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Before you drop in the CA glue, put a nylon dummy shaft in the middle. Basically a thread of nylon, that won't glue itself and give you a clear shaft hole. Also... maybe consider making the rotor from 3 pieces. Two disc halves and a shaft from normal metal (or maybe titanium). You could "rebond" it all together using a drop of glue on top, and to make sure it doesn't wick to the sides/other side, bury the assembly in rodico. Just a thought.
AlNiCo magnets are quite ubiquitous in guitar making, and their resistance to machining was also a problem for Fender engineers when they wanted to develop a guitar pickup with adjustable pole pieces. Their solution to the problem was using CuNiFe magnets, which are supposedly a lot easier to machine.
Ooof, I don't hate myself enough to attempt something like this. BTW add photocuring UV adhesive to your arsenal - you can manipulate the part till you're happy with it and a bit of UV light will set it in place in an instant.
PhD student in the nano science here who regularly glues 125 um etched wires onto 150 um quartz tuning fork prongs: UV-curing glue will work a lot better than super glue, since you're not on a timer. By intentionally exposing it to UV, you can also make it more vicous if needed. Doing work with fine wires by hand doesn't go to well, I prefer to grab the wire with a normall closed needlenoose tweezer. You seem unaware of the existence of cutting tweezers, which do help a lot cutting small wires precisely.
Speaking of such things, I once watched an interview of a man, who would scratch microscopic writing on a grain of rice and such. The level of dexterity required is so high that even one’s own heart beat would cause problems, by shaking the hand. So to remedy this problem, he would swim many hours per day, to improve his cardiovascular system. He had achieved a record breaking heart rate of 30 beats per minute. The slow heart rate gave him time to write in between the heart beats. The writing was so small that a whole paragraph would fit on a pin head.
Your patience levels are off the charts. There's absolutely no way i could do this. Certainly a great first attempt, i look forward to seeing how much further down this rabbit hole you go.
I'm only a few minutes into this video when all of a sudden I realize that the inside of my mouth feels cold and dry. Then I realized my mouth was open, and probably had been for most of the video. This is amazing! So tiny, it's smaller than I had ever imagined trying to make anything. Thanks for sharing with us!
Amazing, as always. When milling PCBs, I like to cover the copper with machine oil. It facilitates the cut, but most importantly, keeps the awful fiber glass dust in the oil and away from the air and peoples lungs
Nice tip, I will remember that. Isopropanol works for machining aluminum, do you know if that would work for copper too? That would leave less residue than cutting oil
Same. I once played with 0.06mm thick enameled copper wire, and it was such a pain that I never toughed it again. I wanted to make costum guitar pickups, and now with 3D Printing I really would like to visit this topic again
Brilliant! I'm not sure if these other methods of motor driving are any easier to miniaturize, but I thought I would note them anyway: Electrostatic (corona discharge from a needle which pushes on the vanes of a tiny Crookes-radiometer), Induction ( Similar stator, but the rotor is not magnetized. Instead, a rotating magnetic field from the stator induces eddy currents in the rotor which produce a complementary magnetic field. ) I think the induction one is promising, since I've heard that such a stator can even rotate a plain copper slug.
10:32 for stuff like this, don't use solder. Go get the paste that's used for copper pipe installations. It contains an amount of solder. Put the wire on the pad, put the paste over the wire and the pad, then put a heatgun on it. You can use aluminium foil to insulate the areas you don't want heated.
Absolutely unbelievable work! I don't know if this can help but they do make micro manipulators for inverted microscopes. You may have seen pictures of glass micro syringes injecting stuff into single cells. This equipment is available on eBay but unfortunately guaranteed working examples are usually expensive.
11:11 wear a mask, then you can safely breathe around these kinds of sizes. I use one for soldering, and while the solder smoke pops out, my breathing doesn't disturb it, it goes in a single, clean line towards the extractor (almost like in those laboratory pictures with wind tunnels for the study of hurricanes).
Amazing project! I remember reading "plenty of room at the bottom" and wondering how the micromotor that one the prize was made. Thanks for clearing that mystery up! About the next attempt: how far would you get if you electroformed the rotor? You could make a two-layer mold and use Tollens' silver deposition to create the seed layer for the electroforming.
Does the rotor shaft need to rotate? If not then wouldn't it be easier to make it static, and rotate just the rotor plate? Less holes to get filled up with glue...
What about putting the jewel bearing on the bottom of the device with the rotor shaft going through the whole thing? A tiny clamp lid made of plastic with teflon on the “top” can reduce the friction and hold it in place. Then using marker on the edge of the rotor (instead of the top) and filming from the side to check if it works. I think this will hold it all together despite the magnetic forces and reduce friction. The lid can also act as a stop to hold the coils. Plastic toothpicks could be used instead of wood for pressing things together or a custom metal toothpick. Plastic tends to have static electricity though and i don’t know enough about micro electronics / magnetic fields to judge if this is a problem or not. Finally, perhaps using the circuit board as part of the initial mounting, then freeing it could help stabilize everything at this hand-made scale.
maybe you can press and sinter the iron boron neodymium mixture into a mold and magnetize the result? That looks like such a hard piece to make, maybe try grinding again?
Some thoughts: laying the coils flat might be better, though it might increase the volume depending on how you measure it. A three-coil two-pole design might be better, maybe a simple bar for the armature so it works partially as a switched reluctance motor, giving more torque to overcome the high friction at these scales.
Have you considered casting the motor parts? You might be able to grind, drill, mill, or etch away a negative impression of the part on a ceramic material and then fill it with filings from a magnet. You might be able to melt the filings in situ to form the part.
Its crazy, I do a lot of fine detailed work also that requires me to old my breath often and I am finding myself doing the same just watching this lol. I broke my brain I think.
A switched reluctance motor architecture might be a better choice - no need to magnetise the rotor, although you will have to constrain the axis of rotation better.
Would it be viable to encase the windings in extra adhesive or epoxy and then machine away the excess? Give yourself a little extra material to work with in the tweezers. Or does that violate the spirt of the exercise?
Can you make a jig for the cutoff step with the magnet. Am thinking a u-shaped jig with a precise aligned hole on each side that allows rods to come in, one from each side and nearly touch. The gap between is width of the finest grinding disc you can find. One rod has a hole that accepts the rotor shaft, with a short counterbore to allow the rotor top you want to preserve in. The other contains a hole the diameter of the main piece of stock. CA glue the final part into the jig, and then grind using the gap as a guide, then soak in acetone to release the part. You might even get away with making a part with simply a pair of holes so the final rota fits precisely and flush with the top surface. CA glue in, grind off close, sand / burnish flat, and then acetone.
Just Amazing! But, your video gave me some bizarre form or claustrophobia. I found myself holding my breath too. Perhaps on the next round you should consider making some kind of 4 axis micromanipulator tweezers to help with assembly.
You could take on some extra inspiration from how Feynman thought you would reach nanotechnology, and buy a couple of those DaVinci robot surgical modules that are autoclave but still single-use and so they're sold for far below their value on ebay after, like, I could imagine using that to get something that could "hand" wind that coil for under a couple hundred dollars.
The other big thing I would say here is, You've found out how finicky materials of this scale are, But you're testing each unknown by trying to continue the build process with the new thing, or at least you're editing it that way. Don't just run up Mount Everest. Try on a few pairs of climbing boots first!
You are really making the case for why the semiconductor industry uses spin coaters, liquid etchants and wire bonding machines, all in clean rooms. You already used one thing from that industry.
Лучший вариант создания миниатюрного мотора это послойное напыление, нанесение маски, протравка, нанесение растворимой поддержки и снова новый слой. Пирог после нескольких итераций оставить в растворителе для удаления ненужных поддержек. Магнитный якорь намагнитить заранее подготовленной катушкой по этой же технологии. Это кропотливо и долго, но микросхемы делают так же.
PS: I suspect the entire premise of this motor is the wrong direction. I get you are reproducing history here but what should be done without a doubt is a Corona Discharge motor. That or some action with Piezoelectric. Still electric motors but the physics at this scale should be far better than trying to work with electromagnets and could be powered with electrostatic fields or soundwaves.
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Nice reference to Mr Feynmans book in title pic !😊
Before you drop in the CA glue, put a nylon dummy shaft in the middle. Basically a thread of nylon, that won't glue itself and give you a clear shaft hole. Also... maybe consider making the rotor from 3 pieces. Two disc halves and a shaft from normal metal (or maybe titanium). You could "rebond" it all together using a drop of glue on top, and to make sure it doesn't wick to the sides/other side, bury the assembly in rodico. Just a thought.
Chronova Engineering: "What are your skills"? Hazel: "Electronics". Chronova, "Marry me".
AlNiCo magnets are quite ubiquitous in guitar making, and their resistance to machining was also a problem for Fender engineers when they wanted to develop a guitar pickup with adjustable pole pieces. Their solution to the problem was using CuNiFe magnets, which are supposedly a lot easier to machine.
This is the kind of content that keeps my faith in the power of the internet alive.
Ooof, I don't hate myself enough to attempt something like this.
BTW add photocuring UV adhesive to your arsenal - you can manipulate the part till you're happy with it and a bit of UV light will set it in place in an instant.
PhD student in the nano science here who regularly glues 125 um etched wires onto 150 um quartz tuning fork prongs: UV-curing glue will work a lot better than super glue, since you're not on a timer. By intentionally exposing it to UV, you can also make it more vicous if needed. Doing work with fine wires by hand doesn't go to well, I prefer to grab the wire with a normall closed needlenoose tweezer. You seem unaware of the existence of cutting tweezers, which do help a lot cutting small wires precisely.
I can confidently say that I will not be going down this rabbit hole. thank you for your sacrifice of time :-)
You could probably make a smaller electrostatic motor, as it avoids the need to wind coils.
Speaking of such things, I once watched an interview of a man, who would scratch microscopic writing on a grain of rice and such. The level of dexterity required is so high that even one’s own heart beat would cause problems, by shaking the hand. So to remedy this problem, he would swim many hours per day, to improve his cardiovascular system. He had achieved a record breaking heart rate of 30 beats per minute. The slow heart rate gave him time to write in between the heart beats. The writing was so small that a whole paragraph would fit on a pin head.
Your patience levels are off the charts. There's absolutely no way i could do this. Certainly a great first attempt, i look forward to seeing how much further down this rabbit hole you go.
I'm only a few minutes into this video when all of a sudden I realize that the inside of my mouth feels cold and dry. Then I realized my mouth was open, and probably had been for most of the video. This is amazing! So tiny, it's smaller than I had ever imagined trying to make anything. Thanks for sharing with us!
Amazing, as always. When milling PCBs, I like to cover the copper with machine oil. It facilitates the cut, but most importantly, keeps the awful fiber glass dust in the oil and away from the air and peoples lungs
Nice tip, I will remember that. Isopropanol works for machining aluminum, do you know if that would work for copper too? That would leave less residue than cutting oil
My brain doesn´t take the scale of this project.
Same. I once played with 0.06mm thick enameled copper wire, and it was such a pain that I never toughed it again. I wanted to make costum guitar pickups, and now with 3D Printing I really would like to visit this topic again
You should tottally try to make a gasoline powered wristwatch someday. If anyone can do it, you can!
lol, why do you want a burned wrist?
Bravo to you sir. Amazing. Such detail and precision
I'd have lost my mind trying to do this.
Great work!
Now that is dedication for you. Awesome work Mike.😊
Wow really amazing!
Beautiful work!
Love it!!! Reminds me of DeBethune's micro dynamo
Crazy stuff, I love it !
Thats mind blowing
This seems like it should be impossible.
Amazing work!
Definitely getting "The Tale of Cross-eyed Lefty from Tula and the Steel Flea" vibes, lol. Amazing work.
Brilliant! I'm not sure if these other methods of motor driving are any easier to miniaturize, but I thought I would note them anyway: Electrostatic (corona discharge from a needle which pushes on the vanes of a tiny Crookes-radiometer), Induction ( Similar stator, but the rotor is not magnetized. Instead, a rotating magnetic field from the stator induces eddy currents in the rotor which produce a complementary magnetic field. ) I think the induction one is promising, since I've heard that such a stator can even rotate a plain copper slug.
Crazy 😧 great job 👏👏👏🤓
10:32 for stuff like this, don't use solder. Go get the paste that's used for copper pipe installations. It contains an amount of solder. Put the wire on the pad, put the paste over the wire and the pad, then put a heatgun on it. You can use aluminium foil to insulate the areas you don't want heated.
Why use that and not solder paste, which is designed for soldering small electronics to pads?
Absolutely unbelievable work! I don't know if this can help but they do make micro manipulators for inverted microscopes. You may have seen pictures of glass micro syringes injecting stuff into single cells. This equipment is available on eBay but unfortunately guaranteed working examples are usually expensive.
11:11 wear a mask, then you can safely breathe around these kinds of sizes. I use one for soldering, and while the solder smoke pops out, my breathing doesn't disturb it, it goes in a single, clean line towards the extractor (almost like in those laboratory pictures with wind tunnels for the study of hurricanes).
Amazing project! I remember reading "plenty of room at the bottom" and wondering how the micromotor that one the prize was made. Thanks for clearing that mystery up! About the next attempt: how far would you get if you electroformed the rotor? You could make a two-layer mold and use Tollens' silver deposition to create the seed layer for the electroforming.
Nanotech was a big dream in the late 1980s-1990s-2000. Then.. nothing of importance came out. No medical nanobots cleaning our blood vessels.
Nothing.
Does the rotor shaft need to rotate? If not then wouldn't it be easier to make it static, and rotate just the rotor plate? Less holes to get filled up with glue...
Amazing.
Astonishing. My screen resolution was barely enough to see these parts.
You are unbelievably talented. I’ve been here since 10k followers and I’ll be here when you inevitably hit 1m.
What microscope do you use?
Mind. Blown.
What about putting the jewel bearing on the bottom of the device with the rotor shaft going through the whole thing?
A tiny clamp lid made of plastic with teflon on the “top” can reduce the friction and hold it in place.
Then using marker on the edge of the rotor (instead of the top) and filming from the side to check if it works.
I think this will hold it all together despite the magnetic forces and reduce friction.
The lid can also act as a stop to hold the coils. Plastic toothpicks could be used instead of wood for pressing things together or a custom metal toothpick.
Plastic tends to have static electricity though and i don’t know enough about micro electronics / magnetic fields to judge if this is a problem or not.
Finally, perhaps using the circuit board as part of the initial mounting, then freeing it could help stabilize everything at this hand-made scale.
6.6k views and 83 comments in 2 hours!
Nice to see you guys again!
Just making the stator was already great achievement
Excellent
maybe you can press and sinter the iron boron neodymium mixture into a mold and magnetize the result? That looks like such a hard piece to make, maybe try grinding again?
I was looking at the apparently-Chinese characters on the wire spool, and thought:
"You're going to need a real Feng Shui master for this job!"
what about center drilling the rotor and pressing a shaft in
Crazy bastard. Cool stuff, I'd lose my mind if I tried.
Some thoughts: laying the coils flat might be better, though it might increase the volume depending on how you measure it. A three-coil two-pole design might be better, maybe a simple bar for the armature so it works partially as a switched reluctance motor, giving more torque to overcome the high friction at these scales.
Have you considered casting the motor parts? You might be able to grind, drill, mill, or etch away a negative impression of the part on a ceramic material and then fill it with filings from a magnet. You might be able to melt the filings in situ to form the part.
You are a fine masochist!
Its crazy, I do a lot of fine detailed work also that requires me to old my breath often and I am finding myself doing the same just watching this lol. I broke my brain I think.
could have started with a motor 5x times the final size and learn/refine/improve the processes
Make it bigger
A switched reluctance motor architecture might be a better choice - no need to magnetise the rotor, although you will have to constrain the axis of rotation better.
What can be improved in version 2? Shaft with ball bearing.
Do you mind telling me how much current and volatge youre using for each coil?
The emperor's new motor.
Would it be viable to encase the windings in extra adhesive or epoxy and then machine away the excess? Give yourself a little extra material to work with in the tweezers. Or does that violate the spirt of the exercise?
You can sputter your motor down to the sub micron scale if you have the equipment. Just get a mask with axial flux windings.
Now you although need to build a little planetary gearbox for it and it's the tiniest cordless drill on TH-cam
What gage was that magnet wire? 43 ?
awesome
You can use surgical needles instead of toothpicks
Can you make a jig for the cutoff step with the magnet. Am thinking a u-shaped jig with a precise aligned hole on each side that allows rods to come in, one from each side and nearly touch. The gap between is width of the finest grinding disc you can find.
One rod has a hole that accepts the rotor shaft, with a short counterbore to allow the rotor top you want to preserve in. The other contains a hole the diameter of the main piece of stock. CA glue the final part into the jig, and then grind using the gap as a guide, then soak in acetone to release the part.
You might even get away with making a part with simply a pair of holes so the final rota fits precisely and flush with the top surface. CA glue in, grind off close, sand / burnish flat, and then acetone.
i always had this question and never could find an answer, Like how small could a motor be.
Just Amazing! But, your video gave me some bizarre form or claustrophobia. I found myself holding my breath too. Perhaps on the next round you should consider making some kind of 4 axis micromanipulator tweezers to help with assembly.
a common thing is an ESD grounds which make things less likely to fly off.
see techniques used by MEMS labs
Crazy impressive
You could take on some extra inspiration from how Feynman thought you would reach nanotechnology, and buy a couple of those DaVinci robot surgical modules that are autoclave but still single-use and so they're sold for far below their value on ebay after, like, I could imagine using that to get something that could "hand" wind that coil for under a couple hundred dollars.
The other big thing I would say here is, You've found out how finicky materials of this scale are, But you're testing each unknown by trying to continue the build process with the new thing, or at least you're editing it that way. Don't just run up Mount Everest. Try on a few pairs of climbing boots first!
You are really making the case for why the semiconductor industry uses spin coaters, liquid etchants and wire bonding machines, all in clean rooms. You already used one thing from that industry.
Why not use a magnet instead of a bunch of water
Making parts of the scale without lithography you probably want to consider wire EDM machines. You’ll have to hire someone to make it for you.
i think at this scale, silicon etched parts are easier to manufacture
I thought you were joking about that first part!
This is incredible
Ok this is insane....😮😅
Wild
@8:52 ...and attempting to clean it using a large dead tree that had fallen by the side of the road just made it worse.
WOW.
Лучший вариант создания миниатюрного мотора это послойное напыление, нанесение маски, протравка, нанесение растворимой поддержки и снова новый слой. Пирог после нескольких итераций оставить в растворителе для удаления ненужных поддержек. Магнитный якорь намагнитить заранее подготовленной катушкой по этой же технологии. Это кропотливо и долго, но микросхемы делают так же.
Next video: Building the worlds smallest drone
😮
PS: I suspect the entire premise of this motor is the wrong direction. I get you are reproducing history here but what should be done without a doubt is a Corona Discharge motor. That or some action with Piezoelectric. Still electric motors but the physics at this scale should be far better than trying to work with electromagnets and could be powered with electrostatic fields or soundwaves.
Where jewelry and electronics meet
NANOTECHNOLOGY ;)
WoW
can't believe you did all that, standing
lol what a waste of fucking time, but interesting too
Solid!
Top KEK!
Peace be with you.
clicked because Feynman
Amazing project, During the assembly, you might get help from a watchmaker. What is the name of the piano music you used in the video.
humbling...
Nackt hi Nils to make the smalest mechanikal clock
You are insane.....😅
ATP: "AM I A JOKE TO YOU?! th-cam.com/video/kXpzp4RDGJI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=S68Ovch-z_P3pNWb
sinter it