I went from 0 knowledge to tiling an entire main bathroom with large format tiles and a window in the shower area, just by watching many, many of these videos over the course of two years. It's been a year since I tiled the bathroom and no tiles have fallen, no water dripping in my living-room, all thanks to Sal! Thank You so much.
Man I always do this back buttering business, even on subway tile backsplash. I don't care if it takes longer I rather take my time than get a call back from the customer. The only call backs I want to have is to come do more work for them. On a side note watching Sals videos has help me be a better installer. I watched and researched the installation materials he uses and man let me tell you, the pro installation materials do make a difference. I went from custom which you can find at Home Depot to Mapei and now I'm using laticrete. I have to make special trips to get it but its worth it. Next in my list Is becoming a member of the tile contractor something something
As far as back buttering goes, it is always advantageous, but not absolutely necessary. The benefits are better bond because the mortar gets "keyed" into the tile and substrate, however on flat backed tiles with proper toweling the proper coverage will be achieved and is sufficient to garentee a proper install. Do I back butter? yes most of the time, but not always, usually don't back butter smaller tiles. If tiles have deep patterns on the back, then yes, fill those voids then set the tile. A tile that has been back buttered will not achieve proper coverage and transfer of thinset if it is set into a bed of mortar that has not been properly applied, however the mortar that does transfer to the tile will achueve a tenacious bond, which is good but the part of the tile that is left unsupported will be prone to failure. Coverage by back buttering is not equal to coverage by transfer of the bond coat.
i taught myself how to tile (now self employed) in spain where its dry and hot. i always soak my tiles in water for a few mins before hand and lightly wet the surface area to be tiled. i apply the directional method straight on the tile giving 100 % coverage with a 1/4'' notch trowel. dont know why i did it this way, just seemed the most logical for maximum adhesion. never had a lifted tile or problems afterwards. glad i saw this vid as it showed me i'm pretty much doing it right. thanks.
Thank you very much for the vids!! I am doing a walk in shower and have about 8 hours of youtube vids under my belt, and most are yours Sal!! Thanks again...and keep up the good work!
Great video guys! I'm glad that you explain the reasons for the techniques. Nobody ever does that, they simply tell you what to do without explaining why or demonstrating the reasons not to. It was a real education. Thank you!
Thank you for your clear and well presented tutorial. God's blessings always guys. I'm a 70 year old woman and I'm going to lay them two or three per day. Once again thanks.
It would have been nice to see the progression include directional troweling without back buttering. I heard some advice to make swirls in the thinset when applying to the ceiling to form vacuum pockets to hold the tile up. When I actually did my ceiling I did straight lines, back buttered with straight lines and had no problem at all with the thinset holding the weight of the tile. I think it's actually a lot easier to hold the tiles up than people expect as long as you have good coverage and a good mix of thinset.
I really enjoyed the way you formatted this instructional video about the "dos and don'ts" , I am not in this field of work , however I am doing a tile project; so I found your video extremely helpful and educational, which I appreciate. So thank you and keep the videos comin' boys !
Hi Mr. Diblasi, I just watched some of your videos the other day. I have been watching Home Repair for a while. I became a DIY person after paying professionals to do the work. I have plenty of loose floor tiles with no butter what so ever. People need to watch these videos before paying someone to do the work.
This eliminates a lot of trowel and error! Sorry, I had to. I like to have a moist towel over my mud bucket. The thinset I use seems to dry pretty fast. So I just make small batches and do the same with grout. I'll take any advice. I've laid maybe a total of 4,000sq feet and I'm still learning. Professionals like these guys make it look easy. Tile experts and drywall pros, hats off from the painters and finishers
Thanks...one of the most informative on proper installation without the wild background music that only distracts me (as I've seen in other DIY'ers video).
Thanks guys. I think your basic point to people watching is that you want good coverage of thinset on your tile and surface to avoid voids behind the tile. If in doubt, butter the backside of the tile before installing over the troweled thinset on your surface. In actual installation situations, going much beyond that can create much squeeze out of thinset in your grout joints, particularly the tighter your joints are, which is pain and unnecessary. Sal, do you remember the days before Hardibacker of lath, scratch and brown coat walls? An old tile setter once taught me to cut baking soda into my mud on my board right before floating. It certainly made the mud float easier, but you didn't want to leave it on your skin very long!
Floating is a dying art, in most of the country, except a few places where it is alive and well. recently there has been some renewed interest in learning how to do it by many installers.
Interesting. I would have thought mud showers would have long since become a thing of the past. The alternative options today when installed right are certainly more cost effective and probably every bit as good as floated walls, maybe better? You do nice work, Sal. I saw you floating a shower floor in a video and was reminded of a story you may get a kick out of. In 1977, I was a lot younger than I am now and quite by chance took a summer job as a helper at a tile company in Abilene, Texas. That turned out to be one of those life direction altering events that happens sometimes. One of my first times to actually go out on a job, I went with a gruff, older guy to help him dry pack a shower floor. We pulled the mud pan off the truck and he quickly told me ratios of portland to sand and said to mix it "dry", then went into the house. I did the best I could with the information I had and remember thinking I had nailed it. When he came back out to get the mud, he started yelling that it was too wet, started stomping around, cussing, kicking buckets, etc. After I had heard enough, I blurted out, "Alright, what do I have to do to fix it, do I start over or what?" That kind of stopped him in his tracks. He grabbed the shovel, threw some dry sand and portland on the pile, and chopped through it a couple of times with the hoe. Then he took a handful of the mix, squeezed it tightly, showed it to me and quietly said, "If you squeeze it and can see water, it's too wet. It only needs to be damp enough to set up the portland." That guy taught me to set tile, install plastic laminate and lay wood flooring and helped set me on a course to making a living working with my hands in the years that followed. And he never raised his voice with me again!
Sal, love your videos sir. Invaluable information for someone looking to install floor tile for the first time. Think I've watched about 30 of your videos in the last couple weeks.
Congrats both guys. great video! Do not forget to use margin trowel and wet sponge after each tile is back buttered and properly taped with rubber mallet during your installation.
This video was great... A lot of remodels I've done show questionable and lazy work. On the other hand I've seen some really clever work. Backbutter and take your time. Anti-lippage products help a ton
Thanks guys, I used this technique around the house and it definitely gives solid results - I had to change some of my work and it was so hard to take off my dried tiles, it was ripping drywall off.
Good video bud , make sure everyone knows your trowel size is just as important to get the most coverage. I️ wouldn’t use this size trowel on a tile bigger then a 12x12, it’s important to collapse the air gaps by moving the tile side to size ATLEAST and inch or two before it’s in its final placement. Keep the videos coming
Hi Sal, I completely agree with blobbing the tile this way on the floor. On the walls, I do not see it as much as blobbing the back (approx. 12 blobs per 12 by 24 inch tile) of the tile is a commonly used method in large union jobs throughout my area in Toronto, Canada. The wall is skimmed first then the tile is skimmed and blobbed...the finish does give 90percent coverage or more and allows for more play when installing large rectified tile.
Spot bonding is something to be avoided, The TCNA handbook has only two methods for spot bonding which requires the use of specialized epoxy mortars is to be used in dry areas only, interior only and As stated in the handbook "Will not withstand impact." Look them up. Best to not use this method at all and there is no instance where it is approved for floors.
YOU GUYS ARE A GREAT TEAM! I think your video was very well put together,. And it was easy to understand , I'm new to tile install,. But I really think after seeing you guys , I think I'll do a much better job,. and I won't use my spatula next time. Thanks guys !
Thank You So Much for your videos Sal. You're Awesome! If you have time, Could you do a video on plank tiles please? Like the tile planks that look like wood.
Great video. I learned a lot, actually I understand why some of my kitchen floor tile is cracked. The method the installer used was a swirly pattern method. Next time I'm doing it myself! ...with the help of these videos of course! Thank you!
Happy New Year Gentlemen! Sal!!! You're channel is so educational AND your video's have an easy to follow progression. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
keep in mind, when he did the wrong (small) trowel test, he was using a completely flat and perfect surface. On real life uneven and rough substrates it would be way worse, so really good advice.
Hi, Guys! I enjoy your videos, BUT I watched your video on using Schluters All Set, and as you instructed, followed the directions on the bag exactly. 6.5 its qtr to one 50lb bag. I timed everything to the second. It was as thick as fudge! (I have no previous experience, so thought OK, this is what the experts, you, said to do. First, I burned up my heavy duty hammer drill. One bucket ruined.Next, after buying a heavy mud mixer, I tried again, using your "do it exactly this way" instructions. Still very thick, but went ahead and installed the Schluter membrane. Very difficult with lousy end results. So next, I called Schluter customer service-great people by the way-and told them my story. Their rep said add another quart of water. I next called the local Schluter rep and he agreed. So off we went, with great results! So, what gives?
Can't really say, I have used Schluter thinset countless times, mixed it according to the instructions every time and had no issues with it at all. Calling Schluter was the right move. I am a consumer just like you, I buy it and use it as instructed. I have had issues with thinset periodically, from several manufacturers, it is rare but it does happen, and when it does happen I dump the thinset and move on, I tell the manufacturer what happened and they always try to make it right by supplying replacement product. Part of being a contractor is dealing with issues, finding a solution and moving forward. If you had had more experience, you would have realized you needed to add more water, that is also part of the whole process, make adjustments where needed. In that video, you saw exactly what i did, and what the outcome was, you had a different end result, the solution was simple, but because you had no past experience , you did not know how to resolve it, now you do, you are now one step closer to becoming a better installer.
I'm looking at a big or All Set right now and the directions clearly state to use 7.5-8.5 qts for setting membrane and 5.5-6.5 qts for setting tile... Maybe it changed in the last 3 years
would have liked to see a direct comparison of directional vs non-directional trowling. Since only the directional was back buttered, it's hard to know how much the air pocket theory for non-directional trowling actually affects coverage?
Sal DiBlasi I just watched the video. In the demonstration of non-directional trowling, the installer doesn't move the tile side to side AT ALL! Intentionally leaving uncollapsed ridges to prove a point doesn't prove a theory. Apples to Oranges. I just want to see a honest comparison.
Sal DiBlasi That one was a little better, but the installer was cleary applying more pressure to the tile with directional trowling, which is what collapsed the ridges. In the example of non-directional trowling, he deliberately moved the tile with very little downward pressure. You can see a clear difference in the amount of pressure on his fingertips, again to prove the theory. I assume that an honest comparison would have a VERY small difference in coverage. Like 2% maybe?
What can I say, it seems that you just don't want to believe it no matter what. What could be the possible benefit to discouraging one method over another for no apparent reason. These are recommendations from well respected entities, the NTCA is one of them and I am a member. They are trying to promote better coverage for better installs, this can only be a good thing for the industry.
Amateur here, DIYer: 1. Backbutter the tile with lines, apply to a thin smooth coat of mud on the substrate... if it achieves the same good coverage this is okay, right? 2. (For a repair job replacing small ceramic tiles on a wall) should I apply the tile adhesive the same way thinset should be applied? With 100% coverage? Thanks.
Great informative video. Not to be mean, but just saying...at time 13:13 I disagree with the statement "all the ridges were collapsed." Because, it's quite obvious, all of them were not.
On Slab on Grade, there is usually a mortar that mason laiid onto the concrete to receive the tile. This usually make an overall thickness of 50mm. that is used to concealed aluminium door frame which is usually 45-50mm high. Do you have any advice on that?
I had my cousin do my bathroom floors a company that he was starting up there was a quarter to 0% of backing on the subfloor under the back of board he left half inch gaps did swirls the mortar for the towels had less than 10% contact a nightmare I'm having to repair this all by myself now I had and redo my entire home everything in the flooring has to be replaced nothing was done correct he took me for a lot of money because I did not know thank you for your knowledge he was to replace subfloor new from water damage there is a 3 by 4 Square whole subfloor not screwed into four by four flooring
Can you confirm the time gap between casting of floor on grade slab and laying of tiles. I understand there is a need to wait for the concrete to cure using say ponding method.
This would be a lot more convincing if you did directional troweling WITHOUT back buttering, because that seemed to be the bigger difference. You changed 2 variables at once.
It does seem like if it's been back buttered like that, it could have practically have been just placed on the bare board, and it would have still shown complete coverage after pulling it back up to demonstrate the coverage.
hello sal thank you both for the great video and tips. I was looking through your videos because I was trying to find one where you can teach us what to do when floors are really uneven. if you ever come across a nasty uneven floor like I did please share with us what your procedures are. thank you sal keep the vids coming
Jose Miranda if the subfloor is way off level it might be best to tear up everything and inspect the joists. Here in Pittsburgh we've seen many joists hacked through and lead to structural problems. One recommendation would be to reconfigure the plumbing , sister new joists to the old ones and try to get the new subfloor as level as possible. Obviously follow your local building codes 👍
Jose Miranda very good work i'm can this work.عمل جيد وممتاز وانا اعمل فى مصر بنفس التقنية الحديثة لهذا العمل وعالج مشاكل كثيرة فى العمل واتمنى ان اعمل معكم.او نعمل سويا.
can you tell me what kind of tile to use on a kitchen floor also if using hardbacker and what thinset should be used to set the backer board and what kind of thinset should be used to lay the tile. Thanks, Ha we won this past weekend great game
Mate, with regards of water getting behind the wall tiles, it should not be getting behind, if you tile your floor first and grout it mapie ultra colour which the water does not get though, then you have no gaps. Then do your walls and leave a 3 mm gap of the floor and fill it with silicone then it should not wick up. If do your walls first and if it gets burred in the screed then it will wick up, that's a big no no. I always waterproof my floor substrate and walls and waterproof the top of the screed as well, always use grouts which the the water does not get though ie. Mapie, kerakoll. If you do that you won't ever have any problems.
Countless failed installs prove you wrong. Water will always find its way under the tile over time in a wet area, end of story. You are fooling yourself if you think otherwise.
I have learned a lot from you two guys and really appreciate the tips and feedback you give We hired a pro (so we thought talked a good game ) Everything he did was correct accordingg to the videos that I have seen from both of you It seems he suddenly went stupid one day . Before we know it he has thinset on surface of the natural stone floor tile and all over the surface of the ceramic tile on the wall. We are concerned about getting this removed as it has been on there for a couple of days Can you guys do a video of how to remove excess thinset from the surface of different types of tile ? In the meantime can you tell me the best method to remove all of this thinset with the least amount of damage. This is not grout but actual thinset Any help or suggestions would be a big welcome He says he can scrap it right up I am not so sure
He is nearly done . My concern is he may use something that will ruin the tile. In our area these guys just go out of business and open up under a different name if they get into a botch job. Contracts hold very little water I just want to make sure he uses the right product to clean and not make matters worse Thanks fro the reply
On the stone you need to be very careful not to use a cleaner that will etch the stone, on the ceramic not as big a problem. Sometimes a razor will do the job, just be careful not to scratch the tile.
Hey! I'm going to install some marble backplash in my kitchen this week but i have a hard time deciding on what type of tinset to use. could you please recoment one?
A lot of backsplashes are installed with a mastic, especially in dry areas. (To help hold the weight of the tile). however if you’re installing marble - it’s best probably to go with a thinset (white thinset most likely, if you’ve got a specific marble) It depends what your material and layout will be. If you are dealing with sheet-goods or a marble mosaic, then that can change your needs as well. Marble is easy to scratch and is very porous, don’t forget to *Not* use a marker while making your cuts. Be mindful of your trowel size before “buttering” - you don’t want too thick of a thinset bed if you’re dealing with smaller tiles.
Here is one specific to Schluter thinset, however the directions are on every bag of thinset no matter the brand. th-cam.com/video/7N2k1RnmeJI/w-d-xo.html
Home Repair Tutor, Actually yes, I've seen different types of thin set at the store, does really make a big difference, if you don't use exactly the one recommended by the store?
if installing a product, e.g. DITRA, use what the manufacturer recommends. As an example, DITRA calls for modified thin-set when adhering it to a wood subfloor. So you'd want to use a modified thin-set for that. Sal has a great video on this installation. Sal and I plan to do more videos on thin-set options down the road. I'd never go with what the store people tell me to use over what the manufacturer recommends.
Love your vids sal and appreciate you sharing your knowledge.Quick question for since I can’t seem to find it,when thin set starts to stiffen in bucket can I just add more water and carryover to next day to keep from setting or does thinset lose its strength if u keep remixing with water to carry out longevity?Been using same mix for two days adding water at night and mixing before bed as well as in morning.Just running a test to see how long I can make last.Maybe a dumb question but curious on your thoughts.
Never add water to soften it after initial mix and slake. Pot life varies but most are between 2 and 4 hours. You can remix a couple of times without adding water to soften it, but that is it. After that it is trash.
1 thing that's not addressed on here is exactly how thick do you apply the thinset? The first 3 tiles I installed, I think I used too much but when pulling the notched trowel across the wall and the tile it almost seemed like way too much thinset. So should it just be thick enough to fill the voids on the tile or should it be 1/4, 1/2 inch thick. In my life I've done everything you can imagine that has to do with labor, but installing tile is the one thing that just completely terrifies me. But, I've got the supplies, and I've watched countless videos. I'm not going to let this task beat me. Just tough trying to do it at the age of 66 with only 1 working shoulder. Thanks Sal and Jeff for all of your help.
Depends on the type of thinset, the key is coverage, 80% in a dry area, 95% in a wet or exposed area or for natural stone. Substrate preparation is also important, a flat surface will require less adhesive and be much easier to work on. So use the correct trowel and use directional troweling with proper technique.
From what I've seen and what little I've done, the notches in the trowel determine how much thinset gets left in there. Your job is to put enough down first that you get nice even ridges with no gaps when you notch it, and then you have to hold the notched trowel at a 45 degree angle. The notches to the rest. I had a similar experience to yours on my first tile job. I ended up using far too much thinset because I started out too thick because I was holding the trowel at too steep and angle. I'm living and hopefully learning.
@@SalDiBlasi thank you ,it's just I get access to extra thinset and was thinking what else can I use it for instead of buying cement and sand like patching my cracked driveway,making a small mould for crafts etc
@@vidiaramheerai2979 Thinset does not really work well for that stuff, it is an adhesive so it is sticky and messy, it can not be built up to any degree beyond what it is designed for, bond coat depth, without cracking and shrinking.
I’m going to til a back splash in my kitchen soon. I’ll be applying these “beveled rectangular subway tiles” and bcs they are beveled , they have a sort of depression on the back of them. So, my question is about applying the thinset. I would suspect that you will advise me to “back butter “ them to fill in the back to make it even for applying but thing is they’re only 3” x 6” in dimension, kinda small so for that size would back buttering still be recommended..? Thank You
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I went from 0 knowledge to tiling an entire main bathroom with large format tiles and a window in the shower area, just by watching many, many of these videos over the course of two years. It's been a year since I tiled the bathroom and no tiles have fallen, no water dripping in my living-room, all thanks to Sal! Thank You so much.
😊👍
Man I always do this back buttering business, even on subway tile backsplash. I don't care if it takes longer I rather take my time than get a call back from the customer. The only call backs I want to have is to come do more work for them. On a side note watching Sals videos has help me be a better installer. I watched and researched the installation materials he uses and man let me tell you, the pro installation materials do make a difference. I went from custom which you can find at Home Depot to Mapei and now I'm using laticrete. I have to make special trips to get it but its worth it. Next in my list Is becoming a member of the tile contractor something something
As far as back buttering goes, it is always advantageous, but not absolutely necessary. The benefits are better bond because the mortar gets "keyed" into the tile and substrate, however on flat backed tiles with proper toweling the proper coverage will be achieved and is sufficient to garentee a proper install. Do I back butter? yes most of the time, but not always, usually don't back butter smaller tiles. If tiles have deep patterns on the back, then yes, fill those voids then set the tile. A tile that has been back buttered will not achieve proper coverage and transfer of thinset if it is set into a bed of mortar that has not been properly applied, however the mortar that does transfer to the tile will achueve a tenacious bond, which is good but the part of the tile that is left unsupported will be prone to failure. Coverage by back buttering is not equal to coverage by transfer of the bond coat.
NTCA
i taught myself how to tile (now self employed) in spain where its dry and hot. i always soak my tiles in water for a few mins before hand and lightly wet the surface area to be tiled. i apply the directional method straight on the tile giving 100 % coverage with a 1/4'' notch trowel. dont know why i did it this way, just seemed the most logical for maximum adhesion. never had a lifted tile or problems afterwards. glad i saw this vid as it showed me i'm pretty much doing it right. thanks.
The old way was to soak the tiles. We used to wet the back of the tile to see how much water the tile adsorbed.
And now it is not recomended to soak the tile, it can create " water bond"
Ted Grant yes if you are using Home Depot Tiles lol 😂 You gotta get the real stuff
@@franklinanderson7389 the old way is better, that how tiling has been done for hundreds of years.
My rental had "globbing" on the walls and a whole wall of tiles delaminated. However, the tiles were there since 1964, so not bad.
Thank you very much for the vids!! I am doing a walk in shower and have about 8 hours of youtube vids under my belt, and most are yours Sal!! Thanks again...and keep up the good work!
"Some eras that are made" 😂👍 gotta love that Bahstin accent
Should it be erroars then?
Great video guys! I'm glad that you explain the reasons for the techniques. Nobody ever does that, they simply tell you what to do without explaining why or demonstrating the reasons not to. It was a real education. Thank you!
Great that you can collaborate in this video. I appreciate both of you.
brotherjoeradosti thank you, Sal and I are brainstorming more videos 👍
Thank you for your clear and well presented tutorial. God's blessings always guys.
I'm a 70 year old woman and I'm going to lay them two or three per day. Once again thanks.
It would have been nice to see the progression include directional troweling without back buttering.
I heard some advice to make swirls in the thinset when applying to the ceiling to form vacuum pockets to hold the tile up.
When I actually did my ceiling I did straight lines, back buttered with straight lines and had no problem at all with the thinset holding the weight of the tile.
I think it's actually a lot easier to hold the tiles up than people expect as long as you have good coverage and a good mix of thinset.
I really enjoyed the way you formatted this instructional video about the "dos and don'ts" , I am not in this field of work , however I am doing a tile project; so I found your video extremely helpful and educational, which I appreciate. So thank you and keep the videos comin' boys !
Hi Mr. Diblasi, I just watched some of your videos the other day. I have been watching Home Repair for a while. I became a DIY person after paying professionals to do the work. I have plenty of loose floor tiles with no butter what so ever. People need to watch these videos before paying someone to do the work.
What a fantastic lesson for directional troweling.
Nice! I have done lots of DIY tile projects with varying levels of success. The best success is when I back buttered the tiles.
Sorry to necromance this but this Lion's fan really appreciates all of your videos!
This eliminates a lot of trowel and error! Sorry, I had to. I like to have a moist towel over my mud bucket. The thinset I use seems to dry pretty fast. So I just make small batches and do the same with grout. I'll take any advice. I've laid maybe a total of 4,000sq feet and I'm still learning. Professionals like these guys make it look easy. Tile experts and drywall pros, hats off from the painters and finishers
Thanks for watching my video.
Thanks...one of the most informative on proper installation without the wild background music that only distracts me (as I've seen in other DIY'ers video).
Thanks guys ! Great videos. I've got about 600 sq ft of tile I'm about to try for only the 2nd time in my life 👍
My Papa would of loved this. Craftsman tile setter for 50+years
😊👍
WOW! what a blast to see you both together!
Wow... never thought about the reason for directional troweling!!! I'm getting close to tiling (just finished RedGuad-ing). Thanks guys!
Thanks guys. I think your basic point to people watching is that you want good coverage of thinset on your tile and surface to avoid voids behind the tile. If in doubt, butter the backside of the tile before installing over the troweled thinset on your surface. In actual installation situations, going much beyond that can create much squeeze out of thinset in your grout joints, particularly the tighter your joints are, which is pain and unnecessary. Sal, do you remember the days before Hardibacker of lath, scratch and brown coat walls? An old tile setter once taught me to cut baking soda into my mud on my board right before floating. It certainly made the mud float easier, but you didn't want to leave it on your skin very long!
Floating is a dying art, in most of the country, except a few places where it is alive and well. recently there has been some renewed interest in learning how to do it by many installers.
Interesting. I would have thought mud showers would have long since become a thing of the past. The alternative options today when installed right are certainly more cost effective and probably every bit as good as floated walls, maybe better?
You do nice work, Sal. I saw you floating a shower floor in a video and was reminded of a story you may get a kick out of. In 1977, I was a lot younger than I am now and quite by chance took a summer job as a helper at a tile company in Abilene, Texas. That turned out to be one of those life direction altering events that happens sometimes. One of my first times to actually go out on a job, I went with a gruff, older guy to help him dry pack a shower floor. We pulled the mud pan off the truck and he quickly told me ratios of portland to sand and said to mix it "dry", then went into the house. I did the best I could with the information I had and remember thinking I had nailed it. When he came back out to get the mud, he started yelling that it was too wet, started stomping around, cussing, kicking buckets, etc. After I had heard enough, I blurted out, "Alright, what do I have to do to fix it, do I start over or what?" That kind of stopped him in his tracks. He grabbed the shovel, threw some dry sand and portland on the pile, and chopped through it a couple of times with the hoe. Then he took a handful of the mix, squeezed it tightly, showed it to me and quietly said, "If you squeeze it and can see water, it's too wet. It only needs to be damp enough to set up the portland." That guy taught me to set tile, install plastic laminate and lay wood flooring and helped set me on a course to making a living working with my hands in the years that followed. And he never raised his voice with me again!
Good story, perfect answer.
Sal, love your videos sir. Invaluable information for someone looking to install floor tile for the first time. Think I've watched about 30 of your videos in the last couple weeks.
Awesome, thank you!
I like this because Sal's accent is wicked cool 😎
Great, Great video. Thanks so much for the education. Kind Regards and Greetings from North Michigan. USA.
Congrats both guys. great video! Do not forget to use margin trowel and wet sponge after each tile is back buttered and properly taped with rubber mallet during your installation.
This video was great... A lot of remodels I've done show questionable and lazy work. On the other hand I've seen some really clever work. Backbutter and take your time. Anti-lippage products help a ton
Thanks guys, I used this technique around the house and it definitely gives solid results - I had to change some of my work and it was so hard to take off my dried tiles, it was ripping drywall off.
thanks Sal for teaching us and sharing your videos .. My tile work has improve 99 percent .... Please keep it up sir
Thanks, I intend to.
So cool to see you both together. You both are the best
Jeff is a good guy.
Good video bud , make sure everyone knows your trowel size is just as important to get the most coverage. I️ wouldn’t use this size trowel on a tile bigger then a 12x12, it’s important to collapse the air gaps by moving the tile side to size ATLEAST and inch or two before it’s in its final placement. Keep the videos coming
And back buttering is an ABSOLUTE MUST. Which you touched on . Great demo
Your trade is so invaluable and thank you for being so meticulous about the way you handle the work that you do
Hey fellow builder in pittsburgh here! Here we go Steelers!
When u think theres nothing more to learn u see this. Thanks for the tips. Good to know.
Hi Sal, I completely agree with blobbing the tile this way on the floor. On the walls, I do not see it as much as blobbing the back (approx. 12 blobs per 12 by 24 inch tile) of the tile is a commonly used method in large union jobs throughout my area in Toronto, Canada. The wall is skimmed first then the tile is skimmed and blobbed...the finish does give 90percent coverage or more and allows for more play when installing large rectified tile.
Spot bonding is something to be avoided, The TCNA handbook has only two methods for spot bonding which requires the use of specialized epoxy mortars is to be used in dry areas only, interior only and As stated in the handbook "Will not withstand impact." Look them up. Best to not use this method at all and there is no instance where it is approved for floors.
YOU GUYS ARE A GREAT TEAM!
I think your video was very well put together,. And it was easy to understand , I'm new to tile install,. But I really think after seeing you guys , I think I'll do a much better job,.
and I won't use my spatula next time.
Thanks guys !
If your tiler's last name doesn't end in a vowel, DON'T USE HIM!!!!! ;-) Great video, Sal! Thank you!
We We nrru
We can disciplineno ஓஒ ஓஓஒ ஒர ஒர ஒர ஒர ஒர oஒ. ஐ
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Very informative...thank you! I’ve been arming myself with all this knowledge before tackling the tile work in my new bathroom - thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This detailed video answered a lot of my questions, Thank You for sharing.
Best of all excellent informational videos. Subject related information is of extremely high quality education.
Thanks
They drill ..... but they help me so much, thanks a lot....Sal a real pro, the best driller
And I'm a Browns fan!! 🏈🏈Great video gentleman!
Linedancing_Zalika lol, yes I'm a Steelers fan and can appreciate your comment, thank you
Loved the team work. Awesome! Great info. Thank you so much. Need more gentlemen working working together as a team.Great example. Love the the video.
Thank You So Much for your videos Sal. You're Awesome!
If you have time, Could you do a video on plank tiles please?
Like the tile planks that look like wood.
great teamwork
Two greats together! Fantastic.
Great video. I learned a lot, actually I understand why some of my kitchen floor tile is cracked. The method the installer used was a swirly pattern method. Next time I'm doing it myself! ...with the help of these videos of course! Thank you!
That's correct method. Sometimes we alternate and change .
Both of y’all r great
Thanks for sharing fantastic video and regards.
Thank You for the advise and answers to questions. Its nice to actually get answers . Appreciated and watch all you videos.
Very informative !👍 I learned a lot about tinset application especially on the 20s tiles 👍
Great show very informative
Happy New Year Gentlemen! Sal!!! You're channel is so educational AND your video's have an easy to follow progression. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
far from a pro and far from green.. great info.. great video.. keep it up great job guys! def not a home owner special channel
Thanks, guys.
keep in mind, when he did the wrong (small) trowel test, he was using a completely flat and perfect surface. On real life uneven and rough substrates it would be way worse, so really good advice.
Great information. I like a confident installer. What is the best way to cut and apply tile around light switches and sockets.
Two tile youtube #legends keep the great work you two
😊
this is how you network great job.
thank you...now I just have to convince Sal to become a Steelers fan
Best tile videos out there Sal keep up the great work. Subscribed 👊🍺
☺thanks
thanks for this I am about to do my very first tile job
Very clear! Thanks Sal and Jeff!
thanks a lot for both of you guys.
Hi, Guys! I enjoy your videos, BUT I watched your video on using Schluters All Set, and as you instructed, followed the directions on the bag exactly. 6.5 its qtr to one 50lb bag. I timed everything to the second. It was as thick as fudge! (I have no previous experience, so thought OK, this is what the experts, you, said to do.
First, I burned up my heavy duty hammer drill. One bucket ruined.Next, after buying a heavy mud mixer, I tried again, using your "do it exactly this way" instructions. Still very thick, but went ahead and installed the Schluter membrane. Very difficult with lousy end results.
So next, I called Schluter customer service-great people by the way-and told them my story. Their rep said add another quart of water. I next called the local Schluter rep and he agreed. So off we went, with great results!
So, what gives?
Can't really say, I have used Schluter thinset countless times, mixed it according to the instructions every time and had no issues with it at all. Calling Schluter was the right move. I am a consumer just like you, I buy it and use it as instructed. I have had issues with thinset periodically, from several manufacturers, it is rare but it does happen, and when it does happen I dump the thinset and move on, I tell the manufacturer what happened and they always try to make it right by supplying replacement product. Part of being a contractor is dealing with issues, finding a solution and moving forward. If you had had more experience, you would have realized you needed to add more water, that is also part of the whole process, make adjustments where needed. In that video, you saw exactly what i did, and what the outcome was, you had a different end result, the solution was simple, but because you had no past experience , you did not know how to resolve it, now you do, you are now one step closer to becoming a better installer.
I'm looking at a big or All Set right now and the directions clearly state to use 7.5-8.5 qts for setting membrane and 5.5-6.5 qts for setting tile... Maybe it changed in the last 3 years
Great video. Thank you Sal and Jeff.
would have liked to see a direct comparison of directional vs non-directional trowling. Since only the directional was back buttered, it's hard to know how much the air pocket theory for non-directional trowling actually affects coverage?
Sure thing, here you go, proof positive. th-cam.com/video/roVqR--taAM/w-d-xo.html
Sal DiBlasi I just watched the video. In the demonstration of non-directional trowling, the installer doesn't move the tile side to side AT ALL! Intentionally leaving uncollapsed ridges to prove a point doesn't prove a theory. Apples to Oranges. I just want to see a honest comparison.
ok, here is a more in-depth version th-cam.com/video/nVB4i_mQlS8/w-d-xo.html
Sal DiBlasi That one was a little better, but the installer was cleary applying more pressure to the tile with directional trowling, which is what collapsed the ridges. In the example of non-directional trowling, he deliberately moved the tile with very little downward pressure. You can see a clear difference in the amount of pressure on his fingertips, again to prove the theory. I assume that an honest comparison would have a VERY small difference in coverage. Like 2% maybe?
What can I say, it seems that you just don't want to believe it no matter what. What could be the possible benefit to discouraging one method over another for no apparent reason. These are recommendations from well respected entities, the NTCA is one of them and I am a member. They are trying to promote better coverage for better installs, this can only be a good thing for the industry.
Amateur here, DIYer:
1. Backbutter the tile with lines, apply to a thin smooth coat of mud on the substrate... if it achieves the same good coverage this is okay, right?
2. (For a repair job replacing small ceramic tiles on a wall) should I apply the tile adhesive the same way thinset should be applied? With 100% coverage?
Thanks.
Great informative video. Not to be mean, but just saying...at time 13:13 I disagree with the statement "all the ridges were collapsed." Because, it's quite obvious, all of them were not.
On Slab on Grade, there is usually a mortar that mason laiid onto the concrete to receive the tile. This usually make an overall thickness of 50mm. that is used to concealed aluminium door frame which is usually 45-50mm high. Do you have any advice on that?
I had my cousin do my bathroom floors a company that he was starting up there was a quarter to 0% of backing on the subfloor under the back of board he left half inch gaps did swirls the mortar for the towels had less than 10% contact a nightmare I'm having to repair this all by myself now I had and redo my entire home everything in the flooring has to be replaced nothing was done correct he took me for a lot of money because I did not know thank you for your knowledge he was to replace subfloor new from water damage there is a 3 by 4 Square whole subfloor not screwed into four by four flooring
Can you confirm the time gap between casting of floor on grade slab and laying of tiles. I understand there is a need to wait for the concrete to cure using say ponding method.
Go Stillers!!!
Thanks great job
Any suggestions on brand/type of thin set to use ? Wether it’s for floor or shower wall tile? Or large wall tile?
I wish I was in the tile industry in anywhere but where I am lol. Cali and Newyork got some good peeps doing tile.
This would be a lot more convincing if you did directional troweling WITHOUT back buttering, because that seemed to be the bigger difference. You changed 2 variables at once.
It does seem like if it's been back buttered like that, it could have practically have been just placed on the bare board, and it would have still shown complete coverage after pulling it back up to demonstrate the coverage.
Truth. Back buttering no matter how you apply it on the substrate would've achieved the required coverage
please repost those thinset recommendations for the large tile, cant seem to locate them, sorry , thanks, great videos
th-cam.com/video/S80GVg4Y4MU/w-d-xo.html
hello sal thank you both for the great video and tips.
I was looking through your videos because I was trying to find one where you can teach us what to do when floors are really uneven.
if you ever come across a nasty uneven floor like I did please share with us what your procedures are. thank you sal keep the vids coming
Jose Miranda if the subfloor is way off level it might be best to tear up everything and inspect the joists. Here in Pittsburgh we've seen many joists hacked through and lead to structural problems. One recommendation would be to reconfigure the plumbing , sister new joists to the old ones and try to get the new subfloor as level as possible. Obviously follow your local building codes 👍
Good advice Jeff.
Jose Miranda very good work i'm can this work.عمل جيد وممتاز وانا اعمل فى مصر بنفس التقنية الحديثة لهذا العمل وعالج مشاكل كثيرة فى العمل واتمنى ان اعمل معكم.او نعمل سويا.
Home repair marble tile
Marble tiling large arena,
Thanks Sal , Your video's are great and helpful.
can you tell me what kind of tile to use on a kitchen floor also if using hardbacker and what thinset should be used to set the backer board and what kind of thinset should be used to lay the tile.
Thanks, Ha we won this past weekend great game
Tile Porcelain-low gloss, thinset - Polymer modified for everything.
Mate, with regards of water getting behind the wall tiles, it should not be getting behind, if you tile your floor first and grout it mapie ultra colour which the water does not get though, then you have no gaps. Then do your walls and leave a 3 mm gap of the floor and fill it with silicone then it should not wick up. If do your walls first and if it gets burred in the screed then it will wick up, that's a big no no. I always waterproof my floor substrate and walls and waterproof the top of the screed as well, always use grouts which the the water does not get though ie. Mapie, kerakoll. If you do that you won't ever have any problems.
Countless failed installs prove you wrong. Water will always find its way under the tile over time in a wet area, end of story. You are fooling yourself if you think otherwise.
God bless you guys!
Great job fellas
Thanks!
I have learned a lot from you two guys and really appreciate the tips and feedback you give
We hired a pro (so we thought talked a good game )
Everything he did was correct accordingg to the videos that I have seen from both of you
It seems he suddenly went stupid one day .
Before we know it he has thinset on surface of the natural stone floor tile and all over the surface of the ceramic tile on the wall.
We are concerned about getting this removed as it has been on there for a couple of days
Can you guys do a video of how to remove excess thinset from the surface of different
types of tile ?
In the meantime can you tell me the best method to remove all of this thinset with the least amount of damage. This is not grout but actual thinset
Any help or suggestions would be a big welcome
He says he can scrap it right up I am not so sure
I would suggest you let him finish the job before you attempt anything, if you damage the tile you can't call him out on it.
He is nearly done . My concern is he may use something that will ruin the tile. In our area these guys just go out of business and open up under a different name if they get into a botch job. Contracts hold very little water
I just want to make sure he uses the right product to clean and not make matters worse
Thanks fro the reply
On the stone you need to be very careful not to use a cleaner that will etch the stone, on the ceramic not as big a problem. Sometimes a razor will do the job, just be careful not to scratch the tile.
Hey! I'm going to install some marble backplash in my kitchen this week but i have a hard time deciding on what type of tinset to use. could you please recoment one?
A lot of backsplashes are installed with a mastic, especially in dry areas. (To help hold the weight of the tile). however if you’re installing marble - it’s best probably to go with a thinset (white thinset most likely, if you’ve got a specific marble)
It depends what your material and layout will be. If you are dealing with sheet-goods or a marble mosaic, then that can change your needs as well.
Marble is easy to scratch and is very porous, don’t forget to *Not* use a marker while making your cuts.
Be mindful of your trowel size before “buttering” - you don’t want too thick of a thinset bed if you’re dealing with smaller tiles.
I really wish I would’ve seen this before i tiled my floor😬
please make a video on the proper way to mix the thinset
Here is one specific to Schluter thinset, however the directions are on every bag of thinset no matter the brand. th-cam.com/video/7N2k1RnmeJI/w-d-xo.html
Great video guys!
Siervo del Altisimo thank you, any requests for the next one
Home Repair Tutor, Actually yes, I've seen different types of thin set at the store, does really make a big difference, if you don't use exactly the one recommended by the store?
if installing a product, e.g. DITRA, use what the manufacturer recommends. As an example, DITRA calls for modified thin-set when adhering it to a wood subfloor. So you'd want to use a modified thin-set for that. Sal has a great video on this installation. Sal and I plan to do more videos on thin-set options down the road. I'd never go with what the store people tell me to use over what the manufacturer recommends.
Home Repair Tutor, Thank you very much for taking the time, God bless!
great video!!!!
George P thank you, we hope to make more
Love your vids sal and appreciate you sharing your knowledge.Quick question for since I can’t seem to find it,when thin set starts to stiffen in bucket can I just add more water and carryover to next day to keep from setting or does thinset lose its strength if u keep remixing with water to carry out longevity?Been using same mix for two days adding water at night and mixing before bed as well as in morning.Just running a test to see how long I can make last.Maybe a dumb question but curious on your thoughts.
Never add water to soften it after initial mix and slake. Pot life varies but most are between 2 and 4 hours. You can remix a couple of times without adding water to soften it, but that is it. After that it is trash.
@@SalDiBlasi appreciate you getting back to me.
Great vid & collab Sal. I subbed to Jeff's channel.
Henry Wong thank you, hope you like the tips
Hi Henry, how is your bathroom holding up, any tiles fall off yet :-)
Sal DiBlasi The bathroom is still like new🖒. We always get compliments on the nice work you did!
Good to hear. I always remember your bathroom when you comment, and of coarse you.
Great tips. Thank You.
Good solid points. Thanks for the vid.
1 thing that's not addressed on here is exactly how thick do you apply the thinset? The first 3 tiles I installed, I think I used too much but when pulling the notched trowel across the wall and the tile it almost seemed like way too much thinset. So should it just be thick enough to fill the voids on the tile or should it be 1/4, 1/2 inch thick. In my life I've done everything you can imagine that has to do with labor, but installing tile is the one thing that just completely terrifies me. But, I've got the supplies, and I've watched countless videos. I'm not going to let this task beat me. Just tough trying to do it at the age of 66 with only 1 working shoulder. Thanks Sal and Jeff for all of your help.
Depends on the type of thinset, the key is coverage, 80% in a dry area, 95% in a wet or exposed area or for natural stone. Substrate preparation is also important, a flat surface will require less adhesive and be much easier to work on. So use the correct trowel and use directional troweling with proper technique.
From what I've seen and what little I've done, the notches in the trowel determine how much thinset gets left in there. Your job is to put enough down first that you get nice even ridges with no gaps when you notch it, and then you have to hold the notched trowel at a 45 degree angle. The notches to the rest.
I had a similar experience to yours on my first tile job. I ended up using far too much thinset because I started out too thick because I was holding the trowel at too steep and angle. I'm living and hopefully learning.
Very Nice! Thank you
So would u guys says that trowelling in same direction and back buttering exact same direction ensures one the strongest bond then?
What other uses can thinset be used for besides for tiles of course can you use it like cement for garden pot making or anything else
Thinset is designed to set tile, or tile related stuff, if you need to make something else, best to use the appropriate product.
@@SalDiBlasi thank you ,it's just I get access to extra thinset and was thinking what else can I use it for instead of buying cement and sand like patching my cracked driveway,making a small mould for crafts etc
@@vidiaramheerai2979 Thinset does not really work well for that stuff, it is an adhesive so it is sticky and messy, it can not be built up to any degree beyond what it is designed for, bond coat depth, without cracking and shrinking.
I’m going to til a back splash in my kitchen soon. I’ll be applying these “beveled rectangular subway tiles” and bcs they are beveled , they have a sort of depression on the back of them. So, my question is about applying the thinset. I would suspect that you will advise me to “back butter “ them to fill in the back to make it even for applying but thing is they’re only 3” x 6” in dimension, kinda small so for that size would back buttering still be recommended..? Thank You