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Mate could you help me i have 2007 audi a3 sine 170 tdi model.keeps cutting out having to use easy start through air vent but only a week.is it crank shaft sensor as I seem to keep been told this but someone said gear box has to be taken out wtf
Had a diesel golf for the last 5/6yrs, I fully recommended Comma Diesel Magic, it’s a diesel booster so if used with supermarket fuel, it’ll improve the cetane number of the fuel but it’s also a injector cleaner- just like Millers Diesel version but 50% cheaper! My diesels have always been run on this and does a great job of keeping the car smooth and even start ups are smoother! Try it out Brad, there’s a video to be made there on before and after 🤘🏼
Great vid. Just a note, on PD engines you just simply swap the filter, dont run them out of fuel. Dont even have to fill the filter just cycle the key a few times and start. Ive done a few while I was an apprentice, albeit on 1.9PDs and each time, just swapped the filter, cycled the key 2-3 times started and other than a few seconds longer crank, they always start up fine and thats it. If you run it out of fuel thats when they take ages to start again like it did for you :P Edit: Im wondering, you keep saying the hesitation only happens when you change gear. Clutch pedal sensor maybe? What if you just unplug it, see if that does anything. They go bad pretty often, at least on 1.8s and 1.9s. Dont see why it could but after working on these cars I learned that sometimes stuff that you least expect it can cause the problems.
My mk5 golf 1.9pd had the same issue as you but not that bad on start ups but it still struggled to start sometimes and hesitation at 2500rpm only in 3rd gear. Never really diagnosed it as my flywheel went on it so scrapped it. I changed fuel filter but didn't help
Dizel diagnostic is pretty hard on something like that, I had a similar issue on my bmw 120d, hesitation went away after I repaired injectors but I was still left with hard start and lumpy idle on cold starts....after few months of changing pretty much everything, problem was glow plug modul, after changing that modul and all glow plugs car runs like a clock....Awsome content bro, there is not much ppl that are filming diesel stuff on youtube, keep it up 👍
Good on you changing the speed sensor. Mine broke on my mk4 and 2 days later my gearbox exploded so yeah would be wise to replace it as soon as it comes on.
In regards to your hesitation have you checked your torsion value? I recently discovered that my torsion value was out and resulted in adjusting the cam like 1mm and now my car runs like a dream
Yh I’ve just but a new wiring loom for the injectors and hoping that sorts mine out rather than replace the injectors. Also got the map sensor and all that stuff.
have a b7 myself mate brd 170 kinda at same stage you are but i havnt mapped and not sure if i will ha everything i watched you do iv done myself. i will say this. the one best thing i did myself was gut the dpf. the first drive after was like a new car. turbo is so much happier with less back pressure and it got rid of all the lumpiness i was feeling under wot. enjoying the b7 content .
Did you have any smoke when putting foot down? And on very light smoke on idle? Mine does the same thing with gear changes but more so in mornings till its warmed up..
I had the exact same problem with stuttering when accelerating. Only when Ive got my foot to the floor. Replaced the filter, (also similar problem with being given the incorrect filter) dropped in a bottle of wynns diesel system cleaner for good measure and that fixed it. Around the same time that it started happening to me I struggled to get fuel during the fuel shortages and ended up running extremely low, so it clearly picked up a load of crap from the bottom of the tank.
I have the BMN and had the same problem with the engine being difficult to start sometimes esp when cold. Eventually the starter died, replaced it with a golf mk6 one as apparently that revision has fixed what caused it to die and ever since no starting problems.
Also if it has a clutch pedal switch maybe worth replacing it (or checking to see if its dislodged/moved out of spec position) 1005 that and the injector loom as suggested in the other comment i left on the last video is where i would be looking next
I had the same problem on my A4, 2.0 TDI, BRD engine, after installing cruise control and checking the clutch switch it turned out to be an intermittent clutch pedal switch 👍 Audis kill the power when you press the clutch, if you have vcds you can check the clutch position on there, or just replace it, they’re cheap enough! Mine was getting stuck down momentarily when releasing the pedal 👍
I have the same car and mine starts rough on a morning too, I have no hesitation though. Looking forward to see if you sort it as I'm lost as what to try next 😂
Same issue on mine, I'm changing the crankshaft/camshaft position sensor, not the same sensor in the video btw, this sensor actually sits in the cambelt housing, and the cable runs below the inlet manifold. It's a bit of a b%&*h to get out of the housing though. Yet to try and change mine again :D
For anyone else, all that parts removal is not necessary, yes it makes access alot easier but you only have to remove the 2 hoses on the oil cooler and face them up to actually get to it. I've done it twice now. As long as you've got a long enough Allen/hex key it's doable. Saves draining fluids. Just top up coolant after only loose 0.5 - 1 litre
Hi, do you think is the same for a 2016 Audi A6 2.0 TDI Ultra , C7 model, CNHA engine model? I’ve pulled the code P0322 with the VCDS, car hesitating on acceleration and once or twice ended up with the glow plug sign flashing soon as it felt the engine will die, then went a bit limp mode, once stoped the engine and restart everything was fine, what I find weird is that it happens around 20-25 min after I start from cold but can happen at a larger interval as well. This started only 6 days ago on and off.
@@ae861616 yes, I did. Crankshaft sensor, my guess was right after all, ordered from Audi bit over £100 and changed with my local mechanic (had the repair manual but he found an quicker but not easier way to reach it, less things to remove) to access it, 1 hour job. Runs lovely again.
Nice fix, wow that sensor was deep down in the engine bay. Good you got it done. You should wear latex gloves as the old oily dirt and grime is bad for your skin. Great video, more of your cat.👊🏼👊🏼🤟
Replace the cam sensor! My sister has the BKD and the cam sensor was faulty! Also check the timing marks because if it is, will cause starting issues. I have e the 1.9tdi awx and I’m suffering starting delays..
You can adjust the timing on these engines. You will ideally want a vag com to do it. Adjusting this if its not right can fix rough idle, misfires, fuel consumption, excessive smoke. A lot of people over look this and end up spending £1000s on injectors and turbos to not even fix the problem
@@BWTV I had a lovely mk 4 golf 83000 miles on I put R32 mk 4 rimms on I loved it then I sold it and bought a mk 5 R32 I loved that aswell but through covid had to sell it to pay rent now saving for another one
The black fuel, is fuel mixing with oil in the tandem pump. Could be the gasket, but it could also be the pump itself. With the hesitation issue only happening when schifting, my only guess would be the injectors not being able to adjust quickly enough. Its's too late now, but i would've filled up the Diesel filter with diesel cleaning fluid, before putting it in (i.e. Liqui Moly). That might help, especially with how oily the fuel is.
I think next up I will change the pump and gasket and see if theres any changes, if nothing works then I think my last resort is the injectors 😤 thanks for your advice 👌
Your issue is the same as mine. It's an injector issue. The seal are gone/going and when sitting for some time the system loses pressure and the fuel drains back into the tank. This is why it will sometimes take more than one attempt to start. But then once up and running, you can turn the engine off and instantly back on again without issue, because the pressure is still there. Leave it overnight though, and the pressure will be gone. It's an injector out job.
Update. This was completely wrong. What actually solved mine was a brand new starter. It would start on second attempt every time but that first attempt in the morning from cold it would intermittently decide to non start. Confirmed on the ramp from heat marks on the plastics/connections so replaced with Bosch starter and it starts first time every time now thankfully
One very common fault people don't realise is that very plastic valve that sits on the fuel filter has to be changed as well that is the return feed it can trouble you. It's a good practice to do it as much as you're doing the filter. And yeah that is what you're going to be like dirty hands when working on diesel.
By the sounds of it could be a tandem pump issue, can buy a gasket kit for these, common issue with the gaskets failing. Once the in tank lift pump gets the fuel the tandem pump takes over controlling the vacuum system and the fuel off the camshaft.
I did that on my mums car she’s got a Passat b6 2.0 tdi once the oil filter housing is out it’s not to bad to do but it’s at a awkward place where it’s behind the housing I made the mistake of not changing the oil filter housing gasket so had to do the job again 😓
im just wondering what kind of order of jobs youre following.. cause if you have power problem you should start from filters, battery, engine oil, fuel pump, glow plugs... my little advice is dont listen too much the people on the groups, they would change the whole negine just for an engine esitation...
If you remove the oil pressure sensor it makes getting the turbo drain line much easier to remove and I reckon you broke the pressure sensor while undoing the turbo oil line.
I have the same code and the same starting problems, I am not looking forward to this job. I am fairly certain that, for me, the problem will be the crankshaft sensor because on the occasions it's not started it's just cranked until the battery runs flat and then done the same with the booster pack. It first happened at -5C so I thought, Ok it's a one off. It happened a few more times and then this fault code appeared. I also have a rough idle and noticeable lack of power. No hesistation as such, just a sort of lack of grunt that it used to have, which I would expect if it was struggling to read the crank position and time the injection correctly. My fuel filter is a year old as I change it every service (I know this isn't particularly necessary). I just wanted to say for anyone watching this that it isn't necessary to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine dry, it's not going to spray fuel. Also, you don't need to pre-fill the new filter unless you decide to pour the contents of the old one into the new one to avoid wasting it. The PD engine is self bleeding and I've never had any starting issues after changing an oil filter and not pre-filling it.
Also, the reason it struggled to start after priming was because the lined between the filter and engine were dry so pre-filling the filter to avoid air in the lines was a wasted effort.
It usually costs around £100 and they come to your house to do it. I believe they run acid thru the injectors while it's running, it like a mini decoke.
So my man, check injectors with graphics Delphi/VCDS, delphi costs 20€ on aliexpress gives you engeneer grade live injector values. thats 90% an injector issue
Could eb a million things, torison value needs checking for starters, i have a feeling its that, the valves I highly doubt and if they are it needs whalnut blasting, on a diesel anything in the intske like brakes cleaner or fuel etc will make it diesel knock or possibly run away, get someone with vagcom and get the torsion value checked out, its bacially the injector timing for pd's, if its not right it can cause the issues your having and poor mpg and poor performance
Get a genuine Volkswagen fuel treatment part no G001790M3. Works wonders use it in dealer alot for best result put half in the tank half in the filter will run smokey but will clear out all deposits.
And this is one of the reason why I got rid of my golf just can't stand the problems with them as a simple job can turn into a 4 day problem I do perfer the psa 2.0 Diesel engines and nice cat Brad 👍
I think the new mount I put in isn't doing a very good job, also I could be wrong but every diesel engine I've seen has quite an amount of rock on it, thought it was normal? 🤷
The head of the 2.0 engines at my side 'ate' the injector seals every 3000 km. The mechanic said the head of the 2.0 engine and the area around where those seals should fit are elyptic instead of circular, so by vibration you will get those seals eaten in around 2,3k km... buy a new engine head :)
Sorry. But you drive it like a petrol car. Stretching the rmps, it's a diesel let it boost then change gear. They have low.down torqe. Not ment for Stretching it out 👍 love the channel
Your engine is cranking far far too slow. Check what the battery voltage drops to when cranking. If it’s dropping below 11.5 starter is pulling too much.
When was the clutch last done? Could very well be slipping causing the hesitation. Got worse since remap = more powaaaa baby. Weak start could be battery related or a parasitic draw. Compression test would be the first approach to rule that out and then reverse process it from there.
I had a beautiful cat, just like yours. She died from a hidden heart problem. Get your cat checked every 6 to 12 months, as they are masters of hiding problems. I couldn't because of COVID. Just telling you, so it doesn't happen to you, too.
What about getting a proper remap by a real tuner, instead of a dude coming to your house and just installing a standard file to your car as it was a smartphone downloading an app from the app store? At least get a second opinion on the tuning where your car is actually on a dyno. If it is a bad map, your car will run bad no matter how amazing the condition of the hardware is..
Apologies for the lack of content! Hope you guys enjoy still,
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We still here, Dude. 👍
I’ve just done the tandem on my A4 BRD if you need any pointers
Mate could you help me i have 2007 audi a3 sine 170 tdi model.keeps cutting out having to use easy start through air vent but only a week.is it crank shaft sensor as I seem to keep been told this but someone said gear box has to be taken out wtf
Do you ever check and answer you reply's Dude?
@@Chris11201 yes
Had a diesel golf for the last 5/6yrs, I fully recommended Comma Diesel Magic, it’s a diesel booster so if used with supermarket fuel, it’ll improve the cetane number of the fuel but it’s also a injector cleaner- just like Millers Diesel version but 50% cheaper! My diesels have always been run on this and does a great job of keeping the car smooth and even start ups are smoother! Try it out Brad, there’s a video to be made there on before and after 🤘🏼
I Have this issue with a bmn 170 issue hesitates fuel in filter housing mine also smokes on idle rarely... i have been told injectors or tandem pump.
Great vid. Just a note, on PD engines you just simply swap the filter, dont run them out of fuel. Dont even have to fill the filter just cycle the key a few times and start. Ive done a few while I was an apprentice, albeit on 1.9PDs and each time, just swapped the filter, cycled the key 2-3 times started and other than a few seconds longer crank, they always start up fine and thats it. If you run it out of fuel thats when they take ages to start again like it did for you :P
Edit: Im wondering, you keep saying the hesitation only happens when you change gear. Clutch pedal sensor maybe? What if you just unplug it, see if that does anything. They go bad pretty often, at least on 1.8s and 1.9s. Dont see why it could but after working on these cars I learned that sometimes stuff that you least expect it can cause the problems.
My mk5 golf 1.9pd had the same issue as you but not that bad on start ups but it still struggled to start sometimes and hesitation at 2500rpm only in 3rd gear. Never really diagnosed it as my flywheel went on it so scrapped it. I changed fuel filter but didn't help
Dizel diagnostic is pretty hard on something like that, I had a similar issue on my bmw 120d, hesitation went away after I repaired injectors but I was still left with hard start and lumpy idle on cold starts....after few months of changing pretty much everything, problem was glow plug modul, after changing that modul and all glow plugs car runs like a clock....Awsome content bro, there is not much ppl that are filming diesel stuff on youtube, keep it up 👍
Good on you changing the speed sensor. Mine broke on my mk4 and 2 days later my gearbox exploded so yeah would be wise to replace it as soon as it comes on.
In regards to your hesitation have you checked your torsion value? I recently discovered that my torsion value was out and resulted in adjusting the cam like 1mm and now my car runs like a dream
Possibly a faulty injector or maybe the injector wiring as that's sat in oil
Yh I’ve just but a new wiring loom for the injectors and hoping that sorts mine out rather than replace the injectors. Also got the map sensor and all that stuff.
have a b7 myself mate brd 170 kinda at same stage you are but i havnt mapped and not sure if i will ha everything i watched you do iv done myself. i will say this. the one best thing i did myself was gut the dpf. the first drive after was like a new car. turbo is so much happier with less back pressure and it got rid of all the lumpiness i was feeling under wot. enjoying the b7 content .
Did you have any smoke when putting foot down? And on very light smoke on idle? Mine does the same thing with gear changes but more so in mornings till its warmed up..
I had the exact same problem with stuttering when accelerating. Only when Ive got my foot to the floor. Replaced the filter, (also similar problem with being given the incorrect filter) dropped in a bottle of wynns diesel system cleaner for good measure and that fixed it. Around the same time that it started happening to me I struggled to get fuel during the fuel shortages and ended up running extremely low, so it clearly picked up a load of crap from the bottom of the tank.
U try turning traction control off ? For hesitation on 3k t 4K Rev range I ad same problem but traction control was reason for me
Could be injectors run the car vcds and check the values
I’m a simple man I see a video by Brad and I watch it
My man 👌
I have the BMN and had the same problem with the engine being difficult to start sometimes esp when cold. Eventually the starter died, replaced it with a golf mk6 one as apparently that revision has fixed what caused it to die and ever since no starting problems.
Hello mate just to ask what is this connector near to the filter
Had something similar on a pd 130. Turned out to be map sensor on intercooler. She would hesitate on boost between 1800 to 2000 rpm 👍
Change the tandem pump. All that oil is clogging the injectors . Had the same problem on my golf
Ye thats a know problem i would think its that too :)
Glad to see your back bro hope you and family are good
Thanks mate we're alright 👌
@@BWTV good man 👊
Also if it has a clutch pedal switch maybe worth replacing it (or checking to see if its dislodged/moved out of spec position) 1005 that and the injector loom as suggested in the other comment i left on the last video is where i would be looking next
Try unplugging the maf had same symptoms with mine all perfect now with a new one
I had the same problem on my A4, 2.0 TDI, BRD engine, after installing cruise control and checking the clutch switch it turned out to be an intermittent clutch pedal switch 👍 Audis kill the power when you press the clutch, if you have vcds you can check the clutch position on there, or just replace it, they’re cheap enough! Mine was getting stuck down momentarily when releasing the pedal 👍
Can u monitor boost
I wonder if the vains on turbo are moving freely
I have the same car and mine starts rough on a morning too, I have no hesitation though. Looking forward to see if you sort it as I'm lost as what to try next 😂
Same issue on mine, I'm changing the crankshaft/camshaft position sensor, not the same sensor in the video btw, this sensor actually sits in the cambelt housing, and the cable runs below the inlet manifold. It's a bit of a b%&*h to get out of the housing though. Yet to try and change mine again :D
For anyone else, all that parts removal is not necessary, yes it makes access alot easier but you only have to remove the 2 hoses on the oil cooler and face them up to actually get to it. I've done it twice now. As long as you've got a long enough Allen/hex key it's doable. Saves draining fluids. Just top up coolant after only loose 0.5 - 1 litre
Hi im planning on doing my crank sensor on my audi can i just move the oil filter housing and do it thanks
@@abdulbeany1894 I don't own this car anymore but I'm pretty sure you can't just move it, for me the pipes where in the way not the housing itself.
Hi, do you think is the same for a 2016 Audi A6 2.0 TDI Ultra , C7 model, CNHA engine model? I’ve pulled the code P0322 with the VCDS, car hesitating on acceleration and once or twice ended up with the glow plug sign flashing soon as it felt the engine will die, then went a bit limp mode, once stoped the engine and restart everything was fine, what I find weird is that it happens around 20-25 min after I start from cold but can happen at a larger interval as well. This started only 6 days ago on and off.
@@japanluvdid you find out what your issue is? Mine is doing the exact same thing
@@ae861616 yes, I did. Crankshaft sensor, my guess was right after all, ordered from Audi bit over £100 and changed with my local mechanic (had the repair manual but he found an quicker but not easier way to reach it, less things to remove) to access it, 1 hour job. Runs lovely again.
Have you changed the coolant temp sensor. I had that problem in my seat years ago and it was the temp sensor
Haven't but seems odd I have no other symptoms of the temp sensor
Nice fix, wow that sensor was deep down in the engine bay. Good you got it done. You should wear latex gloves as the old oily dirt and grime is bad for your skin. Great video, more of your cat.👊🏼👊🏼🤟
Replace the cam sensor! My sister has the BKD and the cam sensor was faulty! Also check the timing marks because if it is, will cause starting issues. I have e the 1.9tdi awx and I’m suffering starting delays..
Hi i have a audi a4 b7 2.0 tdi saloon is my crankshaft sensor in same location cant find it
How do you find it that low at front mate does it rub or had to change anything since lowering it?
Nope it's actually been okay, just don't go over small cushion bumps 😂
@@BWTV haha cheers mate
No one states what size Allen wrench y’all use for this ?
Is good idea check camshaft synchro in Vcds if is out of range +3 to -3 is bad if is not that login a car and check .
Sounds like a good idea to check this, Ill look into it 👍
In tank fuel pump maybe? Sounds fuel pressure related
You can adjust the timing on these engines. You will ideally want a vag com to do it. Adjusting this if its not right can fix rough idle, misfires, fuel consumption, excessive smoke. A lot of people over look this and end up spending £1000s on injectors and turbos to not even fix the problem
Your next car should be a 1.9 tdi
Not glow plugs?
Out of your golf you had or an audi S3 what do you prefer??
Golf is more go karty, S3 is more controlled but heavier, I think the golf was more fun but the power you can put down on the S3 is amazing
@@BWTV I had a lovely mk 4 golf 83000 miles on I put R32 mk 4 rimms on I loved it then I sold it and bought a mk 5 R32 I loved that aswell but through covid had to sell it to pay rent now saving for another one
My TDI audi 2.0 is swinging only start when u are using quick start
The black fuel, is fuel mixing with oil in the tandem pump. Could be the gasket, but it could also be the pump itself. With the hesitation issue only happening when schifting, my only guess would be the injectors not being able to adjust quickly enough. Its's too late now, but i would've filled up the Diesel filter with diesel cleaning fluid, before putting it in (i.e. Liqui Moly). That might help, especially with how oily the fuel is.
I think next up I will change the pump and gasket and see if theres any changes, if nothing works then I think my last resort is the injectors 😤 thanks for your advice 👌
Yay shout out thanks dude !
Your issue is the same as mine. It's an injector issue. The seal are gone/going and when sitting for some time the system loses pressure and the fuel drains back into the tank. This is why it will sometimes take more than one attempt to start. But then once up and running, you can turn the engine off and instantly back on again without issue, because the pressure is still there. Leave it overnight though, and the pressure will be gone. It's an injector out job.
Really informative, thanks 👌👌
@@BWTV also, can my remember which video you did it in. But the snub nose didn’t fit because it was in back to front. Simple fix
Update. This was completely wrong. What actually solved mine was a brand new starter. It would start on second attempt every time but that first attempt in the morning from cold it would intermittently decide to non start. Confirmed on the ramp from heat marks on the plastics/connections so replaced with Bosch starter and it starts first time every time now thankfully
Yesss lady, back at it again with the grind 🔥💯🐐keep it up boy 👌
🤙🤙
One very common fault people don't realise is that very plastic valve that sits on the fuel filter has to be changed as well that is the return feed it can trouble you. It's a good practice to do it as much as you're doing the filter. And yeah that is what you're going to be like dirty hands when working on diesel.
Make sure your negative cable on battery is clean and grounded and check after a drive if its hot in that area.
Have you tried getting the car carbon cleaned.
Not yet 🤙
By the sounds of it could be a tandem pump issue, can buy a gasket kit for these, common issue with the gaskets failing. Once the in tank lift pump gets the fuel the tandem pump takes over controlling the vacuum system and the fuel off the camshaft.
Good info thanks!
Try some sort of injector cleaner. Try using some dieselpurge. Also hotshot secret sells a diesel extreme additive that worked wonders on my 03 tdi .
get VCDS, it’s a must for these cars
could potentially be the starter motor on its way out? cold affecting it and normalizing after getting warmer
That's true had that on an old mondeo I had.. Till it went bang. That's a good possibility for the laggy stars..
hope it all gets sorted soon mate
Question for BWTV:Would you ever swap the corrado for an e31? and if yes y?
Yeah... Then I would sell the e31 and buy 2 corrados 😂
Seriously though they look great but I don't know a great deal about them 🤷
If u sort the issue, please let us know..
I did that on my mums car she’s got a Passat b6 2.0 tdi once the oil filter housing is out it’s not to bad to do but it’s at a awkward place where it’s behind the housing I made the mistake of not changing the oil filter housing gasket so had to do the job again 😓
Diesel purge is a must too! Revived my ALH
I'll look into this 🤙
im just wondering what kind of order of jobs youre following..
cause if you have power problem you should start from filters, battery, engine oil, fuel pump, glow plugs...
my little advice is dont listen too much the people on the groups, they would change the whole negine just for an engine esitation...
Tandem pump, I had same with my mk5 golf tdi
Try a diesel purge on the injector s
If you remove the oil pressure sensor it makes getting the turbo drain line much easier to remove and I reckon you broke the pressure sensor while undoing the turbo oil line.
Well done
Could be a faulty injector, needs a carbon clean or possibly the map needs adjusting.
I have the same code and the same starting problems, I am not looking forward to this job. I am fairly certain that, for me, the problem will be the crankshaft sensor because on the occasions it's not started it's just cranked until the battery runs flat and then done the same with the booster pack. It first happened at -5C so I thought, Ok it's a one off. It happened a few more times and then this fault code appeared. I also have a rough idle and noticeable lack of power. No hesistation as such, just a sort of lack of grunt that it used to have, which I would expect if it was struggling to read the crank position and time the injection correctly.
My fuel filter is a year old as I change it every service (I know this isn't particularly necessary). I just wanted to say for anyone watching this that it isn't necessary to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine dry, it's not going to spray fuel. Also, you don't need to pre-fill the new filter unless you decide to pour the contents of the old one into the new one to avoid wasting it. The PD engine is self bleeding and I've never had any starting issues after changing an oil filter and not pre-filling it.
Also, the reason it struggled to start after priming was because the lined between the filter and engine were dry so pre-filling the filter to avoid air in the lines was a wasted effort.
Did it do this before the map 🤔
Yea but not as drastically
@@BWTV I reackon it will be fueling related than
I got this problem only since the remapping the b7 170hp
I add this on my a3 sline tdi it was a bit of a pig to do
Mate check your fuel lift pump under back seat
Instead of keep cranking. Just flick the ignition key. Then crank again. Presto!
Its electrical problem. Google awsome gti in irlam. 👌👍
Your battery needs replacing and test the charging system..check the alternator
Might be with you're while to get the engine terra-cleaned.
Haven't heard of this but I'll look into it 👍
It usually costs around £100 and they come to your house to do it. I believe they run acid thru the injectors while it's running, it like a mini decoke.
So my man, check injectors with graphics Delphi/VCDS, delphi costs 20€ on aliexpress gives you engeneer grade live injector values. thats 90% an injector issue
Check your cam sensor because that also causes hard to start. I ddnt believe it until i changed it.
Also the oil in the fuel really isn't helping matters, it's either the tandem pump gasket or the tump its self, needs addressing asap
I'll get onto it 👍
did anyone else have trouble with a jumpy idle until the water temp passes 70degrees celsius?on a 2.0tdi brd 170hp a4b7?
yes same here
@@darkz4747 and did u fix it?or find out the problem?
Could eb a million things, torison value needs checking for starters, i have a feeling its that, the valves I highly doubt and if they are it needs whalnut blasting, on a diesel anything in the intske like brakes cleaner or fuel etc will make it diesel knock or possibly run away, get someone with vagcom and get the torsion value checked out, its bacially the injector timing for pd's, if its not right it can cause the issues your having and poor mpg and poor performance
Get a genuine Volkswagen fuel treatment part no G001790M3. Works wonders use it in dealer alot for best result put half in the tank half in the filter will run smokey but will clear out all deposits.
Okay great will see if I can give it a go 👌
Injector seals cause slow cold start. Very common
And this is one of the reason why I got rid of my golf just can't stand the problems with them as a simple job can turn into a 4 day problem I do perfer the psa 2.0 Diesel engines and nice cat Brad 👍
Non stop problems with cars 😂
Do you think the engine mounts need changing? Had a hell of a rock on it on startup 🤔🤷
I think the new mount I put in isn't doing a very good job, also I could be wrong but every diesel engine I've seen has quite an amount of rock on it, thought it was normal? 🤷
@@BWTV maybe your right then budd, just looked a little movey 🤣
When a diesel is ran out of fuel and then started up for the 1st time they do rock like that
Before change any sensors first check electric wires.. many people make this big mistake and after they got mad why problem is not solved.
The head of the 2.0 engines at my side 'ate' the injector seals every 3000 km. The mechanic said the head of the 2.0 engine and the area around where those seals should fit are elyptic instead of circular, so by vibration you will get those seals eaten in around 2,3k km... buy a new engine head :)
Oh no :(
Change the tandem pump. It’s clogging up the injectors
Two different types of cranksensor there's a white and a black one for pd170 replace it with a black
Tandem pump needs changing 100%
Did you ever get this sorted?
Thread order ? Colour
B6 vs b7 video 😁😁😁
Boost pressure sensor
100% injectors my a3 2.0tdi did the exact same
All your symptoms are leading to a piss poor map. Getting mapped in a carpark you cannot see any information like you can on the rollers
Sorry. But you drive it like a petrol car. Stretching the rmps, it's a diesel let it boost then change gear. They have low.down torqe. Not ment for Stretching it out 👍 love the channel
Your engine is cranking far far too slow. Check what the battery voltage drops to when cranking. If it’s dropping below 11.5 starter is pulling too much.
When was the clutch last done? Could very well be slipping causing the hesitation. Got worse since remap = more powaaaa baby.
Weak start could be battery related or a parasitic draw.
Compression test would be the first approach to rule that out and then reverse process it from there.
Compression test seems like a good idea, I think the tandem pump is next on my list and then injectors 🥺
@@BWTV Send it guy. It's all a learning curve
Clutch slip and hesitation...
@@RideToLive102 yep not uncommon while coming on boost with a weak clutch. Often misdiagnosed as 'hesitation'.
Tbf. Watching these videos it does sound like it could be a crap MAP
Check your timing under torsional values on vcds
Will do
It's definitely not dirty valves.
It's the map. Rubbish map.
Revert the car back to the standard map
$h1t map , happened with mine
Halo sar
I had a beautiful cat, just like yours.
She died from a hidden heart problem.
Get your cat checked every 6 to 12 months, as they are masters of hiding problems.
I couldn't because of COVID.
Just telling you, so it doesn't happen to you, too.
What about getting a proper remap by a real tuner, instead of a dude coming to your house and just installing a standard file to your car as it was a smartphone downloading an app from the app store? At least get a second opinion on the tuning where your car is actually on a dyno. If it is a bad map, your car will run bad no matter how amazing the condition of the hardware is..
Did mine in situ...not hard...done it a few times..Never ever had any Issues with starting after fuel filter change...thats in 30 years...