Glad I don't need to rent a cat for this job... Excellent video! Many thanks! I believe this is causing a loud CLUMP noise when I turn my wheels to far right... It looks like two metal pieces jumping or clashing... I might be a pinion tooth sliding and jumping over the rack teeth... It would sound EXACTLY like what I am having on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006. Thanks a lot!
Great video! Just what i was looking for. May i suggest turning your pliers the other way around to where the lower jaw is the bottom pressure application point on the nut rather than the top. For instance, when loosening (counter-clockwise) and tightening (clockwise) the lower jaw should always be leading the turn (being the shorter jaw applying pressure) and the upper jaw is always lagging the turn (being the longer jaw as the grabbing point). Just some constructive criticism - food for thought.
Will this work for a car that wanders at highway speeds, when the wind blows car goes with the wind while holding the wheel straight, hitting cracks pulls left and right. Sitting still moving the wheel left and right has a clunk on both sides of the rack
It sounds like your issue may involve more than just the steering rack preload. While adjusting preload can reduce play in the steering, the clunking and wandering you're describing could also be caused by worn tie rods, bushings, or even alignment issues. I’d recommend checking the tie rods, control arm bushings, and suspension components first, as they can contribute to instability at highway speeds and when hitting bumps. If everything else checks out, adjusting the preload on the rack might help, but it’s important to address any worn parts first.
@da64wdiy what size did you end up using? The closest reference I got was a 10 year old forum of a guy using a 24mm hex bit! All the tubular spanner sets I see only go up to 22mm and my calipers don't fit lol I'd hate to buy a whole set just to find the size or find out 22mm isn't big enough 😂 Definitely wouldn't be my first time though, there's a reason I buy metric tools and metric cars! I don't wanna double my tools I got too many in just metric 😅
My mechanic did this and im still getting alot of clunk noise only over bumpy roads. What should i do. All other suspension bushings and parts are good
clunk noise over bumps is usually from sway bar links; quick diag is to unbolt both, set them aside and drive the car over bumps and see if it goes away, if it does, then replace the sway bar links. Worn ball joints are easier to spot since they will have play, unless the sway bar links are really worn, then those will have play by hand but the clunky noise does not have play but will have visual corrosion, they usually fail when exposed to the environment when the boot rips, etc.
That means mechanics on your city trained from vulcanizing shops 😂 you saw that piece of metal he pulled out shaped like a crescent shape metal. That half moon thing thins out overtime thus there would be an allowance. Grease thins out too. This is a maintenance adjustment that evry mechanic should know.. its like tightening the serpentine belt on the engine when it thins out and starts squeeking.. you dont replace the belt right away just adjust the tension in the belt. Duh
@benedictcumberbatch9844 man! Mine is a 2011 also. Very frustrating. Recently she's been having lots of "things" come up with it. I still haven't tried to mess with the rack. But I can feel it, now driving on snow it feels unstable, almost as if my lug nuts are loose. I have recently chnaged the inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, stabilizer bar bushings, both cv axles, and 1 bad uca. If tightening the rack does not work, might have to do a new one. Pain. Trying to see the best aftermarket rack and pinion just in case. Will try this first before I bite the bullet.
Baka hindi lang loose parts ang problema. Mas magandang i-check ang suspension, CV joints, o manibela ng sasakyan mo. Para sure, dalhin mo na sa mekaniko para masuri ng maayos.
I had a serious bad klunk in a new rebuilt R&P. with 500 miles on it. The installer gave up on this noise. Sounded like the wheel was gonna break off on a turn. So I got the front wheels off the ground, turned that nut in about a 2/3 turn and backed off. Most of that klunking was gone now and the steering was nice and tight. But the damage was done from all the klunking done by loose gears skipping from a loose setting. And so had to replace the R&P again. This time I got a Toyota factory rebuilt one. And this time I knew what to do if there was anymore Klunks. Sure enough even with a Toyota factory rebuild R&P there was that klunk. The same shop gave up again. I was like whatever. I got home...jacked up the Truck right away, before the R&P gears got damaged again. Sure enough the setting was way too loose. I turned that nut in 2/3 turn, backed off slightly and waalaaa !! Nice' n Tight... Rack and Pinion and No...more... gear klunks !! Funny and crazy thing was how the shop would laugh about TH-camr fix it videos that people watch !!! Well this Vid. done what bench shops and shops wouldn't do...set them gears firm and snug. Loose settings is not good at all. They just replace the racks. Thanks again.
Do not do this. If your rack has a dead zone, and you increase preload, you increase the chance of binding up the rack once outside of your “dead zone” You only do this on new racks, that come out of adjustment. You only do this if you have a “constant” tightness or looseness from lock to lock that isn’t variable. Basically, you should never do this. That’s not there for you to take up the slack from wearing your rack down. Thats there because of how a rack and pinion works. TH-cam is the perfect example of “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”
Mine has the same play all throughout the rack, at all points. Would it be okay to give tightening it a go? Something to note, it only occurs with weight on the wheels. When in the air, there is no play whatsoever.
I love the shop help you keep around. It makes a word of a difference to have a meowing good apprentice lol
Took a lot of searching to find a video about this for some reason thank you for having one and with a whole bunch of cats which is kind of cool LOL
Glad you found it helpful! The cats love to be part of the action :D
What size kitty is required for this adjustment?
Lol
Yes. One should always do a cat scan.
😂
That question may be a bit too personal for him to answer 🤔
Thanks for showing me the simple tools.
Glad I don't need to rent a cat for this job... Excellent video! Many thanks! I believe this is causing a loud CLUMP noise when I turn my wheels to far right... It looks like two metal pieces jumping or clashing... I might be a pinion tooth sliding and jumping over the rack teeth... It would sound EXACTLY like what I am having on my Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006. Thanks a lot!
Shop kitty made this video soooo much better. Everyone needs a shop kitty! 🐈
Thank you cat mechanic, I was looking for a solution normal humans couldnt provide
Honestly good video got a cat that likes to help to. Video makes sense
good thing you got yourself an inspector🐈⬛
Great video! Just what i was looking for.
May i suggest turning your pliers the other way around to where the lower jaw is the bottom pressure application point on the nut rather than the top.
For instance, when loosening (counter-clockwise) and tightening (clockwise) the lower jaw should always be leading the turn (being the shorter jaw applying pressure) and the upper jaw is always lagging the turn (being the longer jaw as the grabbing point).
Just some constructive criticism - food for thought.
This actually makes a difference ... Thanks
straight to the point! thanks
Will this work for a car that wanders at highway speeds, when the wind blows car goes with the wind while holding the wheel straight, hitting cracks pulls left and right. Sitting still moving the wheel left and right has a clunk on both sides of the rack
It sounds like your issue may involve more than just the steering rack preload. While adjusting preload can reduce play in the steering, the clunking and wandering you're describing could also be caused by worn tie rods, bushings, or even alignment issues. I’d recommend checking the tie rods, control arm bushings, and suspension components first, as they can contribute to instability at highway speeds and when hitting bumps. If everything else checks out, adjusting the preload on the rack might help, but it’s important to address any worn parts first.
Now that's a well explained example
Thanks good video. Some racks have a backlsh adjustment too.
Did you just lift up that white cat so it's could double check your work? Lol
Manual steering rack is the same for all ef models?
I'm not sure.
thank you sir its help a lot God bless po.
Would this solve popping of the rack and pinion and having the steering wheel move out of alignment?
I'm trying to pull out that crescent piece that pushes against the rack and it won't budge. Any suggestions?
I used alligator pliers to remove it 1:01.
This bolt fixed click in the low speed ?I replace tie end but not noise stay
Could be a cv joint on you're axle. Does it click during tight low speed cornering
What is the tool you are using to remove the adjustment screw?
Tubular spanner.
Vice grip tool name
What size of tubular spanner @@da64wdiy
What tool is that to remove the nut
Tubular spanner.
White cat needs gloves or a different job. Good to count the turns on the nut when removing so to know where point "a" was. Thanks for the vid.
What is the tool you are using to tighten the rack and pinion? Thanks
The tool is a tubular spanner or spark plug socket wrench. The sets can be seen at this time 1:26.
Tub socket set
@da64wdiy what size did you end up using?
The closest reference I got was a 10 year old forum of a guy using a 24mm hex bit!
All the tubular spanner sets I see only go up to 22mm and my calipers don't fit lol I'd hate to buy a whole set just to find the size or find out 22mm isn't big enough 😂
Definitely wouldn't be my first time though, there's a reason I buy metric tools and metric cars! I don't wanna double my tools I got too many in just metric 😅
My mechanic did this and im still getting alot of clunk noise only over bumpy roads. What should i do. All other suspension bushings and parts are good
It might be a good idea to get a second opinion from another mechanic.
clunk noise over bumps is usually from sway bar links; quick diag is to unbolt both, set them aside and drive the car over bumps and see if it goes away, if it does, then replace the sway bar links. Worn ball joints are easier to spot since they will have play, unless the sway bar links are really worn, then those will have play by hand but the clunky noise does not have play but will have visual corrosion, they usually fail when exposed to the environment when the boot rips, etc.
Love how the supervisor inspecs before finishing
I dont know man, but most of the the mechanic asked me to change the rack, it is like they dont even know or at least try to adjust this
Yeah, try to adjust first before changing the rack.
That means mechanics on your city trained from vulcanizing shops 😂 you saw that piece of metal he pulled out shaped like a crescent shape metal. That half moon thing thins out overtime thus there would be an allowance. Grease thins out too. This is a maintenance adjustment that evry mechanic should know.. its like tightening the serpentine belt on the engine when it thins out and starts squeeking.. you dont replace the belt right away just adjust the tension in the belt. Duh
Would this be accurate on the majority of vehicles using a rack and pinion system. Not electrical? My ram 1500 may need this
@@ryanv7195same problem here bro what year is yours ? I have a 2011 I wanna try this but I don’t wanna mess crap up
@benedictcumberbatch9844 man! Mine is a 2011 also. Very frustrating. Recently she's been having lots of "things" come up with it. I still haven't tried to mess with the rack. But I can feel it, now driving on snow it feels unstable, almost as if my lug nuts are loose. I have recently chnaged the inner and outer tie rods, sway bar links, stabilizer bar bushings, both cv axles, and 1 bad uca. If tightening the rack does not work, might have to do a new one. Pain. Trying to see the best aftermarket rack and pinion just in case. Will try this first before I bite the bullet.
I knew he meant business. He was not kitten around 😎
Cat is very important for this procedure
What type of grease did you use ? Thanks
I used grease 3.
What kind of grease should we need?
I used grease 3.
What if I dont have kitten approval... will it still be ok?
As long as the car’s running, you should be fine without kitten approval 😸
Pag naliko ako kaliwa or kanan may clunking possible maluwag lang po ba talaga?
Baka hindi lang loose parts ang problema. Mas magandang i-check ang suspension, CV joints, o manibela ng sasakyan mo. Para sure, dalhin mo na sa mekaniko para masuri ng maayos.
Us just regular lubricant or special one?
I used grease 3.
Boss anu twag jn mag order po Sana Ako pang hi ace cumuter
My steering is tight. Should I loosen the adjustment a bit?
You can try it and compare the differences.
So any update sir?did you fix it?
sir ung sakin tumatabingi po sa ang manibela, pinatuwid qna po pero bumabalik parin tabingi. yan po ba ung inaadjust?
Hindi po yan ang inaadjust. Baka po hindi naka-align ang tire nyo kaya tumatabingi ang manebela. Tie rod po ang inaadjust pag ganun.
Same boss. Lumilipat left-to-right right-to-left. Tuwid naman takbo ng auto ko.
May nakita na po kayo solution boss? Napagawa nyo na po?
Gumagalaw ung rack boss pag nilalaro mo ung manibela.Bushing daw boss ng rack ang papalalitan
@@renatoburaga4748 Oo, pweding sira ang bushing nyan.
Thanks Alot
For Lexus ES350 / Toyota Camry adjustment I used 44771 M16-2.00 Metric Hex Coupling Nut
Thank you sa pusa na tinuruan ka mg ayos ng steering rack 😅😅
To make sure job is well done. Cats are absolully necessary..😅
What car?
Can be applied to any vehicle.
Ilang mm po yung hex po? Salamat
Set po kasi yung tools, di malinaw dun sa label kung anong size. 14mm nung sinukat ko gamit ang digital caliper.
I had a serious bad klunk in a new rebuilt R&P. with 500 miles on it. The installer gave up on this noise. Sounded like the wheel was gonna break off on a turn.
So I got the front wheels off the ground, turned that nut in about a 2/3 turn and backed off. Most of that klunking was gone now and the steering was nice and tight. But the damage was done from all the klunking done by loose gears skipping from a loose setting. And so had to replace the R&P again. This time I got a Toyota factory rebuilt one. And this time I knew what to do if there was anymore Klunks. Sure enough even with a Toyota factory rebuild R&P there was that klunk. The same shop gave up again. I was like whatever. I got home...jacked up the Truck right away, before the R&P gears got damaged again. Sure enough the setting was way too loose. I turned that nut in 2/3 turn, backed off slightly and waalaaa !!
Nice' n Tight... Rack and Pinion and No...more... gear klunks !!
Funny and crazy thing was how the shop would laugh about TH-camr fix it videos that people watch !!! Well this Vid. done what bench shops and shops wouldn't do...set them gears firm and snug. Loose settings is not good at all. They just replace the racks.
Thanks again.
What kind of grease do you use and what is the tool to remove the screw?
I used grease 3 and the tool is spark plug wrench set.
Pwede po ba 'to sa hydraulic power steering? Salamat po in advance
Pwede po sir.
Never mind my adjustment pad is cramed behind the frame, fuckin dumb, not really accessible
cat inspector : )
😹
Zaber, 10
Mechanic cat
The cat. Came to inspect
Do not do this. If your rack has a dead zone, and you increase preload, you increase the chance of binding up the rack once outside of your “dead zone”
You only do this on new racks, that come out of adjustment.
You only do this if you have a “constant” tightness or looseness from lock to lock that isn’t variable.
Basically, you should never do this. That’s not there for you to take up the slack from wearing your rack down. Thats there because of how a rack and pinion works.
TH-cam is the perfect example of “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”
Is there any reason not to set it back to manufacturer spec on older worn racks?
Mine has the same play all throughout the rack, at all points. Would it be okay to give tightening it a go?
Something to note, it only occurs with weight on the wheels. When in the air, there is no play whatsoever.