Hello there. It’s all fixed. Finished at 5pm wow. The dealer, I just laughed when they said 900.00 dollars. I fixed it for 100.00 dollar. Did my own diagnostics, swapped coils from 2 to 1 bank. Replaced the number 2 coil. Plugs were ok. Man our life as BMW owners is real. I knew what I was getting into when I purchased, but I fell in love when I looked at. Good or bad, I have to put money into it, and fix it my self. It’s our life lol.
My 2007 335i is doing the same thing ! My mechanic said his computer read cylinder #3 was not properly working so he says he’s going to change the coil for it and everything should be good , that’s what I’m hoping ..
Did your misfire throw your vehicle into limp mode? The engine fault icon thats in the thumbnail of this video, (the engine light with a line through lit up half yellow) was that light on in your vehicle too as well as it being in limp mode? Just trying to see if your problem aligns with mine, if so maybe i could try new coil packs. My car starts up, idles pretty rough then after about 30 seconds or so the chime comes on, the light comes on and the vehicle is now im limp mode with the fan kicked on. Once the car kicks into limp mode the vehicle idles smooth as butter but with barely any power at all. Im curious if its just killing ignition to those bad cyl and balancing out running on less cyl. Or if I'm having a turbo issue. Thanks in advance.
+Nick Torres That's what my channel is about....showing what ownership of a high mileage M3 is all about. Things break and it's good to see real cost of repairs and whether you can do the work yourself or not. Thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for sharing this info. I am really looking forward to seeing your step-by-step rebuild, and what related parts/repairs are needed as you dig into the rebuild (gaskets, etc..). Be safe out there, it looks icy!
+Marko Aleksić Thanks man....hopefully I get to experience all the troubles so you don't have too....or at least make it easier to fix and cheaper on the wallet
When I first bought my M3, a week later it went into limp mode. Got the engine malfunction and increased emissions warning, rpm went to 4500, and the car idled extremely rough. Got scared. I shut the car off and waited 5 minutes. Turned it back on and it went away and never happened again. This was back in September.
+Eloy Garcia That's exactly how mine started. Rainbow tree of lights when I turned the car on....let it idle for a few minutes while I popped codes on it....shut the car off....turned back on and gone. Didn't hear anything till about 6 months later. This time the actuator Hall sensor. Replaced that, good to go until 2 months after that, if that, the actuator went out. So the obvious symptom then of a dying circuit board is when that happens. It's gonna happen intermittently until it fails completely
Welcome back my friend, Glad to see you shooting again. I live in south Texas so i completely understand not wanting to go out in the cold since you moved from AZ. Hope you keep uploading and keep them coming when you can. Peace
+Torvic003 Yeah sorry was out on a few business trips and building a new PC. Some parts got back ordered. So ended up with a month of nothing. I did just come back from Austin. Geez it was 70-80 degrees. Talk about paradise. I gotta go back in 5 weeks. My corporate office is there. Gets tricky doing videos while having a normal job too. So I gotta do what I gotta do
Nice, I live about 3 hours south of Austin (middle of no where but hotter still) Just got back from a week in vegas and left my deposit as usual lol. We do have nice winters but the summers are asskickers! I totally understand the whole work thing i really don't know how you can shoot, edit and post videos after hearing what you do. I guess the no kid thing is the real trick.Well good luck with shooting more vids because we look forward to them. take it easy my friend.
Thanks....videos suck up a lot of my free time but I enjoy making them. I'd like to be the biggest M3 channel that has useful info. I know not all my videos have the most 100% correct info but it's what works for me. Stay tuned, more videos coming.
Thanks....sorry got bust with work life traveling. But I'm glad I made it to 143k. My first major issue. But this has definitely made the decision to do the rod bearings next summer. I really want to see how long I can push this car to. So need to be proactive with the known issues.
Thank you my x1 this morning did exactly the same thing than turned it back on and it seemed like it went away I thought maybe it’ was the egr valve fingers crossed on what it is brother
My 2008 BMW X5 4.8i sport, premium and winter package. The check engine light just came on today because I did a hard pull from a stop light. The engine lights light up like it was Christmas lol. It has 97,869 miles. I knew it lol. It’s being a BMW owner. That’s life. Sending the black beauty off on Monday for service.
@@KennethBostonian sure its not bent valves? My E36 M3 did that....CEL on, rough idle, rough running. Was 4 bent exhaust valves. Zero compression in cylinders 5&6.
Good video, I would change the title to how to tell whats wrong when in limp mode. Because you give a lot more info thats important and most people kinda know what it looks like.
Mine just went out in Bank 1 and I am glad I am still able to drive around safely. I'm just going to order the whole actuator and not try to replace the gears.
Talk about luck, I called around only one advanced auto had OEM Bosch. Back to work in the morning. No more hard pulls lol. Just driving slow. I’m thinking the timing chain soon, at 97.902 miles. Will do a complete tune up soon. Just couldn’t be out in this cold in Boston winter lol. I wish I had a garage.
I can not. It's something you will need to put on the code reader. Increased emissions is a basic code for a million things that could be wrong. Once you put it on a code reader it will spit out a more defined code and you can research that on bimmerforums or google
You're telling me! Reminds me of the old days where cars used nylon timing gears that would crack and trash your engine. Makes zero sense for us but for BMW, think of the money they are making in service alone....nevertheless parts.
Every BMW owner needs a OBD2 code reader lol. I purchased one today. P0302 misfire. I have a P0071 Ambient air temperature sensor range/ performance. I hope it’s just the plug or the coil. By the way, great video.
Hey brother I strolled down the comments , I noticed somebody asking if a non turbo e90 could going into limp mode, if not? my car is at 70000 what would you recommend doing to it to take care of best way possible to avoid major damage on my vehicle??
All cars can go into limp mode that are programmed to. Best recommendation? Keep your car up and maintain it well. You dont have to get crazy just look everything over once a while
Got this error last night on a long drive back from the city. I was pushing the limit racing an f80 160 mph. The f80 got smoked, and so did my actuators. RIP
Help needed my bmw 325i NO POWER TO THE CAR BUT DRIVES FINE BUT JUST NO PICK UP POWER AND REVS WONT GO OVER 4 revs NO lights what so ever now and again the traction control come on when driving ANY IDEAS PLEASE
Luck wasn't on my side but the rebuild went great. Found out it's the circuit board so had to buy a whole new one. No biggie just sucks. But Bank 1 the rebuild is working just fine
Can you drive a car with bad actuators? like obviously, id get it fixed as soon as possible, but say I'm just busy with school and don't have time but still need to get around, is that possible?
I could....it got up to normal speed (75) and got home just fine but my gears were intact so Im sure that's what. If the gears were broke I dont think I'd be able to drive it
Well hard to say. But yearly cost of oils changes will be like maybe $250 if you do it yourself. Gas is costing almost $60 to fill up on premium gas for an average of 300 miles per tank driving normally. Other items aren't terribly expensive. But just know doing things yourself vs taking to a garage will be a big cost savings to you
Just happened to me as well. Not sure what it is as I don’t have a reader for BMW yet but got engine malfunction light, service engine soon light, increased emissions as well as cruise control fault. Yay
That's happened to my 328i last night. While I sat in my car and suddenly, it starts vibrating and I turned the car off and turn it back on. The big engine light disappear turn it off, after 4 hours I got back to the car and drive the shit out of it like 100mph, and no issues so what can be the reason for that?
I'm not 100% sure cause I'm not a 328 guy. My best guess would be coil packs or injectors. They seem to be common issues with the inline 6 cars. Next time pull codes immediately
i had something like this happen once and then it went away when i turned the car off and on. i have a manual car though so its a little different (E-90) . BTW i only have 55k miles so its very unusual at that mileage but anyhow it went away and never happened again. maybe something got screwed up with the way it started up?
+jess van Thanks EXACTLY what mine did. Happened once and went away for almost a year. Then started it up and it happened again. Shut the car off then turned back on and was fine again. A few weeks later it came on again and ended up in serious limp mode and would clear. That's the sign of a actuator board going bad.
Currently lucky enough to have this problem with my e92 328i my car takes so long to pick up speed , at first it was as simple as turning it on and off
I notice in bmws the electronics can be funny sometimes. Turn it off then back on seems to solve some issues. But then it sticks in your head "is it gonna come back?" 😂
@@Neil542 this happened to me yesterday after work , i almost freak out lol, i didn't try to speed home 45 mph ish home didn't see if i could give it gas to go faster , got home cut car off got my foxwell it disappeared , smh, turn car on no show lol, small test drive all normal , yours came back
+etienne wilson Well I did the rebuild on both but then found out the board was bad on Bank 2. So only replaced bank 2 with a new one and bank 1 is rebuilt
RDDC so I conclude from your response:although the engine faults show that one bank is problematic,it's best to change both? similarly in your case you changed both where one bank was a refurbish. Out of interest what did the non refurbish actuator cost?
+kevin p My limp mode activated because one of my throttle actuator banks went out. And what happened to mine will never happen to yours. It only happens to the V8 and up cars. On my car I have 8 throttle bodies, 4 on each side of the engine. The actuator is the unit that pushes the rod to open and close the actuators when hitting the gas. Your car most likely only has one throttle body, like most cars. Therefore you don't have actuators. You may have something similar for your one throttle body but I couldn't tell you without researching
If you own a E9X M3 (s65) or an e60 M5 (s85) , Chances are more than likely your throttle actuators are going to go bad (if they haven’t already). It’s better to upgrade them as a preventative measure rather than finding yourself in limp mode on your way back from work. Why pay $600+ for a new unit which is inevitably going to go bad again, when you can get an upgraded rebuilt unit for a little over half of that price? MPower Motorsports rebuilds your TA’s in a manner that will outlive your car and they come with an “unlimited miles lifetime warranty” to show for it. You won’t have to worry about them going out again. They’ll even refund you $100 once you send in your faulty core. Not only are their prices unbeatable, but Abdul (the owner) is an absolutely amazing guy who really knows what he’s talking about and goes out of his way to make sure you’re satisfied. These guys are doing a great service for the M community. TAKE YOUR MONEY TO M POWER!! Best bang for your buck!! mpowermotorsports.org
+Wonton Bomb The car will wig out every now and then giving you the code but you can turn the car off, then back on, and it goes away. It will do this a few times. If a gear was really broke it will probably throw codes you can't clear the first time.
+Wonton Bomb or fine someone to fix the chips. That might be hard to do. As much as it sucks you may have to buy new ones. The work isn't that bad to put them in either. If you know what bank it is you can get away with replacing one first then the other one later. Follow my DIY and you'll have it apart and back together running in like 3 hours
+BMWAddict oh shit. Yeah I just replaced my thermostat and hall sensor and didn't do the throttle actuators because I needed to read up more on it and I needed to put the car back together I had things to do the next day. But hopefully I get it back together with no issues. We will see tomorrow. A fun day of ripping my car apart
1:40 sorry man, that doesn't mean half power. Its reduced power. If it was half power it would make it up hills 🤣 i lost both my TA's at the same time and it wouldn't even pull the skin off a rice pudding! Had mine done Monday just gone. Guy had them done in 25 mins.
Working on it. The rebuild went great but didn't fix my problem. It's actually the circuit board. I removed the board from bank 2 and put it one bank one and it followed. So...unfortunately I had to buy a new actuator since the board can't be bought separately. No big deal. The car is paid for. But the rebuild works since bank one is working fine after the rebuild. I couldn't get by that easy. Story of my life!!! The universe must have known I just got a bonus from work. So what better way to spend it right?
I have a 530I BMW and it won't go out of park I'll tell brake switch on it 97 brake switch transmission dry modeling can anybody tell me what's going on with my car thank you
I dont quite understand the full gist of your question. If it won't go out if park it could be some sort of transmission fault or gear selector fault. It could be something with the ignition too. A condition is not being met for it to engage out of park, or the part itself is faulty. If you have any CEL you need to read the code.
@@RDDC_Official it's a 530I BMW 06 my brake switch went out and I couldn't get it out of park so I'll put a new brake switch on it and it still won't go out of park the dashboard says brake switch transmission filter dry moly I don't know if it's the transmission control monitor could it be something else my starter the brake switch and the transmission messed up at the same time so could that be some kind of electrical problem could you please let me know thank you
My brake switch went out on my 530i BMW 06 the dashboard says brake switch transmission filter dry Molle could you tell me what's wrong with it because the starter the brake switch and the transmission messed up at the same time could it be some kind of wiring doing this even the headlights went out a brand new starter on it I don't know if it's the trash mission Control monitors I don't want to spend a lot of money on it if that's not the problem could it be something else I appreciate it if you can tell me thank you
Hi RDDC hey brother I need your help I have a problem with my trodel actuators gears they are ok to reprogram the actuators but the Mecanic is saying that he doesn't recommend me to change the gears he is telling me to change. The actuators instead of fixing them what do you recommend my actuators are taking the coding
+manuel lares Here's the thing. There's a chance the circuit board is bad. That's why they recommend this. You will know because your car will give throttle actuator codes then clear. The problem will come back eventually over and over until it doesn't clear anymore. If the gears were worn so bad or broke the codes would comes, the first time, and not clear. So the remedy is just replace both with new ones. I didn't do this. I replaced one and rebuilt the other. A reason why the board goes bad it suspected bad worn gears. The board tries harder to align worn gears and overheats. Or...just overheats from sitting under the manifold.
RDDC while driving it what do you recommend me should I replace replace the gears not cheap they're charging me 1000 bucks or should I go would use ones or just new ones
And sometimes it doesn't go off that limo that's a headache I can only tell you the only route the only way you can get clear of it if you were driving back up to clear it with your scanner turn off the car and turn it back on and it will clear will give you the whole horsepower I have that I would my laptop and one of my M3 I mean is not the best way to get around it but who wants to drive 10 miles an hours or 20 miles an hour home when there's no traffic right so I mean if the troll actuators are bad or the gears are bad every doesn't hurt the car to just reset the vehicle because it's just a code goes to the computer once you reset it your get your horsepowers all back even know it didn't we had a horse power before once you reset it it does go back to normal it's just a quick way to get around it to get home
+manuel lares I got lucky when mine when into limp mode. I was still able to drive 75 mph home (31 miles) with no problem other than I couldn't hit the gas hard. It had to gradually get to 75. But in my case my gears weren't bad...worn but not the cause of the problem. I'm sure my car wouldn't go past 20 mph if the gears actually broke
RDDC thanks I have the Mecanic open them tomorrow can you please pass me the link we're you buy the replacement trodel actuator and what company you purchase from thanks
Jaime Hernandez same shit happened last night. I was far away from homes like 28 minutes and the big engine light with half power shows up. I was kinda worried till I turn off the car and turn it back on and go handle my business to come back 3 hr later and drove the shit out of the car like 100mph on the highway and it's fine lolz that's crazy.
No. On these models there is E90, E92, E93, etc so people just say E9X where "X" is the variable model they have...others are more specific. Hope this helps.
one guy i know went to a shop and they told him he needed actuators and they didn't need that at all and they didn't even scan the obc. and they went to the dealer and got a cheaper price then this shop
+Roger Moore Yeah man. I can't see where $2000 in labor comes from. That's like 14 hours $125. I can get it and out and back in in about an hour now. Even if BMW charged 4 hours that's still a long time to do the procedure.
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
RDDC that's awesome. No disrespect intended. I just sold my 2007 e92 at 189,000 miles. I went into limp mode all of the time and the tranny was starting to go bad. You're definitely saving a lot of money by doing the repairs yourself.
10akee Not gonna lie....I thought about it many times trading it in for a new M2. But in all seriousness....I think the V8 M3 will grow in value soon. To me it's worth keeping on that alone since it's been paid for....just have to wait my time
Thanks but that guide just shows how to replace the actuator not rebuild it. I did find a rebuild DIY that was a bit more detailed. But there are only 2 online I could finds so I should have the only video on TH-cam actually showing the rebuild
RDDC yeah I kind of figured you will have to replace the actuator as it could be a circuit board issue. Had a Issue similar and realized it would just be easier buying the unit instead of soldering the board. Glad you have it working!
Hello there. It’s all fixed. Finished at 5pm wow. The dealer, I just laughed when they said 900.00 dollars. I fixed it for 100.00 dollar. Did my own diagnostics, swapped coils from 2 to 1 bank. Replaced the number 2 coil. Plugs were ok. Man our life as BMW owners is real. I knew what I was getting into when I purchased, but I fell in love when I looked at. Good or bad, I have to put money into it, and fix it my self. It’s our life lol.
Ah man. Great job! You just always get better satisfaction knowing you fixed it yourself and saved 8x your money!
My 2007 335i is doing the same thing ! My mechanic said his computer read cylinder #3 was not properly working so he says he’s going to change the coil for it and everything should be good , that’s what I’m hoping ..
Did your misfire throw your vehicle into limp mode? The engine fault icon thats in the thumbnail of this video, (the engine light with a line through lit up half yellow) was that light on in your vehicle too as well as it being in limp mode? Just trying to see if your problem aligns with mine, if so maybe i could try new coil packs. My car starts up, idles pretty rough then after about 30 seconds or so the chime comes on, the light comes on and the vehicle is now im limp mode with the fan kicked on. Once the car kicks into limp mode the vehicle idles smooth as butter but with barely any power at all. Im curious if its just killing ignition to those bad cyl and balancing out running on less cyl. Or if I'm having a turbo issue. Thanks in advance.
Nope...just good old throttle bodies
I like the fact that you are brave enough to post here the issue you have been having with the car so we the viewer doesn't have to.
+Nick Torres That's what my channel is about....showing what ownership of a high mileage M3 is all about. Things break and it's good to see real cost of repairs and whether you can do the work yourself or not. Thanks for watching!!!
Thanks for sharing this info. I am really looking forward to seeing your step-by-step rebuild, and what related parts/repairs are needed as you dig into the rebuild (gaskets, etc..). Be safe out there, it looks icy!
Uploading now....no gaskets involved
Good luck friend! I've been following your channel long time. Learning a lot before I get my first M3 E92. Keep up the good job!
+Marko Aleksić Thanks man....hopefully I get to experience all the troubles so you don't have too....or at least make it easier to fix and cheaper on the wallet
When I first bought my M3, a week later it went into limp mode. Got the engine malfunction and increased emissions warning, rpm went to 4500, and the car idled extremely rough. Got scared. I shut the car off and waited 5 minutes. Turned it back on and it went away and never happened again. This was back in September.
+Eloy Garcia That's exactly how mine started. Rainbow tree of lights when I turned the car on....let it idle for a few minutes while I popped codes on it....shut the car off....turned back on and gone. Didn't hear anything till about 6 months later. This time the actuator Hall sensor. Replaced that, good to go until 2 months after that, if that, the actuator went out. So the obvious symptom then of a dying circuit board is when that happens. It's gonna happen intermittently until it fails completely
Great video.. must’ve said “alright” about a million times 😂😂
D
All right
Welcome back my friend, Glad to see you shooting again. I live in south Texas so i completely understand not wanting to go out in the cold since you moved from AZ. Hope you keep uploading and keep them coming when you can. Peace
+Torvic003 Yeah sorry was out on a few business trips and building a new PC. Some parts got back ordered. So ended up with a month of nothing. I did just come back from Austin. Geez it was 70-80 degrees. Talk about paradise. I gotta go back in 5 weeks. My corporate office is there. Gets tricky doing videos while having a normal job too. So I gotta do what I gotta do
Nice, I live about 3 hours south of Austin (middle of no where but hotter still) Just got back from a week in vegas and left my deposit as usual lol. We do have nice winters but the summers are asskickers! I totally understand the whole work thing i really don't know how you can shoot, edit and post videos after hearing what you do. I guess the no kid thing is the real trick.Well good luck with shooting more vids because we look forward to them. take it easy my friend.
Thanks....videos suck up a lot of my free time but I enjoy making them. I'd like to be the biggest M3 channel that has useful info. I know not all my videos have the most 100% correct info but it's what works for me. Stay tuned, more videos coming.
Good to see you back at it again. I'll be happy if I can get 150k miles out of it like you did.
Thanks....sorry got bust with work life traveling. But I'm glad I made it to 143k. My first major issue. But this has definitely made the decision to do the rod bearings next summer. I really want to see how long I can push this car to. So need to be proactive with the known issues.
Thank you my x1 this morning did exactly the same thing than turned it back on and it seemed like it went away I thought maybe it’ was the egr valve fingers crossed on what it is brother
Cross fingers its something simple. Most time it is. Put a diagnostic tool on it and do a bit of forum research and you should be good
Nice education vid bro. May i know what model is your obd scanner?
I'm using the Creator C110. They make a newer model and even revisions of the C110 itself. Cost about $45 on ebay
My 2008 BMW X5 4.8i sport, premium and winter package. The check engine light just came on today because I did a hard pull from a stop light. The engine lights light up like it was Christmas lol. It has 97,869 miles. I knew it lol. It’s being a BMW owner. That’s life. Sending the black beauty off on Monday for service.
Ugh! That doesn't sound good. Hope it's something inexpensive
Runs rough, engine light flashing. It’s so typical of the X5 coils.
@@KennethBostonian sure its not bent valves? My E36 M3 did that....CEL on, rough idle, rough running. Was 4 bent exhaust valves. Zero compression in cylinders 5&6.
Good video, I would change the title to how to tell whats wrong when in limp mode. Because you give a lot more info thats important and most people kinda know what it looks like.
Done. Thanks for the recommendation
Mine just went out in Bank 1 and I am glad I am still able to drive around safely. I'm just going to order the whole actuator and not try to replace the gears.
Get her done! Will be a painless 2 hour fix at best
Would be great to see a diy install of the actuators.
Uploading now
Quality still even when you own a few.
Talk about luck, I called around only one advanced auto had OEM Bosch. Back to work in the morning. No more hard pulls lol. Just driving slow. I’m thinking the timing chain soon, at 97.902 miles. Will do a complete tune up soon. Just couldn’t be out in this cold in Boston winter lol. I wish I had a garage.
Yeah I moved to sunny AZ from NY. Had one garage I couldn't fit a car into tons 3 car garage....still too small haha
When limp mode is on, cool the car temperature down and then it will drive ok, until engine gets hit again
can you explain what increased emissions is!
I can not. It's something you will need to put on the code reader. Increased emissions is a basic code for a million things that could be wrong. Once you put it on a code reader it will spit out a more defined code and you can research that on bimmerforums or google
@@RDDC_Official thanks bro
Wondering what they were thinking when they decided to use plastic gears. Otherwise this engine is a masterpiece but damn that was a dumb call.
You're telling me! Reminds me of the old days where cars used nylon timing gears that would crack and trash your engine. Makes zero sense for us but for BMW, think of the money they are making in service alone....nevertheless parts.
I have a bmw 335i n54 loss of power what is the problem its gone very slow what is the problem
Every BMW owner needs a OBD2 code reader lol. I purchased one today. P0302 misfire.
I have a P0071 Ambient air temperature sensor range/ performance. I hope it’s just the plug or the coil. By the way, great video.
Great cause if I have to see another post in FB groups that show a CEL and say "This came on today. Anybody know what this is?" 😂😂
Is this like a dealer bmw code reader ? I want to purchase a good one but that shows me everything even dealers codes
This is primitive in comparison but gets the job done no doubt. Dealership until go for thousands vs $50
@@RDDC_Official any link to a good buy link?
I just go through Amazon. It where I got mine. Cheap too. It's all I've ever used to diagnose my bmws and it's been fine
Hey brother I strolled down the comments , I noticed somebody asking if a non turbo e90 could going into limp mode, if not? my car is at 70000 what would you recommend doing to it to take care of best way possible to avoid major damage on my vehicle??
All cars can go into limp mode that are programmed to. Best recommendation? Keep your car up and maintain it well. You dont have to get crazy just look everything over once a while
Got this error last night on a long drive back from the city. I was pushing the limit racing an f80 160 mph. The f80 got smoked, and so did my actuators. RIP
Help needed my bmw 325i NO POWER TO THE CAR BUT DRIVES FINE BUT JUST NO PICK UP POWER AND REVS WONT GO OVER 4 revs NO lights what so ever now and again the traction control come on when driving ANY IDEAS PLEASE
nadia shewar I’m having this problem with my x5 now ..
nadia shewar coil packs? Spark plugs?
good luck on the repair
Luck wasn't on my side but the rebuild went great. Found out it's the circuit board so had to buy a whole new one. No biggie just sucks. But Bank 1 the rebuild is working just fine
I have an 09 e90, mine only does that while at idle for more than 5 min.. any suggestions? I restart the car and it's fine. 92xxx miles
Good one. I'll have to do some research on that issue
Can you drive a car with bad actuators? like obviously, id get it fixed as soon as possible, but say I'm just busy with school and don't have time but still need to get around, is that possible?
I could....it got up to normal speed (75) and got home just fine but my gears were intact so Im sure that's what. If the gears were broke I dont think I'd be able to drive it
How much the m3 cost to own it, maintenance, service, parts costs, fuel?
Well hard to say. But yearly cost of oils changes will be like maybe $250 if you do it yourself. Gas is costing almost $60 to fill up on premium gas for an average of 300 miles per tank driving normally. Other items aren't terribly expensive. But just know doing things yourself vs taking to a garage will be a big cost savings to you
What if my m3 went into limp mode and all of my lights came on Except for the Czech Injun light
Not sure. You'd have to pull the codes and see what it says
Just happened to me as well. Not sure what it is as I don’t have a reader for BMW yet but got engine malfunction light, service engine soon light, increased emissions as well as cruise control fault. Yay
Sorry for the late reply. Put a code reader on it. Then get on your knees and pray its something simple :)
RDDC No worries! Purchased a code reader and found out it was thermostat, and coil pack on cylinder 8!
Thats not bad man. Pretty standard stuff. Glad you got that ironed out and not much out of pocket
Thank you. This is informative
No problem! Thanks for watching
That's happened to my 328i last night. While I sat in my car and suddenly, it starts vibrating and I turned the car off and turn it back on. The big engine light disappear turn it off, after 4 hours I got back to the car and drive the shit out of it like 100mph, and no issues so what can be the reason for that?
@RDDC
I'm not 100% sure cause I'm not a 328 guy. My best guess would be coil packs or injectors. They seem to be common issues with the inline 6 cars. Next time pull codes immediately
Me too , did u find out what it was
Curious myself
I coded it and I got the electric coolant water pump
i had something like this happen once and then it went away when i turned the car off and on. i have a manual car though so its a little different (E-90) . BTW i only have 55k miles so its very unusual at that mileage but anyhow it went away and never happened again. maybe something got screwed up with the way it started up?
+jess van Thanks EXACTLY what mine did. Happened once and went away for almost a year. Then started it up and it happened again. Shut the car off then turned back on and was fine again. A few weeks later it came on again and ended up in serious limp mode and would clear. That's the sign of a actuator board going bad.
Currently lucky enough to have this problem with my e92 328i my car takes so long to pick up speed , at first it was as simple as turning it on and off
I notice in bmws the electronics can be funny sometimes. Turn it off then back on seems to solve some issues. But then it sticks in your head "is it gonna come back?" 😂
@@Neil542 this happened to me yesterday after work , i almost freak out lol, i didn't try to speed home 45 mph ish home didn't see if i could give it gas to go faster , got home cut car off got my foxwell it disappeared , smh, turn car on no show lol, small test drive all normal , yours came back
Did you only change bank 2?
Ive seen some varying opinions where should change both if one bank goes
+etienne wilson Well I did the rebuild on both but then found out the board was bad on Bank 2. So only replaced bank 2 with a new one and bank 1 is rebuilt
RDDC so I conclude from your response:although the engine faults show that one bank is problematic,it's best to change both? similarly in your case you changed both where one bank was a refurbish.
Out of interest what did the non refurbish actuator cost?
+etienne wilson the new actuator cost $983.
why did that limp mode happen? does that happen to regular 328i E90?
+kevin p My limp mode activated because one of my throttle actuator banks went out. And what happened to mine will never happen to yours. It only happens to the V8 and up cars. On my car I have 8 throttle bodies, 4 on each side of the engine. The actuator is the unit that pushes the rod to open and close the actuators when hitting the gas. Your car most likely only has one throttle body, like most cars. Therefore you don't have actuators. You may have something similar for your one throttle body but I couldn't tell you without researching
What kind of scanner do you use?
Can't remember the model but I posted it on one of my other videos. They make an updated version that reads the codes in English vs German
If you own a E9X M3 (s65) or an e60 M5 (s85) , Chances are more than likely your throttle actuators are going to go bad (if they haven’t already). It’s better to upgrade them as a preventative measure rather than finding yourself in limp mode on your way back from work. Why pay $600+ for a new unit which is inevitably going to go bad again, when you can get an upgraded rebuilt unit for a little over half of that price? MPower Motorsports rebuilds your TA’s in a manner that will outlive your car and they come with an “unlimited miles lifetime warranty” to show for it. You won’t have to worry about them going out again. They’ll even refund you $100 once you send in your faulty core.
Not only are their prices unbeatable, but Abdul (the owner) is an absolutely amazing guy who really knows what he’s talking about and goes out of his way to make sure you’re satisfied. These guys are doing a great service for the M community. TAKE YOUR MONEY TO M POWER!! Best bang for your buck!!
mpowermotorsports.org
How do I know if it's the gear that needs replacing or the computer chip itself within the actuator needs replacing?
+Wonton Bomb The car will wig out every now and then giving you the code but you can turn the car off, then back on, and it goes away. It will do this a few times. If a gear was really broke it will probably throw codes you can't clear the first time.
RDDC thanks I guess my chip is dying, I'm assuming I have to order an actuator ?
+Wonton Bomb or fine someone to fix the chips. That might be hard to do. As much as it sucks you may have to buy new ones. The work isn't that bad to put them in either. If you know what bank it is you can get away with replacing one first then the other one later. Follow my DIY and you'll have it apart and back together running in like 3 hours
Ouch,having this now, 183k miles original everything. 2011 e92///M3 s65
What codes popped up?
Limp mode is not fun. Had it happen when my thermostat went bad. Car shut off in the middle of spirited driving with people behind me
+BMWAddict oh shit. Yeah I just replaced my thermostat and hall sensor and didn't do the throttle actuators because I needed to read up more on it and I needed to put the car back together I had things to do the next day. But hopefully I get it back together with no issues. We will see tomorrow. A fun day of ripping my car apart
At least your troubles make for a good video 👍
+BMWAddict I guess :)
1:40 sorry man, that doesn't mean half power. Its reduced power. If it was half power it would make it up hills 🤣 i lost both my TA's at the same time and it wouldn't even pull the skin off a rice pudding! Had mine done Monday just gone. Guy had them done in 25 mins.
Fix her brother! God Speed!!!
Working on it. The rebuild went great but didn't fix my problem. It's actually the circuit board. I removed the board from bank 2 and put it one bank one and it followed. So...unfortunately I had to buy a new actuator since the board can't be bought separately. No big deal. The car is paid for. But the rebuild works since bank one is working fine after the rebuild. I couldn't get by that easy. Story of my life!!! The universe must have known I just got a bonus from work. So what better way to spend it right?
I have a 530I BMW and it won't go out of park I'll tell brake switch on it 97 brake switch transmission dry modeling can anybody tell me what's going on with my car thank you
I dont quite understand the full gist of your question. If it won't go out if park it could be some sort of transmission fault or gear selector fault. It could be something with the ignition too. A condition is not being met for it to engage out of park, or the part itself is faulty. If you have any CEL you need to read the code.
@@RDDC_Official it's a 530I BMW 06 my brake switch went out and I couldn't get it out of park so I'll put a new brake switch on it and it still won't go out of park the dashboard says brake switch transmission filter dry moly I don't know if it's the transmission control monitor could it be something else my starter the brake switch and the transmission messed up at the same time so could that be some kind of electrical problem could you please let me know thank you
My brake switch went out on my 530i BMW 06 the dashboard says brake switch transmission filter dry Molle could you tell me what's wrong with it because the starter the brake switch and the transmission messed up at the same time could it be some kind of wiring doing this even the headlights went out a brand new starter on it I don't know if it's the trash mission Control monitors I don't want to spend a lot of money on it if that's not the problem could it be something else I appreciate it if you can tell me thank you
Hi RDDC hey brother I need your help I have a problem with my trodel actuators gears they are ok to reprogram the actuators but the Mecanic is saying that he doesn't recommend me to change the gears he is telling me to change. The actuators instead of fixing them what do you recommend my actuators are taking the coding
+manuel lares Here's the thing. There's a chance the circuit board is bad. That's why they recommend this. You will know because your car will give throttle actuator codes then clear. The problem will come back eventually over and over until it doesn't clear anymore. If the gears were worn so bad or broke the codes would comes, the first time, and not clear. So the remedy is just replace both with new ones. I didn't do this. I replaced one and rebuilt the other. A reason why the board goes bad it suspected bad worn gears. The board tries harder to align worn gears and overheats. Or...just overheats from sitting under the manifold.
RDDC i let the car sit over night it goes away and it comes back on ones I'm driving it
RDDC I try reset the vehicle with inpa and it just doesn't go away any more but the funny part is the car clears it by it self and comes back on
RDDC while driving it what do you recommend me should I replace replace the gears not cheap they're charging me 1000 bucks or should I go would use ones or just new ones
+manuel lares yup...that's the circuit board going bad. If you had a real bad gear the code wouldn't clear.
I got the same problem with mine M5
Reinaldo Figueroa what is the top speed when the e60 m5 goes into limp mode?
You still have this bmw or you sold it
I still have it. Still going strong. I have a video recorded just need to edit it coming soon on the M3.
liquid molly is a good oil I use that in my m5
And sometimes it doesn't go off that limo that's a headache I can only tell you the only route the only way you can get clear of it if you were driving back up to clear it with your scanner turn off the car and turn it back on and it will clear will give you the whole horsepower I have that I would my laptop and one of my M3 I mean is not the best way to get around it but who wants to drive 10 miles an hours or 20 miles an hour home when there's no traffic right so I mean if the troll actuators are bad or the gears are bad every doesn't hurt the car to just reset the vehicle because it's just a code goes to the computer once you reset it your get your horsepowers all back even know it didn't we had a horse power before once you reset it it does go back to normal it's just a quick way to get around it to get home
+manuel lares I got lucky when mine when into limp mode. I was still able to drive 75 mph home (31 miles) with no problem other than I couldn't hit the gas hard. It had to gradually get to 75. But in my case my gears weren't bad...worn but not the cause of the problem. I'm sure my car wouldn't go past 20 mph if the gears actually broke
RDDC thanks I have the Mecanic open them tomorrow can you please pass me the link we're you buy the replacement trodel actuator and what company you purchase from thanks
just got a big brake kit from stoptech front and back
+Roger Moore Sweet! What was the ticket about $3k?
Just about that 3k even
The front was on sale 1500 and the back also 1500.
The price went right back up this week
Can't wait to put them in
I get the half power light and loss of power.. I turn the car off... turn back on.. power restored. It's awesome!! not.
Jaime Hernandez same shit happened last night. I was far away from homes like 28 minutes and the big engine light with half power shows up. I was kinda worried till I turn off the car and turn it back on and go handle my business to come back 3 hr later and drove the shit out of the car like 100mph on the highway and it's fine lolz that's crazy.
Did you get it fixed?
@@youngbenrozo8802 I'm having this issue now but it comes and goes . How do I get it fixed without being ripped off by the stealership
@kam ahmed I think it’s a water pump issue you should buy your own water pump and check a loco Mechanich
Having this problem now believe its either vvt module
Damn limp mode can happen for so many reasons. My turbos shut off and it jumps to 3rd gear.
My fix was a turbo vacuum hose that was cracked... smh
Yeah its the standard safety measure of the car and many cars
my 2009 M3 had kinda the same thing go on, except I wasn't able to shift into any gear. I loaded a video if your interested
+Ac Knaus yeah always interested to check out some M videos. I'm gonna get to editing this DIY after I eat
Did you fix the problem?
An X in Roman numerals is 10.
So, is E9X supposed to be E90 is slang?
Because it really means E910.
No. On these models there is E90, E92, E93, etc so people just say E9X where "X" is the variable model they have...others are more specific. Hope this helps.
one guy i know went to a shop and they told him he needed actuators and they didn't need that at all and they didn't even scan the obc. and they went to the dealer and got a cheaper price then this shop
+Roger Moore Thats crazy. Any person can pick up a basic code reader and pop the codes themselves before going to any shop.
That's what I do so they can't tell me any bullshi
He needed valve cover gaskets and they wanted almost 2500. He went to the dealer and it was way cheaper 1200
+Roger Moore Yeah man. I can't see where $2000 in labor comes from. That's like 14 hours $125. I can get it and out and back in in about an hour now. Even if BMW charged 4 hours that's still a long time to do the procedure.
+Roger Moore 😲 $1200 for a valve cover? Yikes!
What if my car HAS NO SCREAN!!
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
+Dodo Breezy there's a way to scroll through using your stalk. I can't remember quite how to but press the info button on your stalk then there's an up/down switch to scroll through each menu. Very primitive but I think it shows you the limp mode engine icon and such
Hopefully you sold it. It's not worth the repairs after 150,000.
Why would I sell it? Still running strong and Im at 165k miles. I do the work myself.
RDDC that's awesome. No disrespect intended. I just sold my 2007 e92 at 189,000 miles. I went into limp mode all of the time and the tranny was starting to go bad. You're definitely saving a lot of money by doing the repairs yourself.
10akee Not gonna lie....I thought about it many times trading it in for a new M2. But in all seriousness....I think the V8 M3 will grow in value soon. To me it's worth keeping on that alone since it's been paid for....just have to wait my time
You and your car are wired
Yes sir. In a world full of followers, stand out. I'll take that as a compliment. I dont want to be like everyone else
damn bro endless money pit
It was my throttle actuator. Typical failures on these cars. But, 175k miles, still going strong
Look up my instagram you'll see it at the bottom Mpire_Performance
Here's a diy guide too (good luck): www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735033
Thanks but that guide just shows how to replace the actuator not rebuild it. I did find a rebuild DIY that was a bit more detailed. But there are only 2 online I could finds so I should have the only video on TH-cam actually showing the rebuild
RDDC yeah I kind of figured you will have to replace the actuator as it could be a circuit board issue. Had a Issue similar and realized it would just be easier buying the unit instead of soldering the board. Glad you have it working!
+Rob Davis Yeah no sense wasting time trying this and that. At least I have a spare board to try some thing out with.
As shit
Happens to all cars man. The notorious CEL!