The big nut you took off is actually used to set clearance between bearing and rack, used to build steering racks for Aussie Oem (Delphi Automotive Systems). The little plug in the nut is where the micrometer would measure while putting 10n on the pinion with rack locked in place, usually about 75micron. It is used to set turning torque which is on center feel without the Pinion valve being activated, so no hydraulic assistance. Think of small adjustments while freeway driving. There is a spec to adjust to hence why the nut is loctited into place.
Exact same problem in the BMW E60. Very common. ZF 7852 On these steering rack models, unlike the E46, the column shaft coupler has no rubber flex disk which is supposed to absorb all the suspension stress going to the steering column. Instead, the stress is absorbed by that teflon yoke which wears out prematurely. ZF instructs to replace the whole yoke assembly and applying a special loctite grease to the yoke (Part 1 and 2). Then torque the nut to 12nm, peel and reloosen it by 5 graduation marks as follows: Turn the adjusting screw (34) 5 graduation marks back (loosen it) and then screw it 1 graduation mark in again. Rotate the steering gear to mid position, so that the rackprojection (relative to the steering lockstop) is equal at either side. Fit tools [23] to restrict the rack stroke to 1...3 mm. Fit tool [20] and a commercially available dial gauge. Using tool [9], rotate the rotary valve (81) to the left and to the right (torque approx. 12 Nm) and measure the yoke play. Specified value: 0.1 mm maximum Adjust the yoke play by turning at the adjusting screw (34). If the adjusting screw (34) is turned 1 graduation mark, this corresponds to a change in yoke play of 0.05 mm. Without altering the yoke play setting, check the loosening torque at the adjusting screw (34). Test value: 1.5 Nm minimum Insert the plug (34.3). Check: There must not be any sticking of the steering gear when rotated through its total stroke. Mark the definitive position of the adjusting screw (34) with marking ink (at any place on the circumference).
Wish I found this before replacing my whole front end (Upper and lower control arms, shocks and springs, drop links, anti-roll bushes and even the steering column) chasing that knock. Ironically, a used replacement rack I put in had the same knock so was dumbfounded until I found the pre-load yoke. Keep up making brilliant content, could be saving someone thousands!
I’ve done the exact same thing, replace all control arms, sway bar links, and struts, inner and outer tie Rod ends and I still have clunking noise. A mechanic told me it’s the steering column. Please help!
Another steering rack related fix that can cause a noise (not for your problem specifically - but just noting it for others to try) - sometimes the bolts that hold the rack to the subframe get loose and you can snug em up. Mine I had to get a wrench on the back side of the nut to tighten down because it would spin when you tighten it the normal way. Also the strut hats / bearings seem to collapse over time and might bind up when turning.
is the procedure the same for vehicles with active steering? Vehicle is an E82 with N55 engine built 10.2010... BTW Great Content, Greets from Bavaria :)
I had the same problem and found out the steering rack was making contact with the heat shield! Plus for extra precaution changed power steering fluid!
I’ve been putting this off on mine for a while. Started after I replaced my steering rack with a used M3 one, including a used lower steering shaft assembly (tbh, the shaft, for no reason). But I also dropped the subframe to do oil pan gasket too. So multi can’t isolate to a single changed part unfortunately. I’m going to put my old lower steering shaft back first with two new aluminum bolts and see if it fixes anything. I don’t know the history of the used m3 rack maybe it’s coming from that…. Will also double check all suspension components. Ideally I wanna shimmy the wheel with car on ground. But of course that’s difficult without a lift.
This is a very common issue on the F20’s. I did the repair on my M135i and it’s amazing, feels like a new car. 6 months or so it did need a ‘nip’ up - realistically only a mm or two of movement and it’s back to where it was 👍
I only recently found a thread on the F series doing it and that is what got me on the path to checking mine on this car. In hindsight, a nip up probably would have been fine, but at least i got to pull it apart and see what they look like in there.
@@ZeroTo60Tube it might be worth checking on RealOEM if there has been a change in part design. The one I bought and replaced on mine was totally diffract and metal rather than plastic. I assume they were wearing and causing play.
I have searched on this for weeks after replacing and checking everything in the front end of my e60 and not only is the same noise but you have a fix for it. Thank you!
Mate you can VISUALLY see the play in you steering coupler its a bushing that wears out especially after moving around the rack while connect to the steering column still, idk why you took that whole rack apart honestlly i didnt even know you can take that out lmao, but bro i have the same play and clunking and i got mines after fucking with my steering rack doing my tie rods then noticed the play after changing them, when you move around or fucking with the rack while its still connected to the steering column you are going to damage the steering coupler and thats what causes that play, its very delicate and its like $400. i promise if you replace that bro you will be fine, ima do mines soon but it isnt as bad as yours just annoying. rewatch your video or the steering column moving in the engine bay i can see the play, your rack is fine.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay well atleast you cleared up most the clunking i thought you said that there was still allot of play and clunking just not from that tie rod. i need to replace my coupler lol
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hello , i hope you see my comment today because tomorrow i will try to tight it. This 17mm is counter nut or simply just put the socket and tight it.? Thanks
Good info. I knew that was an adjustment, just never knew what it looked like. I had a good bit of slop in my steering and I adjusted that but, took most of it out. I plan on trying some more adjustment at some other point but on an xdrive it's not so easy to get to
In the Honda world its called a rack guide screw, i imagine most steering racks have this and there is a tightening sequence where you tighten, loosen and tighten again to a certain spec. It can be done by feel alone which i imagine is exactly what you would do in the case of a worn rack as it will be out of spec, does the steering feel any better/more direct than before now?
Anyone who is experiencing this make sure you're checking to see if this sound is still there with the engine running. ZF states that noise is normal when engine is not running but it should not make any noise when running.
My cars steering wheel sounds significantly worse than this and far more loose but if this works you might have saved me hundreds, I have a dealership appointment today 😭😭😭
It's awesome to see someone figuring things out themselves instead of rushing to a mechanic. My E92 M3 has 152,000 miles on it and it's still running great. The only thing I swapped out was the power steering reservoir with one from Euro Power Motorsports, and it's been smooth since then.
You have great hand skills & great thinking way , i have benz , i faced this problem , sadly inexperienced repairer harm the steering shaft ,But ( heroically) I bought another used perfect one and changed and adjusted it myself, if i see this video before i would never permit handling the shaft , now i know that the sound is from the bush and i will better leave it as it doesn’t annoy me after understanding the issue, great video with all my respect .
@@matthulley72 I don't think they are. But I figured out what was causing the clicking on my car when turning the wheel left to right. It was the two bolts that hold the steering rack in place to the subframe. They are supposed to be used only one time. I took mine off and back on twice, so they were stretched. Replaced with new ones and clicking noise is gone.
Those bigger clicks you get going from lock to lock are actually your rack BOLTS themselves, the two that sit in the middle mounting it to the chassis. They are torque to yield bolts and BMW says replace them everytime you take off the steering rack.
@@ZeroTo60Tube it’s not about tightness, i tried tightening my last pair of bolts & they just loosen very quickly(only perceivable because clunk comes back after a couple km). The bolts are torque to yield so they will never hold true torque after 1 or 2 torques when u remove them for whatever reason. With a new pair of those bolts my lock to lock clunk is completely gone.
@@gster109 I appreciate you are trying to help but i dont know what else to tell you. The rack is not moving in the subframe. That is a very common issue and the first thing i checked quite a few months ago now. But again it's not moving in the subframe.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i think it’s worth a new pair of those bolts so you can truly check it off your list, that fixed my issue & the way you describe it is identical. I dont think you’d be able to see the slight “shift” of the rack. Maybe try putting your hand on the rack while going lock to lock to see if it’s causing a vibration around the mounting point. Then i’d maybe check your strut tops, there’s a felt piece that goes in there to prevent metal on metal contact. I’d make sure everything is there. Best of luck.
Having the same problem on my e9x 335i. It was really bad so I replaced the rack with another used one and its much better now, but I still get a loud clunk sometimes in parking lots doing sharp turns.
Thats more like what i had, you feel it through the pedals. Check the adjust on the yoke. Hopefully its the same thing. Try not to adjust it too far mind you.
Seems similar to an old Porsche 924 steering rack. They had a thrust bolt that kept a certain tension on the rack. Too tight - stiff steering. Too loose- rattling like mad.
This was actually really cool I had to do adjust one on a subi as per a TSB and I had no idea what I was doing or what for but it fixed the clunking issue so I already knew there's supposed to be a tightening sequence but didn't know what it was for lol thanks.
It is normal, but it is a problem. It is a much more common issue on the f series as well. If you do some googling there are repair kits for the f seires.
It works, I tightened my just a little as well, and the clunk is almost gone. I may need to do it a little more. Does anyone know the actual Nm spec for it?
I dont think there will be an official spec for a worn part, which is what we are working with on these things. So its a matter of just doing it in very little steps. If you go too much is will bind and making the steering stiff.
Had something similar on my e46. Was the extension piece at bottom of Drive shaft had developed play in the U joint. Had it replaced with a tight one and bingo, noise and crappy steering feel gone.
I've also adjusted the nut on the steering rack but the clicking isn't completely gone. I think it's coming from the U-joint couplings on the steering shaft.
Salut , nu cred ca e dea "U joint" , am schimbat eu cardanu ala mic de aluminum, si na disparut sunetul, cred sa fie de la cuplajul din cabina, ala unde se face legatura pt reglajul volanului 🤔
Have similar click/thud sound on my E92 335i, took to a place to get it checked out and was told rack was bad. I am feeling floating and light steering on the highway, would this help?
100% worth trying to tighten this nut. Do also make sure the 2 torx bolts that hold the rack are tight too. If you get the right sized ring spanner you can access the nut without removing anything. On a RHD anyway. I would recommend turning it like 1/8th of a turn and test drive. if you go too much it will bind.
No i didnt. It actually came loose again about a month ago. So i went tighter this time and it feels a little stiff. But not terrible. If you have time, just make an adjustment and take it for a spin.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply one more question please , what size socket did you use to make the adjustments ? I've read a need a special 8 sided socket but yours looks like a standard type socket
@@matthulley72 I am sorry i cant remember what size but it was just a normal spanner. Using the ring end it fits in while the subframe frame is in place
I went to bed just after playing with my "thrust bush" and woke up to you playing with yours 😉. All jokes aside, I have a little noise with mine as well, will check it this weekend. Good vid man, thank you. Also hoping that your mother is doing well.
Thanks man, she is a lot better than she was back April, can walk and talk almost normal now. Today was the day she has been here in ages. Oh and if you make any adjustment to the yoke, do it in very small increments. Try and get a 17mm spanner with a deep ring. Our SP tools ones just sit in there and turn it with the rack in place.
The big nut you took off is actually used to set clearance between bearing and rack, used to build steering racks for Aussie Oem (Delphi Automotive Systems). The little plug in the nut is where the micrometer would measure while putting 10n on the pinion with rack locked in place, usually about 75micron. It is used to set turning torque which is on center feel without the Pinion valve being activated, so no hydraulic assistance. Think of small adjustments while freeway driving. There is a spec to adjust to hence why the nut is loctited into place.
Exact same problem in the BMW E60. Very common.
ZF 7852
On these steering rack models, unlike the E46, the column shaft coupler has no rubber flex disk which is supposed to absorb all the suspension stress going to the steering column. Instead, the stress is absorbed by that teflon yoke which wears out prematurely.
ZF instructs to replace the whole yoke assembly and applying a special loctite grease to the yoke (Part 1 and 2). Then torque the nut to 12nm, peel and reloosen it by 5 graduation marks as follows:
Turn the adjusting screw (34) 5 graduation marks back (loosen it) and then screw it 1 graduation mark in again.
Rotate the steering gear to mid position, so that the rackprojection (relative to the steering
lockstop) is equal at either side.
Fit tools [23] to restrict the rack stroke to 1...3 mm.
Fit tool [20] and a commercially available dial gauge.
Using tool [9], rotate the rotary valve (81) to the left and to the right (torque approx. 12 Nm)
and measure the yoke play.
Specified value: 0.1 mm maximum
Adjust the yoke play by turning at the adjusting screw (34).
If the adjusting screw (34) is turned 1 graduation mark, this corresponds to a change in yoke
play of 0.05 mm.
Without altering the yoke play setting, check the loosening torque at the adjusting screw (34).
Test value: 1.5 Nm minimum
Insert the plug (34.3).
Check:
There must not be any sticking of the steering gear when rotated through its total stroke.
Mark the definitive position of the adjusting screw (34) with marking ink (at any place on the
circumference).
Hi , Where is this repair kit available? Are ebay ones OK? Where are the specialist tools available?
@@gulag8735 did you ever find the repair kit or new yoke
@@matthulley72 no. Never did
Wish I found this before replacing my whole front end (Upper and lower control arms, shocks and springs, drop links, anti-roll bushes and even the steering column) chasing that knock. Ironically, a used replacement rack I put in had the same knock so was dumbfounded until I found the pre-load yoke. Keep up making brilliant content, could be saving someone thousands!
Did you tighten it or loosen it off?
I’ve done the exact same thing, replace all control arms, sway bar links, and struts, inner and outer tie Rod ends and I still have clunking noise. A mechanic told me it’s the steering column. Please help!
You are making it worse. Excessive power steeringly doings like that may result in even more severe financial problems and high blood pressure.
Another steering rack related fix that can cause a noise (not for your problem specifically - but just noting it for others to try) - sometimes the bolts that hold the rack to the subframe get loose and you can snug em up. Mine I had to get a wrench on the back side of the nut to tighten down because it would spin when you tighten it the normal way.
Also the strut hats / bearings seem to collapse over time and might bind up when turning.
is the procedure the same for vehicles with active steering? Vehicle is an E82 with N55 engine built 10.2010... BTW Great Content, Greets from Bavaria :)
I anoit you Doctor E9x, specialist in N54 :)
Keep up the good work literally been trying to find this problem forever
Well i have been looking in to it for months too. Hopefully this gets your quieter too.
I had the same problem and found out the steering rack was making contact with the heat shield! Plus for extra precaution changed power steering fluid!
I’ve been putting this off on mine for a while.
Started after I replaced my steering rack with a used M3 one, including a used lower steering shaft assembly (tbh, the shaft, for no reason). But I also dropped the subframe to do oil pan gasket too. So multi can’t isolate to a single changed part unfortunately.
I’m going to put my old lower steering shaft back first with two new aluminum bolts and see if it fixes anything. I don’t know the history of the used m3 rack maybe it’s coming from that….
Will also double check all suspension components. Ideally I wanna shimmy the wheel with car on ground. But of course that’s difficult without a lift.
This is a very common issue on the F20’s. I did the repair on my M135i and it’s amazing, feels like a new car. 6 months or so it did need a ‘nip’ up - realistically only a mm or two of movement and it’s back to where it was 👍
I only recently found a thread on the F series doing it and that is what got me on the path to checking mine on this car. In hindsight, a nip up probably would have been fine, but at least i got to pull it apart and see what they look like in there.
@@ZeroTo60Tube it might be worth checking on RealOEM if there has been a change in part design. The one I bought and replaced on mine was totally diffract and metal rather than plastic. I assume they were wearing and causing play.
Did you get the noise only when the engine was off? or also with engine running?
It was a lot more obvious with the engine off but was still there with the engine running.
@@neil4089 thanks. If I feel the noise only when is off is it normal ? BMW says that is all fine
Talk slower please.
How did you resolve this issue? Can we buy a thrust piece for this rack?
I tightened it. I show you in the video.
Do you know if the repair also works on the BMW E60?
I honestly dont, sorry.
@@ZeroTo60Tube So replace the steering rack?
Too much play in your bush will definitely leave you feeling loose
I have searched on this for weeks after replacing and checking everything in the front end of my e60 and not only is the same noise but you have a fix for it. Thank you!
Mate you can VISUALLY see the play in you steering coupler its a bushing that wears out especially after moving around the rack while connect to the steering column still, idk why you took that whole rack apart honestlly i didnt even know you can take that out lmao, but bro i have the same play and clunking and i got mines after fucking with my steering rack doing my tie rods then noticed the play after changing them, when you move around or fucking with the rack while its still connected to the steering column you are going to damage the steering coupler and thats what causes that play, its very delicate and its like $400. i promise if you replace that bro you will be fine, ima do mines soon but it isnt as bad as yours just annoying. rewatch your video or the steering column moving in the engine bay i can see the play, your rack is fine.
But the yoke adjustment fixed the problem i was having. Im not saying there isn't play in the coupler, but the clunking was that yoke adjustment.
@@ZeroTo60Tube oh okay well atleast you cleared up most the clunking i thought you said that there was still allot of play and clunking just not from that tie rod. i need to replace my coupler lol
@@ZeroTo60Tube Hello , i hope you see my comment today because tomorrow i will try to tight it. This 17mm is counter nut or simply just put the socket and tight it.? Thanks
Good info. I knew that was an adjustment, just never knew what it looked like. I had a good bit of slop in my steering and I adjusted that but, took most of it out. I plan on trying some more adjustment at some other point but on an xdrive it's not so easy to get to
In the Honda world its called a rack guide screw, i imagine most steering racks have this and there is a tightening sequence where you tighten, loosen and tighten again to a certain spec. It can be done by feel alone which i imagine is exactly what you would do in the case of a worn rack as it will be out of spec, does the steering feel any better/more direct than before now?
I havent driven the car properly yet, will find out shortly when i take it for a spin.
mine is doing the same exact thing also when going over bumps or uneven pavements i can feel the samething, so its not the steering coupling?
Anyone who is experiencing this make sure you're checking to see if this sound is still there with the engine running. ZF states that noise is normal when engine is not running but it should not make any noise when running.
U finde replacment for that bush, I can't finde it and I have on my Range Rover same sistem like cap, piston etc.?
RHD HELL. steering shaft intersects the water pump AND the outlets. -so bad, Your love for these cars is stronger than mine.
My cars steering wheel sounds significantly worse than this and far more loose but if this works you might have saved me hundreds, I have a dealership appointment today 😭😭😭
I have the same noise on a ford mondeo mk4, can this cause a steering wheel wobble after 90km/h?
First
Glad to hear your mom is doing much better and even getting mixed in with BMW herd.
Thanks so much dude, this was the first day she has spent at our place since ICU.
It's awesome to see someone figuring things out themselves instead of rushing to a mechanic. My E92 M3 has 152,000 miles on it and it's still running great. The only thing I swapped out was the power steering reservoir with one from Euro Power Motorsports, and it's been smooth since then.
You have great hand skills & great thinking way , i have benz , i faced this problem , sadly inexperienced repairer harm the steering shaft ,But ( heroically) I bought another used perfect one and changed and adjusted it myself, if i see this video before i would never permit handling the shaft , now i know that the sound is from the bush and i will better leave it as it doesn’t annoy me after understanding the issue, great video with all my respect .
does the f30 thrust rack pushing go into the e90??? Since there's none for the e90'might as well ask its younger brother to help.
wondering the same
@@maddog5814 did you ever find d outfit they are compatible
@@matthulley72 I don't think they are. But I figured out what was causing the clicking on my car when turning the wheel left to right. It was the two bolts that hold the steering rack in place to the subframe. They are supposed to be used only one time. I took mine off and back on twice, so they were stretched. Replaced with new ones and clicking noise is gone.
Is it that bushing same for e90 pre lci, it's hydraulic ?
Those bigger clicks you get going from lock to lock are actually your rack BOLTS themselves, the two that sit in the middle mounting it to the chassis. They are torque to yield bolts and BMW says replace them everytime you take off the steering rack.
Its 100% not the rack bolts. They are tight as hell.
@@ZeroTo60Tube it’s not about tightness, i tried tightening my last pair of bolts & they just loosen very quickly(only perceivable because clunk comes back after a couple km). The bolts are torque to yield so they will never hold true torque after 1 or 2 torques when u remove them for whatever reason. With a new pair of those bolts my lock to lock clunk is completely gone.
@@gster109 I appreciate you are trying to help but i dont know what else to tell you. The rack is not moving in the subframe. That is a very common issue and the first thing i checked quite a few months ago now. But again it's not moving in the subframe.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i think it’s worth a new pair of those bolts so you can truly check it off your list, that fixed my issue & the way you describe it is identical. I dont think you’d be able to see the slight “shift” of the rack. Maybe try putting your hand on the rack while going lock to lock to see if it’s causing a vibration around the mounting point. Then i’d maybe check your strut tops, there’s a felt piece that goes in there to prevent metal on metal contact. I’d make sure everything is there. Best of luck.
@@gster109 can you use other high tensile bolts or it has to be the oem Yield to torque bolts?
Please advise where can I purchase this part for BMW Active Tourer 216D
I have a e90 325i with the same problem but I cannot find the part on eBay or Amazon. Do you have a link?
I couldn’t find them either. Are you able to tighten yours like I did?
I have the same rattle on my z4 but it sounds like its in my dashboard, any suggestions?
The dash can have a lot of rattles. My suggestion is try and get the rattle happing with someone esle in the car to pin point it better
Did u any steering problems at higher speeds
Having the same problem on my e9x 335i. It was really bad so I replaced the rack with another used one and its much better now, but I still get a loud clunk sometimes in parking lots doing sharp turns.
Thats more like what i had, you feel it through the pedals. Check the adjust on the yoke. Hopefully its the same thing. Try not to adjust it too far mind you.
Seems similar to an old Porsche 924 steering rack. They had a thrust bolt that kept a certain tension on the rack. Too tight - stiff steering. Too loose- rattling like mad.
When are you taking oreallys engine out? Keen to see that hole in the block !
This was actually really cool I had to do adjust one on a subi as per a TSB and I had no idea what I was doing or what for but it fixed the clunking issue so I already knew there's supposed to be a tightening sequence but didn't know what it was for lol thanks.
Same solution for e60?
do we have a part number ?
no sorry
So similar to the noise i encountered in an F10 once.....i wonder if its the same issue on F30s?
I have got the same noise on my F20 2016, but only when the engine is off, is it normal?
It is normal, but it is a problem. It is a much more common issue on the f series as well. If you do some googling there are repair kits for the f seires.
hello or noticed that at minute 2:00 the instrument panel checks the audi-style hands how did you code this thing? thanks 🙏
Its a feature of the JB4.
the noise is also made when lifting the car and turning the steering wheel please?
no
It works, I tightened my just a little as well, and the clunk is almost gone. I may need to do it a little more. Does anyone know the actual Nm spec for it?
I dont think there will be an official spec for a worn part, which is what we are working with on these things. So its a matter of just doing it in very little steps. If you go too much is will bind and making the steering stiff.
Lol love you mother ❤😂
Needed to replace the piston th-cam.com/video/DhN8j1lZ89Q/w-d-xo.html
Had something similar on my e46. Was the extension piece at bottom of Drive shaft had developed play in the U joint.
Had it replaced with a tight one and bingo, noise and crappy steering feel gone.
Hello, i have same problem on my e46 330d. Please can u give me part number of that part? Thanks :)
Hi I got exactly the same noise is that still driveable or dangerous
It’s not safe. Just in case it was to fail completely.
Any idea what would cause a thumping sound when going from reverse/drive (not the transmission).
Rear torque coupling due to torque direction sudden change.
Inspect tightness of your rear differential and driveshaft flex disk.
Can this lead to loose steering, kinda like a floaty feeling when driving
yes, thats how i noticed it.
I've also adjusted the nut on the steering rack but the clicking isn't completely gone. I think it's coming from the U-joint couplings on the steering shaft.
Salut , nu cred ca e dea "U joint" , am schimbat eu cardanu ala mic de aluminum, si na disparut sunetul, cred sa fie de la cuplajul din cabina, ala unde se face legatura pt reglajul volanului 🤔
Glad your video popped up, have the same problem.
Have similar click/thud sound on my E92 335i, took to a place to get it checked out and was told rack was bad. I am feeling floating and light steering on the highway, would this help?
100% worth trying to tighten this nut. Do also make sure the 2 torx bolts that hold the rack are tight too. If you get the right sized ring spanner you can access the nut without removing anything. On a RHD anyway. I would recommend turning it like 1/8th of a turn and test drive. if you go too much it will bind.
Hey man did you evr get this figured out, im currectly having the same floaty feeling while driving
@@octaviofigueroa6444 Did you do what i have done in the video?
what size socket fits the nut? and whats the right grease for the steering rack?
In E60, it s BMW FB-1 grease and a 6 pan socket of 16.5 mm.
Yes not 16 not 17mm but 16.5 mm 😢
Good luck at rollracing guys🍀👍
Nothing solved in this video ! Briliant !
Good troubleshooting Andrew 👍🏻
Heard the knock
How the hell did you get your needles to sweep?!??
Its a JB4 feature.
Wating for a fix to seat belt arm that not griping the belt 😉
I have recently seen a 3d printed piece, but to be honest i didnt like the look. I may just disable the arms i think
Hi
Did you ever find out the OEM spec for the pre load please and sequence of tightening it down
No i didnt. It actually came loose again about a month ago. So i went tighter this time and it feels a little stiff. But not terrible. If you have time, just make an adjustment and take it for a spin.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply one more question please , what size socket did you use to make the adjustments ? I've read a need a special 8 sided socket but yours looks like a standard type socket
@@matthulley72 I am sorry i cant remember what size but it was just a normal spanner. Using the ring end it fits in while the subframe frame is in place
‘Off topic question’. How did you get your dials on your cluster to do a revolution when you started the car?
Cheers
That's a JB4 feature I think
Daniel is correct. JB4 feature.
Cheers guys
how do you get the needle sweep when starting the car?
Its a JB4 feature.
What steering wheel is that?
Its a e92 M sport, with LCI paddles, a x1 trim piece and ali express leather cover..... bit of a hack job.
I really like it, these subtle changes -especially the trim make it look unique.
Name of this part ?
I don’t think it has a specific name. It’s just part of the rack.
Steering rack repair kit (check on ebay)
Eps🪦👀
Bush
I went to bed just after playing with my "thrust bush" and woke up to you playing with yours 😉.
All jokes aside, I have a little noise with mine as well, will check it this weekend. Good vid man, thank you.
Also hoping that your mother is doing well.
Thanks man, she is a lot better than she was back April, can walk and talk almost normal now. Today was the day she has been here in ages. Oh and if you make any adjustment to the yoke, do it in very small increments. Try and get a 17mm spanner with a deep ring. Our SP tools ones just sit in there and turn it with the rack in place.
@@ZeroTo60Tube good to hear man, small steps and all hey. I'll take your advice on the rack, there is definitely no way I was keen on taking it out.