I was watching this video thinking, “come on, just get on with it!” Then I stepped into my own garage shop and looked around at the hundreds of details I mulled over before deciding on. Carry on! :)
You can set up 1 hydro pump to lift it 2 ways that I know of. 1 is to use 2 dump valves and the lightest end lifts first (typically the rear) and has to lift maxed out before the front starts to lift then you dump the rear to ride height. I used this setup on my bodydropped truck. 2 is you wire in a 3rd dump valve to block flow to the rear when you want to lift the front. You just have to lift the front or rear one at a time separately but you don’t have to lift the rear all the way so it conserves battery life.
I used to watch you on Facebook a cupple years ago and lost and forgot about it now I finally find it on TH-cam grate progress love the build cant wate to see it on the road I feel asleep it will never be done and if it is you will probably get bored with it then eather sell it or something
Dude. Looks great. #4 on the rack. But cut a rusty metal plate to cover the end of the wood. Bolt the plate to the end. Then weld up the #4 style links to the face of the plate. Love your channel man.
I think your Friend is onto something regarding the intake. Personally I absolutely adore the raw metallic look of the Bibbster & would love to see your metallic artistry follow through with the intake. 💪💪💪
On the rack , any scrap 1/4 plate you have to cover the wood end and rust it to match the wall . Using a couple of rusty screw bolts to fasten it . You could even write in weld the size on that part of the rack 👍
For tube rack, see if you like using more links in an upside down U. So you will have maybe even 4 places to fasten it and it can be as tall as needed, so you are not limited to a single ro/diameter of tube. in that configuration you can even screw it into the sides living front of the wood exposed.
Make sure your hydraulic pressure to the front is only as big as needed to raise the car. If you push fluid until front cylinders bottom out, then it will start compressing accumulator bladders. In turn leaving you without any cushioning. Also all cars that use hydraulic struts have accumulators placed close to the strut as packaging allows. As I think it might not work as well if it is separated by a very long run of tube/hose.
I don't think he's going to use accumulators because he's got springs/shocks as well on all 4 corners. These hydros would just be for changing the ride height and can stay stiff.
Strip the lags like you did the tin, and rust. 3 link hanger,add cut 1/2 link at bottom to hold lag, and 1/2 link at top between upright links to make taller.
3 links straight up in down. One link above the board, one bellow. Do that on all the boards, then you can take a wire with a clip and clip it to the chains so you have vertical support when you fill that thing up.
What about using connecting rods for the rack? Think that would be too big? Figure you could mount it using the piston side and cut it down to the size you need.
The accumulator/cylinder thing is very similar to the Citroen Hydromatic suspension from the early '60s. I suggest finding what they did to control the damping on those. Oh yeah, Option 2.
#6 - remove the beams and gussets and add a 10 degree bevel to them to pitch the fronts up a bit. It would at least minimize any rolling off while you figure out chain usage. #7 - 5 links, numbered 1-5 from left to right - 2-4 are horizontal, bolts through 2 and 4. Outer links 1 and 5 pitched up at 30-45 degrees like bull horns. If the wood isn't wide enough to support the middle 3 and 2 bolts, pitch 2 and 4 up a few degrees to move the bolts closer together.
Worked at a fab shop for buildings. They had all the rails at an angle. Maybe use A piece of angle iron 6x1.75x.25 x 0’-3.5” with the 6” leg across the top of the wood. Then some of that chain making an angle along the 6” leg then vertical on the 1.75 leg. You could then mount it w/ bolts on each side of the vertical chain. If you have other thickness of angle iron around just remember to add that to the 1.5 that your wood is so that the iron will end at the bottom of the wood. Just my 2 cents worth.
5, concave the shelves and router all the sharp corners off. The tubing would be easy to roll off/grab. You could cover the sides with plates for support if needed and add designs into the plate and patina it. No matter what you do it'll be awesome.
I watched the video this morning (2-21) saw you working on the steel rack I think a solid piece of chain from the top to the bottom shelf (the rusty chain with used fasteners one on each side). The only downside is you would have to remove the material from the end
What about putting a U bolt or D bolt, whatever they call em, to the fronts of the horizontal wood pieces. Then running chain from the bottom to the top of each section. The chain shares each bolt. With the bottom of the chain being attached to the bolt and the top uses a hook so you can undo it when you need to get a piece of tubing. Then you can stack each section as high as you want.
Hey Kyle. Watched this one during my lunchbreak and 0:48 ... nope. Never disappointed!👊 Of the ones presented, I like idea #3. The old railroad spikes would look cool if you could get ahold of some, but I like the idea of using the old chain links and rusty lag screws. I liked the thought of you making some carbon fiber parts for the Bibbster when you talked about it a while back, but honestly all the aluminum is where it's at, man! I'm diggin' it. I could see you making an aluminum cover for that pump reservoir or possibly making your own reservoir. I hope to make it back to PITS this year. If so, I will be sure to say hello. Have a great weekend, brother!
As somebody who has worked with wood alot, I need to mention that end grain does not hold fasteners, like the lag screws you are using, very well or for very long. It won't take much to pull them out of their holes or crack/split the wood block they are set in. I like your rack for the tubing, but think you need to mount any retainers to the sides of those blocks, and as far back from the end as possible. Maybe a longer piece of chain that bolts the end links through the wood a few inches back and wraps around the front with a link or 2 sticking up over the top.
I think the first option with just one or two more links added to the top for more height so the tube dont over flow off and a center one to the bottom for mounting
What did you end up using in the end for the hydraulic pump / slow down setup? In a similar situation where I'd like to use hydraulics to adjust ride height but two full size pumps are overkill for my needs. My project uses hydraulic cylinders acting as a push rods to connect the cantilever to the knuckle, front and back(irs).
What is up MrKVoss. Man thanx for the short motivation portion on your video. That is highly appreciated. Then for your question, how about option 4 ??? Anyways, keep them video's coming. Peace out. 🇿🇦
Bend re bar 180° and weld a peice of flat stock across the end and rust it drill some mounting holes and boom rustic easy and fits the barn shop theme....
What if you built the intake in the same "boxy" sharp edge shape of the valve covers, maybe add some metal off the sides to make it appear like the valve covers and intake are all one peice. I got an image in my head but its hard to put into words.
I think i would have just angled the wood rack down towards the wall so the tubing naturally wants to roll back instead of having to worry about it rolling off. But if i went with chain i would go with the two link version you had. Nothing wrong with making it look cool but growing up working on my friends farms i noticed their fathers or grand dads most simplistic solutions to issues like this to be the most satisfying to learn from. That just comes from being taught the kiss method from my father who was a navy man "keep it simple stupid".
I would make an end cap with sheet metal. Bolt that on or make it to where it has a tight fit or epoxy it. Treat it so it has that weathered look. Then weld the chain link to it.
I was watching this video thinking, “come on, just get on with it!” Then I stepped into my own garage shop and looked around at the hundreds of details I mulled over before deciding on. Carry on! :)
Number 2 is the most practical of the options presented.
#2 for The End Cap and ALL Metal on The Bibster. Have a Blessed Wknd Brother.
You can set up 1 hydro pump to lift it 2 ways that I know of. 1 is to use 2 dump valves and the lightest end lifts first (typically the rear) and has to lift maxed out before the front starts to lift then you dump the rear to ride height. I used this setup on my bodydropped truck. 2 is you wire in a 3rd dump valve to block flow to the rear when you want to lift the front. You just have to lift the front or rear one at a time separately but you don’t have to lift the rear all the way so it conserves battery life.
Option 4. Another great video 👍👍🇨🇱
Always the best way to start a Friday! Good morning!
I used to watch you on Facebook a cupple years ago and lost and forgot about it now I finally find it on TH-cam grate progress love the build cant wate to see it on the road I feel asleep it will never be done and if it is you will probably get bored with it then eather sell it or something
Metal Supermarkets is awesome especially for the guy who does not have a 30' trailer, dually and needs to have it cut down for pick-up. Great people.
I instantly thought about the Tig/Mig torch holder you fabricated. Instead of bolts the chain would be awesome. Great content.
Dude. Looks great. #4 on the rack. But cut a rusty metal plate to cover the end of the wood. Bolt the plate to the end. Then weld up the #4 style links to the face of the plate. Love your channel man.
I love the rack. I was thinking some sort of metal end cap and rust it to match the wall
Love it.....valve cover looks great...simple but 'on point'...
Option 1 looks nice and stable. Once a row of pipe is against it the next row on top won't roll off.
I think your Friend is onto something regarding the intake. Personally I absolutely adore the raw metallic look of the Bibbster & would love to see your metallic artistry follow through with the intake. 💪💪💪
On the rack , any scrap 1/4 plate you have to cover the wood end and rust it to match the wall . Using a couple of rusty screw bolts to fasten it . You could even write in weld the size on that part of the rack 👍
I think #2 would work great and I think the carbon intake would make it pop and look amazing
All the above. A random combination would look super cool
For tube rack, see if you like using more links in an upside down U. So you will have maybe even 4 places to fasten it and it can be as tall as needed, so you are not limited to a single ro/diameter of tube. in that configuration you can even screw it into the sides living front of the wood exposed.
Make sure your hydraulic pressure to the front is only as big as needed to raise the car. If you push fluid until front cylinders bottom out, then it will start compressing accumulator bladders. In turn leaving you without any cushioning. Also all cars that use hydraulic struts have accumulators placed close to the strut as packaging allows. As I think it might not work as well if it is separated by a very long run of tube/hose.
I don't think he's going to use accumulators because he's got springs/shocks as well on all 4 corners. These hydros would just be for changing the ride height and can stay stiff.
Strip the lags like you did the tin, and rust. 3 link hanger,add cut 1/2 link at bottom to hold lag, and 1/2 link at top between upright links to make taller.
3 links straight up in down. One link above the board, one bellow. Do that on all the boards, then you can take a wire with a clip and clip it to the chains so you have vertical support when you fill that thing up.
#3 for the rack
The pump I think you're looking for are used on box trucks for lift gates on the back single feed line and gravity drain
I think I like option 3 best or maybe some rusty rebar bent into an upside down "U" but bent at right angles rather than curved if that makes sense
Looking badass! Really love the progress.
What about using connecting rods for the rack? Think that would be too big? Figure you could mount it using the piston side and cut it down to the size you need.
Cut a slight angle on the back end and reattach so it has a slight uphill slant 👌
I would use railroad spikes, mount them so they look like they're driven in at a 45 degree angle
Looks good , what about cut down bike chain sprockets or any metal chain sprocket or gear
The accumulator/cylinder thing is very similar to the Citroen Hydromatic suspension from the early '60s. I suggest finding what they did to control the damping on those.
Oh yeah, Option 2.
#6 - remove the beams and gussets and add a 10 degree bevel to them to pitch the fronts up a bit.
It would at least minimize any rolling off while you figure out chain usage.
#7 - 5 links, numbered 1-5 from left to right - 2-4 are horizontal, bolts through 2 and 4. Outer links 1 and 5 pitched up at 30-45 degrees like bull horns. If the wood isn't wide enough to support the middle 3 and 2 bolts, pitch 2 and 4 up a few degrees to move the bolts closer together.
Worked at a fab shop for buildings. They had all the rails at an angle. Maybe use A piece of angle iron 6x1.75x.25 x 0’-3.5” with the 6” leg across the top of the wood. Then some of that chain making an angle along the 6” leg then vertical on the 1.75 leg. You could then mount it w/ bolts on each side of the vertical chain. If you have other thickness of angle iron around just remember to add that to the 1.5 that your wood is so that the iron will end at the bottom of the wood. Just my 2 cents worth.
5, concave the shelves and router all the sharp corners off. The tubing would be easy to roll off/grab. You could cover the sides with plates for support if needed and add designs into the plate and patina it. No matter what you do it'll be awesome.
Railroad ties with a few links of chain holding it would look pretty cool
I watched the video this morning (2-21) saw you working on the steel rack I think a solid piece of chain from the top to the bottom shelf (the rusty chain with used fasteners one on each side). The only downside is you would have to remove the material from the end
Option 2 but have the link angled in so if the tube does shift it will need more force to ride up the lip.
Option #3 would look good
I liked option 3. Also a sliding rag top would be sweet for the roof.
I have looked at those
So I really wanna get our cars lined up together when yours is ready Kyle if you're down! Just hangout and grab some sweet pics together.
wouldnt be against that
What about putting a U bolt or D bolt, whatever they call em, to the fronts of the horizontal wood pieces. Then running chain from the bottom to the top of each section. The chain shares each bolt. With the bottom of the chain being attached to the bolt and the top uses a hook so you can undo it when you need to get a piece of tubing. Then you can stack each section as high as you want.
Some second hand wrought iron from a gate you could chop up has a rustic and durable look your going for, or like old barn fitting.
Hey Kyle. Watched this one during my lunchbreak and 0:48 ... nope. Never disappointed!👊 Of the ones presented, I like idea #3. The old railroad spikes would look cool if you could get ahold of some, but I like the idea of using the old chain links and rusty lag screws. I liked the thought of you making some carbon fiber parts for the Bibbster when you talked about it a while back, but honestly all the aluminum is where it's at, man! I'm diggin' it. I could see you making an aluminum cover for that pump reservoir or possibly making your own reservoir. I hope to make it back to PITS this year. If so, I will be sure to say hello. Have a great weekend, brother!
I like idea 2.
Do you have a flatbed ore flatbed? What about use the tie-down's from that and use
As somebody who has worked with wood alot, I need to mention that end grain does not hold fasteners, like the lag screws you are using, very well or for very long. It won't take much to pull them out of their holes or crack/split the wood block they are set in. I like your rack for the tubing, but think you need to mount any retainers to the sides of those blocks, and as far back from the end as possible. Maybe a longer piece of chain that bolts the end links through the wood a few inches back and wraps around the front with a link or 2 sticking up over the top.
For your ends, What about a D-ring, juat welded "up"? It would look like a buckle almost.
#2 looks good
man im so glad i found your channel again youtube unsubed me again
this thing looks nuts
I think the first option with just one or two more links added to the top for more height so the tube dont over flow off and a center one to the bottom for mounting
Timing chain gears?
I believe Idea #1 would be best. Allows you to store a larger quantity, or larger diameter tubing.
Railroad spikes look great with hardwood. Not really hotrodish but they are functional.
Make a t with both links with the center leg flipped up. 2 links down for mounting a 1 up for holding the tube.
What did you end up using in the end for the hydraulic pump / slow down setup? In a similar situation where I'd like to use hydraulics to adjust ride height but two full size pumps are overkill for my needs. My project uses hydraulic cylinders acting as a push rods to connect the cantilever to the knuckle, front and back(irs).
I have a standard style dump bed pump that does all four corners
What about using motorcycle sprockets for the end of the shelf?
Idea number 2,5. Three links, one up, one down, one flat screwed into the log.
I vote #3 for the metal storage rack
What is up MrKVoss. Man thanx for the short motivation portion on your video. That is highly appreciated. Then for your question, how about option 4 ???
Anyways, keep them video's coming. Peace out. 🇿🇦
For the intake an aluminum upper with the bead rolls to match the interior would would be awesome.
Did that hydraulic pump end up working well for you? I have the same needs and don't want air.
3. I three looks the best but maybe see if you can find some larger links.
I vote 4. Have 2 more links under the link you mount so they are hanging down past the wood.
idea 4 looks good
Motorcycle or bike sprockets for the rack with a slight bend already have mounting holes
Maybe some rusty horseshoes with nails or spikes welded to the backside, then pre-drill some smaller holes in the wood and pound them in.
#5 Use some con rods for the rack stops. Small two stroke from a moped etc would be the right size.
Bend re bar 180° and weld a peice of flat stock across the end and rust it drill some mounting holes and boom rustic easy and fits the barn shop theme....
Getter done son!
I would think that if you built them with a back angle the tubes would automatically roll to the back?
Which tig machine are you using in the shop ?
I think some forged carb inserts would be a stylish touch
What if you built the intake in the same "boxy" sharp edge shape of the valve covers, maybe add some metal off the sides to make it appear like the valve covers and intake are all one peice. I got an image in my head but its hard to put into words.
Are these the wheels your going to keep on the bibster or they just for mockup?
My son and I vote for #4. I think it would be great if you could use square head lag bolts.
I think i would have just angled the wood rack down towards the wall so the tubing naturally wants to roll back instead of having to worry about it rolling off. But if i went with chain i would go with the two link version you had. Nothing wrong with making it look cool but growing up working on my friends farms i noticed their fathers or grand dads most simplistic solutions to issues like this to be the most satisfying to learn from. That just comes from being taught the kiss method from my father who was a navy man "keep it simple stupid".
You are the best ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Awesome channel thank you
I like #3 with a piece of number 4 rebar spanning the two links
What type of band saw is that?
How about some connecting rods for the rack
You could use a power steering pump as the hydraulic pump.
I like the 2 links but hold them on with fence staples.
Cut on CNC brass knuckles flat 3/16 to 1/4. # 3 takes it for me
#3 seems like it would hold the steel the best
#5 just take some plate and cut out some shapes and screw it to the wood. You can also rust it to match the wall and tie everything in.
Steel Rack, Very simple, just mount the horizontal wood going downhill towards the wall.
You should make an adjustable stand off so you can adjust the racks to hold more or less material
Option 1 for the top, 2 for the middle and 4 for the bottom
I would make an end cap with sheet metal. Bolt that on or make it to where it has a tight fit or epoxy it. Treat it so it has that weathered look. Then weld the chain link to it.
Why do you only tig weld ?
what about the mount end of a old leaf spring
I think the ends of a leif spring with the scroll facing out
No.# 2 , use what you have .😁👍
Could always forge something cool for ends of your steel rack.
Plasma Cut some Fab Forum logos and bolt it to the pieces of wood 😎
Some rail road nails might be a cool idea
Use a wrench as the retainer, bolted through boxed end so it rotates
#5 wrap the chain all the way around the end or wrap some thick rope around the ends like you would see on a boat dock
Use the 3 link setup!
if you were to sell the bibbster (not saying you are) but if hypothetically you would, how much would it sell for?
How about an aluminum carbon weave intake cover?