My local shop wasn't able to figure out the reason for the Reduced Power fault code on my 2013 X5. Thanks to this video and a temporary fix with some electrical tape around the split end, the code no longer pops up. A new hose is on order. Thank you so much for posting this video.
This was precisely my problem!!! You saved me hundreds of dollars in for that. I appreciate you. I'm going to buy 30 ft of 3.5 mm silicone tubing.... Liked and subscribe to my friend!
Thank you for this video, im dealing with this exact issue, i could hear the air while driving at normal operating temperature with the throttle engaged anywhere from 40%-100%. I have 2011 n55 engine in 335i coupe and it sounded like passenger side, plus air intake tube was replaced with aftermarket aluminum, so im certain this is my fix. Thank you for saving me time and confirming that your engine malfunction occurred at the same temp and same throttle position
Hi! I have a 2012 BMW X6M. I just want to make a comment on your video. I wish everybody would make their videos like you did yours. You know how to make a video clear, precise, and to the point! I do not know whether your "fix" will fix my car, but I will sure look into it. I assume that my X6 will be very similar to your X5 regarding this area of concern. I have the exact same problem as you describe. Acceleration causes the reduce power to come on. It's very annoying. Thanks for your video. I'll check to see if I can fix my car with your simple fix. Thanks.
Every car needs to be maintained..in reality with the newer BMWs they are pretty easy to work on and fix..u will go through coils,plugs,tires,brakes and MAF's
Hi bro., I would love to say thanks for your video. I have a BMW 2011 X5 M-sport, it was display Engine Malfunction Reduced Power Warning, Drive with Caution ... and when I driving (push the gas pedal) the engine was shareking) , I would like to know is that my vehicle problems was same with your vehicle posted? How do I fix it, thanks again.
I appreciate the positive feedback. You are very welcome. I'm glad it helped you. I'd appreciate a LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me. THANKS
So glad I found this video I bought a car and it’s gone back to dealer 5 times and fix and still keeps coming on when I drive over 70mph it’s stressing me is it something serious or not a big deal ? Goes off after it flashes up stays on few seconds then gone 😊
There are two hose connectors not sure if a previous mechanic put it in the wrong place . Can you please let me know where this line goes . First o. Second tube ?
I have taken my 2011 bmw x5 xdrive35i to 3 different shops and they have not been able to find the problem, the last one told me that the ecu needs to be replaced, i am going to look for that hose and let you know if that fixes this issue.
I'm just another echo in the chorus of thank yous. The rubber hose was split on mine and, thus, was barely holding onto the nipple. Cut that sucker off, reattached, and done. Note to others: Getting it back on is challenge unless you take off the air duct that sits over it. So, not quite as quick of a fix as it might seem, but still no more than a 10-minute job.
Hi I’ve got the same problem with my BMW 320i 2007 Q1 ; where did you find the code? Q2 ; there’s no code indicating any where! Q3 ; where should I check it first? Thank you
Thanks for doing this video. Very helpful. I got this warning last night on my 2013 X5 35i 108k miles. I did check the hose, and it was still attached firmly. Even though I didn't remove it, there was no sign of cracking when I felt it. Also, checked the charge pipe driver side and looked fine. I searched for a while to find a DIY replacing the booster selenoid and found a good video. FYI, here is the link in case someone needs to know how to replace it. - th-cam.com/video/TNx1MrW6dmc/w-d-xo.html - I still have to scan for codes, but in the end I may just have to start with replacing the selenoid and see if that clears the fault code. Trying to avoid the mechanic emptying my pockets 😎
Hey I jusr ordered boost solenoids literally 5 min ago on fcp euro, was that was your problem was? I scanned it with mhd and my mechanic said most likely boost solenoids
Any problem with that silicone line collapsed every time it feels vacuum vacuum? The reason the vacuum winds are kind of rigid It's too prevent Collapse.
couldn't agree more. I thought my prior Mercedes Benz ML was expensive to maintain. My BMW X5 is FAR MORE EXPENSIVE and has more oil leaks at 100,000 miles than my ML had at 200,000!
Replaced the valve tronic on mine its a pain. Then you have to take it in to bmw to get it reprogrammed.. It tells the engine the timing for the gears i think 🤔. But it was annoying in the Freeway...
it's very hard to see. This video shows the braided jacket vac hose and connection to the boost solenoid at around 7:53 th-cam.com/video/TNx1MrW6dmc/w-d-xo.html The boost solenoid has 2 vacuum lines and 1 electrical connector.
dude this was it.... hose wasnt even attached. Was about to order 300$ in random parts. Thank you.
Exact same. Thanks Arthur!
I had unattached mine when I changed the spark plugs. And that hose fixed the problem
My local shop wasn't able to figure out the reason for the Reduced Power fault code on my 2013 X5. Thanks to this video and a temporary fix with some electrical tape around the split end, the code no longer pops up. A new hose is on order. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Glad my video helped you. Be sure to LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me! THANKS!!!!!
This was precisely my problem!!! You saved me hundreds of dollars in for that. I appreciate you. I'm going to buy 30 ft of 3.5 mm silicone tubing.... Liked and subscribe to my friend!
Bro you saved my life! I went right to the vacuum line and walla crack line. The same one your showing 8 dollar fix who hoooooo
Thank you for this video, im dealing with this exact issue, i could hear the air while driving at normal operating temperature with the throttle engaged anywhere from 40%-100%. I have 2011 n55 engine in 335i coupe and it sounded like passenger side, plus air intake tube was replaced with aftermarket aluminum, so im certain this is my fix. Thank you for saving me time and confirming that your engine malfunction occurred at the same temp and same throttle position
Hi!
I have a 2012 BMW X6M. I just want to make a comment on your video. I wish everybody would make their videos like you did yours. You know how to make a video clear, precise, and to the point! I do not know whether your "fix" will fix my car, but I will sure look into it.
I assume that my X6 will be very similar to your X5 regarding this area of concern. I have the exact same problem as you describe. Acceleration causes the reduce power to come on. It's very annoying. Thanks for your video. I'll check to see if I can fix my car with your simple fix.
Thanks.
Yes, X5 and X6 will be the same when it comes to this issue.
Every car needs to be maintained..in reality with the newer BMWs they are pretty easy to work on and fix..u will go through coils,plugs,tires,brakes and MAF's
Hi bro., I would love to say thanks for your video. I have a BMW 2011 X5 M-sport, it was display Engine Malfunction Reduced Power Warning, Drive with Caution ... and when I driving (push the gas pedal) the engine was shareking) , I would like to know is that my vehicle problems was same with your vehicle posted? How do I fix it, thanks again.
Did you get it fixed? Was it the same thing ?
@@weareone7315 No, Is wasn't and is gone than I got new Lexus RC 350 F is was a lot better then . Thank for asking bro.
Thanks to you sir, your video was more then helpful and may the almighty God continue to bless you and your family in everything you do
I appreciate the positive feedback. You are very welcome. I'm glad it helped you. I'd appreciate a LIKE and subscribe. THAT will really help me. THANKS
THIS WAS IT !!!! Thank you so so much !
Got a 2011 335i got that after changing my starter frm and negative ground wire I get this dumb shit lol thanks for the video very informative
Same issue on my 2011 x5 msport pkg, but couldn't find that tube...maybe location is different for my year...
So glad I found this video I bought a car and it’s gone back to dealer 5 times and fix and still keeps coming on when I drive over 70mph it’s stressing me is it something serious or not a big deal ? Goes off after it flashes up stays on few seconds then gone 😊
What was the fix for your x5?
Had fault codes reset not come back on since but I haven’t drove it hard on motorway since so may come back on
Great video!! I have an X6 and this also worked on mine!
I’m months late , but does it run the same way for the x6, having that problem as we speak
@@KannMorrisI have the same issue… I got the message while on the highway 😢 I had to exit… turn the car off and restart it…. I need this problem fixed
Thank you for the great advice, and where to start
There are two hose connectors not sure if a previous mechanic put it in the wrong place . Can you please let me know where this line goes . First o. Second tube ?
Liked and subscribed. Do you have a link to your silicone part?
sorry, I had a piece of silicone hose but ebay and online auto parts stores have it. Your local auto parts store might even have it
I have taken my 2011 bmw x5 xdrive35i to 3 different shops and they have not been able to find the problem, the last one told me that the ecu needs to be replaced, i am going to look for that hose and let you know if that fixes this issue.
I'm just another echo in the chorus of thank yous. The rubber hose was split on mine and, thus, was barely holding onto the nipple. Cut that sucker off, reattached, and done.
Note to others: Getting it back on is challenge unless you take off the air duct that sits over it. So, not quite as quick of a fix as it might seem, but still no more than a 10-minute job.
Awesome video, you save my day man.
God may bless you brother thanks 🙏
Hi I got just once engine fault reduced power on my x1 sdi 2011 and does not show again. Should i be concerned or was it a glitch.
Thank you
I have a 2008 bmw 335i drive sedan, it gives me the same problem , what can I check first to diagnose the issue, I have to cel.
Where did you get the silicon hose with the connector?
Hi I’ve got the same problem with my BMW 320i 2007
Q1 ; where did you find the code?
Q2 ; there’s no code indicating any where!
Q3 ; where should I check it first?
Thank you
Where's this bad nightmare located on f10? Mine runs from the vacuum pump near the valve cover on passenger side and disappears!
Thanks for doing this video. Very helpful. I got this warning last night on my 2013 X5 35i 108k miles. I did check the hose, and it was still attached firmly. Even though I didn't remove it, there was no sign of cracking when I felt it. Also, checked the charge pipe driver side and looked fine. I searched for a while to find a DIY replacing the booster selenoid and found a good video. FYI, here is the link in case someone needs to know how to replace it. - th-cam.com/video/TNx1MrW6dmc/w-d-xo.html - I still have to scan for codes, but in the end I may just have to start with replacing the selenoid and see if that clears the fault code. Trying to avoid the mechanic emptying my pockets 😎
Hey I jusr ordered boost solenoids literally 5 min ago on fcp euro, was that was your problem was? I scanned it with mhd and my mechanic said most likely boost solenoids
@@JustAiM_Nick
What was your car problems ?? What alarm and message on your screen?
@@JustAiM_Nickdid the boost solenoid fix it?
did the boost solenoid fix it?
@@matejovich sure did bro, I replaced both of them
Any problem with that silicone line collapsed every time it feels vacuum vacuum? The reason the vacuum winds are kind of rigid It's too prevent Collapse.
NO problems with silicone line
Anyone know where I can get the hose extension
how did you get the error code
I have 2011 x5 xdrive50 can’t find this horse. I have engine malfunction reduce
I can't see it through can you show me clearly?
My has this code p1062 and p1033 what’s this? Thanks
BMW is the acronym for Bring Money Weekly....ask me how I know!
couldn't agree more. I thought my prior Mercedes Benz ML was expensive to maintain. My BMW X5 is FAR MORE EXPENSIVE and has more oil leaks at 100,000 miles than my ML had at 200,000!
More like breaking my wallet
Big Money Wasted fits as well sadly
Have a code for 2c58 wondering if it's in the same area
2911n55 owner here- exactly- after acceleration runs and goes away after turning off for a while
I HAV CQDE CF2915 ENGINE SPEED FROZEN SIGNAL WHAT IS MY ISSUE!!! $$$$$
Mine is doing this same thing but I'm getting code 3166, 2DCE, 2EOF, 2BCO, and 2BEA. Any advice?
Sorry, I have no experience with those codes. But those codes I think indicate Valvetronic related problems. Good luck.
Replaced the valve tronic on mine its a pain. Then you have to take it in to bmw to get it reprogrammed.. It tells the engine the timing for the gears i think 🤔. But it was annoying in the Freeway...
Not solved my problem
Where did you connect it ?
it's very hard to see. This video shows the braided jacket vac hose and connection to the boost solenoid at around 7:53 th-cam.com/video/TNx1MrW6dmc/w-d-xo.html
The boost solenoid has 2 vacuum lines and 1 electrical connector.
I’m just now getting this on mines
😮😢😂