indeed, dude! 😃
The spot welder seems great indeed!
Anyway, stay safe and creative there! 🖖😊
This series sounds amazing! I think we have all found ourself browsing AliExpress. Thanks for making the video.
11:02 "Which I sadly didn't capture on camera"
Time to take some lessons from electro-boom.
Great information. I especially liked the spot welder. Nice.
Do you know where to get Milwaukie plastic cases?
These series are amazing, and I would love to see more
Great Scott! What a fantastic video. In the USA, my old school electronics magazine went out of business years ago. I will need to check out this publication you mention.
Danke!
Thanks for the support :-)
The information on the back of the first item is literally a copy-paste of the Wikipedia entry on Schumann resonances lol
This video is very informative and also very fair to aliexpress products. (what it is, what it does, and what it costs.)
I see a lot of people bashing on ali for "cheap chinese" stuff, but if you are buying something much cheaper than the "proper" price you should expect that it comes with "catches". Also there are good quality stuff on aliexpress, just not as dirt cheap.
How does the ideal diode work? All PN junctions have a threshold voltage.
I was 100% confident you were going to say "check it out or chuck it out" I like a good curve ball.
Ooo, I think I recognized one of the devices teased at the end, but I just can't quite "put my finger on it"!
Thanks for the great video as always!
there are powerbanks with the additional cables for giving a jump start for your car battery. they seem quite interesting and very handy to have them lying around in your car for multiple purpose!
It might be a fun video idea to take apart the electronics of the wind generator kit and figure out why it doesn't work as advertised, and what it would take to make it work correctly.
This is a great concept. Describing Ali express electronics. They should’ve giving you kickbacks.
Now i will say i have learned something today. If i had a cracked version of idm i would download your whole playlist
Thanks....I guess :-)
Open source software exist...Learn how to use yt-dlp, you'll never need another TH-cam downloader
Where did you get that USB-C cable with the built in Watt meter, that's awesome!
I have a similar, if not slightly smaller spot welder. Absolutely love it. Variable power output, good battery, good welds, all I could ask for for hobby electronics really
That spot welder is mind-blowingly cheap for its size, functionality and build quality.
what is that device 8:25? which is measuring the charging power
love to see a video on you figuring out how to fix the IP2368 MINI and have it tested like the Two previous powerbanks.
11:33 Fingerprint reader? Exciting!
How does the Ideal diode work? I wonder if they would be good as bypass diodes for solar cell configurations.
Lol for the intro you should say “check them out, or chuck them out” and call the series Check Out or Chuck Out lmfaoooooo
Just a quick question about the 100W Charger (from UGREEN) you used at 10:55. I have that same charger and can olny manage to get 80-90 W out of a single USB-C outlet. Did you test yours and does it provide the full 5 A at 20 V in your case?
How did you make the 100W powerbank ?
Surely you can use the parts from the wind generator to create your own working wind generator?