I have just done this self service earlier and now my car is idling at .680mph when turning on the A/C is barely up .710mph or less. It had a rough start about 5second then it calibrated itself. I gave it a ride and oh boy.. it was smoother than before. Thank you so so much for sharing this video and making everyone else life easier! Cheers!
20분이면 손재주가 있으시네요. 막상 분해해보고 나면 별거 아닌데, 처음에 할때는 괜히 뭐를 잘 못 건드릴 까봐 살짝 망설여 질때 있죠. 카본이 많이 끼였을 경우 청소하고 시동 걸면 idle (공회전) rpm 이 평상시 약간 높게 1500-2000 까지 오를 수 있어요. 스로틀 내부 둥군 문이 카본때문에 약간 더 열린 게 더 조금 더 닫히면 공기보다 연로가 더 공급돼 일시적인 현상이고, 그냥 평상시 하던 대로 30-60분 정도 운전하시면 차 콤퓨터 (ecu) 다시 공기와 연로 비율을 적절하게 계산하니 염려하실 거 없어요.
@@DIYLifeSkills 넵 감사합니다! 말씀하신대로 어디를 손대야 할지 몰라서 미루고 있었습니다 ㅋ 커버뜯고 이런 시간 다하면 30분 정도는 걸린듯합니다. 배터리 -단자 빼놓고 했는데 시동직후 rpm이 2천 정도길래 (평상시는 영하 15도에서 걸어도 1500 언더였습니다) 그냥 주행할까 재학습 해볼까 하다가 확실하게 몰라서 유튭 영상보고 재학습 한번 했습니다 다행이 5분 남짓해서 rpm이 정상으로 돌아오더군요 다음에 할땐 그냥 셀프학습하게 놔두어야 겠네요 ^^;;
@@우리고해 Car Care Nut 이라는 유튜브 채널의 토요타/렉서스 베테랑 마스터 정비사의 말로는 토요타와 렉서스에서 공개된 Idle RPM Reset 방식은 없다네요. 자도 인터넷에 떠도는 방식으로 여러 토요타와 렉서스에 해봤는데 RPM 이 정상으로 돌아 오는 거 같기도 하고, 아니면 그냥 시동을 걸어 놓아서 되돌아 온 거 같기도 하고. 아무튼 운전을 하면 30-60분내에 RPM 이 정상으로 돌라 오는 거 만큼은 여러번 확인됐습니다.
@@DIYLifeSkills 옙..저도 정확하게 뭣때문인지는 긴가민가 했었습니다. 3세대 (07~12년) gs는 자가학습 가능하단 의견도 많긴했구요.. 안 해본거 하나하나 해가면서 배우는 재미가 너무 쏠쏠했었네요.. 한국은 미국과 달리 십년넘은 구형차 자가 정비하면서 타면 거지 취급하는 잘못된 문화가 아직 남아 있습니다 ㅠㅠ... 저는 정말이지 4기통보단 6기통을 좋아 하거든요.. 왜에에앵~~ 보단 부우으응~~ 하는 엔진음이 너무 좋더라구요,, gs350이 닛산 maxima보다 두 세배 이상 비싼차량이지만 엔진사운드 만큼은 VQ 6기통보단 못한거 같아요.. 그래서 저도 차후엔 gs 8기통을 타보려고 합니다..ㅎㅎ;;
If you look at 4:01 mark in this video, you can see the round rubber o-ring shaped gasket on the intake side. Actually, you can remove that and the metal grill looking thing, and clean in there as well. This o-ring is not exposed to oil or hot temperature, so mine appeared to be in good shape and I didn’t replace it.
TB to intake connection area is not under any pressure and rarely it’s going to leak and the o-ring will last a long time. But since it’s only $5 to $10, you could replace it if you like.
hey man, does this car have a throttle position sensor like older toyotas, or is this one the black thing on the side of the throttle body that is plugged in? is it seperate or do you need to replace the entire throttle body. i believe the sensor is faulty based off the live data
Based on my experience on watching many cars, I think every 30-50K miles is sufficient for most cars, but I end up doing it more frequently because I’m constantly doing TH-cam DIY projects and have the car open.
I have a 06 430 and from 2nd gear to first I'm getting a jerk or bucking...i have read on forums that it is the ECU...pretty common in the gs community have you heard of this issue...or have any recommendations...
I have 2010 gs350 and it has the same problem. When the engine is a little below operating temperature the transmission is smooth, once the engine in operating temperature the transmission jerk when moving from 2nd gear to 3rd.
Hi mate, after my is250 throttle body cleaning, the idle does not go below 1000rpm. I tried to recalibrate and reset the ECU with scanner dozens of times, but no success. After resetting, it lasts about 800rpm for the first 1-2 minutes and then goes up to 1000rpm or more again. Error code p0505 is displayed frequently. I've cleaned the throttle body of many cars, but this is the first time this has happened. I'm going crazy because of this. I'm thinking of replacing the throttle body first. Any idea?
Sorry to hear that. What year and how many miles in the car? Under normal circumstance, idle may be rough right after TB cleaning, but as you drive ECU constantly detects air/fuel mixture ratio and auto adjusts the idle (air/fuel ratio) properly. Unless the car is misfiring bade my, have you try to drive it for 20-40 mins?
The most common cause for P0505 is vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses for any leak or crack. Also make sure you cleaned the TB directly and plate inside the TB can move freely without obstruction. And I’m assuming you cleaned the MAF (mass airflow sensor) as well? It could also be the IAC movement is restricted from carbon build up. Take a look at this video. But I would rule out other things I mentioned above before purchasing new TB/IAC. TB usually does not fail easily. th-cam.com/video/L5M6ESEuVkk/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYLifeSkills Hi mate, Sorry for the late reply, I didn't realize you left a comment. my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km. During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up. These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body. I checked all the vacuum hoses and intake gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem. Lastly, I'm suspicious of the alternator, but it charges well and the voltage is stable....... So there's no reason to change it, but there's nothing more to do, so I'm thinking of changing it.
I have just done this self service earlier and now my car is idling at .680mph when turning on the A/C is barely up .710mph or less. It had a rough start about 5second then it calibrated itself. I gave it a ride and oh boy.. it was smoother than before. Thank you so so much for sharing this video and making everyone else life easier! Cheers!
Great job. Do this every couple of years.
주말이라 시간내서 해봤는데 금방이네요 ^^
선배님 영상 덕분에 20분 남짓해서 끝냈습니다
처음에는 어디를 분해해야 하는지 몰라서 포기했었는데 영상따라서 딱 필요한곳만 뽑고 나니 쉬웠습니다
가져와서 1.5만 마일쯤 탔는데 생각보다
더러워서 하고 나니까 개운합니다 ㅎ,ㅎ;;
다음에는 흡기커버쪽 시도해봐야곘네요
감사합니다. 즐거운 주말 되세요~~
20분이면 손재주가 있으시네요. 막상 분해해보고 나면 별거 아닌데, 처음에 할때는 괜히 뭐를 잘 못 건드릴 까봐 살짝 망설여 질때 있죠. 카본이 많이 끼였을 경우 청소하고 시동 걸면 idle (공회전) rpm 이 평상시 약간 높게 1500-2000 까지 오를 수 있어요. 스로틀 내부 둥군 문이 카본때문에 약간 더 열린 게 더 조금 더 닫히면 공기보다 연로가 더 공급돼 일시적인 현상이고, 그냥 평상시 하던 대로 30-60분 정도 운전하시면 차 콤퓨터 (ecu) 다시 공기와 연로 비율을 적절하게 계산하니 염려하실 거 없어요.
@@DIYLifeSkills 넵 감사합니다!
말씀하신대로 어디를 손대야 할지 몰라서
미루고 있었습니다 ㅋ
커버뜯고 이런 시간 다하면 30분 정도는 걸린듯합니다.
배터리 -단자 빼놓고 했는데 시동직후 rpm이
2천 정도길래 (평상시는 영하 15도에서 걸어도 1500 언더였습니다) 그냥 주행할까 재학습 해볼까 하다가 확실하게 몰라서 유튭 영상보고 재학습 한번 했습니다
다행이 5분 남짓해서 rpm이 정상으로 돌아오더군요
다음에 할땐 그냥 셀프학습하게 놔두어야 겠네요 ^^;;
@@우리고해 Car Care Nut 이라는 유튜브 채널의 토요타/렉서스 베테랑 마스터 정비사의 말로는 토요타와 렉서스에서 공개된 Idle RPM Reset 방식은 없다네요. 자도 인터넷에 떠도는 방식으로 여러 토요타와 렉서스에 해봤는데 RPM 이 정상으로 돌아 오는 거 같기도 하고, 아니면 그냥 시동을 걸어 놓아서 되돌아 온 거 같기도 하고. 아무튼 운전을 하면 30-60분내에 RPM 이 정상으로 돌라 오는 거 만큼은 여러번 확인됐습니다.
@@우리고해 하지만 예전에 탔던 일부 독일과 다른 일본 차종은 권하는 idle relearn 방식이 있더라구요.
@@DIYLifeSkills 옙..저도 정확하게 뭣때문인지는 긴가민가 했었습니다.
3세대 (07~12년) gs는 자가학습 가능하단 의견도 많긴했구요..
안 해본거 하나하나 해가면서 배우는 재미가
너무 쏠쏠했었네요..
한국은 미국과 달리 십년넘은 구형차 자가
정비하면서 타면 거지 취급하는 잘못된 문화가 아직 남아 있습니다 ㅠㅠ...
저는 정말이지 4기통보단 6기통을 좋아 하거든요..
왜에에앵~~ 보단 부우으응~~ 하는 엔진음이 너무 좋더라구요,,
gs350이 닛산 maxima보다 두 세배 이상 비싼차량이지만 엔진사운드 만큼은 VQ 6기통보단 못한거 같아요..
그래서 저도 차후엔 gs 8기통을 타보려고
합니다..ㅎㅎ;;
TY for specifications
planing on clean up 07 gs350.
Im wondered there is no gaskit
between T.B and intkae ass'y
even 2002 maxima was had it
If you look at 4:01 mark in this video, you can see the round rubber o-ring shaped gasket on the intake side. Actually, you can remove that and the metal grill looking thing, and clean in there as well. This o-ring is not exposed to oil or hot temperature, so mine appeared to be in good shape and I didn’t replace it.
TB to intake connection area is not under any pressure and rarely it’s going to leak and the o-ring will last a long time. But since it’s only $5 to $10, you could replace it if you like.
@@DIYLifeSkills TY very much!!
i missed it
hey man, does this car have a throttle position sensor like older toyotas, or is this one the black thing on the side of the throttle body that is plugged in? is it seperate or do you need to replace the entire throttle body. i believe the sensor is faulty based off the live data
That sensor is integrated into the TB. And yes, it’s that black plastic piece that houses the sensor. I’ve seen one video of someone taking it apart.
How many mile/km has your car done currently. How often do you recommend cleaning the throttle body?
Based on my experience on watching many cars, I think every 30-50K miles is sufficient for most cars, but I end up doing it more frequently because I’m constantly doing TH-cam DIY projects and have the car open.
I have a 06 430 and from 2nd gear to first I'm getting a jerk or bucking...i have read on forums that it is the ECU...pretty common in the gs community have you heard of this issue...or have any recommendations...
I have 2010 gs350 and it has the same problem. When the engine is a little below operating temperature the transmission is smooth, once the engine in operating temperature the transmission jerk when moving from 2nd gear to 3rd.
Hi mate, after my is250 throttle body cleaning, the idle does not go below 1000rpm.
I tried to recalibrate and reset the ECU with scanner dozens of times, but no success.
After resetting, it lasts about 800rpm for the first 1-2 minutes and then goes up to 1000rpm or more again.
Error code p0505 is displayed frequently. I've cleaned the throttle body of many cars, but this is the first time this has happened.
I'm going crazy because of this.
I'm thinking of replacing the throttle body first.
Any idea?
Sorry to hear that. What year and how many miles in the car?
Under normal circumstance, idle may be rough right after TB cleaning, but as you drive ECU constantly detects air/fuel mixture ratio and auto adjusts the idle (air/fuel ratio) properly. Unless the car is misfiring bade my, have you try to drive it for 20-40 mins?
The most common cause for P0505 is vacuum leak. Check vacuum hoses for any leak or crack. Also make sure you cleaned the TB directly and plate inside the TB can move freely without obstruction. And I’m assuming you cleaned the MAF (mass airflow sensor) as well? It could also be the IAC movement is restricted from carbon build up. Take a look at this video. But I would rule out other things I mentioned above before purchasing new TB/IAC. TB usually does not fail easily.
th-cam.com/video/L5M6ESEuVkk/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYLifeSkills Hi mate, Sorry for the late reply, I didn't realize you left a comment. my 2006 IS250 has done 190k km.
During cold start, it idles at about 1500 RPM for about 10 seconds and then jumps over 1800 RPM. It does not go below 1000 RPM even when fully warmed up.
These symptoms started after cleaning the throttle body. I checked all the vacuum hoses and intake gaskets and replaced the spark plugs, throttle body and ECM, but the symptoms did not change at all. Even my mechanic couldn't figure out what was the problem.
Lastly, I'm suspicious of the alternator, but it charges well and the voltage is stable....... So there's no reason to change it, but there's nothing more to do, so I'm thinking of changing it.
Did you figure this out? Im worried about cleaning mine based on your exp @@abchkbh
You need a catch can!
Yup, I did considered it and shopped around, but haven’t figured out the convenient space to mount it. Did you install one for this car?
@@DIYLifeSkills Yes I did. I bought it on Amazon
@@personalprivilege6992 Which one did you buy and where inside the engine compartment did you installed it?