Thanks for watching RG - I really do like this stuff. It does seem to work a bit better than over thinning or reducing clear or paint like the old days :)
I have used the fade out from an aerosol but I prefer using fade out from a can (Spectral Extra 895),that way you can add a little of your clearcoat to it for UV protection and it will polish as a blend area better.
Thanks for that info - hope all is well with you too. Where about in England? Is it nice there right now or are folks grumbling - people aren't too happy here in US right now 😡😠🤬
When do you use the product? Timing wise. Is the clear flashed off? Just after applying the clear? Is the clear tacky or cured etc? I normally put 50% thinners and 50% clear and spray out edges with that - or pick up dry spots. I let the clear flash off for 10mins before I do that.
Right after the last coat of clear - the very second you finish - you don't have to wait any time at all. You're fine doing it with reduced clear, pant, etc. Some use plain 'ol straight reducer.
Probably not. For that you can just use over reduced paint/hardener. On your last coat, go ahead and throw a bunch of acetone in the cup with the remaining paint/hardener - that will be you blender. That's an old body shop method that worked real well with lacquer but sometimes not so good with enamel paints :)
Yes. You can spray the whole jamb or try to melt in the edges with thin clear or even reducer. This seems to work a bit better than using thinned clear, paint, or straight reducer 👍
It's works both ways but better when the new is wet. Here's when the paint has dried for about an hour or two already - th-cam.com/video/Turxmxnasp0/w-d-xo.html
You can if you need to and it works really well like that. I've only done small areas though so - not sure how it will do in the middle of a hood or door :)
You can't use either one of those with Sherwin Williams clears they don't play well however Sherwin Williams has there own blending agent or you use there US3 reducer in there ultra line
Didn't know there was such a thing...now I do! Thanks for more great info!
You're welcome :)
Hey Jerry. That jamb came out very nice considering what you started with. Have a great weekend
waiting on your new vid as well greg
Thanks for watching, have a great weekend too Greg 👍⚾
Great stuff, you can see it as it’s working. Thanks
Thanks for watching RG - I really do like this stuff. It does seem to work a bit better than over thinning or reducing clear or paint like the old days :)
I have used the fade out from an aerosol but I prefer using fade out from a can (Spectral Extra 895),that way you can add a little of your clearcoat to it for UV protection and it will polish as a blend area better.
Thanks for your tips Pete - good to hear all the methods out there :)
Thanks Jerry ! I had never heard of this before, I will use this soon
It comes in handy for small areas so far. I have not tried it on a large panel though yet :)
Hi Jerry it's Pat. I am locked out of my account. What is your physical business address?
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for great video
Never heard of this, great vid Jerry. Just getting caught up on your content. Was away
Thanks for watching Stephan - hope all is well with you and your family :)
in England we call that fade out thinners ! hope you are well ;)
Thanks for that info - hope all is well with you too. Where about in England? Is it nice there right now or are folks grumbling - people aren't too happy here in US right now 😡😠🤬
@@LakesideAutobody Im in Widnes near Liverpool. I think people moan where ever they are lol!!
When do you use the product? Timing wise. Is the clear flashed off? Just after applying the clear? Is the clear tacky or cured etc?
I normally put 50% thinners and 50% clear and spray out edges with that - or pick up dry spots. I let the clear flash off for 10mins before I do that.
Right after the last coat of clear - the very second you finish - you don't have to wait any time at all. You're fine doing it with reduced clear, pant, etc. Some use plain 'ol straight reducer.
Nice little video great information keep up the good work .How is the AMX coming along
The AMX is about to be started for the first time in 40 years. I'll do an update video on that soon - thanks for asking Brad - have a great weekend :)
Will that work on rustoleum single stage paint cut with acetone and majik hardener?
Probably not. For that you can just use over reduced paint/hardener. On your last coat, go ahead and throw a bunch of acetone in the cup with the remaining paint/hardener - that will be you blender. That's an old body shop method that worked real well with lacquer but sometimes not so good with enamel paints :)
So what do you get if you don't use this product? Dry overspray on the outter edges of the sprayed area?
Yes. You can spray the whole jamb or try to melt in the edges with thin clear or even reducer. This seems to work a bit better than using thinned clear, paint, or straight reducer 👍
Does it matter if you let the new spray dry or not?
It's works both ways but better when the new is wet. Here's when the paint has dried for about an hour or two already - th-cam.com/video/Turxmxnasp0/w-d-xo.html
Do you have to buff after it dry?
You can if you need to and it works really well like that. I've only done small areas though so - not sure how it will do in the middle of a hood or door :)
Basically it's slow thinner in a can
Yes - but to me it seems to work a bit better. Maybe just a placebo type effect though - like 'cause the can says it works - I believe in it :)
You can't use either one of those with Sherwin Williams clears they don't play well however Sherwin Williams has there own blending agent or you use there US3 reducer in there ultra line
Good to know - I appreciate the tip my friend - have a good weekend :)
if thats not an "aha" moment I dont know what is, drink some for me Jerry, have a great weekend
You too YY - thanks for always commenting and watching 👍✌️
@@LakesideAutobody I have never had to use blending clear so its still clear as mud but this video helped me alot
I just keep a paint gun filled with slow reducer