I have not gotten a reply. but i will try today and update. this is EXACTLY what i have been asking all over youtube. (Where does the upper and lower radiator lines connect back to)?. Since we had to do the same/ remove the rubber lines from metal line. I see the bottom line from radiator goes to the shorter rubber line. wow. Today I plan to do this. have been asking for months. This is pure DIVINE INTERVENTION. as your channel did not pop up when ever I asked around for this answer. God definitely knew before hand today will be that day I decided to take a chance and fihure this out on my own. I was worried Id blow another radiator.. connecting those lines wrong. God bless you..some more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My jeep has a leak in the same spot that yours cracked open. Its a very small hair line crack. Must be a problem in 2003 4L set up.Will be doing this real soon don't want it open up like yours out on the road some where.Thanks for all the info
already to drop my new radiator in, but can't get it to fit. It is exactly like the old one. I noticed your video didn't include putting the new one in. Any wisdom on this subject? How to get new radiator back in.
+chevytxutube Sorry for the delay. We were out of town with no connection. I hope you have been able to resolve your issue by now, but if not, check the feet on the bottom of the radiator and make sure they are the same. If I remember correctly, there are some rubber boots that fit where if sits into the radiator support.
I disconnected the trans line ..was only way to remove the radiator and upper until I thought.. i could have cut it... to keep them in place to know where they each connect back to Help a girl out
Is the inside of the radiator got a hole in it or do I need to check the lines and fix your pressure test on it I need to know when the coolant is going into the tr milkyansmission and turning
OMG have searching for this, have a question. I was not able to budge those lines off the radiator so I disconnected the lines. I didnt check to see how the lines go back. meaning does does the lower radiator metal line connect back to the lower line from trans or vice versa? help a girl out.
Is the inside of the radiator got a hole in it or do I need to check the lines and fix your pressure test on it I need to know when the coolant is going into the transmission and turning
I'm trying to change my radiator now but I can't seem to get the bottom transmission line loose. Would you recommend taking the hose clamp off and trying to remove the hose and if so is there a trick to getting the hose off the line? I slid the clamp up but I can't get the hose to slid off and I'm afraid I'm going to end up breaking it. Any help would be great!
As you saw, I had to disconnect the rubber hoses from the metal lines by removing the hose clamps. Once the clamp is slid back, you may have to grip the rubber hose lightly with pliers to try to get the rubber hose to slip on the metal line. If you have enough slack in the rubber line you can also cut the rubber line and then cut the rubber hose off of the metal line once the radiator is removed. Good luck getting it off!
lol I just did this on mine the trans cooler lines are just retarded to remove ha ha I took the whole metal line off once I got it out. had to bend the top one just a bit to do it. I will work on them this week getting them free from the mountings. if not I will just buy new ones. thanks for doing this video made me feel a little better that I am not the only one that had trouble with those lines lol.
Trey Clanton heat anything plastic or rubber and it will come off easier. If it's below 40f you almost have to. It helps keep from breaking those flimsy plastic clips on wiring harnesses too and just makes the job go easier.
Trey. Thanks for the video on the jeep Cherokee radiator removal. my son has a leak in about the same spot as yours but not quite as bad yet. and like yours the idler guide pully was bad and broke the belt, I did get that part fixed. Thats when I noticed the radiator leaking by the upper hose. so my sons jeep has two fans one is electric, And one is belt driven and attaches to water pump bracket did yours have that also, Was wondering if I'm gonna have to remove that fan to get the shroud and elec fan out. like I said not sure if yours had that other fan. thanks for your time. Mike
Mike Small Hello! Yes, hers did have a mechanical fan. I managed to sneak the radiator out without removing the fan if I remember correctly. It may be just as easy to remove it though. It’s pretty tight getting everything clear with the fan in place.
Thanks Trey for the quick reply. think I will take the four nuts out of the fan and remove it to make more room. hopefully I can maneuver it and get it out around the shroud area first. thanks again. Mike
The only reason why I watched this video was to watch you pull the radiator out and put the new on in I'm about to take mine out tomorrow if you could just enlighten me or give me any pointers that would be greatly appreciated
Jordan Pavlic it can be quite a challenging job. Just take it one step at a time. First empty the radiator and remove the hoses. Then take off the top radiator support bracket (where the hood latch is). Remove the fan shroud, remove the bolts holding the AC condenser coil to the radiator, remove the two radiator mounting bolts (one on each side). Then remove the transmission coolant lines. Finally, start patiently wiggling the radiator up and out. Installation is simply the reverse. Good luck with it!
Jordan Pavlic If the trans cooler lines give you any grief, just disconnect the rubber line and deal with it outside of the car. I would have saved myself time if I had done that.
To ANYONE having a difficult time removing/replacing the factory transmission lines, it's very simple... DO NOT use the factory transmission cooler... Always use an external transmission cooler, preferably a plate-on-plate design, like B&M (or even a less expensive fin-on-tube design will work) in front of the A/C condenser (which, as you know, sits in front of the radiator) and use AN fittings with stainless steel braided hose. Think about this in the most basic way...The factory transmission cooler is INSIDE the driver's-side plastic tank of the radiator and is surrounded by extremely hot water (almost 200°) that, somehow, "cools" it? Now what would a wise person think would cool a hot liquid down... fresh, cool air blowing across a transmission cooler or a metal tank inside of a plastic tank with extremely hot water running around it? Now I know someone is going to reply that this design helps warm up your transmission fluid in the winter if you live up north, BUT that just proves my point that the radiator heats up your transmission fluid. The factory simply uses the least expensive, no, I will say CHEAP parts in order to maximize their profit margin. Why do you think they use plastic-tanked radiators instead of metal-tanked ones like they used to do? What they say is that plastic is lighter, which saves weight and therefore helps you get better gas mileage. But what they don't say is that the aluminum/plastic radiator is far less expensive than the much better brass/copper or even aluminum/aluminum radiators, and therefore increases profit by lowering production costs. Besides, plastic-tanked radiators cannot even be repaired when the tank cracks/fails, like a brass or aluminum tanks, which can be welded. EVERY single plastic-tanked radiator that I've ever seen with a leak is 100% of the time due to a crack in the plastic tank, NOT the aluminum core... EVER!! If someone plans on keeping their vehicle for a long time, like most Jeep owners, then forking out money for the same, cheap replacement radiators (or other vital replacement parts) which break after only so many years, is not the most intelligent way to go. Besides, plastic-tanked radiators do not cool as efficiently as brass-tanked/copper-core or aluminum tanked/aluminum-core radiators... it's simple physics/metallurgy. I've used Flex-a-lite full aluminum radiators & their electric fans in MANY vehicles with great success, plus they have slots in the aluminum tanks for t-bolts that hold brackets for transmission or power steering coolers to be mounted on the front side plus electric fans mounted on the rear side. That solves a lot of mounting problems. I also like the stainless steel flexible radiator hoses, which I use with silicone ends and heavy-duty t-bo stainless lt hose clamps. Another must I always do is add a high-volume water pump from Flowkooler, whether or not I have installed a better radiator than the stock crap. And finally, after installing an external transmission cooler, a higher-end metal-tanked radiator with electric fan(s), a high-volume water pump, and stainless steel flexible hoses... one might as well use Evan's NPG waterless coolant. Yes, it's expensive but we'll worth it. Read their website thoroughly to know more. Anyways, I hope this helps someone out.
That is not a bad plan at all. I will say that the factory standard approach works, but the fittings are certainly a challenge. So far the factory approach has worked well for 250,000 miles on this one.
You should have dropped a new electric fan in there, or installed a fan clutch and fan to the water pump, which is something else you should have replaced because you already had everything out of the way. You also should have put in a new thermostat because from the look of that radiator your cooling system is full of corroded water, doing this would have cost you about an extra $175, but well worth it if your were going to keep the Jeep for a while.
Hello Sir. There is a transmission fluid cooler inside the radiator. If that cooler has failed, then you could be getting coolant into the transmission. It isn’t repairable. It requires replacing the radiator with a new one. Pretty sure that will resolve the problem.
Thank you for sharing your experience in replacing and re-installing this radiator. It has been a big help to anticipate what I'm up against!
I have not gotten a reply. but i will try today and update. this is EXACTLY what i have been asking all over youtube. (Where does the upper and lower radiator lines connect back to)?. Since we had to do the same/ remove the rubber lines from metal line. I see the bottom line from radiator goes to the shorter rubber line. wow. Today I plan to do this. have been asking for months. This is pure DIVINE INTERVENTION. as your channel did not pop up when ever I asked around for this answer. God definitely knew before hand today will be that day I decided to take a chance and fihure this out on my own. I was worried Id blow another radiator.. connecting those lines wrong. God bless you..some more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My jeep has a leak in the same spot that yours cracked open. Its a very small hair line crack. Must be a problem in 2003 4L set up.Will be doing this real soon don't want it
open up like yours out on the road some where.Thanks for all the info
already to drop my new radiator in, but can't get it to fit. It is exactly like the old one. I noticed your video didn't include putting the new one in. Any wisdom on this subject? How to get new radiator back in.
+chevytxutube Sorry for the delay. We were out of town with no connection. I hope you have been able to resolve your issue by now, but if not, check the feet on the bottom of the radiator and make sure they are the same. If I remember correctly, there are some rubber boots that fit where if sits into the radiator support.
I disconnected the trans line ..was only way to remove the radiator and upper until I thought.. i could have cut it... to keep them in place to know where they each connect back to
Help a girl out
Looks like what I'm starting on for my cousin at least the bust in radiator looks exactly same belt intact though?
Is the inside of the radiator got a hole in it or do I need to check the lines and fix your pressure test on it I need to know when the coolant is going into the tr milkyansmission and turning
OMG have searching for this, have a question.
I was not able to budge those lines off the radiator so I disconnected the lines. I didnt check to see how the lines go back. meaning does does the lower radiator metal line connect back to the lower line from trans or vice versa? help a girl out.
Is the inside of the radiator got a hole in it or do I need to check the lines and fix your pressure test on it I need to know when the coolant is going into the transmission and turning
How can a radiator put liquid in the transmission to have it come out
I'm trying to change my radiator now but I can't seem to get the bottom transmission line loose. Would you recommend taking the hose clamp off and trying to remove the hose and if so is there a trick to getting the hose off the line? I slid the clamp up but I can't get the hose to slid off and I'm afraid I'm going to end up breaking it. Any help would be great!
As you saw, I had to disconnect the rubber hoses from the metal lines by removing the hose clamps. Once the clamp is slid back, you may have to grip the rubber hose lightly with pliers to try to get the rubber hose to slip on the metal line. If you have enough slack in the rubber line you can also cut the rubber line and then cut the rubber hose off of the metal line once the radiator is removed. Good luck getting it off!
lol I just did this on mine the trans cooler lines are just retarded to remove ha ha I took the whole metal line off once I got it out. had to bend the top one just a bit to do it. I will work on them this week getting them free from the mountings. if not I will just buy new ones. thanks for doing this video made me feel a little better that I am not the only one that had trouble with those lines lol.
how did you get the sensor off your lines
Trey Clanton heat anything plastic or rubber and it will come off easier. If it's below 40f you almost have to. It helps keep from breaking those flimsy plastic clips on wiring harnesses too and just makes the job go easier.
Trey. Thanks for the video on the jeep Cherokee radiator removal. my son has a leak in about the same spot as yours but not quite as bad yet. and like yours the idler guide pully was bad and broke the belt, I did get that part fixed. Thats when I noticed the radiator leaking by the upper hose. so my sons jeep has two fans one is electric, And one is belt driven and attaches to water pump bracket did yours have that also, Was wondering if I'm gonna have to remove that fan to get the shroud and elec fan out. like I said not sure if yours had that other fan. thanks for your time. Mike
Mike Small Hello! Yes, hers did have a mechanical fan. I managed to sneak the radiator out without removing the fan if I remember correctly. It may be just as easy to remove it though. It’s pretty tight getting everything clear with the fan in place.
Thanks Trey for the quick reply. think I will take the four nuts out of the fan and remove it to make more room. hopefully I can maneuver it and get it out around the shroud area first. thanks again. Mike
mine is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
Plus it's been sitting out for several years now I need to know
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
how did you remove the sensor to replace the radiator? I can't figure out how to take mine off
jason becker nmiff
You are a awesome dad.
The only reason why I watched this video was to watch you pull the radiator out and put the new on in I'm about to take mine out tomorrow if you could just enlighten me or give me any pointers that would be greatly appreciated
Jordan Pavlic it can be quite a challenging job. Just take it one step at a time. First empty the radiator and remove the hoses. Then take off the top radiator support bracket (where the hood latch is). Remove the fan shroud, remove the bolts holding the AC condenser coil to the radiator, remove the two radiator mounting bolts (one on each side). Then remove the transmission coolant lines. Finally, start patiently wiggling the radiator up and out. Installation is simply the reverse. Good luck with it!
Trey Clanton thanks, the next steps I have are the mounting bolts for the radiator and then the trans cooler lines, I'm almost there!
Jordan Pavlic If the trans cooler lines give you any grief, just disconnect the rubber line and deal with it outside of the car. I would have saved myself time if I had done that.
To ANYONE having a difficult time removing/replacing the factory transmission lines, it's very simple... DO NOT use the factory transmission cooler... Always use an external transmission cooler, preferably a plate-on-plate design, like B&M (or even a less expensive fin-on-tube design will work) in front of the A/C condenser (which, as you know, sits in front of the radiator) and use AN fittings with stainless steel braided hose. Think about this in the most basic way...The factory transmission cooler is INSIDE the driver's-side plastic tank of the radiator and is surrounded by extremely hot water (almost 200°) that, somehow, "cools" it? Now what would a wise person think would cool a hot liquid down... fresh, cool air blowing across a transmission cooler or a metal tank inside of a plastic tank with extremely hot water running around it? Now I know someone is going to reply that this design helps warm up your transmission fluid in the winter if you live up north, BUT that just proves my point that the radiator heats up your transmission fluid. The factory simply uses the least expensive, no, I will say CHEAP parts in order to maximize their profit margin. Why do you think they use plastic-tanked radiators instead of metal-tanked ones like they used to do? What they say is that plastic is lighter, which saves weight and therefore helps you get better gas mileage. But what they don't say is that the aluminum/plastic radiator is far less expensive than the much better brass/copper or even aluminum/aluminum radiators, and therefore increases profit by lowering production costs. Besides, plastic-tanked radiators cannot even be repaired when the tank cracks/fails, like a brass or aluminum tanks, which can be welded. EVERY single plastic-tanked radiator that I've ever seen with a leak is 100% of the time due to a crack in the plastic tank, NOT the aluminum core... EVER!! If someone plans on keeping their vehicle for a long time, like most Jeep owners, then forking out money for the same, cheap replacement radiators (or other vital replacement parts) which break after only so many years, is not the most intelligent way to go. Besides, plastic-tanked radiators do not cool as efficiently as brass-tanked/copper-core or aluminum tanked/aluminum-core radiators... it's simple physics/metallurgy. I've used Flex-a-lite full aluminum radiators & their electric fans in MANY vehicles with great success, plus they have slots in the aluminum tanks for t-bolts that hold brackets for transmission or power steering coolers to be mounted on the front side plus electric fans mounted on the rear side. That solves a lot of mounting problems. I also like the stainless steel flexible radiator hoses, which I use with silicone ends and heavy-duty t-bo stainless lt hose clamps. Another must I always do is add a high-volume water pump from Flowkooler, whether or not I have installed a better radiator than the stock crap. And finally, after installing an external transmission cooler, a higher-end metal-tanked radiator with electric fan(s), a high-volume water pump, and stainless steel flexible hoses... one might as well use Evan's NPG waterless coolant. Yes, it's expensive but we'll worth it. Read their website thoroughly to know more. Anyways, I hope this helps someone out.
That is not a bad plan at all. I will say that the factory standard approach works, but the fittings are certainly a challenge. So far the factory approach has worked well for 250,000 miles on this one.
Some sound advice .
You didn’t show any of the steps, you just described them. And for a person that’s doing this their first time, it was not helpful.
please help
You should have dropped a new electric fan in there, or installed a fan clutch and fan to the water pump, which is something else you should have replaced because you already had everything out of the way. You also should have put in a new thermostat because from the look of that radiator your cooling system is full of corroded water, doing this would have cost you about an extra $175, but well worth it if your were going to keep the Jeep for a while.
Never....EVER lay an electric fan down, on its face, horizontally like the one in this video!!
Seriously? 4 commercials in the first 60 seconds??? I'm out.
Transmission gets radiator coolant in the transmission is the line busted or is the inside of the radiator
How can a radiator put liquid in the transmission to have it come out
Plus it's been sitting out for several years now I need to know
mine is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
Your fitting is faulty. Replace the radiator.
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
Plus it's been sitting out for several years now I need to know
Hello Sir. There is a transmission fluid cooler inside the radiator. If that cooler has failed, then you could be getting coolant into the transmission. It isn’t repairable. It requires replacing the radiator with a new one. Pretty sure that will resolve the problem.
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom plop radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom plop radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom plop radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good
my jeep is leaking from the bottom radiator transmission hose should i just tigthin it the radiator still good
mine is leaking from the bottom plop radiator transmission hose should I just tight it. radiator is still good